Travel Thru History

Historical and cultural travel experiences

  • Home
  • Airfare Deals
  • Hotel Discounts
  • VISAS
  • Recommended Reading
  • Writers Guidelines

A Romantic Tale of the Musketeers

Maastricht, the Netherlands

Maastricht, The Netherlands

by Keith Kellett

I was sitting in a café in Maastricht, and was rather intrigued by the name. Grand Café D’Artagnan. Of course, I was familiar with the name; the hero of Alexandre Dumas’ trilogy of novels, Twenty Years After, The Viscount of Bragelonne and, of course, The Three Musketeers. Even if you haven’t read the books, the name has been familiar to movie-goers ever since Douglas Fairbanks buckled his swash across the silver screen in 1921.

But, what was the connection with Maastricht?

Further enquiries revealed that he’d been killed here, during the Siege of Maastricht in 1673, during the Franco-Dutch War, and his statue still stands in Maastricht.

street in MaastrichtIt appeared that he was a real person, one Charles de Batz, who joined the Musketeers in 1632, using his mother’s maiden name, D’Artagnan. There, the resemblance ends, for Dumas fictionalised and romanticised his character heavily.

The city lies on a narrow appendix of the Netherlands, squeezing between Belgium and Germany. Indeed, when the railway first came to Maastricht, the first station down the line to the east was Aachen, in Germany; to the west, Liège, in Belgium. Nearly thirty years were to pass before it had a rail connection with any other city in the Netherlands.

river cruise boats in MaastrichtThe reason for this is its important strategic position on the River Maas, where the Romans, in their progress across Europe, built a bridge, around which grew a town which they called Mosae Trajectum, or ‘Maas Crossing’, from which the name Maastricht is derived.

The Netherlands, as we know it now, did not exist until 1815; before that, Maastricht changed hands many times. In the Middle Ages, it came under the joint rule of the Duke of Brabant and the Prince-Bishop of Liège, until it was conquered by the Spanish in 1579 during what was to become known as the Eighty Years War.

In 1632, the city returned to Dutch hands, as part of the ‘Republic of the United Netherlands, but only held for less than forty years, before the French took it in the Franco-Dutch wars in 1673. Their troops occupied it until 1678, when it was returned to the Dutch.

Maastricht shop frontsBut, the French came again; briefly during the War of Austrian Succession in 1748, and, for a longer time, by the forces of Napoleon in 1794, who regarded it as a part of France until its restoration to the Netherlands in 1815.

That wasn’t the end of it, though. The ‘United Kingdom of the Netherlands’, as it was called also included provinces which are now Belgium. In 1830, these provinces revolted, and seceded from the United Kingdom of the Netherlands to form their own country, Belgium. Some European countries informally recognised the new country straight away, but it was not until the London Treaty of 1839 that Belgium became ‘official’. But, Willem I, the King of the Netherlands, mindful of Maastricht’s important strategic position, gave orders that the narrow strip of land was to be held for the Netherlands at all costs, regardless of the wishes of its citizens.

statue of Jan-Pieter MinckeleersPerhaps it was this central position which led to its being chosen as the meeting place for Europe’s leaders in 1992. They discussed the mechanism by which the European Community became the European Union, and laid the groundwork for Europe’s common currency. At the end of their conference, they signed the Treaty of European Union, better known as the Maastricht Treaty.

Some well-known people made Maastricht their home. One noted citizen was Jan-Pieter Minckeleers, the inventor of the gaslight. His statue stands in the Markt, holding a wand from which issues a gas-fuelled flame.

But, a more famous citizen is the charismatic violinist and orchestra leader André Rieu. Although he tours the world with his Johann Strauss Orchestra, he gives an open-air concert in his home town every year. And the world comes to Maastricht to see and hear him.

He is, the people of Maastricht say, the best thing ever to happen to their city. His fame has spread far further than that of Minckeleers, of whom few people have ever heard. Or, even D’Artagnan!

 

If You Go:

www.holland.com/uk/tourism/Cities-in-Holland/Visit-Maastricht.htm
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maastricht
www.online-literature.com/dumas

 

About the author:
Having written as a hobby for many years while serving in the Royal Air Force, Keith Kellett saw no reason to discontinue his hobby when he retired. With time on his hands, he produced more work, and found, to his surprise, it ‘grew and grew’ and was good enough to finance his other hobbies; travelling, photography and computers. He is trying hard to prevent it from becoming a full-time job! He has published in many UK and overseas print magazines, and on the Web. He is presently trying to get his head around blogging, podcasting and video.

All photographs are by Keith Kellett.

Tagged With: Maastricht attractions, Netherlands travel Filed Under: Europe Travel

Very Dutch Groningen, the Netherlands

Groningen waterfront houses

Historic Haunts in Holland

by Giuseppe Raudino

It’s Sunday morning and Groningen is still sleeping. The Martini tower stands out in front of an empty square. The spire, with its 318 feet, is the highest point of the most northern city of the Netherlands.

rows of bicycles on a Groningen streetA huge number of bikes are locked everywhere, the streets are quite deserted and the shops closed. Only a few hours ago the atmosphere was completely different: pubs and discos were crowded with people, streets were full of boys and girls walking across the town or getting something to eat at one of the ambulant food sellers. The fact is that Groningen’s nightlife is remarkably affected by the great number of university students (40,000), which represent one fourth of the total population.

Tulips, wind mills, bicycles and wooden clogs are the many objects that remind us the image of Holland. And the list could be longer or even endless, because this little country in the North of Europe is strongly characterized by a singular culture that leads its inhabitants to uncommon opinions and attitudes which never stops to surprise the world. In Groningen, as in the rest of the Netherlands, prostitutes are allowed to work in appropriate places (Red Light Districts) and to wait for their clients in a sort of showcases, where they are displayed wearing sexy lingerie only. Dutch pedestrians are used to it, but tourists still have some difficulties believing their eyes. ‘Soft drugs’ such as marijuana or hashish are tolerated and sold in relevant shops, where it is possible to smoke a joint without infringing any law. Euthanasia is legal. And for homosexual couples, not only is marriage possible, but they may also adopt children. Despite this freedom, however, there is a minor occurrence of deviant behavior and the Dutch society is pretty balanced.

Martinitoren in GroningenVisiting Groningen is probably the best way to be acquainted with its culture, because the other famous cities like Amsterdam or Rotterdam are too big and show many multicultural aspects which might mislead the tourists. On the contrary, Groningen offers an authentic Dutch environment, with several genuine places that are waiting to be discovered.

Groningen is easily reachable by train. It’s only two hours far from Schiphol, the international airport of Amsterdam, and linked by plenty of direct trains. Taxis and buses are efficient, but the old town (the hotel you booked is probably there) is just five minutes by foot from the station. The first impression when you arrive in Groningen is order and stillness. It’s hard to see a piece of paper on the pavement: everything is clean, neat, tidy.

In front of the train station there is the Groninger Museum, a modern structure designed by the Italian architect Alessandro Mendini. Dutch people are crazy for innovative design and modern arts. When it comes to restoring an old building, they are not feared by the idea of mixing traditional and modern stuff. For this reason, Dutch architectural solutions are often controversial or even shocking but, without a doubt, courageous. The Mendini museum was built in 1994 and since then it has hosted many interesting exhibitions. Moreover, there is a café and an Italian restaurant which entertains its customers with soft live music and classical piano pieces every Friday and Saturday evening.

Before you arrive to the main door of the museum, you pass a little bridge that crosses a channel called Diepenring. That channel surrounds the historic center of Groningen: once you have stepped inside the area enclosed by the Diepenring you are in the heart of the old town.

Groningen GoudkantoorAlthough the city was severely damaged by repeated bombardments during the Second World War, some treasures have survived. Besides the Martini tower, which was completed ten years before Columbus discovered America, the Goudkantoor (literally: Gold Office) is an impressive monument that is worth a visit. Built in 1635, during the so-called Golden Dutch Age, a period of floridness when the Netherlands were one of the most powerful nations in the globe, the Goudkantoor served as a tax office. It is so beautiful that it was saved by the military forces in 1945, after a heavy battle between Canadian and German troops took place for the liberation of the city and left a lot of other buildings destroyed or burned out.

Close to the Goudkantoor, there is a visible sign of the Dutch inclination towards architectural assortment, that seeks a surprising balance between ancient and modern. It must be said that there are also cases of emulation. For instance, the Cathedral of St. Joseph is a perfect example of Neogothic. The church was built in 1885, but it strongly resembles a Dominican church in Zutphen, a city 100 miles far from Groningen, built in 1306.

De Drie GezustersIf you decide to go for a walk after dinner you will notice how alive and moving the night life is in Groningen. There are no exceptions: from Monday to Sunday the young inhabitants of this city seem to amuse themselves, having the time of their life any single moment they put the nose out of the door. Step into De Drie Gezusters (The Three Sisters), the biggest pub of Europe. It is located at the Grote Markt, the main square of Groningen, near the Martini tower and the city hall. De Drie Gezusters and is composed of four connected buildings with five entries. Inside you’ll find some twenty bars where the best Dutch beers are poured, and several dance floors, each one with its own type of music, which range from folk-traditional to techno, from pop music to Latin American. The total capacity of the pub is 3750 people. By the way, De Drie Gezusters is not only a pub: during the morning and the afternoon it’s a restaurant and a fine place where to drink a coffee while listening to music.

University of Gronigen Law CenterIf you really like live music, however, the right place for you is definitively Vera, an alternative space with a challenging stage, where many international artists have played before they became famous and acclaimed all over the world, such as U2, Simple Minds, Nirvana and Pearl Jam, just to give some examples. Another good place for music lovers is De Spieghel (The Mirror), a jazz café that offers a cozy environment and high quality live music.

Eating in the Netherlands is fun. Despite the national dishes that are based on potatoes, meat, vegetables and similar ingredients, thanks to the Dutch multicultural society, Groningen is full of exotic restaurants. Everywhere it is possible to taste a wide range of foreign kitchens, from Arabian to Indonesian, from Italian to Mexican, from Japanese to African. All Dutch beers are excellent, but if you want to taste a traditional Dutch liquor, try Jenever, which is also known as “Holland gin.”

After having enjoyed drinking and food, feel free to have a walk in the Noorder Plantsoen, an amazing park with old trees and ponds, where the inhabitants of Groningen love to spend their time during the sunny days. If you wish to spend a day in the surroundings of the town, the sand islands in the north of Groningen are probably the best destination. The sea is nearby: just catch Bus 163 to Lauwersoog and from there go further by ferry-boat, which takes approximately 45 minutes. Once landed, it is possible to rent a bike and discover every part of the island.

If you liked the North Sea, its landscape and the huge beaches, perhaps you’d like to learn more about the naval tradition of this area. In a city like Groningen, with a great experience of navigation, it’s quite normal to find a museum like the Northern Maritime Museum where you to find out more information about ancient ships and maritime life.


Low Cost Private Transfer From Eelde Airport to Groningen City – One Way

If You Go:

Schiphol International Airport
Dutch railway – information about departure times and ticket prices
Passenger ferry to Schiermonnikoog island
Groningen Tourist information
Groninger Museum – Official website of Mendini
Northern Maritime Museum Groningen
Vera
De Drie Gezusters
Goudkantoor: Waagplein 1 – tel. (+31) (050) 5891888
Groninger Museumcafé & Italiaans Restaurant: Museumeiland 1 – tel. (+31) (050) 3666544
Vera: Oosterstraat 44 – tel: (+31) (050) 313 46 81
De Spieghel: Peperstraat 11 – tel. (+31) (050) 5280588
Northern Maritime Museum: Brugstraat 24/26 – tel. (+31) (050) 3122202

About the author:
Giuseppe Raudino, is a former acting professor “Theory and Method of Mass Media,” and a freelance writer based in the Netherlands. He holds a master degree in Communication Sciences from the University of Siena (Italy). Besides traveling, he loves music and sports: he practices karate and plays the trumpet.

Photo credits:
First Gronigen, Netherlands image by Zachtleven fotografie from Pixabay
All other photos are by Giuseppe Raudino.

Tagged With: Groningen attractions, Netherlands travel Filed Under: Europe Travel

Cycling the Dutch Capital

bicycles in Amsterdam
Amsterdam, The Netherlands

by Andy Hayes

Many people’s vision of Amsterdam involves the salubrious red light district or smoky marijuana bars. However, the Dutch capital has far more much to offer than simply a den of iniquity. From edgy contemporary art to classic architecture to modern engineering marvels, the city has something for everyone. The best way to see this wide array of sights is by bike, the primary mode of transport in Holland and without argument the most efficient.

THE CITY CENTRE

Vondelpark, AmsterdamSome parts of Amsterdam’s medieval city centre are pedestrian only – and as things are distinctly crowded in this part of town, cycle with caution: tourists are not always aware where the bike paths are, and trams can appear out of nowhere and have the right of way. The best area to get comfortable with your bike is to head to Vondelpark, the green lungs of Amsterdam and the city’s largest park. You’ll see tourists and locals cycling, roller-skating, jogging, or simply walking about the various reflecting ponds and tree-lined paths. Currently a significant amount of restoration work is ongoing, but don’t let that get in your way – riding around the edge of the park would take you approximately two miles (3.3km) so there is plenty of space to maneuver. A good stopping point, if you’ve not packed your lunch, is the Blauwe Theehuis, a two-story café hidden in a leafy section of the park that is a social hotspot with the locals. Otherwise, find a quiet bench and enjoy the people-watching. If you want to visit a museum while you’re here, the Film Museum (which also has a good café) is on the park grounds.

Ij River, AmsterdamAnother interesting ride in the city centre is along the Ij river, which forms the northern border of the city. Centraal Station is along the Ij; from here go east where you’ll find some of Amsterdam’s newest construction, including the Muziekgebouw, a glittering glass high-rise that is home to a new concert hall. Next to the concert hall is the Bimhuis, a smaller theatre where Amsterdam’s edgiest jazz plays several nights a week. The outdoor café terrace next to the water is said to be one of the sunniest in the city. Alternatively, head west from Centraal Station will bring you to the Amsterdam Plage, a quirky city beach complete with Caribbean cocktail bar and a sand pit with bean bag chairs.

Near dusk, head to the Jordaan, Amsterdam’s bohemian neighborhood and home to those picture postcard perfect canal bridges. The area is full of hip and trendy cafes, beer bistros, and quiet terraces to enjoy a tea or coffee. The reason to head here at dusk is that this is the premium time to see the canal houses, as residents switch on their interior lights and the bridges start to reveal their sparkling reflections in the waters below. Be sure to know how to switch on the lights on your bicycle – it is law that they are required after dark, and you can be fined without them (never mind the safety risk).

THE WEST

sculpture in Westerpark, AmsterdamThe west of Amsterdam is mostly residential and industrial space. However, just on the edge of the centre is another fantastic park, second only to Vondelpark: the Westerpark. It has one of the best bakeries in town, the Bakkerswinkel – sister to the one of the same name in the red light district – and the grounds are an art lovers dream: modern sculptures are peppered throughout the park, including such unusual concepts as a wedding dress floating in a pond. An interesting sight to see is just beyond the park to the west – one will find a church and small community that is the old village of Sloterdijk. However, if you just look further to the northwest across the grassy plain, you’ll see a large train station and a cluster of skyscrapers – this is the modern day version of Sloterdijk. It is quite the juxtaposition of old and new Amsterdam.

THE NORTH

laundry drying in MonnickendamThe Ij river forms a barrier on the north edge of Amsterdam, but this is easily crossed via the one of the free ferries that run quite regularly from Centraal Station. Board any ferry, hop off on the other side, and head north. The best part about the cycle paths in this part of the area is that once you get closer to the sea, the cycle path strides the top of the dykes – giving you the best view of anyone. A great village to visit for the day is the old world hamlet of Monnickendam. Here you’ll find old fashion Dutch living, complete with locals in old styled clothing and architecture.

THE EAST

To the east of Amsterdam lies the beach: the shores of the Ijmeer. As a reminder that the Netherlands is a country below ground, here one can see where the sea has been filled to provide land for housing and new cities. Along the shore, though, are a number of clean and cheerful, purpose-built beaches. Two new villages to explore in this area include Steigeriland and Haveneiland-West. Both of these areas are technically “islands” as the land is only connected to the mainland by bridge.

THE SOUTH

dogs in water in the IjmeerSouth of Amsterdam are the city’s most populous suburbs, including the area around the World Trade Centre and the city of Amstelveen. However, just west of the WTC is a fantastic area called Amsterdamse Bos (‘Amsterdam Forest’). Considered to be the city’s back yard, the area is one of the largest parks in Europe, with more than 85mi (137km) of footpaths, 35mi (51km) of cycle paths and 50 bridges. The highlight of the area is the goat form (‘Geitenboerderij’) which includes an animal petting too as well as a café serving up products made on-site, such as cheese, ice cream, and yogurt. The bike paths here are wide, flat, and even on a crowded day the park feels extremely peaceful.

 

If You Go:

2-hour Amsterdam City Center Bike Tour
Dutch Countryside by Bike from Amsterdam

 

Don’t worry about getting lost in Amsterdam – cycle paths always have signage pointing you back to Amsterdam City Centre or Centraal Station. Just relax, pedal, and see where your wheels take you.

Further reading and resources to help you plan your journey in Amsterdam:
Dutch Amsterdam Visitors Guide
Real Life in the Netherlands

About the author:
Andy Hayes is a freelance travel writer and photographer based in Edinburgh, Scotland. When not out having travel adventures (or dreaming of new ones), he is hitting the walking trails near home. To get in touch or see Andy’s other travelogues, visit his website andyhayes.com ‘Sharing Experiences’.

Photo credits:
Amsterdam bicycles by: © Jorge Royan / http://www.royan.com.ar
All other photos are copyright by Andrew Hayes.

Tagged With: Amsterdam attractions, Netherlands travel Filed Under: Europe Travel

Wall Poems in Leiden, Holland

poem on wall in Leden, the Netherlands

The Words of the Poet Are Written On Sleutelstaat Walls

by Giuseppe Raudino

As I walked in the historic center of Leiden, the Netherlands, I noticed some words written on a wall. It was neither a commercial advertisement nor a street sign. As I stepped closer I had a wonderful surprise: it was a poem.

wall poem in Leiden, the NetherlandsI knew the Dutch people decorating houses and buildings elaborate façades , but a poem written on a wall was completely new to me. As I realized later, that this custom had started in 1992 with a literature project named “Muurgedichten” (wallpoems). The project was a private initiative by the artistic foundation “Tegen-Beeld” which immediately met the approval of citizens and sponsors.

“The poems, which were written in many different languages, are meant to be for everybody” the initiators of this project explained, underlining the “hope that passers-by are stimulated by the poems as well as by the visual image of the letters against the background formed by the wall.” The idea of a city full of poems is amazing and reflects the most noble concept of poetry, which, beyond the author, belongs to the whole mankind.

street in LeidenIn this manner, Leiden is an international-oriented city, that welcomes its visitors with a cultural gesture that encompasses the great treasure inherited by differences among languages and people.

“The reader/viewer is confronted by various sorts of characters that refer to different cultures” the official website of wall poems reads. “The common thread throughout this project is that many of these poems reflect upon language, colour, or upon the life as a poet.”

Leiden City HallThe cultural background of Leiden dates back to the sixteenth century, when the city fought against Spanish rule as an ally of William I, Prince of Orange. Because its bravery demonstrated during a siege in 1573, the prince himself afterwards visited Leiden. To reward the heroic defense, Prince William let the inhabitants choose between exemption from certain imposts or the foundation of a university. The city chose the second option and became the first university center of the Netherlands. (City Hall – left)

Without any doubt, the academic presence positively affected the cultural life of Leiden and its reputation, and this heritage still lasts today. Edmondo De Amicis, a prominent Italian writer and reporter, wrote in 1880: “How this university answered to the hopes of Leiden, it is superfluous to say. Everybody knows how the States of Holland with their liberal offers drew learned men from every country; how philosophy, driven out of France, took refuge there; how Leiden was for a long time the securest citadel for all men who were struggling for the triumph of human reason; how it became at length the most famous school in Europe.”

flower vendor on Leiden streetThe actual university is in an ancient convent. One can not enter without a sentiment of profound respect the great hall of the Academic Senate, where are seen the portraits of all the professors who have succeeded each other from the foundation of the university up to the present day.”

De Amicis travelled across the Netherlands, describing the most important highlights of this country. He referred to Leiden as “the antique Athens of the north”, “the Saragossa of the Low Countries,” adding that it certainly is “the oldest and most illustrious of the daughters of Holland” and definitely “one of those cities which make you thoughtful upon first entering them.”

Hoogelandse Kerk, LeidenThe heart of Leiden is an artificial hill at the confluence of two rivers: the Old and the New Rhine. A stronghold on the top of the earthen mound enables a 360 degrees panorama view. Unfortunately, nothing is left from the ancient city walls, but this fortification called “De Burcht” built 800 hundreds year ago is surely worth a visit. From there, it is possible to admire with a privileged perspective the imposing Hoogelandse Kerk, a Gothic church that, after Leiden was detached from Utrecht diocese, served as cathedral until the Reformation.

Marekerk church steepleThe best way to explore this city is just a random walk. Especially on Saturday, the streets are crowded with people busy in their weekly shopping activities and street sellers, who are offering a wide range of local products, from flowers to cheese. The atmosphere is overall friendly and cozy; many musicians play some instruments and you can very easily be captured by this party environment. However, never forget to look above from time to time, otherwise you could miss some nice treasures such us the Marekerk, a church that summarizes the Dutch Classicism with its octagonal-shaped dome and its height of 55 meters. On the top is a golden spire with two big keys (right). The city’s nickname is “sleutelstaat” (city of keys) because of its coat of arms and its flag, that depict two crossing skeleton keys.

Relief of Leiden by van VeenBehind any corner of this city there is a spectacular, poetic image to be captured: the Old Rhine river flows smoothly, the water mirrors elegant buildings, like a in pastel-colored painting, while many people cross wooden bridges. Incidentally, every part of Leiden actually resembles a Rembrandt’s work or a Otto van Veen’s canvas, two prominent painters who were born in Leiden and were active in the early seventeenth century.

It’s amazing how nowadays the beauty of this city appears still the same after four centuries. To confirm this impression, compare the “Relief of Leiden” (painted in 1574 by Otto van Veen, displayed in the Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam) to any part of the city: the same colors, the same shape of the houses, the same sky and clouds, the same crowd of people can be recognized at the present days.

For More Information:

An English section of tourist information about Leiden is available on the Visit Leiden website.  Visit the website of wallpoems in order to find out your favorite authors and the relevant streets in which their work appears.

The National Museum of Antiquities of Leiden hosts an archaeological collection that originates from four different regions: the Netherlands, Egypt, the Near East and the world of classical antiquity. In total, more than 80,000 objects are displayed. Don’t miss the majestic statues of the Roman emperors, prehistoric golden jewellery, Egyptian mummy cases and Etruscan masterpieces in bronze. Rijksmuseum van Oudheden

The botanical garden of Leiden is one of the oldest in the world. The garden was set up by the end of seventeenth century, and collects a wide range of plants. It is worth a visit.

Leiden Tours Now Available:

Leiden Private Tour and Canal Cruise
Private Guided Tour of Center and Prehistoric Antiquities Museum with Art Historian in Leiden
Private tour to Rotterdam, Delft and Leiden from Amsterdam

 

About the author:
Giuseppe Raudino graduated in Communication Science from the University of Siena, Italy. He lives in the Netherlands, where he works as a freelance writer. Besides traveling and writing, he holds a black belt in karate and plays the trumpet. Web site: www.raudino.webs.com

Photo credits:
First Leiden wall poem photo by Vysotsky (Wikimedia) / CC BY-SA
All other photos are by Guiseppe Raudino.
“Relief of Leiden”by Otto van Veen / Public domain

Tagged With: Leden attractions, Netherlands travel Filed Under: Europe Travel

VISA Checker

Find Out If You Need A Visa

MORE TRAVEL STORIES:

Discovering a Treasure in St. Thomas

China: The Alleys of Old Beijing

Nazareth, Israel

Discovering St. Maarten In The Bahamas

Athens of the South: Nashville’s Parthenon, Pagan Goddess in the Bible Belt

In the Footsteps of St. Paul Through Mainland Greece

Texas: Keeping Austin Weird

Three Ways to Visit the Maya Ruins


Sign up for our newsletter subscribe buttonGet updates on new stories plus tips on travel sales & discounts!

DESTINATIONS

  • Africa Travel
  • Asia Travel
  • Australia travel
  • Caribbean Travel
  • Central America Travel
  • Europe Travel
  • Middle East Travel
  • North America Travel
  • Oceania Travel
  • South America Travel
  • Travel News
  • UK Travel
  • Uncategorized
  • World Travel
Manifesting
facebook

Copyright © 2020 Cedar Cottage Media | About Us | Contact | Privacy Policy | Terms & Conditions | Copyright Notice | Log in