by Mary Ann Olson 

The beauty of Vienna, Austria is heard in the music at concert halls, the opera, churches and festivals and seen in the architecture, fashion, museums, art exhibitions, state outdoor parks, and markets. The Viennese residents enjoy a relaxing, congenial good life.

Austria’s capital, Vienna moves at a slower more relaxed pace. Vienna embraces both the Imperial and Contemporary ideals. Vienna is the “City of Music” and “Paris of the East”. The music and beauty of the city are unlike any other city in Europe.

The Ringstrasse or “The Ring Road” is a 3-mile long loop with a grand walking boulevard. The major Ringstrasse, a pedestrian-friendly historic center, has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Cafes and restaurants line the cobblestone side streets. The culinary scene cannot be overlooked. Located in the Hotel Sacher and the adjoining Cafe, a visitor cannot miss the infamous Sacher-Torte. Cafes abound throughout the avenues with bakery, meal tortes and beverages filled with visitors and Viennese people socializing. Patrons linger and enjoy an outdoor experience of a favorite pastime of people watching. Demel is the ultimate Chocolate shop filled with chocolate lover’s dreams. The Ringstrasse, is the main avenue for prestigious hotels including the Imperial Hotel. The Imperial Palace, Natural History Museum, Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna State Opera and the Parliament are located on the Ring. In the town square is St. Stephen’s Cathedral, a Gothic structure built in the 12th century. The Hofburg Imperial Palace, the center of the Habsburg Empire and other attractions are nearby. A morning church service mesmerizes the congregation with the famous Vienna Boys Choir, voices perfectly blended as if listening to an angelic choir.

Emperor Franz Joseph I ruled the Austro-Hungarian monarchy for 68 years. The year, 2016 marks the 100th anniversary of the Emperor’s death. Franz Joseph was the longest-reigning emperor of Austria. Franz Joseph, one son of Maria Theresa’s sixteen children, married Empress Elizabeth, best known as “Sissy”. She was extremely beautiful with long flowing dark hair beyond her knees which took her attendants two hours each day to brush and style. She was exercising and dieting continuously to maintain her 20-inch waist and was recognized as a true beauty by the Austrian people. Franz Joseph was born at Schonbrunn Palace and died there in 1916 at the age of 86. The property today is preserved as a museum founded by the Austrian Republic. The Palace has been used for important events such as the meeting in 1961 between President John F. Kennedy and Soviet Premier Nikita Khrushchev.

The Schonbrunn Palace, a 1,441-room Baroque palace is one of the most important architectural, cultural and historical monuments in the country. The history of the palace and gardens spans a period of over 300 years of successive Habsburg monarchs. This palace was the former Imperial summer residence. In 1569, the Holy Emperor Maximilian ll purchased the land. It served as a hunting ground and fishing pond. The name Schonbrunn means ‘beautiful spring’ which dates to the artesian well which provided water for the court. From 1638-1643, a palace was added and in 1642, the first mention of Schonbrunn appeared. In its present form today, the place was remodeled in 1740-50’s during the reign of empress Maria Theresa who was given the estate as a wedding gift. Franz l redecorated the palace exterior in neoclassical style which exists today. Forty rooms are opened to the public with frescoes adorning every room, gold gilding on the ceiling and walls and the exquisite décor throughout the palace.

Within the Schonbrunn Palace is the Imperial Palace. Here 20 rooms of the Baroque Period Style are open to the public covering eight sides. The Imperial Palace houses the Emperor’s Crown, scepter, cross and garments worn over the ages. Religious artifacts and precious stones are seen throughout the exhibit rooms. Large and small works of art adorn the walls.

Located behind the Palace are the Schoenbrunn Gardens. These acres contain a sculpted garden, orangery, maze, long trellised walkways and quiet seating areas. Various movies and major concerts have been filmed on location. Along the Great Parterre are 32 cultures represented by deities and virtues. At the top of the 200-foot hill, is the Gloriette structure. Destroyed in WWW ll, it was restored in 1995. Today it houses an observation deck and café. In front, is the Roman Ruin which consists of a rectangular pool enclosed by an arch with lateral walls. A figural sculpture symbolizes the rivers Vltava and the Elbe.

Hasburg Palace is where the family resided during the remainder of the year. This palace is as ornate as all the other palaces.

The Spanish Riding School with Lipizzaner Stallions demonstrated a morning training session in the Emperor’s Baroque riding hall. Their noble gate and strong breeding, the horses are always born black, fade to gray, and turn a distinctive white as adults. The horses pranced to classical music while above huge, lavish chandeliers hung. A seat in the front row overlooking the stallions was magnificent. The horses begin training at 3-5 years. The riders begin training at 16-18 years old and complete their training in 15 years. A café connected to the riding school area provided selections of coffees, apple strudel and other baked delicacies.

Belvedere Palace is two palaces, the Upper and the Lower. Here is where the Belvedere Museum is housed. It contains art from the 19thand 20th Century Austrian artists. Located inside the Osterreichische Gallery is a replica of the famous “The Kiss” which is a self-portrait of Gustoff Klimt. Adorned in the Baroque style, the property has decorated tiered fountains, sculptures, wrought iron gates and an expansive decorative garden.

Maria Theresa’s center statue overlooks the Albertina Art Museum. It contains multi-national works of artists from Austria, Germany, Italy, Netherlands, and Spain.

St. Stephen’s stands in the center square towering over the city. It is a Gothic Cathedral in an ornate Gothic/Baroque style. The church is extremely ornate with a high altar, pulpit, organ and massive organ pipes. Frescoes and sculptures cover every crevice of the cathedral. Side altars depicting saints surround the nave. Towering spires rising above the city of Vienna, it is a masterpiece of architecture and a sightseeing symbol of Vienna. In front, is a large gathering square with side streets of shops, street musicians and cafes in every direction.

The Vienna State Opera is the World’s Greatest Opera House. Entering the front doors is a grand staircase of marble, chandeliered lobby, shimmering gold statues and lush carpeting. New Operas are presented nightly. The opera house, built in the 1860’s by Emperor Franz Joseph was inaugurated in 1869 with a performance of Mozart’s ‘Don Juan’. In 1945, the opera house was bombed. All that remained was the main façade, the grand staircase, the main lobby, attached veranda and the Tea Salon. In 1955, the opera reopened with the performance of Beethoven’s ‘Fidelio’. This opera house is the pride of Vienna. Concerts and classical music abound in the city. I was fortunate to have a private, early morning tour with a small group. The interior of the opera is opulent in size, seating 2200 attendees on the floor, selective boxes, and dignitary balcony seating. Standing by the orchestra pit one could imagine conducting the orchestra to a famous Mozart, Beethoven or Strauss performance. The stage, the size of the opera house itself was in the process of preparing for the evening performance. Although the stage is huge, costumes and scenery are stored in a nearby building until morning transfer to the stage. Work with the stage crew continues twenty-four hours a day. The luxurious intermission rooms for dignitaries were immense with gilded and architectural ceilings with frescoes. Mirrors adorned the walls for ladies to admire their luxurious gowns. Every box also had a small intermission area with beverages. Walking throughout the streets of Vienna, music can be heard from concert venues, churches, shopping areas and festivals held during the season.

The Kursalon is an opulent Renaissance style icon concert hall. The stirring music of Johann Strauss and Wolfgang Mozart is performed in Lanner Hall for visitors to celebrate Viennese music with vocalists, ballet and concert orchestra. Outside, in Vienna’s City Park, is one of the most photographed monuments in Vienna, The gold statue of “The Waltz King”…Johann Strauss. In 1921, as the ‘Blue Danube Waltz’ played, Edmund Hellmer’s statue was unveiled. Strauss’s waltzes kept the 300 ballroom floors around Vienna spinning with Viennese Waltzes during the 19th Century. Today, Balls continue to be held in the ballrooms and palaces. Dance lessons are a requirement to properly dance the Viennese waltz. During the ‘season’, couples elegantly dress in ball gowns and tuxedos, to participate in the Grand Waltz Balls or the Debutante Balls. During the summer, evening music performances reminisce the music of Strauss, Schubert, Beethoven, Haydn, Liszt and Mozart.

In front of the Parliament Building is the Athena Statue. Within the Parliament are committee rooms, libraries, dining rooms, bars and a gymnasium. The Town Hall in front is where the well-known Christmas Market is held yearly.

The Hausdermisik, the Music House, located in the old city center has an interactive music keyboard stairway and other musical hands-on experiences. The five upper floors feature all the composers who lived, composed and performed in the Vienna Concert Halls and Opera House.

Vienna has many green spaces. The Prater was designed as a large space for the Viennese people to enjoy the outdoors. Today it is an amusement park with enclosed cabins which rotate like a ferris wheel. Fabulous pictures of the city can be taken on this slowly moving ride.

On nearly every corner is a pub or café with locals and visitors. During the day and evening, they linger and enjoy conversations and an evening of drinking bier. Nearby, clustered around the towns, are the wine gardens. A visit to Heiligenstadt is the Beethovenhaus Wine Garden where Beethoven lived and began working on his Ninth Symphony.

The Naschmarkt, Vienna’s Old World Market of 120 stalls immerses you in the flavors and colors of Vienna. Here you will find vendors selling fruit, vegetables, meat, fish, olives, bread, oils, wine and handmade products. Small indoor and outdoor restaurants line the corridors including a beer garden. This is an International market of food and spices from throughout the world. Chefs buy produce from the market to prepare meals in upscale city restaurants. Chatting with the vendors and sampling sweet crepes and Austrian cheeses from alpine dairies makes for an enjoyable, delectable afternoon.

Charles’ Church was built in the early 1770’s. Art, teaching, and music are represented among the hundreds of frescoes, main altar, side altars and organ pipes. Musical Masterpieces are performed here frequently.

If You Go:

Specific advice for visiting Vienna is to contact the Vienna Chamber of Commerce. Centrally located you can receive advice from highly qualified, multi-lingual individuals. The Commerce provides brochures on all cultural sights, performances, museums, churches and any other interests you may have. Address: Albertinaplatz, 1010 Wien, Austria Phone:+43 1 24555
Purchase a 48 or 72 hour Vienna Tourist Pass. The pass allows for unlimited use of trams and the underground for transportation. The pass also provides for tourist site discounts.
Explore the city while relaxing in a horse drawn carriage.
The Hop-On, Hop-Off Bus Tour is a double-decker bus with panoramic views.
See Vienna by bike, small tours, private tours or by boat on the Danube.

Vienna Pass Including Hop-On Hop-Off Bus Ticket

About the author:
Mary Ann Olson is a published journalist, travel writer and musician. She is a member of the Professional Writers’ Alliance and the International Travel Writer and Photographers Association. Mary Ann provides great insight into the culture, music and arts in the countries visited. Wine and Food are a passion and a focus of her travel writing. She shares her travels at I Write About Travel.com.

All photos are by Mary Ann Olson:
Schonbrunn Palace
Schonbrunn Gardens
Lipizzaner Stallions
Belvedere Palace
St. Stephen’s Cathedral
Vienna State Opera
Johann Strauss
Prater
Naschmarkt

by Larry Zaletel

A people’s culture is defined not only by their traditions and values but also by their food and drink. Food brings people together especially when they gather around the dinner table.

Traveling across the globe, there is a variety of good food from various different nationalities and sampling food of different countries can be very rewarding. Although the food may be prepared differently in Europe, have an open mind and enjoy new flavors and sample the scrumptious delicacies.

Austria

Some of my personal favorite ethnic eats are in Austria. In Wels a small town in the Northwestern section of the country there is a local market which is very similar to the Westside Market in Cleveland, Ohio. A new building was recently constructed to house the vendors. On the outside of the market vendors sell various fresh fruits and vegetables etc. Nothing there is prepackaged. Inside the building the vendors provide various types of fresh food including meat, poultry, eggs, cheese and even schnapps (whiskey). My favorite vendor has barbecue roast chicken on a spit and as of late a new item lightly breaded chicken wings which go well with a stein (a traditional German beer tankard) of beer. Priced by the kilogram (2.2 pounds) US $3.00-$5.00.

Not too far from Wels is the small village of Marchtrenk, Austria. On Saturday morning, market day in the square, a white Mercedes truck (long before food trucks became popular in the United States) provides barbeque chicken to the many people lined up waiting to order. The truck is a mobile rotisserie converted to hold two rows of rotisserie chicken gently rotating. Each bank holds five rotisserie spits of chicken. Priced by the kilogram US $5:00.

Croatia

There are other taste treats to learn about and experience. Crossing from Slovenia into Croatia passing through village after village the signs for roast pork (svinjina) and lamb (jagnjetina grilled lamb both roasted on spit) began to appear. The local Gostionas (Restaurants, Bars) were preparing their grills for roasting. As luck would have it, we always seemed to miss many of these establishments. It might have been sheer luck and or just bad timing. We were either too early or too late for lunch or there was not a Gostiona located in the area where we were.

However luck was on our side one morning just a little before noon as we headed toward Zagreb our way to Slovenia. At the outskirts of a small village we came to an intersection in the road. I stopped to determine which direction to proceed as there were no road signs. My wife said, “Look to your left.” I glanced to the left and there on the spit were two suckling pigs roasting to perfection. I looked at my wife and said, “Lunch time.” The A-Frame sign in front of the Gostiona listed Odojak (suckling pig in Croatian).

Finally the timing was right. We sat outside under a covered porch after purchasing a kilogram of roast pork which included salad, bread and beer. Everything was tasty. My wife sampled the pork and I began to enjoy the additional treat of the lightly tanned hard crunchy pork skin that brought back a lot of fond memories. We washed everything down with Ozujsko beer and I believe that the beer in Europe is delicious whether you enjoy it in Austria, Slovenia, Croatia or Germany. It doesn’t matter it all tastes good. They have been brewing beer for 300-400 years and they have got it together US $15:00.

Having been in the former Yugoslavia a few times we learned over the years on what to look for when it comes to roast pork and lamb. Normally vendors and restaurateurs post signs advertising their wares along the road. Driving through Split on the Jadranska Magistrala along the coast toward Dubrovnik about lunch time we just could not find an establishment that had roast lamb or pork. Either we missed the signs or there just weren’t any. Finally we stopped at a local restaurant and we were given directions on where to find janjetina. Down the road and up the side of a sparsely covered mountain, we traveled higher and higher on the narrow pebbled road turning this way and that as the road curved back and forth along the side of the mountain, my cousin sitting in the back seat hanging firmly on to the hand strap fixed to the car roof. We drove on and on for over an hour. Finally we found it. The war had taken its toll. It was a bombed out building and on the side of the building a faded wooden sign advertised jagnjetina. My cousin started laughing hysterically!!! Someone was having a good laugh on us. Consequently we did not have roast pork or jagnjetina this day.

Bosnia & Herzegovina (BIH)

On another occasion we were traveling by bus from Sarajevo to Mostar we stopped in the town of Jablanica to view the local historical sights. We learned from the locals just on the outskirts about one kilometer south of Jablanica was the restaurant Zdrava Voda (Health Water). There on six roasting spits was lamb grilling on an open fire continuously throughout the day enough to quell the hunger for both the tourist traveling between Sarajevo and Mostar and the local population. The price was US $15.00 which included potatoes, salad, and bread. Jablanica is known for this mouth watering delicacy and that there are over 8 restaurants in the vicinity that serve it. www.zdravavoda.co.ba

We learned from a local butcher in Medjugorje that the Restaurant Udovice located in Sretnice, 88203 Krusevo has Roast Lamb. It is located about 7-10 kilometers from Medjugorje and about 9 kilometers from Mostar. www.udovice.ba. The restaurant has two barbeque pits with seven spits for roasting Janjetina outside in the front of the establishment. Price US $15.00 which included potatoes, salad, and bread.

In Sarajevo the restaurant Cevabdzinica Zeljo, on street Kundurdziluk 18, in the Bascarsija seems to be the favorite place for locals to enjoy a “healthy” meal of cevapcici with onions, sour cream and yogurt. Cevapcici is beef minced meat in a roll served with pita bread and priced under US $7.00. Other versions of this delicacy are made with ground lamb, veal, and pork.

Pizza is almost as much of a staple in the former Yugoslavia as it is in the United States. I noticed how popular it was when first visiting Slovenia. I was surprised that pizza appeared to be more readily available than local food.

Pizza is not made the same way as in the United States. The crust is somewhat thinner and the toppings and combinations are different although very tasty. Seafood including squid, shrimp is used and also sweet corn. Sausage is very popular and there are many different varieties. Each country has its own types of sausage therefore the assortment of tastes are endless. One of our favorites in Sarajevo was the restaurant café Pizzeria Oscar that provides pizza and spaghetti, price US $15.00-$25.00.

Sarajevo Cultural Walking Tour with Local Food Tasting

If You Go:

How to get there

There are no direct flights from the United States to Austria, Croatia, and Bosnia & Hercegovina. However air travelers can go to Frankfurt, Munich, Paris, or London for connecting airlines. Driving through Croatia from Rijeka toward Dubrovnik and points south is about a 3-4 hour drive. At present the new autobahn completed in 2005 ends at Ravca south of Split. Construction is ongoing and continuation of the highway to southernmost Dalmatia and Dubrovnik is scheduled to be complete sometime in the near future.

Where to stay

A Gostilna (Gasthaus in German) is a modest country inn serving home cooked meals. There is no hard and fast rule but many gostilna’s have sleeping arrangements and usually include breakfast in the morning. If there is a picture of a bed hanging out in front of the establishment then they have sleeping accommodations.

Besides hotels and Gostilna’s there are many bed & breakfast (sobes) that are common in Europe. There are signs along the roadsides advertising them. The local tourist bureaus usually have list of sobes with prices and further information. They are highly recommended as a delightful way to meet the people and make new friends. We have been very fortunate to find some very charming sobes in our travels. We are thus able to meet the people, get acquainted with those from other cultures and learn about them and their way of life.

Usually the price can be negotiated. Prices average about $45-$80 per night and they are much cheaper than hotels and normally include breakfast. We have stayed in sobes in Germany, Austria, Slovenia and Croatia and have revisited them on several occasions.

The Gostilna Pri Belokranjcu, Kandijska cesta 63, 8000 Novo Mesto, Slovenia is situated almost in the center of town across the street from the Renault factory and is close to two shopping malls. This family bed and breakfast has 28 rooms with double beds. The owners Branko and Mojca Vrbetic offers daily menus with home made bread and a local wine called Cvicek. Refrigerators and laundry services for extended guests are available. Slovenian, Serbian/Croatian, Russian, German, Italian and English are spoken. Tel 386 7 30 28 444, Price $60-$80 per night. Very good home cooked food. www.pribelokranjcu-vp.si

Boutique 36, price 67 Euro, . 71000 Sarajevo, Bosnia-Hercegovina, Safvet bega Basagica 36, www.hb36.ba

Zagreb Food & Wine Journey: Farmer’s market – Brunch – Boutique winery

Where to eat

Gostilna and Restaurant Ansenik, 4275 Begunje, Slovenia, Telephone 386 4 530 70 30, www.avsenik.com. This is a genteel family establishment that includes very good homemade Slovenian food, international cuisine, venison, fish and other seafood dishes. Additionally they offer both vegetarian and grilled dishes. Prices are moderate. There is a children’s playground, conference area, and dance-floor. There is music on Wednesdays and Fridays evenings in the multi purpose hall which seats 220 persons. Hours: Daily 10:00 AM-11:00 PM, Sunday: 10:00AM-9 PM, Monday: Closed.

Pizzeria & Spaghettarija Don Bobi, Kandijska Cesta 14, 8000 Novo Mesto, Slovenia. Tel 386 7 338 24 00, email don.bobi@siol.net. Extensive menu and moderately priced $8-$18. Complete with indoor and outdoor dining. This is one of our favorites. Very good pasta and pizza.

Gostilna Ancka, Delavska 18, 4208 Sencur, Slovenia is about a five minute ride from the Joze Pucnik Airport. Tel 386 4 251 52 00. They offer homemade Slovenian dishes, venison, freshwater fish, and vegetarian dishes. It is complete with indoor and outdoor dining that includes a huge terrace. It is a very nicely decorated restaurant with a friendly staff with over 35 years of experience. The food is freshly prepared and their style of ribs is very good. Prices are moderate.

Barhana, Dulagina Cikma 8, www.barhana.ba, in the Bascarsija, Sarajevo, Bosnia-Hercegovina. We visited it on a cold drizzly night and its good wholesome food of lamb Goulash and the local drink of Rakija (plum brandy) which took the chill out of our bones. Prices are moderate. 033 447 727.

Konoba Mediterano is located across from the Cathedral, Dubrovnik, Croatia. Types of food include risotto, pasta, seafood, and other Croatian favorites. Prices, moderate plus.

About the author:
Larry is a freelance travel writer, an avid and dedicated traveler, and recurring visitor to Europe, the Caribbean and Hawaii. He writes about the various people that he has met and places that he has visited during my travels. Larry is a regular contributor to Travel Thru History.

All photographs by Larry Zaletel:
Whole Chickens sold from a Truck, Marchtrenk, Austria
Chicken Stand at the market in Marchtrenk, Austria
Chicken Wings Marchtrenk, Austria
Lamb on a Spit, Pag, Croatia
Pizzeria Oscar in Sarajevo, Bosnia
Lamb on a Spit, Jablanica, Bosnia

Austria

by Bob S. Hale

Vienna is the city of castles, palaces, extraordinary churches; it is the city of the Viennese waltz…and the Viennese vaults. Vaults. As in, tombs! Caskets and coffins, and urns filled with ashes. And, urns filled with innards! They are all on display right there…in the church basement.

Go on in, and enjoy the “Viennese Vaults.”

There they rest – rulers of the once-mighty Habsburg Empire. They lie in ornate coffins, in plain coffins, in gigantic tombs and small tombs, and vases for ashes and innards. It is a mesmerizing scene.

The slightly creepy, yet captivating, display of the dead is in the lower level (where else!) of the Capuchin Church, in the heart of Vienna’s famed “Ring.” There, in several rooms, in many caskets, is the history of Europe as we’ve come to know it.

There, in that church crypt, is most of the royalty that led the Holy Roman, and Austro-Hungarian empires. The history of those several hundred years, 1618 to 2011 (the last Habsburg to make it in was laid to rest in July 2011), shaped Europe and the Americas. It wasn’t a well-defined, clearly delineated empire that the Habsburgs governed. At various times they ruled 44 nations, duchies, and a variety of ethnic gatherings; some were part of the Holy Roman Empire, some were not – such was the political jigsaw puzzle of Europe back then.

The Habsburg Empire marks its beginning in 1276, according to one source, when Rudolph of Habsburg moved from the family house – the Habsburg Castle in Switzerland – to Austria, beginning the expansion of the dynasty, as well as the construction of castles, fortresses, palaces and royal hideaways. By the 16th century the Habsburg’s empire had expanded to the point where two Habsburg lines were ruling Europe.

The Habsburgs knew they were creating a unique royal line – it would become the longest running in history – so why not keep their legacy alive, even after death? To that end, Empress Anna, wife of emperor Matthias (1600s), convinced the Capuchin cloister in Vienna that they should create a crypt for her and her husband so they could be visible reminders of the Habsburg legacy.

Anna, in her will, written in 1617, set aside funds to begin building that crypt. Good thing she did – she died a year later. Her husband died the following year. Politics and war put off the crypt building until 1633. Their burials were the beginning of a practice that reached its royal conclusion this year. On July 4, 2011 Otto von Habsburg, also known as Otto of Austria, “former head of the House of Habsburg and Sovereign of the Order of the Golden Fleece (1922–2007) and former Crown Prince (1916–1918) and, by pretence, Emperor-King (from 1922), of Austria-Hungary—or formally, of Austria, Hungary and Bohemia, of Dalmatia, Croatia, Slavonia, Galicia, Lodomeria and Illyria, and of Jerusalem…” (There’s more, but you get the idea.) — died. He was 98. And that should pretty much do it for the House of Habsburg.

Oh, there is room for one or two more; and, there are a couple of Habsburgs still around who may request “a room at the inn,” but as far as history is concerned the Holy Roman Empire, and the Habsburg Monarchy are fertig, abgeschlossen, geschlagen … kaput! Just shy of 400 years!

There are 144 caskets, and ossuaries containing Habsburg rulers, their children, close relatives, and some internal organs. Visitors reach out and touch the tombs and urns, hands within inches of the long dead. Yes, it is bit macabre; yet, it is magnetic.

From 1618 on, casket after casket was put in place, making it necessary to expand, creating rooms for more Habsburg royalty. One huge room was designed just to hold the gigantic, highly embellished tomb of Maria Theresia, probably the most famous of all the Habsburgs. The artwork on Maria’s tomb is astonishing. The practice of interring organs in one church, the heart in another, and the body in the crypt of the Capuchin church began with King Ferdinand IV of the Romans in 1654. He left orders that his body was to go to the Capuchins; his heart to Augustinerkirche; and the urn with his viscera to Vienna’s St. Stephens. A few urns remain with the Capuchins. It’s tad ghoulish, to be sure, but a custom – unique to the Habsburgs – that exists to this day. The last three-stages of separation took place July of 2010 for Otto von Habsburg.

The roll call of the dead who are interred in the Capuchin crypt is far too extensive to put on paper. Visitors might want to have a computer print out in hand. While Vienna invites the visitor to enjoy the waltzes, orchestras, pastries, coffee houses, the world-famous Choir Boys, and – of course, schnitzel – it also calls us to the crypts that vividly display its royal history. The dead down there have stories to tell. Oh yes… and remember, in Vienna the Dance of Death is in three-quarter time.

Private 3-Hour Walking Tour of Vienna

If You Go:

A web site to remember: www.wein.info

Getting to Vienna is easy from most major gateway US cities. Lufthansa, Austrian and Swiss Air are major carriers from the US. From European cities numerous low-cost local airlines have departures all day. And, of course, if time permits, a high-speed train is a delightful European experience.

WHERE TO STAY:

Viennese hotels within the “Ring” can be very costly; $500.00 a night is not unheard of. Small “walk-up, ride-up” pensions are more reasonable alternatives. Opera Suites-Kärntenr Strasse 47 (Ph: 512310) – A Very welcoming boutique hotel: clean, comfortable beds. Airy, and brightly decorated; it fees like Vienna; an extremely helpful staff. (195-220 Euros)

Hotel Kaiserin Elisabeth. Weihburggasse 3 (Ph: 512 19 23) – An upscale property. High class; prices are likewise! But the reputation is excellent; service matches. Luxury, European style. (195-232 Euros)

Visit Vienna Hotel Start website. Virtually every one of the 200 properties is listed with rates and available dates.

TIP: The smaller boutique properties have more time to assist guests in getting around the city.

MUST SEE: Vienna Riding School; The Hofburg; St. Stephansdom (Cathedral). Even non-Catholics will sense the richness of history at a Sunday mass. Sit on the right side, upfront next to the tomb of Fredrick III. Also: The Schonbrunn Palace, The Prater (park) and ride the Ferris wheel. Enclosed cars give the rider a stunning view of Vienna.

JUST FOR FUN: Get on a tram and ride until it ends. Then do the return trip from the other side of the car. An inexpensive way to see Vienna.

About the author:
A former Chicago radio and TV broadcaster. Bob has been a DJ, newscaster, interviewer, producer, writer, and “gopher!” Bob’s broadcasting career began at KRIB in Mason City, Iowa where he also hosted a weekly record hop at Clear Lake’s SURF BALLROOM. In Feb of 1959 his guests were Buddy Holly, Ritchie Valens and the Big Bopper – it would be their last personal appearance. Bob moved on to Springfield, Illinois, Peoria, and then WLS in Chicago, joining the station in 1960 when it became one of the nation’s biggest popular music stations. Bob moved into television in 1966 as program host, producer, and news anchor. He has turned his attention to travel writing and photography, with stops in the USA, South America, the Caribbean, Asia, and Europe. Bob’s favorite travel experience? “Trains…anytime, any kind, but especially those that huff and puff, and spew smoke and cinders!” For his article here on Vienna, Bob traveled by air and riverboat. “They’re not bad, either,” he says.

All photographs are by Bob S. Hale.

Kundle, Austria

by Josephine Montgomery

Fate, if you are willing to follow, can lead to some fascinating and extraordinary journeys. Never one to follow the beaten path I took the road less traveled and emailed embassies for wood-carving schools across the globe. A reply from the Austrian embassy intrigued me, it told of Kundle, a picturesque town in Austria and a Master Carver. Kundle also had a train station. Many small towns in Austria do not have transportation services beyond local buses; the quaint little train station in Kundle was our magic carpet.

Joe, my husband, and I arrived in Munich, Germany on a sunny afternoon in September. Using the airport mini bus service we arrived in Kundle an hour and a half later. Anna, the Master Carver’s wife, a small, slim lady with sparkling eyes ran down a flight of stairs to greet us. She whisked us to a spacious second floor guest room with a large deck overlooking gardens and a spectacular view of the mountains. We followed Anna as she ran across the garden and up another flight of stairs that led to a door with an impressive eagle carved in relief. Stepping through the door was akin to entering a tree house filled with industrious wood spirits. Sunlight filtered through floor to ceiling windows of a huge workshop, sharp tools sizzled across fragrant pine. Intricate carvings came to life under Herr Binder’s soft spoken direction and shrewd eye.

Carving in Kundle was a unique experience, surrounded by beautiful carvings it was impossible not to be inspired. Eagles, wings outstretched, perched near windows as though waiting to take flight. Alpine Ibex, with enormous backward curving horns, seemed ready to leap off craggy, wooden rocks. Larger than life faces with swirling beards, tangled hair and mischievous eyes smiled down from walls as we carved.

Herr Binder, a tall distinguished man with a mop of silver hair, greeted his students each morning with his wife Anna, and daughter Christa in the spacious dining room. The family spoke good English as did other students from northern and southern Germany. I thought Anna, with her boundless energy and sharp wit, to be in her mid sixties and daughter Christa her mid forties. After breakfast one morning I asked who had won the large silver trophy on the mantelpiece. The room fell silent when Anna explained it was hers. She once raced cars for a hobby and won the trophy when she was seventy eight years old. A swift calculation from the date on the trophy made Frau Anna Binder ninety one years old.

“Were you not afraid for your wife?” asked one of the students.
“Not at all,” replied Herr Binder, “but I was afraid for the car.”
“Mother skied until she was eighty five years old, she used to buy very modern ski outfits,” said Christa with a sniff, “she thought they made her look younger on the slopes.”
“I only stopped skiing after you broke your leg on the mountain and you wouldn’t drive me to the slopes,” Anna replied with a sharp sideways glance at her daughter.

With old world courtesy Herr Binder excused himself, he had a small errand to run before class. The students watched as he roared out of the garage on a streamlined silver and black electric vehicle, similar to a sporty motorcycle with four wheels. He gave a cheery wave as he drove past dressed in black leather jacket and cap set at a jaunty angle.

“In Austria,” Anna said, “you cannot drive a car after your ninetieth birthday.”

Christa said a couple of weeks previously her father purchased a pine tree and she helped him stack the pre-cut wood to dry ready for when he needed it in a year or two. Herr Binder at ninety years of age was an optimist.

Postcards often depict glimpses of destinations quite unrelated to reality. Kundle is the exception. Intricately carved wooden balconies and eves changed pastel colored walls of houses, shops and restaurants into whimsical gingerbread creations. Geraniums, petunias and ferns tumbled in cascades of color from every balcony and window box. The Hanging Gardens of Babylon could not have looked more beautiful. Narrow winding streets led to fountains where children splashed on their way home from school and towns people gathered to eat lunch. Five restaurants served a variety of food, we enjoyed authentic Austrian dishes in a restaurant where massive wood furnishings, beams and doors were heavily decorated with carvings. Family members gathered in large groups for dinner and men in colorful lederhosen stopped for a pint of lager en-route to festival rehearsals. As the atmosphere filled with camaraderie, clinking glasses, bursts of regional songs and laughter, enhanced by wafts from the kitchen of frying Wiener Schnitzel, Goulash and apfelstrudel, we felt we were on stage, part of the cast in a movie extravaganza.

Strolling home one evening after a delicious meal of smoked trout in a mid seventeenth century Pension we heard the clanging of cow bells. A herd of cows came bustling up a side-street heading for their night quarters in a barn attached to a house. At seven o’clock in the evening it was the duty of anyone passing by to stand at the top of the street and encourage the animals not to make a detour through town.

Most days for lunch we bought fresh picked fruit, local cheese and crackers, walked over Kundle river bridge and ate our mid-day meal sitting in a tiny park by a big goldfish pond in the shadow of a tall pink and white church. Strolling past the grocery stores after lunch we marveled at the number of elderly ladies loading groceries into large baskets on the front and rear of their bicycles and threading more shopping bags along the handlebars. The shopping expeditions became even more hazardous one afternoon when a brief rain shower brought them to a halt. Undaunted the ladies clicked an umbrella over their head, climbed back on their bicycle and pedaled off, steering one handed, towards home.

I signed up for three weeks carving instruction, choosing to carve mornings only, leaving time to catch the train to numerous small Tyrolean towns within thirty minutes ride of Kundle. Even the smallest town boasted a castle, large or small, huddled on mountain tops the castles looked down on the inhabitants like benevolent protectors. Rattenburg with a population of 440 is the smallest town in the country. Founded in the 14th century it was built in the shadow of Rat Mountain to protect it from marauders. Following ancient cobblestone streets we stumbled upon a glass blowing demonstration. A cavernous area hewn deep into rock displayed hand blown glass animals, birds, dragons and flowers. Suspended from the cave ceiling lit by soft, revolving colored lights the glass sculptures cast dancing shadows across ancient stone walls. Sparkling Austrian crystal, dazzling rainbows of color, glistened like stalactites in dark corners. This little town, characterized by its medieval ambience is known far and wide as “glass town.”

About a two hour train ride from Kundle is Salzburg, an impressive baroque city with a stunning river walk leading towards the impressive white fortress, Festung Hohensalzburg. Magnificent Salzburg, home of Mozart, is not to be missed, but the town of Kufstein stole my heart.

Kufstein, located between South Tyrol in Italy and Bavaria in Germany is known as the “pearl of the Tyrol.” It has about 15,000 inhabitants, the majestic Kufstein Fortress, a massive fortification dating from the mid 12th century rears above the town on a precipitous crag. An interesting feature of the fortress is the “Heroes” organ built in 1931 it was the first open air organ in the world. During summer months concerts are played at noon each day in memory of those who died in the two world wars. In both world wars the Fortress tunnels were used for shelter. Sitting in an out-door café by the beautiful Inn River savoring chocolate cream cake while listening to the soulful organ music float down from the fortress and drift through the flower filled historical district below is a magical experience. The music can be heard eight miles away.

We left Kundle with requests to please come back again and hugs from the entire Binder family, climbing onboard the minibus they waved until we were out of sight. On the long flight home I pondered why the carving experience in Kundle had been so rewarding. There was no hurrying and scurrying from student to student. Herr Binder’s chisels moved effortlessly over wood as though sketching, he recognized who needed help and sat with a student until, under his soft spoken guidance, problems were resolved. The town of Kundle generated the same air of tranquility, no graffiti, no litter, streets were swept clean each day and everyone enjoyed each others company, sharing their generosity of spirit with strangers. It was a unique world, where elderly ladies rode bicycles to shop and a ninety year old Master wood-carver gave classes.

Dinner Experience at Salzburg Fortress and Mozart Concert in Salzburg

If You Go:

Slide views of Kufstein past and present day.
www.heimat-kufstein.at

Kufstein: Information on Fortress and Town.
www.planetware.com/kufstein/feste-kufstein-a-t-feskuf.htm

Rattenburg: Scroll down page to view 10 Photos
www.tirolaustria.co.uk/?Rattenberg_Tirol

Information on Rattenburg
www.tyrol.tl/en/tyrols-holiday-areas/kufstein-and-surroundings/rattenberg.html

Kundle: Information on 13th Century Kundle.
www.tyrol.tl/en/tyrols-holiday-areas/kufstein-and-surroundings/kundl.html

About the author:

Josephine Montgomery is a British subject and citizen of the world. She has traveled extensively in the Middle East, and for two years, while living in a small Arab village, studied written and spoken Arabic at Amman University in the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan. She writes travel articles and children’s stories.

All photos are by Josephine Montgomery.

Salzburg, Austria

by Jessica Peter

My congested breath puffs out in visible clouds as I lumber down the trail from my hostel. In my hazy, fever-induced state, it takes me a while to clue in that large groups of people are headed in the same direction, toward Salzburg’s Altstadt (Old Town). I write them off as other tourists braving the cold to see the heart of the city. My first glimpse of the village through the trees tells me otherwise, and it isn’t just my fever. Underneath the looming hilltop fortress, the town is quaint, baroque, and lit up like Vegas.

Spinning rides and vendor booths pack the central square. They are selling wooden toys and traditional crafts and that curious gingerbread that seems to be a fixture of the German-speaking festival: heart-shaped with endearments printed in icing, meant to be worn around the neck. There’s music in the streets, and a group has gathered around to watch an old couple who is dancing a slow waltz. I’m surprised to see how many people have arrived wearing the traditional lederhosen and dirndls. As I squeeze my way between hordes of carousing Austrians, I feel as if I have arrived in the wrong city. I hadn’t pictured the town of Mozart’s birth to have such activity.

But then the smells reach my nostrils and it doesn’t matter. There’s the salty warmth of pretzels, the tang of sauerkraut, and a deeper scent that just says food. I dig into a giant cheesy pretzel as an appetizer, and then find the cluster of food booths. Sausages and schnitzel seem to be the main order of the day. I make my way to a schnitzel booth and dig right in, rubbing my hands together to keep warm between scooping massive forkfuls of the tender breaded veal.

Though it’s only late September, I’m shaking with the chill by the time I’m finished. I use my own cold as an excuse, and try to make a guilty return back to the hostel. But then I hear music that to my ears could only be described as oom-pah-pah coming from the large red-and-white-striped tent I had somehow missed on my walk in. Inside, a folk band in lederhosen plays to hundreds of spectators singing, eating, dancing on benches, and clanking giant steins of beer. There’s also the element I was most desperately missing: warmth! I feel like I’m the only non-Austrian in the

The older gentleman sitting across from me tries to engage me in conversation, so I bust out my best German – in my poor imitation of the Northern German accent I had learned in school. I might as well have been speaking gibberish to the Austrian, so we settle on my native tongue. A pair of women join the stilted English conversation, and I finally learn that September 24th is the Feast of St. Rupert, the patron saint of Salzburg. The festival in town occurs on the weekend each year closest to that date.

But then the three Austrians start a new game that I can only describe as ‘inebriate the foreigner’. A second beer from my new friends is in order, but that isn’t all. I’m obliged to accept a glass of Sturm, a young red wine that tastes amazingly like grape juice. Dangerous for a heavy drinker, but very tasty. A wink from the man and scrunched noses from the women tell me I’m in trouble at their next plot. A girl wearing both a long dirndl dress and a barrel comes by our table. The Austrians hand the girl money, and a single shotglass of clear liquid is placed in front of me. All eyes turn my way and I feel a twinge of foreboding.

“Schnapps,” the man says ominously, with delight twinkling in his eyes.

It burns all the way down, but clears my sinuses on the way. The women howl with laughter at the faces I make and I have to turn down the offer of a second shot. Just one was enough to warm me all the way back to the hostel after eventually saying ‘Auf Wiedersehn’ to my Austrian friends.

Private Tour: Salzburg City Highlights Tour

If You Go:

The feast day of the patron saint of Salzburg, St Rupert, is September 27. St Rupert’s Fair occurs on the nearest weekend (September 22-26 in 2010). However, many European cities celebrate the feast day of their patron saint in various ways. Find the patron saints of the cities you’ll be visiting with this list from Wikipedia and be sure to check if you’ll be in town during their feast day.

About the author:
Jessica Peter has deep-seated obsessions with writing, crafting, and travel. Some of her favourite travel experiences include watching busking bands, searching out street art, and sampling local food. On her “Bucket List” is travel, pretty much everywhere. Find her at her creativity blog, jessdoesstuff.blogspot.com or on Twitter twitter.com/jessicapeter1

All photos are by Jessica Peter.