By Leslie Jones

The rugged Santa Lucia Mountains gracefully tumble down to the mighty Pacific Ocean along California’s scenic Pacific Coast Highway. Towering high overhead, their majestic size safely guards many secrets of this intriguing area’s cultural and historic past. Driving into this magical backdrop simply takes your breath away with its unparalleled beauty, whimsical charm, and creative forces at play.

The colossal castle high upon the hill is just one of many reminders of the history that abounds along this remarkable, scenic corridor on the journey north to Big Sur. Hearst Castle, a dream brought to life by publishing tycoon William Randolph Hearst, is now a California State Park Museum as well as a National Historic Landmark and California Historical Landmark. He and his famed architect, Julia Morgan, designed this elaborate castle housing ornate tapestries and artistic relics and artifacts from around the world.

Directly across Highway 1 lies San Simeon State Park, showcasing the area’s charming, historic schoolhouse (1881), general store (1852) and many warehouses once used to store Hearst’s world-renowned treasures. San Simeon Point, a local Chumash sacred site, gracefully frames this enchanting beach cove area.

Just up the road lies the majestic Piedras Blancas Light Station perched above dramatic ocean rock formations. This lighthouse was first illuminated in February 1875 and was originally 100 feet tall complete with a first order Fresnel lens. It became a California Coastal National Monument addition in 2017.

In 1994, scientists from the National Marine Fisheries Service (NMFS) began taking an annual count of gray whale mothers and calves as they passed Piedras Blancas in April and May on their way to their annual feeding grounds in the Arctic seas. It is also utilized as a United States Geological Survey (USGS) California Sea Otter counting and nearby elephant seal rookery census data collecting location.

Heading higher into the Santa Lucias, dramatic views of the expansive Big Sur coastline are visible around each turn. At times, with an almost translucent teal color, there’s a plethora of activity to witness far down below in and around the ocean’s edge. Sea otters frolic in the coves, untouched beaches beckon and on occasion, you’ll see someone fishing or collecting mussels on the rocks.

California Sea Otters, also known as the “teddy bears of the sea”, were once close to extinction. Under the Endangered Species Act, they continue to expand in range and population. By the 1930s it was believed that they had vanished due to fur traders. Fortunately, a small group survived and continued to thrive in the area.  They are a true joy to watch with their playful antics and adorable appeal.

Gorda is one of several small, colorful towns you pass through while continuing north. The fresh springs in Gorda were used by local Native American tribes (Esselen) and the first Europeans arrived in 1878, when a stagecoach stop was built. Today it is a small, whimsical enclave offering the Gorda Springs Resort, Whale Watcher’s Café and a gas station.

The area’s population expanded with the nearby Gold Rush during the 1880s. Gold and silver were discovered in Big Sur in the late 19th century. In response, miners began searching along this southern flank of Pico Blanco. Today, the entire area is still littered with the rusting remnants of mining operations.

Lime was also formed nearby (limestone converted into calcium oxide/lime) at the historic limekilns at Limestone State Park. The walk through this enchanted coastal redwood forest alone is worth the climb up to the limekilns to admire their ominous skeletal remains. The area also hosts one of many gorgeous beaches you’ll want to enjoy for days on end. Big Sur naturally brings the kid out in you as well as the artist’s creative soul.

Rare and valuable forms of jade have also been found around a nearby area known as Jade Cove. Starting in Gorda in 1990, the ongoing Big Sur Jade Festival now showcases hundreds of amazing jade, wood, and rock artist creations. On my last trip north, I met a husband-and-wife team in Gorda who dive for and sell jade at festivals and in Gorda. It was a true pleasure to hear adventurous stories of these sometimes-precarious dives.

Esalen Institute is a holistic retreat and educational institute first established in 1962. Joan Baez and friends once played there at Big Sur Folk Festivals while the colorful author and artist Henry Miller and his local friends populated the area for many years. It has become a wonderful place for a self-soothing, yoga and writing retreat since it is merely a few hours away.

Offering farm-to-table fresh meals (including amazing curries, salads, soups and much more) straight from their expansive garden, Esalen offers a fascinating mix of workshops and a large 120-acre ocean view property in which to roam. It is also well known for its hot springs.

The location was first homesteaded by Thomas Slate in 1882, when he filed a land patent under the Homestead Act of 1862. This made it possible for citizens to claim 160 acres of surveyed government land. Homesteaders were required to build a dwelling and cultivate the land. After five years, they owned their land free and clear.

The settlement became known as Slates Hot Springs. It was the first tourist-oriented business in Big Sur, frequented by people seeking relief from numerous physical ailments. Soaking in the soothing tubs while listening to the nearby crashing waves is a uniquely, peaceful experience.

A Little Further North

Continuing to navigate the twists and turns of one of the most highly photographed drives in the world, you’ll soon come across names including Post and Pfeiffer. Early pioneers Michael and Barbara Pfeiffer came to Big Sur in 1869 and were among the first European settlers in the area. The homestead of their son, John Pfeiffer, has been reconstructed in Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, and his Pfeiffer Ranch Resort, established in 1908, was replaced by the Big Sur Lodge. Another nearby state park is named in honor of their daughter Julia Pfeiffer Burns.

Nearby, (Grandpa) Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn, was designed and built from the 1930s to 1960s. With each room hosting a unique personality, much of what was designed architecturally was recreated from his native Norway. Deetjen’s Inn was bequeathed for others to enjoy in 1972 and The US Department of the Interior placed Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn on the National Register of Historic Places in 1990. Its rustic, hand-crafted charm transports you back to Big Sur’s early years.

The Henry Miller Memorial Library is a non-profit organization celebrating the artistic contributions of Henry Miller, while serving as a cultural resource center for artists, writers, and musicians. It is also a wonderful outdoor venue for warm summer afternoon concerts.

While known best for novels including Tropic of Cancer, Tropic of Capricorn, The Colossus of Maroussi, Henry spoke of his intriguing years in this area (1944-1962) in Big Sur and the Oranges of Hieronymus Bosch. He was often viewed as a master storyteller and rather colorful character. Many of his paintings are also available to view at the area’s Coast Gallery.

Nepenthe Restaurant has a colorful history all its own dating back to 1949 when it opened by the Fassett Family who still owns it today. It was previously owned by Orson Welles and Rita Hayworth when it was merely a cabin in 1944. It was also used to film movies including The Sandpiper featuring Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton (1963).

Continue north and you’ll eventually reach the Monterey Peninsula with plenty of additional exploring to do along the way. Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park and Pfeiffer Beach, Point Sur Lighthouse and State Historical Park, and the famed Bixby Bridge are found along this northern portion.

The best piece of advice while traversing this historic sector is to slow down and enjoy the views. The ocean vistas are unparalleled, the small towns and stops are intriguing, and the entire area speaks volumes of the vast history it encompasses. Enjoy the famous Ambrosia Burger at Nepenthe for lunch, visit one of the taverns where the local stories are shared, walk barefoot on one of the expansive beaches and stay a bit longer and enjoy one of those amazing Big Sur sunsets.

IF YOU GO

Southern Big Sur Area

Esalen

Esalen Institute | A Leading Center for Exploring Human Potential

Hearst Castle

Hearst Castle – A Museum Like No Other

Gorda

Gorda Springs Resort – Lodging, Restaurant, Gas, Groceries

Piedras Blancas Light Station

Piedras Blancas Light Station – HOME

Big Sur Area

Big Sur

Big Sur California, Lodging, Camping Tourism Information

Deetjen’s Big Sur

Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn (deetjens.com)

Henry Miller Library

The Henry Miller Library – Where Nothing Happens

Nepenthe Restaurant

Nepenthe

PHOTO CREDITS

Esalen – Esalen Cove featuring hot springs tubs

John Hofschroer – Lighthouse, Schoolhouse, Sea Otters

Lighthouse – Piedras Blancas Lighthouse

Schoolhouse – Charming schoolhouse in San Simeon State Park

Leslie Jones – Jade, Esalen Cove

Jade – Jade found in Jade Cove

Browse Available Tours of San Francisco Area: Big Sur, Carmel and Monterey

by Noreen Kompanik

Built in 1887, the Hotel del Coronado is a red-turreted Victorian architectural masterpiece and a famous National Historic Landmark. The quintessential legendary oceanfront beach hotel has hosted numerous U.S. presidents, foreign dignitaries, royalty and celebrities.

The captivating, elegant and timeless turn-of-the-century resort stands sentinel over a wide mile and a half of a spectacular pristine white-sand beach fronting the azure blue waters of the Pacific.

Though seaside resorts were commonplace along American coasts during the 19th century, few were as large or distinctive as “The Del,”—the moniker lovingly used by locals. And this historic hotel happens to be the second largest wooden structure in the United States.

Famous people have stayed at this magnificent resort like Thomas Edison, Charlie Chaplain, Babe Ruth, King Kalakua of Hawaii, Clark Gable, Vincent Price, Bette Davis and Katherine Hepburn.

Several Hollywood movies were filmed here —one of the most well-known, Some Like it Hot with Marilyn Monroe and Tony Curtis. Hollywood greats still flock to The Del, like Kevin Costner, Whoopi Goldberg, Brad Pitt, Madonna, Barbra Streisand and Oprah Winfrey.

L. Frank Baum, the writer and creator of the famous Wizard of Oz referred to Coronado Island as his “personal Oz.” He did much of his writing here and many believe The Del was the inspiration for the Emerald City.

This “Grand Lady of the Sea” is also reputed to be the setting of one of the most famous love stories of our time. It’s widely reported that Wallis Simpson, married to a U.S. naval officer at the time and living in Coronado, met her future husband at a grand banquet at the hotel in 1920, thereby changing the course of history.

That man happened to be Edward, Prince of Wales, who abdicated the British throne in order to marry the divorcée. Though she would never be queen, Wallis Simpson was granted the title of Duchess of Windsor and she and Edward lived a long and happy life together.

The Del was constructed at a time before San Diego had the raw materials or the manpower to support a structure of its type. Everything, including workers had to be brought in by rail from the Midwest. Miraculously, the Del was completed only 11 months after breaking ground. She opened in February, 1888 with an amazing 399 guest rooms and crowned the world’s largest resort.

Wealthy visitors traveled year-round from far and near to the iconic hotel because of San Diego’s exceptionally mild weather and 300-plus days of sunshine.

Surprisingly, the resorts lighting was provided by electricity—a novelty of its time. Other technologically-advanced amenities included an elevator, fire-alarm system and telephones in guest rooms. Even today, the antique elevator run by an operator in classical period attire carries guests to their appointed floors.

On New Year’s Day in 1937, during the Great Depression, the gambling ship SS Monte Carlo known for its “drinks, dolls and dice” was shipwrecked on a nearby beach. Fashionably-dressed hotel guests were photographed purposefully wading through wet sand and battering surf to scoop up anything they thought held value from the sunken ship.

During World War II, many West Coast resorts were requisitioned by the U.S. government for use as housing and hospitals. The Del, already housing many pilots training at nearby North Island Naval Air Station was never commandeered. The hotel manager convinced the Navy to abstain from taking over the hotel as it was already hosting families of service members going into harm’s way.

The hotel was designated as a wartime casualty station and later began a “Victory Garden Program” for the war effort planting vegetables, fruits and herbs to help reduce demand on the public food supply.

Throughout the years and even during tough financial times, The Del managed to continually upgrade its facilities and add cottages, rooms and villas on the property, while always retaining its charming Victorian character.

The magnificent beach resort has been grandly celebrating Christmas for 130 years with class and style. In 1904, the hotel introduced the world’s first electronically lit, outdoor living Christmas tree. The mighty conifer was 50-feet tall with 250 colored lights. Lighted lanterns also hung from its aromatic boughs.

Just strolling through The Del of the 21st century is an enchanting experience and a travel back in time. And there’s not a more beautiful time of year to drink in all her history and magnificent splendor than during the Christmas holidays when she is decked out to the nines.

Holidays at the Del this year are celebrating with the theme of “winter of whimsy, wishes and wonder.” Even the 21-foot inverted lobby tree decks the hall with fun and magical whimsy. Though there’s mixed opinion on what some visitors and locals see as a trendy millennial move, the inverted tree actually has its roots in the 7th century.

It’s widely believed that St. Boniface, an English Benedictine monk traveled to Germany to convert pagans and the triangular shaped tree was a way to introduce the Holy Trinity.

Others surmise the upside-down tree had a more practical meaning in the family home. Ornaments could be kept away from the hands of young children. Decorations made with cookies, wafers or berries would be out of reach of critters or pets.

Whatever the meaning, The Del’s two-story lobby tree has always been a highlight of the resort. Adorned with hundreds of twinkling lights and colorful ornaments, it’s always a highly-anticipated merry and bright tradition.

Thousands of glimmering white lights likewise cover the iconic red turrets of the main exterior building. Windsor Lawn is transformed into a spectacular outdoor ice rink providing an unforgettable “skating by the sea” experience. Skaters young and old with smiling faces glide to holiday music underneath swaying palms in a truly magical setting.

As one local resident said “Christmas without The Del isn’t Christmas.”

Today, old portraits of presidents, foreign dignitaries and stars still line the walls of its corridors and the Del continues to attract admiring guests—and always will.

This classy historic beachfront hotel has never forgotten its history. She is one of the grand old resorts of yesteryear, a not-to-be-missed American treasure with a storybook past.

If You Go:

The Hotel del Coronado is located just across the bay from downtown San Diego and only a 15-minute drive from the San Diego International Airport.

Address:
Hotel del Coronado
1500 Orange Ave.
Coronado, CA 92118

About the author:
Noreen Kompanik is a published freelance travel writer and photographer based in San Diego, California. She is a member of the ITWA and IFWTWA and shares many of her adventures, stories and photos on her website www.whatsinyoursuitcase.net and What’s In Your Suitcase? Facebook site.

All photos by Noreen Kompanik.

by Eva Barrows 

Menlo Park, CA has swallowed up a secret under the canopy of its tree-lined streets. A few boring brown historical marker signs on the main street, El Camino Real, weakly hint at the existence of something worth exploring in the adjoining neighborhood.

“How’d you hear about us?” The grandmother aged store clerk asked me as I perused the Artisan Shop.

“Online,” I’d said not thinking about the reasoning behind her question. My attention was on the hand-crafted fur embellished Eskimo doll and red-faced European style marionettes for sale.

“Good job,” she said as she worked at straightening some hanging jewelry.

My husband, an artist, was intrigued when I told him I’d found a hidden art guild he’d never heard of nestled in a Menlo Park neighborhood. He eagerly agreed to join me during a break in January rain storms to explore the Allied Arts Guild compound.

The Allied Arts Guild is a network of historic and architecturally interesting structures. Some buildings like the sheep shearing shed turned pottery studio and the barn which is now a woodworking shop are original 1800’s era ranch buildings. Other buildings were re-imagined or newly constructed in the Spanish Colonial style around 1930 when the Allied Arts Guild was formed.

Artwork created in the 1930s has seamlessly melded into the idyllic ambiance of the Guild’s grounds. The tiered courtyard fountain creates the soothing sound of trickling water. A colorful fresco was painted onto the recess of the music room’s exterior wall. Original 1930s pottery overflows with plant life. Examples of the pottery are arranged amongst each other to silently welcome visitors.

We poked our heads into art guild member shop windows to find out what types of art the members were busy creating. There was a closed quilt shop that featured piles of colorful folded stacked fabric. The pottery studio was open and featured Japanese style details such as bud vases attached to lengths of bamboo. My husband was disappointed to find the Portola Art Gallery was closed for the day. The gallery represents current local artists in a wide variety of art styles.

On weekends my husband and I usually move slow and thankfully we arrived just before the Blue Garden Café stopped serving lunch. I ordered a steak panini, and my hubby ordered a turkey and cheese panini. I was delighted by the tender and tasty meat and he was pleasantly surprised by apple slices in his sandwich! The meals were on the expensive side but we didn’t mind too much because we enjoyed every bite.

We walked the brick-lined garden path and noticed a few other couples exploring the unique grounds. A group of parents with young boisterous children came to play amongst the adobe style courtyards and pathways.

The day became increasingly gray and threatened rain. It was time to take shelter so we headed to the car. I watched as the parents slipped back out to the road, pulling children in wagons or chaperoning an unsteady tricycle. This recreation seeking group knew the secret of the Allied Arts Guild. To them the Guild was just a part of the neighborhood.

If You Go:

Allied Arts Guild:
Open Monday through Saturday – 10am-5pm
75 Arbor Road at Cambridge Avenue
Menlo Park, CA 94025
Phone – 650.322.2405

Where to Eat:

Blue Garden Cafe
P.F. Chang’s at Stanford Shopping Center
Jeffrey’s Hamburgers in Menlo Park

About the author:
Eva Barrows is a San Francisco Bay Area freelance writer. Eva writes about local places, people and events on her website www.evabarrows.com. She founded the online literary journal Imitation Fruit in 2007 and has enjoyed promoting fellow writers and artists ever since.

Photos by Eva Barrows

San Diego, California

by Amy Muschik 

Most people walking by stop to take a photo of her. She is impressive after all. Standing two stories above a 5-foot platform and elegantly wrapped in verandas on both levels, the Cosmopolitan Hotel in San Diego California is the quintessential stagecoach hotel.

Beneath the painstakingly restored clapboard, however, lies an even deeper past. Although restored to its 1880s appearance this building actually holds the stories and perhaps the spirits of two distinctly different time periods and two different prominent men who made their mark on the history of this state. The Cosmo, as she is affectionately known, has been called one of the most historically significant buildings in Californian history.

Usually in such a place, you may only view rooms from a doorway and snap a photo, so imagine my delight to find that for the same price as the Best Western a few blocks away, you can spend the night in this piece of living history.

Entering on the main level the walls are several feet thick and the temperature feels a few degrees cooler than outside. Standing here, you are actually in the original 1827 adobe home of Juan Bandini, a Peruvian born cattle rancher who built his family home here when these lands were still a part of Mexico.

At the desk I am greeted by a young man in a long tailed black coat, vest and hat. David Villegas is well versed on the history of the hotel and all things Bandini. We walk as he tells its story.

Mr. Bandini was known for both his huge parties, and his political involvement. Guests travelled long distances to attend his famous 3 day fandangos involving food, drinks, music and a favorite of Mr. Bandini’s, dancing. Though known as a gracious host, it was not all fun and games for Juan Bandini. Many important political meetings that shaped the history of California were held right here in the salon. Here, along with other prominent Californios, Bandini planned revolts against more than one Mexican ruler of the day. During the Mexican-American war Juan Bandini was an American supporter and this home was the headquarters for Commodore Stockton. It was here that scout Kit Carson was sent by General Kearny to request aid in the battle of San Pasqual.

In his later years, Juan Bandini’s fortunes dwindled and the Casa de Bandini fell into disrepair, but the purchase by Stagecoach owner, Albert Seeley and his wife in 1869 brought new life to the old Casa. The Seeley’s had a frame structure built right on top of the existing adobe, adding the second story with wrap around porch, creating a hotel to service Seeley’s growing stage coach business. This location again became the social hub of the town and one of the most important hotel-stage stops in Southern California. It is to these glory days that the current rooms have been restored.

Heading upstairs and walking along the expansive 2nd story veranda overlooking San Diego’s old town, it’s easy to daydream about what life might have been like in the hotels’ heyday. Close your eyes as the dry dust rises in small clouds from the dirt streets below. Listen for the clatter of the horses pulling the stagecoach up in front of the hotel to unload passengers, weary from the 35 hour passage from Los Angeles. Imagine the laughter of the saloon crowd, the bustle of the town, and the rustle of crinolines as women pass on their way to the haberdashery.

Opening the faux finished door from the veranda reveals a room filled with period furnishings. A globe shaped lamp, fashioned after the old kerosene style, sits on the table beside the dark, ornately carved bed. Wallpaper, in vintage patterns of leaves and vines form a backdrop for the thick red velvet curtains trimmed with large gold tassels. Double hung, wood framed windows on either side of the door look out onto the veranda and the town below. Each room has its own characters and features, like fireplaces or sitting rooms, though you will not find a TV in the room to distract from the authenticity of the place. The comfy cotton quilt seems like a perfect place to curl up with a book.

When Seeley built his grand stagecoach hotel with 20 guestrooms in 1869, it may surprise you to learn that it did not include indoor plumbing. Chamber pots and outhouses were the facilities of the day. Indoor plumbing was not added until 1930. Don’t worry though, although the 2010 restoration, overseen by teams of experts and historians, included the use of as much of the original materials as possible, the bathrooms are not original. The 20 rooms were converted into 10 unique guestrooms, accommodating guest bathrooms that include pull chain toilets, pedestal sinks, modern rain head showers and in some cases antique copper or wooden soaker tubs. It still has that 1880s feeling but with all the modern conveniences.

Before he returns to his station, I quiz David about the resident spirits. “Every day when I come in to work, I greet Mr. Bandini and Mr. Seeley. One day I experienced a glowing light orb of energy as it crossed the room and disappeared into Mr. Bandini’s portrait. I think he was greeting me back. I have also smelled cigar smoke in Mr. Bandini’s dining room, heard footsteps, and once I saw a man in a top hat on the upper balcony, when there wasn’t anyone up there.” Considering the number of visitors that have been here, it might not be too surprising if a few stayed on. A guest book rests on the night table to record any interesting experiences.

Leaving the hotel to explore, you are just steps from museums, interpretative displays artisans, shops, restaurants, and a theater. When night falls and the park closes, you are left with unique access to Old Town, to quietly contemplate what it was like for those early settlers of the Wild West.

The development of railroads brought an end to the Stagecoach business and the glory days of the Cosmopolitan hotel came to a close. Over the years the building served as a home, store, hotel, barbershop, restaurant, and an olive packing plant. From 2007 to 2010 a multi-million dollar renovation peeled back the layers of renovations from the 1930s and 1950s to reveal its 1880s splendor.

In the midst of Old Town San Diego State Historical Park, known as the birthplace of California, many tourists snap photos as they pass through these halls, on their way to dinner in the Hotel’s restaurant. Some come just to take a look at the 1880s saloon complete with gleaming dark wood bar, and whisky barrels. A few may even be searching to see if any of the resident ghosts are around. As a guest however you will have the privilege to lift the tasseled cord, marked for guests only, slipping upstairs to the guest rooms, to experience this vintage hotel first hand. This is a unique experience I recommend you don’t miss.

If You Go:

♦ The Cosmopolitan Hotel & Restaurant is Located in Old Town San Diego at 2660 Calhoun St, San Diego, CA 92110.
♦ The hotel has a restaurant that is open for lunch and dinner. Available for Weddings and special events.
♦ A delicious continental breakfast is included and served for hotel guests in the salon.
♦ There is so much to explore in Old Town, you should plan a whole day. The admission cost is by voluntary donation.

Ultimate Private San Diego Sightseeing Tour

About the author:
Amy Muschik is a freelance writer and photographer. She specializes in creating Google Streetview 360° virtual tours for businesses and tourism, and her stock photography work has appeared in such places as Readers Digest UK, Disney online, and The Tonight Show. Amy’s writing and photography has been published in Travel Post Monthly, Our Canada Magazine, Great Escape Publishing, TryBelleMag.com, and Appehtite.ca. Her love of travel and photography has led her to freelance writing, and literally to the end of the earth ‘Rounding the Horn’ in South America, sleeping in a room made of ice, and zip lining across a gorge in Ecuador. When not searching for something interesting off of the beaten path, Amy enjoys life at home in London Ontario with her husband and two Australian Shepherd dogs. www.imagerybyamy.com

All photos by Amy Muschik:
The Cosmopolitan Hotel at night
David Villegas provided a very informative tour
Jaun Bandini portrait in dining room
Veranda view overlooking historic Old Town
Room interior
Another room interior
Saloon with gleaming wood bar

Monterey, California

by Leslie Jones 

My mother tells her intriguing story of spending an entire evening dining with John Steinbeck at the family home up near Monterey in Pacific Grove, CA. A friend of hers invited her up to visit Uncle John for the weekend … little did my mother know who Uncle John was until they arrived. Walking through the garage, there were stacks of his books (in multiple languages) in every direction she turned.

If you head to Monterey’s historic Cannery Row in the middle of the week (preferably during the off-season), you might turn a bit nostalgic especially if you are a Steinbeck fan. Visuals from Cannery Row, Sweet Thursday and frequent mentions of Doc Rickett’s marine laboratory still remain. These are special characters and places I fell in love with a very long time ago.

Yes, it too has changed like any popular coastal community which draws large crowds due to its unique history, natural beauty and tourist-pleasing highlights including the Monterey Bay Aquarium. But if you stare out at sea and at the nearby cannery buildings in the early morning, there are still signs of those historic sardine canning days Steinbeck spoke of so eloquently.

It all begins outside of the world-famous Monterey Bay Aquarium and lingers for under a mile along what is known as the Steinbeck Country Walking Tour. Bronze statues, historic buildings depicted in his captivating novels, colorful murals and memorials are all within view.

One of the most popular stops along the way is Ed Rickett’s Lab (Doc’s Western Biological Laboratories) in Steinbeck’s Cannery Row and Sweet Thursday. He moved his marine biology business here from Pacific Grove in 1928. It was in this location where Steinbeck spent many an hour philosophizing with Ricketts. It also became a favorite meeting place for artists, intellectuals and other writers including Big Sur’s colorful Henry Miller over the years.

Two larger-than-life size murals based on photographs of the original “Mack and the boys” in his novel Cannery Row (who lived on the fringes of the canning district), are also nearby. Accompanied by quotations from the novel, they were created by local muralist John Cerney and lend a colorful charm to the entire area.

One of the most distinctive architectural artifacts still remaining from Cannery Row’s industrial era are a series of enclosed bridges called crossovers. Sixteen of these structures once carried cans packed with sardines across the street from the canning operation to warehouses near the Southern Pacific railroad tracks.

Clearly visible is the Monterey Canning Co. crossover which would have been a familiar sight to Ricketts and Steinbeck. Today, it functions as a pedestrian bridge linking shopping malls located in these former cannery and warehouse buildings.

While Steinbeck Plaza has been around for awhile, a new Cannery Row Monument pays tribute to notorious, famous and colorful characters where were vital to the area’s evolution. Author Steinbeck sits atop the rock and Ed Ricketts, at the bottom, are surrounded by others who are reminiscent of what Cannery Row was like as a bustling sardine canning district. Four other men huddled together represent entrepreneurs who revived Cannery Row after it had fallen into decline. This is a poignant reminder of the vast history this area represents.

California history is so intriguing and this authentic Steinbeck setting is one of the best reminders of this historic era that you’ll find anywhere. Take your time, look beyond the shopping crowds and walk down quiet streets. You’ll feel revitalized by what you’ll discover and upon heading home, you’ll want to read Cannery Row all over again.

Monterey, Carmel and Big Sur Private Day Trip from San Francisco

1-Hour Monterey and Cannery Row Sea Car Tour

If You Go:

National Steinbeck Center, Salinas, CA and Pacific Grove Steinbeck Tour, Pacific Grove, CA.

About the author:
Born and raised along California’s picturesque Central Coast, Leslie has lived much of her life here and is endlessly intrigued with California history. As a published writer for over 25 years, she has written much about California’s historic past. John Steinbeck, Henry Miller and Jack Kerouac are among those who have heavily influenced her ongoing writing career.

All photos are by Leslie Jones or John Hofschroer.

by Troy Herrick

San Francisco never ceases to entertain. The city is diverse, exciting and cosmopolitan. No matter how many times you visit, there is always something new to see. But the city hasn’t always been this refined. Between 1849 and 1917, the city enjoyed a raucous reputation known as “the Barbary Coast” period. The Barbary Coast, the original red light district, acquired its name around 1860 from the coast of North Africa where Arab pirates attacked Mediterranean ships.

The Barbary Coast arose with the infusion of prospectors seeking their fortune in the California gold fields and the Comstock silver lode in Nevada. This boom-town was well-stocked with saloons, gambling halls, brothels and opium dens. Just about every vice known to man was made available to these “49ers” as a means of separating the men from their gold and silver. While these dens of iniquity are long-gone, you can still visit many of these former sites.

Labor was scarce as passengers and crew jumped ship to seek their fortune. This problem was alleviated with the practice of shanghaiing – signing up sailors by coercion. Prospective sailors, no experience required, were slipped a “Mickey Finn” (opium) in their drink then dropped down a trap door in the saloon floor. This may be where the expression “down the hatch” originated. Upon awakening, they would find themselves unwilling crew members on an outbound ship destined for a two year tour.

The Old Ship Saloon is the only remaining “shanghaiing” bar from the Barbary Coast era. At the front door, you find a decorative model ship hanging overhead. Inside you find a brown wooden ceiling and scenes of early “Frisco”, as the sailors called it, hanging on the wall. Seating myself in the corner, I ordered a pint of steam beer, a San Francisco tradition, and asked the waitress where the trap door was. She was reluctant to tell me. For the next 30 minutes, I gingerly sipped my beer and kept a watchful eye on the patrons who were seated around the bar. After finishing my beer without incident, I was informed that the trap door is only used when people don’t pay the bill.

Those who were not shanghaied often frequented the local dance halls. Exit the Old Ship Saloon and walk approximately three blocks to the Hippodrome. Now an art supply store, the sidewalls of the entrance are still graced with the original white bas-reliefs of dancing nude nymphs. Superficially this establishment catered to lonely men but it also housed a secret tunnel used for smuggling goods and people. Descend the stairs into the basement and face the wall at the front of building. In the far right corner you find the entrance to a now walled-off tunnel approximately 15 feet long with 10 foot high arched ceiling.

Lonely men seeking more intimate contact with the opposite sex could visit the brothels lining what are now known as Maiden Lane and Commercial Street. Maiden Lane brothels catered to Johns at the lower end of the socio-economic scale while the Commercial Street bordellos, staffed by French madams, served a more genteel clientele. Today visitors to Maiden Lane find that stores like Prada and Hermes have replaced the bawdy houses where women literally hung out of windows to beckon the Johns inside. Commercial Street (between Kearny and Grant Avenues) on the other hand is now a rather drab looking block at the edge of Chinatown.

A history of more vice follows in Chinatown’s Ross Alley (“the Street of the Gamblers”). Walking along, you find many of the doors in the alleyway covered by metal gates. Any one of these doorways potentially leads to a former gambling or opium den. While nothing from this time is clearly visible, it is not difficult to imagine men and women sprawled out in a drowsy or completely overcome condition. While you proceed through the alley, stop by the Golden Gate Fortune Cookies factory for a free sample and see how that product is made.

The raucous Barbary Coast was not to last. By 1900, the original harbor-front was enclosed behind a seawall thereby changing the landscape along the waterfront. Visitors should note that the Transamerica Pyramid now sits on the former shoreline. The 1906 earthquake and subsequent fire leveled many of the drinking and dancing establishments; and a number of laws were passed which forced many of the vices underground.

Those wishing to view some of the vessels that plied the waters around San Francisco during the Barbary Coast period should visit the San Francisco Maritime Museum and the Hyde Street Pier. The main attraction is the sailing ship Balclutha with its square rigged masts. While this is not one of the schooners that employed shanghaied sailors, it evokes an earlier time when unfurled sails and a gust of wind signified the start of a long sea voyage.

When you complete your visit to the maritime museum, take the short walk up the street to the Buena Vista Café for an Irish Coffee. Sip your drink slowly and savor every taste as this is not something that should go “down the hatch”.

The Real San Francisco Chinatown Food Tour

If You Go:

♦ The Old Ship Saloon is located at 298 Pacific Avenue.
♦ The Hippodrome is located at 555 Pacific Avenue.
♦Maiden Lane (known as Morton Street during the Barbary Coast era) is a small street just off the east side of Union Square.
♦The Golden Gate Fortune Cookies factory is at 56 Ross Alley in Chinatown.
♦The SF Maritime Museum is at 499 Jefferson Street near Fisherman’s Wharf. The Hyde Street Pier is across the street from the Maritime Museum. Admission to the boats is $5.
♦The Buena Vista Café is at 2765 Hyde Street at Beach Street.
♦For more information about San Francisco, visit www.plan-a-dream-trip.com/san-francisco.htm
♦Plan your vacation at: www.plan-a-dream-trip.com www.plan-a-dream-trip.com

San Francisco Chinatown Ghost Walking Tour

About the author:
Troy Herrick, a freelance travel writer, has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. His articles have appeared in Live Life Travel, International Living, Offbeat Travel and Travels Thru History Magazines. He also penned the travel planning e-book entitled ”Turn Your Dream Vacation into Reality: A Game Plan for Seeing the World the Way You Want to See It” based on his own travel experiences over the years.

Photo credits:
All photos are by Diane Gagnon, a freelance photographer who has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. Her photographs have accompanied Troy Herrick’s articles in Live Life Travel, Offbeat Travel and Travel Thru History magazines:
Entrance to The Hippodrome
Maiden Lane
The Old Ship Saloon
Ross Alley
Sailing Ship Balclutha

I’ll be the first to admit that I have absolutely no musical talent when it comes to playing an instrument or singing a tune. In fact, back when I was in junior high school and an eager member of the church choir, I was given a hard dose of reality when the choir director asked if I might just mouth the hymnal words rather than voice them. I guess my voice just didn’t blend with all the angelic pipes around me. Not a problem as I was well aware that musical genes were lacking in all members of my immediate family. Nothing personal.

But don’t make the mistake that the lack of acoustic talent means you can’t appreciate good music as that is simply not the case. So, even though I don’t read music, nor have perfect pitch or an ear for subtle octave differences; nevertheless, I appreciate music of all genres. From country to classical, from the harp to the bass guitar, well…I love them all.

So, when I found out that the Museum of Making Music was about a stone’s throw from Legoland California Resort & Sea Life Aquarium in Carlsbad, I decided to make some time and check out the story on making music. A hidden jewel, it’s a treasure trove of a century of musical instruments and innovations that shaped American popular music.

It’s located in what looks like a modern business park, and I was not sure where the actual museum was hidden, so I just trusted my GPS. It actually worked this time. What was also nice was that parking is free. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday, from 10 AM until 5 PM, except for major holidays. As you walk inside, a gift shop will be on your right and the reception desk straight ahead. Head for the reception desk and make sure to ask for a group tour of about an hour: it is well worth the expertise. Admission for adults is $8 and includes the docent tour with discounts available for military, students, and seniors.

My guide explains that the museum consists of five galleries that span a century of American musical genres, innovations, and musical instruments and devices. He adds that the focus is on connections between people, instruments, and making music, with each gallery featuring a “breakthrough” instrument – an instrument that changed the course of future music. Oftentimes, the artifact and the current version are displayed alongside a modern version you can play. The interactive areas were great and let you try your musical genius on a variety of instruments, including drums. I found out, and not surprisingly so, that I still have no musical genes or talent, but it didn’t dampen my joy seeing, hearing, and playing through the notes, or perhaps I should say my musical cacophony.

The galleries include:
1890-1909 – America’s Music Industry Comes of Age
1910-1929 – A Long Boom Before the Bust
1930-1949 – The We’ll Try Anything Years
1950-1969 – The Baby Boom Sparks Dynamic Growth
1970 – 1989 – Conglomerates Retire / Technology Inspires

Along the way, I learned about someone I had never heard of as revolutionizing studio drumming. In the 1960’s, Hal Blaine developed a signature drum beat that made him quite popular with producers and songwriters. To keep up with the demand, he used a cartage company to transport his customized drums and hardware to meet the demands of live and studio performances. Songs like Elvis Presley’s “Return to Sender” and Frank Sinatra’s “Strangers in the Night” were recorded on the Hal Blaine Custom Drum Kit.

My favorite exhibit was near the end and focused on international music. With an interactive global map, you can discover what special musical instruments influenced different countries around the world, from Africa and Australia to Russia, Brazil, and Poland. At this point, I only had five minutes left, so I was rushed. However, I would definitely come back for this exhibit alone.

As a non-musician, I whipped through the museum in under an hour and definitely wanted more time. My recommendation is to allow at least 1-2 hours. More if you want to explore the gift shop at the end of your tour.

LEGOLAND® California

If You Go:

The Museum of Making Music
5790 Armada Drive
Carlsbad, CA 92008

About the author:
Karin Leperi is an award winning writer and photographer with bylines in over 75 publications that include print, broadcast, and internet media. A gypsy at heart who particularly enjoys bucket-list experiences, she has traveled to 80 countries and is still counting. Specialties include travel, culture, cuisine, nature, adventure and lifestyle. Her photo website is: www.travelprism.com

All photos are by Karin Leperi.

by Gregg LaLiberte

If you have ever wanted to visit an island off the coast of California, and Hawaii is just too far (and perhaps not in the budget), Santa Catalina Island is an ideal second choice.

Discovered in 1542 by Portuguese explorer Juan Rodgriguez Cabrillo, who named it San Salvador, it was renamed 60 years later by Spaniard Sebastian Vizcaino for Saint Catherine, and Santa Catalina it remains. It has been in private ownership several times in its history. Originally the home of the Tongva Indians, who lived off the abundant fish and seal reserves, it was occupied by a wide group of Europeans and private owners in the last several hundred years before being taken over by a succession of American entrepreneurs, all of whom had dreams of developing the island. None succeeded.

The most famous recent owner was William Wrigley, the chewing gum magnate, who bought a controlling share in the island in 1919. He brought the Chicago Cubs, the baseball team he owned, to Catalina for spring training every year from 1921 to 1951. The estate he built to overlook the sea and the harbor of Avalon is still owned by his family.

The island is now operated by the Santa Catalina Conservancy. The county of Los Angeles provides administration, including firefighters (who are barged over from the mainland when needed; the local force is voluntary), and police (which are hardly required, according to locals, because crime on the island is seldom a problem due to the lack of escape routes).

A very popular vacation spot in the summer months, Catalina is 22 miles off the coast and is accessible by three ferry systems operating from five Southern California towns: Long Beach, Dana Point, Marina del Rey, San Pedro and Newport Beach. For those in a rush to cut the travel time from 75 minutes to 20, a helicopter service leaves from Long Beach and San Pedro. If you do opt for the chopper ride, you will miss a very enjoyable trip on the ferry, which affords a great view of the Long Beach skyline as well as the Queen Mary – the ocean liner that was purchased from the British in 1967. Keep a lookout for whales and dolphins, which live in the area but don’t stay around long for photo ops. I caught a glimpse of a school of dolphins, but by the time I got my camera pointed in the right direction all I ended up with was a photo of disturbed waves.

My wife and I, her sister and a friend, booked a package deal in Avalon which included a night’s stay at the Casa Mariquita Hotel on Metropole Avenue and two ferry tickets from Long Beach. This saved us about $20 a couple over booking them separately. Note that when you’re doing your online research to make sure the hotel has a deal with a ferry company leaving from a location convenient for you; they don’t all. Long Beach is closest to Los Angeles.

Avalon, permanent population about 3,700, is the main town on the island and where most of the action is. There are taxis and golf carts to take you to your destination, but unless you’re booked at one of the more exotic hotels at the far edge of town, you can walk. It took us perhaps a half-hour to get from the docks to our hotel – and that was with plenty of sightseeing along the way. We could have done it half that time without stopping.

A note on vehicular transportation: Full-size automobiles are strictly limited, so most of the locals use golf carts, although the majority seem to run on gasoline rather than electricity — which is a bit of a contradiction to California’s reputation for green power.

There is a good selection of hotels, as befits an island almost entirely geared to tourism. Our one-night stay at the Casa Mariquita was $175 and represented the lower to mid level what you might expect to pay. It was entirely satisfactory. There is no dining room, but walking to any of the many eateries down the street just adds to the experience.

Remember that Catalina Island is mainly a spring through fall destination. If you’re brave enough to go in the winter you can find some attractive discounts. But check – not all hotels stay open.

There is the usual assortment of gift shops and restaurants on Pebbly Beach Road, the main drag which runs along the ocean front and separates the beach from the town proper. A number of side streets run up the mountainside, the first few blocks of which have stores and restaurants. Anything beyond that is housing for the locals who work in the area. (If you’re thinking Avalon would be a great place to live, bear in mind that a two-bedroom cottage will cost you in the neighborhood of a half-million bucks.)

A wide assortment of tours are available. You can see the town of Avalon, the entire island, or go on a semi-submersible for a good look at what goes on under the sea. There are several tour operators. We took one of Avalon and the surrounding area that was well worth the $22 plus tax as we learned things that we never would have by ourselves, and brought us high above the town for spectacular views of the harbour. That price also included admission to the Museum, which saved us $5.00 each.

Our tour finished off at the Casino, built in 1929 by William Wrigley and is a splendid example of art deco architecture. By far the most recognizable landmark on the island, it is a ballroom, movie theatre and museum – but a casino only in the original sense of the Italian word: a meeting place. There isn’t a slot machine to be found.

The museum was hosting an exhibit on Marilyn Monroe while we were there. The then Norma Jean spent the first year of her married life on Catalina Island while her husband, Jim Dougherty, was training for the Merchant Marine in 1943. Forensic detective work, largely based on her letters home, suggest that the newlyweds lived in an apartment on Metropole Avenue, but it can’t be proven conclusively – another twist to the Marilyn legend.

Past the Casino, past the Tuna Club (the oldest sport fishing club in North America, founded 1898), the path continues to wind along the rocky ocean shore to what might be called a “suburb” of Avalon, Descanso Beach, which seems to cater to a younger crowd than the main town with lots of swimming, snorkeling, and kayaking. There is a large restaurant (the Descanso Beach Club) and plenty of boutiques selling beach wear and souvenirs. The area is only open during the tourist season, from mid-April to mid-October.

The inland part of the island is mountainous, dry and very sparsely inhabited. A herd of 150 wild bison roam in certain parts of the interior, the result of being brought from the mainland for a Zane Grey western movie shoot in 1924. The logistics required to get them back to their original homes was deemed not worth the time or trouble, so they got to stay on Catalina. They seem to like it. Other wildlife, both native and introduced, includes deer, antelope, wild turkey and fox.

There is a series of zip lines totaling nearly 4,000 feet (1.2 km) outside of Avalon that connects one mountain peak to another and provides stunning views of the ocean. At least I am assuming so; neither I nor any member of our party felt adventurous enough to try. If you are, make a reservation. It costs $109.00, but there are discounts available.

The weather in the summer is typical Southern California: Hot and sunny, low humidity, cool breezes. The locals advised us it “gets cool at night”, but that meant a dip into the high teens Celsius (mid 60s Fahrenheit); what a northerner calls “refreshing”.

The only other town on the island, Two Harbors, is on the far west end of the island and is home to 300 or so locals. This is where Natalie Wood died in a boating accident in 1981. (The case was recently re-opened by the Los Angeles coroner’s office but re-dismissed for lack of new evidence.)

All in all, Catalina Island is a wonderful place to visit – for a weekend or longer, offering a wide variety of activities as well as a unique aspect of Southern California quite unlike any other.

Catalina Island Day Trip from Anaheim or Los Angeles with Optional Upgrades

If You Go:

♦ Catalina Island Chamber of Commerce — www.catalinachamber.com
♦ Catalina Express ferry — www.catalinaexpress.com
♦ Catalina Island Museum — www.catalinamuseum.org
♦ The Tuna Club — www.tunaclub.com
♦ Casa Mariquita Hotel — www.casamariquitahotel.com

About the author:
Born and raised in Montreal, Gregg LaLiberte is a freelance writer and photographer now living in Pickering, Ontario with his wife Gracelyn. He has traveled throughout North America, Europe and the Caribbean and looks forward to seeing much more of the world in the days to come.

All photos are by Gregg LaLiberte.

California

by W. Ruth Kozak

Santa Barbara California is a city of white-washed Spanish style buildings with red tile roofs tucked between the mountains and sea. The palm-lined streets and long stretch of white sandy beach give it an exotic allure. There were no trees here when the Spanish came; no palms lining the beaches and boulevards, no wooded hillsides. It was simply a barren swath of coastline occupied by the Chumash people who were hunters and gatherers oriented to the sea.

On this sunny afternoon I have a special destination in mind: a visit to the Old Mission Santa Barbara to discover the city’s past. I hop onto a tourist trolley down by the Presidio. On the way through the picturesque streets, the handsome driver tells us that he’s a descendant of the Chumash Indians who occupied this land long before the arrival of the Spaniards. In 1602 a Spanish explorer named Sebastian Vizcaino sailed up the channel between the coast and Channel Islands, and claimed the land in the name of the king of Spain. He gave it the name “Santa Barbara” because it was the Saint’s Feast day.

The tour bus passes by various historical buildings in the old town and heads up the winding road. On the outskirts, a majestic building crowns the hillside, glowing like an opal in the bright California sun. This is the Queen Mission, the tenth founded by Franscisan Padre Junipero Serra, established December 4, 1786.

Disembarking from the trolley I stand in awe as I observe the impressive building with its twin bell towers and the imposing architecture that combines Moorish, Mexican, Chumash Indian and Spanish design.

In the mosaic-paved entryway a Moorish fountain dating back two hundred years burbles with a spray of water. The large basin in front is the lavandaria where Chumash women washed their clothes. The crude lions head at the front of the lavandaria was carved by a Chumash artisan. Nearby is a botanical garden dedicated to native plants used by the Chumash people.

I set off on a self-guided tour. Inside, the small, dark rooms contain a colonial art collection of the baroque or neoclassical eras, imported from Mexico and South America that demonstrate the life of the Franciscan monks and the pioneers who lived there alongside the Chumash Indians. Three stone statues depict St. Barbara and the Virtues, carved by a mission Indian who used pictures in books as a guide.

Over time the original buildings were damaged or destroyed by earthquakes. The present friary was restored then later built after another quake in 1927. The church represents an amazing engineering achievement combining the efforts of the Chumash, Spanish and Mexican artisans. I tour the rooms where the missionaries slept, the kitchen where a meager menu is shown: little more than beans and rice. In the chapel room are displays of skills taught there including candlemaking, pottery, weaving and ironwork. Galleons from Manila and China clippers brought Asian culture to the area and some of this reflects in the artifacts and embroidered silk vestments displayed in the chapel museum. The church itself is decorated with Mexican art, some 200 years old.

Passing under a low doorway decorated with skulls I enter the mission cemetery where Santa Barbara‘s culturally diverse early settlers are buried along with Chumash Indians. When the Presidio was formed in 1783 the Spanish soldiers were of varied ethnic origins including Mexican Indians, Sephardic Jews and Africans. The heritage of Santa Barbara is reflected in the names and backgrounds of those buried there.

In the tranquil Mission garden I pause and imagine what life for the Chumash people was like back then. This garden was once a work area where many of them learned trades. Their workshops and living quarters were located in the surrounding quadrangle of buildings. Today many descendants of the Chumash, such as the driver of the tour trolley, still live in Santa Barbara. Fortunately their customs didn’t die out and today local native communities provide support for the preservation of their ancient culture.

The Mission’s original purpose was the Christianization of the Chumash but once Spain lost California to Mexico in 1822, it was secularized although missionaries were allowed to conduct services. Eventually it was returned to the Catholic Church and used as a school and seminary. Today it is used by the Parish of Santa Barbara and stands as a monument to the cultural diversity of California’s heritage.

Santa Barbara Wine Lovers Tour

If You Go:

♦ www.sbmission.org
Mass celebrated daily 9 – 5; Sunday 7.30,9 and 10 a.m. and noon.
Admission $4. adults.
2201 Laguna St. Santa Barbara CA
Phone: 805-682-4713

♦ Santa Barbara Trolley Tours
www.sbtrolley.com
805-965-0353

About the author:
Ruth is a travel and historical fiction writer and one of her favorite North American destinations is California. On a visit to attend her grandson’s graduation from the Santa Barbara University, she made this fascinating visit to the old mission of Santa Barbara.

All photos are by W. Ruth Kozak.

Santa Ana, California

by Debra Young

Sometimes you don’t have to go far to find yourself in another time, almost in another world. Last July, I viewed the Secrets of the Silk Road Exhibition at the Bowers Museum in Santa Ana, California and stepped 3800 years into the past to the days of life along the Silk Road. Yak, horse and camel caravans carried silk, salt, silver, gold, jade, lapis lazuli, brass, copper, medicines, wool, and more to the caravanserai, the market towns and trade cities with fabulously exotic names — Lanzhou, Koko-Nor, Charklick, Khotan, Yarkana, Yangi-hissar, Kashgar, Aksu, Kucha, Lop Nor. I was reminded that our world exists through many incarnations, the rise and fall of cultures and civilizations and people.

The Silk Road was not a single route, but many, a web of roads running from the Caspian Sea in the west to Chang’an, the Tang capital of eighth-century China, in the east, traversing the vast regions of Central Asia, looping over mountains and skirting deserts. On these routes journeyed merchants, monks, mercenaries, armies, and later, when the Silk Road had become an historical legend, explorers and archaeologists, drawn by stories of ruins and lost kingdoms buried in the sands. Among those lost places along the Silk Road are the cities and towns of the Tarim Basin, a region of the arid and inhospitable Taklamakan Desert in northwestern China, where once abided a Bronze Age people of European origin whose mummified bodies and the beautifully crafted objects of their daily lives have been nearly perfectly preserved by the arid conditions of the desert environment.

The Secrets of the Silk Road exhibit presented a hundred and fifty objects excavated from tombs of the Tarim Basin mummies along with two remarkable mummies–“The Beauty of Xiaohe” and that of a baby. A third mummy, too fragile for the rigors of travel, known as Yingpan Man, believed to be a rich Sogdian trader, was represented by a layout of his funeral mask, white with a golden diadem, and his sumptuous clothing, an elaborately patterned red and gold wool caftan, dark brown pants in an ornately embroidered diamond pattern, and gold-ornamented boots. Considering his sumptuous burial clothing, Yingpan Man was held in high regard and was no doubt a man who loved and could well afford the finest things in life.

The gem of the exhibit was “The Beauty of Xiaohe,” a well-preserved mummy of a Caucasian woman, serenely at rest through the centuries in her boat-shaped coffin, wrapped in a wool coat, fur boots on her feet, her brown hair showing from beneath the rounded brim of her fur hat, lashes fringing her sunken eyes, every inch of her a marvel preserved by the desert sands.

As I contemplated each artifact of the ancient past, those colorful silk brocades and damasks imprinted with elegant floral designs, a pair of shoes made for a girl, cream yellow with tiny writing woven in a delicate arabesque bestowing blessings on the wearer, horse blankets of ornately worked wool, meticulously decorated game boxes, gold jewelry embedded with rubies, agates, and lapis lazuli, I imagined the hands that might have held these things at one time, the voices that might have spoken of them in the extinct Tocharian language of the Tarim Basin people, and I considered the importance we now give to these artifacts, the ordinary objects of daily life long ago because they connect us in an unbroken thread of lives lived through time.

Among the treasures on display was a suit made as a gift for a Sogdian merchant’s young grandson, described by Susan Whitfield in “Life Along the Silk Road,” as being “a traditional Sogdian suit…a short jacket with narrow sleeves, a mandarin collar and front, central fastenings, flared slightly from the waist. The outer silk woven in blue, yellow, green, red and white with a pattern of paired facing ducks inside roundels, a typical Sogdian pattern, and a brown Chinese damask with a large-scale floral pattern for the jacket lining and trousers.” The merchant also ordered a pair of matching boots. Imagine his grandson’s delight when Grandfather returned home from his long journey bearing such finery.

I was touched by the mummy of the baby, gauged to be less than ten months old, swaddled in wool tied with red and blue cords, small flat blue stones over his eyes, and buried with a baby bottle made of a goat’s bladder. There was a fabulous gold mask of a man’s face rimmed with rubies, and excavated from the tomb of a noble couple was a figurine of a lovely dancer made of wood, silk, and clay. Her arms were made from cancelled pawn tickets. Old papers were often recycled as material for burial objects. One item that I found quite intriguing was a pair of delicately pierced eye covers, similar to sunglasses, used to shield the eyes of the dead.

There was food. Yes there was, preserved as if freeze-dried. The harsh cold of the Taklamakan Desert in winter and the heat and aridity of its summers had perfectly dehydrated pale pastries, tiny purse-sized dumplings and braided fried dough twists.

The Bowers Museum organized and debuted the Secrets of the Silk Road Exhibition, the historic, landmark tour of the artifacts from the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region encompassing the Tarim Basin in the vast northwestern reaches of China. From the Bowers Museum the exhibition traveled to the Houston Museum of Natural History and then to Philadelphia’s Penn Museum where the tour ended, and the exhibition’s artifacts returned home to China.

Some people see museums as boring places, warehouses for the collection of things from the past, things that might’ve been junk in its own time, dead things, dust catchers, mildly interesting perhaps but having no relevancy to our times. Museums preserve the living past, exhibits like the Secrets of the Silk Road Exhibition show us that life is eternal in its way, the artifacts of the past resonate with life and symbolize that old saying “Life goes on.” Indeed it does. Past and future meld in the present. Museums are not simply warehouses of things from the past, preserving the dead and what used to be, they are gateways through time, bringing the past to the present. To visit the Secrets of the Silk Road Exhibition was a spiritual journey into the vast country of past lives.

If You Go:

Bowers Museum, 2002 North Main Street
Santa Ana, CA 92706
Tel: (714) 567-3600

About the author:
Debra Young lives and writes in Long Beach, California, grew up traveling in Europe and the US, and has obsessive interests in ancient history, art, and literature. She’s published fiction and non-fiction, and invites you to visit her at her blog Pendrifter at dayya.wordpress.com.

Image credits:
Desert camel caravan: by pixelRaw from Pixabay
Zhang Qian: Unknown author / Public domain
Tang dynasty city film and television base: Sherbet / CC BY