When most people think of Croatia, they picture the summer crowds, packed beaches, and lively waterfronts. But for those who prefer peace, comfort, and authenticity, October paints a very different picture.

During these days, the air turns crisp, the Adriatic glistens under softer sunlight, and the streets become quieter. Hence, it becomes a perfect spot for travelers seeking a more intimate experience.

For a fact, October sits at that sweet spot between summer’s rush and winter’s chill. It’s the month when you can explore the scenic Split Rock Saddle in Croatia freely and experience the country as locals do.

That said, here’s why October stands out as the best time to visit Croatia. There you go!

1. Fewer Crowds and Effortless Travel

By October, the summer crowds have drifted away, leaving behind tranquil towns and open landscapes. Places like Dubrovnik, Split, and Rovinj feel different now. Of course, they are still full of life, but in a gentler, more local rhythm. You can walk along ancient city walls without waiting in line or stop at roadside cafés where locals gather to sip coffee and watch the world go by.

Traveling in Croatia in autumn also means the roads are clearer, and the entire experience feels more effortless. It’s a great time to take scenic drives through wine valleys, mountain passes, and coastal stretches that glow in warm, golden light.

The best part? For those who want to experience this kind of easygoing travel, reliable transfer options make a big difference. Some trusted companies like Taxi4Travel make it easy to explore the place at your own pace. Whether it’s a scenic drive to a vineyard, a coastal village, or a mountain retreat, having a trusted local driver lets you simply sit back and enjoy the journey.

Ultimately, during this time of the year, Croatia truly belongs to the explorers — the ones who love quiet beauty and authentic encounters.

2. Perfect Weather for Exploring and Adventure

October in Croatia brings mild and pleasant weather. It is warm enough for outdoor adventures yet cool enough for comfortable sightseeing. The coastal areas typically see temperatures between 18 and 22°C. On the flip side, inland regions offer that crisp fall breeze perfect for hikes and nature walks.

This balanced climate allows travelers to experience the best of both worlds. You can enjoy a beach picnic one day and explore national parks or historic fortresses the next. It’s also an excellent month for sailing, cycling, and hiking without the intense summer heat. Moreover, the Adriatic waters remain relatively warm in early October. So, if you’re feeling brave, a quick dip is still possible.

3. Lower Prices and Flexible Travel Plans

Another major advantage of visiting Croatia in October is affordability. Hotels, guesthouses, and villas often reduce their rates after the high season ends. That makes luxury stays surprisingly budget-friendly. Airfares also drop, and you’ll find plenty of last-minute deals for both accommodation and tours.

Beyond savings, flexibility becomes your best friend. You can linger longer in a favorite destination, change routes spontaneously, or stop at charming roadside cafés without worrying about crowds or bookings. Even top attractions like Plitvice Lakes or Krka National Park are easier to access, with shorter lines and quieter trails.

Since October is considered the shoulder season, you’ll find it much easier to experience Croatia your way.

4. A Taste of Croatia’s Autumn Culture and Harvest

October marks the beginning of Croatia’s harvest season, when vineyards, olive groves, and farms come alive with activity. Local festivals celebrate everything from wine and truffles to chestnuts and olive oil, giving travelers a chance to taste authentic Croatian culture.

In Istria, for example, truffle season peaks in October, and the air fills with the rich aroma of this prized delicacy. Meanwhile, along the Dalmatian coast, small fishing towns host food fairs where you can sample seasonal dishes prepared with freshly caught seafood and local produce.

It’s also a time when cultural life flourishes. Zagreb hosts film festivals, local art exhibitions, and music events, while coastal towns blend summer’s lingering charm with autumn’s cozy pace. This blend of flavor, culture, and tradition makes traveling in October feel like stepping into Croatia’s true identity — vibrant, welcoming, and proudly local.

Conclusion

October isn’t just another travel month in Croatia — it’s a revelation. It’s when the beaches belong to the locals again, the sunsets glow warmer, and the entire country slows down to breathe. Travelers get the best of both worlds: the lingering beauty of summer and the charm of autumn.

From peaceful road trips and affordable stays to rich cultural celebrations, the place proves that travel magic doesn’t always happen in peak season. Sometimes, it’s waiting quietly — on the open roads, along the quiet harbors, and in the soft golden light of autumn.

by Sonja Slijepcevic 

The motto of Rijeka’s Great Carnival “Die, but never give up” expresses the very essence and soul of the carnival. As someone once said, despite the long history, playful and satirical spirit of the carnival, it doesn’t show any slowing down, in fact it is growing in its popularity from season to season.

Today we know that the carnival existed in some form from before the 15th century. A document was found which dates back to 1449 and provides evidence that the City Council prohibited the covering the face with a mask during the carnival celebrations. The reason behind this decision was to prevent the open criticism and satirical expression of opinion towards the government and its officers.

In the present time, we mostly consider the carnival big fun for the whole family, with a lot of music, dancing with masks, songs, laughter and the mandatory special donuts (krafne) as one of the carnival symbols.

“Zvoncari” – bellmen (bell-ringers) from this region were included in the program of the Winter Olympics in Sarajevo in 1980 and started to boost the interest for the historic and cultural background of this tradition.

In 1982 the Rijeka Carnival was once again revived under the Rijeka’s Tourist Alliance and organized a “walk” with masks to bring something new into the city’s touristic offer. This was a spark which ignited a bigger fire for the region’s attractions and events that every year brings thousands of new visitors to enjoy this great event.

Nowadays, the Carnival also puts a new light on the traditional and cultural value of the event which shows the rich history of the area to the world.

The city of Rijeka is also accepted as a full member of the Federation of European Carnival Cities and the carnival was added to the list of the 500 most important events in Europe. In 2009, the Rijeka Tourist Board won the “Golden Tourist Heart” award, as the organizer of the best tourism event in south-eastern Europe.

Rijeka carnival is a unique mix of European urban carnival and mythological rural custom and tradition.

The carnival, actually, has its roots in pre-Christian, pagan beliefs that wearing masks, dancing and making noise, would scare off the bad spirits and welcome the spring and new life. This custom can’t be imagined without bells and horns. The bells noise would scare away any evil powers, while the horns were a symbol of fertility. Later, the burning of the “pust” (puppet) which symbolized everything bad in the past year, had been included in the rituals.

Zvoncari -bellmen or bell-ringers are well-known participants in the carnivals and processions in rural areas surrounding Rijeka. The groups of bell-ringers usually wear sheep skins (fur), large head masks with horns and big bells around their waist. Local people say that you have to be born into the “family” of Zvoncar-bellmen, you can’t just become a Zvoncar. This means that you must be a strong, tall man capable to “fight” and protect your home.

One group of regular bellmen participants in the Rijeka carnival parade is a group of Grobnik Dondolasi. The term “dondolas” has its origin in a word “dondolo” which means bell. The legend says that dondolasi have their origin from shepherds. The shepherds would wear frightening masks and sheep’s fur to scare away wild animals and bad spirits away from their livestock.

Today Dondolasi are the safe-keepers of old traditions and custom. They usually start their walks (procession) through the villages on the first Saturday in January.

At the carnival, every time when the procession stops, the bell ringers form a circle which is a defense formation in the open space. In the middle of the circle their flag is held high to symbolize the value of people, family, their country and bravery. The bell- ringers then rise their arms to show their determination to defend their values.

The Halubje bell-ringers from the nearby area also found their place on the UNESCO’s world list of non-material cultural heritage.

This year the Rijeka carnival celebration started on January 17th and the international closing parade as a crown of the celebration, will take place on March 3rd. The kids’ parade with masks took place on February 16 on a beautiful sunny Saturday. Thousands of kids, parents and spectators enjoyed music, colourful masks and children’s smiling faces.

For months, many kindergartens and schools have been preparing original masks to represent their cities or municipalities. This year we were able to see the little witches in red, smart little owls or busy bees, “dangerous”- looking wild animals from Africa or cute blue smurfs with white hats. One kindergarten group proudly dressed up as cabbage and beans, reminding everyone of the healthy organically grown local food.

Everyone has fun including the numerous tourists who often come from nearby countries to escape the cold winter days and surrender themselves to the warm sunny Mediterranean climate in Rijeka or the islands of Krk, Cres and Mali Losinj. Carnival and its parades add to the special experience of their stay.

The city of Rijeka opens its doors during this fun joyful time to tourists and locals alike with numerous concerts, exhibitions, happenings for all generations, as well as with a plethora of culinary specialities in restaurants, hotels and cafes. The city is alive with colours, imagination and as organizers say: “Come and be what you wish”!!!

If You Go:

1. Carnival usually starts in January, but the best time to join is during the February, when the major festival parades take place
2. The best way to get to Rijeka is to land at the Zagreb international airport and from there you have about 1.5- hour drive to Rijeka. Distance between Zagreb and Rijeka is around 150 km.
3. From Zagreb you may take regular coach bus a few times a day to Rijeka. The travel is about 2.5 hours. Bus is solid and safe transportation.
4. The highway Zagreb Rijeka is a toll route.
5. Another option is to fly to Pula (Istria Peninsula) and from Pula you have a bus to Rijeka. Rijeka-Pula distance is approx. 100km. By bus it’s about a two hour-drive, several buses daily.
6. Additional information about Rijeka Carnival – accommodations (hotels, B&B’s, apartment rentals), car rental etc. is available on internet.
7. English, German and Italian languages are widely used at the restaurants, hotels, tourist offices and agencies

7- or 9-Night Best of Croatia Tour: Zagreb, Split, Hvar, Korcula and Dubrovnik

Photo credits:
Rijeka carnival banner on parade – from Marina botel
Masks-symbols of carnivals- photo by Sonja Slijepcevic
Grobnik Dondolasi- photo by Rabko-CC BY-SA 3.0 free to share
Zejanski i Halubajski zvoncari – photo by: Roberta F.-CC BY-SA 3.0.-free to share
Little witches in red- photo by Sonja Slijepcevic

MAXI TOUR ZAGREB

 About the author:

Sonja Slijepcevic is a freelance travel writer and photographer, a member of the International Travel Writers and Photographers Alliance (ITWPA), who for years has been combining her love of travel, passion for photography and professional career in the project management field. She likes meeting people from different cultures and backgrounds, enjoys history and art, and likes to write about these experiences.

Some of her photography and articles have been published in different Canadian magazines and newspapers such as www.travelthruhistory.com  or  www.wanderousaffair.com.

She was born in the capital city of Croatia, Zagreb and has been living in Canada for 26 years.

One of the jewels on the Adriatic coast is Sibenik, a city nestled along the coastline and surrounded by fortresses. It is a spot unique for many things, not only as far as strategic significance is concerned, but historical effect too. Its view, together with its fortresses and the surrounding town testify of its tumultuous past and continuous resistance for centuries. But even with all the wars, Sibenik has remained firm in all its magnificence. I visited this city once a couple of years ago and it really stuck with me, its architecture, people, food and overall atmosphere of the town are really welcoming and it is a city you can easily feel like you are at home.

EARLY HISTORY

Unlike other Croatian cities on the Adriatic coast, which were established by Romans, Greeks and Illyrians, Sibenik was instituted by Croats. Created as an ancient encampment base, at the foot of St Michael’s Fortress, Sibenik was first cited in a document issued by the then Croatian ruler Peter Kresimir IV in 1066. However, it did not gain the status of a native town until the year 1290 when the Diocese of Sibenik was built.

LEADERSHIP STRIFE

Sibenik’s rule changed hands several times from the 12th to the 15th century. It was a battle of Croatian, Byzantine, Hungarian, Venetian, Herzegovinian and Bosnian reign until 1409 when Venice took the crown. However, there was a back and forth wrench for about three years before it was finally brought under the radar. In the 17th century, the Turks attempted their luck with the town but were not successful due to the strengthened fortresses. It was not until 1797 that the Venice fell, and the city was taken over by the Austrians.

ELECTRIC STRONGHOLD

Sibenik was the first Dalmatian town to have electricity thanks to an engineer Vjekoslav Meichner and the then mayor of the city. In 1895, they built the first transmission of generating and distributing alternating current. They say that the Forbes hydropower plant in USA’s Niagara Falls started operating in the year 1895, but the town got electricity almost a year later. So with that said, it can only be safe to assume that Sibenik got public electric lighting before any other capital in the world.

GENERAL FEATURES OF THE TOWN

Sibenik is a small town of about 35000 inhabitants. It is situated in a picturesque bay at the mouth of Krka, one of the most stunning rivers in Croatia which also encloses a national park that goes by the same name. What sets Sibenik apart, is its superbly manicured appearance featuring limitless sights that attract tourists from all corners of the world year on year.

The cathedral of St James is by far the most impressive achievement in the city and it defies comparison due to its excellent construction. This three-nave Gothic Renaissance is the brainchild of Juraj Dalamanatic and was built during a period of Turkish attacks. What you see today actually took more than a century to build. Interestingly, there are 72 stone heads around the cathedral which represent locals who did not care to give a hand in the construction of the cathedral. I read a lot about this cathedral before visiting it and my friends told me that I should definitely go and check this building out when I visited Sibenik so of course I did. It is a massive building that towers over you but every piece of it contains a different kind of beauty that you just cannot stop looking at. I spent a couple of hours there just enjoying the view and learning a bit about this marvelous building, completely mesmerized.

Neighboring the cathedral is the Duke’s palace, a major defensive system in the 13th and 14th century. What remains of it today is the part where the Duke stayed. The rest of it has been taken up by three beautiful museums- Archeological, Historical, and Ethnographic. On the wall, there is a coat of arms representing St Michael, the patron of the city.

In the center of the city, sits one of the most valuable buildings, Renaissance Town Hall built in the 16th century and the Bunari (four wells) dug to supply drinking water to the town during the 17th century. The wells were also another masterpiece created by Juraj Dalmatinac, the inventor of all important buildings in Sibenik. Today, the locality has been turned into a museum where various cultural manifestations are showcased.

REAL ESTATE

Real estate in Sibenik continues to be popular among foreign buyers. This is partly attributed to the fact that it is only an hour drive from the second largest city in Croatia-Split. Additionally, the prices are generally cheaper compared to other touristy towns in the country. Its real estate is in its prime, with deep-rooted stone houses, nestled in picturesque bay overlooking the cool azure waters, it gives you a nice historical feeling that you crave for. Due to its rich history this town is very popular with the tourists and visitors thus giving this city a big spotlight, that is one of many reasons why Sibenik is one of the most sought after cities for tourists plus due to its position it is close to everything you could possibly want.

Sibenik may be historically one of the richest cities in Croatia but modern Sibenik provides you with plenty of activities, sights, happenings and much more so visiting this town is a no-brainer. No matter how young or old you might be, in this city you can find something that will peak your interest. I visited this city when it was summer and there were a couple of festivals and fairs going on that were really unique and fun to be a part of. Go and see for yourself and enjoy everything this marvelous city has to offer.

If You Go:

♦ Cathedral St. James and Bunari are all accessible by bus or if you are an explorer who do not want to be limited by time and schedule just rent a car and go explore yourself.
♦ Since Sibenik is a small town you can pretty much go by bus everywhere.
♦ For National Park Krka you can book a bus.

Adriatic Coast Nature: Sibenik and Krka National Park Private Day from Split

About the author:
Alex Dragas enjoys researching and learning new things, eating foreign food and visiting places. Traveling and writing are his passion and he tries to combine those as much as he can.

Photographs are from Pixabay

History, Culture and Vibrancy

by Goky Brkic

With a population of more than two hundred thousand, Split is the second largest city in Croatia and the center of the coastal region of Dalmatia. Known for its culture, history, and tourist attractions, Split is the best Croatia has to offer.

History and Landmarks

The origins of the city can be traced all the way to the Romans. The Roman Emperor Diocletian, who lived in the 4th century AD, wanted to build himself a retirement mansion. He liked the area of today’s Split for its natural beauties and the warm Adriatic Sea, so he had it built there. In the centuries that followed, the city of Split grew around it, even after the Romans were long gone. The Palace and its surroundings eventually become the historical city core of Split (or Split Old Town), and nowadays the remains of the Diocletian’s Palace are among the best preserved remains of a Roman palace in the world. It was included in the register of the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage in 1979, and is even featured on Croatian banknotes. Built in an irregular rectangle, it was a combination of a luxurious villa and a military camp. Its walls and the center court, the Peristyle, now housing various vendors and souvenir shops, can be explored freely by tourists. However, a tour through its cellar includes a 5 Euro entrance fee.

Some Roman structures were modified to serve a different purpose, such as the unused Diocletian’s mausoleum, which was incorporated into the Cathedral of St. Domnius, another of the city’s landmarks. Consecrated in the 7th century AD, historians believe it’s the second oldest structure to serve as a Christian Cathedral. Even though some of its parts were constructed afterwards, such as the 12th century Bell Tower, the Cathedral remains an important example of Romanesque architecture in the Mediterranean.

Museums and Culture

A city of such interesting history has several museums and galleries in which parts of that history are exhibited. For instance, the Gallery of Fine Arts contains works spanning through six centuries, thus providing an overview of artistic movements in Split and Croatia. Founded in 1931, it houses one of the greatest exhibitions of paintings and sculpture by major Croatian artists, but dedicating space to contemporary art as well.

The Split City Museum features a collection of local cultural, artistic, and economic heritage, plus a collection of works by Emanuel Vidovic, the greatest Split-based painter of the 20th century. If you wish to learn more about the traditional Dalmatian lifestyle, visit the Ethnographic Museum, dedicated to promoting folk heritage and finding its new, contemporary applications.

The Adriatic Sea was crucial in shaping the lives and culture of the people of the city. Split’s inhabitants were always sailors and fishermen, and the exhibits of the Croatian Maritime Museum show that part of their lifestyle. Displaying marine equipment, weapons, navigation gear, ship models, uniforms and related artwork, it’s crucial in understanding the Dalmatian history and culture.

Cuisine

The cuisine of Split and the surrounding area is heavily based on seafood; fish, clams, oysters are usually boiled or grilled and served with vegetables or potato. Local delicacies include grilled sardines, the octopus salad, or the special kind of dry ham called “prsut”. Served with local wine, the food is usually not spicy, but some restaurants, drawing influences from other Mediterranean countries, started adding exotic spices to traditional Dalmatian dishes, giving them a new spin. For classic local delicacies search for a “konoba” sign, denoting a family-owned tavern specialized in authentic dishes. Of course, if you’re not a lover of seafood, there are plenty of fast food joints in every part of the city.

Nightlife

During the summer tourist season the local nightlife flourishes, especially along the Bacvice beachside, featuring several late-opening clubs and beach bars. But the city is big and diverse enough for anyone, with different clubs playing vastly different music. Electronic music lovers should proceed to the minimally decorated Quasimodo, Split’s top venue for DJ nights, or the Jungla (Hula Hula), playing house and techno music. Rock lovers should visit the Kocka or Judino Drvo, where local bands often perform. O’ Hara Music Club is popular among tourists, due to its attractive location at the Zenta waterfront; hosting great parties, it’s great for dancing and drinking. Also, a plethora of bars can be found at the main city promenade, locally known as Riva, which is a great place for slow walks among the rows of palm trees with the incredible view of turquoise Adriatic Sea.

Events

The city is especially vibrant and lively during the summer, and various events (exhibitions, concerts, plays) are held every day. The most well-known are the Mediterranean Film Festival (held in June), showcasing regional films at several local venues and the Split Summer Festival, consisting of open-air theater and various dance and music performances. Some parts of the program are even held in the Diocletian’s Palace.

The Palace is also the location of the annual Festival of Flowers (usually held in May), where exhibitors display their flower arrangements based on a particular theme. Visually stunning, it’s a must-visit if you’re in the city at that time. If you’re interested in Roman culture, you’ll be happy to hear that there’s a whole festival dedicated to it. The Days of Diocletian are usually held in late August, and the entire area of the Palace becomes a living monument to the Romans, featuring their cuisine, lifestyle, clothing and customs. Entertaining and educational at the same time, the Days of Diocletian are especially popular with kids.

The 7th of May is a date very important for the people of Split: that’s when the celebration of Split’s patron saint, Saint Domnius (“Sveti Duje” in Croatian) takes place. It’s an important local holiday and a feast day, with a procession, food, music and a carnival.

Private Tour: Split Day Trip from Dubrovnik

If You Go:

♦ The Croatian currency is Kuna (1 Euro = 7.55 Kuna, 1 US Dollar = 6.7 Kuna)

♦ Split has an international airport  some 25 kilometers west of the city. There are lines from and to major European cities, especially in the summer. Airport buses or taxi transfers will take you from the airport to the city center. Notice: bare in mind that buses can be overcrowded during main tourist season (June to September)

♦ Split is connected to Zagreb, the Croatian capital, with the A1 motorway. The road infrastructure is generally good and the trip takes around three and a half hours if you’re traveling by car.

♦ A good deal of Croatians speaks English quite well (Italian and German are spoken as well) and will be glad to help if you need anything. Police are accustomed to dealing with tourists and you can approach them if you have a problem or a question.

♦ The country joined the European Union in 2013, meaning that travelers from EU countries can enter the country visa-free with a passport or a national identity card. Nationals of other countries that can enter Croatia without a visa include the United States, Brazil, Japan, Australia, Argentina, Turkey, Canada and Chile.  Visitors from other countries may require a Visa to enter Croatia.

♦ If you decide to visit Split, you should also check the weather forecast at Croatia’s meteorological and hydrological service as well as Tourist Board of Split for more useful information.

About the author:
Goky Brkic is a passionate traveler and enthusiastic writer on topics that cover travels and exploration of new interesting places, cuisines and cultures around the world. He’s especially familiar with the region of Balkans and also enjoys wandering through coastal cities of the Mediterranean.

Photo credits:
Diocletians mausoleum, Split by Beyond silence / Public domain
Cathedral of Saint Domnius by by Beyond silence / Public domain
Split Gallery of Fine Arts by JoJan / CC BY
Dalmatinski Prsut by Haydn Blackey from Cardiff, Wales / CC BY-SA
Split city by DIREKTOR / Public domain
Diocletian palace by neufal54 from Pixabay

by Larry Zaletel

A people’s culture is defined not only by their traditions and values but also by their food and drink. Food brings people together especially when they gather around the dinner table.

Traveling across the globe, there is a variety of good food from various different nationalities and sampling food of different countries can be very rewarding. Although the food may be prepared differently in Europe, have an open mind and enjoy new flavors and sample the scrumptious delicacies.

Austria

Some of my personal favorite ethnic eats are in Austria. In Wels a small town in the Northwestern section of the country there is a local market which is very similar to the Westside Market in Cleveland, Ohio. A new building was recently constructed to house the vendors. On the outside of the market vendors sell various fresh fruits and vegetables etc. Nothing there is prepackaged. Inside the building the vendors provide various types of fresh food including meat, poultry, eggs, cheese and even schnapps (whiskey). My favorite vendor has barbecue roast chicken on a spit and as of late a new item lightly breaded chicken wings which go well with a stein (a traditional German beer tankard) of beer. Priced by the kilogram (2.2 pounds) US $3.00-$5.00.

Not too far from Wels is the small village of Marchtrenk, Austria. On Saturday morning, market day in the square, a white Mercedes truck (long before food trucks became popular in the United States) provides barbeque chicken to the many people lined up waiting to order. The truck is a mobile rotisserie converted to hold two rows of rotisserie chicken gently rotating. Each bank holds five rotisserie spits of chicken. Priced by the kilogram US $5:00.

Croatia

There are other taste treats to learn about and experience. Crossing from Slovenia into Croatia passing through village after village the signs for roast pork (svinjina) and lamb (jagnjetina grilled lamb both roasted on spit) began to appear. The local Gostionas (Restaurants, Bars) were preparing their grills for roasting. As luck would have it, we always seemed to miss many of these establishments. It might have been sheer luck and or just bad timing. We were either too early or too late for lunch or there was not a Gostiona located in the area where we were.

However luck was on our side one morning just a little before noon as we headed toward Zagreb our way to Slovenia. At the outskirts of a small village we came to an intersection in the road. I stopped to determine which direction to proceed as there were no road signs. My wife said, “Look to your left.” I glanced to the left and there on the spit were two suckling pigs roasting to perfection. I looked at my wife and said, “Lunch time.” The A-Frame sign in front of the Gostiona listed Odojak (suckling pig in Croatian).

Finally the timing was right. We sat outside under a covered porch after purchasing a kilogram of roast pork which included salad, bread and beer. Everything was tasty. My wife sampled the pork and I began to enjoy the additional treat of the lightly tanned hard crunchy pork skin that brought back a lot of fond memories. We washed everything down with Ozujsko beer and I believe that the beer in Europe is delicious whether you enjoy it in Austria, Slovenia, Croatia or Germany. It doesn’t matter it all tastes good. They have been brewing beer for 300-400 years and they have got it together US $15:00.

Having been in the former Yugoslavia a few times we learned over the years on what to look for when it comes to roast pork and lamb. Normally vendors and restaurateurs post signs advertising their wares along the road. Driving through Split on the Jadranska Magistrala along the coast toward Dubrovnik about lunch time we just could not find an establishment that had roast lamb or pork. Either we missed the signs or there just weren’t any. Finally we stopped at a local restaurant and we were given directions on where to find janjetina. Down the road and up the side of a sparsely covered mountain, we traveled higher and higher on the narrow pebbled road turning this way and that as the road curved back and forth along the side of the mountain, my cousin sitting in the back seat hanging firmly on to the hand strap fixed to the car roof. We drove on and on for over an hour. Finally we found it. The war had taken its toll. It was a bombed out building and on the side of the building a faded wooden sign advertised jagnjetina. My cousin started laughing hysterically!!! Someone was having a good laugh on us. Consequently we did not have roast pork or jagnjetina this day.

Bosnia & Herzegovina (BIH)

On another occasion we were traveling by bus from Sarajevo to Mostar we stopped in the town of Jablanica to view the local historical sights. We learned from the locals just on the outskirts about one kilometer south of Jablanica was the restaurant Zdrava Voda (Health Water). There on six roasting spits was lamb grilling on an open fire continuously throughout the day enough to quell the hunger for both the tourist traveling between Sarajevo and Mostar and the local population. The price was US $15.00 which included potatoes, salad, and bread. Jablanica is known for this mouth watering delicacy and that there are over 8 restaurants in the vicinity that serve it. www.zdravavoda.co.ba

We learned from a local butcher in Medjugorje that the Restaurant Udovice located in Sretnice, 88203 Krusevo has Roast Lamb. It is located about 7-10 kilometers from Medjugorje and about 9 kilometers from Mostar. www.udovice.ba. The restaurant has two barbeque pits with seven spits for roasting Janjetina outside in the front of the establishment. Price US $15.00 which included potatoes, salad, and bread.

In Sarajevo the restaurant Cevabdzinica Zeljo, on street Kundurdziluk 18, in the Bascarsija seems to be the favorite place for locals to enjoy a “healthy” meal of cevapcici with onions, sour cream and yogurt. Cevapcici is beef minced meat in a roll served with pita bread and priced under US $7.00. Other versions of this delicacy are made with ground lamb, veal, and pork.

Pizza is almost as much of a staple in the former Yugoslavia as it is in the United States. I noticed how popular it was when first visiting Slovenia. I was surprised that pizza appeared to be more readily available than local food.

Pizza is not made the same way as in the United States. The crust is somewhat thinner and the toppings and combinations are different although very tasty. Seafood including squid, shrimp is used and also sweet corn. Sausage is very popular and there are many different varieties. Each country has its own types of sausage therefore the assortment of tastes are endless. One of our favorites in Sarajevo was the restaurant café Pizzeria Oscar that provides pizza and spaghetti, price US $15.00-$25.00.

Sarajevo Cultural Walking Tour with Local Food Tasting

If You Go:

How to get there

There are no direct flights from the United States to Austria, Croatia, and Bosnia & Hercegovina. However air travelers can go to Frankfurt, Munich, Paris, or London for connecting airlines. Driving through Croatia from Rijeka toward Dubrovnik and points south is about a 3-4 hour drive. At present the new autobahn completed in 2005 ends at Ravca south of Split. Construction is ongoing and continuation of the highway to southernmost Dalmatia and Dubrovnik is scheduled to be complete sometime in the near future.

Where to stay

A Gostilna (Gasthaus in German) is a modest country inn serving home cooked meals. There is no hard and fast rule but many gostilna’s have sleeping arrangements and usually include breakfast in the morning. If there is a picture of a bed hanging out in front of the establishment then they have sleeping accommodations.

Besides hotels and Gostilna’s there are many bed & breakfast (sobes) that are common in Europe. There are signs along the roadsides advertising them. The local tourist bureaus usually have list of sobes with prices and further information. They are highly recommended as a delightful way to meet the people and make new friends. We have been very fortunate to find some very charming sobes in our travels. We are thus able to meet the people, get acquainted with those from other cultures and learn about them and their way of life.

Usually the price can be negotiated. Prices average about $45-$80 per night and they are much cheaper than hotels and normally include breakfast. We have stayed in sobes in Germany, Austria, Slovenia and Croatia and have revisited them on several occasions.

The Gostilna Pri Belokranjcu, Kandijska cesta 63, 8000 Novo Mesto, Slovenia is situated almost in the center of town across the street from the Renault factory and is close to two shopping malls. This family bed and breakfast has 28 rooms with double beds. The owners Branko and Mojca Vrbetic offers daily menus with home made bread and a local wine called Cvicek. Refrigerators and laundry services for extended guests are available. Slovenian, Serbian/Croatian, Russian, German, Italian and English are spoken. Tel 386 7 30 28 444, Price $60-$80 per night. Very good home cooked food. www.pribelokranjcu-vp.si

Boutique 36, price 67 Euro, . 71000 Sarajevo, Bosnia-Hercegovina, Safvet bega Basagica 36, www.hb36.ba

Zagreb Food & Wine Journey: Farmer’s market – Brunch – Boutique winery

Where to eat

Gostilna and Restaurant Ansenik, 4275 Begunje, Slovenia, Telephone 386 4 530 70 30, www.avsenik.com. This is a genteel family establishment that includes very good homemade Slovenian food, international cuisine, venison, fish and other seafood dishes. Additionally they offer both vegetarian and grilled dishes. Prices are moderate. There is a children’s playground, conference area, and dance-floor. There is music on Wednesdays and Fridays evenings in the multi purpose hall which seats 220 persons. Hours: Daily 10:00 AM-11:00 PM, Sunday: 10:00AM-9 PM, Monday: Closed.

Pizzeria & Spaghettarija Don Bobi, Kandijska Cesta 14, 8000 Novo Mesto, Slovenia. Tel 386 7 338 24 00, email don.bobi@siol.net. Extensive menu and moderately priced $8-$18. Complete with indoor and outdoor dining. This is one of our favorites. Very good pasta and pizza.

Gostilna Ancka, Delavska 18, 4208 Sencur, Slovenia is about a five minute ride from the Joze Pucnik Airport. Tel 386 4 251 52 00. They offer homemade Slovenian dishes, venison, freshwater fish, and vegetarian dishes. It is complete with indoor and outdoor dining that includes a huge terrace. It is a very nicely decorated restaurant with a friendly staff with over 35 years of experience. The food is freshly prepared and their style of ribs is very good. Prices are moderate.

Barhana, Dulagina Cikma 8, www.barhana.ba, in the Bascarsija, Sarajevo, Bosnia-Hercegovina. We visited it on a cold drizzly night and its good wholesome food of lamb Goulash and the local drink of Rakija (plum brandy) which took the chill out of our bones. Prices are moderate. 033 447 727.

Konoba Mediterano is located across from the Cathedral, Dubrovnik, Croatia. Types of food include risotto, pasta, seafood, and other Croatian favorites. Prices, moderate plus.

About the author:
Larry is a freelance travel writer, an avid and dedicated traveler, and recurring visitor to Europe, the Caribbean and Hawaii. He writes about the various people that he has met and places that he has visited during my travels. Larry is a regular contributor to Travel Thru History.

All photographs by Larry Zaletel:
Whole Chickens sold from a Truck, Marchtrenk, Austria
Chicken Stand at the market in Marchtrenk, Austria
Chicken Wings Marchtrenk, Austria
Lamb on a Spit, Pag, Croatia
Pizzeria Oscar in Sarajevo, Bosnia
Lamb on a Spit, Jablanica, Bosnia

Coming Back From Obscurity

by Wynne Crombie

Vis was christened Issa by 4th century BC Greek settlers. The town site and well-protected harbor of Vis, off the Croatian coast, was once the most powerful Greek colony in the Adriatic Sea, a city state with its own rulers and currency.

We were about to explore the interior. My husband, daughter and I had come to find the village of my Zitko ancestors, Jujeca … all ten dwellings of it.

Off limits to the world by Tito’s military, Vis’ lack of commercial development has kept it in a fairly pristine condition. But, that is about to change.

Our guide was Jurica Zitko, a community leader and paragliding instructor. Dimar, our driver, worked for the San Georgio Hotel where we were staying and just happened to have a Land Rover. Perfect!

Jurica and Dimar set out to take us to what they referred to as sights untouched by most tourists. Jurica began by reciting all the conquerors of Vis throughout the centuries: Turks, Italians, Greeks, Serbs…even the British. Now it’s back to being Croatian. The vestiges of each culture, he added, are the reasons Vis is so appealing.

As our Land Rover climbed the hills above Vis Town, we had a perfect view of Cold War bunkers nestled in several coves. Tito had used the island as a base for co-coordinating partisan military operations. Prior to that, the exiled Yugoslav government and the Allies used caves on the island as World War II bases.

Today, the simple sign, “Tito’s Cave”, at the entrance, announces his former presence. About two hundred steps bring you to Tito’s meeting rooms; another hundred will take you to his living quarters. . Now, all we saw of past military occupation were a few strands of barbed wire, bent over by winds and neglect.

As we rolled along off the main highway, (two 2-lane highways bisect Vis, connecting Vis town with Komiza), the road became decidedly bleaker. At one point, the Land Rover was pushing four-foot weeds out of our path. At the end, amidst wild thyme, rosemary and sage, was a missile launcher site left over from the Cold War – and a scrumptious panorama of the island Dimar brought the Land Rover to a halt amidst pine trees and crumbling walls.

No signs announced the remains of Fort St. George built by the British in 1813 to guard the harbor. After vanquishing Napoleon in 1815, they abandoned the Fort to the elements. Parts of it have crumbled, but most of it, including walls and cannons are still intact. We were the only people there. It seems commercialization has not yet taken hold.

Our attention then turned to the center of the island. Now, it is all vineyards, but during World War II, the British used it as an airfield. The pillars, with red and white stripes that used to mark the runway, can still be seen.

Julicka had inserted a stop at a local winery – a must he said. Marco Hrga, the owner, walked us through the process from grapes to bottles. Of course, nothing would do but a few samplings.

Wine production was halted during the communist era and vines were allowed to ruin. Now, there is great pride in new vineyards and wine is once more being produced.

And, just like Fort St. George, the remains of a 7th century church (St. Mary’s) were without identification or visitors. Only the pines kept it company. Next to it stood an abandoned farmhouse formerly occupied by the Allies.

The inland villages, are very tiny—stone houses with red tile roofs surrounded by vineyards, olive trees and cattle. The vines wind around the hillside and over stone walls. It is totally unspoiled. Life revolves around wine, olive harvests, fishing and local festivals. Wild herbs, such as thyme, rosemary and lavender are hardy perennials.

As the sun was setting, we reached Jujeca; a walking path took us the last few hundred yards. Julika was our interpreter when Antonio Zitko, age 87 said, “We are humbled you came all the way from America to visit us.” It was the end to a perfect day.

The next day, it was time to explore on foot. We couldn’t miss strolling over to the fifteenth century Franciscan Monastery on the narrow peninsula, Prirovo. My grandparents had been married in the church while great grandparents were buried in the surrounding churchyard. Walking among the gravesites is stepping through centuries. Communist stars on some graves showed that the old government still owns some property.

You cannot leave Vis without exploring The Archaeological Museum of Vis in Kut. The museum is housed in an Austrian fort built in 1842. Nineteenth century cannons still lay outside on the grass.

It contains incredible collections of two-thousand year old Greek and Roman artifacts.

I was immediately drawn to three large stone cisterns (used to store water) in the Museum’s courtyard. They stood adjacent to a large phythos (round earthen ware container) Divers had discovered the phythos, used for storage of agricultural goods, during a submarine survey in 1985. The sides had been pierced indicating that the phythos were used to store shells or other seafood.

In addition to savaged shipwrecks are prehistoric finds from the interior of the island. Many ancient graves were found on the site of the ancient (4th to 1st century B.C) Greek town of Issa… where Vis Town now stands. Since most of the graves were unplundered, many artifacts have been found in tact. The bronze coins go back to the 4th century B.C. and were mainly for local use.

But, it was the head of Artemis, the Virgin Goddess of the Hunt, in the museum itself, which first caught my attention. This 4th century bust sits in its own glass case where every angle can be observed. There are the whitish eyes, the smooth skin, and the wavy hair complete with ornamental headband. Her head, with the tiniest smile, is turned slightly to one side. Could she have been the Mona Lisa of her day?

This extensive collection features Greek and Roman pottery, jewelry, coins and sculpture. There are even some 6th century B.C. aryballos, or perfume bottles. Most of all, it gave us the opportunity to see a large collection of antiquity up close.

Our headquarters, the San Giorgio Hotel in Kut, was a twenty-minute walk from Vis Town. It was July. Yachts pulled up and its occupants dined al fresco on the decks. Tourists can have their pick… sailing, snorkeling, and swimming. Not to mention exploring nearby coves and caves. (Sunken ships from the 1866 War are a great draw, also, subs and an airplane or two) Incredibly the water is so blue, you can almost see to the bottom. All the beaches are rocky, but no one seems to mind.

The seniors here all seemed so….vital. Yet, smoking, drinking and sun exposure were so prevalent. When I asked about it, several locals told me the same thing. People do a lot of physical work and eat only what they need. In addition, generations of one family live together to provide emotional support.

A new twenty-four room hotel is being planned for Vis Town. Right now, Vis is unspoiled, but how long can it last?

Highlights of Island Vis archipelago daily excursion with lunch

If You Go:

♦ Croatia Airlines flies from most major European cities to Split. From Split there are frequent ferries to all the Croatian islands.
♦ Ferry from Split $7/one way (4.7 euro)
♦ Hydrofoil $16 one way. (11 euro)
♦ Dimar charged about $70/day.(45GBP) Jurica Zitko, a relative, came at no charge. (We found Dimar through the San Georgio Hotel in Kut.)
♦ Rental cars are available through the Ionios Agency in Vis Town (011-385-21-711-352)
♦ Croatian is the island’s language, but English, Italian and German are widely spoken.

About the author:
Wynne Crombie has a master’s degree in adult education and has been published in Travel and Leisure, Dallas Morning News Travel, Air Force Times, Travelthruhistory and Senior Living.

All photos are by Wynne Crombie:
Our Lady of Caves Church
Remnants of a British Fort (from War of 1812)
Allied Headquarter Building (WWII)
Our cousin Jurica Zitko and our driver Dimar
Relic of the Cold War
Village of Jujeca
Komiza Harbor

Ðakovo, Croatia

by Valeria Teo

Ðakovo’s biggest traditional festival in the summertime is the Ðakovacki Vezovi which literally means “Ðakovo Embroidery” because Slavonian embroidery is a well-known Croatian craft.

The 43-year old festival lasts for two weeks. Starting from mid June, people come to Ðakovo to enjoy the best of the Slavonian traditions – delicacies, wines, arts, music and horse breeding. The last day of the celebration, always a Sunday, attracts the largest crowd. The grand day in 2009 falls on July 5.

The Ðakovo Tourist Office says that the number of people in the town doubles in the beginning of July every year. The additional bus service we found on July 5 might be the first evidence of its truth. The second evidence came when our bus was moving slowly into the town center at 8:30. We saw cars from all over Croatia and neighboring countries. All these visitors were going to the same place as we were – the St. Peter’s Cathedral.

Pope John XXIII praised the Ðakovo’s landmark as “the most beautiful church between Venice and Istanbul.” We were impressed by the cathedral’s neo-Gothic-Romanesque style even without the Pope’s words. Before we had time to fully appreciate the magnificent cathedral, we had to join in the first program of the day.

The streets outside the St. Peter’s Cathedral were already filled with festive crowd. Once the cathedral bell tolled at 9:00, everybody got their cameras ready for the most colorful parade in Croatia. More than 2,000 people in their folk costumes were singing and dancing in the procession. Participants came from every part of Croatia, Macedonia , Bosnia, Serbia etc. The wedding carriage and horsemen at the end of the procession revived memories of the Slavonian past. Summer was once the time for fun, feast and fete in the Croatian countryside.

Religious practices have always been an integral part of all Croatian festivals. Ðakovacki Vezovi is no exception. Mass at the St. Peter’s Cathedral follows the parade.

We entered the church earlier to secure our seats. People were standing all around inside the colossal cathedral when the Mass started. Older people were in the majority. That did not come as a surprise as we had seldom met young people in most Sunday morning services.

I was likely to be the first Chinese receiving Holy Communion at the St. Peter’s Cathedral. Curious gaze followed me throughout the service. I could even tell from the children’s stare that they had never met any Chinese in their lives.

No Croatian festival is complete without an open-air market. We went slowly for our treasure hunt in the Ðakovo bazaar after the Mass.. Embroidery and other traditional arts and crafts were attractive to most visitors. We bought a bag with Slavonian embroidery at a bargain price. However, stall men were less willing to cut price later when more guests were arriving. The basic principle of supply and demand held true even in this rustic town.

The bazaar often smelt of savory local food. The aroma of roast lamb was the most inviting. It came from an old-fashioned rotating spit outside a restaurant. A man was roasting three full-sized lambs when we joined the queue to get a bite of the tender meat. It turned out to be a real treat!

The highlight in the afternoon was equestrian competition and performance held in the hippodrome, showcasing the Lipizzaner breed. Ðakovo’s first official stud farm was founded more than 500 years ago, long before the Lipizzaner horses came to Ðakovo in 1806. But Ðakovo soon shifted exclusively to the breeding of these noble horses. The Lipizzaner breed has made Ðakovo famous beyond the Croatian borders for more than 200 years.

The Lipizzaner breed is interesting because they were not born white. Most Lipizzans were born dark—usually bay or black—and become lighter each year. The graying process is complete at between six and ten years of age. Adult Lipizzans are in fact gray horses with a coat of white hair.

Visitors could go to the stable for a close contact with these beautiful creatures. To my surprise, the horses remained calm even though so many strangers were moving around them. In the meantime, the equestrians were busy preparing the horses for the performances at the hippodrome.

We knew nothing about dressage or show jumping. But for every walk, trot, canter and jump, we cheered and applauded together with the elated audience. The festive spirits diffused joy all around us.

The whole town was getting ready for the evening shows when dusk was slowly approaching. Staying a night in Ðakovo was necessary to fully experience the whole-day program. But we had to leave Ðakovo before night fell. Missing the best folk costume competition and the two concerts left us with some regrets in our otherwise memorable day in Ðakovo.

Private Full Day Trip to Croatia including Capital Zagreb

If You Go:

Ðakovo is well served by bus from Osijek, the third largest city in Croatia. The bus ride takes about an hour. It goes through the most beautiful farmland in Slavonia. In summer, passengers can see huge yellow sea of sunflowers. The Tourist Board of Ðakovo

About the author:
Valeria Teo and her husband divide their time between their home in Split, Croatia and Hong Kong. See their website at: www.freewebs.com/valeriaijosip

All photos are by Valeria Teo.

by Wynne Crombie

My husband and I had one goal in mind when we visited Croatia: to stroll Dubrovnik’s magnificent walls. But first, we had to immerse ourselves into the atmosphere of that ancient city that had come into existence between AD 598 and 615.

Our hotel, the Stari Grad, fit the bill. Its eight rooms had been fashioned out of a millennium-old mansion. It was one of only two hotels located in the Old Town; the new modern ones are all outside the walls.

We found the centuries old moat to still be intact; its water replaced with plantings. The medieval Pile Gate was our entryway to the Old Town and the Stradun Promenade, the Old Town’s main street. The locals call it the “marble street,” but in fact it is paved in stone that has been polished smooth by centuries of people walking over it.

Everything within the Old Town walls is a pedestrian-only area. Espirit, Hilfiger and Beneton compete for space with seventeen-hundred-year old buildings.

We turned left at the second alleyway off the, Promenade, and entered a six-foot wide passageway. An endless steep flight of stairs lay ahead. Any numbers of houses, or businesses were squeezed in along both sides of the lane. Window boxes, balconies and open shutters almost touched each other across the narrow walkway.

Luckily, the word HOTEL was immediately on our right and we literally stepped into history. Each landing (we saw them all as there wasn’t an elevator) had a sitting area of antique furniture. Only the bathrooms were 21st century.

Now, ensconced firmly in antiquity, we were ready to explore the almost two mile long set of Dubrovniks’ walls.

We sought out the Pile Gate again, where we climbed up about twelve stone steps weathered by centuries of humanity, to the ticket booth. These aren’t steps in the usual sense. These are w-i-d-e stones requiring sometimes two steps per stone. Take your time.

A short distance ahead, we reached the circular bastion, the Bokar Fort Below, the ocean crashed against boulders where a few hardy swimmers were navigating the surf. In the distance a modern-day cruise ship was anchored alongside a Spanish galleon.

Pigeons scurried around our feet and an occasional dog crossed our path. We enjoyed checking out the cannons and ramparts on the Adriatic side of the wall. A few feet away, on the other side of the wall, we had a great view of modern-day residents in their backyards going about their daily business. Citrus trees, bougainvillea and an occasional wash line – it was all there. The residents compensate for this intrusion by their creative marketing of homemade embroidered linens, paintings, and jewelry.

A troop of Germans tourists stopped and we took each others’ pictures. A woman from Oregon, now married to a Croatian, was delighted to be able to discuss American politics in her own language. When she first moved here, the dollar brought eight kunas, now she said, it was five.

We paused often to just lean against a wall or peek into a cannon. With their sheer height (the highest point is 82 feet) and bulk, these huge defensive towers, saved Dubrovnik from Ottoman invaders in the 16th century and protected its citizens from Serb bombardment in the late 20th century.

Just when we were feeling like one with Dubrovnik’s Middle Ages, a woman holding a ping pong paddle high in the air, rounded the corner. She was tailed by a group of fifteen Americans with name badges, cameras and cell phones.

At the Fort of St. John, we turned inward, beginning the second half. We left the walls and returned to ground level as we walked around the Ploce Gate where the 16th century Revelin Fort stands guard. The interior side affords a good look at signs of the recent war.

Taking a boat ride also offers excellent close-up views of the walls and several of the towers and bastions. The high road to the south offers particularly good views though there are very few stopping places.

On our last day, we wandered outside the Old Town and across the moat to an outdoor pizza trattoria. As if on cue, the local high school band was playing. With their bright red jackets and navy pants, they were reminiscent of any stateside half-time show.

For $8, we had the most marvelous mushroom and dried tomato pizza for two. We munched happily into the mozzarella and contemplated our restaurant for our last evening in Dubrovnik.

Dubrovnik Private Guided Tour of the Old Town

If You Go:

Hotel: Stari Grad, (Od Sigurate 4), Old Town, rates about $170/double. Breakfast included.

Restaurants: Proto (Siroka 1) Tel. 020/323-234 They take pride in using old family recipes and local ingredients. Check out the upstairs terrace. And, sample the local taste for strolling with an ice cream cone (about $1.75) many locations.

Language: English is widely spoken.

Getting There: There is no direct flight from the States to Dubrovnik. Air Croatia flies from many European cities to Dubrovnik.

The Wall: Admission to the walls is $8. With a ticket, you can choose to return to the walls later as long as it is on the same day that the ticket was purchased. In the summer months, the walls are open from 9 am to 7:30 pm, but only from 10 to 3 in the winter.

For More Information: UNESCO Old City of Dubrovnik

About the author:
Wynne and her husband, Kent, met in 1960s Berlin. They have never tired of traveling. She has a master’s degree in adult education and teaches ESL at Harper College near Chicago.

All photos are by Wynne Crombie.

by Wynne Crombie

Slanted sun rays fell upon the two-thousand- year-old boulders that formed one wall of our Split hotel room. The Peristil Hotel was a part of the Diocletian Palace, the basis of today’s Split.

The Roman emperor, of the same name, had viewed this as his retirement, “mega-mansion” and eventual burial ground for himself. It is ironic justice that the Christians he murdered during his reign (284 – 305 A. D) are buried there instead.

The Underground Tour is a must. Diocletian had added a subterranean floor (podrum), or basement, as his “support area”, where the cooking, wine making and palace fix-it shop were all located. The ventilation system was elaborate for its time. This was a needed commodity because he used this area to deposit garbage, some of which remains to this day in pulverized form. Pieces of the Emperor’s original wine-making apparatus are still in place.

These underground halls were originally only a substructure to support the upper structure. Today, these cellars enable us to see the exact ground-plan of the south part of the palace where the emperor Diocletian lived with his family. These halls play a significant part in the everyday life of 21st century Split.

Today’s residents live in the quarters there Diocletian’s soldiers once lived. There are some 220 buildings within the palace walls that are home to about 3,000 people. In Diocletian’s time, it had some sixty thousand inhabitants. UNESCO has declared the entire section of the city enclosed by the old palace walls, a World Heritage Site.

Within this warren of narrow cobblestone streets, pre-Romanesque churches exist alongside cafes, bars, shops, boutique hotels and apartments.

During basement restorations, scientists discovered stone elements older than the Palace itself. You can see part of the marble table that was once in the Diocletian dining room!

The Vestibule, at the southern end of the Palace, served as an entrance to the Emperor’s residence. Mostly, it was a waiting room for visitors summoned to see the emperor.

This ancient foyer is a marvel in antiquity. Statues stand in rounded niches. Its white rotunda wall is capped with a large, open dome and glittering color mosaic. If you catch the sun just right you can take a spectacular photo of sunlight shining through the dome.

From the Vestibule, the network of corridors wind around to where they form a number of galleries and souvenir shops. A lot of handcrafted items, such as paintings, jewelry and embroidered items are for sale. At the end of the “shopping corridor” you climb a set of stairs and come out onto the Peristyle Square. Take time out to sample coffee at Luxor’s Café before discovering St. Dominuis Cathedral a few steps away.

Diocletian originally had the eight-sided Cathedral built as a mausoleum for himself. In 316 A.D. he was laid to rest and spent 170 years of eternity there before someone stole his remains… no telling who. To this day, they have never been found.

The original doors have been taken inside and covered with glass. The twenty-eight carved wooden panels by the 13th century artist, Andrija Buvina, showing the life of Jesus… from the Annunciation to the Ascension… is worth the price of admission alone. (10 Kuna – $2)

After the Emperor’s remains were taken from his mausoleum, and, with the rise of Christianity, the mausoleum was transformed into a Catholic Cathedral. So much for Diocletian’s campaign to eradicate Christianity.

A small black sphinx, perched near the entrance to the cathedral, is one of sixteen that Diocletian had his slaves drag over from Luxor. Nearby is a column he pilfered from Greece. In total, Diocletian looted some 28 granite and marble columns from the Greeks and Egyptians, just to decorate his final resting place. The sphinx is in remarkable shape with just the nose slightly smashed in. It lies just outside the Cathedral’s entrance in the Peristyle where the Split Summer Musical Festival is held every July and August.

I walked into the narthex of the octagonal- shaped building. As cathedrals go, this is rather small. The plethora of Romanesque architectural features is rather overwhelming. Side by side ornate carvings are topped by a vaulted ceiling. If you look way up, you can see busts of Diocletian and his wife Prisca, around the dome. That’s the only evidence they were ever here. Where was his original resting place? His sarcophagus is thought to have been placed somewhere in the middle of the cathedral.

I headed to the right and climbed the stairs to the Cathedral’s museum. Krunoslav, the museum’s archivist, was standing behind an array of brochures describing the museum in seven different languages. I was his only customer.

“Dobro Jutro.” he said, “I’m not busy. Come, I’ll give you a solo tour.”

My first impression was, so much jewelry and objects d’art crammed into one place. How was everything protected? There didn’t appear to be much of a security system in this rather small room.

Krunoslav walked me past vestments encrusted with gold thread, and Baroque reliquaries containing remnants of martyred saints. Peering at the ornamental minute stitches on these early vestments, you can’t help but compare it to mass production of the 21st century.

The oldest item was a book of 7th century masses in Croatian, the so-called Split Book of the Gospels. There were relics of St. Arnira and St. Arnir, both 12th century. Martyrs, next to chalices embedded with rubies and diamonds.

Krunoslav told me that not much has changed here since 300 A.D., except for the addition of the 197 ft. bell tower adjacent to the cathedral. It was built in stages from the 12th to the 16th centuries. Weather took its toll and some restoration took place from 1890 to 1906. The tower is built in both Romanesque and Gothic Renaissance styles. Alas, during the 19th century reconstruction, the bell tower’s original Romanesque sculptures were removed. The tower defines Split to this day. Split’s Roman heritage really began in, Solona, just above Split in the hills. (a twenty- minute bus ride from town) We ventured out for a look. This is ancient Split from the Roman times, including an amphitheatre. Check out this outdoor arena; it was once three stories high and sat 15,000. Hard to imagine that this pile of Roman ruins was once the largest city on the eastern Adriatic coast.

An hour’s bus ride took us out to Trogir. The entire town is on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage list and rightly so. Situated on a small island, (you walk across a small bridge) it was founded in the 3rd century, B.C. by the Greeks. Walk around and take in the ornate stonework and delightful restaurants and shops.

Split is a city like no other – a superb blend of Croatian and Roman antiquities just waiting to be explored.

More Information:

Tourist Board of Split Official Website

There is no direct flight from the U.S. to Split. However, many European airlines fly to Split, Zagreb, and Dubrovnik.

Split Tours Now Available:
Grand Split Walking Tour
Split Wine Tasting
Small group Split Walking Tour and Split Car Tour
Split Culinary Tour

Where to stay:
If you are an antiquities fan, there is no place but the Hotel Peristil. This wonderful little 3 star hotel is built right into the Diocletian Palace. About $150/night (double)
Where to eat:
– Restoran Tifani: Located right in the Peristil Hotel. Grilled meats and fish are staples. Great, friendly service. – entrees $10-$30
– Kanoba Varos: The word, Kanoba, means Croatian food. We found many locals eating here. Very atmospheric. Fish and grilled meat plus Croatian favorites like cevapi (sausages) and palacinke (filled crepes) – entrees, $12-15
– Hotel Park Dining Room The hotel is located just outside the Old Town. International cuisine. (expensive)

About the author:
Wynne Crombie has a master’s degree in adult education and teaches English at Harper College outside of Chicago. She met her husband of forty years, (Kent)in Berlin. Wynne was teaching with the Department of Defense School System and Kent was an Air Force Security officer. They have four grown daughters.

Photo credits:
All photos are by Wynne Crombie.