Hiking the Ancient Makawehi Lithified Cliffs

by Noreen Kompanik 

Known for its unique geography and unparalleled natural beauty, Kauai is one of the most breathtaking islands in the world. A hiker’s dream. Truth be told even if one is not an avid hiker, the abundance of natural wonders waiting to be explored is endless.

Our hearts were set on introducing our fellow travelers to the spectacular Na Pali Coast, globally renowned for its rugged, breathtaking grandeur, secluded beaches, rainbow waterfalls and, yes, challenging, daunting hikes. Three days of heavy rains and flooding foiled our plans. Steep treacherous cliffs and slick trails make for heart failing excitement, but, not the kind of excitement we were looking for. Even under the best conditions the Na Pali Coast can be dangerous with its washed out trails and narrow, stony paths clinging precariously to the edge of cliffs. With more rain expected in the forecast, we reluctantly took the locals advice and headed south to the sunny shores of Poipu. It is here on the south side of Kauai that we found unexpected treasure.

Kauai’s southern coastline features a fascinating path along the ancient, fragile ecosystem of the Maha’ulepu Heritage Trail. The trail begins on crescent-shaped Shipwrecks Beach near the Grand Hyatt in Keoneloa Bay. A fishing vessel was said to have run aground on the bay’s sandbar. Though remains of the vessel are now “lost at sea”, the beach retains its famous name. Leaving the tropical white sandy beach, we were surprised to find ourselves in groves of fresh, fragrant pine trees. Our path covered with thousands of soft green needles. Colorful flora and fauna of the forest surrounded us. With very few hikers to be seen, we felt as if the trail was ours alone.

After climbing a gentle upgrade, we emerged into a completely different world. Greeted by azure skies and miles of crystal deep blue sea, the stunningly rugged coastline stood before us. Commanding views of the churning Pacific waters were visible from vantage points overlooking the edge of sun bleached cliffs. Magnificent coves in the distance appeared like a perfect painting. Blowholes shooting occasional sprays of salty ocean water along the path demonstrated the immense power of the ocean at high tide. Binoculars in hand, we ventured closer to the water, our excitement piquing with the unexpected sight of massive humpback whales breaching in the distance.

The Makawehi Lithified Cliffs loomed ahead, appearing like an alien landscape. These cliffs were formed from sand dunes weathered by wind and surf over thousands of years. Crashing wave action carved sharp ridges and deep pockets in the cliff side. Lithification occurred when sediments compacted, then filled pores with ground water containing high levels of minerals. Fascinating scientific explanation that translates to- spectacular views.

Each bend in the path yielded more surprise- the element of any good journey. Crystal clear tide pools teemed with tiny fish and miniature crabs all scurrying to find safety as each wave brought more water surging into the pool. Treasure troves of fossils and petroglyphs carved into the rocks line the coastal pathways. Skeletal remains of extinct birds that once lived on Kauai before Polynesian voyagers first arrived over 1500 years ago have been discovered by paleontologists.

Each outcropping of rock, each sheltered bay and inlet, each changing vista yielded more awe inspiring views and geological wonderments. Cool, moist caves lured us to their entrances begging to be explored. Whooshing sounds of waves roaring through the wind tunnels cautioned us to beware the mighty power of the Pacific surf.

On our return trip, we followed the inside trail away from of the direct sun and into the welcoming shade of the palm and coconut forest. Since the paths split and merged repeatedly, we were able to easily navigate a completely different route back. Much to our surprise, we unexpectedly stumbled across a sacred ancient Hawaiian burial site. The stillness was interrupted by a gentle breeze stirring through the treetops, reminding us that for the ancient gods, their mana still lives here. Eyes closed, we sensed the spirit of the ancient Hawaiians and heard their whispers urging us to respect this sacred ground.

Arriving back to Shipwrecks Beach at the end of our trek, we were certain we could undertake this adventure multiple times and it would never be the same. Though not an exceptionally challenging hike, we instead experienced a relaxing trek with breathtaking views and fascinating discoveries perfect for a casual or family hike. Oh, and about that initial disappointment in forgoing the Na Pali trail, nature’s artistry took care of that.

Louis L’Amour once said “The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel too fast and you miss all you are traveling for.” We are thankful to have not missed this unexpected treasure.

If You Go:

Take Highway 50 east from Hanapepe. Turn right on Highway 520 toward Po’ipu. At the end of 520, turn right on Koloa Road and then left on Poipu Road. Park in the lot near the Hyatt Hotel and take the trail between this hotel and the Poipu Bay Resort golf course. OR, go to the east end of Shipwreck Beach to access the cliff trails. The hike is a round trip of approximately 3½ miles. Plan on at least two hours (or more if you love to explore).

Kauai: Waimea Canyon and Fern Grotto Kauai

About the author:
Noreen Kompanik is a published freelance travel writer and photographer based in San Diego, California. She is a member of the International Travel Writers and Photographer’s Alliance and shares many of her adventures, stories and photos on whatsinyoursuitcase.net and the What’s In Your Suitcase? Facebook site at www.facebook.com/Whats-In-Your-Suitcase-322531634589666.

All photos by Noreen Kompanik:
1. Beginning the Hike
2. Rocky Kauai Coast
3. High tide on the Cliffs
4. Alien looking Landscape
5. Makawehi Bay & Inlets
6. Sacred Burial Ground

Kaua’i, Hawaii

by Joan Boxall 

Bird-watching is the most popular recreation in America, and the Audubon Bird Count summons us every December to the Christmas Bird Count on the ‘Garden Isle’ of Kauai in the Hawaiian Archipelago. With David Kuhn, creator of the website, ‘Sounds Hawaiian’, we add native forest birds to our count. Kuhn leads us into the Alakai Swamp’s mist and mud, in Koke’e National Park, on a surreal mission, where we are about to trade eyes for ears.

The Audubon Count has been ongoing for 114 years and is the longest running Citizen Science survey, offering data on population trends of North American birds, from mid-December to early January.

In the early nineteenth century, Audubon, ornithologist, painter/illustrator, naturalist, taxidermist and author of the four-volume, Birds of America, sketched and then water-color painted renderings of over 700 of the 914 species, then topped up, with chalk pastel details. Innovative at that time was his depiction of birds in their natural habitat, in everyday poses. We feel ready to identify some of those, in the field.

Early-birds we aren’t, so we drive from sea level on Kauai’s South Shore the day before and stay the night at Orchard Cottage, a cabin situated at 3600 feet, a five-minute walk from The Lodge at Koke’e State Park. Volunteers get a reduced rate with a family membership. We sign up.

Outside, Red Jungle fowl (chicken escapees from 1992’s Hurricane Iniki) strut and peck, while we enjoy our home-cooked spaghetti dinner. It’s December’s early dusk, and we find ourselves constellation-gazing. Orion, The Hunter, with his club and shield, rises up. Alongside are his faithful hunting dogs, Canis Major (the Big Dipper) and Canis Minor (the Little Dipper).

Bedside reading is Hawaii’s Birds by the Hawaii Audubon Society, which includes the native birds we’ll be spying. I’m cramming as if for a driving signage test: two yellow ones, two red ones and a brownie. The red and yellow ones have curved and straight beaks. On the (olive) yellow side is the Common ‘Amakihi (Mr. Curved Beak), and his sweet warbling straight man, ‘Anianiau, who, just to make things interesting, is known as the lesser ‘Amakihi.

In the red corner is ‘I’iwi whose call, like a rusty gate, squeaks from its curved hinge. As it turns out, the bird with the most agile movements and versatile calls turns out to be Kuhn’s favorite songster, the ‘Apapane. All four are honeycreepers, unique to Hawaii. Oh, and the little brownie? That’s the hikers’ friend, ‘Elepaio, with cocky tail feathers and a curious boldness. I’m ready for my drivers’ test and dawn comes quickly on our Jungle fowl alarm-clock.

We introduce ourselves outside the Koke’e Museum at seven, and loosely plot a process for the morning count. I’ll record specie sightings, while Kuhn and my husband will spot, look and listen. After a twenty-minute, slick 4×4 mud-road ride to the Alakai Swamp Trailhead, Kuhn provides us with long bamboo walking sticks. Bird counts are open to the public, and we wait for any late arrivals, but it’s just us. We count on the way in, so as not to re-count any birds on the way back. It’s a linear hike; out and back. ‘By the way,’ he adds, ‘we may get a sixth bird, the ‘Akeke’e. It’s a long shot.’

It is another LYB (little yellow bird), but with a descending trill. At this point, I suspect that the top six may be harder to spot than previously thought. As it turns out, this isn’t about spotting. We won’t be eye witnesses; we’ll be ear witnesses.

We head out on the Alakai Trail, which in Hawaiian means ‘to lead’, where the Pihea Trail intersects. Pihea means ‘wailing voices’, but I’m hoping Kuhn is leading us to where the birds elicit the din (no whining or wailing from us). We’re climbing to 4000 feet— puffing, bouncing, and sometimes slithering on meshed redwood planks, all-the-while inhaling mist that blows in wisps across the trail. We’re teetering on the ridge above the Kalalau Valley. Tack it up to the altitude. I’m dizzy with delight. And my ears feel like gramophone horns— two stretching lobes, leaning into the rain forest for the slightest incantation from our bird buddies.

We hear trills, warbles, slurs, cheeps, chips, buzzes, squeaks and something like a cell phone. ‘The cell phones are crickets,’ says Kuhn, pursing lips to forearm in a kissing-call to attract Apapane.

‘One more Apapane,’ says Kuhn, and I switch to pencil as the paper puckers in the dampness.

Kuhn’s love calls succeed, and we count 33 of them, thanks to his audacious ear. We walk in silence, and after two hours, re-route.

‘Did you see that?’ asks Kuhn. I observe a flutter of red, like two valentines. ‘Two ‘Apapane mating, right on the trail,’ says an ecstatic Kuhn. ‘Never seen that.’

We continue on with smiles on our faces. Kuhn stops again minutes later. His composure is ruffled. He’s riveted on the forest, hanging on every note.

‘I’ve got to catch a glimpse just to confirm that sighting,’ he says. Moments later he reappears.

‘Yes, it’s an ‘Akeke’e, an endangered species, only found in Kauai’s Waimea Canyon region, present and accounted for.’

‘What drew you to this work?’ I ask Kuhn.

‘Probably growing up on a duck farm…I was a hunter.’

Just like Audubon. Just like Orion. And now, listening and recording have become Kuhn’s shield, dog, gun, chalk pastel and paintbrush… for conservation and enjoyment.

Private Tour: Kauai Waterfalls, Hidden Beaches, Ancient Sites, Kilauea Lighthouse and Hanalei Bay

If You Go:

♦ Birds of Kauai: www.kauaibirds.comwww.kauaibirds.com
♦ Bird Watching in Hawaii: www.hawaiiaudubon.com/birding/kauai.html
♦ www.hawaiiaudubon.org/#!kauai-birding/c1yzp
♦ Kauai Bird Recovery Project: kauaiforestbirds.org/about-us/

Best of Kauai Tour

About the author:
Joan Boxall is a Vancouver writer with a keen interest in bird watching. At present (December 2014) she is back on Kauai to attend the Christmas Bird Count again. She is a member of the BC Travel Writer’s Association.

NOTE: David Kuhn’s Websites are here – soundshawaiian.com/birds_kauai.html and www.birdquest-tours.com/ourteam.cfm?team=37

Photo credits:
‘Anianiau – USGS / Public domain
‘Elepaio – HarmonyonPlanetEarth / CC BY
Amakihi – Bettina Arrigoni / CC BY
‘I’iwi – Kanalu ChockCamera location20° 46′ 03.6″ N, 156° 14′ 09″ W View this and other nearby images on: OpenStreetMap – Google Earth 20.767667; -156.235833 / CC BY-SA
‘Apapane – ALAN SCHMIERER from southeast AZ, USA / CC0

by Teresa Adamowski

Most people know Kaua’i as the Garden Isle. On a recent visit to the oldest Island in Hawaii’s archipelago, I was surprised to learn of Kauai’s other claim to fame.

My first image of Kaua’i is from high above on the final approach to the Island. The vibrant red earth is a stark contrast to the intense cerulean ocean. The dirt is red due to the fact that the high iron content of the volcanic soils has had plenty of time to oxidize, especially with the wet conditions of the island. Incidentally, Kaua’i is the rainiest place on Earth.

As I step onto the sizzling tarmac, the air is still and stifling hot. The sun’s rays are tenacious and it is a relief to fling myself into the air conditioned van that will take me to my final destination approximately one hour North of Lihue Airport.

It’s not evident upon first glance, however as my taxi journeys over the bumpy and winding road Northward, I notice a copious cluster of chickens and roosters happily foraging the immaculate beachfront. It strikes me as odd to see so many chickens wandering freely, so I ask the cab driver for an explanation. He smiles and shares with me a fascinating story of Hawaii’s very recent history.

“When Hurricane Iniki hit the Island in 1992, the powerful storm destroyed many large chicken farms and the feathered inhabitants fled to all corners of the Island”.

He went on to explain that as Kaua’i encompasses dense vegetation, massive waterfalls, canyons and vast areas that are only accessible by air or water, the chickens were able to escape detection for many years. Since then, they have thrived in this tropical paradise and the lush Island has been overrun by a large and growing feral chicken population.

“I don’t eat the chickens myself, but my wife’s family are always chasing them things,” The cab driver chuckles. “Her family’s a bit crazy,” he adds in a hushed tone.

The status of the Kaua’i chickens and roosters becomes more evident as I settle into my suite at the Princeville Westin Resorts on the North Shore.

I am awakened by loud crowing at the crack of dawn and the whole clan joins me by the infinity pool where they peck at the stray handouts willingly offered by curious tourists, who snap photos to commemorate the moment.

The concierge at the Resort offers an alternate explanation to the recent chicken explosion. During the late 1800’s and early 1900’s, sugarcane plantation labourers imported and raised the chickens for eating and as a form of entertainment (“cockfighting”). Over the years, some of the chickens got loose and formed the wild clan. He concurs that the massive hurricanes certainly contributed to the over abundance of chickens.

Curious to test my theory that there must be a place on the Island without “free-range” chickens, I embark on a day trip to Tunnel’s Beach, which is a favourite haunt for snorkelers and swimmers due to the generous cove that is protected by a coral reef. I enjoy a scenic drive to the North West corner of the Island, along the rural twisting seaside roadway. Around each corner I strain to catch a glimpse of the most perfect uninhabited white sand beaches through the bushy over growth. I stop along the way to witness the enormous surf crash onto the shore with a thunderous clap.

As if this display of ferocity is not enough to deter swimmers, there are many notices warning of dangerous tidal conditions. At the end of the road, I arrive at a secluded, romantic beach teeming with tourists, locals and yes, more chickens.

After a week of exploring the natural wonders of Kaua’i, I no longer think of wild chickens on the beach as strange. Somehow they have grown on me and add to the quirky but friendly ambience of the Island. I imagine the Kauaians are no doubt thankful for the boost to their local economy. A visit to any gift shop on the Island reveals numerous chicken themed souvenirs and surprisingly the quantity and selection surpasses the availability of local sea turtle merchandise. The Kaua’i chicken is here to stay as the unofficial and unusual mascot of the Garden Isle.

Kauai Luau and Sunset Dinner

If You Go:

♦ Don’t be deterred by Kauai’s claim as the rainiest place on Earth. When it does rain it does not last long and dries very quickly due to year round tropical temperatures.
♦ Rent a car in Lihue airport or in the City as it can be very pricey to take a cab across the Island (e.g. $100 U.S.D. + tip from Lihue to Princeville).
♦ Bring with you a sense of adventure. There are many activities to enjoy while you visit Kaua’i, including helicopter tours, hiking in Waimea Canyon, surfing, snorkeling, kayaking and sailing to name a few.
♦ The locals are especially friendly and are a great source of information and advice.

About the author:
Teresa Adamowski is a writer who is very physically active and creative. In her spare time, she enjoys running, drawing, and hiking. Recently she suffered a setback in her half marathon training and has found solace in writing She loves to travel and explore new cities, however has found a special connection with the Islands of Hawaii and plans to return very soon. Publications: viewer.zmags.com/publication/4dba4be2#/4dba4be2/58

All photographs are by Teresa Adamowski.