by Roy A. Barnes

“The Tide,” is Norfolk’s light rail system and I found it useful to help me get to some off-the-beaten-path sites that were related to the years before, during, and after the Civil War. The downtown area is easily navigable by foot, so I was able to explore more historical gems related to America’s great conflict with my comfortable walking shoes.

I headed northwest of downtown in search of an out of the way former military installation called Fort Norfolk, where wartime activities had taken place beginning with the American Revolution. It’s just three blocks from the light rail system’s EVMC/Fort Norfolk Station and inside the grounds of the US Army Corp of Engineers (behind a multi-story retirement home).

Fort Norfolk goes back to the Revolutionary War era. It was abandoned by the Rebels in 1862, but not before supplying the ammo used by the Confederates’ CSS Merrimac against the USS Monitor in the great ironclad battle. The Union Army made it a prison and then the fort served as a naval installation until 1878. Brick buildings have been painted white and are surrounded by high grassy mounds, allowing some great views of the Elizabeth River and dockyards. In the midst of a sunny, breezy day, I could feel the presence of those past centuries long gone.

The light rail system’s Harbor Park Station leads right up to the Norfolk Tides’ baseball park, where minor leaguers strive to make it to the big leagues each season. But just behind the left field parking lot, a more important game was played out. These were areas where slaves strived to make it to freedom via some Virginia Underground Railroad sites of 150-plus years ago. Conspicuous yet unmarked pathways lead to these unkempt areas where once Higgins Wharf and Wright’s Wharf stood, overlooking the Elizabeth River. Now only fisherman can be found.

Slaves who could navigate this isolated area would be able to secretly board ships sailing for the north, like the Augusta, which charged legal passengers some $7 dollars for passage to New York (meals included) in the mid-nineteenth century, departing Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays at 6:30 a.m. I found myself feeling isolated while pondering how challenging it would be to risk one’s life to get freedom, avoiding the pitfalls of ship raids for fugitive slaves. The common knowledge around town, through Abolitionist newspapers, told about the city’s role in helping escaped slaves.

Just a few blocks from “The Tide’s” Monticello Station, the Norfolk History Museum at the Willoughby-Baylor House can be found. Built in 1794, it has free entrance. The city’s history is extensively covered through pictures, maps, and aged artifacts including the occupation history of Union forces from 1862-1865. I learned about how whites evaded being drafted by getting African Americans to substitute for them in “Negro substitute” centers, some located in Norfolk. I discovered the violent aftermath when race riots were common after the war’s end, as blacks were striving to assert their new freedoms due to the 1866 Civil Rights Act. While ascending the second floor, I noticed some gripping black and white photos of Norfolk’s people and places during the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

On a beautiful Saturday morning I took a 90 minute Norfolk Walkabouts tour. I sauntered through the Freemason neighborhood, near to the shipyards and docks, just to the northwest of downtown, down cobblestone lanes lined with sycamore and oak trees, dominated by homes where ship’s captains once lived.

Their stately dwellings display many chronological styles of architecture including Federal, Queen Anne, Georgian Revival, etc. At the corner of Botetcourt St. and Freemason St. (the first street in Norfolk with gas lamps), the union used Dr. William B. Seldon’s home as their headquarters. Seldon was the Surgeon General for the Confederates, and would host Confederate General Robert E. Lee after the great conflict in 1870.

For those who are into self-guided tours, I found the Cannonball Trail suitable for helping get more intimate with Norfolk. The walk takes explorers to potentially 43 different stately homes and other structures (dating from the 1790s until the early 1900s) around Norfolk’s waterfront, downtown, and Ghent neighborhood, offering views of such Civil War sites like the U.S. Customhouse, used as a dungeon by the Union Army.

One of the stops is St. Paul’s Episcopal Church, which existed when it was the American colonists versus King George III. It served as a Union Army chapel during the War Between the States. The house of worship received $3,600 in damages following the war from Uncle Sam for damages sustained during the occupation, but got no money from the British for shooting a cannonball into one of its exterior walls on January 1, 1776, which can be seen today.

I got more insight into the maritime aspects of the Civil War when I visited the massive three-story high Nauticus complex on the city’s waterfront. It’s an easy walk from lower downtown. Inside Nauticus on the second floor is the Hampton Roads Naval Museum, where naval battles between the North and South get a lot of attention.

I learned through those particular exhibits that African Americans actually made up 16 percent of the Union’s North Atlantic Blockading Squadron. I also didn’t know that Union General George McClellan attempted to cut off the rail hubs and water routes like an anaconda snake (i.e., “Anaconda Plan”) would use on its prey. This ultimately led to the eventually abandonment of the city by the Confederates.

Besides Civil War exhibits, large exhibits cover many aspects of the Norfolk area’s naval history during America’s wars plus ocean and weather science through hands on displays (and actual hands-on feels of sea life like Horseshoe crab). Videos, scale models, and artifacts abound here. One can attempt to maneuver a manned underwater vehicle simulator or play a video game where getting at some treasure in the ocean is the objective. The exhibits are nicely-spaced to where I had some elbow room to ponder what I read and saw, even though the place was crowded with civilians and former Navy personnel who serve or served this country at sea.

It’s not hard to miss the Nauticus complex, for next to the super-sized building is the Battleship Wisconsin, which is 887 feet, 3 inches long from the bow to the stern, almost the length of three football fields. Guests are allowed to roam the ship’s deck, including some of the upper levels, and can get a close view of the massive firepower the Wisconsin once used.

If You Go:

♦ Norfolk Tide Light Rail: www.gohrt.com/services/the-tide
♦ Fort Norfolk: www.virginia.org/Listings/HistoricSites/FortNorfolk
♦ Willoughby-Baylor House: www.chrysler.org/about-the-museum
♦ Norfolk Walkabouts tour: www.facebook.com/NorfolkWalkabouts
♦ Cannonball Trail/Underground Railroad brochure: issuu.com/dia1/docs
♦ Nauticus: www.nauticus.org
♦ Norfolk Tourist Information: www.visitnorfolktoday.com

About the author:
Roy A. Barnes attended a press trip sponsored by Visit Norfolk, but what he wrote is his impressions without any vetting by the sponsor. He’s a frequent contributor to Travel thru History, and writes from southeastern Wyoming.

All photos are copyright Roy A. Barnes, and may not be used without permission:
Fort Norfolk
Higgins Wharf Underground Railroad
Union Commanders’ House
St. Paul’s Church
Nauticus complex

Joining the Civil War Adventure Camp, Petersburg, Virginia

by Sandra Scott

My husband John and I signed up for the Civil War Adventure Camp, part of the Pamplin Historical Park. I volunteered for the Army of the Potomac and John joined the Army of the Confederacy. Regardless of the visions of glory when enlisting, this quickly faded with the intensity of the training and experiencing the horror of war, albeit a ‘mock’ war.

Dressed in my blue Union uniform, I stood next to John in his Confederate gray and we were sworn is as privates. We were each issued a haversack, canteen, cartridge case, and cap case.

“Platoon Assemble,” barked the First Sergeant. “A sorry looking bunch of fresh fish if ‘er I saw one. Here is how you wear your uniform and equipment.”

We quickly learned the correct reply was, “Yes, Sir!”

Then he taught us the proper way to salute: “Palm out!”

Once we were somewhat presentable he instructed us in commands: “Form columns of companies!” “Count off!” “Dress right!” “Right face!” “Right Flank! March! One, Two!”

We managed to get into some kind of order and marched to our encampment where we were issued blankets and assigned our quarters. Fortunately, we didn’t have to build our houses and dig trenches like the real Civil War soldiers did.

The log and canvas quarters were surprisingly comfy after the drilling and marching: two bunk beds with foam mattresses and a little Franklin stove, which we would not need given the unseasonably warm weather. Before we had time to enjoy our accommodation we heard the familiar command: “Platoon assemble!”

Back in line we were issued wooden muskets to practice with. We learned the proper way to handle them in a variety of situations: at ease, for inspection, marching, and climbing over fences. First Sergeant Young taught us to “load in nine.” During the Civil War most of the southern soldiers were familiar with muskets and rifles but not the northern soldiers. Following the commands we positioned our musket at an angle by our left heel, took out a cartridge and tore off the paper with our teeth.

“All infantrymen must have at least four teeth, preferably two on the bottom and two on the top,” said the Sergeant. “Spit that paper out, you don’t want to swallow it. I want to hear everyone spit!”

I poured the power into the barrel, squeezing it to make sure the ball went in. Then I was told to draw the ramrod and used it to ram the cartridge into the barrel, return the ramrod, and move the musket to my right hand.

“You are all right handed here,” the Sergeant said.

I reached into the pouch and put a cap on the cone of the weapon. Using my right thumb, I cocked the weapon, and aimed waiting for the order to fire. We drilled and drilled some more. It was hot, but we were lucky it wasn’t raining. Off we marched to the firing range where we actually got to fire a real black powder musket and a mortar.

In the evening, after a hearty dinner of beef stew, hard tack, shrub (fruit drink) and some fruit donated by a local farmer, we took turns on patrol, some standing watch, others waiting their turn. Soldiers not on guard duty played card and dice games. Someone commented: “If’n I happen to buy the farm promise you’ll get rid of the cards and dice in my haversack. I don’t want my momma to know I was gambling.”

The full moon offered a bit of light. The only sound was an owl in the nearby woods. It is said that Stonewall Jackson had a soldier shot for falling asleep on guard duty. That was enough to keep everyone alert.

After such a strenuous day, no one had to be told twice what taps meant. Hitting the sack was a wonderful respite.

The tattoo sounded at 5:45 in the morning. Slowly, I crawled out of bed and rolled up my sleeping bag. I didn’t have time to go up the hill to the “sink” – military euphemism for toilet – before assembly.

After assembly, we lined up to get our field rations: hardtack, dried fruit, corn muffin, and beef jerky, and filled our canteens. Then we marched off to battle. We Union soldiers took up our position in a field trying to be as inconspicuous as possible in the grass. We were trying to break through General Robert E. Lee’s line near Petersburg.

Tension built. Then through the trees someone thought they saw a movement.

“Hold your fire!”

Sure enough the Confederates were advancing through the nearby woods. With a rebel yell the Confederate army broke out into the open.

“Fire!”

Using the buddy system we took turns firing and loading.

“Watch your left flank,” shouted the Sergeant.

After a few intense minutes the skirmish was over. We assembled, and marched back to camp. Some of the “wounded” were treated in the field. Most of the injuries were minor, but one unlucky soldier was brought to the surgery where he had to have his leg “amputated.” The doctor explained the process to us in graphic detail.

Just when it seemed that we were getting with the program it was time to muster out. We assembled, received our “pay” and “walking papers” and were discharged.

More Information:

The Civil War Adventure Camp is part of the Pamplin Historical Park. Their Civil War Battle video, “A War so Terrible” graphically depicts the realities of combat. At the museum we picked the name of an actual Civil War soldier and followed him through seven galleries with interactive displays.
Pamplin Historic Park also includes Tudor Hall Plantation, trails, and a military encampment.
The campaign of Petersburg lasted 292 days in 1864 and 1865. Known as “The Breakthrough,” the Union victory led to General Robert E. Lee’s surrender to General Ulysses S. Grant at Appomattox Court House which ended the Civil War.
The Civil War Camp Experience is a “real life” experience. Our group was a mix of all ages, mostly male but with a few females that were mainly part of family groups.

Pamplin Historical Park & The National Museum of the Civil War Soldier
6125 Boydton Plank Road
Petersburg, VA 23803

Historical Civil War Tours

Private Civil War History Walking Tour of Alexandria
Savannah Civil War Historical Walking Tour
Civil War and Plantation Tour from Nashville
Guided Civil War Carriage Tour of Charleston
Civil War Walking Tour of Savannah
Texas Civil War Museum, Log Cabin Village, and Fort Worth Cattle Drive Admission

About the author:
Contributor’s Bio: Sandra Scott is a retired history teacher and the co-author of two local history books. Scott has been traveling worldwide and writing about her travels since 1990. Her retired husband, John, is her traveling/writing partner. Their travels have taken them to over 100 countries, some several times. Along with several columns, their work has appeared in a variety of publications worldwide. Website: www.sanscott.com

All photos are by Sandra Scott.