Swiping through profiles in a foreign city carries a particular kind of tension. You have limited time, no local knowledge, and a phone full of faces you cannot read. Madrid and Barcelona attract millions of visitors each year, and a portion of those travelers open dating apps hoping to meet someone before their flight home. The logistics are straightforward enough. The social codes are less obvious.

Spain runs on rhythms that take adjustment. Meals happen late. Plans form loosely. A match might message you at midnight and suggest meeting in an hour. If you treat your phone the way you would at home, you will miss the local tempo entirely. This guide covers the apps that work, the features worth paying for, and the cultural cues that will save you from awkward silences or worse.

Which Apps Actually Work in Spain

Tinder leads the market by a wide margin. By Q2 2025, the app had roughly 755,000 weekly active users across Spain. Bumble holds second position, with Hinge coming in third. Other apps exist, but your odds improve when you fish where the fish are.

Tinder’s user base skews younger in both Madrid and Barcelona. Bumble tends to attract slightly older users and those who prefer women to initiate conversation. Hinge positions itself for people seeking relationships over casual encounters, though in practice the lines blur. If you download all three, you cover your bases without cluttering your phone.

What to Expect When Dating Spanish Men

Spaniards tend to communicate with warmth and directness. If you match with someone local, expect conversation to feel open and expressive from the start. Late-night dates are common because social life in Spain runs on a different clock. Dinner at 10pm is normal, and being 15 to 30 minutes late carries no offense.

When dating Spanish men, prepare for bill-splitting to be the default. This surprises some travelers who assume traditional customs apply. Spanish dating culture leans toward equality in small gestures, even when passion and directness define the broader tone of romantic interaction.

Travel Features Worth the Money

Both Tinder and Bumble offer location-changing features designed for travelers. Tinder Passport Mode allows you to search by city or drop a pin anywhere on the map. You can start conversations with people in Madrid or Barcelona before you board your flight. The feature comes bundled with Tinder Plus, Gold, and Platinum subscriptions, or you can purchase it separately.

Bumble Travel Mode serves the same function. It lasts seven days and requires a Premium or Premium+ subscription. Activating it before arrival gives you time to build rapport and schedule dates for your first nights in town. Waiting until you land cuts into your window.

The subscription costs feel worthwhile if you travel frequently or plan an extended stay. For a weekend trip, the math changes. You might get enough matches on free tiers to fill your evenings without paying anything.

Setting Up Your Profile for a Foreign Audience

Your bio should mention that you are visiting. Locals appreciate knowing upfront. It filters out people looking for long-term partners and attracts those open to short-term connections or showing a traveler around their city.

Include photos that suggest something about your personality beyond your face. A picture at a recognizable location in your home country gives conversation material. Avoid group shots where nobody can tell which person you are. Skip the sunglasses-only lineup.

Write a few words in Spanish if you can manage it. Even a simple greeting signals effort. Google Translate handles basic phrases well enough. “Estoy visitando Barcelona por una semana” tells them what they need to know.

Timing Your Swipes

Spanish social schedules peak late. Swiping at 7pm catches people still at work or commuting. Activity rises after 9pm and stays high past midnight. If you want responses while your energy remains intact, adjust your sleep schedule or accept that you will message half-asleep.

Weekends bring heavier traffic. Thursday through Sunday nights produce the most active users. Monday through Wednesday slow down unless a local holiday falls midweek.

Safety Measures That Make Sense

Bumble recommends using video chat or voice call features before meeting in person. This verifies that your match resembles their photos and speaks the way their messages suggest. It takes 5 minutes and removes a category of risk.

First dates belong in public locations. Bars, cafes, and restaurants give you exit options and witnesses. Tell someone where you are going. Your hotel concierge works if you travel alone. A friend back home works too, as long as they know to check in.

Keep your phone charged and your location services on. Share your live location with someone you trust for the duration of the date.

Reading the Room Once You Meet

Spanish conversation tends toward warmth and physical closeness. A hand on the arm, a kiss on each cheek, and steady eye contact all fall within normal behavior. This does not automatically signal romantic interest. It signals Spanish communication style.

Directness applies to rejection as well. If someone loses interest, they often say so plainly rather than ghosting or inventing excuses. This can feel abrupt if you come from a culture that cushions bad news. Take it as efficiency rather than rudeness.

When Things Go Well

A good first date in Spain often extends into a second location the same night. Dinner becomes drinks becomes a walk becomes another bar. If your match suggests moving somewhere else, they are enjoying themselves.

Late nights do not necessarily imply certain outcomes. Spanish social culture runs long without pressure to escalate. Enjoy the hours. Let things unfold at whatever pace feels right to both of you.

by Darlene Foster

During a stay in Tarragona, we take a bus trip to the mountain monastery of Montserrat, a place I had been wanting to visit for a long time. The bus winds its way up into the Montserrat Mountains for what seems like hours but is only forty minutes. Why would anyone build a monastery way up here? Our guide, a pleasant and well informed young man named Victor, explains it to us in three languages, English, French and Spanish. Legend has it that around 880 AD, shepherds heard music and saw a light coming from a cave high in the mountains. Inside they discovered a Black Madonna. The statue, the oldest Black Madonna in Europe, is only 60 cm tall but when the bishop from the nearest town in the valley came to have it removed and taken to his cathedral, it proved impossible to move. So pilgrims began coming up to the mountain to see it. Eventually, an abbey was built to commemorate the Virgin.

Once we reach our destination, the view from the top is incredible and well worth the trip.

The Gothic-style Basilica and surrounding grounds are amazing. Alcoves in the walls hold statues, including one of San Jorge (St. George), the patron saint of Catalonia. The figure looks very much like a Gaudi creation. Not surprising, as Catalonia´s most famous designer worked on the Basilica as a young man. Montserrat is home to the Sanctuary of Our Lady and a Benedictine monastery and has served pilgrims and visitors to the mountain for approximately one thousand years. It sits majestically against the backdrop of the rugged mountains. The building has been destroyed and rebuilt a few times over the years, including during the Napoleonic wars, when many of the monks onsite were sadly killed. It was also damaged in the Spanish civil war (1936 – 1939). The current building was completed in 1949. Montserrat Basilica has been modernised to attend to the needs of pilgrims over the course of one thousand years.

Directly in front of the Basilica is an open-roofed courtyard area or atrium. The ornate façade displays carvings representing the martyrs who were killed during the civil war, with five arches leading to the main area. The marbled black and white floor of the atrium was inspired by the floor of the Capitolium in Rome. Once inside, the church glitters with silver, gold and mosaics. Hanging candles line the walls creating an atmosphere of warmth and welcome. On the central pillars of the nave, sculptures of prophets such as Ezekial, Jeremiah, Isiah and Daniel are carved in wood. A stunning stained glass window catches my eye.

Pilgrims line-up to climb a set of elaborate stairs to view the Virgin of Montserrat, or the Black Madonna, the reason many come to Montserrat. Visitors are not allowed to take pictures while paying homage to the Black Madonna. But Victor explains that from inside the Basilica, from the floor of the chapel, I am allowed to take pictures. The famous sculpture sits at the back of the church, above the altar area, framed in an ornate window. Even at a distance, it is fantastic and leaves me awestruck.

A highlight of a visit to Montserrat monastery is to listen to the famous Basilica Youth Choir perform Gregorian chants and other religious choral music. The performances can be heard free of charge at one o’clock inside the Basilica most days. I would advise getting there early as the doors close once the chapel is full.

Montserrat means Saw Mountain, as the range looks like the serrated edge of a saw, and is the name of the Mountains and the sanctuary. It is perfect for walkers with many hiking trails available. A place to enjoy nature and contemplate life as you experience magnificent views of the unusual rock formations. A funicular takes visitors to the top of the mountain, where there are several different walks to choose from, all with amazing views of the Catalonian countryside.

There is also a fabulous art museum onsite. It is not very big but holds some impressive pieces of art and artifacts donated by private citizens, including a painting done by Picasso done at 14-years-old. The Monks consider it their duty to promote culture. It is definitely worth an hour of my time.

There is a small market outside where I stop at a stall and purchase a jar of honey, made by the monks. I leave feeling refreshed and at peace, satisfied I can tick off another place on that long list.

If You Go:

Montserrat is 53.4 km from Barcelona and can be reached by car via the A-2 or C-58 motorway. Be prepared to navigate a very twisty mountain road once in the mountains.

Montserrat is about one hour North West from Barcelona by train. Tickets should be bought ahead of time.

There are many organized bus tours from Barcelona and Tarragona.

There are plenty of cafes and restaurants, and one hotel if you plan to stay overnight.

Unless you plan to do many hikes, a one day trip is sufficient to see everything.

About the author:
Darlene Foster is a dedicated writer and traveler. Besides being a travel writer, she is the author of the Amanda Travels series of books featuring a spunky young girl who travels to interesting places such as the United Arab Emirates, Spain, England, Holland and Eastern Europe, where she always has an adventure. Readers of all ages enjoy following Amanda as she unravels one mystery after another in unique destinations. When not traveling herself, Darlene divides her time between the west coast of Canada and the Costa Blanca of Spain with her husband and entertaining rescue dog, Dot. www.darlenefoster.ca

All Photos are by Darlene Foster.

by Catherine Newstead

The soles of my feet were so sensitive, cold air was painful to the touch. All I wanted to do was fall into the comfy bed of our room at the Hotel Pombal. The boutique hotel was inexpensive yet elegant with kind staff on board.

But the pilgrim’s cathedral in Santiago de Compostela was drawing me. Twilight had come quickly while my eyes scanned an ancient, narrow walkway. I looked up and the spirals of the cathedral were lit by soft light in the far ground, about a kilometre away.

“Robin, let’s go, we can’t wait for tomorrow morning.”

After trekking the last 20 kilometres of our pilgrimage that day, we were exhausted and giddy. Probably dehydrated too. We gained some energy from somewhere and followed the walkway. The cobblestone path and walls were still warm from the day’s sun.

Pilgrims and tourists walked in and about the cathedral. A young Galician bag piper was busking in the square and the music echoed along side footsteps and chatter. It was breathtaking. I felt all the excitement yet I carried serenity without effort.

We found a restaurant patio near by and ate a Galician seafood paella with an ice cold Estrella beer. Perfection.

People from all over the world are drawn to walk the El Camino in Galicia, the north western part of Spain. The French Way is by far the most well known and well travelled. However there are 8 official ways according to the World Heritage Foundation. The walk is a highly personal experience. Some trek for a religious purpose but many trek for cultural, physical, or soulful reasons.

Perhaps the walk is in honour of a friend who has died or a bonding experience between Father and son. Others decide that a solo journey is best.

Based on our shared heritage, my friend Robin and I chose the British route, beginning in Finesterre. This was a 120 kilometer trek that we completed in 6 days.

The path was often mountainous and strenuous. But it took us along side beautiful farm lands, corn crops, small hamlets and a eucalyptus forest. Each morning we we filled up at least 2 liters of water each and a lunch made by staff at the inn where we stayed over night. Drinkable water and food were not always available during our 15 to 20 kilometre daily hike.

Some people choose to fly directly into Santiago de Compostela and then bus afar to their starting point. For some, the trek is 100 kilometres, others 500 or 800. In order to gain formal status as a pilgrim, one is required to walk a minimum of 100 kilometres or cycle at least 200 kilometres and have a pilgrim passport that is stamped along the way at various churches, inns and cafes. Once reaching Santiago de Compostela, you can take your pilgrim passport to the official pilgrim office for a certificate of completion. A special certificate is issued to those pilgrims who trek from St. Jean Pied de Port, an 800 kilometre trek over the Pyrenees mountains.

We planned out trip well ahead, using the Dublin based company, “One Foot Abroad.” Our suitcases were picked up each morning at 8 am and transported to the next hotel while we each carried a daypack. One Foot Abroad assisted in planning the route, maps, our pilgrim passports, some meals and the over night stays. We paid one price for all so that we could concentrate on just putting one foot in front of the other. Many pilgrims prefer to plan “on the fly” and rest for a day or more. But for those with fixed holiday times, One Foot Abroad is a good choice for cost and organization. Another option is to walk the El Camino with a group and guide.

Guides are knowledgeable and if one is travelling alone, this is another choice.

In subsequent years I walked 120 kilometres of the Portuguese Way (beginning in Vigo) and the French Way (beginning in Sarria). The French Way is the most well travelled route. It is better marked, has more frequent cafes and pubs along the path. During the last 100 kilometres the terrain can be hilly but over all less strenuous than the British route or the Portuguese Way. You will meet many more fellow pilgrims on the French Way, people from all parts of the globe. But if you are not a socializer, people are respectful of the need for privacy. The uniqueness of such an adventure is that the playing field is even. Everyone is a pilgrim regardless of race, beliefs or age. There are families with young children who trek the El Camino as well as elderly folks. However, planning for frequent rest stops with food and water is critical. I did not see anyone using a wheelchair along the routes, although perhaps this has been done. Routes include sections that are inaccessible.

Mental stamina often depends of caring for the physical self. Lightweight hiking shoes or boots and absorbent wool socks are important for the various terrains.

Depending on the time of year and route taken, a wool hat, wide brim hat and sunscreen will be important for comfort. If painful blisters appear, blister treatment packs purchased at the local pharmacia will make a huge difference in your walking experience.

There is no shame is halting the pilgrimage due to injury or issues with stamina. The Way will always be there.

Once reaching Santiago de Compostela, the journey really isn’t over. The inner journey is just beginning. Exploring the city is the sweet spot between those 2 passages.

 If You Go:

Take advantage of the free, guided tours starting in the cathedral square. Walking tours of the city are conducted in Spanish, English, German and French. You will visit the 2 Marias folk sculpture and learn about their astonishing story of survival during the Facists rule of the 1940’s . You will discover the charm of the ‘hippy’ street market called Mercado de Abastos and much more. While there is no fee, guides will accept tips.

Take a day trip to Finisterre by bus or coach. You will be guided through fishing villages and the ‘end of the earth” where the Celtic people once believed that people fell off the flat earth.
Learn some basic Spanish words to support your experience. Download a Spanish to English/English to Spanish app to your smart phone. Less citizens speak English in Galicia compared to other parts of Spain such as Barcelona or Madrid.

If you are contemplating a pilgrimage, do your homework. Social media sites will help plan the journey.

Be prepared to occasionally get lost. Back track, ask for help, look carefully for the famous clam shell signs and arrows. Feeling cranky is usually temporary.
Stay hydrated, eat well, treat your body, feet and fellow pilgrims with respect.

!Buen Camino!

Santiago de Compostela Private Tour

About the author:

Catherine Newstead writes travel and personal memoir and occasional fiction. She is always curious about the way in which people uniquely interact with one another and the world about them. Catherine is well travelled and a grandmother of two. She is planning to walk the Kumano Kodo (el camino) in Japan in 2020!

First photo by Pedro J Pacheco / CC BY-SA 3.0 ES

All other photos by Catherine Newstead and Besttourism.com

by Ana Ruiz

The year was 936 when Abd ar-Rahman III, the first Umayyad Caliph of Córdoba, began the construction of his magnificent Islamic city 5 miles west of Córdoba, the prosperous capital of al-Andalus (Islamic Spain). Legend has it that the Caliph named it Madinat az-Zahra (City of Zahra) after his favourite concubine from Granada.

According to legend, Zahra eventually soon grew most despondent despite all the wealth that surrounded her and luxuries offered. When the Caliph asked her what could be done to restore her happiness, Zahra replied that she longed to see the snow of the Sierra Nevada Mountains (Snow-Capped Mountain Range) of her home in Granada.

Not one to back down from a challenge no matter how daunting, Abd ar-Rahman III ordered rows and rows of almond trees to be planted close to each other at the gardens of the medina. When the white flowers of the almond trees blossomed in the springtime, it created the impression or illusion of falling snow and Zahra cried no more.

However, ‘Zahra’ is also the Arabic term for ‘brilliance’ or ‘shine’ and it is generally accepted that Madinat az-Zahra was named for its ‘brilliance.’ Chronicles tell of visitors traveling from afar to marvel at the richness and opulence of the palatial city. Abd ar-Rahman III spared no expense in its glorious construction hiring the best architects and artisans from all over the world incorporating materials such as gold, ivory, precious stones, and marble imported from North Africa. Twenty-five years it took over 10,000 men to build the shining city of Medina Azahara, as it is known in Spanish.

Constructed in a location of great natural beauty at the lowest foothills of the Sierra Morena Mountains, the new urban center functioned not only as the Caliph’s new residence but was to serve as the administrative center as well, while affirming, strengthening, and consolidating his power over his empire.

The fortified palace-city formed a rectangular shape measuring nearly 5000 feet long by 2500 feet wide that was enclosed and securely protected by double walls. Roadways and bridges were built and a reconstructed 1st century Roman aqueduct supplied water from the sierra.

In Medina Azahara you would find schools, libraries, workshops, stables, weapons factories, pavilions, and royal barracks. Cypress and palm trees bloomed amidst a fruitful landscape and wild animals lived in a zoo while exotic birds were kept in an aviary. Splendid features such as lavish gardens, orchards, marble fountains, large fish ponds, pools, courtyards, and terraces adorned the city. It is recorded that over 4000 columns were built from white, pink, and green marble and jasper shipped from the Phoenician city of Carthage.

Medina Azahara was comprised of three descending terraces or levels over the Guadalquivir Valley. The common folk lived at the bottom terrace or lower level where you would find the markets (suq), inns (funduq), public baths (hammam), as well as bakery houses, cavalry housing, and the Royal Mint. The Aljama or mosque, also situated on this level but outside the walled precinct, was one of the first buildings completed in 941. The middle level was reserved for court officials where they resided and performed daily administrative duties in their governmental offices. Lastly, on the uppermost level or top terrace overlooking the city lived the Caliph and his family in their private royal residence (dar al-mulk) at the Moorish palace (al-Qasr). Excavations of this terrace have uncovered traces of stables and servant’s quarters. The ceremonial entrance to the al-Qasr (Alcázar), known as the Great Oriental Portico, forms part of what can be appreciated today.

However, the heart of Medina Azahara was the particularly magnificent reception hall known as the Throne Room or Salón Rico (Rich Hall). It is said that visitors were mesmerized by its splendour and astonishing beauty. Here the Caliph received such guests as civil servants, politicians, and ambassadors. The hall opened to the south directing one’s gaze into the aromatic gardens. Thin sheets of colored marble lined the roof and walls giving it an elegant, translucent appearance while the interior was adorned with ebony, ivory, gold and silver tiles, marble columns, and arcades of horse-shoe arches reminiscent of the Great Mosque of Córdoba.

According to Arab historians, there stood in the center of the hall a fountain filled with quicksilver that when illuminated by the sun’s rays was shaken by a servant on cue as commanded by Abd ar-Rahman III. This motion caused the mercury to reflect from the sun’s rays flashing through the walls and ceiling with an overwhelming brilliance similar to that of lightning. Nothing like this had ever been constructed anywhere before, and although guests were generally frightened, the Caliph took great delight in this entertaining display.

However, the power of the Caliphate began to decline towards the late 10th century due to internal struggles within and in the year 1010, Berber troops sacked and burned Medina Azahara to the ground. During the centuries that followed, ruins of this once glorious city were constantly pillaged and plundered for the construction of buildings as far away as Marrakech. By the 15th century the vestiges of this forgotten city became known to locals as Córdoba La Vieja (Córdoba the Old or Old Córdoba.) Archaeological excavations began as late as 1911 and what remains today is only about 10% of what existed within the walled city; mainly about a third of the uppermost level comprised of the central area of the Alcázar.

Although the brilliance of Medina Azahara was short-lived, it stands as the most important in Andalusia (Southern Spain.) The once palatial city is the largest archaeological site of Muslim Spain today and is candidate for becoming a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2018. This honour would lead to increased visitors resulting in greater funding for the much needed exploration, preservation, and further restoration of the site.

I had the pleasure of walking though these ruins imagining what the Shining City must have been like in all its glory during the 10th century when it was known as La Perla de al-Andalus (The Pearl of Al-Andalus.) For those with a special interest in archaeology and architecture, Medina Azahara is not to be missed when visiting Andalusia.

If You Go:

As of spring 2017, nightly visits will be available when more than 800 LED lights will illuminate the entire complex. Two daily buses from Córdoba center take you to and from the site in about half an hour, however tickets must be purchased a day in advance. Tickets and guided tours are available at tourist information points. The site is closed on Mondays and their telephone number is (34) 957 329 130. For more information visit: www.medinaazahara.org

About the author:
Ana Ruiz was born in Spain and currently resides in Canada. Ruiz has worked as a journalist and columnist and is also the author of seven books including two on the history and culture of Spain; “Vibrant Andalusia” and “Medina Mayrit; the Origins of Madrid”. Visit: ana-ruiz.weebly.com

All photos by Ana Ruiz:
Dar al-Wuzara (House of the Viziers)
Northern wall ruins (where the tour commences)
The Great Oriental Portico (archway leading to the Alcázar)
Interior of the great Mosque of Córdoba
Inside the House of the Viziers

Eligibility and requirements for Spain citizenship by descent

Wild Parrots, 17 Beaches, and Rum!

by Barb Harmon

In the still of the early morning we strolled along the palm tree dotted seafront. To our right the Mediterranean Sea is calm – smooth as glass. To our left, the shop and restaurant owners hose off the sidewalks in front of their establishments preparing for a busy day.

As we chat, my husband and I stop midstep startled by a deafening roar above our heads. We look up but can’t see anything. Suddenly, a large group of screaming squawking parrots swoop out of the palm fronds. Bright green, vibrant yellow, I’ve never seen birds like this in the wild. A morning jogger approaches and points up to a tree top saying “those are Monk Parakeets. They are loud but harmless. Just watch your heads.”  At that point we knew our time in Sitges Spain would be anything but dull.

Located in the Catalan region, Sitges is 32 kilometers southwest of Barcelona by train. Only a half hour away but a world apart. Facing the Mediterranean, this former fishing village  was nicknamed the “Golden Shore” as it was a holiday spot for the wealthy. Now, it is a welcoming spot for everyone – singles, couples or families will feel welcome here. If you arrive by train you’ll notice the streets slope downward. Just head down and you will end up on the promenade by the coast.

There are 17 beaches spread over a four kilometer coastline. With a yearly average of 300 sunny days there are always sunbathers on the fine white sand beaches – summer or winter.

Perched on a rocky promontory high above the coastline is the Parish Church. The Church of Sant Bartomeu and Santa Tecla appears to sit guard above the Sea. Construction of the baroque church began in the 17th century and is built on the remains of a church from 1322. La Punta as it is called has the best view in town. When the sea is quiet vendors set up their wares on the steps that lead up to the church. If the sea is active, waves crash along the seawall and steps soaking you if you are standing too close to the edge. We escaped in the nick of time while others weren’t so fortunate.

There are cafes with patios close by where you can have a drink or snack while drying off. While sitting at one of these cafes, several couples that had been drenched while climbing the steps to La Punta sat down at the table next to ours and started removing wet garments. The waiter said “this is normal.”

We can thank Sitges for Bacardi Rum. The founder, Don Facundo Bacardi Masso was born here in 1814. He emigrated to Cuba in 1830 looking for a better life as many young men did at that time. In 1862 through trial and error, he developed a unique way to distill rum. His wife Amalia suggested the bat as the symbol for the product. She noticed bats in the distillery – easy to see as the rum is aged in white oak barrels. The symbol can be seen throughout the town. Bacardi is still a family owned business – the largest privately owned spirits company in the world. Take time to visit the Casa Bacardi Sitges Museum. You will experience the history of the brand, see how the product is made and of course sample the beverage.

While Sitges can be visited on a day trip from Barcelona, it is worth setting aside at least two days – three would be perfect. The narrow, twisting turning cobblestone streets from the middle ages are filled with inviting shops and restaurants. History and beauty can be viewed around every corner. When walking through town, take time to get off the beaten path and continue to the residential streets. The tree lined streets are quiet, the homes worthy of Architectural Digest. On a windy day when the ocean is churning you will hear the sound of waves crashing against the shore.

The perfect way to end a day is a walk along the promenade watching the sun sink into the horizon. This is a tradition. You’ll find families on their evening stroll, joggers getting in the last run of the day and couples walking hand in hand.

If You Go:

Museums

Casa Bacardi Sitges Museum
Placa de l’ Ajuntament 1
Tel: + 34 938 94 81 51
€9 adults
Students and seniors €6 with ID
Minors (under 18) free with a parent

Can Llopis Romanticism Museum
Built in 1793 as a private mansion, this museum shows what life was like as a wealthy citizen. It also houses a collection featuring hundreds of antique dolls and toys.
Carrer de Sant Gaudenci 1
+ 34 938 94 29 69
Admission: Varies according to the package purchased

Dining

Restaurant Pic Nic
Passeig de la Ribera
Tel: +34 938 11 00 40
Located on the Mediterranean, the view is majestic.

Accomodations

Sitges Tourism Information

Sitges Private Tour from Barcelona

About the author:
Barb Harmon’s love affair with travel began in high school as an exchange student in the Netherlands and continues to this day decades later. As empty nesters, she and her husband travel as often as possible looking for the next adventure. She is a member of ITWPA and ITWA. Visit her blog at www.chasingthenextchapter.com.

Photos by Barb Harmon:
Strolling along the promenade
Green Monk parakeet
Church of Sant Bartomeu and Santa Tecla
Bacardi symbol

Spain, Italy & Greece

by Matthew Adams 

The Mediterranean has a variety of intriguing historic destinations in Spain, Italy and Greece. One way you can visit some of those fascinating historical sites is via a cruise. Cruise ships usually stop at ports in Italy, Spain, France and Greece from which you visit some of the world’s greatest museums and historical architecture. This is a Crown Princess cruise I did to see some of the finest historic destinations.

Barcelona

Barcelona, in Catalonia, was the first stopping port. This is a historically significant city in its own right that includes some astonishing architecture. Its most notable architectural landmark is the Sagrada Familia, designed by Gaudi, that includes eight spires which will increase to 18 when construction of the church is complete.

I never went in the Sagrada Familia on my trip, but instead went to the Montserrat Monastery. This is a Benedictine abbey at the summit of the Montserrat mountain. As the mountain rises about 1,200 meters, it’s worth a trip just for the magnificent views alone. There you can also hike the Montserrat nature park that includes numerous hiking trails.

Pisa and Florence

On another stop I visited Pisa with a coach excursion. There I visited the Cathedral Square, a UNESCO heritage site, that is one of the greatest architectural complexes in Europe. That is largely due to the Leaning Tower of Pisa, which is a 183 foot tower with a slight lean of about four degrees. I briefly went in the Duomo cathedral, a masterpiece of Romesque architecture, before returning to the coach. However, the tour gave me little more than 30 minutes in Pisa.

Florence was the next stop on the tour. The historical significance of Florence lies in the Renaissance era, otherwise a cultural rebirth, that inspired a new breed of art and architecture in the city. So it’s not surprising that the Historic Center of Florence is another UNESCO heritage site.

I got a little more time in Florence than Pisa. So I went inside Florence Cathedral that is an effective blend of Italian Gothic, Renaissance and Gothic Revival architecture. The most striking aspect of this cathedral is its huge dome, which is the largest masonry dome ever constructed. I also visited the Ponte Vecchio bridge across the River Arno, which is another of Florence’s landmarks. The bridge retains some of its towers originally built as defensive structures.

Rome

As the capital of an empire that once dominated Europe, Rome has obvious historical significance. The city has preserved some of the finest buildings from the former empire. I took some snapshots of the Colosseum on my trip. I also went to the Pantheon, a remarkably preserved temple that has intriguing architecture. The temple has a coffered concrete dome with an oculus, or central opening, at its summit through which sunlight beams through. With that the Pantheon might have effectively been one giant sundial.

The next stop for the coach was the Vatican. The Vatican has been a separate city-state since fascist Italy established the Lateran Treaty. The Vatican Museums are among the largest in the world, and they include some of the most priceless Renaissance art. The museums showcase a multitude of sculptures, paintings, stone tablets and archeological relics dug up from excavations. Furthermore, visitors can also check out the St. Peter’s Basilica church at St Peter’s Square that also has fabulous Renaissance architecture.

I had a ticket specifically for the Sistine Chapel. That is another masterpiece of Renaissance art with its finely painted ceiling and numerous frescoes that decorate the interior. Finding the Sistine Chapel in the Vatican Museums is not easy, and you can get lost within the maze of corridors. A day at the Vatican would never be enough to effectively explore the immense museum collections. Nevertheless, I eventually found the chapel that was something to behold.

Gibraltar

Finally, the Crown Princess stopped at Gibraltar. This U.K. overseas territory is most notable for the Rock of Gibraltar, which is a limestone rock that rises about 1,398 feet. As the gateway to the Mediterranean, Gibraltar was a strategically vital outpost of the British Empire. Consequently, the British army dug a series of tunnels through the rock where it could store armaments and munitions. The tunnels also protected troops from coastal and aerial bombardments. Britain dug the most extensive Gibraltar tunnels during the 1940s that were expansive enough to accommodate a garrison of 16,000 troops.

I made the trip up the rock for the terrific Mediterranean views. I also entered the entrance of the tunnels of Gibraltar, which are otherwise the Great Siege Tunnels. In addition, I stopped at St. Michael’s Cave, which is a network of limestone caves. There I went inside the Cathedral Cave that includes an auditorium for concerts and drama productions.

Thereafter, I returned to Blighty. What better way to ‘travel through history’ than a European cruise? You can visit many of Europe’s finest historic venues in Italy, Spain or Greece with coach excursions from cruise ports. The only disadvantage is that some coach trips might only give you a very limited time period at a destination.

If You Go:

Pantheon
Vatican Museums
Leaning Tower of Pisa
Great Siege Tunnels
St. Michael’s Cave
Montserrat

Pisa and Florence Private Day Trip from Livorno

About the author:
Matthew is a freelancer who has produced a variety of articles for various publications and websites such as Swing Golf Magazine, TripAdvisor, Naval History, Artilleryman, dotTech, Bright Hub, Coed Magazine the Washington Post and Vagabundo Travel. Matthew is also the author of Battles of the Pacific War 1941 – 1945. Check out the book’s blog at battlesofthepacificwar.blogspot.co.uk.

All photos are by Matthew Adams:
The Benedictine abbey at Montserrat
The Duomo and Leaning Tower of Pisa at Pisa
The Pantheon in Rome
A snapshot of the Rock of Gibraltar at Gibraltar

The ground shakes with the ominous beat of drums. Passing by us are legions of solemn Roman soldiers, animal-skin clad barbarians with painted faces and colourful shields, ferocious gladiators wearing appropriate sandals, dancing maidens, priests, soothsayers and toga covered senators. We find ourselves in the midst of a Romans and Carthaginians Festival. This spectacle is held every year to celebrate the vibrant history of the strategic port city of Cartagena, Spain.

Cartagena has more than 2,000 years of history. The Romans and Carthaginians Festival is a remembrance of the second Punic War, beginning with the foundation of Qart Hadast, the name given to Cartagena by the Phoenicians in 228 BC, and ending with its capture by the Romans in 209 BC. The Romans named the city Carthago Nova (the New Carthage)

Throughout the last ten days of September, battles are re-enacted, ancient ceremonies held and troops in full battle dress march through the streets of Cartagena. The Carthaginian and Roman armies arrive by sea in a dramatic display and then march through town to an encampment set up on the football field. We are fortunate to witness part of this event during an enchanting evening I will never forget.

The costumes and attention to historic detail are amazing. It is as if all the citizens of Cartagena are in costume for the event. And like everything in Spain, the entire family is involved. Men, woman and children take on roles as Roman soldiers and barbarian hordes. The tradesfolk who followed the armies serving their needs are also represented. Bakers, butchers, blacksmiths, potters and entertainers are interspersed between armies following standard bearers. Elaborate floats depicting Roman villas and amphitheatres and even an elephant from Hannibal’s army pass by while we are entertained by a snake handler, a joker, a conjurer and a soothsayer.   My excitement grows when monks appear leading massive bulls through the narrow streets lined with onlookers. An ancient high priest rewards me with a huge smile after I take his picture.

There are many photo ops at these events. Arriving early affords you an opportunity to wander among the participants as they prepare for the parade. They are only too are happy to pose for you, or with you, as they proudly show off their costumes. It is easy to get caught up in the excitement. I stare in awe at the ultimate gladiator sandals gracing the tanned feet of a well-toned gladiator. Now, where can I get a pair like that?

The ambience makes me feel part of history as it is brought to life.

If You Go:

Cartagena is located on the Mediterranean coast in south-eastern Spain.
Alicante International Airport is 116 kilometers from Cartagena.
The closest airport is Murcia’s San Javier airport, 30 kilometers from Cartagena.
There are no direct buses to Cartagena from the San Javier airport; many hire a car at the airport and drive the 20 minutes into town. A taxi costs around €40.
Once there, inexpensive tour buses are available to take you to see the many historic sites of the city. There are also boat tours of the harbour. It is also a great city to explore by foot.
Check the website for the dates and schedule of the Romans and Carthaginians Festival held at the end of September every year.

About the author:
Darlene Foster is a dedicated writer and traveler. She is the author of a series of books featuring Amanda, a spunky young girl who loves to travel to interesting places such as the United Arab Emirates, Spain, England, Alberta and Eastern Europe, where she always has an exciting adventure. Darlene divides her time between the west coast of Canada and the Costa Blanca of Spain when she isn’t  exploring the world. Visit darlenefoster.ca.

All photos by Darlene Foster

Squeezed in among the expectant crowd on the Plaza del Ayuntamiento in Valencia, Spain, I knew I was about to watch an explosion. I did not anticipate the teeth tingling, throat vibrating, ground shaking impact of over 200 pounds of gunpowder going off in what the tourist brochures describe as a “perfectly synchronized rhythmic symphony of noise finishing with a 20 second grand finale.” The daily 2 PM explosion called Mascleta is a tradition of the city’s March Fallas Festival; a noisy, colorful nineteen day event that begins on March 1st and ends after midnight on March 19th, St Joseph’s Feast Day, which is where the celebration has its more humble beginnings.

Fallas is an opportunity for local artists and craftspeople of to showcase their talents and that includes the pyro-technicians responsible for Mascleta and the nightly fireworks shows which are part of the festivities. Also the cooks who make bunuelos, the pumpkin fritters that are a Fallas specialty; the brass band musicians and dancers and the seamstresses who create the elaborate traditional costumes seen on the streets.

But the original artistic stars of Fallas are the designers, carpenters, painters, mold-makers and technicians who create and assemble life-size and larger figurines called ninots onto neighborhood platforms in scenes that depict all manner of political and satirical statements. A scene of ninots is called a fallas which is how the festival got its name and the fallas aren’t on full display until the final three days of the festival when their artistic teams have a designated window of time to fully assemble their creations. There are only a few days for the public to wander Valencia to view all 500-700 ninots before the final act of Fallas, the burning of all the ninots in a fire known as Crema which occurs on March 19th.

It was in the 18th century that early versions of ninots became part of the celebration of the Feast Day of St Joseph, the patron saint of carpenters and craftsmen in the Catholic religion. Craftsmen would traditionally sweep out their shops of wood scraps accumulated over the winter on St Joseph’s Day, a symbolic end to the winter and welcoming of spring. Their large T-shaped candleholders called parots would get propped in front of buildings (or suspended as puppets between buildings) dressed as figures that represented some injustice that had occurred during the previous year.

Those simple early ninots have evolved into magnificent wax and polystrene figurines that require such precise skills that the artists who create them now have their own guild, The Guild of Falleros Artists; at least two schools who specialize in training them; two museums dedicated to their work and a part of Valencia known as Cuidad del Artisto Fallera (the City of Falleros Artists) where many of them have full-time workshops.

To find out more about the art of creating a fallas, begin at the Museo del Artista Fallero located in City of Falleros Artists in the quiet Benicalap district northwest of Vallencia’s historic quarter. The museum is open year round from 10AM – 2PM and 4PM – 7PM Monday – Friday and Saturdays from 10AM – 2PM. There’s a small auditorium in the back of the main floor and if you ask the museum staff they’re happy to show you the video (available in multiple languages) that traces the evolution of the process of building ninots from its humble beginnings in the 18th century to the complex craft it is today.

Then wander the two story museum to see the process for yourself. There are examples of early water color and pencil sketches (the first step in the process as the ninots must be approved by the neighborhood committees who ultimately pay for their creation); scale models of the fallas, examples of the wooden skeletons on which the larger ninots are constructed and the final product including the previous year’s favorite ninot voted on by the public. The talents of the Falleros artists are in high demand and many of them have been internationally commissioned to design movie and theatre sets, displays for industry and trade shows and other museums.

Turn left when exiting the front door of the museum and wander among the industrial buildings housing the workshops of many of the artists. I was there the first week in March and many of the workshop doors were open with artists putting the final touches on their Fallas creations. I asked permission from the working artists to go inside their workshops and take photos and though my Spanish didn’t fully appreciate the tours they gave me, their evident pride in their work and my appreciation for it crossed language barriers.

One of the largest workshops belonged to Manolo Garcia whose team had been selected to create the 2016 fallas monument representing the City of Valencia displayed in the Plaza del Ayuntamiento; the one subjected to the blasts of the daily Mascleta of gunpowder explosion and traditionally the last fallas to get burned in the fire on March 19th.

The scale model and the massive pieces of the scene in the workshop did not do justice to the full scale of the monument as it was being constructed. Because of its sheer size, much of the actual carpentry happened in the plaza where the public could watch its daily progress. The monument, called Fallas of the World, consisted of a tall wooden human figure surrounded by world “monuments” that had been part of previous years’ fallas structures – the EIffel Tower, the Statue of Liberty, the Concorde jet, the statues of David and Moses.

Equally large and impressive fallas monuments could be found throughout the city in the neighborhoods who had commissioned them. The most impressive were lit up at night which is one of the best times to appreciate their artistic creativity. Festum Bacchas, a large scale monument showing the life cycle of the area’s wine industry cost 90,000 Euros to build and display according to a member of the neighborhood committee. The committees work all year raising money in a variety of events to pay for their fallas monuments to show their neighborhood pride in Fallas and in hopes of producing a winning monument from the judges who only have two days to see and judge the completed structures.

Each committee selects one of the ninots from their fallas to display in the Exposition of the Ninots, held this year in the Prince Felipe Museum in the City of Arts and Sciences. For 38 days (in 2016 from February 5 – March 15) members of the public (including tourists) can wander through the display of ninots and cast a vote for the one that should be saved from the fire. Called the Ninot Indultant, the tradition of saving one figure from the fire first became a tradition in the 1930s in response to public sentiment that something should be saved to commemorate the artistic effort of that year’s fallas artists.

In 2016 it was a ninot from the Festum Bacchas fallas that the public voted to save; a farmer playng a guitar while a small girl and her dog listen. In addition to the Museo del Artisto Falleros, the city has a second museum open year round dedicated to Fallas called the Museo Falleros where all of the ninots indultants saved from the fire since 1934 are on display. The progression of technology and art over the years is evident in the chronology of ninots. The early ninots were wooden and paper mache figures dressed in real clothing. As the artists began to use wax, clay and cardboard, polyester and then polystrene, the ninots got more complex and the fallas monuments more extravagant.

The art of the Fallas Artist Guild can be appreciated any time of the year by visiting both museums, but to see it in its full glory, it really must be seen during Fallas and in particular, in the three days leading up to March 19th. If you are not a fan of the high decibel noise of the daily Mascleta and the miniature neighborhood mascletas that seem to occur all day and much of the night in the final week, then finding accommodations outside the historic city center is advised. Bus and metro transportation run frequently and you can just wander the city’s streets where you’ll find a fallas on most street corners. Ask locals for the best fallas to see since you won’t be able to see all of them. And don’t get too attached; they all go up in flames on March 19th save one ninot indultant. By the morning of March 20th, the streets have been cleaned of burnt debris as though nothing was there. But the artists of Fallas Artist Guild are busy planning their creations for the following year.

Valencia Private Food and Wine Tour

If You Go:

♦ Accommodations in Valencia are in demand and expensive during the three week March Las Fallas Festival so be sure to book early. There are several hotels, hostels and Air B&B rentals in the historical district. Next to the historic district is the trendy Russafa district where you will find the ABCYOU Bed and Breakfast at about $70 per night (more during the Fallas Festival) and a variety of restaurants, coffee shops and art galleries.

♦ Getting there: Valencia’s well-served airport is 5 miles from the city with a regular metro that runs between the airport and the historic district. It’s an easy two hour trip on the high speed AVE train from Madrid to Valencia.

♦ Other activities: In addition to the two Fallas museums, Valencia has a wide range of other museums including the beautiful Ceramic Museum in a historic Baroque building, the ultra-modern Museum of Science, an archaeological museum (the city began as a Roman fortress) and a Rice Museum. There are parks, gardens and the open green space of Turis Park for biking and walking. The city is on the Mediterranean with its beaches, hotels and restaurants that are a very different scene then the historic old town. Valencia is the birthplace of paella and you can learn to cook Valencia’s specialty paella at Escuela de Arroces y Paella.

About the author:
Ann Randall is a well-traveled international election observer and independent traveler who now spends at least two months annually venturing to out of the way locales from Azerbaijan to Zimbabwe. She has recently taken up travel sketching as a way to savor the journey in an attempt to see if pictures really do speak a thousand words. A former high school teacher and staff for an educators’ union in Washington State, she now consults and trains for an eco-tour company in Costa Rica; observes international elections and does NGO volunteer work. Her articles have appeared in Travel Post Monthly, EcoTeach Online, Yonderbound and Viking Magazine. She blogs about her travels at www.peregrinewoman.com

Photo credits:
First photo by Enric Cuenca Yxeres / CC BY-SA
All other photos are by Ann Randall

by Ana Ruiz 

“Stay calm and don’t look out the window!” I say to myself on the uphill bus ride from Málaga to Ronda in Spain. The remarks of some nervous tourists and the high speed of the fearless bus driver do not help. Nevertheless, I gaze in awe at the precipitous drops and cliffs on the left side of my window. One of these roads (the A-397) is considered as one of the ‘black spots’ of Málaga roads with its 365 curves, although it is a favourite for daring motorcyclists.

The sun is just setting behind the Serranía de Ronda (Ronda Mountain Range) and an hour and a half later, we arrive, relieved and unscathed.

Situated in the province of Málaga, Ronda is celebrated for its spectacular mountainous scenery. Cliff-hanging houses perch upon a 400 foot gorge known as El Tajo (The Deep Cut) created by the Rio Guadalevín that flows through the center dividing the town in half. The river’s name is derived from the Arabic, Wadj al-Labin (River Valley of the Milk) because of the white bubbles and milky foam created by the streams and tributaries that gave it life. Something magical happens in Ronda when winds are so powerful that drops of water from the Guadalevín actually reach the bridge giving the appearance of raining upside down.

Ronda is one of the oldest cities in Spain first settled by the Celts around the 10th century BCE as Arunda. The town continued to thrive under the Romans as did the nearby settlement of Acinipo originally founded by the Phoenicians. Today, ruins of a vast Roman theatre and thermal baths dated to the 1st century can be visited about 12 miles northwest from Ronda in the ancient city of Acinipo or, as it is locally known, Ronda La Vieja (Old Ronda.)

The Moors arrived at Arunda during the early 8th century and renamed it Hisn Arunda (Fortress of Arunda.) By the late 9th century, it was known as the Madinat Arunda (City of Arunda) and two centuries later functioned as an important capital of a Taifa (Moorish Kingdom.) Ruins from this once fortified town can still be appreciated today in the form of defensive wall vestiges and well-preserved gates dated to the 12th – 13th centuries. The most impressive are the fortified walls on the eastern part of the city known as La Cijara high up in the rocky plateau. The main entrance to the medina was through the triple-arched gate known as La Puerta de Almocábar. The name is derived from the Arabic, al-maqabir (the cemetery) as the gate was situated by the main burial grounds that stood outside the walled city.

Ronda is the birthplace of the highly gifted 9th century Muslim Andalusí physician, mathematician, and engineer known as Abbas ibn Firnas. Of Berber descent, Firnas was also an illustrious inventor creating such ingenious devices as a water clock, a mechanized planetarium, an armillary sphere, and even a flying machine (for this reason, he is known as the “father of aviation.”) Firnas was also skilled in astronomy, music, and poetry as well as being responsible for introducing glass-making techniques to al-Andalus (Andalusia during Muslim Spain.) Today, he has an airport in northern Baghdad and a lunar crater named in his honour as well as a bridge in Córdoba where he died in 887.

The town of Ronda is connected by three bridges that cross the deep canyon adding to the city’s remarkable features. The Roman Bridge is the oldest dating to the 11th century. Although it is Arabic in origin, it was likely constructed over an older Roman bridge. After the Christian conquest it was renamed Puente de San Miguel (St. Michaels Bridge.) Not far away is the early 17th century Puente Viejo (Old Bridge) and smallest of the three. As it was built over the ruins of an old Arab bridge, it is also known as Puente Árabe.

But the most impressive bridge is the striking Puente Nuevo (New Bridge.) This colossal architectural work, built during the second half of the 18th century, plunges over 300 feet into the canyon. From here you can also admire the incomparable views over the Serranía de Ronda Mountains and the picturesque white-washed houses overlooking the canyon.

After crossing this bridge, I wander the charming old Moorish quarter with its winding pedestrian streets, white-washed houses, and historic squares. Locally known as La Ciudad (The City), the old quarter is situated on the south side of the gorge as opposed to the newer city on the north. Not for from Puente Nuevo in the historic quarter is an interesting gate known as Arco de Felipe V (Arch of Philip V.) This emblematic arch or gate, crowned by three pinnacles, was reconstructed in 1742 from the old Arab gate that provided access to the medina by the southwest.

The first Moorish site on my itinerary is the 13th century Bańos Arabes (Arab Baths) located near the Arco de Felipe V. The public baths were traditionally situated outside the walled city where visitors, adhering to Muslim customs, cleansed and purified themselves before entering the city. Typical of this period, the Moorish architecture displayed the traditional Islamic-shaped supporting horseshoe arches and domed ceiling embellished with skylights in the shape of stars that magnificently illuminated the room. Used until the beginning of the 17th century, these Arab Baths are considered as the best preserved in the Iberian Peninsula and possibly Europe.

Next I decide to visit the 14th century Alminar (minaret) of San Sebastián in the old Moorish quarter. The impressive square tower is all that remains of a mosque that once stood here before it was destroyed and rebuilt by the Christians. The lower part is clearly Moorish in architecture while the top part was added by the Christians to house the bell tower of the San Sebastián Church that also once stood here.

Near the minaret is the early 14th century Casa de Mondagrón that is also well worth visiting. The stone palace, promoted as “probably the most important civil monument in Ronda”, was the former residence of a king and its last Muslim governor. In 1485, Ronda was captured by the Christians and a few years later, King Fernando and Queen Isabella also made this palace their home. Although restored and enlarged during the 18th century, the exterior pales in comparison to the beauty of its interior adorned with arched patios, ceramic tiles, marble columns, balconies overlooking at inner courtyards, decorated fountains and water gardens. Today it also houses an auditorium and a municipal museum on the second floor.

Ronda has its own particular palo (style of Flamenco song and guitar) that originated here during the early 19th century. This form, known as a Rondeńa, is considered to be the oldest of the fandangos of Málaga. For over 60 years Ronda has been home to one of the oldest Flamenco festivals in the province and one of the longest running in Andalusia that takes place every August.

Ronda is also the birthplace of bullfighting. Not only was the first professional bullfighter born here in 1754 but it is also home of the oldest and largest bullfighting ring in the country dated to 1785. Another unique and unusual aspect of Ronda is their fascination with bandoleros (bandits); particularly those between the 18th and 19th centuries.

Bandits were numerous in this town as the surrounding, secluded mountainous landscape provided ample hidden spots from unsuspecting victims and the reach of authorities. These highway robbers and tobacco smugglers came to be regarded by the lower classes as heroes who took from the wealthy and gave to the poor. A few select have been elevated to legendary status. In the heart of the city stands the only museum in the country dedicated to the history and folklore of local bandits, Museo Del Bandolero (Museum of the Bandit.)

A solo traveler, I found plenty of fascinating sites to visit and explore all within walking distance. It is no wonder that Ronda is promoted as the “Ciudad Sońada” or “Dreamed City”.

Ronda and White Villages Guided Day Tour from Seville

If You Go:

Málaga airport is the closest at 65 miles away. Ronda is easily accessible by bus or train from anywhere in the country. Prepare to do a lot of walking and bundle up in the winter as it can get cold near the mountains.

For more information in several languages visit: www.turismoderonda.es

About the author:
Ana Ruiz was born in Madrid and travels to Spain each spring. She currently resides in Montreal teaching dance and Spanish conversation classes. Ruiz has also worked as a journalist and columnist and is also the author of two books on Spanish history and culture; “Vibrant Andalusia” and “Medina Mayrit; the Origins of Madrid”. Visit: www.ana-ruiz.weebly.com

All photos by Ana Ruiz and artwork by her father, Manuel Ruiz:
Almocábar Gate
El Tajo
White-washed houses over cliff
Puente Viejo
“Puente Nuevo” by Manuel Ruiz (1950)
Arch of Philip V
Arab Baths
Flamenco at Museo Lara in the historic quarter
“Ronda” by Manuel Ruiz (1950)

Spain: Galicia’s Most Famous Poetess

by Inka Piegsa-Guischotte

Before I set off on my three week trip to Galicia, Spain’s green, wet and wild northern province, I had a vague idea who Rosalia de Castro was, but none whatsoever about a place called Padron.

By the time I hit Santiago de Compostella, I was very familiar with Rosalia and her work. Everywhere in Galicia you find statues or other reminders of the province’s most famous poetess of the late 19th century.

I had also learned that she had lived in Padron. Thanks to the literary minded owner of a small café where I used to have my breakfast, I found out, that Padron was just an hour’s train ride away in the direction of Pontevedra. What’s more, she told me that the house is a beautiful little museum with exquisite gardens and that Padron is also the birthplace of Spanish Nobel laureate Camilo Jose Cela and home to his foundation. There must be something in the air in this place to produce not one but two literary geniuses.

Still, my main interest was Rosalia de Castro. Even before I went to Galicia, I was familiar with the idiosyncratic concept of moriña. It’s best translated as a deeply felt longing of every Galego for his home and roots. An example: a Galego who has to move to – say – Madrid, considers himself an ex-pat. Another word for moriña is saludade and that’s also the Leitmotiv of Rosalia’s work.

Her merits not only lie in the quality of her poems and novels, but also in the fact that she was the first to write literature in Galego, at the time much despised as a primitive dialect by the rest of Spain.

Moreover, although basically a romantic, she strongly opposed abuse of authority and was a strong defender of women’s rights. And she made her voice heard. Married to Manuel Murgia, a historian, academic and journalist, she had seven children despite a very fragile health. She died at age 48 in 1885 in her home in Padron.

As my train slowed, reaching the small station of Padron, I could already see the house across the railway tracks and immediately understood how this dwelling could have inspired her writing, at the same time giving her the safe surroundings she needed.

The stone cottage is visible, but only just, above the garden full of trees and flowers which Rosalia tended herself. She used to sit among blooming camellia bushes on a carved stone bench and dream up new poems. The whole scene is so romantic that one feels like writing a love poem there and then.

Rosalia and her husband weren’t rich, but they weren’t poor either and the house reflects that. An internationally acclaimed and recognized writer and poetess, even during her much too short lifetime, she raised her children and did her housework herself.

The kitchen with its woodstove and iron kettles looks no different to any other farmhouse kitchen at the time. Her bedroom is spartan, still with her clothes hanging in the closet. Next door is her study with the desk and writing utensils. I wished I could just have sat down, hoping to be infused by her creative spirit.

The ground floor is dedicated to the Rosalia de Castro Foundation, full of documents, photographs , awards and certificates of recognition from countries as different as Japan and South America.

There is just one lady attending to visitors and she is a huge Rosalia fan. At the time I visited, I was the only one there and she talked to me at length and even recited parts of Rosalia’s most famous poem: Cantos Galegos. Thankfully she did so in Spanish and not Galego.

If You Go:

♦ Padron is easily reached from either La Coruña or Santiago de Compostela by car or, better, train. Bear in mind the closing during siesta, but you can beautifully fill the hours in Padron.

♦ The center of town is reached crossing and old stone bridge and just beyond lies a tropical garden and park. Opposite is a restaurant which serves Galego specialties at very reasonable prices.

♦ Admission to the Rosalia de Castro House Museum is free and the opening times are:
– July to September: 10am to 2pm and 4pm to 8pm
– Rest of the year: 10am to 1:30pm and 4pm to 7pm
– Mondays closed, Sundays and bank holidays open 10am to 1:30pm

♦ A donation is appreciated if you want to or else you can buy pretty editions of her books.

♦ And then you can walk a little further and pay homage to the other literary great of Padron: the library, museum and foundation of Camilo J. Cela.

♦ Padron features some interesting modern sculptures of Galego musicians around the market square.

♦ When traveling in Galicia be prepared to find notes and explanation in Galego. Sometimes there isn’t even a Spanish version, leave alone an English one. But someone speaking English is never far away and they will be pleased to help you.

Galicia & North of Portugal, 6 days from Madrid

About the author:
Inka Piegsa-quischotte is an ex-attorney turned travel writer and novelist. She writes for online travel magazines and has two novels and a travel guide to Galicia/Spain published. She lives in Spain.

Photo credits:
Facade of Rosalía de Castro Museum in Iria Flavia, Padrón, Galicia, Spain by Iago Pillado / CC BY-SA
All other photos are by Inka Piegsa-quischotte.