Fairhaven, Washington

by Chris Herbert

Daniel Jefferson Harris founded Fairhaven Washington with visions of the Great Northern Railway terminus dancing in his head. But while his dream of a town built around a railway that would service the coal and fishing industries never materialized we are thankful for his foresight. The historic town of Fairhaven Village sits on beautiful Bellingham Bay that is named for Sir William Bellingham who in 1792 traveled the west coast under he command of George Vancouver.

Founded in the 1880s by Dirty Dan Harris as he was known because of his somewhat less then scrupulous dealings, we only discovered this charming town a few years ago. Since then we have returned on numerous occasions. Fairhaven Village is an easy day trip from anywhere in Metro Vancouver by car or from Vancouver by train. If you are traveling from Victoria B.C. this historic town is a three-hour Washington State passenger ferry ride away.

It was the Canadian Thanksgiving weekend. After a feast of turkey with all the fixings and Mom’s homemade apple pie, we said goodbye to the family. It was early Sunday morning when we climbed out of bed and headed out from Abbotsford entering the U.S. at the Sumas border crossing.

“What is the purpose of your trip?” Asked the rather large and grim looking U.S. border guard as he glanced at our passports and back at us from behind his reflective Aviator style sunglasses. “A getaway trip to Fairhaven Village.” We replied. “A nice meal and a day at the spa.” We added. “Have a good time.” He said with a tip of his khaki Stetson. I’m fairly sure that I saw the beginning of a smile crosses his face. My guess is that he too had spent time in Fairhaven Village.

Wait times at the Canada/U.S. border can vary greatly but on this day we were through in less than ten minutes and on our way south along Meridian Way (Route 539). It is a rural drive and we pass recently harvested raspberry fields, jersey cows grazing in the fall sun and young colts galloping across the farmer’s fields.

After a quick stop in neighbouring Bellingham for some of our favorite Oregon cheese we make the short drive to historic Fairhaven arriving just before noon. Total travel time about one hour and fifteen minutes.

Often we go to Fairhaven for the day but on this occasion we decided to overnight at our favorite boutique hotel and spa. “Welcome back.” We step through the front door of our hotel and the front desk clerk greets us. A sense of calm washes over me. Something about this hotel makes me want to curl up on one of the oversized couches in front of the fireplace with a good book and veg out. We joke that they must be pumping something intoxicating through the venting.

We settle into our room over looking the bay and decide to take the ten-minute leisurely walk along South Bay Trail to the village. At least that is how long it should take, but Islay our Westie was having none of that stopping numerous times along the way to check out a new “sniff ”. Much smarter then her human companions when it comes to these things, our Terrier instinctively knows how to enjoy the day. So following our puppy’s lead we too stop to enjoy some of the beautiful gardens along the way. We aren’t alone as many walkers, their dogs as well as cyclists use the trail to travel between Fairhaven and Bellingham.

The fishing industry in this part of the west coast was at it’s peak in the early 1900s and remnants are visible all along Bellingham Bay. Reminders such as pylons that once supported a cannery jut out of the bay at low tide. The remains of a workshop its metal siding rusted by years of neglect and exposure to the weather sit precariously on the banks edge. It’s not difficult to imagine the sights, sounds and smells have long gone fishers off loading their catch where it would be readied for the market.

Islay is busy checking out a raccoon family hiding under the abandoned shed while we stop to read the inscription on the stone plaque that marks what was once the border between Fairhaven and Old Bellingham prior to the two towns merger in 1888.

Situated on a gently sloping hillside, the main streets are mostly level and are fairly easy to maneuver for walkers of any age and ability. And we do, walk that is. Whether it’s eating on an outside patio in front of a heritage building, visiting a book shop or the outdoor cinema at the Fairhaven Village Green everything we want to see and do is located in an eight square block area. When we feel the need for a break from our wandering a bench is never far away, or we stop at a sidewalk cafe or a gelato shop for a tasty treat.

Our first stop in town is a deli-bakery with an excellent menu. After a lunch of the soup of the day and a delicious turkey sandwich we are re-energized. I loosen my belt a notch (their servings can feed a small army) and we move on.

While Fairhaven has seen a bit of a building boom the old town flavour is evident everywhere. There are a few newer buildings but most brick or sandstone structures are from the late 1800‘s through the early 1900‘s. The Terminal building is the oldest still standing and since it was built in 1888 has housed everything from a grocery store to a saloon. Next door to it is a steak house that bears the name of the town’s founder.

Fairhaven celebrates its artisans and our list of favorite haunts include an artist gift shop and a woodworking co-operative and because the grand kids are never far from our thoughts a children’s toys hop. Whether we are buying or simply browsing the merchants always make us feel welcome and in fact special.

Fairhaven Village is an old town with a young feeling. I think that is in part because of the influence of the neighbouring Western Washington University, the local artists and some innovative restaurants.

To quickly the day has passed and it’s time to return to our hotel for our spa appointments and dinner reservations. “How was your treatment?” Asks our front desk clerk as we pass through the lobby dressed in our spa robes, no doubt looking very contented. I pause and on a whim ask her. “Is our room available for another night?” She smiles, no doubt having seen that contented look before. “No problem.“ She says. “It’s all been taken care of.”

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If You Go:

If you are driving from Metro Vancouver by car, you can cross the border at the Peace Arch crossing and take the I-5 but I recommend that you cross the Canada/U.S. border at the Pacific crossing and follow Route 539 (Meridian Way) or Sumas crossing taking Route 9 to 539 (Meridian Way). Either of these is a pleasant drive.

For directions and border crossing updates go to www.wsdot.wa.gov

The Amtrak rail service currently has two trains a day from Vancouver to Fairhaven Village (Bellingham) www.amtrak.com

The Washington State Ferry service runs a summer time passenger ferry from Victoria to Fairhaven. (Bellingham) www.washingtonferries.com

Accommodations in Fairhaven include The Fairhaven Village Inn www.fairhavenvillageinn.com and our favorite place The Chrysalis Inn and Spa www.thechrysalisinn.com

For general information, a good site to check out before you go is www.fairhaven.com

About the author:
Chris Herbert has been a closet writer for a long time. In recent years he has combined his writing passion with his travel adventures. You can read his articles in Postcards in the Vancouver Sun and an upcoming story in Seniors Living. Next on the travel agenda… Northern Spain.

All photos are by Chris Herbert.

Oysterville, Washington

by Perry P. Perkins

Chinook Indians gathered for centuries along the Long Beach Peninsula to harvest oysters and other seafood. They called it “tsako-te~hahsh-eetl” or “place of the red-topped grasses.”

In 1854, while thousands of prospectors were streaming into California in hope of finding gold, a young sailor named R.H. Espy was searching for his own treasure far up the northern coast. He became lost while navigating Washington’s then uncharted Shoalwater Bay and, in a heavy fog, Espy and his men feared they would paddle out to sea and never be seen again. Fortunately, the local Indian Chief spotted them and led them safely to shore.

On that shore, Espy found his treasure in the form of vast clusters of native oysters growing along the unclaimed mudflats of the bay. In San Francisco, hungry treasure-hunters paid fifty-dollars a plate for oysters, and soon Espy staked his claim and hit his mother-lode. The oystermen were paid in gold, and soon Oysterville became the second richest city on the West Coast.

Today, tiny Oysterville is a National Historic District, and fresh oysters can still be found in Shoalwater (now Willapa) Bay. A number of small, family owned farms spurn the use of dredging a pesticides used by the larger corporations, and harvest fresh, deliciously organic oysters daily.

My family and I visit Oysterville often, and we love everything about this tiny town that time forgot. So much so, in fact, that two of my novels are based there. We get our oysters, hand-harvested, directly from the bay.

Oyster Recipe:

Here’s one of my favorite recipes for those who truly love oysters.
The combination of spicy sauces and the icy brine of a fresh bi-valve is simply amazing.

FIRE & ICE OYSTERS
MAKES 2 servings
PREP 15 minutes COOK 6 minutes

12 Pacific or Kumamoto oysters, raw. Whole or on the half shell.
1 cup ketchup
2 tablespoons prepared horseradish
1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Dash of hot sauce
Freshly ground black pepper
3 teaspoons wasabi mustard

1. Mix all ingredients except oysters and wasabi mustard together; refrigerate for several hours to let flavors blend.
2. Buy Pacific or Kumamoto oysters raw on the half shell, or shuck live oysters yourself.
3. Prepare a dish with something to hold oyster shells in place, such as coarse salt, or crushed ice.
4. Top each oyster with a teaspoon of cocktail sauce, then 1/4 teaspoon of wasabi mustard. Serve immediately.

Buy Fresh, Wild, Blue Point Oysters Online

HOW TO SHUCK AN OYSTER

Rinse oysters in cold running water before opening. Hold oyster cup side down and hinge pointed toward you.
1. Insert oyster knife at hinge slowly but firmly and push the knife between the shells. Use a slight side to side rocking movement with your knife as you push in.
2. Work tip of knife into the oyster (about 1/2″), and twist the handle to pop oyster open.
4. Slice muscle from top shell.
5. Open top shell, and cut muscle from bottom cup. Leave the oyster in the bottom cup, being careful not to spill the liquor.
Turn the meat over for most professional appearance.

If You Go:

Here are a few “can’t miss” spots in and around Oysterville:

Leadbetter State Park
Three miles north of Oysterville (off Sandridge Road) is Leadbetter State Park, a wildlife refuge at Long Beach Peninsula’s northernmost tip and a great spot for bird-watching, hiking, and collecting sand-dollars along its isolated beaches.
www.funbeach.com/attractions/leadbetter.html

Moby Dick Hotel & Oyster Farm
For an amazing meal, in a historic setting, call ahead and make dinner reservations at The Moby Dick Hotel. Of course, you’ll want to order the oysters, which are organically grown on the Moby’s private beds.
360-665-4543 – mobydickhotel.com

Wiegardt Studio Gallery
If art is your thing, you’ve come to the right place! Stop by Wiegardt Studio Gallery to take a look at one of the very best Oysterville’s art community has to offer.
888-848-2053 – www.ericwiegardt.com

Oysterville Sea Farms
No trip to Oysterville would be complete without a stop at Oysterville Sea Farms. Located bayside, they offer clams and oysters that are harvested that same day. It’s doesn’t get any fresher than this. Oh, and say “hi” to Dan the Oysterman for me!
360-665-6585 – www.willabay.com

For more about food, fun, and adventure in Oysterville, visit: www.funbeach.com

About the author:
Novelist, blogger, and award winning travel writer, Perry P. Perkins is a stay-at-home dad who lives with his wife Victoria and their year-old daughter Grace, in the Pacific Northwest. A student of Jerry B. Jenkins Christian Writer’s Guild, his novels include Just Past Oysterville, Shoalwater Voices, and The Light at the End of the Tunnel. Perry has written for dozens of magazines and anthologies, and his inspirational stories have been included in 11 Chicken Soup anthologies as well. Examples of his published work can be found online at www.perryperkinsbooks.com, and on his SAHD blog: www.ricecereal.wordpress.com. Email: perry@perryperkinsbooks.com

Photographs:
First oysters photo by GoodEats YQR on Unsplash
All other photos are by Perry P. Perkins.