by Emelie Sater

As I stepped foot on the sun-kissed land of Alanya, Antalya, Turkey, I knew I was about to embark on an adventure of a lifetime. The promise of enchanting landscapes, rich history, and warm hospitality had lured me to this captivating Mediterranean destination. My heart brimming with excitement, I set out to explore the hidden gems of Alanya, eager to weave my story in the rich tapestry of this charming city.

From the moment I arrived, Alanya cast its spell upon me. The azure waters of the Mediterranean Sea gently lapped against the pristine shoreline, inviting me to delve into its refreshing embrace.

As the waves crashed against the ancient city walls, I found myself mesmerized by the breathtaking juxtaposition of history and nature.

I began my journey at Alanya Castle, perched high upon a rocky hill overlooking the town. The ancient walls told tales of a bygone era, transporting me back to the times of the Seljuk Sultanate. The panoramic views from the top were simply awe-inspiring, painting a vivid picture of the city’s transformation over the centuries.

Descending from the heights of the castle, I strolled through the narrow, winding streets of Alanya’s old town, known as Kaleici.

The labyrinthine alleys were brimming with colorful houses, boutique shops, and charming cafes. Every step seemed to reveal a new secret, and I gladly lost myself in the timeless charm of this historic district.

One of the highlights of my trip was visiting the Red Tower, Alanya’s iconic landmark. Standing tall against the passage of time, this striking octagonal tower showcased the city’s maritime heritage. As I wandered inside, I could almost hear echoes of past sailors and traders who once sought refuge within its sturdy walls.

Eager to experience the city’s natural wonders, I ventured to the Damlataş Cave, renowned for its therapeutic air, said to aid respiratory ailments. The surreal stalactite formations adorned the cave like nature’s artwork, creating a surreal ambiance. Breathing in the pure air, I couldn’t help but feel rejuvenated, as if I were receiving a gift from the heart of Mother Nature herself.

But Alanya’s true beauty revealed itself when I set sail on a traditional Turkish gulet cruise along the Turquoise Coast.  The endless horizon, dotted with secluded coves and pristine beaches, left me speechless. Each stop on our voyage unfolded a new paradise, offering ample opportunities for swimming, snorkeling, and simply basking in the sun’s warm embrace.

Beyond its natural wonders, Alanya also delighted my taste buds with its diverse culinary offerings. I relished the authentic Turkish delights at local eateries, savoring traditional kebabs, baklava, and freshly baked pide. The welcoming smiles of the locals added an extra dash of flavor to every meal, making my dining experiences all the more memorable.

As my time in Alanya drew to a close, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of nostalgia creeping in. The city had charmed its way into my heart, leaving an indelible mark on my soul. Its blend of history, nature, and culture had created an unforgettable journey, one that I would forever cherish.

As I bid farewell to Alanya, I knew that my wanderlust would lead me back to its shores someday. But for now, I carried the essence of this Turkish delight with me, grateful for the experiences that had enriched my life and transformed me as a traveler.

In conclusion, my journey to Alanya, Antalya was a symphony of delights – a harmonious blend of ancient history, breathtaking nature, and warm hospitality. This enchanting Turkish destination had left an indelible mark on my soul, forever inspiring the wanderer in me to seek new adventures and embrace the beauty of the world with an open heart.

All photos by Emelie Sater

1. An enchanting jewel in Alanya’s heart, beckoning with its vibrant blue door, a gateway to a world of charm and wonder in the bustling city center.
2. A vibrant nocturnal marketplace buzzing with colorful stalls, enchanting lights, and a kaleidoscope of cultural delights. A haven for night owls seeking unique treasures and unforgettable experiences under the starry skies.
3. Where history meets paradise – A breathtaking coastal gem, graced by golden sands, and turquoise waters
4. A timeless sanctuary of beauty and legends, where Cleopatra’s footsteps once tread, embraced by stunning vistas, azure waters, and a mesmerizing aura of ancient allure.

Istanbul is a lovely city in Turkey that offers a lot of amazing things for one to explore and have fun. The wonderfully unique architecture, the ambience and the beauty of the place make one fall in love with this place. The following are the 10 fun things to do in Istanbul,

Visiting Hagia Sophia

​​Hagia Sophia is an amazing destination in Istanbul that one should not miss. This is one of the major attractions in Istanbul that has cultural and historical significance. Officially known as the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque, this was previously a Church and a Museum before becoming a Mosque. The architecture of this building will leave one in complete awe. One should not miss visiting this amazing place. And the Istanbul packages help one to achieve it. The place is open to the public all day a week, 24 hours a day. There is no entry fee to enjoy this place.

Visiting Grand Bazaar

No trip to Istanbul is complete without making a visit to the Grand Bazaar. The Grand Bazaar is one of the largest markets in the World and the oldest as well. This is the ultimate destination for shopaholics. This is a covered market that has about 4000 shops. One can find lamps, hand-crafted carpets, ceramics, shoes, clothes and much more. There are also restaurants, cafes and more. One can find something that excites them here. The place is open all day a week, from 10 in the morning to 6 in the evening. This is one of the fun things to do in Istanbul.

Nightlife in Istanbul

Istanbul is one of the top places in Turkey that has dazzling nightlife. The city lights up at night adding an additional glow and setting up the ambience for nocturnal lovers. The place offers several activities that pave the way to having the ultimate fun. One can have a romantic dinner on the Bosphorus Cruise, shop at the Grand Bazaar at night and have a beautiful night stroll are some of the amazing activities to do at night in Istanbul. To have a wild night, there are several options of bars, clubs and pubs available for one to choose from. There is also a pub crawl option available to have continuous fun.

Exploring street food in Istanbul

Street food in Istanbul has a great reputation and offers the culture’s cuisine at its finest. This is a great activity for all the food lovers out there. One can try out and relish all the delicious delicacies the city has to offer. It is also safe to eat street foods in Istanbul. Some of the most popular street food in Istanbul include Kebab, Kofte, Lahmacun, Balık-Ekmek, pide, Baklava, Simit and Meze to name a few. One can find delicious foods on these street foods in the city. Trying out all of these foods must be at the top of your list while visiting Istanbul.

Going on a Bosphorus Cruise

One of the amazing things about visiting Istanbul is cruising along the calming Bosphorus strait. This is a great activity for one to bond and this is perfectly suitable for family, friends, business trips, solo travellers and kids. One can get to witness the amazing city and its alluring beauty from a panoramic view. The ideal time to take on the cruise is during the evening and one can experience the view and enjoy the cruise along with the dinner and the picturesque sunset. Taking on this cruise is one of the most fun things to do in Istanbul and must not be missed.

Trying the Turkish Bath

The vacation trip to Istanbul is not complete without trying out the famous Turkish Bath. This is much more than a bath and more of a relaxing and therapeutic activity to try out in Istanbul. This is the perfect activity to have the ultimate relaxation on a vacation. One can enjoy the bath that includes scrubbing, foam wash and a massage. The entire bath experience can be finished in 45 minutes. The Turkish Bath is absolutely perfect for the laid-back and relaxing thing to do in Istanbul and is a fun experience overall to try out. One must not miss the Turkish Bath.

Visiting Topkapi Palace Museum

The Topkapi Palace is one of the great examples of the amazing architecture of Istanbul. This is one of the popular attractions in Istanbul that must not be missed. This is one of the largest museums and one can witness several amazing things representing the relics, manuscripts and much more of the Ottoman Empire. The grandeur of the palace can be seen both outsides and inside the palace. Visiting the Topkapi Palace Museum is one of the fun things to do in Istanbul. The palace is open from Wednesday to Monday, with the timings from 10 in the morning to 4 in the evening.

Visiting Miniaturk

One should not miss paying a visit to the Miniaturk when in Istanbul. The place is one of the largest miniature parks in the world. This is an attraction that is suitable for people of all ages. At Miniaturk, one can witness the amazing works displayed here. The intricate beautiful miniature models of all the significant monuments of Istanbul, Anatolia and overseas can be seen in one place. There is also a souvenir shop in Miniaturk where one can shop for things to remind of a memorable day. The place is open all day a week, from 9 in the morning to 7 at night.

Visiting the Blue Mosque

​​The Blue Mosque, also known as the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, is one of the architectural and historic wonders in Istanbul that must not be missed. The Mosque is one of the popular choices of attractions among tourists and attracts a lot of people. The interior of the place must be mentioned as it is one of the stunningly intricate things with a great design of tiles and walls. Visiting the Blue Mosque is one of the amazing things to do in Istanbul. The place is open all day a week, from 9 in the morning to 7 in the evening.

Walking in Yıldız Park

Yıldız Park is one of the amazing places in Istanbul that must not be missed. The park has a serene ambience and picturesque location that one must not miss. One of the interesting things about this park was that this was a forest before. This is also one of the largest parks in Istanbul that is best to take a stroll, do a picnic and just lie back. This park is filled with beautiful greenery, birds and flowers. The park is open to the public all day a week, 24 hours a day. This is a great location for people of all ages.

Istanbul offers several fun activities to do while on a tour. So, pack up your bags and get ready to experience all the amazingly fun things!

Browse Istanbul Tours Available Now

The bus travels up the side of the mountain, and I look out at the stunning landscape, dotted with lemon groves, olive trees, and vineyards. The rugged landscape is dramatic and I hold onto my seat as we take hairpin turns a little too fast. We have just finished a tour of ancient Ephesus and are heading to relax and have lunch in a guesthouse up here in the mountain hamlet of Sirince. Our visit and lunch are arranged in conjunction with Food and Wine magazine.

Sirince lies about eight miles outside of Ephesus but it seems to be of another world. It is famous for its location, fabulous vineyards, and rich fruit wines. It is so beautiful that, at one time, the natives decided to name it Cirkince, meaning “ugly” because they wanted to deter foreigners and tourists from taking over their lovely little town. But today it is called Sirince, meaning “pretty”. It contains a dollhouse collection of square white stucco homes, a quaint downtown, and friendly people.

Narrow streets are filled with trucks delivering fresh produce and there are food and wine shops to lure you in. Bright red tomatoes are available for sale from the back of the proud farmer’s pickup truck. We stop to sample some olives and bread dipped in cold-pressed extra-virgin olive oil. Next door is a shop selling fresh lemons the size of cantaloupes and locally-made lemon products. A tiki-style bar offers wine-tasting, and next to it you can order a freshly made dish of moussaka and a traditional salad made from sun-ripened tomatoes, thick slices of cucumber, green pepper, red onion, olives, and feta cheese.

At the end of the main street and up a short flight of stone stairs is the boutique hotel, Gullu Konaklari, where we will have lunch. We are a small group and two tables have been set up for us in the outdoor vineyard house overlooking the mountains. A canvas roof over the tables provides protection from the hot September sun and fans keep the air moving. The sides are open, a warm summer breeze blows, and there are breathtaking views of the mountains. This is good for the soul.

Two young servers dressed in starched white shirts and black pants start by pouring each of us a glass of wine made from locally-grown grapes. We toast our fellow travelers and enjoy good conversation about hometowns, recent travel, and shipboard experiences. We nibble on freshly made pita bread, hummus, tzatziki, and a creamy fava puree made from mashed yellow split peas and topped with sauteed red onions, capers, and a dollop of yogurt.

Next comes a large salad made from sun-ripened tomatoes, thick slices of cucumber, green pepper, red onion, olives, and big chunks of fresh feta cheese. Vinegar, extra-virgin olive oil, salt, and freshly ground black pepper are available on the side. Although the salad can be served at any time during the meal, it is traditional to serve it as a starter.

The first course is borek, a savory spinach and cheese pie similar to the Greek spanikopita. Buttery filo crust is wrapped around the filling and baked to a light and crispy perfection. The main course consists of local specialties—kofte balls of ground beef served with tomato pilaf and grilled vegetables made from locally grown produce like we saw in the markets in the town. Dessert is a sweet berry tarte, delicious with a dollop of tangy yogurt.

Be sure to order a frappe at the end of the meal. This is not what you might think. It is an iced coffee drink made from water and instant coffee granules which are mixed to a froth that fills the top third of the glass. It is a pick-me-up at the end of the day—and it has no calories. It may take several sips to learn to enjoy the strong brew with a bitter aftertaste.

The Ancient City of Ephesus is not far away

Sirince is not far from Ephesus, a classical ancient city in Asia Minor within the border of present-day Turkey. It was colonized mainly from Athens with the result that it is very “Greek” by nature. It is one of the most magnificent and best-preserved archaeological sites in the world.

The Library of Celsus is a highlight of the site. Named for Julius Celsus, a Roman governor of the Asian provinces, its classical architecture dates from 110-135 AD. Scrolls and old manuscripts were stored in bookcases in the top two stories and dispensed by librarians. The lower niches on the exterior of the library contain four statues with Greek inscriptions said to represent Wisdom, Knowledge, Destiny, and Intelligence. These are copies; the originals are in the Vienna Museum.

The Temple of Hadrian is the most attractive structure on the “main street.” It has an arched top and intact facade with four columns that lead into an inner chamber.

The stunning Terrace Houses are in a newly excavated section. Wealthy and important people lived here. They have incredibly well-preserved mosaics, tiles, and frescoes decorating their interiors and are sheltered from the elements under a protective covering. They are in their original locations, and walkways and staircases have been set up so you can see them up close. They were built in the first century AD and used for 600 years, and consist of entryways with water features, reception rooms, kitchens with arched hearths, and bedrooms. The Hall of Muses contains particularly beautiful and well-preserved frescoes.

The Ionic Temple of Artemis was considered one of the Seven Wonders of the ancient world. All that remains today are the columns. At one time, the famous statue of Artemis, goddess of fertility, was housed here. It is now in the Ephesus Archaeological Museum.

The site offers a peek into the private lives of the inhabitants. A latrine is located near the brothel. Thirty-five toilet holes were cut into a marble slab and were continuously cleaned by running water. It was used by both men and women.

If you go

Holland America, “11-Day Ancient Empires”, round-trip Civitavecchia (Rome). Ports of call include Kusadasi (Ephesus), Turkey; Katakolon (Olympia), Greece; Piraeus (Athens), Greece; Mykonos, Greece; Rhodes, Greece; Santorini, Greece; and Salerno (Amalfi Coast, Pompeii, Sorrento), Italy. On this cruise, there is an overnight stop in Piraeus (Athens).

About the author:

Elizabeth von Pier loves to travel. After she retired from her lifetime career in banking, she has been traveling the world, photographing, and writing. She has been published in the Los Angeles Times and many online travel magazines including In the Know Traveler, Go Nomad, Wave Journey, Travelmag—The Independent Spirit, and Travel Thru History. She also recently published her first book, “Where to Find Peace & Quiet in London” and is now working on another volume in this series, “Where to Find Peace and Quiet in Paris” which is expected in 2020. Ms. von Pier lives in Hingham, MA.

Photos by Elizabeth von Pier

by Elizabeth von Pier

Ninety-eight percent of the population of Turkey is Muslim, so it is not surprising that there are thousands of beautiful mosques in Istanbul. Some are among the biggest and best in the world, and some are tiny with awesome settings on the Bosphorus.

Four, in particular, stand out to me. All are on the European side of Istanbul. The Sultan Ahmed Mosque, also known as the Blue Mosque, is the most famous and is known for the color of the tiles that decorate much of the interior. The Hagia Sophia is in the old city next to the Blue Mosque and, although it is a museum today, it has been used for centuries as both a Christian church and a mosque. The Suleymanye Mosque with its lovely understated interior is the largest and is located high on a hill overlooking the Golden Horn. And the pint-sized Ortakoy Mecidiye Mosque sits right on the shores of the Bosphorus in the trendy Besiktas district.

All welcome non-Muslims as long as you are properly clothed and adhere to some basic tenets of propriety.

Ten Things You Need to Know About Visiting a Mosque

Here are some of the most important things that I learned about visiting religious sites in a Muslim country.

1. Muslims are called to pray five times a day so that they are frequently reminded of Allah and have opportunities to seek His guidance and forgiveness. The exact time changes daily based on the rotation of the earth around the sun.

2. During prayer times, mosques are generally closed to tourists so that the faithful have privacy during their commune with Allah. You can take this opportunity to visit the property surrounding the mosque including the tomb of the sultan and his wives.

3. Men and women offer their prayers in separate spaces. Men kneel on the carpet in the main hall. The women’s space is smaller than the men’s and is set aside behind a partition in the back. Some say this is so that the men don’t get distracted during prayer; others say it represents a special honor to women.

4. There are no chairs, benches or pews in a mosque. Everyone from all walks of life sits on the floor to symbolize their equality in front of Allah.

5. It is necessary to take off your shoes when entering a mosque in recognition that you are entering a holy place. This also keeps the prayer space clean for the act of prostration during which the supplicant puts his forehead and nose on the ground as he/she prays.

6. Women must cover their hair and shoulders before entering a mosque. This is because hair is considered to be part of a woman’s sexuality that should be revealed only to her husband.

7. Men must be dressed respectfully. Long pants and collared shirts with sleeves are appropriate.

8. Generally, it is permitted to take photographs inside a mosque. It is a sign of respect to avoid photographing Muslim women and people who are praying.

9. Ablution, the act of cleansing oneself before praying to Allah, is a prerequisite to praying so that one is both pure spiritually and clean physically. Ablution facilities typically include a row of faucets and stone stools on the side of the building used by the men. The women’s area is hidden from public view. Commonly used parts of the body are washed before entering the prayer hall.

10. Inside a mosque, you will find calligraphy rather than statues and paintings of God and saints like you would find in a church. This is because Muslims worship an unseen God and believe that it is impossible to know what He looks like. So instead of depictions of Mohammed or the prophets, you will find calligraphy of Qur’anic verses and prayers.

With this knowledge, you are now ready to visit some of the best mosques of Istanbul.

The Sultan Ahmed (Blue) Mosque

The Sultan Ahmed Mosque is also called the Blue Mosque for the color of the blue, green, and turquoise tiles that cover the interior. It is considered to be one of the most magnificent buildings in Turkey. Constructed between 1609 and 1617 during the rule of Ottoman Sultan Ahmed I, the mosque was built to reassert Ottoman power following losses suffered in the war with Persia in 1603-1618. Sultan Ahmed I was only 19 years old when he commissioned the building of this great mosque and he showed his dedication to its construction by personally working as a laborer.

Mosques typically have two or four minarets but you will notice that the Blue Mosque has six. Some say that this was to flaunt Ahmed I’s power and wealth. When he was criticized because the mosque in the holy city of Mecca also had six minarets, Ahmed ordered that a seventh minaret be added to the mosque in Mecca.

Twenty-one thousand blue tiles cover the interior of the Blue Mosque. They are Iznik tiles from western Anatolia, hand-painted in florals and geometrics. There also are 260 stained-glass windows, impressive displays of Arabic calligraphy on the walls, and a large chandelier that hangs low over the prayer hall.

Suleymanye Mosque

This classical masterpiece of the golden age of the Ottoman empire is decorated more simply. It was commissioned by Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent who ruled the Ottoman Empire for 46 years and was one of the most important sultans of the 16thаcentury. Construction work started in 1550 and was finished in 1557. The Suleymanye Mosque is considered to be a highlight of Ottoman architecture. In fact, the glass work of the windows is so superb that the artists felt it had reached the ultimate perfection and beauty and did not dare to produce glass work for the Ottomans again.

The mosque building itself has four minarets at the corners. The interior is visually stunning with tile work in understated pink and white, Qur’anic calligraphy in gold on black, a large low chandelier over the prayer area, and a magnificent dome that spans the entire interior and is supported by four pillars. Lots of light comes in and there is an aura of tranquility.

The mosque complex is situated on 2.4 acres on the Golden Horn and shores of the Bosphorus. Views of the Galata district and Taksim, the modern district, from the gardens and terrace are awe-inspiring. It is at the top of the highest of the seven hills of Istanbul’s old city.

Hagia Sophia

While not a mosque today, I have included Hagia Sophia because it served as a mosque for nearly 500 years. It is Istanbul’s top tourist attraction. Hagia Sophia is almost 1500 years old and has a very interesting history. It was built as a Byzantine church in 532 AD by Emperor Justinian I and was used as a church for 916 years. In 1453 when the Ottomans captured Constantinople, it was converted into a mosque. And in 1935, nearly 500 years later, it became a museum.

Hagia Sophia is a blend of east and west, with elements of both the Byzantine and Ottoman empires. It is considered to be the finest house of worship in the Christian and Muslim worlds. The crowning achievement is the vast central dome.

It took five years to build Hagia Sophia and drained the treasury in the process. Emperor Justinian had asked for a church with grand proportions that would last for centuries and keep his name alive. He got his wishЧHagia Sophia is still standing after 15 centuries and Paris’ Notre Dame would fit within its great dome.

When the building became a mosque in 1453, the church’s mosaics and frescoes depicting God and people were covered over with whitewash and plaster since this is not allowed in a mosque. These are in the process of being restored. You can get an up-close view of the most famous if you take the stairs and walkway to the upper floor galleries. The Ottomans added the Arabic calligraphy that you see in the large round medallions.

Ortokoy (Mecidiye) Mosque

This little mosque in the Besiktas district north of the old city is tiny and serene, and has one of the nicest settings in the trendy Ortokoy pier area overlooking the Bosphorus and the Asian side of Istanbul.

Commissioned by Ottoman Sultan Abdulmecid and built between 1854 and 1856, it is the newest of the four mosques described here. It was designed by an Armenian father and son who also designed the Dolmabahce Palace and mosque just up the road. It has two minarets and the pink and white interior has lovely glass chandeliers and Arabic calligraphy which was executed by the Sultan himself, a master calligrapher. It is light and bright inside due to the large windows which allow light from the outside and reflections off the water to flood in.

After visiting the mosque, be sure to try Ortokoy’s popular street food, аkumpir, which are overstuffed baked potatoes.

If You Go:

Private Tour: Istanbul in One Day Sightseeing Tour including Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace

Hotel Amira, Kucuk Ayasofya Mahallesi Mustafapasa Sokak No 43, Sultanahmet 34122 Istanbul, Turkey, аinfo@hotelamira.com
Sultan Ahmed Mosque (Blue Mosque), Sultanahmet, Sultanahmet Mah. 34122/Istanbul
Süleymaniye Mosque, Sinan Aga Mah. Zeyrek Cad. No:4, Zeyrek/Fatih/Istanbul
Hagia Sophia, Sultanahmet Mh., Ayasofya Meydani, Fatih, Istanbul, +90 212 522 1750, open daily except Mondays
Ortakoy Mosque, Mecidiye Mah. Cami Sok. No:2, Ortakoy, Besiktas, Istanbul

Istanbul Full-Day Tour with Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, Grand Bazaar and local Turkish lunch

 About the author

Elizabeth von Pier loves to travel. After she retired from her lifetime career in banking, she has been traveling the world, photographing, and writing. She has been published in the Los Angeles Times, In the Know Traveler, GoNomad, Wave Journey, Hackwriters, Travelmag, The Independent Spirit, and Travel Thru History. She also has recently published her first book, Where to Find Peace and Quiet in London. Ms. von Pier lives in Hingham, MA.

All photos are by Elizabeth von Pier.

Istanbul, Turkey

by Inke Piegsa-quischotte

Ever since I read Agatha Christie’s intriguing crime novel ‘Murder on the Orient Express’, I wanted to travel on that train. To indulge in the gilded luxury of the train itself, let the mysterious landscapes of the Balkans glide past my window and alight at the final destination: Istanbul, the city which straddles two continents. At the beginning of the 20th century, an infatuation with Istanbul and Turkey had taken hold of European society; actors, artists, writers, journalists and plain rich people, flocked to the Bosporus and their favorite means of transport was the Orient Express.

Composed of sleepers, a dining car and a baggage car, the train featured Lalique chandeliers, a piano and the finest crockery and cutlery. The maiden journey started on October 10th 1882 in Paris and reached Istanbul the next day. The menu consisted of no less than seven courses, oysters and turbot in green sauce included, not to mention fine wines and champagne. In 1977 the train ceased to have Istanbul as its final destination and in 2009 the Orient Express disappeared entirely from the time tables. Several other routes continue though and twice a year the historical trip is repeated, at a very stiff price!

Since I couldn’t afford that luxury, I was nevertheless able to relive Orient Express romantic and nostalgia in Istanbul’s Sirkeci gare.

Sirkeci Gare

The pink and white structure of the railway station is located in Eminönü on the shores of the Bosporus. Designed by German architect August Jachmund, it’s the best example of European Orientalism, combining elements of Ottoman architecture with modern amenities such as gas and later electric lighting and heating in winter.

As I entered through the elaborate doors, I could well imagine fur clad ladies in pearls and cloches, tripping along the platform, followed by an army of porters bogged down by travel trunks.

They might rest in the Orient Express restaurant, where I sat down for a coffee and a few baklavas and admired the beautiful stained glass windows and Tiffany lamps which still evoke the atmosphere of times gone by.

As I got up to head for the restrooms, I discovered to my delight a tiny museum right next door which is easily overlooked if you don’t know it’s there.

Orient Express Museum

It’s only one room, but the museum documents the history of the Orient Express and the train station in detail. Old log books are displayed as are conductors’ uniforms, the piano, a table laid with the original cutlery and crockery, tickets and many more memorabilia. Photographs adorn the walls and examples of the technology of the time are on display too. I loved the newspaper clipping of when the train got stuck in a snow storm in Bulgaria, very reminiscent of the plot of Agatha’s novel. Admission is free and you are allowed to take as many photographs as you want.

There is just one single guard watching over the treasures and he is happy to answer your questions.

Another Istanbul landmark closely connected to the Orient Express and Srikeci gare is the Pera Palace Hotel.

Pera Palace Hotel

As affluent Europeans started to descend upon romantic Istanbul, using the Orient Express, they needed an equally elegant place to rest their heads. The city was decidedly short of such type of establishment and that’s how the Pera Palace was conceived. The first super luxury hotel of Istanbul, located in fashionable Beyoglu (then called Pera) opened its door with an inaugural ball in 1892.

Passengers from Sirkeci Gare were carried in sedans all the way up to the Golden Horn and one of these sedans is still displayed in the Pera Palace, next to the elaborate elevator which was the first of its kind in Istanbul. As were other amenities such as hot and cold running water. There are many ‘firsts’ for the Pera Palace, including the first ever fashion show in Istanbul.

Not carried by a sedan but using the tramway running up and down Istaklal Street, I made my way on foot to the Pear Palace. The hotel was closed for nearly four years, undergoing extensive renovations but is now open again. No better place to get a feel for how people traveled in the past than sitting in the Orient Bar, enjoying a cocktail.

Room 411, all decorated in black and red, was Agatha Christie’s favorite room and it was here that she actually wrote her Orient Express mystery. But she isn’t the only famous person having frequented the Pera Palace. Signed photographs of Ernest Hemingway, Greta Garbo, Isadora Duncan and Jackie Kennedy to name but a few look down from the walls. Atatürk was also a frequent visitor, presiding over many a ball.

Even if I wasn’t able to afford a trip on the Orient Express or a stay at the Pera Palace, I could enjoy the atmosphere and easily imagine the past in these three marvelous Istanbul locations, all closely connected to the history of a legendary train.

If You Go:

Istanbul is a city worth a visit any time of the year. However, to avoid tourist crowds and really hot weather, the best seasons are spring and fall. Winters can be quite cold and rainy.

Trains to Greece, the Balkans and beyond still run from Sirkeci Gare. They may not be the Orient Express but you can travel very comfortably in the first class sleepers.

The Pera Palace has an excellent pool, spa and Turkish bath, using products especially made for the hotel in France. A day pass is available for approx. $100, which is a lot less than the average room rate.

About the author:
Inke Piegsa-quischotte is an ex-attorney turned travel writer and novelist. She writes for online travel magazines and has two novels and a travel guide to Galicia/Spain published. She lives between Turkey and Miami. She has just published a book, ‘Istanbul, City of the Green-Eyed Beauty’. Learn more about it here: www.glamourgrannytravels.com

All photographs are by Inke Piegsa-quischotte.

Turkey

by Paola Fornari

‘What to do in Ankara if you come from Istanbul.’ That was one of the first presentations offered by the participants at the Turkish Ministry of Foreign Affairs where I was giving some training courses recently. Apparently Ankara is such a dump that the only ways people from Istanbul can survive are a) hit the shops, b) hit the bars, c) hit the station and get a train to Istanbul every weekend.

I was in Ankara for three weeks, and I wasn’t interested in shops or bars. And Istanbul was not practical: I had two short weekends ahead of me, during which I had to do a lot of preparation work. I was in Ankara, and I love being in new places. The city must have something to offer, and I would find it.

During the first week, I became familiar with taxi route between the hotel and the Ministry: busy wide boulevards flanked by huge buildings, and pedestrian bridges. I occasionally ventured out in the evening, and learnt my first few words of Turkish: ‘hello’, the two sorts of ‘goodbye’ (one for leaving and one for staying), ‘please’, ‘thank you’, ‘orange juice’, ‘entrance’, ‘exit’, ‘water’, ‘what’s your name’ and ‘car wash’ (well, Oto Kuaför is simply too memorable, even if not particularly useful).

At the weekend, I decided I would see two of the three highlights recommended in my Lonely Planet Guide, saving the third till the following weekend. I wandered up to the Citadel, the oldest part of the city, the walls of which date back to the 7th century. The narrow winding streets were packed with carpet stalls and little restaurants. Women chatted by the side of the road, crocheting handbags. A family, gathered on a few steps outside a crumbling house, invited me to join them for chai. Seeing their shoes all lined up neatly to one side, I took off mine, and we smiled and giggled at each other and sipped tea for a while.

Later, from the castle walls, I enjoyed the superb view over Ankara and the snow-capped mountains beyond. The sunset was stunning.

On Sunday morning I went to the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations. It won the ‘Best European Museum of the Year’ award over ten years ago, and is still superb, displaying archaeological artifacts from the Stone Age through the Assyrians, Hittites, Phrygians and Lydians. And my guide spoke reasonable English.

That afternoon I went off to a hammam – a Turkish bath – in a fancy area of town, recommended by one of my trainees, and then had a manicure next door. A wonderfully relaxing way to end my weekend, and I added a few more less-than-useful words to my list: ‘soap’, and ‘pearly pink’.

The second weekend, I visited the Citadel and the Museum of Anatolian Civilisations again: this time the only guide I could find that I would be able to understand spoke a mixture of Italian and Spanish.

And then I walked to the site I had been saving: Anit Kabir, Ataturk’s mausoleum. Ataturk (1881 – 1938) was an army officer who led the Turkish national movement after the fall of the Ottoman Empire, and defeated the allied forces, thus preventing partition. He was the founder of the Republic of Turkey and transformed the vestiges of the Empire into the modern, secular state Turkey is today. The beautifully kept monumental structure is packed with visitors paying their respects to the great man, and you really sense the hold he had over his adoring people.

By this stage I had added ‘yes’,’ no’, ‘minute’, ‘left’, ‘right’, ‘lovely’, ‘big’, ‘small’ and ‘stop’ to my list of Turkish words.

At the end of my three weeks’ work, I had an extra Saturday to fill before my flight home. I wandered off to a wonderful four-storey book and music shop with a café on top and bought some traditional music, and the number one bestseller called ‘Last Train to Istanbul’, which turned out to be a fascinating but badly translated novel set in wartime Turkey. On the way back to the hotel I bought some Turkish Delight. My bargaining skills had certainly developed over the past three weeks: I would always know to bargain in markets, but here it worked even in highly respectable shops.

So what does one do on one’s third weekend in Ankara?

It just had to be a genuine ancient hammam. The Lonely Planet recommended Sengül Merkez Hamami. At the entrance to a quiet alleyway, below the hammam sign, two women sat on the ground sipping tea. A child played nearby.

I approached. Three women jammed the space between the double doors. I squeezed past, into shabby high-domed room bordered on two levels by cabins. Women milled around, some in long dresses and headscarves, others in very little. Around a large table several women sipped chai and chatted. One sorted a large pile of underwear into neat piles.

‘Hammam?’ I asked. An enormous smiling woman wearing black underwear came over and led me by the hand to a cabin, and gave me a wrap and a pair of enormous clogs.

‘Epilasion?’ she asked. I hesitated. She lifted my arm and peered into my armpit.

‘Epilasion,’ she stated firmly.

It was an amazing experience, with women coming to chat, watch, compare results, giggling as I yelled the two most important words in the Turkish language, ‘stop’ and ‘no’, while my hammam lady plied, kneaded and moulded her lump of glutinous chewing-gum wax all over me.

After that, I was ready to be pampered. I understood that the even larger lady whose job it was to scrub me was the sister of the epilasion one. I lay on the marble slab. And very quietly, she began to sing, the volume gradually increasing, until her haunting, deep, sad song filled the steamy air and brought tears to my eyes – no, not tears – floods. I look up at her closed eyes, her furrowed brow, her look of concentration as she drew the cheap, hand-crocheted, garish flannel up and down my arms, her blubbery stomach filling the space between us. ‘Benli benli, benli benli,’ she sang, as I imagined a story of lost love, war, pain, death, disaster… Then a young woman beside me – yes, someone spoke a few words of English here – said ‘Hello!’

‘Please tell me what the song is about,’ I said.
‘It’s a traditional song. It says it’s difficult to live with someone who is ugly.’
How banal, I thought, rather embarrassed about my emotional display.
‘Ugly inside,’ she added, as the hammam lady sang, and I burst into tears again. Lovely. A perfect end to my three weeks.

Private Tour: Ankara Sightseeing

If You Go:

Where to stay: I stayed at the Ankara Plaza Hotel, which was comfortable and friendly. See www.tripadvisor.com

Things to do:
• Museum of Anatolian Civilisations, anadolu Medeniyetleri Muzesi, daily 8:30 am – 5:15 pm, entrance 10 Turkish lira.
• Ataturk’s Mausoleum, Gazi Mustafa Kemal Bulvari (Mon 1:30 – 5:00 pm, Tues – Sat 9:00 am – 5:00 pm, free) • Sengül Merkez Hamami,Ulus,, 6:00 am – 8:00 pm daily, recently restored, see sengulhamami.com/icerik-93.html.

About the author:
Paola Fornari was born on an island in Lake Victoria, and was brought up in Tanzania. She has lived in almost a dozen countries over three continents, speaks five and a half languages, and describes herself as an “expatriate sine patria”. Wherever she goes, she makes it her business to get involved in local activities, explore, and learn the language, thus making each new destination a real home. At present she is living in Bangladesh.

All photos are by Paola Fornari.

by Inka Piegsa-guischotte

I saw the picture first and I couldn’t tear my eyes away from the image of a baby boy mummy staring at me with wide open blue eyes. It was part of a brochure about the archaeology museum in the fabulous mountain town of Amasya, located about 100 miles south inland from the Turkish Black Sea coast.

I couldn’t wait to rush off and visit the museum and have a closer look at this witness from 1000 years ago who was still looking at the world in this way. I generally have mixed feelings about looking at mummies. Somehow it seems to me as if I am intruding and disturbing the peace of the dead. Mummies are after all neither statues nor paintings, they are well preserved dead bodies of people who once were very much alive and, more often than not, important people, rulers, kings, queens or priests. But, on the other hand, no man made image can convey a real impression of how people looked who have lived such a long time ago and, in the end, curiosity always overrules misgivings.

The first day of my stay in Amasya was dedicated to getting the feel for this amazing town nestled in the gorge of steep mountains and dominated by a towering castle on Harshena mountain, 700 m above sea level and first constructed in the Hellenistic period with alterations and additions ever since. Below it, the rock tombs of kings, illuminated at night, add to the magic of the entire place.

The next day however, I couldn’t resist any longer and went off across one of several bridges which lead over the Green River to the town center and Mustafa Kemal Pasa Caddesi, where the archaeology museum is located and, within the complex, the mummies awaited.

The museum consists of a two-story modern building, just your run of the mill block with nothing remarkable about the building itself. But wait until you get inside!

It’s one of these museums I like best, with just one ring-passage leading along the exhibits, displayed either openly like a big pile of amphorae or behind glass but allowing you to get close enough to see every detail. Few visitors were around and I could stroll at my leisure, admiring Roman coins and gold jewellery, the gold treasure of Saraycik and the world famous statue of Teshup which dates from the Hittite period of the 14th century BC and looks as polished and life- like as if it were created yesterday and many more artifacts from no less than 12 different civilizations which all have left their traces and silent witnesses in the tiny town of Amasya alone.

The first floor is dedicated to the Ottoman period and you can indulge in the luxury of embroidered garments worn by the sultans as well as ‘Tableaux’ which recreate life at the times.

But, where were the mummies? I asked and discovered, that they were treated with respect as the people responsible for the museum seemed to have had the same feelings about the nature of mummies I had.

I leave the museum and enter the adjacent garden which abounds with carved tomb stones and other relics and statues from the Greek and Roman periods. At the bottom is the tomb of Sultan Mesud I, Sultan of the Selcuks and within it the mummies are displayed. Was it their power to remind visitors to be respectful or was the sentiment my fancy? When I entered through the narrow and low doorway to the tomb I violently banged my head. Slightly dazed, I adjusted my eyes in the deep shadows of the tomb and approached the four mummies which belong to a high official and his family of the Ilhan period of the 14th century.

The nazir is surprisingly tall and then there is the baby, blue eyes wide open, little mouth and nose intact but the small body in part destroyed. I wondered what the little prince might have died of but at least it can be concluded from his peaceful expression that we wasn’t suffering any pain.

These mummies have been embalmed and preserved in a very different way from those of Egypt as the organs have not been removed but have been dried with the rest of the body.

May they rest in peace and continue to inform today’s visitor in their own silent way about their times and lives.

Bosphorus Strait and Black Sea Half-Day Cruise from Istanbul

If You Go:

Bring a Turkish phrase book. English is not as widely spoken as in the more touristic areas of Turkey.
Bring good hiking shoes. Otherwise you won’t be able to climb up to the castle.
Try gözleme, a very thin, filling pancake which, in Amasya, is filled with poppy seeds. Amasya is famous for the best apples in Turkey too.
Book a hotel in one of the converted wooden houses along the river. For best views and good value, consult www.booking.com and www.tripadvisor.com for good deals.

Amasya, Turkey in Wikipedia

www.amasya.turkeyhotelstours.com

About the author:
Inka Piegsa-quischotte is an ex-attorney turned travel writer and novelist. She writes for online travel magazines and has two novels and a travel guide to Galicia/Spain published. She lives between Turkey and Miami.

Photo Credits:
First Amasya, Turkey photo by Kaan Özer from Pixabay
All other photographs are by Inka Piegsa-quischotte.

A Turkish Delight

by W. Ruth Kozak

A visit to Turkey is always a delight for me. I’ve been to Istanbul and down the coast to Ephesus and Kusadasi several times. This time, my destination was Bodrum and Fethiye.

My friend and I arrived at Bodrum by ferry from the Greek island of Kos. Bodrum is a beautiful bustling tourist centre. The harbour is dominated by the impressive Castle of St. Peter built by the Knights of St. John. Magnificent yachts from all over the world are anchored there and the sea front is lined with charter and excursion boats.

We found a quiet pension on a back street with chickens, ducks and roosters in the yard, and set off to see the sights. Known in ancient times as Halicarnassus, Bodrum was once famous for the Tomb of King Mausoles, one of the Seven Wonders of the World. The Mausoleum has long since been destroyed (a reconstruction of it is in the British Museum) and fragments of the marble were used by the Knights to build their castle.

Inside the castle grounds peacocks and various exotic fowl strut around the gardens or roost in the trees. The castle is now the home of the world’s only undersea archaeological museum, Turkey’s pride, with a display of cargo and in replicas or actual portions of ships found ‘in situ’ dating from 1400 BC to Byzantine times. The Bronze Age ship finds are the most amazing for here was a ship laden with gifts from a king to a king as some of the artifacts, already antiques when the ship set said, were treasures only to be owned by royalty, including Hittite and Egyptian treasures.

The various towers of the castle also have displays. In the English Tower are suits of armour and artifacts including the replica of “The Sovereign of the Seas” a ship commissioned by King Charles I in the 1600s.

Past the castle, we found ourselves at the east harbour. The atmosphere was like a carnival with laser lights and a cacophony of blaring music from the dozens of discos and café bars that line the waterfront. People jammed together along the harbour stroll, tourists and Turkish families enjoying the sights. I have always been impressed with the graciousness and courtesy of the Turkish people. The behaviour of many of the tourists was in direct contrast. Scantily clad young women gyrated in wild abandon from platforms in front of the clubs, raucous drunks reeled through the crowds. My friend and I beat a hasty retreat back to the more sedate traditional part of town and found a quiet table at a sea-side restaurant.

Dining out in Turkey is a delight, even if it’s at a fast-food donair shop. Food is prepared with great care and served artfully with special attention to spices and garnishes. The waiters “serve’ you elegantly with great attentiveness and gallant manners and are friendly, helpful and courteous to their guests. In addition, prices are so much cheaper than elsewhere in Europe. We tried the fabled Iskendar kebaps (lamb fed on wild spices laid on a slice of pita, topped with tomato sauces and browned butter.)

The next day we took a dolmus (mini bus) to a small fishing village a half hour from the city. Gumusluk Beach is a blue flag beach, though it’s mostly stony. The sea here is jade green, the water calm and shallow. We got beach chairs and umbrellas free for the day courtesy of the beach café where we ate lunch. Considering this is a conservative Muslim country, it was surprising to see some tourist women flaunting bare breasts. They were asked courteously by the waiter to cover up.

Nearby is a village, the site of ancient Myndos, inhabited from prehistoric times to 4th century AD. After the death of Julius Caesar, his assassins, Brutus and Cassius hid out here. In ancient times Myndians mixed their wine with sea water to relax the stomach so they were called “the brine drinkers’. Some house foundations can be seen on the hillside or underwater, accessible to scuba divers.

The next morning we were off again, on a four hour bus trip down the coast through the pine-forested mountains to the beautiful harbour town of Fethiye. The major bus companies and dolmus (mini buses) of Turkey are privatized, consequently each owner/operator is conscientious in their bid for customers. Passengers are provided with various services, making the trip comfortable and pleasant. First we were given lemon-scented hand wash to freshen up for the trip. Next, cold drinking water was offered, then tea or coffee, cake and later soft drinks.

Fethiye is located on a lovely bay strewn with islands. The town is built up the hillside, just below the famous Lycian rock tombs, but there are many sarcophagi in the town itself. The ruins of a crusaders castle crowns the hill, built by the Knights of Rhodes. The rock tombs dominate the town, representing the facades of Doric-style temples cut into the cliff face.

To get to the tombs, we walked through a village on the outskirts of Fethye. Here it is the more traditional Turkey where women are dressed in colourful floral patterned trousers and skirts and head scarves, and men wear crocheted caps.

I had always wanted to visit the Lycian tombs, but by the time we reached the top of the steep slope I was so exhausted from the heat I almost opted not to climb up. Once I’d caught my breath, I knew I had to. After all, I’d waited years for this moment. So up I went, climbing the steep the two hundred steps until I was standing right in front of the most predominant of these marvels, the Tomb of Amyntas, which dates to the 4th century B.C. The magnificent view across the tiled rooftops of the village and town of Fethye to the sparkling turquoise sea made it worth the effort.

On the way back through the village three children greeted is. introducing themselves,and politely shook our hands. They little girl questioned us, asking our names, where we were from, and offered information about the area. She said she’d learned English in school. At the edge of the village the little boy piped up and said “One million, please.” Unfortunately, I’d neglected to bring trinkets from home so we had nothing to offer them and as begging is frowned upon, we thanked them, and went on our way.

Fethiye is a more traditional town then Bodrum. Although there are plenty of tourists about, most of them staying at the out-of-town resorts. Our pension was located on the hillside overlooking the harbour ($24 a night with breakfast). The next morning we sat on the roof terrace which was decorated Turkish style, and were served a delicious traditional Turkish breakfast: boiled egg, cheese, tomato, olives, bread and honey and apple tea. Then we set off to spend our last day at the beach.

We caught a dolmus for the nine kilometer trip to Oludeniz, south of Fethiye at the coast. These dolmuses are mini-vans (15 passenger) privately owned like taxis and they travel all over the place for just $2. or less. We were headed for Oludeniz, the Blue Lagoon, a beach which is hidden from the open sea. But we ended up at the larger Belceky Beach. “Oludeniz” means “Dead” or “Calm Sea.” But the sea at Belceky certainly wasn’t calm. Big rollers crashed in on the pebbly shore. The sea here is absolutely gorgeous, clear turquoise and very warm, located on a bay surrounded by pine-forested mountains. It’s a popular resort with lines of colourful umbrellas and lots of tourists. You can rent sports equipment here and we saw a few brave people plummeting off the cliff in what they call “tandem paragliding” with Turks hanging on their backs (or were they hanging on to the Turks?) There were also a number of parasailers out over the sea. We spend the day frolicking in the waves. Later, at the Oludeniz village bazaar, we watched a traditionally dressed lady rolling out gozleme, a kind of thin pancake, kind of like a crepe but made with dough instead of batter and filled with shredded potato, cheese and onions. We bought some for a delicious snack while waiting for our dolmus.

I would have liked to stay longer in Fethiye, to take the three to four day sailing cruise that is offered down the Turquoise Coast. But that’s something I can look forward to on my next visit, for I will certainly return again. Turkey, to me, is a genuine “delight.”

Private Guided Tour from Bodrum: Ephesus House of the Virgin Mary and Temple of Artemis

If You Go:

BODRUM:
Accommodations: Bodrum fills up with tourists in the high season, so hotels are usually booked ahead. The narrow streets north of the western bay harbour have pleasant family run pensions.

The Castle of St. Peter (Museum of Underwater Archaeology): Open 8.30 – 5 pm except for noon hour, daily except Monday. $5.50 U.S. admission. Glass Shipwreck exhibit and Carian Princess Exhibits: Open 10 -11, 2 -4 pm Monday – Friday only. $2.50 US admission

FETHIYE:
Accommodations: Fethiye has a good selection of budget and mid-range accommodations. Resort hotels are usually booked in advance.

About the author:
W. Ruth Kozak is always intrigued with exotic destinations. She has made several trips to Turkey and this summer hopes to make another. Ruth writes historical fiction as well as travel and to visit these destinations and explore the historical sites she has written about is always a thrill.

Photo credits:
First Bodrum, Turkey photo by Alp Cem from Pixabay
All other photos are by W. Ruth Kozak.

An Afternoon With The Romans

by Chris Millikan

Joining other excited history buffs, my husband, daughter and I leave Kusadasi’s docks and head into Turkey’s arid northwestern hills. As archeology-student guide Tino sets the scene, we roll along a pretty coastline in our comfortable coach, then onward through pastoral countryside dotted with fig and apricot trees, Mediterranean pines and olive groves…

“A major trading center during the mighty Roman Empire, Ephesus prospered between 600 BC and 500 AD,” he begins. “Where the Cayster River emptied into the sea at Harbour Gate, fleets of wooden sailing ships unloaded exotic foreign cargoes and hordes of travelers from afar. Over centuries though, the sea has receded nearly ten kilometers away from that once-flourishing seaport.”

Afternoon sunlight gilds landscapes yellow and gold as we enter Asia Minor’s most sophisticated ancient capital through Magnesia Gate, a key entrance in this city’s heyday. As we explore timeless neighborhoods, Roman life emerges along entire streets reconstructed from rubble; majestic colonnades line marble-paved roadways. Plazas filled with magnificent monuments characterize this once influential city, the majority of which remains buried…

Still marked by an undamaged marble post, the ancient medical center had performed history’s earliest surgeries. And opposite, a Nike marker with the now familiar ‘swoosh’ denotes former temples, replaced nowadays by masses of scarlet poppies dancing in summer breezes.

On down Curetes Street Tino explains, “When over 250,000 people inhabited this magnificent cosmopolitan metropolis, streetlamps shone all along here; countless shops prospered up and down this street.”

Just through the Gates of Hercules, exquisite relics survive time’s ravages: the two-storied Fountain of Trajan’s cascading waters had surrounded polished columns and life-sized statues of Dionysus and Aphrodite; the roofed Odeon hosted small concerts in its theater seating 1500 patrons; an intact stone staircase at the Baths of Scolastika leads to a second floor where networks of hot water pipes had steam-heated communal thermal baths and pools for 1000. One of the city’s best-preserved monuments…and the first made of marble…Hadrian’s elegant Corinthian-style Temple crowns this hill where the wealthiest rulers lived.

Opposite Hadrian’s Temple, terrace houses hint at Roman family life. Known as “houses of the rich,” the oldest dates to the first century BC. Mostly two-stories, gracious living and dining rooms had opened to airy hallways on the ground floor; bedchambers and guest rooms were upstairs. Although they seem plain from outside, intricate mosaics and fascinating frescoes decorated them inside; central interior courtyards were filled with exquisite statuary. Remarkable original mosaics still pave the sidewalks out front…

Even in the worlds of Augustus and Alexander the Great, these privileged citizens enjoyed heating systems. Similar to the steam baths, terracotta pipes under floors and behind walls warmed them; elaborate marble bathrooms featured both hot and cold running water…

The upper Agora had been adorned with ornate fountains and elaborate temples. At one time, the Egyptian Temple of Isis had dominated the center of this roofed gathering place. Surrounded by law courts, official buildings and stock exchange during ancient times, this immense public space would have been alive with shops and eateries of every description. We imagine eminent toga-robed citizens in leather sandals discussing politics, sharing the news of the day or philosophizing endlessly…or even playing backgammon in the shade next to the well-preserved town hall.

The nearby communal baths and toilets demonstrate surprisingly sophisticated sewer systems running beneath the pavements. Pausing ‘to visit’ these public latrines, we discover an unexpectedly large privy! A smooth polished marble ledge provides twenty-five perfectly round holes; sitting there side-by-side, I wonder whether aristocrats of old ever had to line up to get a seat here…

Following Marble Street to the breathtaking Library of Celsus, this two-story structure proves most glorious of all. Exquisitely carved columns soar into sapphire skies, enduring monuments to 2000 year-old artistry. Behind the exquisitely carved front columns, four alcoves held replica statues representing Wisdom, Excellence, Goodwill and Knowledge. At one point, the library held an estimated 12,000 volumes, all hand-written papyrus and parchment scrolls stored in niches around the walls to protect them from humidity. Borrowed manuscripts had to be read in a central on-site reading room flooded with light from upper balconies.

Amusing us with stories of secret underground passages connecting this resplendent library to a luxurious brothel just across the street, Tino winks, “I guess in those days, when guys said they were off to read a few good scrolls in the library…it might mean something else!” Reclining awhile on the timeworn library steps, we let our imaginations run wild, speculating about grand schemes and mysterious intrigues of those days…

From Library Square, the partially excavated lower commercial Agora beckons. Towering marble columns had defined the immense square; along the sides, porticos had sheltered long rows of busy shops, trading markets and cafes; at the center stood a sundial and water clock. Approaching the open-air amphitheatre nearby, I could almost hear chariot-wheels cutting ruts into marble pavements as they ground around the corner…

Those carved grooves remain in the marble roadway near the spectacular amphitheatre. Tino observes, “Built by Greeks, this Great Theatre was the largest of its time, especially important during the annual Festival of Artemis. As well, it became an important religious center for early Christians. Saint Paul regularly preached here before capacity crowds of over 25,000. Arrested for denouncing fertility goddess Diana, some say Paul fought wild animals in the amphitheatre before he was cast out from the city…”

Dwarfed among row-upon-row of smooth stone seats curving upward forever, we cautiously climb steep aisle-steps to what had been a grand columned gallery at the top, over 30 meters from the orchestra. As if auditioning for a chorus or drama, we take turns doing experimental sound checks from the stage below…and are amazed to hear every word spoken or note warbled, even from the loftiest of heights.

Moments later, our daughter reveals a newsy tidbit, “Remember Sting… you know, British rock-musician? Well, this is where he performed in a sold-out concert years ago…I can see why: perfect acoustics…no echoes!”

Parading ourselves back to the bus down the Arcadian Way, we feel a bit like the celebrated Mark Anthony and Cleopatra. During their legendary glory days, they’d ridden here in grand processions, their elegant golden chariots pulled by plumed horses prancing past crowds of passionately cheering Ephesians…

Down the hill outside Ephesus, Tino points out the bus window, “At one time, multitudes of pilgrims flocked to that Temple of Diana, revered Seventh Wonder of the Ancient World. Now derelict, only one column and scanty fragments remain there.”

Not far away, we stop at a humble chapel standing on the site of a little house where the Virgin Mary lived her last days. She is thought to have come to Ephesus with Paul around 37 AD. Tino tells us, “In the 1960’s, Paul VI was the first pope to visit this place. And in the 1980’s, Pope John-Paul II sanctioned this Shrine of Virgin Mary as a Christian pilgrimage place. On August 15th every year, a ceremony commemorates Mary’s assumption.” I learn that Muslims also recognize Mary as mother of one of their prophets and visit this holy shrine…

Returning to the bus, we fill our bottles at the fountain; the water of Mary is said to have curative powers. “And atop that distant hill,” Tino points out, “In the 6th-century, Emperor Justinian built a domed Basilica over Saint Paul’s grave, recognizing his years of preaching at Ephesus…

Though abandoned in the 6th century, Ephesus still attracts pilgrims from far and wide, just as she did over two thousand years ago. Like us, countless travelers trek to the Eastern Mediterranean’s best-preserved classical city where Roman grandeur outlasts time.

Private Tour: Ephesus and St. Mary’s House

If You Go:

• Check out Hello Turkey
• Most tourists visit Ephesus by taking a ferry tour from the Greek islands or mainland Greece, arriving in Kusadasi in the morning and leaving before dinnertime.
• Buses depart Kusadasi for Ephesus every half-hour.
• Some visitors tour Ephesus as part of eastern Mediterranean Cruise ship itineraries.

About the author:
A retired Elementary School Principal living in Delta, BC, Chris Millikan enjoys traveling the province and the world with husband Rick and sharing her tales with others in local newspapers and magazines. Experiencing zany, off the beaten track, historical and cultural adventures for many years, she looks forward to introducing Willamina, her first grandchild, to the wonders of travel.

Photo credits:
First photo of Celus by Salih Altuntaş from Pixabay
All other photos are by Rick & Chris Millikan.

by Inka Piegsa-quischotte

I was thrilled when I was recently invited to a Turkish wedding. The invitation immediately raised an important question: what gift to take? Tradition requires the guests to give money or gold or both. Luckily, every jeweler has a selection of gold coins, adorned with a red silk bow and a pin for just that occasion. That’s it. No wedding list, no towels or toasters.

As I approached the venue, I was greeted by a crowd spilling over into the nearby park. Plenty of children ran around, ladies stood together, men on the other side. But the separation of sexes didn’t last long.

The bride’s parents don’t spare expenses on the occasion of the wedding. Rich or not so rich, they’d rather starve the rest of the year than bringing shame to the family name by not entertaining and feeding their guests lavishly. Often, professional dancers and musicians are hired. I was greeted by the music from a traditional group from the Black Sea. Within minutes I was a member of the entire happy family and made very welcome. The music stopped and we took our seats at the beautifully decorated tables.

The lights were dimmed, candles were lit and the band struck up a bridal march Turkish version. The door opened and in came the bride, on the arm of the groom, not her father. She wore a white lace dress and veil and a broad red sash. Red is the color of luck and plays an important role in the wedding ceremony.

What was new to me was that the civil marriage took place there and then. A table was reserved for the bride, groom and witnesses and an official from the Town Hall married them. Signatures, cheers and they were husband and wife!

After that came the Dance of the Fathers which is an essential part of every Turkish wedding. The father of the bride and the groom take to the floor and dance around each other accompanied by the claps and cheers of the guests and the music from the orchestra. Everybody gets up from the table and throws coins and bills onto the dance floor. It’s the task of the kids, to scurry around and collect the money.

Then it was time for dinner. We were served a heaped dish of meze, the Turkish starters, followed by lamb shanks which were so tender that no knife was needed to cut them. Baklava and other sweets followed and, of course, no alcohol.

After that, the bride, accompanied by her bridesmaid, made the rounds from table to table to receive hugs, kisses, good wishes. That’s when the gold coins are attached to her sash, gold bracelets clasped on her arms and more money is discretely put into a red lined basket one of her maids carries for just that purpose.

I could already hardly breathe from all that food, when, with another roll of the drums, the wedding cake was rolled in and ceremoniously cut. Each guest got a piece and it would have been extremely rude not to eat it there and then.

Fortunately, after that, we could get some exercise hitting the dance floor. Couples dance together, women with women, men with men, everybody does as they want and has a good time.

The bride had disappeared and returned after half an hour in a traditional Turkish wedding gown and head dress. Gone was the white western dress to be replaced by red, purple and gold, a dazzling sight which evoked all the splendour of 1001 nights. All the ladies all received red scarves to put around their necks and we gathered in a circle around the bride. Her hands were elaborately hennaed and so were ours. Another good luck ritual which was extended to all the female guests as well. Then it was our turn to dance around the bride, wish her good luck, happiness and many children.

A Turkish wedding is a joyous affair. What fascinated us was the combination of modern and tradition, reflected in the change of the bride’s outfit, the traditional dances and the hennaing of the hands.

Close to midnight, the newly weds and their parents said good bye to each guest and we all were given a beautifully wrapped little parcel with a piece of wedding cake in it and decorated with another good luck charm: a tiny evil eye. And the ladies got a small piece of henna to extend the luck.

At first I didn’t dare wash my hands for fear that the good luck would just gurgle down the drain. But, the stuff is quite water resistant and it took several days to fade, despite soap and water. And of course, I had my little piece of henna to renew the good luck whenever I wished.

Turkish Customs:

More information about Turkish Weddings traditions

Istanbul Private Tours

About the author:
Inke Piegsa-quischotte is an ex-attorney turned travel writer and novelist. She writes for online travel magazines and has published two novels and a travel guide to Galicia/Spain. She lives between Turkey and Miami.

All photos are by Inka Piegsa-quischotte.