by Troy Herrick 

It was déjà vu all over again and in my mind the voice of Rod Serling said “Your next stop, the Twilight Zone.” How would you feel if one day you were in the 17th century and then the next day you were at the same site but this time in the 21st century? Is this a psychic flashback into history you may ask?

This is exactly how it felt when Diane and I toured the movie set of La Nouvelle France (New France) and then followed that up with a visit to real Quebec City the next day. It is not everyday that you can stand in front of a reproduction and then see what eventually became of the real thing.

New France (La Nouvelle France)

Poof. We suddenly found ourselves standing at the river’s edge in early Quebec City between the years of 1608 and 1640. This location was selected as the set for the 1990 movie “Black Robe” because its landforms are similar to the actual site.

On July 3, 1608 Samuel de Champlain and 26 colonists sailed up the St. Lawrence River and landed in a narrow passage known as Kébec. Here they established a fur trading post consisting of three main wooden buildings, a wooden stockade and moat that they referred to as the “Habitation.” This was the origin of the Lower Town.

Near the river, you find replicas of several period houses, buildings and a trading post with all the necessities required for trade with the Indians including pots, pans and rifles. Aboriginal items obtained through trade included furs that had been bundled up for transport back to France and snowshoes for local use during the winter.

Carpenters and blacksmiths were kept busy in the colony with the construction of houses, buildings and defensive fortifications. The colony was highly dependent on these tradesmen and their homes have been reproduced here, along with the tools of their trade.

Ascending the rue (street) Côte de la Montagne to the Upper Town, Diane and I were greeted by a “Black Robe,” the Aboriginal name for a Jesuit priest, just outside Fort St. Louis.

Father Paul Menard, dressed in black cassock, invited us inside the palisade of Champlain’s 1620 fort. The first floor of the L-shaped two-story wooden building consisted of a large, well-stocked kitchen. A rifle hung from the wall just in case dinner happened to amble past.

Champlain’s quarters, which he also referred to as his “habitation”, were on the second floor. His room had the finest furnishings on the whole set. A canopied bed and stone fireplace provided warmth during those cold winter evenings. A 3-pound cannon was placed in the corner near the window just in case undesirable guests decided to drop in for a visit like the Iroquois, the English or a mother-in-law.

Exiting the fort, we approached a wooden chapel, a replica of the first one constructed in Quebec City. The real chapel has since been replaced by the present-day Cathedral-Basilica of Notre Dame de Quebec.

Four wooden houses stand near the chapel. Father Menard’s single room home contains a wooden table with one place setting and several wine bottles for sacramental use only.

Approaching the baker’s house, you can imagine the smell of fresh crusty bread coming from the adobe oven outside.

The soldier/farmer’s log cabin was the most rustic of all with its wood and bark roof. Grass was stuffed between the logs for insulation. In case of attack, he had to drop everything at a moment’s notice, grab his musket off the wall and run to defend the settlement.

The occupation of the final home owner was not apparent. He may have been a merchant because the décor suggested he was a little better educated and well off financially.

Our final stop was a Huron Indian Village. A section of a 16-foot high log palisade stood between us and the two longhouses inside. The narrow corridor at the front gate turned back upon itself so that only one person might pass at a time. This made it easier for residents to defend themselves against any enemy that might dare to enter.

The longhouses, approximately 55 feet long, 15 feet wide and 16 feet tall, were constructed of thin logs and sheets of tree bark.

We entered one of the structures and found ourselves standing in a room permeated with the smell of wood smoke from the two fireplaces inside. We were greeted with the words “kwi kwi” (hello or welcome) from a Huron woman dressed in yellowish coloured animal skins.

She stood in front of a 3-foot high shelf, fashioned from tree branches, running along the length of the wall. The shelf served as a bed platform for the residents after it was covered with animal skins. This longhouse would have accommodated as many as 12 families (60 to 80 people).

The Huron people were farmers and fishermen. We were shown a hoe fashioned from a moose scapula tied to the end of a tree branch and a rake made from long animal bones which were also tied to the end of a tree branch. A few thrusting spears and harpoons with stone spear heads were also visible on the shelves.

After viewing the display, we thanked our hostess and then set off to visit Diane’s family in the real Quebec City.

Quebec City

The Lower Town

Poof. We suddenly found ourselves in 21st century Quebec City, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, standing atop French Governor Frontenac’s 1691 Royal Battery. This stone battery once served to protect the harbor with 10 cannons to welcome any unwanted visitors. [Photo at top]

Our next stop was Place-Royale, a small square, that was once the site of Champlain’s original settlement. The Church of Nôtre-Dame-des-Victoires now stands on the site of Champlain’s first two habitations at Place-Royale; the first, a wooden structure erected in 1608, and the second, a partial stone structure built in 1624. Around the perimeter of the church, you find a series of black coloured tiles which outline the dimensions of Champlain’s second habitation.

Dating to 1688, the Church of Nôtre-Dame-des-Victoires is the oldest stone church in North America. Visit the interior of this church and then head over to the Place-Royale Museum, site of Champlain’s first trading post. When you exit the museum, make a point to stop and admire the large mural on the side of a building which depicts all the famous people associated with the city.

You may wish to wander around the Lower Town and shop for that perfect souvenir. When you are finished, it’s time to visit the Upper Town. You can either ride the funicular to the top or walk up the old windy road known as the rue Côte de la Montagne. Your walk includes the Champlain Steps, the oldest flight of steps in Quebec City. Feel free to catch your breath along the way and enjoy the spectacular view before you.

The Upper Town

Standing near the Champlain statue outside the Chateau Frontenac Hotel, we enjoyed the picturesque view of the Lower Town and the St. Lawrence River below. We then descended a stairway through the nearby Dufferin Terrace and found ourselves standing on the foundations of Fort St. Louis. This was the site of a succession of four different forts and two chateaus, all constructed between 1620 and 1834. These had all served as the residence of both French Governors and several British Governors General during the colonial period. Champlain himself was responsible for constructing the first two forts, both wooden structures, in 1620 and 1626 respectively. The third fort, built in 1693, was the first stone structure on site. Champlain’s personal quarters were located beneath the pantry of a later structure.

Other findings from later periods include the remnants of a kitchen with a large brick bread oven and hearth, an ice house with a wooden grate at the bottom to drain the melt water and a coal storage shed.

Champlain died on December 25, 1635 and was eventually interred in a chapel outside the fort three years later. This chapel burned down in 1640 and was ultimately replaced by the present-day Cathedral-Basilica of Notre Dame de Quebec. While the location of Champlain’s grave is still a mystery, Diane’s brother, Carl, noted that it was likely somewhere near the present-day cathedral.

Notre Dame de Quebec was the first Roman Catholic Cathedral constructed north of Mexico. As you enter the cathedral you pass beneath a stained-glass window over the front door depicting several Aboriginals. Inside, the apse showcases a statue of Jesus holding a large cross all set beneath several golden arches. A side chapel on the left houses the Saints Door which was gifted to the cathedral by Pope John-Paul II. This is the only holy door outside Europe.

Exit the cathedral through the front door and wander around the Upper Town. When you are finished you may wish to visit one or more of the local bars for a glass of wine. After passing through the Twilight Zone, Diane and I sure needed it.

If You Go:

QUEBEC CITY PRIVATE WALKING TOUR – 400 Years of French America

La Nouvelle France is located at 370 Vieux Chemin in St. Felix D’Otis near the City of Saguenay. Admission is $20.

The Church of Nôtre-Dame-des-Victoires is at 32 rue Sous-le-Fort.

The Place-Royale Museum is at 27 Place Royal.

The Chateau Frontenac is located at 1 rue de Carrieres. The Dufferin Terrace is right behind it.

The Cathedral-Basilica of Notre Dame de Quebec is at 16 rue de Buade.

Quebec City Helicopter Tour

 About the authors:

Troy Herrick, a freelance travel writer, has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. His articles have appeared in Live Life Travel, International Living, Offbeat Travel and Travels Thru History Magazines.

Diane Gagnon, a freelance photographer, has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. Her photographs have accompanied Troy Herrick’s articles in Live Life Travel, Offbeat Travel and Travels Thru History Magazines.

All photos by Diane Gagnon

by W. Ruth Kozak 

What better way to celebrate spring than at an idyllic spa resort? A year ago I was fortunate to win a door prize at the BC Travel Writer’s Assoc. annual symposium. The prize was a two-day stay at the Westin Bear Mountain spa/golf course part of a resort community on Vancouver Island.

The community of Bear Mountain, located just 20 kms north of Victoria, began as golf resort but has developed into a multi dimensional urban resort community for people who desire a quiet and heathy lifestyle. Built on the slopes of a rugged yet pristine mountain area the resort not only includes the two par Nicklaus Design golf course, but also offers other amenities to the visitor.

The Westin Bear Mountain Golf Resort Spa is a luxury five-star hotel set in the midst of the urban resort development of Langford. It features spacious newly renovated rooms with expansive views of the golf course fairways and the surrounding mountains. The hotel has a private wine cellar, unique outdoor recreation areas including tennis courts, a Fire Lounge and free access to the North Langford Recreation Centre which is located between the two hotel buildings. Besides the hotel amenities and spa there are biking/walking trails and a golf practice facility. The golf courses features 36 holes providing a perfect experience for year round golfing with panoramic mountain and ocean views. You can always bring your lightweight golf bag to play some while staying there.

I’m not a golfer but I was excited about going to visit Westin Bear Mountain to enjoy a Spring break. I arranged for a friend to come along, and then much to my delight I found out that the rooms accommodated four people. So I invited two other friends to join us. Because the invitation had to be used by the end of March 2018, I arranged for us to visit mid-March, a perfect Spring get-away after our long wet, west-coast winter.

We packed into one car and got the ferry to Swartz Bay and from there it was an easy drive up Island north-west through Langford to Bear Mountain. When we arrived and were given the room keys, imagine our delight when we found out that our “room” was actually a condo sized suite with a full kitchen, living room with a fireplace and balcony view of the golf greens, a large bedroom with a king-sized bed, and two bathrooms. The couch in the living room pulled out to make a double bed and the hotel provided us with an extra twin-sized cot for the fourth visitor.

The Bear Mountain village is a family friendly location with a Mountain Market nearby for shopping needs and Jack’s Place, a restaurant where we enjoyed several meals and entertainment. The Langford Recreation centre located between the two Westin hotel buildings, has a heated outdoor pool and offers year-round aqua-fit classes. The hotel’s award-winning spa services offer massages, body treatments and facials drawing from elements of nature to enhance your well-being, offering a full array of spa treatments, relaxation and renewal.

While one of my friend indulged in a full spa treatment at the hotel, we others swam in the warm pool at the Rec Centre, enjoying the lush ambience surrounding the outdoors, and a soak in the hot tub.

The area surrounding the resort is popular for bikers and hikers and the Rec centre provides bike rentals. We walked around the quiet trails that overlook the lush greens of the golf course, enjoying the quiet solitude of the woodland. One afternoon two of us decided to drive to Victoria to visit the museum, a quick and easy jaunt from the resort.

We couldn’t have enjoyed our weekend stay more. The Westin Bear Mountain Resort is an excellent get-away for all the family whether you’re a golfer or just want to relax and enjoy nature.

If You Go:

Victoria City Sightseeing Tour with Craigdarroch Castle

The Westin Bear Mountain Golf Resort & Spa, Victoria
1999 Country Club Way, Victoria BC  V9B 6R3
Toll-Free: 1 -800-WESTIN-1
Victoria: (250) 391-7160

North Langford Recreation Centre
Tel: 250-391-3758
Rec@bearmountain.ca
www.bearmountain.ca

On special holidays there is entertainment such as Bear Mountain Music, Halloween Festivals, Canada Day BBQ and the Bear Mountain Run, held for times a year.

Private Sightseeing Tour: Victoria & Butchart Gardens (13 hrs)

About the author:

W. Ruth Kozak has been an adventurer and travel writer for many years. She enjoys outdoor adventure experiences and travel to places like Greece and England but sometimes local trips are equally as enjoyable especially in the beautiful Canadian province where she lives, British Columbia, on the west coast of Canada.  Read Ruth’s blog.

Photos by W. Ruth Kozak

by John Geary

I could hear a familiar “Rat-a-tat-tat!” echo through the winter woods. Once I heard it, I stood stock still and listened, hoping to get a glimpse of the bird making the sound on a tree nearby.

It was dead-still, no wind, and the landscape muffled by a deep carpet of snow. I slowly turned my head around like it was on a swivel, trying to pinpoint where the sound was coming from. There! I spied it: a male downy woodpecker, tapping along a tree not far off the trail we’d been trudging along. I stood there watching it for several minutes, enjoying the bird’s sounds mixing with the gurgling of nearby Chelsea Creek that was not completely frozen over and the steady crunch-crunch-crunch of snowshoes biting into the snow along the trail as others of our group caught up or continued down the rail. I took a few minutes to snap some photos, then had to move on to keep up with the rest of the group.

We were spending a winter afternoon snowshoeing through woods of Gatineau Park, one of eastern Canada’s natural gems. Located not far from our country’s capital, Ottawa, just over the border in the province of Quebec, it’s a snowshoe aficionado’s dream, with roughly 60 km of trails set aside just for snowshoeing during the winter months, ranging from easy to difficult.

Often thought of as a sanctuary of nature and natural history – it is home to deer, beaver, black bear and nearly 230 bird species – the 36,000-hectare park lies in an area where the Canadian Shield meets the St. Lawrence Lowlands and where the Ottawa River meets the Gatineau River. In addition to its wonderful natural history, it also boasts a wonderful cultural history going back several centuries.

Author Katherine Fletcher writes of this rich history in her book, Historical Walks : The Gatineau Park Story, a wonderful resource to use to get the most enjoyment out of the park, whether you’re there in the winter, spring, summer, or fall.
We were there in winter, to spend an afternoon snowshoeing around the park’s trails, led by a park naturalist on a guided excursion. You can also do self-guided tours, but the first time you’ll often learn more if you use one of the park guides. They are well-versed in both the natural and cultural history of the park.

Just by choosing to travel the park by snowshoe is a choice to travel through history; snowshoes were used by the indigenous people of the area – the Anishinabe – whose history dates back some 8,000 years. It’s their footsteps we were walking in, breathing the air they’d breathed, hearing the same waterways they’d heard.

As several of our group had never been on snowshoes before, we were a bit limited in how far afield we could go during our tour. After getting outfitted with snowshoes in the visitor centre, we began our trip in the old “Sugar Shack,” with our guide telling about some of the history of the park.

Twenty minutes later, we were out on the trail, headed across Chelsea Creek over an old wooden bridge and onto the “Sugar Bush Loop.” The weather had been very good to us – just a few days before, it had been raining, but a cold spell quickly ended the rain and brought more snow to top what was already on the ground and almost-perfect weather for making like modern-day coureurs-de-bois (“runners of the woods”). Pierre Radisson and Médard des Groseilliers, step aside!

We were only on the trail about 15 minutes before our woodpecker friend showed up. Within another 10 minutes we saw signs of another of the park’s inhabitants: rabbit tracks. No sign of the bunny that made them, though.

We continued to tramp through the snowy woods for the next few hours, stopping from time to time as our guide pointed out or talked about interesting natural and cultural history aspects of the park.

Like many European settlers to North America, the first wave of immigrants from across the pond wanted to live by farming in the Gatineau area. However, the area’s rocky soil was not well-suited to agriculture, forcing them to turn to resource-based activities like hunting, fishing, forestry, and mining to earn a living from the land. Traces of homesteads and mines can still be seen in the park, today.

Although the fur trade was in full-swing during the early colonization of the area by the French and later the English in the late 17th, 18th, and early 19th centuries, the Gatineau area did not play a huge role as the trade developed into a large industry, for a variety of reasons: early on, the area was frequented by Iroquois and Algonquin tribes, so fighting often ensued between the traditional enemies.

Later on, location and size of the area rivers and other waterways – many which were too small for the bigger freighter canoes used by traders out of Montreal – saw them bypassed in favor of larger waterways, like the Ottawa River. (Interesting trivia point: a Gatineau family was involved in the fur trade – but they were based in Trois Rivieres a.k.a, Three Rivers.)

During the early 1800s, the area became very important for its timber resources, as the wood cut there went to build ships for the British navy. That continued for much of the century until changing technology reduced greatly the need for timber as wood gave way to metal in ship-building.

In the late 19th century, affluent residents in the Ottawa area began seeking outdoor recreation in the woods of the Gatineau Hills. Some – like William Lyon Mackenzie King – built cottages in the area. Some remains survive to this day, including remnants of the King estate, which grew from a simple summer cottage into an estate befitting a Canadian prime minister.

Of course, this was not a “park” officially until 1938, when the government began to acquire parcels of land and eventually turned it into the multi-use facility it is today, with historical, cultural, and natural attractions for visitors.

While we learned much of this from our guide during our tour stops, time prevented us from seeing many of the historic gems described, which were further afield in the park.

But that just provides an excuse to go back again, and spend time exploring the park and its history.

SUGGESTED SITES TO VISIT:

While I didn’t get a chance to investigate most of these in person, a few highlights you’ll want to try to see include…

The 231-hectare Mackenzie King country estate that belonged to Canada’s 10th and longest-serving prime minister.
The “Carbide” Willson ruins. Located at Meech Lake, the ruins of a generating station can be seen here.
The Sugar Shack; formerly located along the Sugar Bush Trail, now near the visitors’ centre, this is where we finished and started our hike. Built in 1972, it used to operate until cutbacks forced its closure. But it’s still a great place to warm up after an outing!

If You Go:

Getting to Ottawa from any major city in North America is not a problem; several international airlines service the international airport in Canada’s capital.

Gatineau Park’s main visitor centre and access to some of the trails is an easy 15 to 20-minute drive from Ottawa’s Parliament Hill.

Get on Autoroute 5 N in Hull, Gatineau from Wellington St/Ottawa 34, Portage Bridge and Boulevard Maisonneuve N. Follow Autoroute 5 N to Chemin Scott in Chelsea. Take exit 13 from Autoroute 5 N. Follow Chemin Scott to the park.

If snowshoeing, you can bring your own, or rent from the visitor centre. If you plan to rent – or if you plan to participate in a guided tour – contact the centre first to make you’ll be able to get shoes and a guide the day and time you want.

You may want to pick up a copy of the Fletcher book; it contains maps of the trails as well as a difficulty rating for each trail along with its comprehensive history of the park.

You’ll certainly want to check out the website ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places-to-visit/gatineau-park. Any contact info you need regarding use of the park can be found on that site.

You can also contact Tourism Ottawa.

The Friends of Gatineau can also be very helpful in planning your trip there – and they also offer some guided tours.

Other attractions you may want to visit while in Ottawa:

the Canadian Museum of History, located in the Hull area of Gatineau, again, very close to Ottawa.
the Canadian War Museum
the Canadian Museum of Nature

About the author:
John Geary is a full time freelance writer/photographer and social media manager with more than 30 years of experience working in broadcast, print, and digital media. He has traveled the world as a freelance travel journalist. He often focuses on birds and wildlife and paddling adventures in his travel writing.

Photographs by John Geary:
The Sugar Shack – where we began and ended our outing
Downy woodpecker doing its thing
Rabbit tracks! No sign of the bunny, though
Snowshoes are a great way to see the park in winter

by Darlene Foster

Medicine Hat, Alberta, is not often high on anyone’s must-visit list, if it’s there at all. But it should be. There are many reasons to visit this oasis in the Canadian prairies, here are ten of them.

The Name

Who wouldn’t want to visit a place with such a unique name? There are many stories about how the city acquired its unique name derived from the original First Nation’s name Saamis, which means The Medicine Man’s Hat. All the legends involve a feather headdress. One story tells of a battle between the Blackfoot and Cree in which a retreating Cree Medicine Man lost his headdress in the South Saskatchewan River at the place where Medicine Hat became a town. The city uses a feather headdress as its symbol. The locals simply call their town, “The Hat” and residents are often called, “Hatters”.

The World’s Largest Tepee

It’s hard to miss this towering structure as you enter Medicine Hat on the Trans-Canada Highway from either direction. Originally constructed for the Calgary 1988 Winter Olympics, the Saamis Tepee is a tribute to Canada’s native heritage. The colours of the structure are symbolic, white for purity, red for the rising and setting sun and blue for the flowing river. It is the World’s Tallest Tepee standing over 20 stories high, weighing 200 tonnes and capable of withstanding 150 mph winds. The ten round storyboards inside the Tepee are hand painted by various First Nations and Metis artists depicting native culture and history. Each storyboard comes with a written description by the artist. There is something magical about standing inside the large open-air Tepee on a sunny, prairie day. It makes me realize what a rich cultural heritage my country has.

Medalta Pottery

The city is blessed with clay perfect for making pottery, both functional and decorative. The pottery business once flourished in this century-old factory and its earthenware is renowned all over the world. The Medalta Pottery site has now become a museum, ceramic arts facility, art gallery and community hub where live music, markets and social events are held. One can wander the area and view the four huge brick beehive kilns, check out the museum and learn about the people and industry that helped make Medicine Hat. The gift shop sells replicas of the original pottery, made on site. No visit to Medicine Hat would be complete without a stop at the historic Medalta Pottery.

The Esplanade Arts and Heritage Centre

If you enjoy visiting the past, the museum located in this state-of-the-art facility is a delight. The displays follow the original First Nations People, to the settling of the west by Europeans, through the Second World War and the swinging sixties to present day. It really is a virtual walk through time. An ominous iron lung, a reminder of the polio scare from the early 1950s, will send a chill through you. Sepia coloured photo albums and audio recordings add to the experience. Besides the permanent display, interesting temporary exhibits can be viewed as well. An exhibition of women’s undergarments through the ages caught my attention on one visit. The centre is also a perfect place to take in musical and dramatic performances. Outside the building stands a bronze sculpture commemorating the German people from Russia who were instrumental in settling this area. I was proud to find my great grandfather’s name inscribed on the plaque.

James Marshall’s Sculptured Brick Murals

James Marshall is an internationally acclaimed Medicine Hat potter. He is renowned for his large-scale sculpted brick murals which can be found across Canada and overseas. Dozens of these murals are scattered about the city depicting its history and character. You will no doubt spot some as you make your way around. A splendid example of Mr. Marshall’s work can be seen at the Saamis Tepee as well as at the local Dairy Queen. A map from the Tourist Information office near the Saamis Tepee is available if you wish to take a self-guided tour to view these amazing works of art.

Red Rock Coulee

An interesting day trip to Red Rock Coulee, 56 kilometres (35 miles) south-west of Medicine Hat will not disappoint. This little-known area is a wonder to behold. Large, perfectly round, red boulders are scattered around a 324 hectare (800 acre) prairie landscape. Some of these boulders are up to 2.5 metres (8 feet) in diameter and are among the largest of these in the world. Virtually in the middle of nowhere, you will most likely have the place to yourself. It is like being on another planet! Research indicates these boulders were formed in prehistoric seas that once covered the area. Sand, calcite and iron oxide collected around a nucleus formed by shells, leaves or bones and grew as the circulating waters deposited more layers. The reddish colour comes from iron oxide. And I thought they were the result of a meteor shower! This is a great place to hike among the stones and view the prairie landscape. The only wildlife we saw were the resident mosquitoes which made us glad we brought bug spray.

 St. Patrick’s Roman Catholic Church

A prominent landmark in this city is St. Patrick’s Catholic Church. Inspired by the medieval cathedrals in Europe, it is said to be one of the finest examples of Gothic Revival architecture in all of North America. The church was declared a National Historic Site in 1990. Building began in 1912 and completed in 1914, with a number of renovations and improvements since. The amazing round rose windows, installed in 1955, were imported from France. New solid wood doors at the pointed-arch entrance were added in 1979. What is most striking is the copper roof affixed in 1977 covering the 170-foot twin spires that can be seen for miles. It is lovingly known as St. Pat’s by the local citizens.

Pioneer Village

Pioneer Village, located on the Medicine Hat Exhibition and Stampede grounds, is a collection of heritage buildings from the surrounding area including a general store, a church, a fire hall, a school and a blacksmith shop. Step back in time as you enter each building. The General Store is stocked with items from the past, with the original prices. Pails of Rodgers Golden Syrup, a ten pound tin for eighty-five cents, rest beside Aunt Jemima Pancake Mixes, and ashtrays in the shape of the legendary cowboy hat. How about a curling sweater or a wooden rocking horse? The yellowed calendar on the wall features Edward VIII and is dated January 1937. It’s like time stood still – or a Doctor Who episode.

The Farmer’s Market

If you are lucky enough to visit this fair city on a Saturday, a stop at the Farmer’s Market should be on your list. This is where you can stock up on local produce, farm fresh eggs, homemade jams and pickles, Eastern European delicacies such as perogies and mouth-watering desserts like kuchen; a pie-shaped coffee cake filled with custard, fruit and my favourite, cottage cheese. It’s best to come early as these popular items sell out fast. Tables of local crafts and art are available for sale as well. Stop by and visit with the friendly vendors who always have time for a chat. You will not come away empty-handed.

The Historic Downtown

Walking around downtown, past replicas of the original gaslights that line the streets and huge trees planted a hundred years ago shading heritage brick buildings, you can relax and forget the hustle and bustle of large urban cities. Stop and play a game of chess on the large chessboard by the well-stocked library. The original Monarch Theatre, where kids in the past could watch a Roy Rogers and Dale Evans feature for twenty-five cents, still stands. There are many well-kept parks, overflowing with colourful flowers to wander around and contemplate life. Enjoy a coffee or a bite to eat at the many coffee shops and restaurants downtown, serving wholesome, homemade fare. The accommodating residents and shopkeepers, as hardy as the extreme weather, will answer any questions you might have and share a story or two.

So instead of driving through Medicine Hat on the way to somewhere else, or just stopping for gas and a Tim Horton’s double-double, stop and stay awhile. You’ll be glad you did.

If You Go:

Medicine Hat is on the TransCanada Highway, 296 Km (184 miles) east of Calgary and 465 Km (289 miles) west of Regina.

Air Canada flies into the recently renovated Medicine Hat airport.

About the author:
Darlene Foster is a dedicated writer and traveller. She is the author of a series of books featuring Amanda, a spunky young girl who loves to travel to interesting places such as the United Arab Emirates, Spain, England and Eastern Europe, where she always has an adventure. When not travelling herself, Darlene divides her time between the west coast of Canada and the Costa Blanca of Spain with her husband and entertaining dog. www.darlenefoster.ca

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Photo credits:
World’s largest teepee at night by Ken Eckert under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International license
All other photos by Darlene Foster.

Walking across the grassy field to the Stone House Interpretive Centre, it was almost as if you could still hear people talking, going about their daily business as usual among the log buildings scattered around on top of the bluff overlooking the Yukon River.

Of course, no one had lived permanently at Fort Selkirk in the Yukon Territory since the 1950s, when the highway between Whitehorse and Dawson City went through. Prior to that, if you wanted to get from the territorial capital to the settlement, or further downriver to the city associated with the Klondike Gold Rush of the late 19th century, you had to use the river or fly in, once that type of transportation came into use.

The highway did not go anywhere near Fort Selkirk, located on the west bank of the Yukon River; at that point, the highway was several miles away over on the east side of the river.

Established as a trading post by the Hudson’s Bay Company in 1852, the fort evolved into a permanent community in the early 1890s. The gold stampede swelled its population and it became a base for both the Yukon Field Force and a Northwest Mounted Police post.

While it existed as a permanent community, both white and First Nations cultures worked and lived together amicably. That partnership remains today, as the Selkirk First Nation and Yukon governments co-manage the site.

Anyone doing a multi-day canoe trip on the river stops there, as there is a very nice campground for trippers next to the historic site. No matter what your paddling schedule, you’ll want to allow at least a few hours to explore the small museum and other buildings –a church, a store, residences, to name a few – to really appreciate it.

Fort Selkirk is just one of many amazing historical sites to visit in the Yukon.

And while not everyone will be up for a canoe trip to get there – or to Dawson City – you can drive from Whitehorse along Highway 2.

Dawson City really is a “living museum” with its boardwalks and clapboard-style of architecture in most of the buildings which are not residences.

Just strolling down the street looking for a place to enjoy breakfast my first morning there, I felt like I was walking in the footsteps of numerous sourdoughs (a word used for miners in the Yukon) … or maybe even in more famous footsteps – like those of authors Jack London or Robert Service, who both spent time there.

INTERPRETIVE TOURS

Parks Canada plays a significant role in keeping the history alive and making sure people have an opportunity to experience the site as fully as possible. One of the best ways to ensure you enjoy the full experience is to sign up for one or more of their tours at the Visitor Information Centre along the community’s Front Street, just a nugget’s throw from the river.

One of the first things I did was sign up for a tour that took us to the old post office, the newspaper office and a building that holds many of the archival materials dating back to the gold rush.

The tour starts off with everyone donning white gloves so as not to leave any oils or smudges on the artifacts you’ll be allowed to handle. There are several historical pieces located right in the visitor centre, and we warm up our “historical trivia minds” with some of these, as the guide prodded our curiosity by asking questions about the artifacts, testing our knowledge of the past at the same time.

Then it’s off to our next tour stop, a block or two away: the post office.

Apart from looking at the facility which used to handle all the mail coming into the centre of the Klondike gold rush, we had the opportunity to examine some more artifacts – including an original first edition book written by Robert Service.

This book – Why Not Grow Young? – was not one of poetry, though; it was a non-fiction book he’d written about healthy practices that would help you live longer. Robert Service – an early 20th-century Dr. Oz! Who knew?

After looking at some “old mail” packages and envelopes and some post office public notices on the walls, we headed down the street to the Dawson Daily News – or what used to be the city’s newspaper office and presses. After checking out the press equipment used to print the day’s news, we had the opportunity to read some actual newspapers that were published on the very day we were visiting – but back in the early 20th century. Very interesting reading about items like the “recent Wall Street slump” and news of the Kaiser from Europe (this was before The Great War, remember). Even the ads were quite interesting: white golf sweaters for women, travel ads for rail lines and steamships, and food ads for products like “Juicy Clark’s Pork and Beans.”

Our final stop took us to a building which houses several archives not on display in the other buildings.

LITERARY HISTORY

A brisk 15-minute walk from the visitor centre takes you to the Robert Service Cabin. Again, a Parks Canada interpreter helps make the experience come alive. Dressed in the fashion style that the poet of the Yukon would have probably been decked out in, stories and poems pour forth from the guide’s mouth, painting a picture of the man who went there as a bank clerk, but grew to become the creator of such famous verses as “The Cremation of Sam McGee” and “The Shooting of Dan McGrew.” I learned that he wrote much more than poetry about the north and the gold rush; he was quite prolific when it came to poetry about the First World War, as well.

After the presentation, we spent several minutes in his restored cabin (he lived in it from 1909 to 1912), which contains some of the original historic artifacts, including a writing desk, writing materials, tools, oil lamps, wood stove, telephone and his bed.

A few minutes down the road from the Service cabin sits the Jack London Museum. It contains some pieces of the original cabin the American author stayed in during his foray into gold-seeking; half of the logs are here, the other half at a similar museum in San Francisco, where he lived in the U.S. The museum contains several photos and other memorabilia pertaining to London’s time in the Yukon, and a video display that continually rotates Hollywood movies based on his writing. An interpreter gives talks about his life at several times during the day.

While you’re in the neighbourhood, take a few minutes to take a quick look at the Pierre Berton home across from the Service cabin. A resident of the community as a boy growing up, the Canadian author was a big advocate of his hometown and its history.

PADDLEWHEELER ADVENTURES

Another historic site worth checking out is the SS Keno. The old sternwheeler is berthed in a dry dock on the waterfront. Built in 1922 by the British Yukon Navigation Company, it steamed along transporting silver, zinc and lead ore down the Stewart River from mines in the Mayo district to the confluence of the Yukon and Stewart rivers at Stewart City. It was retired from commercial service in 1951, again because of highway construction.

Better still, why not take a step back into time and ride on a paddlewheeler like the old sourdoughs use to sail up and down the river on?

The Klondike Spirit cruises up and down the Yukon with several tours daily on most days from mid-May to early September. An interpreter explains what you see along the way; you’ll see a paddlewheeler graveyard, a First Nations community, and the spot where an old hermit used to live just upstream and across the river from the city.

DON’T FORGET THE NIGHTLIFE!

Before leaving Dawson City for other adventures, you’ll want to check out some of the nightlife that recalls the kinds of entertainment enjoyed by the sourdoughs. A trip to Diamond Tooth Gertie’s with its turn-of-the-century stage shows is a must-see.

SourToe Cocktail

Whether you check out the dance hall girls or not, you’ll probably regret not joining the SourToe Club before leaving Dawson. Go to the Sourdough Saloon and ask for Captain River Rat. Then you purchase a shot of your choice – rye whisky, rum, vodka, or as many choose, Yukon Jack. I opted for rye when I did it, as they were out of YJ.

Then you just take the “SourToe Oath,” watch as an actual dehydrated human toe is added to your drink, and cheers! Down it (the booze, not the toe!) and you’re in!

There’s an interesting story about how this tradition began, but I’ll let you discover just what that is when you go for your cocktail.

Just remember, there is one rule: “You can drink it fast, you can drink it slow, but your lips have gotta touch the toe!”

And look at it this way: your lips are touching a part of history. And isn’t that what this journey is all about?

If You Go:

Getting there

The starting point for any trip to the Yukon is Whitehorse. Both Air Canada and Air North fly in to the territorial capital regularly.

For planning your trip itinerary, start with the Travel Yukon website; it can give you lots of ideas and contact information to help you plan your trip:

From Whitehorse, you can either fly into to Dawson City or drive Highway 2. There are car rental agencies in the capital.

If you have a mind to canoe on the Yukon River to see Fort Selkirk, Up North Adventures can supply gear, food, and guides.

Other helpful links:

Klondike Spirit Paddlewheeler Cruises

Dawson City Visitor Centre

Parks Canada Klondike Historic Sites

About the author:
John Geary is a full time freelance writer-photographer based in Vancouver, B.C. He often specializes in stories that involve paddling and bird/wildlife watching but has always been an avid history buff since the fifth grade, when he heard tales of Marco Polo that kick-started his longing for exploration and adventure.

Photos by John Geary

1. The edge of the Fort Selkirk historic site
2. One of the homestead buildings at Fort Selkirk
3. The newspaper office
4. One of the artifacts in the post office: An original Robert Service book
5. A food cache outside the Jack London Museum
6. All aboard! The Klondike Spirit is getting ready to shove off

by Troy Herrick

During the 16th and 17th centuries, Renaissance Europe extended itself out into the New World in search of wealth and to spread Christianity. The Spanish employed a more direct approach through conquest, looting and the forcible conversion of the Aboriginal population of Central and South America to the Catholic Faith. The French, on the other hand, had a more peaceful and cooperative approach with their stone age contemporaries through trading posts and Christian missions. European manufactured goods were exchanged for the Indians’ animal pelts while Jesuit priests would spread Christianity and conversion was voluntary. Both cultures benefited, evolved and prospered.

The origins of Canada’s resource-based economy date back to the 17th century with the establishment of New France – a private colony run by a French fur trading company. Where is the best location for a trading post? The answer was obvious. Go where the Aboriginals gather or camp. It all began on the north shore of the St. Lawrence River at the site known as Tadoussac where the first in a string of trading posts and missions was established.

Tadoussac

Tadoussac has the distinction of being the oldest village in Canada as well as the oldest surviving French settlement in the Americas. Pierre de Chauvin, who was granted a fur trading monopoly by King Henry IV, chose this site for colonization and a small trading post in 1600 because it was already known to Basque and Norman whalers. Tadoussac was also a traditional Aboriginal site for barter. What better location for having the furs brought directly to you? There was also a safe bay for sheltering ships. All Chauvin had to do was supply the settlement with items for trade and colonists.

Unfortunately, what Chauvin overlooked was the rugged terrain, poor soil and cold winters in this region, all of which proved to be quite taxing. Only 5 of the original 16 ill-prepared colonists survived the first winter and that was only because of Aboriginal intervention with food, shelter and natural medications. This trading relationship flourished and by 1603 the French were welcomed by the people they had named Montagnais or “Mountain People” as permanent settlers and as allies.

During the height of the French Fur Trading Period, Tadoussac Bay was filled with trans-Atlantic sailing vessels. Even today it is not unusual to find tall ships arriving. On the day of our visit there was a lone two-masted ship anchored offshore and it was flying the Jolly Roger.

Feeling that we would not encounter any pirates today, we walked to the site of the oldest trading post in Canada. The present Chauvin Trading Post structure, dating to 1942, is a well-worn replica of the original. You find a steeply pitched red roof over rough cut wooden walls. The peeling white paint on the exterior walls betrays the age of the structure. This property is enclosed within a 4-foot high wooden fence made from 2 to 3-inch thick tree branches. Two wigwam frames and a life-sized wooden Indian carved from a tree trunk complete the décor.

Inside you find a stone fireplace in the centre of the room and a canoe suspended from the ceiling. French fur traders learned how to travel along the rivers and lakes of the new land from the Indians by means of such a canoe and it was their lifeline.

Displays include examples of typical European items for trade such as axes, knives, metal pots, blankets, coats and even milled flour. The French did not provide alcohol for trade. Other displays include samples of various pelts such as beaver, martin, wolf and bear. Beaver was the most highly-prized pelt because it was used for fashionable men’s hats in Europe at the time. The French developed a reputation for fair trade as they could not afford to risk losing their sole source of furs – their allies the Montagnais.

Jesuit missionaries later arrived to establish the first mission in 1640 and build upon the friendly relations between the French and the Montagnais. Their goal was to convert the Indians to Christianity.

A short walk down the street from the trading post, you find the Petite Chapelle de Tadoussac, the oldest wooden church in Canada. Dating to 1747, this church was associated with the early Jesuit Mission. Oriented toward the St. Lawrence River, the exterior of the church features white-washed walls and a bright red roof and steeple. Climb the 8 stone steps and enter the church. Inside you find a very basic, rough wooden interior with two rows of eight pews in the nave. The rectangular interior ends in a semi-circular chancel housing a white altar decorated with gold colored trim. Behind the altar is a sacristy. This church is known to house some of the original items used in the first mass celebrated here but I was not able to confirm this with anyone.

Over time, local fur resources were depleted which necessitated traders to extend their reach out further by means of more distant trading posts such as those at Chicoutimi and Metabetchouane to the northwest. This was facilitated by the coureurs des bois (runners of the woods). Qualifications for such a position included a willingness to go native, paddling a canoe for up to 18 hours a day and capable of carrying at least two 90-pound bundles of furs at a time over a portage. Some portages were as long as 6 miles. Such a harsh lifestyle was not financially conducive to a comfortable and early retirement. Hernias and other serious injuries were common.

The coureurs des bois traveled up the Saguenay Fjord to Chicoutimi by water. Diane and I had a car and we did not have to lug heavy packs around portages. This allowed us to appreciate the beauty of the deeply chiseled Laurentian Mountains and the fjord, both having been carved out over successive ice ages. Steep rock faces ran along the river and heights of more than 450-feet were not uncommon along the way to Chicoutimi.

Chicoutimi

The Chicoutimi Trading Post and Jesuit Mission were established as early as 1676 on the site of an earlier Aboriginal settlement. At its peak, there were as many as 10 buildings including a chapel, store, clerk’s house and lodging for a Jesuit missionary. All good things must come to an end and this trading post was closed in 1856. The site continued to host a functioning chapel until 1930 when it too was demolished. Now all that remains is a marker to commemorate the trading post. With this we drove on to Metabetchouane Trading Post at Des Biens.

Des Biens

The Montagnais would tell horror stories to the French about scary monsters and dangers lurking in the Lac St. Jean in order to keep them out of the region filled with rich fur resources. This changed in 1647 when Jesuit missionary Jean de Quen was guided into the Des Bien area to assist with treating a large number of ill people. At the time, De Quen made no mention of the Metabetchouane River entering the lake at this location but he did not leave without establishing a church in the vicinity.

The accessibility of this location was not apparent until a second Jesuit, Charles Albanel, returned to attend a meeting of twenty Indian nations in 1671. Five years later the St. Charles Mission and the Metabetchouane Trading Post were operating at the mouth of the river on the site of a traditional Indian camp. Now exchanging goods was more convenient for both parties.

The Metabetchouane Centre of History and Archeology and Metabetchouane Trading Post details this period in history. A chart on the wall outlines the value of each European item in terms of beaver pelts. Items sought by the Montagnais had to be portable because of their nomadic lifestyle and had to improve their living conditions in such a harsh environment. These included rifles, powder horns, axes, scythes, hand drills, tin cups, metal pots, blankets, clothing and sail canvas which replaced animal skins on wigwams and long houses. Samples of these are displayed on the rough cut wooden walls inside the centre.

Cultural exchanges were also both desirable and inevitable as the coureurs des bois would winter with the Indians to ensure their own survival. They learned to construct birch bark canoes, toboggans and snowshoes. They lived off the land and survived on native foods that were unknown in Europe at the time like pumpkin, artichokes, maple syrup and moose and beaver meat.

Outside on the grounds is a reproduction of a small church. The original 1849 structure was built by the Hudson Bay Company on the site of Jean de Quen’s original church. A steeple with a cross crowns the rough-cut gray plank walls below. Just to the left of the church is a stone memorial dedicated to De Quen.

The grounds also contain a small powder magazine built some time before 1778. Look for the stone structure with gray wooden shingles and wooden door. Nearby is an A-frame roof covering a dome-shaped stone oven with two cast iron doors. A wigwam covered with sail canvas is also on site.

After touring the grounds, walk or drive through the narrow underpass down towards the water. Near the white gazebo, you find yourself standing on the site of the Hudson’s Bay Trading Post. The French trading post was situated opposite this spot on the other side of the river. We were unable to reach this site as we would have had to pass over private property. The French abandoned the Metabetchouane Trading Post in 1696 but the Hudson’s Bay Company resurrected it between 1768 to 1880 before finally closing it and moving to nearby Mashteuiatsh.

Mashteuiatsh

Present-day Mashteuiatsh, a First Nations Reservation on the shore of Lac St. Jean, is where you can learn about the Montagnais Culture as taught by the Montagnais themselves. While the French had named them Montagnais, they call themselves Pekuakamiulnuatsh or the People of the Shallow or Flat Lake because Lac St. Jean is only about ten feet deep at most.

The museum reflects the nomadic ways of the Pekuakamiulnuatsh and how their lives changed with the seasons. They collected berries in the summer, hunted moose in the fall and fished and trapped animals in the winter. Displays include the various tools used for survival.

A very informative audio helps to put their lifestyle into perspective and how they lived off the land. They transported their worldly goods by toboggan, hunted moose using rifles and fished with the aid of nets. They also assembled V-shaped hunting tents capable of sheltering up to 8 individuals. A portable wood burning stove, obtained by means of trading, provided warmth on those cold winter nights.

Outside on the grounds you can stroll through a forest interpretation trail known as the Nutshimatsh. Here you find local plants, trees and shrubs that were used for shelter, travel (toboggans and snowshoes), food (blueberries, wild cherries, raspberries) and medicines. I felt a sense of peace and tranquility come over me as I walked along these pathways.

Finally, this is the only place where you will find a wooden framed longhouse (shaputuan) that is capable of housing as many as 10 or 12 families wishing to settle in one location for a longer period of time. The shaputuan was approximately 36 feet long and 18 feet wide with a 12-foot high arched sail canvas roof. Warmth was provided during the winter by placing pine branches on the ground in addition to the portable wood burning stove with a chimney extending through the roof.

Continue your visit at the nearby Uashassihtsh Cultural Centre where you see traditional Pekuakamiulnuatsh craftspeople at work. The Pekuakamiulnuatsh were dependant upon the birch bark canoe for their survival and they viewed it as both living and as a source of life. At the cultural centre, they construct birch bark canoes using traditional methods. Two people can construct a canoe in two weeks using an axe or a crooked knife and a few other tools. The final product weighs about 85 lbs and is light enough for two people to carry it over a portage.

Our guide showed us a 20-inch diameter tambourine-like drum fashioned using a leather hide stretched over a circular wooden frame. She indicated that such a drum was a traditional hunting tool. While my first thought was that it would more likely scare the animals away, I could not have been more wrong. The elders would beat this drum and enter a trance-like state. Upon awakening they reported where the best hunting grounds were to be found.

The Pekuakamiulnuatsh hunted animals of all sizes and then processed the hides into leather. These were tied to and stretched out on wooden frames followed by softening them with bear fat, scraping them using caribou bone tools and finally preserving them using the smoke from an open fire in order to kill the bacteria. The leather was then used for clothing, gloves, moccasins and snowshoes.

Snowshoes were woven from strips of moose leather. An expert craftsman such as the one on site usually requires at least a day to weave a single snowshoe. At the time of our arrival he had just completed a snowshoe whose shape was somewhat reminiscent of a tennis racket at 3 feet long and approximately 20 inches wide, although styles and shapes do vary.

Meat and fish were preserved by being placed on the shelves of an almost conical wooden drying rack whose base was approximately 5-feet in diameter. Bannock, a traditional corn bread, was also available for tasting. I found the taste to be slightly reminiscent to that of regular white bread.

The final stop at the cultural centre was the general store where shelves were stocked with European goods including shortening, lard, baking powder, tea, oil lamps, china plates, cups, hats, clothing and blankets. You also find a number of animal pelts on the counter – beaver, lynx, otter, bear, wolf – suggesting that this was more than just a general store; it was also a trading post. This would appear to be a reproduction of the Hudson’s Bay Trading Post that was moved to Mashteuiatsh from Metabetchouane. I could not confirm that this was the original site of that trading post however.

Upon exiting the Uashassihtsh Cultural Centre, it is a short drive over to the Church of St. Kateri Tekakwitha. This very modern-looking church is dedicated to the first and only Aboriginal Saint to date. While there has been a church present on site since 1896, this one dates to 1987 and has a First Nations interior décor. The apse features a large crucifix hanging behind the altar flanked by a snowshoe on each side. The hand-carved statues of Mary and Joseph both have a natural wood finish, as does the wooden altar. The Chapel of St. Kateri on the right side of the nave houses her relic, a bone fragment taken from her lower sternum.

After leaving the church, I had a better appreciation for the relationship between the French and the Pekuakamiulnuatsh over the course of history. The French first came into contact with a stone age people yet they would not have survived in this harsh new environment without their assistance. At the same time, the lifestyle of the Pekuakamiulnuatsh was clearly improved through trade with the French. This may in fact be the only true example of peaceful co-existence in the New World where both parties benefited from associating with the other as opposed to being at odds.

If You Go:

Tadoussac is situated on the north shore of the St. Lawrence River, 134 miles east of Quebec City.

The Chauvin Trading Post (Poste de Traite Chauvin) is located at 157, rue Bord De L’Eau, just above Tadoussac Bay. Admission is $5.

The Chapelle de Tadoussac is located at rue du Bord-de-l’Eau C.P. 219, just down the street from the Chauvin Trading Post. Admission is free.

Chicoutimi is located on the Saguenay River, 78 miles from Tadoussac.

The Chicoutimi Trading Post site was located in the wooded area between boulevard du Saguenay and rue Price.

Des Biens is on the south shore of Lac St. Jean, 46.8 miles west of Chicoutimi.

The Metabetchouane Centre of History and Archeology and Metabetchouane Trading Post (Centre D’Histoire et D’Archeologie del al Metabetchouane and Poste De Trait Metabetchouane) is located at 243 rue Hébert. Admission is $8.

Mashteuiatsh is approximately 20.8 miles west from Des Biens.

The Native Museum of Mashteuiatsh is located at 1787 Rue Amishk in Mashteuiatsh. Admission is $12.

The Uashassihtsh Cultural Centre (Site de Transmission Culturelle – Uashassihtsh) is located at 1514 Rue Ouiatchouan in Mashteuiatsh. Admission is $15.

The Church of St. Kateri Tekakwitha is located at 1787 Rue Amishk in Mashteuiatsh. Admission is free.

About the author:
Troy Herrick, a freelance travel writer, has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. His articles have appeared in Live Life Travel, International Living, Offbeat Travel and Travels Thru History Magazines

Photographs:
Diane Gagnon, a freelance photographer, has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. Her photographs have accompanied Troy Herrick’s articles in Live Life Travel, Offbeat Travel and Travels Thru History Magazines.

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Our photo club group reaches Summerland, British Columbia, for some destination photography. We corkscrew up a rural road to reach our accommodations at Wildhorse Mountain Ranch B and B where a welcome party of three enthusiastic canines greets us. Unloaded and settled into our rooms, our itinerary unfolds.

On day one we head to Summerland’s Ornamental Gardens followed in the afternoon by a scheduled steam train ride. While at the gardens we are teased by a glimpse of the seventy-three-metre high Trout Creek Trestle Railway Bridge. Touted as an engineering triumph when it was built in 1913, it’s B.C.’s highest railway trestle and the third highest in North America.

Regrettably, the steam train no longer crosses that trestle. But thanks to an active heritage society and to multi-level government funding, it chugs along a preserved ten-kilometre track from the Prairie Valley Railway Station through to Canyon View Siding. And we learned later that the train does back onto the bridge for viewing and photography.

After lunch we press on towards the Kettle Valley Steam Railway to make our 1:30 reservation.

Departure time will be slightly delayed we’re told. But the reason for the delay–a movie crew filming a period piece with actors dressed in early 20th century attire, delivers photo ops. That, and the chronicled history and features inside and out the train station, keep us reading and keep our cameras clicking.

Uncovering the raison-d’etre for this little railway south of the CPR mainline, becomes a pursuit. Why was Andrew McCulloch, chief engineer for the Canadian Pacific Railway, (CPR) tasked with building the Coast-to-Kootenay Railway? Canada’s most westerly province, British Columbia, had already been enticed to join Canadian Confederation in 1871 by Prime Minister John A. MacDonald’s promise to build a railway from Montreal to the west. However, the CPR mainline completed in 1885, was too far north to transport the Okanagan’s fruit and the Southwest’s newly discovered silver. Canada’s western ports of New Westminster and Vancouver were being left out of the ‘silver’ loop. No cross border protections existed at that time, so Americans were seizing the mineral wealth and transporting it south to connect with the United States’ Great Northern Railway. All this factored in to the CPR directors’ sanctioning the construction of this new line.

“All aboard!” Our reading is interrupted by a robust-voiced conductor. The movie crew concluded their shoot and we now eagerly line up to board. Authentic period-costumed folks––conductor, engineer, and Felix, a charismatic banjo player, along with a team of friendly volunteers, welcome you as you set foot onto the train. For photo enthusiasts, it’s an easy choice between two seating options–open-sided wagons or 1950’s vintage closed coaches. Our eager group scurries to the last open car. After achieving the best viewing spots, we agree to switch sides for the return ride. Once settled in, our journey powered by 2-8-0 steam locomotive 3716, ‘The Spirit of Summerland’ commences.

Built in 1912, the N2 B Class locomotive was said to be “under boilered” as its two engines could consume steam faster than the fireman could make it! The two engines designation came about as each set of cylinders and rods in this cleverly designed locomotive could work independently should there be a malfunction. Locomotive 3716 has a back-up diesel engine–the 1956 S6, 115-ton, 6 cylinder 2S1B Prime Mover. While our group chose the more modern open air coach, the enclosed, restored 1940’s vintage coaches, would be a better choice for cooler, inclement weather, especially the seasonal Christmas Train Ride.

Dressed to match the times, Felix, a delightful banjo-playing songster, kicks off in our section with some classic favourites, ‘I’ve Been Working on the Railroad’ and ‘You are my Sunshine’. Requests are welcomed as he wanders through the cars. And he can pretty much play any tune asked for. Conductor Ron, provides educational and humourous commentary as we snake along the route.

We weave around pine forests opening onto the fertile Prairie Valley. There unfold views of vineyards, wineries, and orchards. The proximity of carved slabs of colossal rock remind us of the challenges faced by McCulloch’s crew. A repetitive metal on metal cadence of the wheels on tracks blend with the engine’s din. Billowing smoke from the stack emits an acrid odour, completing the retro sensory experience.

Shrill whistle sequences signal the stop at Trout Creek Canyon. Here we disembark for the grand view, a leg stretch and more photos, of course. Accommodating, patient crew pose with passengers while other folks dart around the train snapping images of the locomotive and valley from different angles. Again, the whistle signals, this time for us to board for the return trip. We change sides, relax as veteran passengers now, and take in the landscape.

Having served a timely purpose, the little rail line that could, five hundred kilometres traversing three mountain ranges, came to an end due to air and vehicle transportation advancements and to unforgiving winters taking their toll.

The Kettle Valley Steam Railway experience not only has regular trips, but also offers the ‘Great Train Robbery and BBQ’, an Easter and Mother’s Day train. Regular season starts the third week of May.

Leaving Prairie Valley Station at the journeys end, we feel thankful that the folks in the heritage society took on the initiative to preserve this gem of Canadian railway history.

If You Go:

To plan your trip and book your tickets, visit the comprehensive Kettle Valley Railway website.

Beat the Bottleneck: Summerland Full-Day Wine Tour

About the author:
Karen is an award-winning photographer, CAPA (Canadian Association for Photographic Art) District Representative, and past president of the Delta Photo Club. When her thirty-year career as an educator ended, she was able to focus more time on her passions of photography, travel and writing.

All photos by Karen Pacheco

British Columbia, Canada

by Glen Cowley 

There are places that tell your body and mind to slow down; to let the world come to you in unhurried steps. Places as beautiful as they are restful, as intrinsically informative as a guided tour yet far from the madding crowd.

This is one of those places.

Thetis Island is one of the lesser known but no less appealing of the Gulf Islands of B.C.; an archipelago of emerald jewels resting off the coast of southern Vancouver Island amid the Salish Sea. Named after the 36 gun British Frigate H.M.S.Thetis which plied these waters from 1851 to 1853, the island is home to around 350 permanent residents. Its tranquility maintains itself through all seasons but is even more pronounced during the off season when you can share a spot on the shoreline with no one but nature’s critters.

The fair weather of late February saw us embarking on the BC ferry, Kuper Island, for the 25 minute scenic cruise from the tourist town of Chemainus to Preddy Bay, Thetis Island. Churning out from the harbour we were blessed with a hurried sweep below our bow by a pre-occupied cormorant. Even from a distance we could make out the tended pastoral grounds of Capernwray, the Bible College representing but one of 25 associated colleges spread through 20 countries.

Though frequent visitors to the island this trip was a first for we had rented an oceanside cabin at Overbury Farm Resort. Still in the family of the original 1909 homesteader Geraldine Hoffman the farm, which originally gained renown for its eggs, became a resort in the 1930’s and pursues that legacy with manored elegance to this day. Our self-contained, modern cabin was a short forest walk to the gracefully aging and carefully tended manor house on Crescent Point, which owns a magnificent setting and ocean view, set amidst lawn, gardens and trees.

Our self catering cabin was blessed with a view over Preddy Bay to Vancouver Island’s multi- hued spine. The day view of harbour, islands and passing birds; the evening asparkle with the lights of Chemainus. In between we drank in the reddening glow of sunset.

A trail led to beach and shoreline. To our right spread the nature carved sandstone artistry for which the Gulf Islands are famed while to our left smiled the crescent pebble beach spreading below the manor house. If so inclined, the shoreline at low tide opens up a scenic stroll along Preddy Bay to the ferry dock. An early morning visit allowed me a stab at sketching while enjoying a sea side panorama complete with entertainment. Two Buffle Heads winged past in furious haste, their wings squeaking emphatically. An indifferent bald eagle soared gracefully above in every expanding circles. A river otter slowly pushed his way towards shore, disappearing underwater in silence shortly before reaching land. A float plane droned by. A lone sailboat caught the wind. The panorama set across Stuart Channel backed by the snow dusted Island mountains. Time passed slowly as I watched an incoming tide methodically widen its reach across the hollows and curves of the sandstone shore. The busy world of man seemed age away.

Owner Norm Kasting told us of a short cut trail through the forest to St. Margaret’s Cemetery and from there to the Capernwray grounds which cut off a good 30 minutes in our trek to the Telegraph Harbour Marina and Pub. As it is our wont to walk and explore we found our way to the cemetery and read, amid the tended lawn setting, how it was donated as a cemetery by early Island resident Henry Burchell in 1927. Its turf was even earlier turned to welcome the remains of a Burchell in 1924. It has since become the final resting place of a number the Overbury Farm-owning family, including pioneering Geraldine Hoffman.

One headstone remembers Arthur Jackson, a Thetis Islander who passed away from war wounds in Victoria in 1919. There too is recounted the memory of Daniel George Culver (1952 to 1993) the first Canadian to climb Mt. Everest and K2. His adventurous life ended in Pakistan but his legacy included the purchase and preservation of nearby Jedediah Island as a marine park.

A gateway opened to the grounds of Capernwray and access to wide grinning Preddy Bay beach where you can wander and explore with tended grounds behind and Vancouver Island panorama before. Capernwray asks that if you wish to enjoy walking their idyllic grounds that you check in at their office behind Preddy Hall. The whitewashed hall stands singularly elegant at the centre of the grounds. And walking their grounds is worth it. There are cared-for lawns with gardens, ponds and visiting Canada Geese, sedate Holstein cattle dotting the greens and views out to Chemainus from whence you can spot the ferry leisurely making its endless crossing. Capernwray offers the opportunity to dine at their hall, which dates back to 1927, along with the students. (Call to reserve 250-246-9440).

After a healthy jaunt the refreshments afforded at the Thetis Island Marina and Pub are most welcomed. Though the kitchen is closed over the off season there are some non-cooked options and always a brew or coffee available. Inside or out the view over Telegraph Harbour is compelling. The long finger of sea rests between Thetis and Penelekut Island, long the home of the Penelekut Nation. In late Spring you can watch the gathering of eagles for the rituals of mating, teaching the young and socializing. They dot the trees of the opposite shore and cavort in the spaces between.

A stroll along Foster Point Road to the south of the island takes you past a massive Arbutus tree compelling the road to go around it. Grand as it is it is but second best to another, which rests near the community hall, and is acclaimed the largest Arbutus in B.C. A spider network of paved and unpaved roads offers up miles of leisurely strolling and exploring.

For hardy cyclists with thighs of steel the island affords challenging hill climbs with vistic rewards. We opted for motorized travel to climb Pilkey Point Road and take in the view from Pilkey Point. Here the sandstone sculpted shoreline is made for scrambling and vistas of the snow capped Coastal Mountain Range. An ideal place for the avid photographer to catch an early sunrise etched against the serrated teeth of the mainland peaks.

A quiet inland hike can be picked up near the one room school house. Here the solitude of an enveloping forest can hush the busiest of minds.

To enhance a longer island stay you can always take in the famed live theatre at the purpose built Chemainus Theatre which is but a short walk from the ferry terminal, stroll about town taking in the many famed wall murals depicting its vibrant history, put in a round of golf at Mount Brenton Golf course or explore short hiking trails all without need of a car. For scuba divers there is the sunken Boeing 737 jet harbouring its unique menagerie of sea life.

Our goal had been to leave the world behind for three days and live without a schedule in an idyllic setting. In this Overbury and Thetis met our desires. Waking to views, tranquility, the chirping of birds and an unhurried raccoon rumbling across the lawn with an ocean vista backdrop our goal was amply met.

If You Go:

♦ Thetis can be reach by ferry from Chemainus
♦ Seair provides daily float plane service, from the pub at Telegraph Harbour, to and from Victoria and Vancouver
♦ There is limited shopping on the island, being largely restricted to the small convenience store at the marina pub however there is a grocery store, the 49th Parallel, beside the ferry dock at Chemainus.
♦ Overbury Farms Resort is hosted by Norm and Arlene Kasting
♦ You can pick up a handy Thetis Island map at the tourism information office at the Chemainus downtown parking lot on Willow Street.

About the author:
Since 1994 Glen Cowley has parlayed his interest in sports, travel and history into both books and articles. The author of two books on hockey and over sixty published articles (including sports, travel, features and biographies) he continues to explore perspectives in time and place wherever travels and circumstances take him. From the varied landscapes of British Columbia to Eastern Canada and the USA, the British Isles, Germany, Switzerland, the Netherlands, Greece and France he has found ample fodder for features. His present endeavours see him working on a book on unique pubs on Vancouver Island; a sober experience. windandice@shaw.ca

All photos are by Glen Cowley:
Cabin at Overbury Farms
Sea carved sandstone
Overbury Farms manor house
1897 Nothing Happened Here plaque
Float plane and Telegraph Harbour
Marina pub at Telegraph Harbour
Sea carved sandstone

Manitoba, Canada

by Donna Janke

St. Boniface, Winnipeg’s French Quarter, sits on the east side of the Red River, across the Provencher Bridge and the neighbouring, impressive pedestrian bridge, Esplanade Riel. St. Boniface was founded in 1818 with the establishment of a Catholic mission. It became part of Winnipeg, Manitoba in 1972 when Winnipeg and its surrounding suburbs merged into one city. Home to one of the largest French-Canadian communities outside the province of Québec, its rich history includes voyageurs, fur traders, European settlers, Catholic missionaries, rebellion, and the birth of the province of Manitoba.

The best place to start exploring St. Boniface’s heritage is at the former St. Boniface City Hall, which now houses a tourism office. It is also the starting point of a guided walking tour of old St. Boniface. The red brick building dating back to 1906 is the first item on the tour. Other points of interest include an outdoor sculpture garden beside the tourism office, a Romanesque-revival style brick firehouse built in the early 1900s, a cultural center, a train station built in 1913 that now houses a restaurant, a French-speaking university, and St. Boniface Cathedral. The tour ends on the grounds of Saint-Boniface Museum.

Université de Saint-Boniface provides French-speaking college education to francophone students from around the world. Its long history began in 1818 when Father Provencher established a school to teach Latin to French-speaking boys. The school grew, moved into larger buildings, and expanded its curriculum. In 1922 the institution was destroyed by fire. Arthur Béliveau, Archbishop of St. Boniface, donated a new seminary at what is the current location of the university. Today the institution offers a variety of undergraduate and graduate university degree programs and continuing education classes.

Louis Riel, a controversial figure in Canadian history, was one of Université de Saint-Boniface’s most famed alumni. He is considered a hero by some and a traitor by others. Born in 1844 in St. Boniface, he became a leader of the Métis people, a recognized Canadian aboriginal people of mixed European and First Nations heritage. In the late 1860s unrest grew among the Métis in the Red River area, fearing their livelihood and way of life was threatened by the planned transfer of land from the Hudson’s Bay Company to Canada. In 1869, Riel’s forces took control of Fort Garry, the headquarters of the Hudson’s Bay Company. From 1869 to 1870, he led a provisional government, a government which would eventually negotiate terms leading to Manitoba becoming a Canadian province and ensuring some protection of French language rights. He is frequently called the “Father of Manitoba”.

During Riel’s provisional government, his forces arrested men who had plotted to recapture the fort. Thomas Scott, one of the men arrested, was court-martialed and executed by firing squad. The outrage over this incident led the Canadian government to send in forces and regain control of the region. With a bounty on his head, Riel fled to the United States. He returned to Canada, to what is now the province of Saskatchewan, in 1885 to help Métis obtain legal rights. His peaceful petitions produced little result and the Métis rebellion turned violent. Canadian government troops squashed the rebellion. Riel was put on trial for treason. A jury found him guilty but recommended his life be spared. The judge ignored the jury’s recommendation and sentenced Riel to death. He was executed and buried in the cemetery at St. Boniface cathedral. A granite tombstone now identifies his grave, initially marked by a wooden cross.

St. Boniface Cathedral is a major Winnipeg architectural landmark. A fire in 1968 destroyed the 1894 church, leaving its historic stone walls. Behind the facade of the ruined church sits a newer, modern church, a cathedral within a cathedral. Stained glass windows designed by architect Etienne J. Gaboury decorate the new church. Old and new coexist in a quiet and peaceful setting.

Saint-Boniface Museum, Winnipeg’s oldest building, was originally a Grey Nuns Convent. Built in 1846, it is a good example of Red River frame construction. The grooved post construction technique was common in the area in the 19th century. Squared oak logs were laid on a foundation of fieldstone. Upright timbers with grooves cut into their sides were added. More squared logs with tenons at each end to fit into the grooves were stacked horizontally to form the walls.

Inside the museum, exhibits reveal the lives and culture of Manitoba’s Francophone and Métis communities. The large collection of artifacts in the Louis Riel exhibit include his trunk, a lock of his hair, his shaving kit, his cribbage board, his moccasins, and the coffin he was originally laid in. Louis Riel’s sash, or ceinture fléchée, is also on display. The ceinture fléchée is a traditional piece of French-Canadian clothing, widely worn in the 18th and 19th centuries, wrapped twice and tied around the waist. Other exhibits include depictions of fur trading life, clothing from the 1800s, artwork, and a chapel. My favourite part was the rooms depicting life in days past, complete with weathered wood beams, hooked rugs on wood plank floors, white metal-framed bed, and cast iron stove.

La Maison Gabrielle-Roy, to the east of old St. Boniface, provides glimpses into the life of a middle class Francophone family in the early 1900s and insight into renowned author Gabrielle Roy. Gabrielle Roy was the recipient of many prestigious literary awards and her books, written in French, were translated into many languages. Roy’s father, a colonization officer, had the house built in 1905. Gabrielle Roy was born in 1909, the youngest of 11 children. The house now functions as a museum and rooms have been restored to look as they would have during Gabrielle’s childhood. The floors are original and the wall colours authentic to what would have adorned the Roy household. The furnishings are not the original Roy family furnishings, but are true to the period. The piano in the parlor is a Bell piano, the same kind that had a prominent place in the Roy family’s life.

To the north of the old City Hall, Fort Gibraltar provides a look back in time to the period of the voyageurs and the fur trade. Voyageur is a French word translated literally as “traveler”. Voyageurs transported furs by canoe.

Fort Gibraltar is a replica of the original fur trading post built in 1809. The fort was abandoned in 1835 and destroyed by flood in 1852. The replica was built in 1978 to reflect key elements of life in the Red River valley from 1815 – 1821. Inside its wooden walls, costumed interpreters relive daily life of the original inhabitants. They are behind the counter in the general store, forging metal at the blacksmith’s shop, sewing, tending to an outdoor fire, and working in the workshop. Fur pelts hang in the warehouse. A fur press sits along one wall. It was used to press the fur into 90 pound bales for transport in canoe. A voyageur would typically transport two bales at a time.

While any of these historic sites is worth a visit on its own, the experience of visiting all of them provides a richer picture of the area’s heritage and brings the history of Winnipeg’s French Quarter to life.

The artworks in the museum are equally fascinating, showing the artistic style and creativity of Canada in the 19th century. The unique handicrafts and exquisite paintings reflect Canada’s profound cultural heritage.

Custom Luggage Tags Canada can extract the essence of these artworks and present them on luggage tags in a novel way. Perhaps it is a close-up of a painting or a simple outline of a handicraft, which can make the luggage tag a unique souvenir.

Every time you travel with your luggage, seeing this luggage tag is like being in a museum again, feeling the influence of art, which also makes your travel memory more profound.

If You Go:

♦ The guided walking tours run daily through summer months at 10:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m., take 75 to 90 minutes and cost $8.
♦ Adult admission to Saint-Boniface Museum is $6.
♦ Adult admission to La Maison Gabrielle-Roy is $5. Hours vary by season. Check their website: www.maisongabrielleroy.mb.ca.
♦ Fort Gibraltar is open to the public during summer months. Adult admission is $8.
♦ Visit the St. Boniface tourism site: www.tourismeriel.com

About the author:
Donna Janke writes both fiction and travel pieces. Born and bred on the Canadian prairies, she loves to explore her home province of Manitoba as much as she loves discovering other parts of the globe. She has a travel and writing blog at www.destinationsdetoursdreams.blogspot.ca

All photos are by Donna Janke:
Riel Esplanade pedestrian bridge
Université de Saint-Boniface
Louis Riel tombstone
St. Boniface Cathedral
Saint-Boniface Museum
Display of Louis Riel’s sash and cribbage board at Saint-Boniface Museum
La Maison Gabrielle-Roy
Fort Gibraltar

by W. Ruth Kozak

If you visit my city, Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada, you are sure to spend some time in one of Vancouver’s unique tourist attractions, Stanley Park. The park covers 404.9 hectares (1,000 acres) of rainforest and is the largest city park in North America. It was named for Lord Stanley, 16th Earl of Derby who became Governor General of Canada. Stanley Park was first opened as a public recreation area in 1887. The park, which is located at the western entrance to Vancouver’s harbour, was originally settled by the Coast Salish people. It was their hunting and gathering ground and became the favorite haunt of an Indian princess/poet, Pauline Johnson, the first Native Indian to be published in Canada. Her book “The White Wampum” gained her high literary standing.

Born March 10, 1861 on her father’s estate “Chiefswood” on the Six Nations Indian Reserve near Brantford, Ontario, Pauline was the youngest child of G.H.M. Johnson, head Chief of the Six Nations and his English wife Emily S. Howells. Her Indian name was Tekahionwake. She was considered a “princess” because her father was the scion of 50 noble families which composed the historical confederation founded by Hiawatha, a noble chief made famous in a poem by Alfred, Lord Tennyson. It was known as the Brotherhood of the Five Nations.

Pauline’s education was meagre — a nursery governess for two years, attendance at a Native Canadian day school, and two finishing years at the Brantford Central School — but she was well educated in the School of Nature. With her voracious reading, retentive memory, and keen mind, Pauline acquired a wide knowledge of literature, especially poetry. Before she was twelve, she had read all the classics. Her fiest poems were published in New York and Toronto. By the time she was in her 20’s she became known for her public appearances and poetry readings, traveling from the Atlantic to the Pacific coasts of Canada. She also made several trips to England to perform and was presented to the Queen. She performed in dance halls across the country often clad in a buckskin outfit and a bear claw necklace to represent her Mohawk heritage and then later in the performance she’d change into a silk evening gown honoring her British ancestry.

Much of Johnson’s poetry focused on her cultural back-ground. In A Cry From an Indian Wife she wrote:

Go forth, nor bend to greed of white man’s hands.
By right, by birth, we Indians own these lands,
Though starved, crushed, plundered,
Lies our nation low;
Perhaps the white man’s God has willed it so.

Pauline Johnson made many trips to the west coast, eventually settling in Vancouver. She spent much of her time in Stanley Park. She was an ardent canoeist and a great lover of nature and wrote many poems about the park.

As I enter the Park, I cross under the causeway and take the path to Lost Lagoon. Originally part of Coal Harbour, it was a tidal basin where Indians dug clams. In the early days, visitors to the park had to pick their way over a large log anchored in the mud flats until eventually wooden bridge was built. The causeway, constructed of earth, ashes and street-sweepings, was built in 1888. Pauline Johnson loved to paddle her canoe here. She named this tidal pool “Lost Lagoon” because of the way it emptied when the tide ebbed, and she wrote:

O! lure of the lost Lagoon/ I dream tonight my paddle blurs/ The purple shade when the seaweed stirs/ I hear the call of the singing firs/ In the hush of the golden moon.

The native name for Lost Lagoon is “Chul-Wah-Ulch” which means “a bog which is dry when the tide is out” Once there were Indian dwellings on the north side of the lagoon. Now, trumpeter swans, mute swans, duck families and grey herons make their home on the lagoon.

As I walk along the lagoon, I can feel Pauline’s presence and recall her poem about the Lagoon:

It is dusk on the Lost Lagoon,
And we two dreaming the dusk away,
Beneath the drift of a twilight grey-
Beneath the drowse of an ending day
And the curve of a golden moon.

I follow the path to the end of the Lagoon to the seawall at Second Beach. As I walk along the seawall I come to another place that Pauline Johnson liked to visit in the park —Siwash Rock “where the twining roadway branches in two.” This monument of nature stands as a reminder to the Squamish people of one man who lived a good life. The tall pinnacle of rock that rises just off the shore represents Skalsh, a warrior who was turned into stone by Q’Uas the Transformer as a reward for his unselfishness. It is one of the best known legends about a young Indian who was about to become a father and decided to swim in the waters of English Bay to purify himself so his new-born son could start life free of his father’s sins. The gods made Sklash immortal by turning him into a pinnacle of rock. Two smaller rocks representing his wife and son stand in the woods overlooking Siwash Rock.

Pauline Johnson died in Vancouver at the age of 53, on March 7, 1913. The hardships of travel in those days had taken a toll on her health and in the latter years of her life this remarkable woman, known to her friends as ‘a beloved vagabond’ became an invalid. The last thing she wrote was her will, nine days before her death at 53, in which she requested no public mourning, no tombstone or monument. But a huge funeral was held with hundreds of people in the streets to honor her. Her will and ashes were lost for 43 years before they were found in the vault of a Vancouver law firm. Her ashes and two of her books Legends of Vancouver and Flint and Feather were eventually buried near Siwash Rock. In 1922 the Women’s Canadian Club of Vancouver erected a monument in her honour.

I visit the cairn in a cedar grove at Prospect Point near the Stanley Park Tearoom. It’s a simple relief carved out of a large piece of natural rock, where water flows from the rocks into a small hollow pool at its base. This day, someone has left a bouquet of flowers in her memory. I pause, engulfed in the silence of the tall cedars that surround the shrine, and pay homage to this remarkable woman whose beautiful poetry has given such a special meaning to Stanley Park.

If You Go:

Explore Chiefswood

Vancouver Archives

If you visit Vancouver BC be sure to go to Stanley Park and you’ll see Lost Lagoon. Or take the road around the Park to 3rd Beach and up the steps by the roadside you’ll find the memorial stone to Pauline.

More Information:

PAULINE JOHNSON’S BIO
E. Pauline Johnson at Digital Library

BOOKS

Paddling Her Own Canoe: The Times and Texts of E. Pauline Johnson (Tekahionwake) (Studies in Gender and History)

Buckskin and Broadcloth: A Celebration of E. Pauline Johnson — Tekahionwake, 1861-1913

Flint & Feather: The Life and Times of E. Pauline Johnson, Tekahionwake

POETRY COLLECTIONS

About the author:
W. Ruth Kozak is a historical fiction writer, travel journalist, poet and playwright who lives in Vancouver B.C. Canada. She is the former editor and publisher of TRAVEL THRU HISTORY. When she was young, Ruth lived in Brantford, Ontario and became interested in First Nations history and the story of Pauline Johnson. One of her favorite places in Vancouver is Stanley Park. www.ruthkozak.com and www.inalexandersfootsteps.com

Photo credits:
Ceremony at Pauline Johnson’s grave by Thomson, Stuart / Public domain
Tekahionwake ca 1895 by  Cochran / Public domain
Cover of 1895 edition of White Wampum by Pauline Johnson – Public domain
Siwash Rock, Vancouver by Andrew Raun under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 Generic license.