By W. Ruth Kozak

I had always dreamed of visiting Alexandria, the fabled city on the Nile delta established by Alexander the Great back in 332 BC. While I was researching my novel SHADOW OF THE LION, I delved into the history of this remarkable city. When I was invited to Egypt last March on a travel writer’s press trip, I told the organizers about my novel and the research I had done about the founding of the ancient city. Because of this I was given a special two-day tour of Alexandria, with an escort of three handsome Egyptian men, one of the highlights of all my travel experiences.

Alexandria is a setting in the story. Ptolemy, Alexander’s illegitimate half-brother returned to Egypt after Alexander’s death to oversee the building according to Alexander’s wishes. Ptolemy Soter became the first of the Ptolemaic dynasties of Egypt that lasted up until the era of Cleopatra.

It is said that Alexander had a dream in which he recalled the lines from Homer’s Iliad of an island, Pharos, by the surging sea.’ Alexander had come to Egypt to drive out the Persians and to him, this dream was an omen. He wanted to build a new city by the sea, and chose this location near a small village called Rhakotis. He ordered his architect and city planner Dinocrates to design and build it but Alexander died before its completion. After Alexander’s death, Ptolemy hijacked the funeral carriage when it was being transported from Babylon to Macedon and brought the body to Egypt where, it is said, Alexander had wanted to be buried. It was interred first in Memphis, then when the temple for Alexander’s friend Hephaestion was completed, Ptolemy had Alexander’s body laid there where it remained at least until the arrival of the Romans, because it was visited by Julius Caesar and Cleopatra.

Under Ptolemy, Alexandria became a center of Hellenism. It was the home of many Greeks and also home of the largest Jewish community in the world. It took over the trade and commerce of Tyre between Europe and the Arabian and Indian East and soon expanded until it was the largest city in the world, second only to Rome. Over the years, Alexandria was visited by Julius Caesar, Mark Antony, Nelson, Napoleon, and was home of others such as Archimedes, Euclid, Mohammed Ali Pasha and the Greek poet Cavafy.

 The ancient Greek city had three regions, The Brucheum, Royal or Greek quarter which formed the most magnificent part of the city. The Jewish quarter formed the northeast and Rhakotis, occupied mainly by Egyptians. The city consisted of the island of Pharos which was joined to the mainland by a mole nearly a mile long. There stood the famous Great Lighthouse, one of the Seven Wonders of the World, 138 meters high, a project begun by the first Ptolemy and completed by his son. The lighthouse was destroyed by an earthquake in the 14^th century and was replaced by an Arab fortress using some of the original bricks.

I was curious to learn how much of Alexander still exists in Alexandria, the city named for him. As the van approached the outskirts the first thing I saw was a monument of Alexander riding his horse. At our first stop we were greeted by a young tour guide, Sarah, who showed us around an extensive excavation known as Kom al-Dikka, which has revealed many Roman era ruins including a theatre. We didn’t have time to visit the catacombs which are located near Alexander’s best-known monument, ‘Pompey’s Pillar. The catacombs, known as Kom al-Soqqafa, are a multì-level labyrinth reached by a spiral staircase where there are dozens of chambers with sculpted pillars and statues, burial niches and sarcophagi.

Our next stop on the tour was the Qaitbay Citadel, built on the site of the ancient lighthouse, and established in 1477 AD by the Sultan Qaitbay. It was one of the most important defensive strongholds on the Mediterranean coast.

Unlike Cairo which is densely packed between the Nile River and the vast expanse of Sahara desert, Alexandria sprawls out along the seacoast, a sparkling bright city surrounded by the verdant Nile Delta, the ancient’s ‘Land of Goshen’. It is the second largest city in Egypt. The city is divided into six neighbourhoods, each with a large population. Alexandria is an important industrial area and Egypt’s largest seaport with two harbors, one facing east, the other west. There is evidence of the ancient harbour on the edge of the island of Pharos, but little else remains except what the underwater archaeologists have discovered under the sea. Some of these finds can be seen in the Alexandria Museum and on display outside of the new Alexandria Library.

The Alexandria Museum contains a number of exhibits dating back to the Ptolemaic dynasty as well as Roman. What I found most interesting were some of the relics that have been brought up by the maritime archaeologists in the harbor which reveals details of the city both before Alexander’s time and during the Ptolemaic dynasty. Where is Alexander’s tomb? Most likely at the bottom of the sea. Evidently they have discovered parts of Cleopatra’s palace and in the front of the new library is a tall weather-worn statue of one of the Ptolemys brought up from the seabed.

After my tour of the Roman ruins and museum, I was taken to my hotel by the seaside, surrounded a beautiful 350 acre park of palm trees and flowering bushes, the Montazah Palace Gardens. The elegant Helnan Palestine hotel is on the grounds next to what was King Farouk’s summer palace. Farouk became king at the age of 16 and lost his throne at the age of 32 in 1952. The hotel was built in 1964 to accommodate the Arab Kings and Heads of States participating in the Second Arab Summit in Alexandria. Members of Royal families and Presidents have stayed there. This made my visit even more special to know I was on royal territory.

The next day was the highlight of my visit when I was taken to the New Alexandria Library, the Bibliotheca Alexandrina, which opened Oct. 16, 2002. It’s an immense cylindrical shaped modern structure separated from the University of Alexandria by a wide concourse where I posed under a bust of my hero, Alexander. The library is spectacular in its design with constant light filtering through the specially curved domes. It houses over 8 million books.

The first Library of Alexandria was created by Ptolemy I Soter in the 3^rd century BC. Most of the books were papyrus scrolls on great value. It was dedicated to the Muses and functioned as a major center of scholarship. Many of the most famous thinkers of the ancient world studied here. It was in Alexandria where Euclid devised geometry and Herophilus discovered that the brain, was the seat of thought, not the heart. A wealth of works from the classical world were housed in the old library, including those of Aristotle and Plato, original manuscripts of Sophocles, Aeschylus and Euripides, Egyptian treatises on astronomy and medicine; Buddhist texts, original Hebrew scriptures and many of the works of the lyric poet Sappho.

In 48 BC when Julius Caesar laid siege to the city, a fire was set and the library was partially destroyed. Later there were other attacks until finally the library was in ruins and thousands of ancient works were destroyed. I wondered what Ptolemy would think now, if he saw this amazing work of art which has replaced the library he first created.

The new library features a museum dedicated to science and history. There is also a large planetarium at the entrance. There are all the modern amenities such as Internet Archives, several specialized libraries, academic research centres and various permanent exhibits. It is also the home of several institutions including The Arabic Society for Ethics in Science and Technology, the HCM Medical Research, the Anna Lindh Foundation for Dialogue Between Cultures and many others.

There is an international spirit in the Bibliotheca just as there was back in Ptolemy’s time. Italians and Egyptians work together preserving rare manuscripts; Greeks help with antiquities; French are in charge of the science museum and Americans are the computer experts.

The famous burning of the ancient Library of Alexandria became the symbol of the irretrievable loss of knowledge, but the new Bibliotheca Alexandria has revived that legacy and the staff works together to maintain this great Temple of Learning.

Not only was this two-day visit to Alexandria, one of the most memorable times of my visit to Egypt, but I enjoyed the company of my Egyptian travel escorts and especially the lovely young woman who was my tour guide, Sarah Ibrahim. I felt such warmth from her that we immediately bonded. She had read all about me on the internet and knew an amazing number of stories about me from my blogs. So I would certainly love to return there someday to see my new friend and visit more of this wonderful country that is so rich with history and its warm, friendly people.

IF YOU GO:

Discover Alexandria

The library of Alexandria

 About the author:
Ruth had always dreamed of visiting Egypt, and in 2014 she was offered a press trip to that amazing country by the Canadian Egyptian Tourism. The tour included all the major sites such as Karnak, Giza and the Red Sea area and when the tour operator learned of Ruth’s novel SHADOW OF THE LION, part of which takes place in ancient Alexandria, she was offered a special trip to that amazing city. It was probably one of the most memorable trips she has ever made!

Ruth’s novel, the story of the fall of Alexander the Great’s dynasty, is available on Amazon.com in two volumes: Shadow of the Lion: Blood on the Moon and SHADOW OF THE LION: THE FIELDS OF HADES. It is also available in full on Kindle ebook SHADOW OF THE LION. Check out Ruth’s travel blog.

Photo credits:
Alexandria at Sunset by David Evers under the Creative Commons Attribution 2.0 Generic license
Ruth Kozak at statue of Alexander by W. Ruth Kozak
Bibliotheca Alexandrina outer view by Mahmoud Saaid under Creative Commons Attribution 2.5 License

Present day Alexandria is seemingly disconnected from its ancient past. Visitors are drawn here by images of Alexander the Great, and the tempestuous romance between Cleopatra and her lovers Julius Caesar and Marc Anthony. Unfortunately, nothing related to these people remains. Alexander’s tomb has been lost to history and Cleopatra’s palace is now submerged under water somewhere offshore. Even the Pharos, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, and the Great Library of Alexandria were destroyed.

What should a traveler explore when visiting this fascinating city? While a number of the historic sites that you can visit are above ground, you should still dig deeper. Beneath your feet, you find fleeting glimpses of a Ptolemaic-Roman city. After you have seen the light, there are also Byzantine and Mamluk-era ruins to explore above ground. Where should you begin your tour? Why not get into the spirit of adventure at the catacombs.

The Catacombs at Kom al-Shoqafa

The Catacombs at Kom al-Shoqafa, in use from the 2nd to the 4th centuries CE, were discovered in 1900 after a donkey accidentally fell through an access shaft. Fortunately, your entry will be a great deal safer. Descend the spiral staircase down to the first level in a clockwise fashion as it runs around the periphery of a 6-meter wide circular shaft. This shaft may have been used to lower mummies into the catacombs using a rope and pulley.

The rotunda is a circular chamber at the bottom of the stairwell which served as the junction for all three levels of the necropolis. At its center, a 10-meter deep shaft descends to the third level, now closed to the public due to flooding. Just look for a dome set upon 6 pillars over the shaft.

A short distance away is the triclinium or banquet room, approximately 9 meters wide and 8.5 meters long. The dining area is defined by four square sandstone pillars. Carved platforms extend between the columns on three of the four sides. Cushions were placed on top of these platforms and the family reclined around a central table in the company of their deceased relatives.

The name Kom al-Shoqafa translates to “Mound of Shards” because of the discarded pottery fragments found over this site. The family would discard all food containers after having visited this house of the dead.

Returning to the rotunda, descend the stone staircase down to the second level and the Greco-Egyptian temple-like tomb. Carved from the surrounding sandstone, the porch-like pronaos is absolutely stunning with its two columns topped with papyrus, lotus and acanthus leaves. The façade is adorned with a winged solar disc flanked by two falcons. On each side wall, behind the columns, you find a statue set within a recessed area. Presumably these were the owners of the tomb; the husband is on the right and the wife is on the left.

Pass through the doorway flanked by two serpents into the naos or burial chamber. The finely decorated burial chamber houses three sarcophagi recessed into the walls. The lids were carved so that they could not be removed. Mummies were likely inserted from behind by means of a passageway running along the exterior of the tomb.

Exit the naos and walk around to the passageway. Here you find loculi on both sides to accommodate more than 300 mummies. I examined the passageway for any possible openings into the naos sarcophagi through which mummies might have been passed, but I found nothing. When you are finished, return to the rotunda and ascend the spiral staircase back into the light of day. Your next stop is Pompey’s Pillar.

 Pompey’s Pillar

Set on top of the Acropolis of Alexandria, Pompey’s Pillar is a 285-tonne column of red granite standing just over 20 meters high. Pompey’s Pillar is actually a misnomer. During the Middle Ages, Crusaders mistakenly believed that the remains of the Roman General Pompey, who was murdered in 48 BCE, had been placed in a container at the top of the column. According to an inscription at the base, this was a Roman triumphal column dedicated to Emperor Diocletian in 297 CE. Diocletian was commemorated for having saved the city from a famine. Nearby is an honor guard consisting of two granite sphinxes.

Our guide, Sherif, indicated that Pompey’s Pillar is all that remains of a colonnade that consisted of 400 columns. This colonnade was part of a Serapeum, an ancient Greek temple dedicated to the god Serapis; Serapis was represented by a sacred bull. The Serapeum, constructed in 280 BCE, remained in use until 391 CE when the early Christians thought that this cult was a lot of bull and leveled the structure. Only two underground passages remain.

The first passageway is the Sanctuary of Serapis. Passing by an altar just outside the entrance, I entered a warm, humid tunnel roughly carved from the soft sandstone. Slowly, slowly, inch by inch, I crept along the dimly lit corridor, noting the irregularly-sized niches carved into the walls. These recesses may have accommodated statues at one time. Finally, I did not see the light at the end of the tunnel, I came face-to-face with a statue of Serapis, a large black basalt bull. This statue is a copy of the original, now housed in the Greco-Roman museum of Alexandria.

After finding your way out of the Sanctuary, enter the nearby underground gallery known as the Daughter Library. This 75-meter long tunnel with rough carved recesses in the walls was believed to house as many as 7,000 papyrus scrolls as overflow from the Great Library of Alexandria. Find your way down the finished white marble stairway and savor your connection with the Great Library of Alexandria. When you are ready, exit the Daughter Library and move on to the first above-ground site at Kom El-Dekka.

Kom El-Dekka

Kom El-Dekka (“Mound of Rubble”) is the site of a Greco-Roman residential community and various amenities. During the 1st and 2nd centuries CE, opulent homes like the Villa of the Birds occupied the area. This home is named for the seven colorful avian floor mosaics that include pigeons, peacocks, quails, parrots and flowers. There is even a panther if you look carefully. This villa has not been completely excavated but you will find traces of a triclinium. Look for the black and white mosaic floor.

What is the value of being middle or upper class without being surrounded by culture and higher education? Set inside a grassy hill, a short distance away from the villa, is the Odeion. Dating to the 2nd century CE, this theatre is believed to have been originally used for concerts rather than plays. Looking down from the side I was struck by the gleaming marble reflecting the mid-day sun.

The Odeion was badly damaged due to an earthquake in 535 CE and then reconstructed during the Byzantine period when it was transformed into a large lecture hall for a university. Perhaps this is why the structure, 33.5 meters in diameter, is shaped like a horseshoe. Looking around along the top edge of the theatre, you find 5 pillars. These are believed to have supported a roof at one time. Thirteen semi-circular tiers of seats accommodated an audience of around 600 people. The front row is carved from red granite; the others are white-gray marble.

This university also had at least 22 smaller classrooms or lecture halls. Each was approximately 5.5 X 11 square meters, with a stepped podium and at least 3 tiers of stone seats. During this period, Alexandria was a center for higher learning, so having a university would make sense. After graduating from this university, it was time to study Mamluk architecture at Fort Qaitbey.

 Fort Qaitbey

Fort Qaitbey [Pictured at top – Ed] (pronounced “kite bay”), a Mamluk fortress, was constructed in 1477 CE on the ruins of the Pharos of Alexandria. The Pharos was reduced to rubble due to earthquakes in the 11th century CE and in 1383 CE. Sultan Qaitbey incorporated some of its honey-brown limestone into the fort that bears his name.

The site, roughly 150 X 130 square meters, was protected by an inner and outer wall; the latter has been badly damaged by the sea over time. Four crenelated defensive towers along the outer wall, two of which straddle the main entrance, protect the fort from invaders. If you smile when purchasing your ticket, you might just be able to enter unopposed.

Once inside, you are standing opposite the keep at the far end of the courtyard. This crenelated rectangular keep is three stories high with cylindrical towers at each corner.

Pass through the very solid wooden door and quickly look up at the octagonal opening in the ceiling known as an “oil fall”. From here attackers were provided with a warm welcome of boiling oil. If you make it safely past this point, you are inside the mosque.

This impressive mosque features richly decorated marble mosaic floors and walls and a decorative semi-circular mihrab. A mihrab normally serves to orient the congregation toward Mecca during prayer, but not in this case. The architect was more concerned with the military functionality of the fort rather than proper worship.

This mosque has four iwans. An iwan is a rectangular gallery with walls on three sides; the fourth side is open. These were used for religious teaching.

Climb the stairs to the second floor which consists of rough-cut limestone corridors and many small rooms which possibly served as barracks. The third floor features the Sultan’s iwan. This open-air rectangular room, approximately 4 X 6 square meters, was where the Sultan could meet with visitors. Nearby are two brick ovens for baking bread. While on this floor, take the opportunity to climb one of the defensive towers to enjoy a panoramic view of the area. After completing your guard duty, exit the keep.

A short walk away, I was able to climb the crenelated outer wall, some sections of which are as much as 8 meters high and 2 meters thick. At the top, I found two cannon mounts upon which a cannon could be swiveled to any angle. With this, I focused on the Bibliotheca Alexandrina in the distance.

Bibliotheca Alexandrina

The Bibliotheca Alexandrina is a modern reconstruction the Great Library of Alexandria. Built between 1995 and 2002, this storehouse of knowledge holds over 2 million books and employs over 2000 librarians.

The exterior of the library struck me as being a giant “eye” with the curved exterior walls (eyelids) constructed of Aswan granite. The rough-hewn blocks are decorated with ancient languages. The “ocular surface” or roof consists of many glass panels all sloped towards the Mediterranean Sea.

As you walk through the courtyard running along the western periphery of the library, you are greeted by a bust of Alexander the Great. Unfortunately, I did not have time to visit the interior of the library, but I had the feeling that Alexander was directing me to go south along the Nile and learn more about Egypt. And who would dare to refuse a command like that?

 If You Go:

A private tour to Alexandria from Cairo can be part of your Egyptian vacation. I booked my complete vacation package through Egypt’s Best Day Tours.

If you travel to Alexandria independently you will require a taxi to reach the sites.

The Catcombs at Kom al-Shoqafa are located on Tawfikeya Street. Admission is 80 Egyptian Pounds.

Pompey’s Pillar is located on Amoud el Sawary Street. Admission is 80 Egyptian Pounds.

Kom El-Dekka is located on Ismail Mehanna Street. Admission is 80 Egyptian Pounds.

Fort Qaitbey is located on the end of the breakwater at the east side of the harbor. Admission is 60 Egyptian Pounds.

The Bibliotheca Alexandrina is located at 63 Shar’a Soter.

Full-Day Tour of Historical Alexandria from Cairo Egypt

About the author:

Troy Herrick, a freelance travel writer, has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. His articles have appeared in Live Life Travel, International Living, Offbeat Travel and Travels Thru History Magazines.

Photo credits:

Diane Gagnon, a freelance photographer, has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. Her photographs have accompanied Troy Herrick’s articles in Live Life Travel, Offbeat Travel and Travels Thru History Magazines.

Egypt Shore Excursion Alexandria Port Shore Excursion Full Day

by W. Ruth Kozak

Along with a small group of other travelers I board a cruise ship at Aswan, Egypt to sail down the Nile on an adventure that will take me to visit various archaeological sites. For me this journey is like a dream come true. An avid arm-chair archeologist and historical fiction writer, I have always wanted to visit Egypt. Now here I am on the deck of a cruise ship, sailing down the mighty Nile River.

The Nile River is the world’s longest river, flowing through eleven countries approximate 4,665 miles out of the heart of Africa, northward to the Mediterranean Sea. There are two sources: The White Nile in equatorial Africa rises from the Great Lake region of central Africa is the headwater. The Blue Nile begins in Ethiopia and flows into Sudan. The two rivers meet at Khartoum. The north section flows mostly through desert from Sudan to Egypt ending at a large delta that empties into the Mediterranean Sea. The cataracts are a progression of white rapids form the southern border of Egypt at Sudan. The First Cataract is at Aswan.

Cruising Down the Nile

Past Aswan, the great Nile Valley begins. Limestone cliffs run parallel along the shore for more than 400 miles, reach out toward the desert. As my travel companions and I lounge on the upper deck in the warm March sunshine, I watch the shoreline slip by. It is remarkable how quiet it is, as if the ship is sliding with the current, the pastoral shores passing by as if in a silent movie. In the reedy marshes egrets, ducks and geese nest. The Nile was known to nurture the sacred lotus, reeds and papyrus plants that were later used as writing paper. The ancient Egyptians called the river the “Father of Life” or “Mother of all men”. They called it Hap-Ur or Great Hap after the god Hapi, a divine spirit that blessed the land with rich silt deposits. The Nile is Egypt’s life-blood.

From the deck, I watch a parade of turbaned Nubian farmers dressed in traditional long cotton gelabbas as they lead donkeys laden with cut sugar-cane and reeds along the palm-shaded paths beside the shore. Young farm boys on ponies trot by the river bank and herds of goats and cattle graze in the marsh-land at the river’s edge.

Will I see a Crocodile?

As I sit on the deck watching the river flow by I am reminded of a children’s song that keeps running through my head …

Oh she
sailed away on a
pleasant summer’s day
on the back of a crocodile.

You see, said she, “He’s as
tame as he can be,
I’ll float him down the Nile.”

But the
croc’ winked his eye as she
waved to all good-bye,
wearing a sunny smile.

At the
end of the ride the
lady was inside, and the
smile on the crocodile!

I wonder if there are crocodiles lurking in the river. I peer into the dark green water hoping to spot one. The Nile crocodile is the second largest reptile in the world, after the salt-water crocodile. They grow to up to 5 meters (16 ft) in length and weigh up to 410 kg (900 lbs). The largest on record was 61 meters (20 ft) and weighed 900 Kg (2,000 lbs). Their powerful bite and sharp conical teeth grip so firmly it is almost impossible to loosen. They are aggressive predators and will lay in wait for days waiting for the suitable moment to attack. It isn’t easy to escape. Crocodiles have been known to gallop at speeds of about 50 kilmetres (30 miles) an hour!

The Nile crocodile is known to attack people as well as animals. Up to 200 people a year die from crocodile encounters. I wonder, as I watch the grazing herds and passing parade of Egyptians on the shore if there might be crocodiles lying in wait for a noon-day meal.

I ask Hanan, the Egyptologist who accompanies our group, if these vicious reptiles might be lurking in the shallows. “Since the building of the Aswan Dam in 1960, the crocodiles now reside on the south side of Lake Nasser,” she assures me. I also learn that between the 1940’s and ‘60s the crocodiles were hunted for their high quality leather and this has depleted them.

Even though Hanan said there were no crocodiles in that part of the river, I keep watching in the hopes I might spot one. It isn’t until we reach Kom Ombo that, to my surprise, I discover a temple room full of them!

The Kom Ombo Temples

Kom Ombo is a small city once situated at the crossroads between the caravan route from Nubia and the routes from the gold mines in the eastern Sahara. During the reign of Ptolemy VI (180-145 BC) it was a training depot for African war elephants. Today Kom Ombo is the home of many Nubians who were displaced after the Aswan Dam flooded their lands.

In ancient times, this part of the Nile River was known for the crocodiles that basked along the shore posing a threat to the locals. This is likely why one of the temples at Kom Ombo is dedicated to Sobek, the crocodile god.

The crocodile was an important symbol in ancient Egypt, both feared and revered. It was worshipped as a crocodile-headed god named Sobek. Several ancient tombs have been discovered with hieroglyphics showing a crocodile snatching a baby hippopotamus as it emerged from its mother during birth. Hippos were the only creature in the Nile who was more powerful than the crocodiles. Other tomb scenes show crocodiles mating. Sometimes they were kept in temple pools where they were fed, covered with jewelry and worshipped. When the crocodiles died, they were embalmed, mummified, placed in sarcophagi and buried in sacred tombs.

At Kom Ombo, the Egyptologist, Hanan, leads us to the archaeological site. Kom Ombo Temple is a double temple built during the Ptolemaic dynasty. It has courts, halls, sanctuaries and rooms dedicated to two sets of gods. On the right side is a temple to Sobek-Re, the crocodile god combined with the sun god Re. Sobek is associated with Set, the murderer of Osiris and enemy of Horus. In the myth, Set changed himself into a crocodile to escape Osiris wrath. The ancient Egyptians believed if they honored the crocodile as a god they would be safe from attacks by the ferocious creatures.

Sobek was an aggressive deity like the violent Nile crocodile. Yet, in spite of this, Sobek became known for his benevolence after associating with Isis as a healer of Osiris following his violent murder by Set. The name Sobek has been translated to mean “he who unites the dismembered limbs of Osiris.” He was considered a protective deity by the Egyptians. His fierceness warded off evil while defending the innocent. He was associated with pharaonic power, military prowess and fertility and in particular invoked protection against the dangers of the Nile River. For this reason the crocodile was deified and worshipped.

We enter through the remains of a monumental gate. Much of the temple has been washed away by Nile floods so only low walls and stumps of pillars in the forecourt remain. In the beautiful Outer Hypsostyle Hall, fifteen sturdy columns stand with decorated cornices and carved winged sun disk.

The left side of the temple is dedicated to the falcon god Haroeris “The Good Doctor” along with his consort Ta-Sent-Nefer, “The Good Sister. Hanan ushers us through and interprets the stories of the hieroglyphics carved on the pillars and walls. On one wall is a relief of Sobek in his snake form. Another shows Ptolemy II making offerings to various gods. On the rear wall Hanan points out a hieroglyph representing a set of surgical instruments probably carved during the Roman period.

Mummified Crocodiles!

Finally, we enter a large room that, to my surprise, is full of crocodiles! Mummified crocodiles! It is evident from the large number displayed here that the crocodile was held in honor by the people of Kom Ombo. The museum contains crocodile eggs as well as mummified baby and adult crocodiles. Some of the mummies were found with babies in their mouths or on their backs. These ferocious beasts are known to care diligently for their young, often carrying them on their backs. By preserving them by mummification it emphasized the protective and nurturing aspects of Sobek as he protected the Egyptian people just as the crocodile protects its young.

I didn’t see any live crocodiles that day, but I learned so much about the ancient Egyptians and got a new understanding of why this fierce predatory animal gained such prominence and was held in honor by the people of Kom Ombo.

Private Day Tour Excursion To Edfu and Kom Ombo

If You Go:

♦ Kom Ombo Temple site  Kom Ombo is 45 miles north of Aswan. The temple site is 4 kms from the town.

♦ Nile Cruise: I boarded the Sonesta Star Goddess at Aswan for my cruise down the Nile. This is a five-star all-suite cruise ship and the cruise lasted for 3 days between Aswan and Luxor. It included daily guided excursions with an Egyptologist guide. See http://www.Sonesta.com/nilecruises

♦ Everything you need to know about Nile Crocodiles, They are the largest species of crocodiles in Africa. They grow to about 6 metres long and can weight over 700 kgs. They almost became extinct in the 20th century and are now a protected species. Nile crocodiles are carnivores. They eat fish but prey on animals and are known to attack humans.

5-Day Nile Cruise: Luxor, Aswan, Kom-Ombo, Edfu from Cairo

About the author:
Ruth Kozak was thrilled to be invited to Egypt by Egyptian Tourism to write stories about this amazing country. She really did look for crocodiles along the Nile and was disappointed not so see any live ones! Ruth is both a travel journalist and historical fiction author. She is the author of: SHADOW OF THE LION: THE FIELDS OF HADES. Her first novel SHADOW OF THE LION: BLOOD ON THE MOON (volume one of two, a story of the fall of Alexander the Great’s dynasty) was published this summer by www.mediaaria-cdm.com at exactly the same time the fabled tomb at Amphipolis was uncovered. It is available on www.amazon.com or can be ordered through book stores.

Photo credits:
Crocodile by Glen Carrie on Unsplash
Photos of the Kom Ombo Temple site by W. Ruth Kozak.

Visit to the Fascinating City on the Nile

by W. Ruth Kozak

The first thing I noticed as we drove in Cairo from the airport, were the miles and miles of densely built apartment blocks, many of them half-finished stretching out from the Nile as far as you could see. Laundry fluttered from some of the balcony but there were just as many that appeared empty. The Egyptologist with our group of Canadian travel writers explained that this was part of the reasons for the first revolution – the overbuilding on green space, a corruption.

Cairo is the capital of Egypt, and the largest city in the Middle East with a population of about 7 million people. Of course there are areas of the city that look run-down. There are other more affluent suburbs of the city. Cairo’s modern ‘downtown’ is on the east bank of the Nile. It was built under the influence of French architects and there are many beautiful mosques as well as Coptic sights to see there. On the west bank of the river are the great Giza pyramids and farther south, the archaeological sites of Memphis and Saqqara.

As a female solo traveler, I would not want to venture alone to Cairo, although I’d certainly not hesitate to return to this marvelous country in the company of a tour group. Did I feel any danger in Cairo? In spite of the two revolutions and the pending elections at the time I was there, and the spate of unfavorable media coverage about Egypt, travel warnings from embassies, that has diminished their tourism by 90%, I felt no sense of danger. In fact, there was good security in place everywhere. And what impressed me so much was the people. I have never met such gracious, generous, friendly people anywhere before. Young, old, men, women and children approached me and my travel companions on the street with smiles. “Welcome! Where are you from? Welcome to Egypt!” These are proud people, open and friendly, who walk with a noble stance, proud of their country and heritage and greet you with welcoming smiles.

The only real ‘danger’ in Cairo was the traffic. They drive like maniacs, weaving in and out with no regard for lanes or right of way, always with their hands on the horns blaring their way through the chaos. I learned not to look out the front of the van window after several heart-stopping moments. Our driver, Magdi, was an expert and managed to get us everywhere safely.

One of the main interest for me was the Egyptian Museum located right near Tahrir Square. The museum contains the world’s most extensive collection of pharanoiac antiquities. I saw the King Tut exhibit when it was in Seattle but those treasures were insignificant compared to what you will see on display here: magnificent golden chariots, precious jewelry, and countless other incredible treasures as well as coffins, mummies and other artifacts from prehistoric through the Roman periods The museum houses approximately 160,00 objects in total. I was told they plan to build a new museum so that more of the treasures can be displayed.

In Old Cairo we visited several churches including the oldest Greek Orthodox Church and the Ben Ezra Synagogue which dates from the 9th century and is the oldest Jewish place of worship in Egypt. We also visited the 4th century Hanging Church which is built on the bastions of the ancient Roman wall and ‘suspended’ above the level of the Nile. In one of the oldest Coptic churches in Egypt we entered the crypt-like area below where there is a small room that is supposed to have been where Mary and Joseph and the baby Jesus found shelter when they fled to Egypt. Old Cairo also had an excellent bazaar for buying souvenirs, some very expensive and others modestly priced including furniture and jewelry.

While we were in Cairo we visited several other important sites outside the city including Giza and the sphinx, Memphis and Saqqara.

Giza is located to the west of Central Cairo not far from the ancient cities of Memphis and Saqqara. The pyramids include the great pyramid built for the pharaoh Cheops in the 4th dynasty and the slightly smaller Pyramid of Chephren date from around 2500 BC. There are also the Pyramid of Mykerinos and some smaller pyramids built for the kings’ families, The Great Pyramid of Cheops immortalizes the son of Snerferu and Hetpheres. This pyramid is the largest of the three, comprised of 2.3 million stone blocks each weighing an average of 2.5 tons. How on earth did they move these stones to build a monument so high as this? This is definitely one of the ‘wonders’ of the world! In fact, the pyramids of Giza are the last remaining Seven Wonders of the World.

Great Sphinx has stood guard over the pyramids for more than 4500 years. It is carved from an outcrop of rock and remains the ultimate symbol of Ancient Egypt with its lion’s body and human head.

Most of the remnants of ancient Egypt lay scattered on the desert plateau south of Cairo. After visiting the amazing pyramids of Giza we went to see the amazing necropolis at Saqqara and the Step Pyramid of King Djoser. This is the largest necropolis in Egypt, extending for almost five miles. It’s a collection of pyramids, temples and tombs including the Mastaba tombs where the high officials of the Pharaohs were buried.

The Step Pyramid is the oldest pyramid found in Egypt, over 2,000 years. It is the oldest structure in the world build entirely of stone. It is 62 metres high and the base measures 109 by 125 metres. The burial chamber of the Pharaoh was located at the centre of the pyramid at the bottom of a large vertical shaft 28 metres deep. From here a labyrinth of rooms, corridors, chambers and passageways protected the tombs.

Farther south, is the ancient royal capital of the pharaohs, Memphis. According to legend it was founded by pharaoh Menes around 3000 BC and was the capital of Egypt during the Old Kingdom, remaining an important city throughout history. During the 6th dynasty it was a centre for the worship of Ptah, the god of creation and artworks. There is an alabaster Sphinx guarding the Temple of Ptah that is a memorial of the city’s former power and prestige.

When Alexander the Great came to Egypt he wanted to establish a city. Memphis was too far inland, south of the delta, so he chose the site by the sea that is now Alexandria. When Alexander died in 323 BC, his illegitimate half-brother Ptolemy came to Egypt to establish the city of Alexandria. For a time he kept Alexander’s body at Memphis but it was later moved to the new city. This began the Ptolemaic dynasty of Egypt. Ptolemy established the cult of Serapis in Egypt at Saqqara. Memphis thrived until the arrival of the Romans when it lost its importance in favour of Alexandria.

If You Go:

♦ I’d highly recommend the services on land and river of the Escapade Travel who offer professional, friendly service.

♦ I stayed at the Fairmont Nile City My room was on the 19th floor overlooking the river so I enjoyed the beautiful view and pleasant surroundings. The service at the hotel was superb and the staff most congenial and friendly. There is a pool on the roof of the hotel. There is also a spa and fitness centre, casino, exquisite dining rooms, bars, movies and shopping area.

About the author:
Ruth has been a travel journalist for over thirty years, and recently published her first historical fiction novel SHADOW OF THE LION: BLOOD ON THE MOON, Volume One of a two-book story about the fall of Alexander the Great’s dynasty, now available on Amazon.com. Her research included the founding of Alexandria. So when Ruth was invited on this special press trip, courtesy of Egyptian tourism, it was a dream come true. She saw all the sights from Aswan to the Red Sea and besides this fascinating stay in Cairo, she even had her own tour of the great city of Alexandria. See Ruth’s blogs at travelthroughhistory.blogspot.com, shadowofthelion.com and her website at www.ruthkozak.com

Photo credits:
Pyramids from Cairo by Brett Jordan on Unsplash
All other photos are by Ruth Kozak:
View of Cairo
Old Cairo Bazaar
Egyptian Museum
Hanging Church
Ruth at the Pyramids
The Step Pyramid
Memphis

Looking for a Spiritual Tour of Egypt? Check out the small group guided tours available from Body Mind Spirit Journeys

by W. Ruth Kozak

I am on a wooden wharf by the banks of the Nile River at Aswan, in Egypt with my travel companions. There are many small boats tied up along the river bank, their helmsmen eagerly awaiting passengers. We will be the only ones that day – ten of us: six travel writers, an Egyptologist, a tourism rep from Aswan and two burly escorts dressed in business suits.

Strewn along our path are collections of beads, carvings and other trinkets laid out on blankets. We are welcomed by a group of smiling, dusky-skinned men and boys who surround us . They are dressed traditionally in long striped cotton gelabyas, some wear white turbans. They show us the brightly coloured woven scarves, and other wares. “Please, buy!” They thrust out carvings cats and scarabs. “Very nice. Look, alabaster!”

Unfortunately we have no time to bargain and buy souvenirs this morning. We’re on our way to board a boat that will take us to visit the island temple of Philae. Hanan, the Egyptologist explains, “These dark-skinned people are Nubians. They live in settlements along the river.” She tells us that because of the lack of tourists due to recent political unrest, these souvenir hawkers and boatmen are struggling to make a living. Hanan points out a settlement of yellow brick houses clustered under a sandy hill across the river. “That is one of their villages. They call it ‘Elephantine’, perhaps because the hill is shaped like an elephant.”

The Nubians are one of the oldest cultures in Africa and can trace their history back to before 7000 BC. Their name may have originated from an Egyptian word nebu, meaning “gold”. In antiquity, Nubia was a land of great wealth, gold mines, ebony, ivory and incense. Although much of their land was desert, the areas near the Nile were irrigated so it became known for its agriculture. They lived in the area of south Egypt and north Sudan and had their own dialect and traditions. Although most Nubians now speak Arabic, their language is the oldest recorded language of Africa though they didn’t develop a written language until late in ancient times.

With our handsome young Nubian boatman at the helm we sail down the river. These boatmen are renowned for their skill as skippers and fishermen. Most of the small craft including the feluccas that sail on the Nile are commandeered by Nubians. The Nile is a vast river, much wider than I’d expected, and fast flowing.

The descendants of the ancient Nubians still inhabit part of the area that was once ancient Nubia, but after the building of the Aswan High Dam in 1960, most of their ancestral lands were flooded uprooting Nubian farmers and fishermen. Today they are a marginalized people, living on the fringe of Egyptian society. They have been forced to settle in small communities along the Nile. The dam created a 500 mile long lake, Lake Nasser, which flooded ancient temples and tombs as well as hundreds of villages and farmland. The Nubian’s lives and culture were uprooted by this forcible eviction from their lands. Consequently they have felt ostracized. A new constitution promises to bring the Egyptian Nubians back to their original territories and hopefully, if this is enacted, it will improve their future.

Nubia was always a land of mystery and legend. Many of the pharaohs of ancient times were Nubians. At the site of Memphis and Karnak there are Nubian monuments. In 747 BC the city of Thebes, near Karnak, was besieged and the Egyptians called on the Nubian king for protection. Thebes was rescued and for the next 100 years Nubian kings ruled in Egypt. Archaeologists have worked to excavate as many ancient sites as possible and managed to save over 5000 Nubian objects but many of the Nubian treasures still lie beneath the waters of Lake Nasser. One of the archaeological sites that was rescued and restored is Abu Simbal, at the far end of Lake Nasser. Another is the Temple of Philae, restored on a small rocky island once known as Apo, which means “ivory”.

The scene is pastoral and serene as we cruise along the shore. Herds of goats and cattle graze and farmers plod along palm-shaded paths leading donkeys laden with baskets of produce or heaps of cut sugar-cane. An egret flies out of the reeds. It is easy to see how this river has been the life-stream of Egypt from antiquity. The river represented the god Osiris’ capacity to renew the earth and restore life. In ancient times, religious festivals were held as the Nile receded and when it rose toward its flood stage.

The boat rounds a bend in the river past a mound of giant stones that stand like a sentinel. Not far ahead I see the sand-stone buildings of the Temple of Philae fringed by a stand of palm trees.

Philae was once the centre of commerce between Egypt and Nubia. The granite quarries nearby attracted a population of miners and stonemasons. When the first Aswan Low Dam was completed by the British in 1902, many ancient landmarks including the temple complex of Philae were in danger of being submerged. It was decided to relocate the temples piece by piece to nearby islands but instead the foundations were strengthened. In 1960 UNESCO started a project to try and save the temples from the destructive effects of the Nile waters. By then the rising water had submerged up to a third of the island’s buildings. Various methods were used to try and pump the water away but eventually every building was dismantled and transported to a nearby island situated on higher ground.

The temple complex was built during the Ptolemaic dynasty (380-362 BC). Its principal deity was Isis but there are shrines dedicated to other gods. The most ancient temple was one built for Isis, the goddess to whom the first buildings were dedicated. It was approached from the river through a double colonnade. Because it was supposed to be the burial place of Isis’s husband, Osiris, Philae was held in great reverence both by the Egyptians to the north and the Nubians in the south. Only priests could dwell there. On the walls inscriptions tell the story of Osiris and how he was murdered.

Our Egyptologist, Hanan’s enthusiasm and passion for her country’s history makes the past come to life as she tells the stories depicted on the hieroglyphics, how Isis took revenge on her husband, Osiris’s, murderer. “Osiris was slain by his brother Seth and discovered by Isis. She brought Osiris back to life.” The story of Osiris’ resurrection played an important part in the cult that became symbolic of the pharaohs of Egypt. Hanan explained the significance of Isis’ son, Horus, the falcon-headed god. Dead pharaohs were equated with Horus.

The Philae temple was closed in the 6thcentury AD by the Byzantine emperor Justinian. After that it became a seat of the Christian religion. Ruins of a Christian church were discovered on the site. Many of the sculptures and hieroglyphics on the walls of the temple were destroyed or mutilated by these early Christian inhabitants. Most of Horus’s statues were left unmarred but in many of the wall scenes, every figure is scratched out except that of Horus and his winged solar-disk, perhaps because the Byzantine Christians saw some parallel between Horus, the god’s son, and the stories of Jesus.

After our tour we return to our boat where the boatman is waiting to take us back to Aswan. The two escorts decide to entertain us by standing on the prow, playfully daring one another to keep their balance. The boat tilts and I wonder if one of them will plunge into the river, but the good-natured Nubian helmsman grins and keeps the craft on an even keel. It was memorable day on the river and I have learned so much of the history of these proud ancient people who once ruled Egypt as kings.

Guided Aswan Day Trip Philae and Kalabsha Temples and Nubian Museum with Lunch

If You Go:

♦ Temple of Philae: www.discoveringegypt.com/philae1.htm (history)
♦ Temple of Philae: en.egypt.travel/attraction/index/temple-of-philae (Egyptian Tourism)
♦ The Nubians: www.pbs.org/wonders/Episodes/Epi1/1_retel1.htm (history)
♦ Feluccas on the Nile: www.touregypt.net/featurestories/feluccas.htm
♦ Nubian music on a Nile cruise: www.tripadvisor.ca/LocationPhotoDirectLink-g294205-i15743621-Luxor_Nile_River_Valley.html

Private Day trip: From Aswan to explore Komombo and Edfu temples plus Philae temple all with lunch included

About the author:
Ruth was recently invited on a travel writer’s press trip to Egypt, a dream come true for her. The trip to Philae was one of many adventures including a special side-trip to Alexandria; the city planned by and dedicated to Alexander the Great. Ruth’s historical novel SHADOW OF THE LION will be published in August 2014. Book 1 is sub-titled “Blood on the Moon”. Book 2 “The Fields of Hades” will follow in 2016. You can read Ruth’s blogs for her novel at shadowofthelion.com or see her website at www.ruthkozak.com.

All photos by W. Ruth Kozak, except #2 Carriage Driver and #3 Nubian Boatman by Linda Cichanowicz.

Luxor, Egypt

by Dr. Benedict Davies

For the ancient Egyptians, the West Bank at Thebes (modern-day Luxor) was their realm of the dead, an august “City of the Dead”, no less. It was a sacred domain where the transition from this life to the next began. The whole area of this ancient necropolis is graced with funerary monuments, each specifically designed to facilitate a safe onward journey into the Underworld. Most conspicuous amongst these architectural treasures are the royal memorial temples, such as Deir el-Bahari, the Ramesseum and Medinet Habu. Located not far from these cultic installations were secluded cemeteries for the kings, queens and lesser royalty from the ruling dynasties of the Egyptian New Kingdom (c. 1550-1069 BC). And all along the fringes of the Theban Foothills, where the Nile Valley cultivation meets the desert, the most prominent officials of the age constructed their own tombs as portals into the hereafter.

One of the main highlights of Luxor is, without doubt, a tour of the royal necropolis, better known today as the Valley of the Kings. Here, amongst some of the most spectacular tombs from the ancient world, one can still come face-to-face with the mummy of the famous boy-king Tutankhamun in what had been a makeshift and hastily-prepared tomb. Bedecked with arcane hieroglyphic inscriptions and puzzling iconography, the magnificence of these sacred sepulchres has been enchanting and astonishing travellers ever since the earliest Greek and Roman historiographers found them long-abandoned and robbed of their spectacular burial treasures.

Today most tour groups visiting the Theban west bank tend to combine the Valley of the Kings with a stopover at the memorial temple of the 18th dynasty female pharaoh, Hatshepsut. From afar, this temple’s magnificent edifice seems to have been hewn from the very cliffs of Deir el-Bahari by the gods themselves. If extremely lucky, your itinerary may allow you some time amongst the wonderfully decorated private tombs of officials that honeycomb the Theban hills. Yet, it is sadly regrettable that so few people find time to visit the ancient workmen’s village of Deir el-Medina. This remarkable site simply doesn’t register on the mainstream tourist ‘radar’. Yet, a visit to this wonderfully preserved settlement will be duly rewarded with a memorable experience.

Deir el-Medina was home to the royal artisans – the men who excavated and decorated the tombs in the Valley of the Kings and the Valley of the Queens. For anyone interested in the history, architecture and art of the tombs in the Valley of the Kings, the village is something not to be missed, an opportunity to get up close and personal with the king’s own workmen. The remains of the ancient settlement lie in a secluded and dusty valley at the southern end of the Theban necropolis. The environment here is extremely harsh. Cut off from the cooling northerly breezes, the site is hot, arid and devoid of any vegetation. The modern Arabic name of Deir el-Medina refers to the Coptic monastery that was later founded on the site. “The Village”, as it was known to its ancient inhabitants, was a state institution, specifically established to house the royal craftsmen and their families.

The village appears to have been founded at the beginning of the 18th dynasty by king Amenhotep I (c. 1525-1504 BC). From then on the settlement underwent several phases of expansion to the extent that it comprised at least seventy family homes by the time of its eventual abandonment, probably during the reign of Ramesses XI at the end of the 20th dynasty (c. 1099-1069 BC).

Nowadays, the majority of the village houses have been remarkably well preserved. Throughout the settlement, walls still stand to a height of several feet, clearly demonstrating the original living arrangements amongst the densely-packed terraced housing. Even the once-bustling main street remains a prominent feature, dog-legging its way through the centre of the village.

Deir el-Medina is also renowned for the quality of some of the tombs in the local cemetery. The workmen certainly invested heavily in all of the necessary funerary arrangements for their safe transition into the next life. Their tombs were beautifully decorated with religious iconography and especially well-equipped for life in the hereafter.

There is little doubt that the workmen were hugely influenced by the artistic conventions that they employed for their work in the royal tombs. Some can even be seen adopting excerpts from royal funerary texts that would have been so familiar to them. The best preserved tombs date from the first half of the 19th dynasty (c. 1295-1213 BC), a time of great prosperity for the workmen. At the time of writing, three tombs are open to the public, each having been chosen on account of their beautiful frescoes. They belong to two of the workmen, Sennedjem (TT 1) and Pashedu (TT 3), and the chief workman Inherkhau (TT 359). Decorated by skilled artists, these tombs bear a striking comparison to the royal tombs in the neighbouring valleys, hardly surprising given the fact that they were built by the same gang of workmen.

For the more adventurous travellers, I would strongly recommend following in the workmen’s footsteps by taking the ancient desert track that leads from the south-west corner of the village, over the mountain ridge and down into their place of work, the Valley of the Kings. It is by no means an easy walk, with the track becoming quite steep and treacherous in places. Simply put, it should only be tackled by the physically fit and those with experience of traversing uneven and tricky terrain. For first timers, it is definitely advisable to seek out the services of one of the local guides, who will gladly offer the service of a donkey for those unaccustomed or unable to make the journey on foot.

Approximately half-way along the mountain pass, at the point where it crests the ridge that separates the royal burial ground from the Nile valley, stand the remains of an ancient group of huts. These spartan buildings were put up by the workmen for their overnight accommodation during the working week in the Valley. It would seem that after a hard day’s back-breaking toil in the royal tomb, the men preferred to retire here for the night, rather than making the longer journey back to their families at Deir el-Medina. High up in in this splendidly isolated and lofty perch, the men would have whiled away their evenings talking about the day’s events at the worksite, singing songs, telling stories or discussing private business matters.

This is a breathtaking walk, and one that is richly rewarded with spectacular, panoramic views out across the valley cultivation to the mighty River Nile as it serenely charts its perennial course towards the shores of the Mediterranean. Without doubt, this has to be the most uplifting way by which to reach the Valley of the Kings. With plans now afoot to replace tombs such as Tutankhamun’s with full-scale replica models, time is clearly running out for those who have yet to visit these marvels of the ancient world!

One Day tour to Luxor from Cairo by Flight Visiting Best Of Luxor City

If You Go:

Audio guides to the Valley of the Kings, Deir el-Medina and the Tomb of Sennedjem are available at www.iconicguides.com.

About the author:
Dr. Benedict Davies is an Egyptologist, traveller, freelance writer and the founder of MP-3 audio tours “Iconic Guides”. He also holds a PhD in Egyptology from the University of Liverpool and is a leading expert on the community of royal workmen of Deir el-Medina and the Valley of the Kings. A seasoned traveller, Benedict is particularly interested in the culture and art of the ancient Near East and the Far East.

All photos are by Dr. Benedict Davies.

Siwa Oasis, Egypt

by Robin Graham

I am at the temple of the Oracle of Amon, fabled throughout the ancient world. Alexander the Great stood here, so for once I’m in good company.

This is where he came to seek legitimacy for his rule over Egypt. The Oracle confirmed his divinity, although exactly what was said to him he took to his grave eight years later. He did well to get here, to Siwa Oasis in Egypt’s Western Desert. Others had disappeared in the attempt.

The floor plan of the temple reveals a hidden passage and chamber from which it would have been possible for a concealed priest to simulate the voice of the oracle. I think we can assume that had Alexander known about this he wouldn’t have bothered making the trip.

The temple is perched, precariously, on the edge of an inselberg -a rock hill- which would have given him, as it now gives me, an unhindered view in all directions, the lush canopy of Siwa’s date palms like a green carpet. The young Greek king must have felt that the world was at his feet.

Beyond the palms to the north, in all honesty, there is not a lot. Desert stretches between here and Marsah Matrouh on the Meditteranean coast three hundred kilometres away, and not the alluring kind – all silky dune and camel train. Sandy gravel would be an apt description, just about featureless to our eyes as we made our way here; sensory deprivation on a ramrod straight road, the empty space sweeping past us hypnotically in our shabby little car.

To the south it’s a different story. Close by the foot of the inselberg, just metres away, stands the last remaining wall of another temple to Amon, replete with hieroglyphics. Both temples would originally have been part of a larger complex. This second temple fragment can be found where the date palms form a clearing, visible from here. It’s in a sorry state, having been dynamited in the 19th century by a local police chief to build his station. Oops.

Another clearing, just a little further away, is perfectly circular as is the fresh spring that is to be found there. Tourists are told that this is Cleopatra’s Bath, but that’s a conceit of the local tourist board. Actually it’s the Spring of Juba, the ancient Spring of the Sun about which Herodotus wrote in the 5th century BC.

Herodotus thought this spring boiled at midnight and cooled at noon. In fact the warm temperature is constant; it just doesn’t feel that way to a cold hand at night, or to a hot one in the afternoon. Alexander and his entourage cannot have failed to linger here. Beyond the date gardens, the Sahara begins. A few miles south you can sit in the fresh water of a hot spring, surrounded by fifty-metre dunes on all sides and listen to birds sing in the small garden that the spring irrigates. Beyond that, nothing but more dunes and rocky crags till you reach Sudan.

To the east Al Zaytun – one of Siwa’s vast salt lakes – glimmers. In the late autumn a salt layer covers it’s surface and from a distance the lake appears to have frozen over; a bizarre sight when the daily temperature can hit thirty-five degrees celsius. At roughly twenty metres below sea level, even the water from the many springs here is salty and so of course is the soil, which the Siwans call kershef. A mixture of salt, rock and mud, it made an excellent building material, or so they thought.

Beyond the lake’s shimmering far shore, nothing but desert all the way to Cairo. It was in those sands, in stark contrast to Alexander’s successful journey, that fifty thousand of Persian King Cambyses’ men, on their way to destroy the Oracle, were swallowed up by a sandstorm.

Looking west across that green carpet, about four kilometres away, Siwa’s largest structure towers above the swathe of date palms. Though magnificent, the Shali is an object lesson in why kershef may not be your preferred building material the next time you erect a fortified city. Crumbled and in a ruinous state it still looms over the modern town, a victim of infrequent but, very occasionally, heavy rainfall.

Alexander won’t have seen this – it wasn’t built till the thirteenth century, not abandoned till the twentieth – and difficult as it is to imagine anyone saying no to him, he wouldn’t have been let in anyway; this was a forbidden city, home to Siwa’s families and closed to all others. That would be one up to me then, since they’ve moved out now and I will have the run of the place tomorrow, and will climb to its highest point, the world at my feet once again.

Budget Travel Package to Siwa Oasis from Cairo or Giza

If You Go:

Getting There: Fly into Cairo or Alexandria with one of the many international carriers, for example www.egyptair.com. From both cities the West and Middle Delta Bus Company offers services to Siwa via Marsah Matrouh on the coast. See www.bus.com For example, expect to be on the road for nine or ten hours if you start from Cairo, and around six hours if your journey begins in Alexandria.

Staying There: Visit www.siwa.com for details on the insanely exclusive Adrere Amellal (www.siwa.com/AdereAmellal.html ) out of town or the two more affordable alternatives in the centre, Ababenshal (www.siwa.com/AlbabenShal.html) and my favourite, Shali Lodge (www.siwa.com/ShaliLodge.html). All three are run by an organisation which aims to promote sustainable ecotourism in the oasis.

When to go: The oasis bakes in the summer as well as enjoying a thriving mosquito population, and in winter the nights can be cold enough to prohibit those desert camp outs, so go in Spring or Autumn to get some more temperate weather.

About the author:
Robin Graham is a writer and photographer. His articles have appeared on Gonomad, Matador Nights, Literary Traveler and Bootsnall and his photography has been featured in the Telegraph online. He formerly blogged at www.alotofwind.com.

Photo credits:
First Siwa Oasis photo by: Vincent Battesti / CC BY-SA
All other photos are by Robin Graham.

The Temples of Philae: Aswan, Egypt

by Aaron Robertson

We were tired after arriving in Aswan early in the morning on the overnight train from Cairo. However, it was a beautiful day, and we didn’t want to waste it so we headed off to see the Temples of Philae, which lie just south of the city on an island in the river Nile. With our guide, Mohammed, we arrived at the small jetty where boats leave for the island.

The completion of the Aswan Low Dam in 1902 meant that several archaeological sites on this part of the river, including the temple complex on the island of Philae, were consequently submerged for most of the year. The construction of the Aswan high dam further downstream, between 1960-70, threatened to leave these sites permanently underwater. Thankfully, UNESCO decided to remove the endangered temples from Philae block by block, and reconstruct them about 500 meters away, on the nearby island of Agilkia, which would remain above water after the high dam was finished. This ambitious project lasted from 1972-80.

As we approached the island, it was not hard to see why Philae was once known as “the pearl of Egypt”. Rising graciously out of the river, the temples exude an air of classical majesty even at this late stage in their history. One can only imagine what they must have looked like in all their splendor. As we docked, Mohammed explained that Philae was formerly a centre of worship of the god Isis. Egyptian mythology says that it was here that Isis found the heart of her husband, Osiris, after his jealous brother Seth had killed him, spreading the different parts of Osiris’s body throughout Egypt so that he could not be bought back to life.

The large temple of Isis dominates the island, and this is where we started our tour. Crossing a large, open courtyard with a colonnade running down its western side, we were dwarfed by the temple’s first pylon, or gateway. Towering images of various Egyptian gods, among them Osiris, Isis, and their son, the falcon-headed Horus, are carved into its facade. Numerous pharaohs are represented here as well, doing battle with their enemies, and making offerings to the gods to ensure their victory and prosperity. The scenes still inspire a sense of awe today, not least for the amount of work that must have gone in to creating them.

The temple was mostly constructed during the reign of the pharaoh Ptolemy II Philadelphus (284-246 BC) and his son, Ptolemy III Euergetes (246-222 BC). Despite being constructed at a relatively late stage in ancient Egypt’s history, the temple follows a very classical layout. Moving inside, we entered another courtyard, which lies before a second, smaller pylon sitting at a slight angle to the first. To the right of this inner courtyard lie the remains of rooms that used to house the temple priests and guards. To the left is a mamissi, or birth-house. This type of small building became popular after the reign of the female pharaoh, Hatshepsut (1479-58 BC), and was designed to prove a pharaoh’s supposed descent from the god Horus.

Passing the second pylon, also adorned with large images of the gods, we entered the temple’s hypostyle, or columned hall. Here you can catch a small glimpse of what the temple must have originally looked like, when much of its stone was adorned with bright colors. On the roof, Mohammed pointed out a row of painted vultures, an ancient symbol of Upper Egypt. He also pointed out a Coptic cross, cut into one of the hall’s columns during the period when the temple was used as a Christian church. Amazingly, the cult of Isis was kept alive here until the Byzantine Emperor, Justinian, finally disbanded the temple’s pagan priesthood around 550 AD. Some believe that for many years before this, Isis was worshipped on the island side by side with Coptic Christianity.

The hypostyle hall leads though several antechambers into the temple sanctuary. The walls of these rooms are covered with scenes from the legend of Osiris, depicting his death at the hands of his brother Seth, and his eventual resurrection. In the sanctuary, which once only the ruling pharaoh or the temple’s head priest had the right to enter, there still stands the pedestal for the sacred statue of Isis, used in all of the temple’s rituals. The sanctuary’s granite shrines were carried off to European museums during the 19th century, but here in the small, dimly lit room, a strong sense of ceremony still remains.

Emerging back into the glare of the bright sunlight, Mohammed led us around a number of the other small temples and buildings on the island. The oldest of these is a small vestibule built during the reign of Nectanebos I (380-362 BC), founder of the 30th and last dynasty of native Egyptian pharaohs. Also dedicated to Isis, just six of its original fourteen columns remain, linked together by a low screen wall. Close to this, on the western side of the island is one of the few remaining Nilometers. These modern-sounding devices where once used to determine the level of taxes in ancient Egypt, which changed during the year to match the seasonal level of the river.

On the eastern side of the island sits a well-preserved temple dedicated to the god Hathor, built under Ptolemy VI Philometor (170-145 BC), and a large kiosk that once served as the formal entrance to the island. This building, sometimes called the pharaoh’s bed, is named after the Roman Emperor, Trajan, but may have been built earlier during the reign of Augustus. It was never entirely completed, but its remains have stood the test of time remarkably well. Ironically perhaps, the kiosk’s fourteen massive columns became an icon of Philae long before the larger and older temple of Isis, featuring on many 19th century postcards.

After finishing our tour, we headed to the welcome shade of the island’s small café for a well-deserved drink. Sitting in the middle of the now much-swollen Nile, the island provides a remarkable setting for what was once a major site of worship in ancient Egypt. At least when we were there, it seemed positively serene in comparison to the hustle and bustle of even a small Egyptian city like Aswan. As we pulled slowly away from the island in the same small boat that had bought us there, we regretted not being able to spend longer taking in the temples’ languid, tranquil atmosphere.

Guided Aswan Day Trip Philae and Kalabsha Temples and Nubian Museum with Lunch

If You Go:

Aswan can be reached from Cairo by either plane, or by a train that also stops at Luxor on the way. From Luxor, cruise boats also make the trip to Aswan. If you haven’t organized a guided tour to the Temples of Philae before you get there, your hotel in Aswan will probably be able to organize one for you. If you want to see the temples by yourself, the point where boats leave for the island is a short taxi ride south of the city centre. This is where the ticket office for the temples is also located.

For more information:
Philae on Wikipedia
Egypt Travel – Aswan: Philae Temple Complex

About the author:
Aaron Robertson left New Zealand in 1999, and has spent the intervening years trying to see as much of the world as possible. He currently lives in Paris, France, where he works as a freelance copywriter and musician. aaronwr@hotmail.com

Photo credits:
First Philae temple image by DEZALB from Pixabay
All other photos are by Aaron Robertson.

It’s only halfway through the African Football Championship match, Egypt against Cameroon, and already Cairo streets are full of cars, not much different from any normal night, just noisier and slower. We are stuck in the middle of the celebrations in what has to be the most massive traffic jam I have ever seen in my life. I’m trying to catch an overnight train to Luxor, having cut short my tour of the Egyptian Museum in order to navigate through the traffic. We eventually pull up to the Giza train station with minutes to spare.

I’m in Egypt on a three-week research holiday to study about ancient celebrations for a future book project. An important part of that research was to be the museum and I am annoyed that my visit has been cut short. However, I have managed to see the various mummy rooms and the indescribable treasures of Tutankhamen, jewelry and craftsmanship so ornate that its beauty brings tears to the eyes, considering it was created over 3300 years ago. I quickly schedule an additional full day to re-visit the museum upon my return to Cairo in 10 days. The other main component of my research is to be visits to temples in Upper Egypt (the southern part of the country south of approximately Luxor, as the Nile flows south to north). However, the first part of my trip up to the departure of the train to Luxor has also included the sights in and around Cairo and Alexandria on the Nile delta.

There is no question that “pyramid power” draws millions of tourists to Egypt every year. Indeed, the pyramids are worth the visit by themselves. It sometimes amazes visitors that the pyramid-building phase of Egyptian history only lasted for a relatively short time, from about 2700 to 1800 BCE, mostly during what was known as the Old Kingdom. Another surprising fact is that there are more than 100 pyramids documented in the country but only about four or five are significant tourist destinations. These include the three large pyramids at Giza, the earliest pyramid called the Step Pyramid at Saqqara, and the Red Pyramid and Bent Pyramid at Dahshur. During my first few days in Egypt, I manage to visit all these. Because of the crowds at Giza, I opt to go inside the Red Pyramid at Dahshur, about 64 km south of Cairo where it is much less crowded. The Red Pyramid is actually the third largest in the world after those of Khufu and Khafre at Giza. As luck would have it, I am the only person inside during my visit and can spend time enjoying the double burial chambers, albeit devoid of sarcophagi and treasures! A long steep climb down and up a low-ceilinged shaft may be the reason fewer people choose to visit inside, but by all reports, it is the best preserved. Consider that, in their day, the pyramids would have been covered in white limestone polished to a high sheen and topped with a tip of pure gold, all of which would glisten and reflect the sun over the valley below. Amazing!

Throughout my Egyptian escapades I am accompanied by private guides and separate drivers in air-conditioned cars. In Cairo and Alexandria my guide is Dr. Aziza Ganam, a professor of history at Cairo University who supplements her income with guiding. She is extremely knowledgeable, and explains every detail of each sight to me, taking time to patiently answer my never-ending questions. An added advantage to this form of sightseeing is that it affords one the opportunity to learn more about the culture on a personal basis, and I take advantage of this to delve deeply into Egyptian politics and the religion of Islam. The gulf between cultures becomes noticeably smaller as a result.

My visit to Alexandria is just such a time. We chat constantly for the three hours it takes to drive the distance from Cairo to the coast. Once there, we begin at the new library of Alexandria, the “Bibliotheca Alexandrina.” With an eventual collection of 8 million digitized volumes, the library is a reflection of the ancient library, a world centre for scientific excellence during Ptolemaic times, between 300 BCE and 400 CE. Other stops include a well-preserved Greek theatre and the Qaitbay Citadel (right), a fortress built in 1477 on the exact spot of the ancient Pharos Lighthouse, one of the seven ancient wonders of the world.

Alexandria, although as crowded as Cairo, is very beautiful if one ignores the traffic. A promenade lines the waterfront and many other tree-lined boulevards appear throughout the city. Unfortunately, there are almost no traces remaining of the original city, started by Alexander the Great in 332 BCE, and try though they might, archaeologists seem to be fighting a losing battle in their attempts to locate such important treasures as the tomb of Alexander and remnants of the old library.

Two days later, I am at the station in Cairo awaiting the overnight train to Luxor. It passes comfortably in a first class sleeper, with dinner and breakfast served right to my private compartment. Arriving in Luxor at 6:00am, I’m greeted by my new guide for Upper Egypt, Mr. Abdelhamed Megaly, a 27 year-old history major with a wealth of knowledge. We immediately strike out for the Valley of Kings, once again in a private car, across the Nile from Luxor on the West Bank. This valley, deep in sandstone hills, was chosen by Pharaohs after the pyramid-building phase of Egyptian history in order to hide their tombs from treasure-seekers. Unfortunately, this was not successful and the many tombs found there today contain only the spectacular frescoes on the walls and ceilings. The one exception of course, is the tomb of Tutankhamen, found by Englishman Howard Carter in 1922. The only reason it was not looted was that it was hidden below another tomb. As my guide states, “Imagine what the tombs of greater kings such as Ramses II would have contained if they were still intact. Tutankhamen was just a minor king.” The valley is now organized completely as a tourist attraction and receives thousands of visitors each year.

From the valley we return to Luxor and spend the afternoon visiting the magnificent temples of Karnak and Luxor (above). Both these were part of an annual festival which I am studying in my research, the Opet Festival, so I am relentless in my questioning. Both temples are amazing. Karnak is one of the largest religious complexes in the world. Like all other temples in Egypt, it was constructed in a specific shape and was dedicated to a local god, in this case Amun-Ra. Pictures do not do justice to the immensity of it, but en evening sound and light show gives us some perspective. Following the show, we board our ship, the Sherry Boat, for four days of peaceful cruising up the Nile to Aswan, with stops at temples in Edfu and Kom Ombo. The ship is well-appointed, meals are substantial and staff very polite. Abdel, my guide, eats with me and once again, I am provided with a wonderful opportunity to make a good friend and to learn more about his country.

Our final destination, Aswan is picturesque and peaceful. I immediately like it – much better than Cairo, with virtually no traffic. Instead, the streets are full of a curios mélange of horse-drawn carriages, donkeys laden with heavy sacks, motorcycles, goats, and assorted other sights. My camera never stops as we take a carriage ride around the older parts of town. The next day we visit the High Dam, built to harness the annual Nile floods, the result of which was the gigantic artificial Lake Nasser, stretching 300 km south to Abu Simbel. In fact, we take a convoy across the desert from Aswan to Abu Simbel beginning at 5:00am the following day. Convoys are the only way tourists are allowed to travel by land in remote regions, mainly for security purposes, and ours is about 100 to 150 vehicles strong. The trip is worth the time. The huge temples of Ramses II and his queen Nefertari were completely dismantled in the 1960s to preserve them from the rising waters of Lake Nasser, and today they stand inside artificial hills looking almost exactly as they would have in ancient times, only several hundred feet above their old location..

Similar convoys over the next two days take us to visit temples in Abydos and Dendara, and finally across the eastern desert to the resort town of Hurghada on the Red Sea for some rest before I fly back to Cairo.

Private Tour Giza Pyramids, Sphinx, Memphis, Sakkara

If You Go:

Egypt is filled with the 5000 year-old stories of kings and deities that ruled the greatest ancient civilization ever known – and that is the reason I and most tourists visit. It takes at least two weeks to barely grasp the immensity of this civilization. Here are some tips that might help if you decide to go there:

• At least take a course or watch some videos on Egyptian history before going. It will really improve your understanding of the culture as it can be overwhelming at first.
• If I were to do it again, I would personally minimize my time in Cairo and concentrate on Upper Egypt, with the exception of the pyramids and the Egyptian Museum. The many artisan shops were not for me but they may be for others. The traffic is relentless and just plain annoying.
• Don’t drink coffee before the long convoys. Usually, there are no planned stops and it could get embarrassing!
• The desert gets very cold at night and in the early morning. Take warm clothes.
• Be open to cultural differences. The continuous barrage of touts trying to sell something can be unnerving but that is how they do it. They are polite but one must also be firm in saying no. People are otherwise extremely friendly and will almost always go out of their way to please. Enjoy it, even though it may require a small tip or “baksheesh.”
• Don’t attempt to arrange a first visit without a guide, either private or part of a group tour. The culture is just too different.

My experience was first-rate. The company I booked through, A-Z Tours is well-organized and efficient. They can be reached at www.a-ztours.com.

Egypt Pyramid Tours Now Available:

Private Day Tour to Giza Pyramids Sphinx and Egyptian Museum in from Giza
Private-Day Tour to Dendara and Abydos temple from Luxor
Private Day Tour to Saqqara, Memphis and Giza from Cairo with Guide
Aswan Day Tour Visiting Philae Temple, Unfinished Obelisk and High Dam in Aswan

About the author:
Doug Matthews is a writer and educator based in Vancouver, Canada, with previous careers as an aeronautical engineer and special event producer. His writing ranges from technical engineering papers to general interest pieces for newspapers and magazines, as well as original music and mini-plays. He has also published three books on special events. Check out my blog about special events at www.specialeventguru.blogspot.com
Contact: gear6@shaw.ca

Photo credits:
Saqqara step pyramid by Enrico Nunziati from Pixabay
All other photos are by Doug Matthews.