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The Best Museums and Galleries to Visit in Paris

Eiffel Tower at night

As an avid art lover, I have always been captivated by the transformative power of creativity. There’s something truly magical about stepping into a world where imagination knows no bounds and emotions come alive on canvas or in sculpture. And when it comes to experiencing the pinnacle of artistic treasures, there is no place quite like Paris. The City of Lights holds an unrivaled reputation as the mecca for art enthusiasts. It boasts an extraordinary collection of museums and galleries that span centuries of artistic expression. Join me on an enchanting journey as we unravel the best museums and galleries to visit in Paris—where the past merges with the present, and every stroke of a brush tells a remarkable story.

Louvre Museum: A Journey through Time and Beauty

Stepping into the Louvre Museum is like embarking on a time-traveling adventure where history and beauty intertwine. As I entered the grandiose halls, I couldn’t help but feel a surge of anticipation, knowing that I was about to witness some of the world’s most iconic masterpieces. The vastness of the Louvre is awe-inspiring, housing an unparalleled collection that spans civilizations and continents. The sheer magnitude of the art on display is staggering, but I was determined to seek out the gems that have captivated art enthusiasts for centuries. Standing face to face with the enigmatic Mona Lisa, I marveled at the subtle details and the mysterious smile that has intrigued generations.

Louvre museum daytime exterior view
The best museums and galleries to visit in Paris? First stop: Louvre.

However, the Louvre is not just about famous works. It is a labyrinth of artistic wonders waiting to be discovered. I stumbled upon the mesmerizing Winged Victory of Samothrace, an ethereal marble sculpture that seemed to defy gravity, evoking a sense of triumph and grace.

This place is a testament to humanity’s creative genius and a voyage through time that no art lover should miss. Prepare to be spellbound. Wander through its corridors and encounter treasures that have shaped the course of art history and left an indelible mark on our collective imagination.

Musée d’Orsay: Where Impressionism Shines

This former railway station turned art haven is a symphony of colors and emotions that will leave you in a state of pure artistic bliss. From the moment I entered, I felt a palpable energy, as if the brushstrokes of Monet, Renoir, and Van Gogh were alive and dancing before my eyes.  The Musée d’Orsay is a paradise for admirers of this groundbreaking artistic movement. Prepare to be swept away by the enchanting world of Impressionism as you immerse yourself in a gallery filled with sun-drenched landscapes, ethereal ballerinas, and soul-stirring portraits. Do yourself a favor; grab your beret and get ready to be inspired by the sheer brilliance of Impressionism at the Musée d’Orsay.

Centre Pompidou: Modern Art Unleashed

If you’re looking for the best museums and galleries to visit in Paris, this one might take the cake (oh, and Père-Lachaise cemetery)! This architectural marvel looks like a vibrant technicolor spaceship that has landed in the heart of Paris, announcing the arrival of a new era in art. As I entered, I could feel the pulsating energy of modernity coursing through my veins. The Centre Pompidou is a playground for those who dare to think differently and embrace the unconventional. Its thought-provoking exhibits and mind-bending installations challenge the very definition of art. It leaves you with a sense of exhilaration and sheer wonder. From abstract paintings that seem to defy logic to interactive sculptures that blur the line between art and audience, this is a place where creativity knows no bounds.

Centre Pompidou is one of the best museums and galleries to visit in Paris
Where the past meets the modern.

Musée de l’Orangerie: Monet’s Water Lilies and Beyond

Step into a serene oasis of artistic enchantment at the Musée de l’Orangerie, where Monet’s magnificent Water Lilies take center stage. It’s a feast for the eyes, a kaleidoscope of colors that transports you into a world of tranquility and beauty. I got lost in the ethereal strokes, mesmerized by the play of light and the reflection of nature’s harmony. It’s a haven for Impressionist and Post-Impressionist art, housing an array of captivating works by Renoir, Cézanne, and Modigliani. The intimate setting adds a touch of intimacy. Plus, it allows you to immerse yourself fully in the artistic expressions of these brilliant minds. Our friends at Mod Movers share, “You’d be surprised by the number of people relocating to Paris for art.”

Picasso Museum: Tracing the Artistic Evolution

The one and only. The legend. Pablo Picasso. Witness the artistic evolution of a genius as you explore his diverse periods and styles, from the Blue Period to Cubism and beyond. Stand in awe before his bold brushstrokes and imaginative compositions that forever changed the course of art history—I know I did. Housed in the magnificent Hôtel Salé, this museum pays homage to Picasso’s boundless creativity—and insatiable artistic curiosity. Engage with his innovative and influential artworks that continue to inspire and challenge the boundaries of art. Get ready to be mesmerized by the artistic genius of Picasso at every turn.

person observing Picasso's artwork
Don’t miss out.

Musée de l’Art Moderne: Parisian Avant-Garde

Prepare to be dazzled by the vibrant avant-garde art scene at the Musée de l’Art Moderne in Paris. Immerse yourself in a world where tradition merges with innovation and classic meets contemporary. Explore the works of iconic artists like Modigliani and Chagall, whose creations challenge conventions and ignite the imagination. From striking paintings to thought-provoking installations, this museum is a testament to Paris’s artistic vitality and creative spirit. Personally, I found their exhibitions and events simply exhilarating. The Musée de l’Art Moderne is a playground for those seeking artistic enlightenment and a fresh perspective on the ever-evolving landscape of modern art.

Final destination: Musée de l’Art Contemporain

Out of all the museums and galleries to visit in Paris, this one’s a must-stop. This is where art takes a daring leap into the unknown, pushing boundaries and redefining what we thought was possible. As I ventured through its doors, I found myself face to face with thought-provoking installations that challenged my perception of reality. Each artwork seemed to defy conventions, urging me to question and explore the depths of my own imagination. From multimedia creations to interactive exhibits, this museum celebrates the diversity and experimental nature of contemporary art. You will be captivated, inspired, and transformed by the captivating world of contemporary art at the Musée de l’Art Contemporain.

 

About the author:
Jakob O’Connor is a passionate freelance writer and intrepid traveler with an insatiable curiosity for the world. With a pen in one hand and a passport in the other, he weaves captivating stories that transport readers to far-flung destinations and inspires them to embark on their own adventures.

 

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Tagged With: Paris galleries, Paris museums Filed Under: Europe Travel, Uncategorized

How to Become a Dive Instructor

SCUBA diver under water

Utila, Honduras

by Alice Driver

At 23, Tina Doran is doing what many young travel addicts have contemplated at one time or another – pursing a career in diving. After college she moved to Spain to complete her Divemaster certification in cold waters of Marbella. From there she flew to Utila, Honduras, a location renowned for the quality and price of dive instructor courses.

Utila, HondurasUtila sits atop the second largest fringe reef in the world, and is one of the cheapest places to become a certified diver. Divers from all over the world flock to the island in hopes of spotting an elusive whale shark. Doran, who works at a dive shop on Utila, recently certified her 100th open water diver. In the future she hopes to work for Sea|mester, a semester-long program that teaches students sailing, diving, and marine biology. We discussed the practicalities of becoming a dive instructor to find out how a dream job can become a reality.

AD: How did you become interested in diving?

TD: While I was studying abroad during my senior year of college, I decided to apply for a program called Sea|mester. Students live on a traditionally rigged sailing schooner for 80-90 days, during which they learn sailing, diving, marine biology, and oceanography.

I wasn’t really interested in diving, though I was excited about going on an adventure on a sailboat. Once I realized that certification was compulsory, it was too late to back out, and I found myself part of a four-student open water course. In the beginning, I was absolutely terrified. If my instructor hadn’t stuck with me, I definitely would have quit. It wasn’t until my advanced course that the diving bug bit me.

There were two things that got me hooked on diving – the things I could see, and how diving made me feel. My buddy had a significant equipment failure on our fifth dive, our first dive without an instructor in the water with us. I was the one who provided her with my alternate air source, and we made an easy and safe ascent to the surface. That accident gave both of us a huge confidence boost – the idea that we were well trained and prepared to handle any emergency or accident underwater. Diving made me feel good about myself in that way – it forced me to admit that I was comfortable, competent, and prepared.

AD: What steps should someone take to become a dive instructor?

diver gives TD: I’m a PADI instructor, and have been a part of the PADI system since my own open water course. Therefore, the information that I provide is pretty specific to PADI which has 80 % of the world diving market share.

Around the time that I was completing my rescue training on the Sea Mester vessel, and thinking about the “next step” in dive training. My goal was to get on board a Sea Mester vessel as a staff member. As soon as I decided to do my Divemaster, I was committed to becoming an instructor. I wanted to do for someone else what my own instructor had done for me.

I researched Divemaster and Instructor programs. I wanted to go to a Spanish-speaking country so I could improve my language skills. Speaking more than one language definitely helps in the dive industry. I chose Spain because the diving conditions were different from where I had been trained. I got certified at a five star CDC in Marbella on the Costa del Sol.

It’s not easy to determine the character of a center before getting there, but it is something which has a huge impact on a Divemaster (DMT) / Instructor’s training experience. There are a few important things to consider:

1. Choose a longer DMT internship over a shorter one. Though the Divemaster course can be completed in 14 days, this isn’t the best option for someone who wants to work in the industry. Dive operations look for Divemasters and instructors with experience in retail, equipment maintenance, boat handling, customer service, and dive guiding. Fourteen days isn’t enough time to gain experience in any of those fields. The absolute minimum duration of a Divemaster internship should be one month. My own Divemaster internship lasted six, because I traded work for payment. Rescue Divers who seek to become instructors should remember that Divemaster certification isn’t just a stopover on the path to instructor – it’s a professional certification in its own right, and divers should be committed to becoming the best Divemasters they can be.

2. Look for a shop with a good reputation. If diving with PADI, a 5 star IDC /CDC is the way to go. These centers also offer instructor-level training, thereby giving you the option to continue your professional level training at that shop if you enjoy the atmosphere and the work. IDC and CDC centers also typically employ higher-ranking and more experienced instructors, which raises the bar for training standards.

3. Carefully comb through details on the Internet. Scuba Board and other similar websites are excellent places to check up on the reputations of various dive centers throughout the world. You can get a good idea about what a shop’s like by browsing the comments of former clients, interns, and divers. Becoming a professional diver requires an investment of a lot of time and money, so there’s no reason to stick around if you’re unhappy there.

4. Do some test dives. Pick a location where you want to dive, then try to find a center that caters to your needs. That way, once you’ve packed up and headed to the location where you intend to complete your training, you can check out the vibe and see whether or not you’d prefer to do your training at another shop in the vicinity. Of course, it’s possible to do dive training back home. If you feel comfortable with your home dive shop, then by all means – stay there! However, you should do your pro-level training where you intend to work because most IDC centers only hire instructors that they have trained. While no center will ever guarantee employment to its instructor candidates, it’s a good idea to complete the IDC / IE in the region where you’re seeking employment.

5. As for Instructor training, consider the length of the program, the diving packages offered, the location and continuing education / training experience opportunities. Instructor candidates who completed the 2011 PADI Divemaster program, for example, will need additional theory training before they will be prepared to enter their Instructor Development Course and take their Instructor Examinations. An IDC center that offers a prep course would be ideal. Some centers don’t offer unlimited fun diving to their Divemaster or Instructor candidates; if your plan is to stay for a while and do a lot of diving, paying per dive will become costly. Some IDC centers, such as the Utila Dive Centre where I did my training, offer specialty instructor courses, as well as a Master Scuba Dive Trainer (MSDT) prep program. This program had candidates getting in the water and team teaching with experienced instructors. The MSDT prep program was what sold me on Utila Dive Center in particular, since it allowed me a trial period as an instructor during which I had a “safety net” – the presence of a staff instructor who could correct any novice errors I made while teaching my first real open water and advanced open water courses.

AD: I think a lot of people dream of diving as a career. What are some important issues to consider in terms of the pros and cons of the job?

Tina Doran, Caroline Goransson and two friendsTD: I get paid to scuba dive. And when I’m not getting paid, I still get to dive for free. I get to travel anywhere in the world that caters to divers, and have a good chance of being employed once I get there. This opens up exotic locations in Indonesia, the Indian Ocean, the Red Sea, the Caribbean, and the Pacific.

Shops that employ instructors year round develop an amazing family dynamic. Dive professionals are accustomed to trusting their lives and livelihoods to one another, and this breeds a kind of intense familiarity, loyalty, and respect among co-workers. That said, constant exposure to coworkers, sometimes in excess of 12 hours a day, can also breed feuds and petty rivalries.

I get to do for other divers what my own instructor did for me. There’s something exhilarating about teaching people how to scuba dive – particularly those who are afraid at first. Scuba is all about control, about conquering fears and unhelpful instincts, and empowering the individual diver to deal with challenging conditions and unforeseen problems. Diving connects new divers with their minds and bodies in a way that most never have experienced before – not to mention the experience of finally seeing the underwater world in all of its splendor for the very first time! It’s impossible to describe how proud I am every time a student conquers a particularly difficult underwater skill, or comes up from a dive laughing and telling me what an amazing time they’ve had. I also find being underwater to be extremely peaceful – it’s a time away from the noise of motorbikes, ringing phones, e-mails, depressing world news, demands, and questions.

AD: What kind of sacrifices have you had to make? How do you survive financially?

Honduras sunsetTD: Diving is not for everyone. Unless you’re working at a year-round diving destination, the business is likely to be seasonal at best. Working at a year-round diving destination also tends to bring people far from their homes and families.

I work very hard, and don’t make very much money. Where I work, paychecks run entirely on commission. This is fairly common for average dive shops at highly trafficked destinations such as Utila and Ko Tao, Thailand. It lends a level of financial instability to my life. I might work three consecutive 12-hour days in a row, and see either $50 or $200+ for my efforts. It’s completely dependent on how many students I have. Some months I’m rolling in a couple thousand dollars – others I barely break even.

I often work three consecutive 12-hour days. There is no such thing as overtime – I keep working until my students meet the performance requirements outlined by PADI standards. The work isn’t always there, either – I’ve gone days at a time without students.

AD: What are the top dive sites you would like to visit?

TD: I’d say the Cenotes in Mexico and the Red Sea in Egypt. Once I can stomach dry suit diving again, I’d like to head up to Scapa Flow in Scotland, as I’ve developed an obsession with shipwrecks. When I have some money, I’ll think about excursions to the Galapagos Islands in Ecuador and the Cocos Island in Costa Rica.


Snorkel trip in Utila

If You Go:

For more information on how to spend a semester at sea sailing between islands and studying marine biology, visit the Sea|mester webpage at www.seamester.com

To find out more about the reputation of a particular dive shop visit Scuba Board at www.scubaboard.com/forums

Dive Shops on Utila
Prices: Open Water or Advanced Water Courses cost between $239-$300 depending on the dive shop. Rescue diving costs between $239-$300, and divemaster courses cost between $775-$850.
1. Utila Dive Center – In 2010 UDC was voted the best PADI dive center worldwide. www.utiladivecenter.com
2. Cross Creek Dive Center – Free accommodation (shared rooms, cold water showers) and wi-fi are included in the price of the dive class. Also, all dive masters certified at Cross Creek can dive free at Cross Creek for life (this makes diving every day very affordable if you are planning to stay on the island for several months). www.crosscreekutila.com
3. Alton’s Dive Center – They are the only shop on the island offering both NAUI and PADI dive certification. www.diveinutila.com
4. Parrots Aqua Adventures – Parrots is one of the few locally owned dive shops. diveparrotsutila.com
5. Bay Island College of Diving – They have a staff of biologists and a naturalist division from the Whale Shark and Oceanic Research Center. Divers can also volunteer at the Research Center. For more information visit www.wsorc.org. In 2005 BICD was awarded a Project Aware Environmental Achievement Award. www.dive-utila.com
6. Underwater Vision – This family owned operation has been training divers for 30 years. Free accommodation is provided to those taking dive courses. www.divingutila.com
7. Captain Morgan’s Dive Centre – This is the only dive center that offers accommodation on the Utila Cays, some of the tiny islets surrounding Utila. This means that divers are closer to the best dive spots on the North side of the island. www.divingutila.com
8. Coral View Dive Center – Started in 2005, this is the newest dive center on the island. They run conservation projects in which divers can participate, and their resort offers eighteen rooms and a penthouse.
9. Deep Blue Divers – Dive class size is limited to four students to insure personal attention. This is one of the only dive shops that has private rooms and hot water showers. deepbluediversutila.com
10. Ecomarine Gunter’s Dive Shop – This shop has been in operation for 30 years. In recognition of the party lifestyle of many travelers, they offer “the lazy boat” which takes morning divers out at 10:30am rather than 7:30am as is customary at other shops. www.ecomarineutila.com/
11. Paradise Divers – This friendly, multi-lingual shop offers a full range of dive courses. www.todomundo.com
12. Laguna Beach Resort – This resort, which is on the other side of the lagoon from the main town of Utila, is secluded and guests stay in beautiful bungalows. www.lagunabeachresort.info
13. Deep Blue Resort – This 5 star PADI resort offers an all-inclusive diving vacation. www.deepblueutila.com

About the author:
Alice Driver’s travel writing has appeared in the guidebooks To Vietnam With Love (Things Asian Press, 2008) and To Thailand With Love (Things Asian Press, 2011) and online at Transitions Abroad, Abroad View, Cultural Survival, and Go Nomad. Follow her nomadic adventures at www.alicesgastronomicadventures.blogspot.com

All photographs are by Tina Doran and Caroline Goransson.

Tagged With: honduras travel, Utila diving Filed Under: Uncategorized

Germany: Getting into the Christmas Spirit in Nuremberg

Nuremberg, Germany

by Roy A. Barnes

Before visiting Nuremberg, Germany I associated the city with just two things: The Third Reich, where those shameful, yet eerily hypnotic rallies were held to glorify Hitler and also for the war criminals trials after World War II. Yet Nuremberg is much more than that. This city of half a million people (and a 3.5 million metropolitan area population) might really overwhelm you the first time you venture into it. But because many of the city’s major attractions are within its old city walls and because of its very user-friendly and extensive public transport system of trams, subways, and buses, Nuremberg soon becomes small town manageable. This makes it easier to enjoy its numerous museums and its storied history around every turn of the corner.

Ironically, for such a big city, one of its claims to fame is the smallest sausages in Germany that weigh less than an ounce. They’re called Nurembergers. I savored their nicely-smoked taste inside the city’s old walls around its Hauptmarkt in a busy sausage house called Bratwursthausle. It’s frequented by locals and tourists alike, where the owner visits the tables and dispels his special brand of “Christmas cheer” on a daily basis.

Christmas Shopping Year Round For All Budgets, Even For The Late Michael Jackson!

Christmas ornamentHow did the largest chain of stores in the world selling traditional German Christmas items come to fruition? You can thank the military police as the reason. Circa 1963, IBM worker Wilhelm Wohlfahrt went door to door around the military installation in Boblingen trying to sell some music boxes made in Erzgebirge (in Saxony). He had only wanted to buy one originally for his friends, but was forced to buy a lot of ten from a wholesaler, so he wanted to unload the rest to recoup his money. He was found out and foiled by the military police since this activity was illegal. They suggested to him that he sell them at weekend craft shows on base instead, and the rest is history.

Within the city walls of Nuremberg is the charming and intimate retail outlet of Kathe Wohlfahrt named after Wilhelm’s wife, where every day is like Christmas, except for the music selections. They wait until December 1 to start playing Christmas music. I browsed the various Christmas decorative items like ornaments, rauchermanner/mannchen (smoking men which puff out incense), nutcrackers, and music boxes that are priced for all budgets, including that of the late Michael Jackson’s. In 2003, he bought a music box called “Children of the World”, which is still available today for customers willing to pay about $2,500 to say they have something the “King of Pop” got enjoyment from.

Dolls Galore at the Spielzeugmuseum!

doll shop in NurembergNuremberg is known for its dockenmacher (dollmakers) dating back to medieval times. Because a nice dollhouse is often on the Christmas wish list of many children. I found the most comprehensive collection of doll houses, dolls, and doll house fixtures at the Spielzeugmusuem. It will astonish you. The older the dolls and their related items, the more detailed they seemed to be. It’s amazing just how much effort the past generations have put into creating such detailed toys, an art that seems to have been generally lost because of the hyper-technological age we live in today. But this is just the tip of the iceberg of what toys you’ll see there, toys that brought back a lot of childhood memories for me.

The exhibits go back to the early 1800’s through the present day, covering four floors. They include tin soldiers, view finders, puppets, trains, animals, and rocking horses. I was especially impressed with its collection of Seiffen matchbox miniatures from the early 1900s. I was awed by the tin American toys from the previous century like those of Dick Tracy and Walt Disney. I noticed that visitors could go up to the fourth floor via a spiraling staircase, which I took and found even more of a child’s fantasy land full of interactive exhibits to help keep them occupied while the adults reminisce about their childhood.

Lest We Forget the Gingerbread

baking gingerbreadNuremberg gingerbread (known as lebkuchen) is considered some of the best in the world. Lebkuchen has its roots via the Franconian monks who created honey cakes (pfefferkuchen), of which the sweet nectar was procured from the local bee colonies since it was cheaper to use than imported Asian sugar. But the lebkuchen that we know today goes back around six centuries to 1395, though the first city gingerbread guild didn’t come out until 1643. A law was made requiring sellers to own their own oven and a number of bakers became masters by marrying the daughter of a master baker.

I visited a local family-run bakery Confiserie Café Neef to see the making of top knotch lebkuchen, known as “Elisen”, named after a baker’s daughter. I was able to savor some freshly-baked product. The mid-afternoon traffic inside was constant as patrons sat with liquid refreshments enjoying a variety of hand-created pastries and chocolate Santas with red and white suits. These works of art were almost too beautiful to eat!

German Christmas sweetsThe Neefs use such ingredients like ginger, nutmeg, cinnamon, hazelnuts, vanilla, cloves, honey, lemon peel and orange peel for their base recipe that’s over 500 years old, though they offer 8 kinds during the fall and winter (including one with chocolate). The bakery uses machinery that can produce 2500 mound-like lebkuchen in an hour (compared to individual hand molds that a skilled baker would take 5 hours to shape that same amount by scraping the batter like a brick layer does mortar for bricklaying). I was able to sample some of the raw dough that was dominated by the flavor of orange. It takes 15 minutes at 356 degrees Fahrenheit (180 degrees Centigrade) to bake the lebkuchen, and upon coming out of the oven, it’s a must try, even if you’re on a diet! What I like about the finished goodies is the lightly fruity flavor that’s got a chewy feel to it. The ones with chocolate were especially good.


Taste Nuremberg Food Tour

If You Go:

Bratwursthausle: Rathausplatz 1, 90403 Nuremberg. Phone: +49 (0911) 227695. Website: www.bratwursthaeusle.de

Kathe Wohlfahrt: Königstrasse 8, 90402 Nuremberg, Phone: + 49 (0) 9861-4090. Website: www.bestofchristmas.com

Spielzeugmusuem: Karlstrasse 13-15, 90403 Nuremberg, Germany. Phone: +49 0911-231-3164. Website: www.museums.nuremberg.de/toy-museum

Confiserie Café Neef: Winklerstrasse 29, 90403 Nuremberg, Germany. Phone: +49 (0911) 22 51 79. Website: www.confiserie-neef.de

I stayed that Sheraton Carlton Nuremberg, which is just a block away from the old city that contains the Christmas-themed attractions. The beds are quite comfortable and you get a good amount of workspace. There are speakers in the bathroom so you can hear the television, important if you’re really into a ballgame or some other program. Located at Eilgutstrasse 15, D-90443, Nuremberg. Phone: +49-911-2003-0 . Website: www.starwoodhotels.com

Nuremberg Tourist Information: www.nuremberg.de

 

 

About the author:
Roy A. Barnes writes from southeastern Wyoming and is a frequent contributor to Travel Thru History. Mr. Barnes attended the German National Tourist Office’s “The Making of Christmas” press trip in 2009, in which he got to experience the things discussed in this article. He freely wrote his impressions without any editorial scrutiny from the sponsor.

All photos are by Roy Barnes.

Tagged With: Germany travel, Nuremburg Filed Under: Uncategorized

Guatemala’s Ixil Triangle

Nebaj street and church

The Star-Crossed Shangri-La

by Rick Neal

After a tortuous bus ride through the Guatemalan highlands, I’ve finally arrived at the village of Nebaj. The tranquil scene before me is quite a contrast after spending the last four hours being squashed like a cold anchovy. A cobblestone street is lined with white, adobe buildings, streaks of rain visible against their red, tiled roofs. The damp air smells of pine needles. Down the road a quiet plaza fronts a colonial church. Panoramic, mist-shrouded peaks barely visible in the distance resemble the coast mountains of western Canada.

Central Plaza Santa Maria NebajA few women with dusky skin and thick, Mayan lips chatter in the plaza as they sell vegetables spread over linen cloths. They wear blouses with green, yellow, red, and orange geometric patterns over dazzling, crimson skirts. Their raven hair is adorned in braided strips of cloth with red and green pompoms.

Located in the Cuchamatanes Mountains, Nebaj is the largest of three towns that make up Guatemala’s Ixil Triangle, one of the smallest ethnic regions in Central America and the only place in the world where the Ixil language is spoken. Few tourists venture to this isolated area, though it offers spectacular scenery and colourful Mayan culture.

Other than the women in the plaza and a handful of children on the street, there are few villagers in sight. A gap-toothed man leading a mule raises a hand to his cowboy hat as he passes me. He is the only adult male in sight. I had read of an uprising here in the 1980s, when the army had executed much of the male population.

Nebaj woman in doorwayA stout Ixil woman with coal-black eyes approaches. In spite of the rain and the cool temperature she is in bare feet.

“Want buy weavings, Senor?” she inquires in Spanish.

“Not now,” I answer. “Maybe later. First I want a hotel. You have a shop?”

“No shop,” she says. “You come my home, not far.” Her Spanish isn’t much better than my own. We agree to meet in an hour in front of a hotel down the road that she says is the best in town. She tells me her name is Magdalena.

The hotel room is cell-like, and the 24 hora agua caliente promised by the desk clerk is a fiction, but at seven dollars a night I can’t complain.

An hour later Magdalena is waiting outside as promised. I follow her in the rain down a pebble road to a one-room, dirt floor adobe building. A wobbly table and chairs and two rickety beds are the only furniture. She shows me a tiny courtyard in the back, where several boisterous chickens and a scrawny turkey run freely. Two, fat jade-green parrots perch on a stand, while a Mayan woman in the corner weaves on a backstrap loom.

Taped to the wall is a faded photo of a young guy in military fatigues. “Your husband?” I ask.

“No, my brother. He was taken years ago by army. My husband leave many months ago.” She bites her lower lip and shrugs. “Life is hard, but… what can I do?” She says this matter-of-factly, without a trace of self-pity.

She opens two large bags and spreads dozens of hand-made weavings across the beds: table runners, wall hangings, crocheted handbags, and thick, woolen blouses in a myriad of sizes and colours. Some of the patterns look similar to the blouse she is wearing, while others are markedly different. Many have embroidered figures of birds and animals.

“You made these?” I ask.

“No,” she says. “I make some, but most by other women. Some live far. They give to me to sell because I live close to center town.” She indicates a piece of paper attached to the back of each with the name of its creator.

Guatemala weavingI purchase four table runners with red, green, and brown bird figures, a stunning blue and green bag, and a gorgeous wall hanging. I consider acquiring an extra weaving, but as my cash is running low I decide against it. Magdalena wraps the money tightly around her fingers, as if she fears it will vanish. Her take today has been about forty dollars, a considerable sum in the poorest area of this impoverished country.

Later, I set out in search of some dinner. The rain has finally stopped; the wet cobblestone streets shimmer in the late afternoon sun. The Mayan women are now packing their unsold vegetables. A couple of older men in white shirts play cards in the plaza, while a few teenage girls giggle on the church steps. Each person I meet greets me with a sincere buenas tardes.

Down a lane I come upon the “Maya Inca” restaurant. The cozy place has only a few wooden tables and chairs, but it looks clean enough and has, unlike the grubby comedor across from my hotel, an actual wood floor.

The owner is Peruvian-born Alberto Heredia, an amiable man who speaks decent English. He tells me that he moved to Nebaj several years ago, married an Ixil woman, and together they opened this restaurant. On his recommendation, I order chicken with pear sauce, a delicious Peruvian specialty.

After dinner, he brings coffee and sweet pastries and, since the two other customers have left, he accepts my invitation and joins me for dessert.

“I enjoy meeting people from outside,” he explains. “For years no foreigners came, because of the problems. Maybe you know? Now a few are coming, but we need more, to help the economy.”

“I read that the army came in the 1980s looking for insurgents, that they killed a lot of people. Is that true?”

He draws a deep breath. “There were some rebels, but the army also killed many innocent people. Many men were forced to join the army and fight their own people.” I’m reminded of Magdalena’s brother. “They destroyed two dozen villages.” He pauses to collect himself. The memories are obviously painful “In one town they put all the men in a church and shot them. They even destroyed animals, their food source. Thousands were killed. Many fled to Mexico.”

“And now?” I ask. “Didn’t the government and the rebels recently sign a peace treaty?.”

“Yes,” he answers. “A year ago, but many still have not returned. And it will take years to rebuild their villages.” He lowers his coffee cup. “These are incredibly kind, and strong people. They want only to live their lives in peace and be left alone, but for 500 years their rights have been ignored. They are… I can’t remember the English word…in Spanish, traumatismo.”

“Traumatized,” I answer.

“Yes,” he nods. “It is very sad, my friend.”

On the stroll back to my hotel, for the first time I understand the sadness in the eyes of the people I pass.

The next morning, I wake to the sounds of birds chirping. Since my bus doesn’t depart until the afternoon, I decide to take advantage of the fine weather and explore some of the countryside.

I walk along a dirt road toward the neighbouring hamlet of Chajul, crossing a bridge that leads to a path along a narrow river lined with tin-roofed houses and small gardens. A farmer working his crops removes his hat and waves. Burros are tied to fences along the road. Palm trees, giant pines, and alders wrapped in lush orchids surround me. Laughing children appear from behind hedges, only to vanish if I venture too close.

Stopping beside a small waterfall, I reflect on my time here. Over the last two days I’ve developed a great respect for the resilient Ixil people. How they’ve remained so humble and friendly after all they’ve experienced, indeed how they’ve survived at all, is astonishing. This place must have been a Shangri-La at one time. As I fall asleep next to the waterfall, I pray that soon it will be again.

I wake with a start, realizing that my bus leaves in less than an hour.

Back at the hotel, I’m frantically stuffing dirty socks into my pack when I hear a knock.

Magdalena stands in the doorway with her arms folded, her gaze fixed on the ground. She is wearing the same outfit as yesterday, except for a weaving draped across her shoulder.

I’m taken aback to see her. “Hola,” I manage.

“Hola,” she answers. Blushing, she takes the weaving from her shoulder and places it in my hand. She bows quickly and is gone. I stare down at the weaving. It’s the one I had wanted to buy yesterday. A single word is scribbled on a label: Magdalena.


Lake Atitlan Village Tour from Panajachel

If You Go:

GETTING THERE:

Nebaj can only be accessed by bus from one of two nearby towns: Santa Cruz del Quiche (2.5 hrs. US $3) or Sacapulas (1.5 hrs. US $1) Reportedly, the road has recently been paved.

HOTELS AND RESTAURANTS:

For such a remote destination, Nebaj has a good selection of accommodations and places to eat, all within a couple blocks of the main square. Many have internet access. It is also possible to arrange a home stay with a local family.

Hostel Media Luna Media Sol (www.nebaj.com/hostel.htm 502-5749-7450 US $5-6) An ideal budget option, this hostel offers two dormitories, private rooms, a kitchenette, a traditional Mayan steam bath, and even a Spanish school on the roof.

Hotel Turansa (502-7755-8219) US $9/$16/$18) Clean, comfortable rooms offer private baths, hot water and cable TV.

Popi’s Restaurant This newer eatery offers a variety of local specialties, as well as a few American dishes. A percentage of the profits goes to help local Mayan children.

Adventure tourism in Guatemala

About the author:
Rick Neal is a freelance writer living in Vancouver, Canada. Apart from Central America, he has travelled to Mexico, Europe, and Southeast Asia. He hopes to make South America his next destination. Rick has been published in offbeattravel.com and www.hackwriters.com.

Photo Credits:
Nebaj Calle y Iglacia by g.bertschinger under Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 Generic license.
Central Plaza of Santa Maria Nebaj by Rrenner  under Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 2.5 License.
Guatemala weaving by Hubertl / CC BY-SA

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