China travel | Travel Thru History

China: Idyllic Xuanwu Lake Park

by Daniel Otero

With a space in circumference of 15 kilometers, Xuanwu Lake in Nanjing is a place for those who enjoys nature walks, runs, going to the Isle to view its man made stone gardens and greenery. The artificial mixes in just nicely with the natural. Life is beating constantly around the Lake and Nanjing Wall, considered by most a bird sanctuary so of interest to bird watchers. There is a scenic panorama of romantic-long walks and boat rides. For 30 RMB (5.81 CAD), tourists can climb the old stone steps to the top of the Wall. If you have enough stamina to walk the 15K, that’s almost one-third of a marathon!

The entrance to Xuanwu Lake is gorgeous and colorful with gracious Chinese architecture. It’s located 200 meters from the Xuanwu Station metro line 1. The Lake itself has shown special historical significance since the days of the Song Dynasty; where the Navy rehearsed and trained for battle. After the construction of the Nanjing Wall, it remained a constant protection of the city and the longest uninterrupted city wall till the 17th Century.

The Wall and Lake in conjunction is a magnet for those who enjoy revisiting the past. While Xuanwu overlooks the Zifeng Tower (13th tallest building in the world) and further into the distance, there’s the Jiming Temple. It’s a must see when visiting Nanjing.

Xuanwu is a great walkabout around the Lake and Isle. Whether it’s to see it one time or the one-hundredth, it’s well worth the experience. The negatives about Xuanwu Lake are that it has turned more into a U.S. theme park, where the tickets for the boat rides are overpriced. Sadly, this has turned it into a ‘Disney’ show and not a lesson in culture or for that matter, Chinese history. It’s just too expensive and over-commercialized. It has more kiosks promoting McDonalds than Chinese food. And it’s not only the promotion of burgers. They’re also the Miami Beach Hot Dogs or the Korean elements of cuisine. Chinese culture has almost entirely been excluded from the mix of fast food menus! Outrageous as it may sound, an average Chinese lunch or meal comes to about 12 RMB (2.33 CAD). If you buy a set or combo at one of the fast food stations, prices go as high as 35 to 45 RMB (6.78 to 8.72 CAD). For the average Chinese—that’s taxing on the pocket!

I suggest, whether it’s the first time visiting or the last; to be here in China is to learn more about Chinese history/culture and admire the beautiful views. Therefore, the best way to spending money is to climb Nanjing’s historic and most beautiful wall, and walk the distance to contemplate on the gorgeous buildings, pagodas and temples far off into the distance. Then, it will be a true taste of China.

Nanjing City Highlights Private Day Tour

If You Go:

Nanjing is a city easy to access through its metro system. Traveling from the South of the city or downtown, Xinjiekou–take metro line 1 going north. Get off at the third stop. The station is identified in Chinese as well as in Romanized-Pinyin, “Xuanwumen”.

About the author:
Daniel Otero is a teacher and part-time writer for Beijing Global Times and Hangzhou Weekly. He has been living in the city of Nanjing for six years. And one of the greatest reasons for this New Yorker to stay in Nanjing: its great worth of people, food and ancient history.

All photos by Daniel Otero

Nanjing’s Pilu Temple

by Daniel Otero

Hanfu Lu (Street), like most of Nanjing (Jiangsu Province) holds mysteries and hidden treasures which not even the locals know about. One has to look carefully. Then there it is! The Pilu Temple, it’s one of the largest grounds in the whole of China for practicing Buddhist.

One to contemplate on life’s existence through worship of the Buddha and did you know, the Temple was built during the Ming Dynasty. It roughly took forty-four years to build and complete (1522 – 1566).

For 20 RMB the grounds hold an opportunity to walk in, and with three incense given once a ticket is purchased to light-up and bow towards all four corners of the Temple several times. After, there’s a place to put the incense upright upon the blessings. There’re other forms of blessings, like buying a red-ribbon and tying it to the veranda or tree.

This temple holds promise and hope. Most of it either has red or gold colors through its premises. The first structure is for prayer, while to the right there’s a huge golden bell indicating a call for silence and respect, as the rings indicate to focus and leave behind [for a moment] all worldly desires.

How one enters the temple and how to conduct oneself? It’s as simple as stepping over, with feet not touching the small barrier through its doors and walking over a small bridge always on the right or left, but never through the center. A person can take photos outside; however, one never takes photographs of the Buddha inside the respective buildings.

By the way, through the contemplative walk, there is a beautiful white Guanyin Buddha measuring nearly three stories high in the center of the gardens.

Then, another delightful surprise, there’s a pagoda to climb up for a view of the Temple and area. Enjoy. Blessings on your journey and I hope you can find your nirvana!

Nanjing City Highlights Private Day Tour

If You Go:

How to get to the temple? Daxinggong Station on metro line 2 (red color) is the best and easiest way to arrive, if not familiar with Nanjing. Also, with enough time, the metro station holds beauty and surprises of its own. There’re two artistic murals: one showing an elegant portrait of Chinese Opera and another of beautiful women—showing them in dress, through a fashion timeline.

How to exit? Take line 3 (green color)—exit 5 in route towards the former Nanjing Presidential Palace. You’ll be in the vicinity of the 1912 neighborhood. Once you locate the Palace, take a right and walk over 700 meters to the Temple entrance on the left.

Well worth the walk and price, while viewing Nanjing’s other historical monuments.

About the author:
Daniel Otero is a New Yorker who has been living in China for almost seven years. His work has been mostly in teaching ESL (English as a Second Language) to young adults at Nanjing University of Finance and Economics. On a part-time basis he loves to travel and write about history and the relative social issues affecting China today.

All photos by Daniel Otero.

I’m Dreaming of a Red Yao Christmas

Huang Luo, China

by Brian K. Smith

A ten hour trip in a sleeper bus with a cot too short, overtop of a thin metal floor that barely protected me from the rear axle was truly the highway to hell. After bouncing around in the freezing darkness on what felt like a 4×4 road, not a super highway, I arrived in Guilin in the early morning of December 24th. The economy bus ride had seemed like an eternity as I drifted back and forth from consciousness to nightmares all night.

Shortly after my arrival, my friend Yanhua, a Red Yao minority girl, met me to give me a day tour of Guilin. Her village, Huang Luo, was three hours away by local bus. Two weeks earlier I had met her at the entrance gate to the Longsheng Rice Terraces while on a tour with my guide. She has a university degree in English from the Guilin University and speaks very clearly. Her accent is slightly British and demeanor is happy and light hearted. By late morning the sky had turned to a dark sooty colour, and large, cold raindrops slammed into the pavement.

We retreated out of the icy downpour into a restaurant just in time for a traditional Chinese lunch of fresh stir-fried meat and vegetable dishes. The afternoon turned out to be a bit foggy, with filtered sun coming through the surrounding glossy wet Karst Mountains. As we walked around the lakes and canals towards the Li river, it seemed like a dreamscape. There was an ethereal glow over the city with the moist warm afternoon air.

As night time cloaked the city in darkness the buildings came alive with dazzling neon light displays. The most incredible thing I have ever seen was the Waterfall Hotel. For 15 minutes the twenty story building became a huge cascading monster waterfall. The spectacular show was breathtaking – I stood there wondering… how do they do that?

Christmas morning was grey, but without rain. Yanhua had given me a choice of going to her friends sisters wedding or back to her Red Yao village of Huang Luo to meet her family. I wanted to see what village life was like – I had been to enough weddings – as participant and observer! Three hours later we arrived at Yanhua family’s hotel. Her mother, Pan Luifeng, in full hand knitted traditional dress, greeted us as we stepped off the bus. Yanhua changed into the Red Yao woven clothing that young and single girls wear. Shortly after we arrived the three of us headed across a swinging cable bridge to take some photographs and video at the riverside. I immediately felt I had know this family for a long time. They laughed and sang songs together while my camera clicked away. The village name, Huang Lou, actually means Long Hair. Yanhua’s mother holds the Guinness world record for the longest hair. It is very black and shinny, and wrapped around her head in a traditional bonnet style.

In the afternoon Yanhua and I took a bus trip up the narrow terraced valley to Dazhai Village. From there we hike for two hours up smooth stone steps to the “Thousand Layers to Heaven” viewpoint. The terraces truly did disappear up into the etherial fog. It was so quiet on the side of the mountain – only our heavy breathing from climbing thousands of steps could be heard. We were treated to a little sun, but the clouds thickened on our return and a cool light mist fell on our shoulders. This was Christmas Day – what a special way to spend it no matter the weather was!

Shortly after arriving back at the family hotel we sat down (parents, grandparents, uncles, aunts and brother) to an amazing traditional 12 plate feast. The steaming bowls had an assortment of duck, fish, pork, beef, sautéed vegetables and rice that Yanhua’s brother, Pan Baoliang, had prepared. The dishes were rich in flavour and prepared to perfection. To compliment it we were served sweet potato wine, yam wine, rice liquor and beer. Interestedly, all alcoholic beverages are made by the women in the village, not the men! Grandpa sat beside me and kept filling my rice bowl with whatever liquor was closest to us.

Grandma sat across from me with a glint in her eye. It was that kind of glint that means “I think you are the right man for my granddaughter!” At the start of the dinner I stood up thanked everyone for making me feel so welcomed on my special day of the year to spend with family. Yanhua’s mother returned the thanks by saying I am part of the family and always welcomed!

We laughed and ate and drank through the evening. This wonderful Red Yao family wanted to make sure I did not miss my Christmas celebration. Even though I could not speak their dialect, it was easy to understand the joy and happiness that made the dinner so cozy and special on a cold winter night. Later on in their evening, Yanhua and Pan Luifeng and I watch the movie “ A Christmas Story “ on their computer while huddled together in front of glowing charcoal embers in a heating pot on the floor.

In all my years of travel this was the most special of all Christmas dinners. There are times were travel makes you wish you could ignore the return ticket home and just stay put for a comfortable while. This was one of those times!

If You Go:

Travel Recommendations: International flights from North America to Beijing. Then domestic flight to Guilin: 3 hours Also HST (train) from Beijing West train station to Guilin: 10h 40m Guilin (Bus station) to Huang Lou: 3 hours

About the author:
Brian K. Smith has traveled to 41 countries and in the last 8 years has traveled to China 8 times. He is co-founder of Adventurocity. Brian is a Master of Photographic Arts with Professional Photographers of Canada and also a National Judge of photography. He is a member British Columbia Association of Travel Writers and an Association Member of MSF Canada. In September 2015 Brian was invited to attend and participate in the Pingyao International Photography Exhibition in mainland China.

All photos are by Brian K. Smith MPA:
Washing hair in the river
Pan Luifeng preparing dinner
Rice Terrace on the way to heaven
Red Yao Chili Fish
Pan Luifeng making Yam Wine

Experiencing Strange Chinese Beer

by Lawrence Hamilton

There is a famous Monty Python joke comparing American beer to making love in a canoe. Needless to say this old adage could be used to describe most beers in China. The most common beers are simply weak lagers with an alcohol content that barely scratches 3.5 %. Most of the usual suspects you find in stores around the country include Harbin, Tsingtao, or several other subsidiaries. On the whole, these brews are acceptable standard beers. They perfectly couple with a spicy Sichuan pepper dish or serve as the ideal bystander at an after work banquet.

Now is the time I confess that I am a complete and total beer nerd. One of the hobbies I picked up living in Australia was that of an avid home brewer. The idea is simple as it is inversely illogical, you home brew to drink on the cheap, but you have to drink fancy beers to learn how to make better home brew. This pretty much makes it the perfect occupation to make your alcoholism seem like a neat hobby. Nothing excites this part of me more than finding some new beer to put on the palate.

Leaving Australia and returning to China meant being away from the allures of Chimay Blue and the latest in Pacific Northwest IPA’s, I guessed that being force fed the Chinese equivalent of Budweiser for 2 1/2 months would at least force me into some sort of limited sobriety. The only thing worse than being sober, is being drunk on Chinese alcohol, or so I thought.

Luckily my imaginings were wrong. For the discerning eye, there is a whole world of completely random and strange beers that seemingly pop up out of nowhere and in the most unlikely of places. Similar to a bolt of lightning, you just don’t know where or when these beers are going to strike.

Walking around a stationary shop looking for some pens I came across a Hefeweissbeir Biere Blanche, aptly called ‘Farmer.’ What the hell is this, I thought? Not generally being a fan of wheat beer (I tend not like beers that use coriander as a flavour, it gives the malt a slightly off vanilla aftertaste) I passed it on to a co-worker. She claimed it was ‘something else.” I noticed when she left half of it still remained in the can.

A small shopping centre near the ‘ghost city’ of Zhengdong introduced me to the family of Big Bear beers. Ranging from 4.7% to 12%, these beers could keep Siberia chugging through an Artic winter. I drank a can on the train back to my Kaifeng. The flavour was dark and intense. It would be best described has having the malty backbone of a brown bear and the hoppy skeletal system of a field mouse.

One day at the local shop that sells yogurt, I discovered a six pack of something called ‘Cheerday,’ The can said it was fresh from the green waters of Qingdao lake. I hadn’t seen it before nor I have I seen it since. The taste quite literally resembled actual lake water, but the drink did make me smile.

Once I started looking for more and more beers to fill my appetite, the list just kept growing.

Aptofel Brau, anyone? At 7.9 % alcohol and 8 Yuan a can, I think I know the answer. How about a Dbuchu? This black beers’ can features a giant golden tiger jumping over an image of the world. The can has Chinese, Russian, German and Hebrew written on it. This is truly a beer for the modern cosmopolitan man. Conversely one could try the simple, yet elegant, Burgfirst German lager. The perfect refined drink for when you are waiting for your rice to cook.

Once the trapdoor of Chinese beer is opened, turning back becomes impossible.

Of course, no group of random assorted parts can exist without a leader. That leader is Bestly, the king of the Chinese random beer. Some things can get better. Other things are Bestly. Whenever I fret over not spending enough time on my work or that I should be doing something more constructive, I look down at my mate Bestly and realize that I am not drinking alone, I am just spending time with a friend, whose name happens to be Bestly.

And that leads to another random observation. It seems almost all of these beers are imported from Germany, but are they really? If not, then where do they come from? How are these beers funded? The journalist in me tells me I could probably spend time researching and finding out these answers, but then where is the fun in that? I think I would rather kick back with my Asia-Pacific Ice Anchor and let someone else do the hard yards.

I would like to imagine that most of these hardy beverages are made by a couple of friends who just happen to know someone who know someone who owns an aluminum smelting plant. After successfully brewing their mixture in someone’s backyard, the cans are made and soon the duo are off driving their bung-bungs around to different local shops. The profits would have to be slim, as most of these beers retail between 3-5 yuan. These friends, don’t do it for money, they just love to home brew. There’s one thing that all home brewers know and that is nothing beats a unique drink.

Private Shanghai Brewery Tour with Rice Wine Tasting, Snacks

If You Go:

China has a full range of beers available at most shops, supermarkets, and street stalls. Tsingtao is major international brand and can be found all over the country. Independent micro breweries operate major cities such as Beijing, Shanghai and Xian. Prices range for 3 yuan to 10 yuan for a can of beer. Imported beers and Microbrews can be considerably more expensive.

Small-Group Food and Brewery Night Tour with Beijing Local Expert Including Hotel Pickup Service

About the author:
Lawrence Hamilton moved from Kentucky to Australia with long stretches in Asia. You can find his work at Vagabond Journey, Matador Network and the Otago Daily Times. He currently lives in Dunedin, New Zealand.

All photos are by Lawrence Hamilton.

Comfort Food In The Heart Of China

by Brian K. Smith

The historic ancient capital of Xi’an in the centre of China is where the first emperor of China rose to power. Tourists from all over the globe come here to see the Terra-cotta warriors – dug up from a massive tomb that is an active archeology site. It is also the terminus for the famous Silk Road that was a trade route from China to the Mediterranean Sea, when a camel or horse was the everyday method of transportation.

In modern times part of that history still lives on Xi’an. Over the last decade the ancient city wall has been restored back to its splendor of over 600 years ago. Within the city walls lives a large population of Muslim descendants of the Silk Road days of trade. Along with their unique customs also comes their unique food.

In the Muslim quarter of Xi’an there are countless vendors selling BBQ meat, hand made noodles, and many dishes that use mutton or beef with eastern spices as the base. Fortunately their food spreads out across the city in the form of restaurants and kiosk. In the neighborhood near my hotel just a few blocks of walking took me to an amazing Muslim restaurant where the Chef serves a dish called du wah (pita bread soaked in lamb soup). It reminded me of poutine from our French heritage in Canada.

There is something about comfort food that is immediately recognizable – and this dish hit the spot. Made from pita bread, sweet potato noodles, mutton, and broth – rich with flavour and creamy in texture, it instantly makes you feel cozy and warm. Add some pickled garlic and pepper to your taste. The dish goes back to the days of the West Market at the terminus of the Silk Road. Hungry and exhausted traders arriving after months of travel could enjoy this dish in celebration of a long journey’s completion. Today a short bus ride from anywhere within the city walls will deliver you to this treat of the past. Add a local beer as your companion to this dish to complete the experience.

One Day Private Walking Tour in the Old City Area of Xi an

If You Go:

The restaurant is on No.38 Jian Guo Road, Xi’an, Tel:15029052923. Take No.43 or 45 or No. 612 or 300 bus from Drum Tower. Get off at Da Chai Shi bus station, go right till the first crossing, turn right on Jian Guo Road, go straight about two blocks. It is on your right.

Getting there by Air:
Beijing to Xi’an – There are more than 21 return flights a day served by such popular carriers such Air China, China Eastern Airlines, Shanghai Airlines, China Southern Airlines, Sichuan Airlines and Hainan Airlines. The length of flight is approximately two hours.
Shanghai to Xi’an – Served by Air China, China Eastern Airlines, Shanghai Airlines, China Southern Airlines, Sichuan Airlines and Hainan Airlines. More than 18 return flights a day, and its length is approximately 2 hours and 20 minutes.

By Rail:
Beijing to Xi’an – HST (High Speed Train) from Beijing West Railway Station 4 hr 40 min. Ten each direction per day. Arrives at Xi’an North Railway Station
Shanghai – Xi’an – Only regular train travel to Xi’an Railway Station: No. 151, Huancheng Road, Xincheng District, Xi’an, Shaanxi 710005, China.

About the author:
Brian Smith has traveled to more than 41 countries around the world. His favorite destination in the last seven years has been Asia with seven trips to China, including Tibet. He is a seasoned adventurer and is co founder of Adventurocity with his business partner Rick Green. Their motto is ” Why take a trip when you can have an adventure”. www.adventurocity.com. Brian is a career professional photographer, with a Masters of Photographic Arts (PPOC). Twitter: @fotocraze

Photo credits:
All photos are by Brian K. Smith:
West Gate Plaza – Xi’an China
Restaurant entrance
Du Wah (Pita bread soaked in Lamb Soup)