A Journey through the Colosseum’s Timeless Spectacles:

by Anne Harrison

By the time we left the hotel, it was already late afternoon, and our plane left at dawn. The buildings shimmered with a golden glow particular to Italian cities of stone and marble.

After fortifying ourselves with an espresso, we strolled to the stylish Via Veneto. Lively and fashionable back when Rome was ruled by the Caesars, just on a century ago this ancient quarter consisted of terraced gardens and vineyards. Then the Prince of Piombino sold part of his country estate to develop a luxurious neighbourhood of piazzas and palazzos. (The design proved so successful the Prince could no longer afford to live here.)

The Via Veneto opens onto the Piazza Barbarini. Here stand two of Bernini’s fountains; his first -The Triton – and The Fountain of the Bees. He designed the latter around the Barbarini’s family emblem, in deference to his patron, Pope Urban VIII.

From here, narrow streets wind to the top of the Spanish Steps.(On the Via Sistine is the convent Nostra Signora di Lourdes, one of the many throughout Italy to take paying guests.) At the top stands the Trinita De Monti, a twin-towered Gothic church built in 1495 by Charles VIII of France. As we arrived a bride and groom left to the accompaniment of peeling bells. The church contains two works by Daniele da Volterra, a pupil of Michelangelo, (who was later ordered by Pope Pius IV to paint clothes over the nude figures of the Sistine Chapel).

Immortalized by Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday, the Spanish Steps offer an unforgettable view across the roofline of Rome. Bronze domes glimmered under the setting sun; Keats looked onto them as he lay dying in a house in the Piazza di Spagna below.

At the bottom of the stairs is an unusual fountain, La Barcaccia. Designed by Bernini’s father, it resembles a leaking ship. Tradition holds he chose such a shape after the flooding of the Tiber on Christmas Day in 1958, which left a boat in the piazza. Pieces of travertine at either end of the fountain serve as stepping stones for anyone wishing to use the water; La Barcaccia is one of the many drinking fountains scattered across Rome.

The evening promenade filled the piazza, spilling into the Via Condotti with its lining of expensive boutiques. Yet despite the crowds, the nearby Via Margutta remained relatively empty. This street belongs to artists, and connoisseurs of art. A few small shops, unchanged in appearance for hundreds of years, simply but elegantly display a single old print or painting in their window.

After tossing a coin in the Trevi Fountain, our path wended towards the Tiber. Near the Ponte Cavour is one of the most significant monuments of Ancient Rome. Commissioned by the Senate in 13BC, the Ara Pacis Augustae (Altar of Augustus’ Peace) it is a three-dimensional record of 4th July, 43BC, when Augustus was given a hero’s parade after his victorious campaigns in Gaul and Spain. The Emperor can be seen leading the procession with his family and friends, with the next emperor, Tiberius, beside him.

Preserved under glass, this work is so exquisite some believe it executed by Greek artists. Drenched in spotlights, at night the Ara Pacis Augustae is more than a ghost of days long gone; it’s a dramatic reminder of the power and cultural achievements of Imperial Rome.

We crossed the Tiber on the Ponte Sant’ Angelo. Closed to traffic, this bridge is a quiet place to gaze over the city and river. Built by Hadrian in 134 AD, it connects the city to his future tomb, the Castel Sant’ Angelo. In the 17th century, Bernini adorned the bridge with ten ethereal angels who stand in a perpetual gale, their draperies tossed by a stone tempest.

The Leonine Wall runs along back streets from the Castel Sant Angelo to the Vatican, behind shops selling rosary beads and cardinals’ socks. These streets are often empty, as most tourist approach St Peter’s along the grand Via della Conciliazione. Like Florence’s Vasari Corridor, the Leonine Wall houses a secret passage which connects the Vatican to the Castel. More than one pontiff has beaten a hasty retreat along this ‘passageway of popes’.

By moonlight, St Peter’s Square has a magic magnified by the stillness. Even the pigeons have gone. Bernini likened the marble colonnade stretching around the square to the embracing arms of the mother church. The Basilica was closed, watched over by Swiss Guards in their colourful uniforms and long capes. Yet in a nearby building an open bronze door offered a glimpse of endless corridors, with a few officials strutting importantly past.

We crossed back over the Tiber near the Isola Tiberina. This boat-shaped island has been associated with healing for over 2000 years, having been dedicated to Aesculapius in 293BC. The islands hospital, run by The Brother’s of John of God, still administer to the needs of ill Romans.

Walking along the dimly lit Via del Gonfalone, the sound of clinking cutlery led us to an unmarked door. Inside, a fire blazed, and metre-thick walls of medieval brick supported a roof of exposed timber beams. A charming waiter deciphered the menu for us, stopping only at veal castrata. Perhaps it was the magic of the night which made this one of the best meals we had in Italy: Tuscan wine, antipasto, fresh bread, minestrone, veal staccota and lemon cakes.

Our route home took us past the only perfectly preserved ancient building in Rome. The Pantheon, in the Piazza della Rotonda, was designed by the Emperor Hadrian in 125AD. Hadrian made the unique design of a Roman dome on a circular base, in the form of a Greek temple, all in perfect proportion and symmetry. The dome is higher than St Peter’s, and its consecration in 609AD prevented the plundering which destroyed so much of Ancient Rome following the Empire’s protracted fall.

Next time I will return during a thunderstorm, when the rain splatters through the roof’s circular opening onto the marble floor, and lightening illuminates the tomb of Raphael.

The Piazza di Sant’ Eustachio is reached from the Pantheon via the narrow Via Palobella. This small piazza was filled with locals making a detour on the way home for Rome’s best coffee. The tiny Sant’ Eustachio Cafe was filled to overflowing, with people spilling out into the piazza with their coffees. By this time of night the coffee was served heavily laced with aniseed, giving it an almost mystical quality.

It may border on sacrilegious to spend only one night in Rome, but a traveler adapts to what is available. We’d touched on the spirit of the city, and there is always next time. There has to be, else we could never leave.

Browse Rome Tours Now Available

If You Go:

Ever considered staying in a convent or monastery? There are numerous websites to help, such as: www.bookingmonastery.com or http://www.monasterystays.com.

The official Rome Tourism Website

For ideas on what’s on in Rome

About the author:
Anne Harrison lives with her husband, two children and numerous pets in regional Australia. She discovered travel at the age of ten, then the world of history and philosophy. Her jobs include wife, mother, doctor, farmer, cheese-maker and local witch doctor, and her ambition is to be 80 and happy. Read more at anneharrison.com.au and http://hubpages.com/@anneharrison.

All photos by Anne Harrison
A view towards St Peter’s from the Tiber
The ever popular Spanish Steps
A detail of the Trevi Fountain
The Castel Sant Angelo
Raphael’s tomb, the Pantheon

The Gathering Point

by Ron Ellege
What do dancing young people, senior sojourners, and Pope Francis have in common? The Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore in Rome, Italy.

Viewing its Activity

When in Rome, our go to hotel is the Mecenata Palace which is a worthy refuge of elegance, located atop Esquiline Hill. The hotel is directly across the street from the Basilica, and our requested room provides an unobstructed view of the church.

Over the years we have watched groups gather at twilight for the beginning of their pub crawls. Dividing into teams, they guzzle through drinking games in the piazza while preparing for their evening of revelry. We have observed crowds gather for marches, tours, protests and rallies. From blurry eyed, early morning senior groups touring the Basilica, to high-spirited youth groups assembling to sing and dance in the square, this church is a well celebrated gathering point.

On June 4, 2015, Pope Francis visited Santa Maria Maggiore to celebrate the annual Solemnity of Corpus Christy. The hotel provides an excellent vantage point for this festival held each year on the Basilica steps. My article and pictures of this assembly can be viewed at, “Pope Francis visits Santa Maria Maggiore.”

Importance and Prestige of this Basilica

There are over 25 churches in Rome dedicated to Mary, Santa Maria Maggiore is the largest of these Marian churches. This Major Papal Basilica is prominent in the tradition and adulation of the Catholic community worldwide. Many travel blogs rate Santa Maria as one of the ten most beautiful churches in Europe. Walks of Italy tour Major Basilicas of Rome, includes it as one of “the three most important churches in Rome.” Frommer’s rates it #3 in its article; “The Best Churches.” If you are a cathedral buff, Italy is not complete until you have experienced this great lady.

Located on Esquiline Hill, one of the ancient “Seven Hills of Rome,” the present Basilica dates back to the fifth century AD. It was constructed between 432 and 440 to celebrate the major output of the 431 Council of Ephesus. In Catholic tradition, the Basilica is an attestation of the importance of the Virgin Mary as the Mother of God.

This Basilica is Rome’s only remaining example of early Christian architecture whose core structure remains as it was 1600 years ago. Step in the door and wonder surrounds you, grand and modest – simple yet extravagant, art which captures the eye is witnessed in every direction. The mosaics found in Santa Maria Maggiore are among the oldest representations of the Virgin Mary in Christian Antiquity. Revelations of human thought, presented through combinations of differing styles of mosaic expression.

The Nave and Triumphal Arch

The golden mosaics adorning the triumphal arch date from the 5th century and depict scenes from the early life of Christ and the Virgin Mary. On the left at the top is a panel depicting Christ’s enthronement with a group of angels as his court. Below this is the Epiphany or Adoration of the Magi. The young Christ is seated on a throne with Mary on his right, they are attended by angels.

Panels on the Right side of the triumphal arch include the Presentation in the Temple; the Flight into Egypt; Herod visited by the Magi; the city of Bethlehem. The top center panel displays a circle containing the apocalyptic throne of Christ with the Book of the Seven Seals, flanked by St. Peter and St. Paul.

The Apse

Italian painter and mosaic maker Jacopo Torriti is credited with the adornment of the apse, he crafted it in 1295. The magnificent central work shows the Coronation of the Virgin in which Jesus and Mary are seated on a throne with Jesus placing a jeweled crown on Mary’s head. The sun and moon are under their feet accompanied by a choir of adoring angels. Standing to their left are St. Peter, St. Paul, St. Francis of Assisi and Pope Nicholas IV. Standing on the right is St. John the Baptist, St. John the Evangelist, St. Anthony and Cardinal Colonna. The apse of Santa Maria Maggiore is the most important surviving example of Roman mosaic art from the late middle ages. Descend below the high altar and you enter the burial place of Saint Jerome, this 4th-century saint translated the Bible into the Latin language (the Vulgate). Upstairs, located in the Borghese Chapel, is “Salus Populi Romani,” believed to be the oldest Marian image in Rome. However, on display in this vault is arguably the most important artifact of the Basilica, The Reliquary of the Holy Crib. This crystal shrine, designed by Giuseppe Valadier, is said to contain wood from the Holy Crib of the nativity of Jesus Christ.

The Legend of the Snowfall

Legend has it that an aristocrat named Giovanni, and his barren wife were without child. Seeking divine intervention they committed to build a church to the Virgin Mary. She appeared to them in a dream on the night of August 4, 352 A.D. and told them that a miracle would show them the location on which they were to build the church. That night, Pope Liberius was troubled by the same dream. On the following morning, he travelled to Esquiline Hill and found it miraculously covered in snow. Liberius then traced an outline for the location of the planned church. Although many feel this legend has little basis in fact, to this day the church on Esquiline Hill is often referred to as Our Lady of the Snow.

5 Reasons to visit Santa Maria Maggiore

1. The opulence of its décor.
♦ This gem will keep your camera snapping and your eyes twinkling from the grandeur of its marble floors, tapestries, mosaics, statues, tombs and relics.
♦ Its spectacular ceiling is said to be decorated with gold which Columbus transported from the new world.

2. The freedom to move about with little crowding
♦ Check the schedule for special occasions and visit any other time.
♦ Only on rare occasions is this venue crowded.

3. Proximity and ease of access
♦ A four block walk from the main train station and Termini Underground.
♦ The city bus stop is on the corner of the piazza
♦ A scheduled stop for all Hop On Hop Off tours
♦ Only a ten minute walk from the Colosseum.

4. It’s FREE! There is no cost of admission
♦ Stay as long as you want, return as often as you please.

5. Its prominence and status among Rome’s churches
♦ Santa Maria Maggiore is one of the Seven Pilgrim Churches of Rome
♦ It stands among the four patriarchal basilicas

Maria Maggiore is listed as a “Top 10 Attraction” and “Must See Venue” in most major guide books, including Rick Steves’.

If You Go:

Expect to spend several hours in this grand Basilica and by all means, bring a camera. Guided tours can be arranged through many of the local or world-wide guide services such as Frommer’s or Walks of Italy. Self-guided tours, complete with audio guides are available in the vestibule. For information visit their official website.

Hours of Operation: The Santa Maria Maggiore Basilica is open Monday through Saturday from 7:00 to 19:00 (in winter until 18:00), on Sundays and holidays from 9:30 to 12:00. Free admission.

How to get there: get off at the stop termini of the underground; take via Cavour southwest 4 blocks, the Basilica is on your left. The Basilica is located on the square with the same name – Piazza di Santa Maria Maggiore also referred to as Piazza dell’Esquilino.
Address: Piazza di S. Maria Maggiore, 42, 00100 Roma RM, Italy
Phone: +39 06 6988 6800

Link for GoogleMap is HERE.

Churches of Rome Small-Group Tour: Maria Maggiore, Santa Pudenziana, and Basilica di Santa Prassede

About the author:
Ron Elledge is a Freelance Writer/Photographer. You can see some of his work at these sites:

www.writtenfyi.com (blog)
www.ronelledgeexposed.com (photography)
ron@writtenfyi.com (email)

All photos are by Ron Elledge.