Russia travel | Travel Thru History

Leveraging Innovative Features of a VPN to Browse Freely While in Russia

Internet restrictions and censorship have continued to pose challenges for individuals in various parts of the world, making the need for secure and unrestricted Internet access increasingly crucial. In countries like Russia, where internet freedom is curtailed by government regulations, such as the recent restriction imposition on 81 European publications due to an EU sanction onion some Russian outlets, leveraging the innovative features of a virtual private network (VPN) has emerged as a viable solution for individuals seeking to browse the web freely and securely.

Though some people may resort to private browsing with features like Google Chrome’s Incognito mode, InPrivate Browsing of Microsoft Edge, Safari’s Private Browsing, Opera’s inbuilt private tabs, and Firefox’s Private Browsing, it may not be the ultimate solution, as your ISP, hackers, government agencies, and other third parties can still monitor your browsing history if they access your IP address. Therefore, you will still need the innovative features of the VPN to browse freely while in Russia, even if you have a classic VPN.

Why people travel to Russia

People travel to Russia for various reasons; however, a crucial reason is for vacationing since Russia has some important places that will leave memorable experiences for a traveler; the places you can visit while in Russia include:

1. Red Square and Kremlin in Moscow

The Red Square and Kremlin in Moscow are iconic historical and cultural landmarks in Russia. The Red Square is a central square in Moscow, surrounded by significant buildings such as St. Basil’s Cathedral, Lenin Mausoleum, Armory Chamber, the GUM, and the State Historical Museum. The Kremlin is a fortified complex at the heart of Moscow, serving as the official residence of the President of the Russian Federation. It includes palaces, cathedrals, and towers and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

2. Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg

The Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg, founded in 1764, is, unarguably, one of the largest and oldest museums in the world, having a vast collection of art and cultural artifacts, displaying works by world famous artists such as Rembrandt, Leonardo da Vinci, Rafael, El Greko, Vincent Van Gogh and Paul Gauguin.

The museum is housed in a complex of historic buildings, including the Winter Palace, and is a must-visit for art and history enthusiasts.

3. Lake Baikal

Are you looking to see the world’s deepest and oldest freshwater lake? Search no more!

Visit Lake Baikal in Siberia, Russia. Incidentally, it is also the largest freshwater lake by volume, containing approximately 20% of the world’s unfrozen surface freshwater.

The lake is considered one of the cleanest and most pristine bodies of water, home to a unique and diverse ecosystem, including many species found nowhere else on Earth.

4. Catherine Palace in Pushkin

Catherine Palace, located in Pushkin, Russia, is a magnificent royal palace known for its opulent Baroque architecture and striking blue façade. The palace was the summer residence of the Russian tsars, and it is renowned for its exquisite interior, including the grand ballroom and the world-famous Amber Room.

We just gave you the tip of the iceberg! Russia has many incredible attractions; just pack your bag, hop onto a plane, and enjoy your vacation.

Each destination has its unique history, architecture, and cultural significance, making Russia a diverse and fascinating country; however, you must be security conscious while exploring these exquisite places with the mindset that Russia may restrict the content and websites you need to enjoy your travel.

A VPN serves as a secure tunnel between a user’s device and the internet, enabling an individual to browse freely while in Russia by encrypting the user’s data and routing it through a remote server, thereby masking the user’s IP address and providing anonymity and security. Leveraging a VPN, visitors and residents can browse freely in Russia, bypassing government censorship and accessing restricted content while ensuring their online activities remain private and secure.

One crucial innovative feature of a VPN is geo-locational obfuscation, allowing users to access content unavailable in a specific region. In the case of Russia, where online content is often subject to government restrictions, a VPN enables users to circumvent these limitations and access a broader range of online content. By connecting to a VPN server in a different country, users can bypass geo-blocks and access websites, streaming services, and other online content restricted in Russia.

Moreover, the innovative split tunneling 2.0 feature enables users to selectively pass non-sensitive traffic through the internet while routing sensitive traffic through the VPN encryption tunnel. This feature can be handy for individuals in Russia who may need to access both local and international content simultaneously.

By deploying the split tunneling 2.0 feature, users can maintain access to local services and websites while benefiting from the security and privacy offered by the VPN for their international internet activity. Also, by customizing some internet traffic to access the encrypted tunnel and others to access the internet directly, users can reduce bandwidth usage, increase internet speed, and eliminate ISP throttling.

In addition to bypassing censorship and geo-restrictions, VPNs offer robust security features that are instrumental in safeguarding user data and privacy. Features such as AI-powered threat detection enhance real-time analysis of behavior and patterns, proactively identifying and neutralizing potential cyber threats as a paradigm shift in cybersecurity practices.

AI-powered threat detection works perfectly with military-grade encryption, kill switch functionality, and DNS leak protection as essential components of a VPN’s security infrastructure to provide users in Russia with a secure and private browsing experience. In an environment like Russia, where online surveillance and privacy infringements are prevalent, the innovative security features of a VPN are paramount in ensuring that individuals in the country can browse the web without compromising their data and privacy.

Furthermore, some VPN providers offer innovative features such as multi-hop, cascading, or double VPN, designed to conceal VPN traffic by routing it through multiple servers in various locations, creating a complex web and making your internet traffic indistinguishable from regular internet traffic. This feature is valuable for users in Russia, where strict regulations, especially after the “Cold War” era, and surveillance mechanisms are in place to monitor and control internet activity.

It is important to note that while leveraging the innovative features of a VPN can enable individuals to browse freely while in Russia, it is essential to do due diligence and select a tried and trusted VPN provider. A reliable VPN provider with a good rating from customer review platforms, an unblemished commitment to user privacy and security, and a strict no-logs policy is crucial in ensuring that users can trust their VPN to deliver the promised benefits without compromising their privacy or security.

Additionally, it is advisable to choose a VPN provider that offers a wide selection of servers in various locations, including those outside of Russia, to maximize accessibility and bypass restrictions effectively.

Conclusion

The innovative features of a VPN offer a valuable opportunity for vacationers in Russia to browse the internet freely while safeguarding their privacy and security. Leveraging the ability to geo-locational obfuscation, multi-hop, cascading, or double VPN, AI-powered threat detection, and split tunneling 2.0, users can freely and confidently navigate the online landscape.

As internet regulations and censorship continue to evolve, the role of VPNs in promoting internet freedom remains indispensable, offering visitors who wish to visit Russia and enjoy the country’s memorable sights and cuisine the means to exercise their digital rights and access the open web without compromise.

In the Footsteps of Tchaikovsky in St. Petersburg, Russia

by Tatiana Claudy

“What a musical city Petersburg is, in comparison to Moscow! For some time, I begin to love Petersburg more and more,” confessed Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky, a great Russian composer. [1] Although he never lived there permanently, many important events in his life happened in this city. Today I am taking you on a journey to follow his footsteps in St. Petersburg, the former capital of the Russian Empire and my hometown.

Music was Tchaikovsky’s passion from his childhood: “He found such delight in playing that it was frequently necessary to drag him by force from the instrument [piano].” [2] Yet, the parents wanted him to be a lawyer. Thus, our journey’s first stop is at the big yellow building at the Fontanka River Embankment which housed in the 19th century the Imperial School of Jurisprudence. A diligent student of mandatory classes, young Pyotr also took piano lessons and was especially good at improvisation. Nevertheless, nobody recognized his genius. “His talent still attracted attention, but none of his friends thought seriously about the fame of the future composer.” [3] Moreover, his piano teacher claimed that Pyotr had no gift for music. Only the best friend, Aleksey Apukhtin (a future poet), foresaw the heyday of his talent. Later Apukhtin dedicated this poetry to Pyotr:

“I’m proud that I guessed the spark divine in you,
Back then it only faintly twinkled,
But now glows with so mighty light!” [4]

After the graduation, Tchaikovsky began his legal career at the Ministry of Justice of the Russian Empire. Yet he dreamed of becoming a musician. When the Russian Music Society opened classes in the Mikhailovsky Palace, 31-years old Tchaikovsky seized an opportunity: “I have enrolled in the freshly inaugurated Conservatory . . . Regardless of whether I become a famous composer or a poor teacher, my conscience will then be calm, and I won’t have the disagreeable right to grumble at Fate.” [5] In this building another facet of his talent – conducting the orchestra – has been revealed. A contemporary recalled, “Extraordinary delicate and shy, he conducted with a cheerful … a slightly playful smile. His gestures were smooth … And still he splendidly controlled the orchestra and choir.” [6] Later, when Tchaikovsky became one of the world’s most celebrated conductors, he conducted the orchestra on the opening night of the Carnegie Hall in New York.

We continue our journey to visit the Museum of Theater and Music in the downtown, near the Nevsky Prospect. Here visitors can listen to rare recordings of Tchaikovsky’s music, for instance, his numerous romances – lyric pieces for both a voice and an instrument. He composed about 100 romances using lyrics of various poets, including his friend Aleksey Apukhtin. Visitors can also enjoy a wonderful display of costumes for his first ballet, “The Swan Lake.” The composer believed that “the beauty of life is that it is made up of alternating joy and sorrow, of the struggle between good and evil, of light and shade.” [7] No wonder that he liked the libretto (based on a German medieval legend): Prince Siegfried fall in love with Odette, turned into a swan by Rothbart, an evil sorcerer; Rothbart tricked Prince into the marriage proposal to his daughter, Odile (the Black Swan), who resembles Odette; finally, Prince conquered Rothbart to liberate his beloved Odette. Though it is not clear what lake inspired the composer for this masterpiece, it could be the swan lake near the town of Fussen (Germany).

Now let’s look at the exhibit dedicated to Tchaikovsky’s last ballet, “The Nutcracker”: in the display case there is the clavier with the composer’s inscriptions. While listening to this fascinating music, it is difficult to imagine how hard was this composition for Tchaikovsky. He even disliked the libretto based on the fairy tale “The Nutcracker and the King of the Mice” by E. T. A. Hoffmann. Tchaikovsky complained, “While composing the ballet, I noticed my inspiration was tailing off.” [8] To complicate the matter, Marius Petipa, the choreographer, posed a challenge to Tchaikovsky: create for the Sugar Plum Fairy the music that would sound like drops of water from the fountain. The composer went on his tour in America, still trying to work on the ballet. On his way back, in Paris, he saw a new musical instrument, the celesta, which resembled a little piano and sounded like bells. This was the perfect instrument to play the music of the Sugar Plum Fairy! Tchaikovsky asked his publisher to buy the celesta and admonished him, “No one besides myself should hear the sounds of this wonderful instrument before it’s played in my works, where it will be used for the first time … Besides this, the Celesta will play a large role in my new ballet.” [9]

Now we will go to the Theater Square to look at the Maryinsky Theater where “The Nutcracker” was performed for the first time on December 18, 1892. There were rumors in the city that the composer prepared a surprise for the public. When the Sugar Plum Fairy appeared on the stage and began her dance, the audience was stunned by an unknown instrument’s celestial sounds, as though little glass balls dropped on a crystal plate. Such was a glorious debut of the celesta in the ballet. Tchaikovsky, a great admirer of Russian folk tunes, included the Russian dance in the ballet. To describe through music such dwellers of the Kingdom of Sweets as chocolate, coffee, and tea, he created dances based on traditional Spanish, Arabic, and Chinese tunes respectively. The opening night was a great success – even Emperor Alexander III was very pleased and complimented the composer. Regardless of some harsh critique, “The Nutcracker” became a sensation in the musical life of the capital.

Looking forward to future accomplishments, 53-old Tchaikovsky shared with friends, “I feel I shall live a long time.” [10] But six days later the whole country was shocked by his sudden death from cholera. Emperor Alexander III payed for the composer’ funeral which was “so grand and magnificent as only tsars in Russia have been buried.” [11] Tchaikovsky was buried at the most well-known cemetery of St. Petersburg – the Tikhvin Cemetery at the Alexander Nevsky Monastery. The tombstone includes the bust of the composer and figures of two angels: one holds the Orthodox cross, and another weeps over the open book of music. I visited this cemetery many times, in different seasons, and always saw fresh flowers at the tombstone of Tchaikovsky. Truly, the great composer continues to live in hearts of people inspired and enlighten by his music.

My short journey is completed. While following the footsteps of Tchaikovsky, I learn more about him and his music which contributed to making St. Petersburg the cultural capital of Russia. I hope that this journey enriched your knowledge about this great composer and inspired you to visit this splendid musical city!

Footnotes:

[1] Correspondence with Nadezhda von Meck (translation by Tatiana Claudy)

[2] The Life & Letters of Peter Ilich Tchaikovsky by Modest Chaikovskii

[3] V. N. Gerard. Tchaikovsky at the Imperial School of Jurisprudence (translation by Tatiana Claudy)

[4] Aleksey Apukhtin. To Tchaikovsky (translation by Tatiana Claudy)

[5] Correspondence with Aleksandra Davydova. Letter 63

[6] Shteinberg L. P. Memorable meetings (translation by Tatiana Claudy)

[7] Correspondence with Nadezhda von Meck

[8] Correspondence with Modest Tchaikovsky. Letter 4425

[9] Correspondence with Pyotr Jurgenson. Letter 4459

[10] The Life & Letters of Peter Ilich Tchaikovsky by Modest Chaikovskii

[11] Bukinik M. E. October 25, 18293 (translation by Tatiana Claudy)

If You Go:

Visas for Russia – (Most foreigners need visas to visit Russia.)

St. Petersburg State Museum of Theatre and Music

The Tikhvin Cemetery at the Alexander Nevsky Monastery (The cemetery is located across the subway station Alexander Nevsky Square. Adult tickets cost $7 per person. Tchaikovsky’s tombstone is in the 19th century Necropolis.)

Recommended Theaters Performing Tchaikovsky’s ballets and operas:

Recommended Concert Halls Performing Tchaikovsky’s music:

To Learn More about Tchaikovsky:

The Life & Letters of Peter Ilich Tchaikovsky by Modest Chaikovskii
Tchaikovsky (1970) – a Russian movie with English subtitles

About the author:

Tatiana Claudy, originally from St. Petersburg, Russia, lives with her family in the USA. Her passions include writing, traveling, and making photos of fascinating places. As a freelance writer, Tatiana had written for various printed and online publications. Her travel articles had been published on Go Overseas, Matador Network, and My Itchy Travel Feet websites.

All photos by Tatiana Claudy:

Imperial School of Jurisprudence
Mikhailovsky Palace
Clavier for “The Nutcracker” Ballet
Costumes for “The Swan Lake” Ballet
Maryinsky Theater
Tombstone of Tchaikovsky at the Tikhvin Cemetery

May Days in Moscow

by Angela Lapham

I predict May might be a good time to visit Moscow. Not too touristy, not too cold and…

1 May is May Day. International Workers’ Day was a big deal in Soviet Russia. Would it be in today’s Russia?

9 May is Victory Day, the day Germany surrendered to the Allies in WWII. Moscow holds a huge military parade in commemoration.

May Day

As soon as we arrive, we see Victory Day decorations all over the city. Whether anything is planned for May Day, however, remains a mystery. We knew there were big parades in Communist times, but all we can find about the upcoming May Day is an online reference to the parade that took place two years prior. This mentions a midday start. What could we do but head for Red Square and hope for the best?

Oh no! Loads of people are walking away from the city waving Russian flags. Have we missed it?

No one appears to be dismantling the fence barrier though. In fact, people, including police, are standing alongside it. Is more planned?

The crowd keeps growing.

An hour later we’re glad we stuck around.

The parade isn’t inside Red Square but in front of it. Nevertheless, just like the Soviet-era, it’s big, red, and full of Lenin and hammer & sickle flags. Marchers are all ages, though predominantly older – presumably carrying the tradition on from their youth.

What’s new is that they also clutch banners calling for revolution and an end to government corruption. Some get so passionate they come right up to the fence we’re standing behind to vocalize their demands. I’m comforted to see the police tolerating it all.

The parade concludes with marchers and onlookers gathering in front of a temporary stage, fittingly parked beside Karl Marx’s statue – now a platform for roaring speeches and the Communist anthem ‘The Internationale.’ There’s even an operatically-trained choir to lead.

On the ground lie blankets from which the more enterprising communists hawk antique Soviet-era brooches, illustrated children’s books on Lenin, and other reasonably priced, authentic souvenirs. Curious to see how the day had been covered on the news, that night we watch ‘Russia Today,’ the Russian international news channel. We discover that the crowd we’d seen leaving the city that morning had also been at a May Day parade: a pro-government, nationalist celebration of workers’ rights at Red Square. Notably, the first May Day parade held at Red Square since 1992 took place in 2014 – the year Russia took over Crimea. Likewise, it wasn’t until 1996 that the Victory Day parade came to be held annually, and 2008 that it included military vehicles. Before then, Victory Day parades only occurred in 1965, 1985 and 1990.

Victory Day

If Putin’s aim was to bring people together under what was arguably Russia’s greatest achievement – the winning of WWII for the allies – it worked! Millions are out. Many are wearing military fashions and the orange and black striped St Georges ribbon, which in 1769 became the highest military decoration of Imperial Russia. They carry red carnations to give out to veterans and lay at memorials, as well as these great professionally made signs displaying photos and short bios of family members that served. Much more informative than our practice of simply wearing their medals! Children dress in khaki uniform; toddlers pedal around in toy tanks.

Throughout the city, concerts entertain and projectors show war footage. Many pay their respects at the war memorial at Park Pobedy (pobedy meaning victory) and the co-located Museum of the Great Patriotic War, which offers free entry today. In the museum, people are keenly engaging with the exhibits, school choirs are busy warming hearts, and men are having their photos taken with Stalin’s statue.

As for the Victory Day parade itself…

We didn’t secure a position early enough to see it on the day. Not that we minded – it was still great to be amongst it. Plus, we’d already seen it. Twice! Attending full-scale rehearsals on the 3rd and 6th. While these also attract crowds, they’re not so well attended as to obscure your view.

Each rehearsal requires the city center to be completely blocked off. Tanks, missile systems, armored and combat vehicles are all lined up ready to go, remaining stationary for 1-2 hours during which time you can take photos. Surreal. Wait until you see them powering down the street! The strong scent of kerosene in the air…the thunder of engines…

The grand finale is the jets overhead: red, white and blue smoke trailing behind them resembling the stripes of the Russian flag. That gets the previously austere, silent crowd clapping and cheering!

Whether or not you’re against killing machines forming the centerpiece of a parade, if you enjoy travelling as a sort of journalism, you’ll be eternally grateful for that first week and a half in May.

27 April to 9 May also sees the staging of the annual A Cappella Festival. Walking through the city, we’re treated to many free performances, both traditional and modern.

If You Go:

Moscow is awash with free/extraordinarily cheap activities, all of which provide fascinating insights into Russian culture, history and society.

City Bus or Car Tour to Incredible Moscow

Lenin

See the embalmed leader of the Bolshevik Revolution and first leader of the USSR. (NOTE: the mausoleum closes late April and doesn’t reopen until just after mid-May. Usual opening hours are 10am-1pm Tue, Wed, Thu, Sat, Sun).

Metro

Spend hours admiring the world’s most beautiful metro stations, for less than $1:

Though not as extravagant as the Soviet-era stations, new stations, i.e. Dostoevskaya, continue to be works of art.

Get a good overview of Moscow by riding the entire circle of the new Central Circle line linking all its outer suburbs. This Western European-style train will cost you less than $1 (including a metro transfer!).

Parks

Hang out in some of Moscow’s ninety six stunning parks where you’ll enjoy free concerts from purpose-built stages, fountains choreographed to classical music, statues of famous Russians, and art exhibition spaces. Gorky Park is a must.

Russian State Library (one of the five great libraries of the world).

Enjoy statues of Russian writers and Soviet citizens, and a front door sign that still reads ‘CCCP Lenin Library.’

Wander through old-fashioned reading rooms, each with their own specialized collection and typically a painting of Lenin on the wall (Open Mon to Sat 9am to 8pm EXCEPT the last Monday of the month).

Perhaps because Russians are the second biggest readers in the world (after China), Moscow also has an unusually high number of large and lively bookshops. At the very least, go for the atmosphere!

Private Moscow Walking Tour: Life in the Soviet Times

Panoramic view

Look out over Moscow from the observation deck of the 7th Floor of the Central Children’s Store (Lubyanka Square, near Red Square). Historic buildings within view are described in English. Enter through the excellent free museum showcasing toys sold in the Soviet-era.

The world’s largest mechanical clock also resides here, as does a ‘Lego store’ filled with Lego constructions of the Kremlin, Bolshoi Theatre, and Russian countryside.

Museums

State Central Museum of Contemporary Russian History

GULAG History Museum

Art Deco Museum

Tsarist-era luxury Shopping

GUM (Red Square). Built in the 19th century, this elegant arcade of shops was a department store during Soviet times.

Yeliseyevsky Gastronom (Tverskaya Street). Architecturally beautiful gourmet supermarket.

Gastronomic tour in Moscow

Soviet Exhibition grounds & Cosmonaut Memorial

Take the metro to Station VDNKh (acronym for ‘Exhibition of Achievements of National Economy’). In Soviet times, the 130m squared grounds hosted more than 300 national and international exhibitions a year. Now largely a recreation space, on weekends its people-watching heaven.

The colossal size of the grounds, numerous tall Corinthian-columned pavilions – several of which carry the names of countries of the former USSR, and glistening gold Friendship of Nations fountain fill me with the kind of excitement I imagine a child gets when they see Disneyland for the first time. Pavillions ‘Belarus’ and ‘Armenia’ continue to sell their nation’s produce, and Armenia has a fancy but inexpensive restaurant. The giant statue of ‘Worker and Kolkhoz Woman’, sculpted for the 1937 International Trade Show in Paris can be seen over 1 km away.

Next door you can marvel at the similarly extraordinary 107m high ‘Lenin and the workers’ cosmonaut memorial. The cosmonaut museum underneath is also worth visiting (Open 10-7pm every day EXCEPT Mon. Thurs until 9pm).

Amazing Tour to Mosquarium Space Museum of Cosmonautics and VDKH in Moscow Russia

About the author:

Angela is a Melbourne-based librarian and history graduate fascinated with Eastern Europe and different cultures and histories in general. Every few years it’s time to take off to Europe for another lengthy adventure.

Photos by Angela Lapham

Peterhof, World’s Capitol of Fountains

by Tatiana Claudy

Is there a place that can compete with Versailles – and maybe win this competition? I believe it is Peterhof (“Peter’s yard” in Dutch) in Russia. Tsar Peter the Great, after visiting Versailles, was inspired to construct a similar park in Russia. He chose Peterhof which is situated about 30 km from Saint Petersburg and near the Gulf of Finland. To create a unique ensemble of parks, gardens, palaces, pavilions, and fountains, Tsar Peter invited Alexander Le Blond from France. Peterhof was initially designed as a summer residence of Peter the Great, but later was turned by Catherine the Great into one of the most famous royal summer residences in Europe.

On a warm summer day I arrived to Peterhof by bus and entered the gates near the Grand Palace, “The Russian Versailles,” designed in the Petrine Baroque style. Immediately I heard the noise of water – and a minute later I stood in awe of the Grand Cascade. Being one of the world’s largest fountains, the Grand Cascade consists of 75 fountains, 255 gilded bronze sculptures, two grottoes, and three waterfall stairs. Its design was inspired by a fountain erected near Chвteau de Marly in France. Tsar Peter, being proud of his park near the sea, ordered to build a canal from the Gulf of Finland to the Grand Palace. Thus, the terrace in front of the Grand Palace is the best spot to admire the Grand Cascade and the panorama of the Gulf of Finland. I think that Fyodor Tyutchev (Russian poet) gave one of the best descriptions of this exceptional place:

The Nature feasts beside the sea,
The fountains splash among the flowers,
The garden breathes dreamy calm. [1]

While I was admiring this view, I thought about the harmony between the nature and the art of numerous sculptors, architects, and gardeners. “Peterhof seemed to be born from the foam of the sea, as if brought to life by the command of a powerful sea king,” wrote Alexandre Benois (Russian artist). [2] I remembered his words as I saw how water drops created a mist around fountains whose forceful streams foamed and roared.

The heart of the Grand Cascade is the celebrated Samson fountain – Samson tears the lion’s mouth from which a single stream of water rises up to 21 meters. These sculptures are installed on the massive stone pedestal decorated with eight dolphins. Samson defeating the lion is an allegory of Russia’s victory over Sweden. Gilded sculptures of Samson and the lion look so naturally in the center of the Grand Cascade that it is impossible to imagine here anything else. However, Tsar Peter wanted next to his new summer residence a fountain with a sculpture of Hercules defeating the Lernaean Hydra. After Tsar Peter’s death, the Samson fountain was constructed according to the design of Carlo Rossi, an Italian architect.

I descended the stairs to enter the Lower Park and observe the Samson fountain from a different angle. There were crowds of people making photos of the Grand Cascade, so I had to squeeze into a spot from which I could have a better view at the fountain. I noticed several men and women dressed in costumes of Tsar Peter’s era – they were royalty impersonators who offered tourists to take their photos in the company of a “tsar” or a “tsarina.” Sure enough, these “royalties” enhanced the charm of this place!

As I walked through the Lower Park, I could not stop admiring abundance of flowers. Petunias, marigolds, roses, fuchsias, and begonias were planted to create picturesque patterns on the lawns, while pyramidal trimmed little trees strengthened the likeness of this park to Versailles. Tsar Peter himself chose trees (e.g., maples and tilias) for this park and even ordered some of them abroad, for instance, apple trees from Prussia.

My next stop was at the Roman fountains which resemble two fountains in Rome (on the square in front of the Cathedral of St. Peter). Each of these gorgeous 10 meter tall twin-fountains consists of two flat stone bowls. Streams of water rise up, then fall on surfaces of upper and lower bowls, and finally flow into the pool at the fountain’s base. Due to this design, the Roman fountains look like being covered by the shimmering veil of water.

Gavriil Derzhavin, whom contemporaries called “the greatest living Russian poet of the 18th century,” described Peterhof as a place “where art and nature have a competition.” [3] No doubts, the Roman fountains and their lawns proved the truthfulness of these words!

Across the Roman fountains I observed another jewel of Peterhof – the Chess Mount Cascade consisting of four slopes designed like huge chessboards. This cascade, created on a natural slope, is also called the Dragon Mountain because three dragons guard the entrance in the upper grotto. Streams of water run out of the mouths of dragons, slide along the four slopes, and finally fall like a curtain to close the lower grotto’s entrance. By the sides of the Chess Mount Cascade there are two stairways decorated by ten marble sculptures representing ancient Roman gods. Additionally, like all statues in Peterhof, these sculptures also symbolize Russia’s prosperity and sea victories.

The square between the Roman fountains and the Chess Mount Cascade is the biggest in the park. From here depart little trains that visitors, tired from long walks, can use to have a 30-minutes long tour on the wheels. Yet I continued my journey on foot through the capital of fountains in the direction of the Gulf of Finland.

Now I approached my final destination – the Monplaisir Palace (“my pleasure” in French): Tsar Peter himself made drawings for its layout, and several architects, including Alexander Le Blond, implemented his vision. To reach the palace, I walked through a lovely garden adorned by fountains and statues. The gardeners made a little masterpiece of trimmed bushes and flowerbeds. By the way, Tsar Peter also drew the plan of this garden and chose its plants. The Monplaisir Palace, one-story long red building, does not produce an impression of the Russian Emperor’s dwelling place. However, it was the favorite palace of Tsar Peter who chose this building’s location, a few yards from the Gulf of Finland, to be able to arrive here by boat. The palace’s design is simple: two galleries adjoin the central part covered with a hipped roof. Yet this building is a fine example of architecture of the first quarter of the 18th century. No wonder that Gavriil Derzhavin praised the Monplaisir Palace in these lines:

To learn about Eden – come and see
Tsar Peter’s charming house by the sea!” [4]

Tsar Peter opened in the Monplaisir Palace the first Russian picture gallery: he bought a collection of European paintings and used them to beautify his cherished mansion. Many rooms in the palace are also embellished with tapestries, glass and porcelain dishes, and Dutch porcelain tile. Tsar Peter often visited the Monplaisir Palace to meet with foreign ambassadors or have official assemblies of his court. According to French ambassador Kampredon, “The rooms in Monplaisir are small, but very comfortable.” [5]

My favorite room in the palace was the Chinese Lacquer Cabinet. Unfortunately, visitors are only allowed to pass through the cabinet, without stopping there; so, I observed details of its dйcor from an adjoining room. The most important element in the cabinet’s interior decoration is eleven vertical black lacquer panels depicting scenes from the life of Chinese people. Additionally, the room is ornamented by 129 gilded shelves of different sizes and shapes (e.g. shells or leaves).

Another fascinating room, in my view, was the kitchen decorated with 3,000 pieces of tile, and each piece of tile had a picture: a landscape, seascape, or flower. The kitchen dishwasher received running water coming through the pipe from one of the fountains in front of the palace; later used water was disposed (also through pipes) into the Gulf of Finland. Such kitchen was very modern for the beginning of the 18th century!

I left the palace and walked around it to come to the sea terrace. As everywhere in the parks of Peterhof, there are marble sculptures, flowers, trees, and trimmed bushes. I leaned on the white balustrade to admire the view of Saint Petersburg in the distance, the fly of seagulls, and running waves of the Gulf of Finland. After observing for a while this vast sea surface, I had an amazing feeling of peace and freedom. No wonder that Tsar Peter loved this place!

Before leaving this fantastic park, I looked back at the Grand Cascade and remembered words of Russian poet Pyotr Vyazemsky:

While Peterhof tells ancient stories,
It still remains forever young!” [6]

I hope that you enjoyed this little journey with me. Sure, there is much more to see in Peterhof because I limited my walk only to one park and one palace. So, put Peterhof on your travel list and come to discover more wonders of the world’s capital of fountains!

Footnotes:

[1] Poets about Peterhof. Fyodor Tyutchev (translation by Tatiana Claudy)

[2] The Lower Park of Peterhof. (translation by Tatiana Claudy)

[3] Poets about Peterhof. Gavriil Derzhavin (translation by Tatiana Claudy)

[4] Poets about Peterhof. Gavriil Derzhavin (translation by Tatiana Claudy)

[5] Palaces of Peter I. Monplaisir (translation by Tatiana Claudy)

[6] Poets about Peterhof. Prince Pyotr Vyazemsky (translation by Tatiana Claudy)

If You Go:

Visas for Russia (Most foreigners need visas to visit Russia.)

How to Get to Peterhof

Visiting Peterhof

Peterhof

Monplaisir

Peterhof Fountain Parks and Grand Cascade Grottos Tour

About the author:

Tatiana Claudy lives in Indiana, but she is originally from Saint Petersburg, Russia. She loves to travel and write about her journeys. Her travel articles have been published on Go Overseas and My Itchy Travel Feet sites.

Tour of Pushkin Catherine Palace and Peterhof Grand Palace (Visas Included)

All photos by Tatiana Claudy

The Grand Cascade with the Samson fountain
The Roman fountains
The Chess Mount Cascade
The Monplaisir Palace and the Monplaisir Park
The Chinese Lacquer cabinet in the Monplaisir Palace
The view at the Gulf of Finland from the Monplaisir Palace’s terrace

Private Half Day Excursion to Peterhof Palace from St Petersburg

Saint Petersburg, Russia: The Window to Europe

by Tatiana Claudy

“Saint Petersburg is a window through which Russia looks at Europe,” stated Francesco Algarotti, a Venetian poet. [1] Fyodor Dostoyevsky called this city “the most intentional town” because Peter the Great, the Russian monarch, ordered it to be built on a swampy terrain in the delta of the Neva River to guard Russia from its adversaries – Swedish King Karl XII and his mighty navy. [2] The time will come when for its richness, splendor, and sophistication the city will be called “the Northern Palmyra,” and numerous visitors will admire grandeur of the capital of the Russian Empire. Yet sometimes the city’s first buildings, constructed the 18th century, are overshadowed by more magnificent palaces of the 19th century. Today I am going to visit these first buildings – the architectural marvels and silent witnesses of the early history of the city.

The foundation of Saint Petersburg is enveloped in legends. According to one, on May 16, 1703, Tsar Peter surveyed the Hair Island and pronounced: “Here the city will be built!” Suddenly an eagle flew above his head, and this has been considered a good omen. According to another legend, at first wooden gates have been constructed, and an eagle descended on them. Tsar Peter took the eagle in his hands and walked through the gates of his newly-founded city.

The first building of the new city was Peter the Great’s cabin put up by soldiers in three days on the banks of the Neva River. This construction does not resemble a royal residence – it is a one-story wooden house built from square beams, painted red and designed to imitate a brick wall, according to a Dutch architectural style. Its four-slope green roof has been originally decorated with a wooden model of a mortar to show that the house belonged to a military man. I visited this palace, one of the smallest in the world (12 meters long, 5,5 meters wide, and 2,72 meters high), and was amazed to see the humble dwelling of a Russian tsar. The cabin itself is off-limits for tourists, but they can peek through barred windows to see two main rooms – Tsar Peter’s study and the dining room.

In the center of the study, there is a massive oak table with a carved chess-board (Tsar Peter loved to play chess and checkers). On the table, there is a pipe belonged to the tsar, a brass candleholder for three candles, a brass inc-pot, and a map. On the wall, we can see Peter the Great’s portrait representing him at the time when he started to build a new capital. Another interesting object is the chair made from pear-tree wood by Peter the Great who was a skilful carpenter. The cabin has no heating because it was designed as a summer dwelling. Tsar Peter lived there for several weeks before his departure for the Northern War and, upon his return, a stone palace was built for him (Winter Palace). To protect the cabin from the elements, a case has been constructed around it. Today, inside this case, tourists can see not only the cabin, but also “the grand-father” of the Russian navy – a wooden boat made by Tsar Peter. The cabin was not only the first house and first palace erected in the new city – it became one of the first Russian museums when Peter the Great signed an order to preserve it for the posterity.

While the original building of Tsar Peter’s Winter Palace does not exist anymore, his Summer Palace has been restored and turned into a museum. In 1710, Domenico Trezzini (an Italian architect) created this royal residence according to the Petrine Baroque architectural style. This two-story building resembles a Dutch nobility house of the 18th century –windows are divided into squares and outer walls are adorned by 29 bas-reliefs with allegoric scenes glorifying the Russian navy and its victories. The palace stands on the bank of the Fountanka River, and guests of the tsar arrived by boats. The royal family lived here from May till October. The palace’s collection includes many genuine items, for instance, Tsar Peter’s watch with a compass and the quilt made by his wife, Catherine (future Empress Catherine I). I believe that the most interesting room is Tsar Peter’s workshop: being skilful in14 trades, he daily worked with a turning lather. The workshop was Tsar Peter’s favorite room, and only selected people had an honor to meet with the tsar there. The Summer Palace is located in one of the most romantic places of Saint Petersburg, the Summer Garden, designed to resemble the Versailles and decorated with marble sculptures, fountains, flower beds, and pavilions.

Now I am going to the Basil Island to visit the first stone building of Saint Petersburg, the Menshikov Palace, designed by Francesco Fontana (an Italian architect) according to the traditions of the Petrine Baroque style. This three-story mansion was the residence of Prince Menshikov –a close friend of Peter the Great and first governor of Saint Petersburg. Since Tsar Peter did not have his own official residence, he often used the Menshikov Palace (especially the Assembly Hall) to celebrate royal weddings (the wedding of his son Prince Aleksey and the wedding of his niece Princess Anna, the future Russian Empress Anna Ioanovna) and meet with foreign ambassadors. Above all, Peter the Great used this palace to persistently promote European culture during parties called “assembles.” Since 1718, under Tsar Peter’s order, assemblies were obligatory for nobility, including noble women for whom assemblies became first opportunities to leave their homes and attend social gatherings. At assemblies, participants demonstrated their skills in European manners, dancing, music, and the art of conversation. Here is a description of a ceremonial dance at an assembly: “Along the entire length of the ballroom, to the sound of the most melancholy music, ladies and gentlemen stood in two rows facing each other; the gentlemen bowed low; the ladies curtsied even lower, first to the front, then to the right, then to the left, to the front again, to the right again and so on.” [3]

This palace, decorated with tapestries, Chinese lacquer cabinets, and marble sculptures, was also one of the richest in Europe in the 18th century. It took me about two hours to see its numerous rooms.

In my opinion, the most fascinating are four rooms whose walls and ceilings are completely decorated with Dutch porcelain tile (about 28,000 pieces). These rooms are unique and can be seen only in the Menshikov Palace. Dutch porcelain tile was very expensive: even in Holland, where it has been produced, this tile was used to decorate only panels. Yet in the Menshikov Palace there are even several stoves decorated with Dutch tile. Peter the Great was very pleased with the luxury of the Menshikov Palace because he considered this building and its interiors to be a proof that new Russia was in no way inferior to any European country.

As many monarchs of the 18th century, Peter the Great was interested in curious objects and collected them. In 1718, he ordered that if anybody finds unusual stones or bones, old inscriptions on stones, and other ancient and extraordinary items, this person had to take findings to the city’s commandant. To keep these exhibits, Tsar Peter founded the first museum of natural history and culture, Kunstkamera (German “art chamber”). There is a legend about how Peter the Great had chosen the location for the future museum: he noticed an unusually growing tree and decided to build on this place a museum of curious objects. The building is the oldest edifice in the world constructed especially to house a museum collection: designed according to the Petrine Baroque style, it has in the middle the tower decorated with a sphere. To attract people to the museum, Tsar Peter ordered to give every visitor a glass of wine and a free cup of coffee (a new and exotic drink in Russia in the 18th century). At those times, the museum has been one of the best in Europe, with free entrance for everybody. Today the museum is one of the most interesting in Saint Petersburg: tourists can see not only Tsar Peter’s collection, but other unique objects, for instance, the collection of artifacts brought by Miklouho-Maclay, Russian explorer, from New Guinea.

Tsar Peter has dedicated his life to transforming old Russia and opening new horizons for Russian people. In his letter to Anne, Queen of England, he wrote: “I do not labor to wring out Russia from Russia, but to strengthen and uplift it in itself.” [4] Alexander Pushkin, the great Russian poet, wrote about Tsar Peter’s vision:

Here a great city will be wrought…
Here, by the new for them sea-paths,
Ships of all flags will come to us –
And on all seas our great feast opens.[5]

I hope that my today’s historical journey will help visitors to learn more about the early history and first buildings of Saint Petersburg – “the window to Europe.”

Footnotes:

[1] Serov V. Encyclopedic Dictionary of Idiomatic Words and Expressions. Letter “O.” (translation by Tatiana Claudy)

[2] Dostoyevsky, F.M. Notes from the Underground. Part I, chapter II. Project Gutenberg.

[3] Pushkin A. S. The Negro of Peter the Great.

[4] Miller O. F. On Attitudes of Russian Literature to Peter the Great. (Russian Edition). (translation by Tatiana Claudy)

[5]Pushkin A. S. The Bronze Horseman. Poetry Lovers Page

If You Go:

Visas for Russia – Most foreigners need visas to visit Russia.)

The Cabin of Peter the Great (Petrovskaya Embankment, 6. Metro station — Gorkovskaya. Adult ticket $4)

The Summer Palace of Peter the Great – (The palace is currently closed for reconstruction.)

Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography (the Kunstkamera) (Universitetskaya Embankment, 3. Adult ticket $6)

The Menshikov Palace (Universitetskaya Embankment, 15. Adult ticket $6)

About the author:
Tatiana Claudy is originally from St. Petersburg, Russia, but she lives with her family in the USA. Her passions include literature, art, music, languages, and photography. During her travels she loves to explore historical sites and take literary journeys. She is a freelance writer and an aspiring mystery writer.

All photos by Tatiana Claudy

The Kunstkamera
The Cabin of Peter the Great
The Study of Peter the Great in the Cabin
The Summer Palace of Peter the Great
The Menshikov Palace
The Sea Study