Middle East Travel

About the Iranian New Year

The Fires of My Childhood

by Reza Khodamehri

If you ask an Iranian, how was the Festival of Fire in your childhood, he may answer you, I loved it, I loved to play with the fire, to jump over it, to measure myself with the other children, who could jump higher and wider and to stay awake all night long. I remember many years ago when I was a little boy we just had the fire and firecrackers were a rarity. But one day my friend gave me one firecracker, proud and full of anticipation, what would happened now, I ran through the streets of our neighborhood, searching for a suitable place. As it was the custom, people were sleeping in the afternoon to become fresh for the rest of the working day.

The street close to our house seemed to be the right place. I ignited the firecracker and through it against a house wall. The bang was gigantic. Probably Teheran only heard such a bang in times of war.

I was very surprised and my heart was beating faster of joy at the sudden bang. Carefully I looked to the left and right, everywhere people were standing still and looking at me. I got frightened because I was thinking, people would hit me in anger over their disturb siesta. As fast as I could I ran back home.

But until now, I remember this story, the bang was too beautiful, that I could never forget it.”

Today Teheran is a long lasting bang, which doesn’t allow any siesta and wakes up all sleepers from their dreams. Thanks to Chinese imports firecrackers are available in every imaginable way and especially children and young people love to play with the fireworks. Parents watching this with worry since there are serious burns every year due to improper use of firecrackers, despite warnings in television. But in this night no child can be kept at home and all adults have to go out to attend this spectacle.

Many different colors are painting the sky. In the Night of Fire Teheran is like a colorful explosion and everything which has no valve otherwise, is going of, young men are in the streets dancing to Persian rhythms, the whole neighborhood gathers and everybody, having legs, is jumping over the fires, which can be found in the whole city.

The jump over the fire has a long tradition in Iran and the fire is attributing a purifying effect, with the jump all sicknesses and problems are offered to the fire and in doing so, people are singing zardi-ye man az toh, sorkhi-ye toh az ma, which means, the yellowish is yours and the reddish is mine. The yellow color symbolizes all the bad things, which people might have collected in the old year and the red color stands for the warmth and energy the fire can give.

The Festival of Fire or also named as Chahar Shanbeh Suri, is celebrated at the last Wednesday before Iranian New Year, which starts with our beginning of spring. This tradition is a kind of preparation for the New Year and it refers to a thousand year old tradition. Already Friedrich Nietzsche was writing about these old custom in his famous book Thus Spoke Zarathustra.

Later on, frozen from the cold night, after the firework has been finished, rice pudding with hot cherries will be served in the warm and cozy Persian house. Every family is sitting together, from time to time it is banging outside and slowly the city and its mountains are covered by a veil of smoke. Some lights are burning through the dust and from time to time all lights are going out until all houses became dark and only the streetlights are burning and the streets really seemed to be empty.Tonight many dreams are rising into heaven these are the dreams of the children’s souls, dreaming of lightening fire and colorful and loud fireworks.

About the Persian New Year:

What is Persian New Year All About?
Nowruz – Persian New Year
Persian New Year Dates

About the author:
Reza Khoudamehri is an Iranian journalist, film maker and photographer. www.khodamehri.com

Photo credits:
ČAHĀRŠANBA-SŪRĪ courtesy of Tasnim News Agency / CC BY
Other photo by Reza Khoudamehri

Jordan: Petra by Horse, Mule and Donkey

by Elizabeth von Pier

It is early morning and the sun is casting shadows on the monumental canyon walls leading into the Siq, a half-mile narrow passage used to enter and exit the “rose city” of Petra in the Kingdom of Jordan. Except for our Bedouin guide Zaid and the horses we are riding, we are here alone at this lovely time of day. The tourists have not yet arrived and we have Petra to ourselves, at least for a short while.

The horses’ footsteps echo off the walls of the red sandstone cliffs towering above us. The path is only a few feet wide between these sheer canyon walls which get higher and closer as you approach the Siq. The sun doesn’t shine here and not much grows. High up you may see some fig trees or oleander clinging to the brown, white, red and ochre walls. It seems almost sacrilegious to break the silence with spoken words.

After fifteen minutes, we get off the horses and start our walk along the gritty road, admiring the incredible sights on both sides of us. Petra is more than 2,000 years old and has some magnificent and amazingly well-preserved buildings that were hand-carved by the Nabataean people, an Arab tribe who ruled this area for hundreds of years starting as early as the sixth century B.C. The Nabataeans were also known for their water management systems which channeled in a water supply for the inhabitants. We pass the dam that they built and which was rebuilt and reinforced in 1964 to divert the flash floods that sometimes hit the canyons. We pass some hand-carved ancient script and the weathered figure of a camel caravan, the method of moving goods along the trade routes running east to west from Yemen to the Mediterranean Sea. The best is yet to come.

Al-Khazneh, the “Treasury”

The Siq becomes narrower and then opens up slowly to reveal the crowning jewel of Petra, the famous al-Khazneh, or Treasury. The pathway we are on and the canyon walls towering over us are in dark shade, but through the narrow opening we can see the morning sun brilliantly shining off the pink sandstone of al-Khazneh. It is an awe-inspiring moment of revelation and mid-morning is the perfect time of day to experience it.

The facade of al-Khazneh is more than 130 feet high, made of fine red sandstone and adorned with Corinthian columns, bands decorated with goddesses and deities, women warriors, eagles, ears of corn, and botanical motifs. The side panels are carved with figures of Castor and Pollux who lead the horses to heaven; to the right and left of the six central columns you can see their “footprints” climbing straight up to the sky (or maybe these are simply imprints from the scaffolding used during construction). According to Bedouin beliefs, the urn at the top contains the Pharaoh’s treasure.

We are not sure if at the time this was a temple or a tomb, but today it stands, a magnificent building carved into the rock more than 2,000 years ago and in remarkable condition, protected by the mountains from wind and erosion. Camels rest in the courtyard in front of the Treasury, and on the opposite wall Bedouin men have set up tables to sell trinkets to the tourists they hope will soon come along.

The Street of Facades, the Amphitheater, and the Royal Tombs

Beyond al-Khazneh, we enter the Street of Facades, named for its many facades in the Assyrian style and believed to be tombs for ordinary people because of their small size and minimal decoration. Next, carved into a stone hill, is an impressive amphitheater which seats 7,000 to 10,000 people. And then there are the Royal Tombs, four adjoining facades on the right side of the central route through the city. One of the tombs features a grand five-story facade, another is made up of candy swirls of colored rock, and yet another has a jar crowning one of the pediments. Elements of Nabataean and classical architectural styles are evident here. Dotting the hills on the opposite side of the road are hundreds of cave openings which likely were used as shelter.

We are discovering that Petra is huge. It is spread over 100 square miles in the mountains and valleys of Ma’an Governate, about 150 miles south of the capital, Amman. Although you could easily spend a week hiking and exploring the site, we find that the main attractions are on an eighteen-mile route between the Siq and Ad-Dayr, the Monastery, near the top of the mountain. With the help of horses, mules and donkeys, we are able to manage it all in one day.

Ad-Dayr, the “Monastery”

There are 900 stone steps that you have to climb to reach the Monastery—or alternatively, you can hire a Bedouin and his mule to transport you up the steep incline. We decide to take the mule up, and walk back down. I’m pretty sure this is a good decision after seeing the faces of the people who decided to make the climb on their own power. But even with the mule it is not easy. I am not able to hoist myself onto the animal so the strong Bedouin man physically picks me up and deposits me into a saddle made of soft carpets and blankets, almost as though I am featherweight. It is a steep incline, the steps are worn to a shiny luster and look slippery, and there are sharp drop offs into the ravines far below. The mule climbs dangerously close to the edge, and it takes a fair amount of balance and stamina to ride him. We quickly learn that you must lean forward when climbing up, and backwards when going down. My guide tells me I am a good rider and stays close to my sister, who he says needs help.

After what seems like an interminable ride, we finally arrive at the top and the Monastery is only a few steps away. At a quick glance, it looks a lot like the Treasury and is equally well-preserved, but the Monastery is much larger. It dates from the third century B.C. and was modeled on the Treasury, but it has niches to house sculptures where the Treasury has bas-reliefs. It too has a columned portico and the space inside was used for religious meetings; the hall was later re-used as a Christian chapel and that is how the structure got its name.

On a small hill overlooking the Monastery is a “rest-stop” which offers padded benches and refreshments to tired tourists. Further along is a commanding view of the surrounding hills (jabals) and valleys (wadis) of the Jordanian countryside. It’s a great view and I suspect is just as good as that from the shack farther up on the mountain peak with the Jordanian flag and hand-lettered sign claiming “Best View”.

We walk back down from the Monastery, passing weary tourists who are finishing their climb up without the help of a mule. We reassure them that they are not far from the top. It is a very interesting walk back, a peek into Bedouin life as it once was here in Petra. Unlike our trip up when we were riding the mules and didn’t dare glance around, now that our feet are planted on “terra firma”, we are able to enjoy the awe-inspiring sights, the beautiful blue sky, and the clear mountain air.

The Bedouin

The Bedouin serve as our guides in Petra, but they no longer live here. Prior to 1985 when Petra was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, they lived a nomadic life in the caves we have been passing, or in tents set up against the canyon walls. Here they would raise sheep and goats and had no electricity, running water or sanitation. They rose with the sun and slept when it was dark. They wove their own material, cooked over fire, ate what they grew or raised or could buy in local markets, and lit their way with kerosene lanterns. Since Petra is now a protected national park, the Bedouin who chose to stay now live in a settlement in Petra’s quarry site, Um Saihoun. They live in concrete and brick cubes that provide what they describe as a “more civilized” way of life and they come to the national park to cater to the tourist trade. They are content with their lives.

The men wear mendeels on their heads and long gowns called thaubs, and they capitalize on Petra’s tourist trade by selling trinkets or rides on their camels, horses, mules and donkeys. If they are lucky to have a son, the father will conduct the negotiations with the tourists and the son will lead the animal along the agreed-upon route.

The women sell souvenirs and scarves from stalls clinging to the mountainside. These women are very aggressive entrepreneurs. Even a glance in their direction solicits cries of “good price”, “only for you, madame”, and “it doesn’t hurt to look”. If you do pause to look, you are offered a glass of hot sugary tea served in tiny gold-rimmed glasses; this ensures that you will stay a bit longer and hopefully buy something. Nothing is marked with a price and I suspect it will get cheaper as the day wears on.

What Happened to Petra?

The demise of Petra from its beginnings in the sixth century B.C. is not totally clear but it is known that, after the Romans took control in A.D. 106, it started to decline as Rome opened up new trade routes and moved its colonial capital to Bostra, about 165 miles north of Petra in present-day Syria. There also were earthquakes in this area and a particularly violent event was recorded in A.D. 363. Petra was always known to the Bedouin who lived there, but to the western world it was for centuries a forgotten outpost that became known as the “lost city”. In 1812, it was re-discovered by Swiss explorer Johann Burckhardt who rode into the city disguised as a Muslim holy man and opened up this part of the world to us.

In 2007, Petra was named amongst the New Seven Wonders of the World. There is no doubt that it should be on everyone’s “bucket list”.

If You Go:

Moevenpick Resort Petra (at the entrance to Petra), 214 Wadi Musa, Petra 71810, Jordan. A substantial breakfast buffet is included with the price of the room.
Rami Ahmaed (tour guide out of Az-Zarqa, a suburb of Amman rumrami@yahoo.com. We highly recommend Rami to take you to see the sights of Jordan. He is dependable, an excellent driver and a knowledgeable guide.

Is it safe? Jordan is surrounded by war-torn countries and has suffered from its own terrorist attacks. And, in light of the recent [DEC. 2017] attack in Kerak, 75 miles south of Amman, the U. S. Department of State warned that tourists “must consider the risks of travel to and throughout the country”. But we felt safe there and found the people to be warm and welcoming. There is a high level of security throughout the country, on the roads and in all hotels, and the tourist police are highly visible. As in many countries in today’s world, tourists should exercise caution and follow the instructions of the local authorities. It is strongly advised to stay away from areas close to the Jordan/Syria border.

Previously published in HACKWRITERS.

Private Tour: Petra and Wadi Rum Day Trip from Amman

About the author:
Elizabeth von Pier loves to travel. After she retired from her lifetime career in banking, she started traveling seriously, photographing the sights she saw, and writing about her experiences. You can find her articles in In the Know Traveler, Go Nomad, Wave Journey, hackwriters.com, travelmag.uk.com, and Travel Thru History.

All photos by Elizabeth von Pier

Coastal Israel and the Time Machine

by Troy Herrick

Using your car as a time machine, travel 200,000 years into the past when you drive along the Mediterranean Coast of Israel between Haifa and Tel Aviv. The sun is shining, the birds are singing and the religious and political tensions in the Middle East seem so far away as you pass through some of the most rugged and photogenic scenery in the country. There is history to be discovered but not all of it is connected to religion. In fact some of it even conflicts with our religious texts.

Nahal Me’arot

Your first stop is Nahal Me’arot and the year is 200,000 BCE. Here you meet three different hominid species and discover five different hunter-gatherer cultures, each distinguished by technological advances in the tools they used.

Nahal Me’arot was not at the center of any creation story. This was no Garden of Eden and it had no connection with the Book of Genesis. Furthermore Adam and Eve appear to have been vegans (Genesis 2:15, 3:17-19, 23) and not the hunter-gatherers that you will find here. Cain tilled the soil and Abel tended the flocks (Genesis 4:4) but none of the past residents of Nahal Me’arot were farmers.

We entered the spacious but gloomy-looking Nahal Cave, one of three caves open to the public (the other two were named Tanur and Garmal). Our journey into the remote past began with a 20 minute video outlining how the local caves were formed by ground water seeping through limestone and the early hominids that called these caves home over the millennia. None of them appeared to be the modern stone-age family known as the Flintstones.

The Tanur Cave had the longest continuous sequence of occupation of the three caves. Two hominid species called this cave home. Homo erectus, which comprised the Acheulean culture, was the oldest hominid species. Their remains were buried within the lowest levels of the 20 meter thick soil deposits forming the floor of this cave. This layer was composed of quartz sand from the Mediterranean Sea. At the time of the Homo erectus occupation, this cave was beach-front property. Sea levels were much higher back then because there was no ice age at that time. The present Mediterranean shoreline is over three kilometers away because the arctic ice pack has still not completely melted from the most recent glacial period that ended 12,000 years ago but mankind is actively working on accelerating this process through global warming.

Homo erectus had mastered the use of fire and utilized a hand-held stone for all of his basic needs including skinning, deboning and digging. Eventually, for reasons unknown, he disappeared from this area after having lived on site from about 200,000 to 150,000 BCE.

The second inhabitants of the Tanur Cave comprised the Muarian culture that arose about 150,000 years ago and lasted for about 50,000 years. It is not known if the Muarian culture was Homo erectus or the newer hominid model known as Homo neanderthalensis (Neanderthal man) but they utilized a greater variety of stone tools than the preceding culture including scrapers and hand axes.

The third owners of this piece of the Tanur Cave were Neanderthals. They comprised the Mousterian culture and they immigrated here 100,000 years ago and called Nahal Me’arot home for about 60,000 years. You can see a Neanderthal exhibit in the Garmal Cave where you find male and female figures dressed in animal skins. The stocky, muscular Neanderthals stretched animal hides out on frames and produced stone spear heads. There were also a number of dug out areas in the ground but it is not clear what these were used for. Contrary to popular opinion the males did not carry clubs over their shoulder.

The Neanderthals possibly thought “there goes the neighborhood” with the arrival of the new residents in the nearby Hagedi Cave. The Hagedi Cave, not open to the public, is remarkable in that it was occupied by our ancestors, the Homo sapiens, about 60,000 years ago. Therefore the Homo sapiens and the Neanderthals appeared to have at least lived side-by-side at Nahal Ne’arot for about 20,000 years.

The Mousterian Neanderthals also settled inside the Nahal Cave until about 40,000 years ago when they were succeeded by Homo sapiens of the Uriniacian culture. The Uriniacian culture lasted from 40,000 to 20,000 years ago and was noted for being the first to use both stone and bone tools.

Remarkably these two species may have done more than just live side-by-side. Perhaps they even shacked up (caved up?) for a time inside the Nahal cave. In 2013 evolutionary geneticists discovered that select modern human populations in Europe and the Middle East carried Neanderthal genes suggesting that at some point interbreeding between the two species had occurred. No evidence of interbreeding has been found at Nahal Me’arot but it certainly appears that they had the opportunity. The Neanderthals eventually became extinct about 30,000 years ago for reasons unknown but you occasionally find one driving on one of our busy roadways or drinking in a bar.

The Nahal cave was abandoned for about 8,000 years before Homo sapiens of the Naturfian Culture set up a village just outside the entrance and settled for about 2,000 years. You will find a Naturfian exhibit just outside the cave with figures and makeshift housing suitable for these hunter-gatherers.

Where did mankind evolved from here? For that answer you may wish to visit ancient Jericho which has its own history going back about 10,000 years but that is a different story. Our destination was south to Caesarea Maritima and a jump forward in time to that of Herod the Great in 9 BCE.

Caesarea Maritima

Herod the Great is most infamous for trying to eliminate the infant Jesus in the Bible (Matthew 2:16-18). At the same time he was also renowned as a prolific builder. All of his projects were built to impress but a number of them were designed with a unique purpose in mind. Masada was constructed as a fortress retreat in case the population revolted. The fortified palace at Herodium contains his tomb and of course there is the second Jewish temple in Jerusalem. The city of Caesarea by the sea (maritima), built between 22 and 9 BCE, was a man-made seaport named in honor of Caesar Augustus.

The smell of fish lingered in our nostrils as we walked towards the shore for a view of this ancient harbour. The breakwater, with occasional waves crashing over top of it, was constructed using special hydraulic cement poured into large empty wooden crates that had been sunken off-shore. The end result was the largest harbour in the ancient eastern Mediterranean, capable of accommodating as many as 300 ships. St. Paul departed from this harbour on two occasions (Acts 9:30 and Acts 27:2). After reviewing the breakwater we started our tour of the ancient city at the Roman temple.

History records that only one of Herod’s parents, his mother, was Jewish. Since he had already constructed the Temple in Jerusalem to satisfy his Jewish roots, he took the opportunity to satisfy his pagan roots by constructing a temple dedicated to Rome and Caesar Augustus at Caesarea Maritima.

The vaulted temple platform and foundations are still visible today but the columned temple was torn down around 400 CE and eventually replaced with an octagonal Byzantine church a century later. You can still see the remains of some of the columns of this structure which also served as a mosque after the Arab conquest in the 8th century CE. Crusaders used this structure as a church in the 13th century CE.

Walking to the far corner of the ancient city you find a Roman theater that is still used today for concerts and shows. Built between 22 and 10 BCE, this theatre seated about 4000 people in 26 rows of seats. The acoustics are so good that I could stand at the top row and hear Diane speak in a normal tone from the stage. The Byzantines closed the theatre in the 5th century CE because of the licentious entertainment being held there. There was no licentious entertainment being performed at the time of our visit however.

Displayed inside the theatre is a stone tablet inscribed with the name Pontius Pilate, Prefect of Judaea. This is the only evidence of the presence of Pontius Pilate in Judaea outside of the Gospels (Matthew 27:11, Mark 15:1, Luke 23:1, John 18:29). The original tablet, found near the theatre, is housed at the Israel Museum in Jerusalem.

According the Roman Historian Flavius Josephus, this theatre was the site where Herod Agrippa died as recorded in the Book of Acts (Acts 12:19-24). Herod Agrippa, grandson of Herod the Great, was the king of Judaea at the time.

A short walk from the theatre, south of the harbor area, you find a promontory jutting out into the sea. Flavius Josephus recorded that a “most magnificent palace” was constructed here by Herod the Great. Now you only find the weathered grayish brown remains of a facility that once had two wings. The upper wing was used for political and administrative functions and the lower one was used for day-to-day family life. The partial remains of a number of upright columns stand guard over a less-than-Olympic-sized swimming pool.

At some point in time after Herod the Great’s death, the Romans moved into the palace and designated it as the Roman Governor’s praetorium. Pontius Pilate was likely installed here at the time of his journey to Jerusalem where he crossed paths with Jesus during the Passover celebration (Matthew 27:11, Mark 15:1, Luke 23:1, John 18:29). The Apostle Paul was also a “guest” here while he awaited his trial in Rome (Acts 23: 33-35, 24:1-27, 25:6-12, 25:26, 26:1-29, 27:1-2).

Steps from the palace, the local Roman population enjoyed Ben Hur-style chariot races and gladiatorial combats on the sandy track at Herod’s Hippodrome. The stadium surrounding the U-shaped track (an oval track at one time) could accommodate over 10,000 people. You may wish to take a few minutes to review the horse racing scenes depicted in frescos and the life-sized metal sculpture featuring two horses and a chariot.

After wandering around the ancient city, exit and check out at the high level aqueduct that runs along the beach from the north. Built by Herod the Great, this weathered yellow-beige limestone structure carried water from the slopes of Mount Carmel approximately 10 kilometers away as Caesarea had no natural source of water in the vicinity. I can almost guarantee that a photograph of this aqueduct, with the backdrop of the sea peaking through the arches, will be one of your most memorable souvenirs of your visit before you travel on to your next destination, whatever that may be. Ours was a drive further south and on to present day Tel Aviv but again that is a different story.

Private Tour: Customized Israel Adventure from Jerusalem Tel Aviv or Haifa

If You Go:

Admission to the Nahal Me’arot Nature Preserve is 22 Shekels. If you are traveling to Nahal Me’arot by rental car, you can use the following directions. Access the site from Road #4 (old Haifa-Tel Aviv road) east at the Faradis-Bet Oren Junction between km. 186 and 187. You can also take Egged bus #921 that travels between Tel Aviv and Haifa.

Caesarea is about 40 km north of Tel Aviv. Admission to Caesarea Harbour National Park was 40 Shekels.

About the author:
Troy Herrick, a freelance travel writer, has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. His articles have appeared in Live Life Travel, International Living, Offbeat Travel and Travels Thru History Magazines.

All photos are by Diane Gagnon, a freelance photographer. She has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. Her photographs have accompanied Troy Herrick’s articles in Live Life Travel, Offbeat Travel and Travel Thru History magazines.

Nahal Me’arot
Garmal Cave – Neanderthal exhibit
Naturfian Cultural Exhibit
Pontius Pilate tablet

Amazing Amman, Jordan: City of Contrasts

by Lindsay Nieminen

Amman, Jordan’s capital city and home to over 4 million of the country’s 9 million people, is characterized by ancient Roman ruins and modernity’s coffeehouses! A city of contrasts, with its ancient origins on display in the heart of the city and among the city’s hilly terrain. Yet, it is no stranger to modern convinces with Samsung stores littered among the narrow winding streets and fast food franchises situated next to typical Jordanian eats.

We started our first morning in Jordan, with a trip the Amman’s highest hill, Jebel al-Qalia, to visit the Citadel. Atop Jebel al-Qalia lies the massive remains of the Hercules temple, built during the reign of Marcus Aurelius in the second century A.D., and the fist of Hercules, the only remaining piece of the estimated 13 meter statue erected at the site, its shattered pieces long since pillaged. There is evidence that the Jebel al-Qalia has been occupied since about 1800 BC due to its strategic location. From the top of the hill, you can see the the Roman Theatre in downtown Amman, cut into the side of a mountain, likely to protect many of the 6000 spectators it could hold, from the sun. Built in the 2nd century A.D. it is an impressive remnant and the most popular attraction in Amman for tourists.

When I say tourists, do not think that you will be among hundreds of onlookers when you explore Amman. The first thing I said to our guide, Awad was “Where are all the people?”

If you are looking for someone to help you plan and/or show you around the country. Get in contact with me and I can pass on Awad’s contact information to you.

In Amman, You will not find thousands of tourists dotted like ants among the relics like you would see in Rome. You may encounter another tour group or other visitors, but for the most part, both the Amman Citadel and the Amman Roman Theatre were quite empty in the morning when we visited them. Tourism in Jordan is suffering due to the instability in the region. But despite the negative media coverage on the Middle East and the two million refugees camped near Jordan’s Northern border, we felt completely safe the entire time in Jordan.

After visiting the theatre, we wandered through the open air markets, with sellers hawking their goods to passers by. The boys were wide-eyed with the commotion of buyers and sellers, with the “Welcome to Jordan,” flashy smiles, and the auctioneer style chants, as sellers compete to gain attention (and well, to make as much noise as possible). It was a busy place, as Jordanians bought fresh fruits, veggies and other wares to take home. While Amman has built modern malls in recent years, and does boast a grocery store to two (one was even a Safeway), a lot of food is still bought from traditional markets or roadside stands.

Navigating Amman’s winding, narrow roads and hilly terrain makes it not a very walkable city. I would suggest you plan your day in advance if you do not have a car and driver. A quick look at the Nymphaeum, a partially preserved Roman public fountain which is currently being restored should be part of your day if time allows. Built in the second century A.D., it was believed this public bath contained a 600 square meter (6450 square feet) pool.

There are plenty of cheap eats in Amman, the local fast-food “shwarma” will cost around 2 JD (just under USD3.00) and consists of delicious slices of lamb or chicken sliced from a revolving spit. We stopped at a local shop after 12 but had to wait for it to open. Some shops seem to set their own hours while others will close briefly for prayer, and reopen after returning from the local mosque.

While we did not get a chance to visit the Jordan Museum, it will be a stop when we return. Home to Jordan’s share of the Dead Sea scrolls, as well 8000 year old statues, this international standard museum should not be missed in Amman. You will be able to see Amman’s Egyptian heritage, as the city was once known as Philadelphia, after the ruler Philadelphus (283-246 BC). It was also one of the cities of the Roman Decapolis, before becoming part of the Empire around 30 B.C. The museum will help you get a feel of Amman’s long and storied history.

In more recent history, Amman has been influenced by Arabs and Jews fleeing the 1948 Palestine War and more recently by refugees from Syria. In the three areas of the city where the Palestinian camps were built are still known as the “Palestinian Refugee Camps” despite the array of buildings, shops and schools. Only in name, do they bear any resemblance to their original purpose.

Since 2011 Syrian’s fleeing their native country have moved into Amman and other Jordanian cities. The influx of refugees has seen an increase in rents and food prices in Amman. Where rent was once JD250 (USD350), it is now JD400 (USD 565) and the price of food staples has increased as well. Jordanians are now seeing less money in their pockets as wages have not increased at anything close to the rate of inflation on rent and goods. In a country where half of the population is under 25, King Abdullah II feels his country is in dire straits. Unemployment is skyrocketing, and the schools and healthcare system are under extreme pressure. Jordan is a country historically known for its welcoming nature, but in a country where resources such as water are limited, the Syrian refugee crisis is putting pressure on this friendly country.

After wandering the winding streets of downtown Amman, a visit to the famous Hashem Restaurant in Amman is a must for any foodie. And to be honest, everyone should visit. Open since 1952, this open air restaurant is a favourite of King Abdullah II and almost every dignitary or celebrity that passes through Amman will find their way to Hashem. It does have indoor seating, but literally wedged between two building, most of the patrons spill into the patio and enjoy their meal outdoors. Their legendary falafel and hummus, combined with their cheap prices make it a favourite for locals as well as tourists. If you arrive right at dinner time, expect it to be busy. try and pick a non-peak hour to visit if possible.

Before visiting Jordan I was conscious of their conservative values. Despite being officially a muslim country, there is a large Christian population as well. Women are not required to wear head scarves, nor is it recommended. The Christian women do not cover their head, so unless you are Muslim, I do not suggest it (unless of course you are visiting religious centre such as temples). As a women, wearing conservative shorts will not garner you unwanted attention, but you will stick out of the crowd. People in Jordan do not dress the same as we do in North America. You could walk the streets of Amman wearing a tank top, or Lululemon style workout gear, but you will honestly look silly. It just screams tourist. I suggest some comfortable pants, I found myself in jeans often, with sandals and a t-shirt. Long sleeves are not necessary, a short sleeve t-shirt will be fine. Cotton and flowing fabrics will help keep you cool in the hot temperatures.

We traveled to Jordan in the fall of 2016. The current security risk from Government of Canada Travel Advice and Advisories indicated to “exercise a high degree of caution” but noted that there was no nationwide advisory, but to avoid traveling within 5 Kilometers of either the Syrian or Iraqi borders. Honestly, we could not have felt safer. I expected a high military presence, but while there was an abundance of security, it was not what i was expecting. I pictured heavily armed, camo wearing soldiers, and honestly saw 1 person with an automatic weapon on our entire 7 day visit. Before visiting I was not even sure if armed escorts would be common in the country.

There are different levels of police, from traffic police littered on the streets and highways, often attempting to direct the traffic at busy intersections. There is the regular police, who are doing regular police duties. The gendarmerie, who perform national security for the country (we mostly encountered them unarmed, in casual uniforms, as more of an event type security role), as well as the army. Coming from Canada, we are not accustomed to seeing heavily armed forces, Jordan felt just like home. there was no intimidation from the police or security.

Major hotels in Jordan have metal detectors and bag scanners, which the locals are accustomed to, and it gives an extra sense of security to visiting guests. i did not find this caused me or my family any worry. In fact, the kids were (for once) happy to carry our bags and run them through the scanner. The doormen were always friendly and happy to show the boys pictures of their scanned bags.

In fact, everywhere we went, we encountered welcoming friendly people. Most Jordanians speak impeccable English, on account of their education and English being taught in the schools. Each person we met, whether it be a coffee shop or a restaurant, wanted to know where we were from, offered a sincere “Welcome to Jordan” and proceeded to give the kids handshakes and welcomes and interacted with them directly! The kids, while a little shy at first, were happy for the attention and picked up on the attention quite quickly.

Finishing off the day in Amman found us wandering Rainbow street as we stopped for an ice cream. Still full from Hashem’s eats, we made our way back to our hotel with our guide and driver.

Full-Day Amman City Tour and the Dead Sea from Amman

If You Go:

Most visitors to Amman, spend a day or two to visit the city before heading to the Dead Sea, Jerash, Petra or Wadi Rum. Many day trips are popular from Amman and I would recommend at least three days to explore Petra, Wadi Rum and visit Aqaba.

About the author:
Lindsay is a wife, a mom to two little boys, a soccer player, a freelance writer, a photography enthusiast, a lifetime traveler and a lover of learning. She resides in a suburb of Vancouver when not jet-setting abroad, and is constantly exploring new ways to enjoy every minute she can with her family, and the pressures of living in our fast-paced society. Lindsay is the Editor and Founder of Carpe Diem OUR Way, a member of the BC Association of Travel Writers and a regular contributor to Urban Baby and Toddler Magazine.

All photos copyright Lindsay Nieminen:
Amman’s Citadel – Hercules Temple
Amman’s Roman Theatre
Hashem Restaurant
Dead Sea
Petra

Walking Around Half The World

Isfahan, Iran

by Neil Middleton

Isfahan nesf-e-Jahan: Isfahan is half the world. I’d had this old saying ringing in my head for months. Ever since I’d first seen pictures of Isfahan’s magnificent mosques of blue and gold, I felt it was one of those places that I just had to go to, a goal in itself with no need for explanation and reasoning. There are many places in Iran that call to the historically minded, or to the curious. Isfahan, being one of the ancient capitals of Iran, has a natural appeal to historians but more than that it hosts one of the most beautiful collections of buildings in the world.

It was early in the morning when I first walked into Nagh-e-Jahan square. It was a national holiday so people from all over the country had flocked to Isfahan. For me this meant the only available space in a hotel was little more than the floor of a converted underground storage room. Thoughts of such cramped accommodation made me happy to now be standing in one of the world’s largest squares. A huge open space, enclosed by covered arcades on each side is home to three of the high points of Persian, and world, architecture, the Imam(Shah) and Shekh Lotfollah mosques and the Ali Qapu palace.

Unlike most urban spaces which can feel crowded and busy, the panels of grass under foot and an open, cloudless, sky above the Nagh-e-Jahan were relaxing. So to begin I simply sat down and took in the glories of Persian architecture that surrounded me. There is of course a reason why so many grand mosques, palaces and markets are clustered in one place. At the end of the sixteenth century Shah Abbas wanted to make this spot the centre of his power base. The Shah moved his capital to Isfahan, roughly in the centre of modern Iran, and began a huge building programme to make the city a worthy capital. The centrepiece of this programme, the Nagh-e-Jahan square, is then a monument to centralised power. But with that power having fortunately faded long ago, what’s left today is a space of remarkable beauty.

Getting up off the grass I walked toward the largest of Nagh-e-Jahan’s monuments, the Imam(Shah) mosque. Every inch of the sizeable structure is covered in blue and turquoise tiles, a speciality of Persian architecture. The mosque’s massive but intricately detailed gateway interrupts the plain brickwork of the surrounding arcades. The central arch alone climbs up to 27m with the two flanking minarets continuing further to reach 42m. Inscriptions in white Arabic script against a deep blue background frame central entrance. The rest of the space is filled with floral and geometric patterns in a mix of lighter colours. The level of detail is such that no corner, edge, or spot is left unadorned. This level of detail continues inside with over 400,000 painted tiles covering the arcades, halls and gateways of this extensive mosque complex. If the mosques of Nagh-e-Jahan square are the crowning glories of the Shah’s building programme then the domes are certainly the glittering jewels.

The architects of the Safavid period (AD1501-1736) covered both the interior and the exterior of their domes in coloured tiles with colourful and impressive results. The Imam mosque is topped by an unblemished turquoise dome which fades paler and paler as the sun hits it. On the inside, yellow and cream floral patterns grow in circles against the blue background until this mass of individual details culminates in one central point at the top of the dome. Starring up into this pattern I could start to see that this wasn’t all about making something simply beautiful, these thousands of tiles were arranged to make a point. That the decorating pattern flows up, or flows down, from one central point was not just an aesthetic choice, it symbolises the climb up to heaven. The decoration of the mosque, like all art, is there to help people think of things beyond themselves.

More remarkable still was the next building I walked into after exiting the Imam mosque. Again I entered through a brightly pattern gateway with a large dome sitting low just behind it. This time the exterior of the dome was based on yellow rather than blue. Since the Shekh Lotfollah mosque was built to be the private mosque of the Shahs, whereas the Imam mosque was for the public, the decoration is even more elaborate and rich. Unusually this building stands alone without minarets and the treasures within would have been unknown to all but a select few for centuries. Now, thankfully, commoners such as myself and the dozens of holidaying Iranians around me are freely allowed to walk the corridors of the Shah’s private jewel.

Perhaps not surprisingly there was more of a preference here for yellows and golds which are lit up by the sunlight flowing in through a series of windows. It says a lot that scholarly opinion suggests the Shekh Lotfollah is on a higher artistic level than even the Imam mosque. More effort and expense were put into this building and, while it is the smaller of the two, it is more embellished than its popular neighbour. The religious ideas motivating the decorations are again visible as I look up at the roof of the prayer hall. Circular patterns ascend in ordered rows to culminate at the top of the dome to inspire the visitor to contemplate the one centre.

These two buildings are certainly not lone diamonds, Isfahan probably has one of the best collections of architecture from the 16th-17th centuries anywhere in the world. Straight across from the Shekh Lotfollah mosque is the Ali Qapu palace. Also constructed on the orders of Shah Abbas, its large balcony hangs over one side of Nagh-e-Jahan square. Eighteen slender wooden columns hold up the finely painted balcony roof and from here I naturally got the best view of the city. Back down on the ground, Isfahan’s other major palace, the Chehel Sotoun, has a similar painted wooden pavilion set amidst a park. Both palaces are highly decorated inside with the walls of the Chehel Sotoun bearing a number of large frescos depicting the shahs and the court.

The building programme of Shah Abbas also left a significant legacy spanning the river Zayendah. Numerous monumental bridges cross the wide stretch of water at Isfahan, some with foundations going back over a thousand years, but the longest is the Si-o-seh pol. During the day it is a long flat place to stroll along and combinations well with the grassy banks of the river to become an ideal place to rest in the afternoon. Covered niches line the sides of the bridge giving people dozens of semi-hidden spots to sit quietly looking out over the river. With evening the promenading crowds increase as do the numbers of river birds that flock over head.

It takes a good few days to wonder around the city looking for the various mosques, cathedrals, bridges and palaces that bring people to Isfahan. When many of these buildings were fresh and new in the 17th century it was believed that Isfahan was one of the world’s most beautiful cities. That claim still holds true centuries later.

If You Go:

Procedures to get a visa to visit Iran change from time to time so check with an embassy in your country first. A pre-approval number is often needed which can be arranged through a number of travel agencies. The process takes time but, depending on circumstances, can be easy enough.

About the author:
Neil Middleton is an occasional writer and archaeologist with an eye on history. He has traveled to a number of places around Europe, the Middle East and Asia and has lived in a variety of European countries.

All photos by Neil Middleton:
Nagh-e-Jahan square
Imam(Shah) mosque
Outside of Shekh Lotfollah mosque
Dome of Imam mosque
Central dome of Imam mosque
Inside Shekh Lotfollah mosque

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