Santa Lucia Lore

By Leslie Jones

The rugged Santa Lucia Mountains gracefully tumble down to the mighty Pacific Ocean along California’s scenic Pacific Coast Highway. Towering high overhead, their majestic size safely guards many secrets of this intriguing area’s cultural and historic past. Driving into this magical backdrop simply takes your breath away with its unparalleled beauty, whimsical charm, and creative forces at play.

The colossal castle high upon the hill is just one of many reminders of the history that abounds along this remarkable, scenic corridor on the journey north to Big Sur. Hearst Castle, a dream brought to life by publishing tycoon William Randolph Hearst, is now a California State Park Museum as well as a National Historic Landmark and California Historical Landmark. He and his famed architect, Julia Morgan, designed this elaborate castle housing ornate tapestries and artistic relics and artifacts from around the world.

Directly across Highway 1 lies San Simeon State Park, showcasing the area’s charming, historic schoolhouse (1881), general store (1852) and many warehouses once used to store Hearst’s world-renowned treasures. San Simeon Point, a local Chumash sacred site, gracefully frames this enchanting beach cove area.

Just up the road lies the majestic Piedras Blancas Light Station perched above dramatic ocean rock formations. This lighthouse was first illuminated in February 1875 and was originally 100 feet tall complete with a first order Fresnel lens. It became a California Coastal National Monument addition in 2017.

In 1994, scientists from the National Marine Fisheries Service (NMFS) began taking an annual count of gray whale mothers and calves as they passed Piedras Blancas in April and May on their way to their annual feeding grounds in the Arctic seas. It is also utilized as a United States Geological Survey (USGS) California Sea Otter counting and nearby elephant seal rookery census data collecting location.

Heading higher into the Santa Lucias, dramatic views of the expansive Big Sur coastline are visible around each turn. At times, with an almost translucent teal color, there’s a plethora of activity to witness far down below in and around the ocean’s edge. Sea otters frolic in the coves, untouched beaches beckon and on occasion, you’ll see someone fishing or collecting mussels on the rocks.

California Sea Otters, also known as the “teddy bears of the sea”, were once close to extinction. Under the Endangered Species Act, they continue to expand in range and population. By the 1930s it was believed that they had vanished due to fur traders. Fortunately, a small group survived and continued to thrive in the area. They are a true joy to watch with their playful antics and adorable appeal.

Gorda is one of several small, colorful towns you pass through while continuing north. The fresh springs in Gorda were used by local Native American tribes (Esselen) and the first Europeans arrived in 1878, when a stagecoach stop was built. Today it is a small, whimsical enclave offering the Gorda Springs Resort, Whale Watcher’s Café and a gas station.

The area’s population expanded with the nearby Gold Rush during the 1880s. Gold and silver were discovered in Big Sur in the late 19th century. In response, miners began searching along this southern flank of Pico Blanco. Today, the entire area is still littered with the rusting remnants of mining operations.

Lime was also formed nearby (limestone converted into calcium oxide/lime) at the historic limekilns at Limestone State Park. The walk through this enchanted coastal redwood forest alone is worth the climb up to the limekilns to admire their ominous skeletal remains. The area also hosts one of many gorgeous beaches you’ll want to enjoy for days on end. Big Sur naturally brings the kid out in you as well as the artist’s creative soul.

Rare and valuable forms of jade have also been found around a nearby area known as Jade Cove. Starting in Gorda in 1990, the ongoing Big Sur Jade Festival now showcases hundreds of amazing jade, wood, and rock artist creations. On my last trip north, I met a husband-and-wife team in Gorda who dive for and sell jade at festivals and in Gorda. It was a true pleasure to hear adventurous stories of these sometimes-precarious dives.

Esalen Institute is a holistic retreat and educational institute first established in 1962. Joan Baez and friends once played there at Big Sur Folk Festivals while the colorful author and artist Henry Miller and his local friends populated the area for many years. It has become a wonderful place for a self-soothing, yoga and writing retreat since it is merely a few hours away.

Offering farm-to-table fresh meals (including amazing curries, salads, soups and much more) straight from their expansive garden, Esalen offers a fascinating mix of workshops and a large 120-acre ocean view property in which to roam. It is also well known for its hot springs.

The location was first homesteaded by Thomas Slate in 1882, when he filed a land patent under the Homestead Act of 1862. This made it possible for citizens to claim 160 acres of surveyed government land. Homesteaders were required to build a dwelling and cultivate the land. After five years, they owned their land free and clear.

The settlement became known as Slates Hot Springs. It was the first tourist-oriented business in Big Sur, frequented by people seeking relief from numerous physical ailments. Soaking in the soothing tubs while listening to the nearby crashing waves is a uniquely, peaceful experience.

A Little Further North

Continuing to navigate the twists and turns of one of the most highly photographed drives in the world, you’ll soon come across names including Post and Pfeiffer. Early pioneers Michael and Barbara Pfeiffer came to Big Sur in 1869 and were among the first European settlers in the area. The homestead of their son, John Pfeiffer, has been reconstructed in Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, and his Pfeiffer Ranch Resort, established in 1908, was replaced by the Big Sur Lodge. Another nearby state park is named in honor of their daughter Julia Pfeiffer Burns.

Nearby, (Grandpa) Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn, was designed and built from the 1930s to 1960s. With each room hosting a unique personality, much of what was designed architecturally was recreated from his native Norway. Deetjen’s Inn was bequeathed for others to enjoy in 1972 and The US Department of the Interior placed Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn on the National Register of Historic Places in 1990. Its rustic, hand-crafted charm transports you back to Big Sur’s early years.

The Henry Miller Memorial Library is a non-profit organization celebrating the artistic contributions of Henry Miller, while serving as a cultural resource center for artists, writers, and musicians. It is also a wonderful outdoor venue for warm summer afternoon concerts.

While known best for novels including Tropic of Cancer, Tropic of Capricorn, The Colossus of Maroussi, Henry spoke of his intriguing years in this area (1944-1962) in Big Sur and the Oranges of Hieronymus Bosch. He was often viewed as a master storyteller and rather colorful character. Many of his paintings are also available to view at the area’s Coast Gallery.

Nepenthe Restaurant has a colorful history all its own dating back to 1949 when it opened by the Fassett Family who still owns it today. It was previously owned by Orson Welles and Rita Hayworth when it was merely a cabin in 1944. It was also used to film movies including The Sandpiper featuring Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton (1963).

Continue north and you’ll eventually reach the Monterey Peninsula with plenty of additional exploring to do along the way. Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park and Pfeiffer Beach, Point Sur Lighthouse and State Historical Park, and the famed Bixby Bridge are found along this northern portion.

The best piece of advice while traversing this historic sector is to slow down and enjoy the views. The ocean vistas are unparalleled, the small towns and stops are intriguing, and the entire area speaks volumes of the vast history it encompasses. Enjoy the famous Ambrosia Burger at Nepenthe for lunch, visit one of the taverns where the local stories are shared, walk barefoot on one of the expansive beaches and stay a bit longer and enjoy one of those amazing Big Sur sunsets.

IF YOU GO

Southern Big Sur Area

Esalen

Esalen Institute | A Leading Center for Exploring Human Potential

Hearst Castle

Hearst Castle – A Museum Like No Other

Gorda

Gorda Springs Resort – Lodging, Restaurant, Gas, Groceries

Piedras Blancas Light Station

Piedras Blancas Light Station – HOME

Big Sur Area

Big Sur