FOREVER FIRENZE
By Leslie Jones
Standing in the middle of Piazza della Signoria, I am completely mesmerized by my surroundings. Each direction I slowly turn reveals yet another story of historical relevance in this intriguing city. There’s a reason people flock to Florence (Firenze), Italy, and return year after year.
Founded in 59 BC as an ancient Roman settlement, it prospered during the Roman, Byzantine, medieval, and Renaissance empires. As a key center of medieval European trade, it is considered the birthplace of the Renaissance movement while evolving into a major artistic, cultural, commercial, political, economic, and financial center. The Renaissance brought writers (Machiavelli) and artists (Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci) into the spotlight and was a transitional time from the Middle Ages to modern times (15th-16th centuries) spreading across western Europe.
While standing here admiring Piazza della Signoria, a part of the Palazzo Vecchio, the city’s seat of power since the 14th century, I’m especially drawn to the outdoor sculpture gallery (Loggia dei Lanzi) designed in 1376. Neptune’s Fountain, a copy of Michelangelo’s David and the Marzocco lion, symbolizing the city of Florence, are all here.
Nearby lies the famous Uffizi Gallery (Galleria degli Uffizi). Initially created by Cosimo de’ Medici, he started placing art pieces and sculptures of the family’s private collection here for friends and family to admire. It later opened to the public in 1765.
The House of Medici first rose to power as a wealthy banking family and political dynasty and pursued other industries including alum. Aluminum based salt was used in the dyeing process. They were also sponsors of artists including Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, and Donatello. They largely controlled the city for close to 350 years.
Outside the gallery entrance, several accomplished artists showcase their finished pieces. I converse with my favorite artist for some time as he reveals his love for Florence and his passion for art. I purchase two colorful cityscape watercolors from him to bring home as a reminder of this city’s artistic flair.
Nearby lies the Galileo Museum (Museo Galileo), which I find especially intriguing. Displays include one of the largest scientific instruments and tool collections from the Renaissance to 20th centuries. Galileo’s telescopes, microscopes and compasses are among the many items on display.
Heading next to Piazza della Repubblica, the famed arch marks the center of ancient Florentina. The Colonna della Dovizia (Column of Abundance) where the Roman forum once stood dates to 1431. During medieval times, this area was populated with markets, a Jewish ghetto, synagogues, and churches. Little remains of the original square although it is inviting, complete with its own merry-go-round built in 1871.
Another short walk brings me to the famous Duomo (Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore). While circumnavigating the entire exterior, its intricate details including pink, green, and white marble are impressive. Completed in 1436, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site Basilica and one of Italy’s largest churches.
I’m walking late in the morning, after a rain shower, and the aromas spilling out of the doors are incredibly enticing. It signals a stop at a nearby trattoria to enjoy a traditional lunch of Tuscan white bean soup, artichoke and mushroom risotto and a lovely lemon gelato to finish things off. Florence is considered the birthplace of this popular, frozen treat.
Heading back down the busy Via Por Santa Maria Avenue to the Arno River, the popular Ponte Vecchio Bridge (Old Bridge) has an impressive history all its own. During WWII, it was the only bridge not destroyed by the Germans while fleeing the city. When the famed Medici family moved from Palazzo Vecchio to Pitti Palace (Palazzo Pitti), they used it as a connecting route high above the little shops still there today.
Initially used by butchers, fishmongers, and tanners during the 13th century, that changed in 1593 when only goldsmiths and jewelers were allowed. It was implemented to improve the environmental health of the entire area including the river. The store doors, closed and locked at night, are quite old and creatively designed relics.
The Oltrarno neighborhood (beyond the Arno), across the Ponte Vecchio Bridge, hosts another vast world worth exploring. Artisan workshops are plentiful on this side, and they have thrived here since the Middle Ages. Known initially as a working-class neighborhood, Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens later became home to the Medici family. The Basilica di Santo Spirito Basilica and neighboring square is a local favorite hangout and Piazzale Michelangelo always draws a crowd for panoramic views of the city and incredible sunsets.
Heading next south to the heart of Tuscany for a women’s writing retreat, we pass through the Chianti wine region dating back to the 13th century. Starting out as a white wine, this region continued to grow in popularity and the wines turned primarily into reds. Often remembered as the red wines in a straw basket, the region stretches primarily between Florence and Siena. It has grown in popularity and prestige over the years. It is paired especially well with a hearty tomato sauced-based pasta, pizza, or hearty meat dish, all greatly enjoyed and celebrated throughout this region.
Siena, one of many local medieval hilltop towns, is historically linked to commercial and banking commerce. It hosts the oldest bank in the world (Monte dei Paschi Bank) dating back to 1472. The University of Siena was founded in 1240. Siena’s Cathedral (Duomo di Siena) is a medieval church built between 1215-1263. Siena’s historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is popular for its cuisine, art, architecture and the Palio, a horse race held twice a year in the main square Piazza del Campo.
Continuing to head south, the heart of Tuscany is lovely, old, and more picturesque than I could have imagined. Staying at a villa for the week, I walk around the vast property filled with ancient olive trees, grape vines, citrus trees, chapels, and small, picturesque towns nestled in the hills. Wheat, olives, grapes, fruit, and vegetables are all valuable crops in this area.
One last afternoon is spent back in Florence at the Santa Maria Novella neighborhood after leaving the Tuscan countryside. It is the first great basilica in Florence and the city’s principal Dominican church. It’s a great place to rest those weary feet with a mid-morning cappuccino and pastry while watching the passerby. I meet a delightful couple from Canada and another from Germany. Florence has a truly international appeal due to its art, cuisine, architecture, and overall friendliness.
Also in this neighborhood is the Santa Maria Novella pharmacy (Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella), the oldest known still-operating pharmacy in the world. It was established in 1221, when the Dominican monks began growing herbs to make medicines for their infirmary.
One last stop at Il Porcellino (the little pig) originally a bronze statue turned into a fountain in 1640. He brings good luck when you rub his snout and put a coin in his mouth. You will return to Florence if that coin washes into the grate below. Perhaps that is why so many return, again and again, to Florence.
IF YOU GO
Uffizi Gallery, Pitti Palace & Boboli Gardens
Gli Uffizi | Le Gallerie degli Uffizi
Duomo
The Brunelleschi Dome | The Opera del Duomo of Florence
Ponte Vecchio Bridge
Ponte Vecchio in Florence, Italy: Oldest bridge in Florence over Arno River (visitflorence.com)
Siena
Siena,Italy:Tourist Guide to Siena,Visit Siena Italy with Siena Pass (discovertuscany.com)
Browse Available Florence, Italy Tours
About the author:
Leslie Jones lives and writes along California’s picturesque central coast. She’s especially passionate about history and cultural travel which has taken her to favorite destinations including: Italy, Spain, Portugal, Morocco, the Caribbean, Costa Rica and Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula. She also has two books in the heritage centers and museums on Hawaii Island showcasing her family’s deep roots in the sugar plantation industry.
Photo Credits:
Top photo by Heidi Kaden on Unsplash
Ponte Vecchio Bridge by Leslie Jones
Duomo by Leslie Jones
Siena Cathedral © Raimond Spekking / CC BY-SA 4.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)
Il Porcellino (Fountain) by Leslie Jones
