Central America Travel

Guatemala: The Pearls of Lake Atitlán

by Troy Herrick

Lake Atitlán, nestled within the fog-shrouded mountains of the Guatemalan highlands, is graced with twelve towns scattered around its periphery like the pearls of a necklace. Over 90% of the inhabitants in the area are indigenous people but you will not find any Mayan ruins here because these towns were all established during the Post-Classical Period. You can develop a flavour for the area by taking a boat ride to the three towns of Santiago de Atitlán, San Juan La Laguna and San Pedro La Laguna by way of Panajachel, your gateway to the lake.

As we crossed Lake Atitlán by speedboat towards the town of Santiago de Atitlán, Alex, our guide, quietly informed us that this lake was once a volcanic caldera, formed some 84,000 years ago. The caldera imploded on itself and was subsequently drained of its magma. The present day lake is set against a backdrop of three volcanoes named San Pedro, Tolimán and Atitlán on its southern shore. With a little imagination we could almost see images of these volcanoes reflected on the mildly choppy water. Since the winds become notoriously strong on the lake in the afternoon, this was likely to be the best image we would see of the three cones on the water. What Alex didn’t say was whether or not these volcanoes were still active.

Arriving at Santiago de Atitlán, a former Mayan capital, we swapped the speedboat for a tuk-tuk and raced through the narrow streets to our first stop – the local shaman who is the people’s intermediary with the local Mayan gods through a statue of Rilaj Mam known as the grandfather to the people.

Entering the room we found the shaman sporting a colourful scarf on his head. Set on top of an altar, next to the shaman, was Rilaj Mam decked out in colourful silk scarves and a gray Stetson. The scarves are changed regularly and each one is said to represent a miracle that he has performed.

Suddenly the shaman took a mouth full of rum from one of the nearby bottles and sprayed it all over a statue. He then followed that up with a lighted cigar which he carefully inserted into the statue’s mouth. The shaman repeated this offering roughly every 10-15 minutes. For some strange reason the thought of an alcoholic statue with lung cancer flashed through my mind.

Alex outlined the evolution of the Mayan saint named Rilaj Mam. The Creole population knows him as Maximón (pronounced Maa-shee-mohn) and he is San Simon to the local Catholics. The Roman Catholic Church does not approve of the worship of Maximón. The shaman circumvents this by including a second altar with statues of the Virgin Mary flanked by two saints on top. Nearby was a well-dressed Jesus nailed to a 6-foot tall crucifix that was leaning against the wall. I did not see the shaman offer Jesus any rum or cigars.

After saying goodbye to the shaman, our tuk-tuk carried us outside of town and to the summit of a mirador (viewpoint) overlooking Santiago de Atitlán. We had a spectacular view of the San Pedro volcano in the distance which rises to a height of 3020 meters. After admiring the view of that mountain, we looked below us to find a number of Mayan women doing their laundry in the lake as they have done at this site for centuries.

After a hair-raising tuk-tuk ride back into town, our driver left us at the square in front of the Church of St. James the Apostle, built between 1572 and 1581, with its dingy yellow exterior. The present structure was not the first church to occupy this site. The first was built by the Spanish in 1541.

The Mayans who actually built this church might have secretly commemorated the temple that once stood on this site when they included a flight of 20 steps leading to the front door of the church. A single month of the Mayan calendar consists of 20 days.

Entering the church, the yellow walls running the length of the building are lined with wooden statues of various saints. Each saint sports unique garments produced by the local women. Looking toward the apse you find three altarpieces representing the local volcanoes. Alex conspicuously pointed out a carving of Maximón at the base of one of the columns supporting the roof.

Exiting the church, we returned to the speedboat for our next destination – the sleepy little village of San Juan La Laguna which is known for the colourful textiles produced by the local women’s cooperative. The members of the cooperative produce hand woven cloth using the traditional Mayan waist loom and natural dyes from the local plants. Inside the cooperative, don’t be surprised to find one of the women seated on the floor with a strap around her waist in order to hold a loom suspended between her and a nearby post. [TOP PHOTO] You will notice that she constantly repositions herself so as to maintain the tension in the warp and weft as she weaves.

San Juan La Laguna is also known for a number of local painters. You will not only discover art galleries filled with paintings capturing the local scenery but you may also find murals on some of the buildings are you wander through the narrow streets.

Your final destination by speedboat is the quiet little town of San Pedro La Laguna, set at the base of the volcano of the same name. Upon our arrival we jumped out of the boat and went directly to the Café Cristalinas. Once inside, the staff told us about the different Guatemalan coffee growing regions and the differences in taste. We sampled some freshly roasted Arabica coffee and cocoa beans, both of which are grown on the nearby slope in the rich volcanic soil. Combine these taste sensations with the panoramic view of the lake from the open-air cafe and there is nowhere else that we would rather have been at the time. But paradise is sometimes fleeting and we had to return to Panajachel, but not before we purchased a pound of dark roast coffee. We had just enough time to put the coffee into our backpack and jump into the boat before it left.

The water was noticeably choppier than it was this morning as our boat skipped over the waves en route to Panajachel. Upon arrival at the dock you will likely have a few minutes to visit some of the stalls lining Calle Real in search of that perfect souvenir if you weren’t able to do so at any of the previous towns. Unfortunately we had to tear ourselves away from the laidback Panajachel lakefront and return to Antigua but not before thinking that Lake Atitlan would be a relaxing retirement destination someday.

If You Go:

You can arrange a tour to Lake Atitlán as a daytrip from Antigua. Reservations can usually be made at your hotel. The boat ride to each town is included in the tour.

A tuk-tuk ride costs 20 Quetsals.

Admission to visit Maximón is 2 Quetsals. You can take his picture for 10 Quetsals. It is not possible to provide an address for where Maximón is located because this changes every year.

Admission to the Church of St. James the Apostle (Iglesia Parochial Santiago Apostol) is free.

Lake Atitlan Off The Beaten Path: A Day Full of Adventure from Antigua

About the author:
Troy Herrick, a freelance travel writer, has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. His articles have appeared in Live Life Travel, International Living, Offbeat Travel and Travels Thru History Magazines.

Photo credits:
Diane Gagnon, a freelance photographer, has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. Her photographs have accompanied Troy Herrick’s articles in Live Life Travel, Offbeat Travel and Travels Thru History Magazine

Panama: Discovering the Panama Canal

A Wonder of Our Modern World

by Edward Quan

Built in 1914 and listed as one of the seven wonders of the modern world by the American Society of Civil Engineers, the Panama Canal has long been a destination for curious visitors. Now that the $5.4 billion project to double the waterway’s capacity in order to accommodate even bigger ships as they transverse the 77-kilometers between the Pacific and the Caribbean Oceans is complete, a new era begins for intrepid travelers interested in experiencing this historic wonder of our modern world.

Panama is an easy country for North Americans to travel in. Panamanians are a warm and friendly bunch, the American dollar is used as currency and, while the official language is Spanish, English is common in the business and tourism sectors. Walking along the boulevards in downtown Panama City, you are surrounded by towering luxury hotels, nightclubs, casinos and shopping malls. You cannot help but marvel at the prosperity of this small country which aspires to be the jewel of Central America. Many visitors enjoy day trips to san blas islands from panama city.

During an early morning cab ride to the Panama Canal’s Miraflores Visitor Centre, I felt an energy on the streets of the capital, Panama City. Everyone was jaywalking, causing my taxi driver to brake hard and swerve to avoid pedestrians. When I asked him why everyone was in such as rush, he replied, “Everyone is just late getting to work.” It seems Panamanians, while retaining some of their Latin American laissez faire, are a bustling and busy bunch.

There are many who believe that crossing the Panama Canal on a luxury cruise ship is the best way to see it. However, I’m of the opinion that to truly appreciate this remarkable feat of modern engineering you must visit the Miraflores Visitor Centre and the Canal Expansion Observation Centre in Colon, the Pacific entrance to the Canal located 43 kilometers north of the capital city.

The Miraflores Visitor Centre is situated directly in front of the first of the three sets of canal locks that raise and lower ships from the Pacific Ocean to Gatun Lake. Gatun Lake, which sits some 26 metres above sea level, is a man made lake formed by the building of the Gatun Dam to provide the locks with water. It allows vessels to travel the 24 kilometers across the Isthmus of Panama, the highest point of the Canal.

The four-story Visitor Centre has large observation decks on both the ground level and on the fourth floor that give you a drone’s eye view of the Canal locks operations. From the observation decks, you can watch as tugboats guide the ships to the entrance of the locks. The current Panamax class cargo ships have a tonnage of 52,500, a length of 289 meters and a beam of 32 meters. These ships only just fit into the locks with about 20 centimeters to spare on each side of the Canal walls. Their captains having relinquished control, the ships are then tethered to four small electric diesel locomotives – two on each side positioned at the bow and stern – nicknamed “mules”. Mules, followed by rail and now the Canal, were the first method of moving interoceanic cargo across Panama. Their use dates to Spanish Colonial times, over 500 years ago.

For over a century, the drivers of these locomotives have been responsible for controlling the movement of ships through the locks using voice commands. No modern technology such as GPS is used. It’s an extraordinary ballet performed on parallel rail tracks located along both sides of the lock. The locomotives pull the ships forward with their individual tether lines, maintaining full control of the vessels and keeping them from touching the canal walls. It’s impossible to grasp the complexity of this task while watching from on board a vessel; you need to see it for yourself from the Visitors Centre.

The Panama Canal locks are now over a century old and not a lot has changed over the years. What you experience at the Visitors Centre is very much the same as it was when the Canal first opened in 1914. The double wall gates to the locks are hydraulic driven and the water is gravity fed to fill the locks to raise the ships. The only difference is that the locomotives were powered by steam in the past, rather than electricity. The simplicity of the operation is remarkable, considering the high-tech age we live in today.

On the ground floor of the Miraflores Visitor Centre there is a large theatre that offers a 3D movie on the building of the Panama Canal. The film introduces you to Mr. Canales, a character that shares the history of the canal with viewers. Spanish and English versions are presented alternately each hour throughout the day.

Above the theatre, there are four large exhibition halls each focused on a different aspect of the Canal. The first of these is the History Hall which chronicles the challenges faced in building the Canal. Here you learn about the backbreaking work of building the Canal and the equipment used to move the tons of earth removed from the site during the early 1900s.

The second hall, the Hall of Water, covers the importance of water, environmental conservation and sustainability to the canal watershed and locks. After all, without water, the Canal would not exist.

The Canal in Action hall demonstrates how the Canal operates using an interactive simulation that puts visitors on a virtual ship’s bridge. The exterior view video screens allow you to pilot your ship through Panama. A favorite with children, this simulation has you riding up the locks from the Pacific, sailing under the Bridge of the Americas and crossing the Canal to finally descend into Caribbean waters. Without a doubt, this will keep kids engaged during your visit.

Lastly, The Canal in the World hall explores the importance of the Canal to world trade. Here, you learn how many countries ship goods through the Canal as well as the types of cargo they ship. You learn about how China is the most frequent user of the Canal and that US Eastern seaports their final destination. The global perspective provided by this hall is a testament to the impact the Canal has had on world trade.

Included in the Visitor Centre is a sit-down restaurant and gift shop so be prepared to spend 3 hours minimum on site if you intend to get the most out of what’s on offer.
Afterwards, head to the new Gatun Lake Visitor Center which was built at the height of the treetops and provides panoramic views of the new locks and the expanded Canal. There you will find more exhibits, a theatre presentation in English, a gift shop and a café. Surrounding the facility is four hectares of rainforest complete with wild monkeys and sloths.

The Canal is operational 24 hours a day. However, with a transit time of 8 -10 hours, most ships enter before 10am. The best time to visit is early morning to see the ships enter from the Pacific Ocean or late afternoon to view eastbound vessels as they exit the Canal.

For centuries, cargo from the Orient and South America has crossed over the Panamanian isthmus and the newly expanded Canal represents the “can-do” drive of the 3.5 million people of Panama. This optimistic attitude has also contributed to a growing tourism industry which provides visitors rich Spanish Colonial history, Caribbean beach front resorts and endless summer weather. This is Central America’s must visit destination, offering culture, leisure and one of the world’s wonders of engineering.

If You Go:

The Centres: Miraflores Visitor Centre is open everyday except Christmas Day. It is open from 9 AM to 4:30 PM and admission is US$15 for adults and US$10 for children. Admission to the Gatun Lake Visitors Centre is US$5. Children under 12 are free.

Transportation: Taxis from Panama City to Miraflores Visitor Centre are US$7 for locals. As a tourist, you will be asked to pay upwards of $20. Negotiate the fare before entering the cab. Bargain and stand firm at US$10 which is a fair price.

Accommodations: There are plenty of luxury hotels and resorts in and around Panama City. I recommend the smaller boutique hotels located in the old Spanish historic district of Casco Viejo.

About the author:
Edward Quan is a luxury fashion and travel writer who delivers exceptional stories from the style capitals of the world. Be it art, music, cinema or architecture, he explores the influences on personal style while traveling well and covers the best in luxury hotels and resorts, fine food and wine and of course shopping.

All photos by Lui Ming Quan:
Large cargo ships traveling east bound at the Miraflores Visitor Centre, Panama Canal
Old Spanish historical district of Casco Viejo is where you will find smaller boutique hotels during your visit in Panama City
Miraflores Locks at the Panama Canal is where you can watch ships be raised and lowered from Pacific Ocean to Gatun Lake
From the observation deck of the Miraflores Visitor Centre, you can view Panama class cargo ships pass through the locks

Chichicastenango On Market Day

Sightseeing in Guatemala

by Troy Herrick

Stepping out of the bus at Chichicastenango on market day is like being hit right between the eyes. You are met by a loud seemingly chaotic atmosphere filled with unintelligible languages, the smell of burning incense and traditional herbs and a sea of bright colored clothing. The maze of temporary stalls through which you must pass in order to reach the tourist sites adds to your sensory overload.

The indigenous market is so crowded that your day is guaranteed not be fast paced. You will also have time to see that there is some organization to this seeming chaos. Designated sections of the market feature pottery, wood carvings, colorful Mayan textiles, vegetables, poultry, livestock or whatever else you are in the market for.

Take your time looking around for the best deal because prices are cheaper further away from the center of town and you are heading toward the centre of town.

Arriving in the plaza in the center of town you find the 475 year old Church of Saint Thomas with its whitewashed facade. This is not your typical Roman Catholic Church as the “traditional” Maya seem to have worked out some sort of arrangement with the local clergy. Climbing the 18 steps up to the house of worship, you might accidently trip over a shaman burning incense or candles and possibly even sacrificing a chicken to his gods. You might also be surprised to learn that this present day church was build on the site of a pre-Hispanic Mayan temple. History also records that the Mayan Bible known as the Popul Vuh was first discovered at this site by the Spanish.

The dimly lit interior of the church is saturated with smoke from past Mayan offerings. Take care where you step because you might accidentally walk over the remnants of an offering of flowers, corn or even alcohol set on or near one of ten low concrete platforms running along the length of the center aisle. Multi-colored gobs of wax suggest that the candles were set in pre-arranged patterns on these once-smooth surfaced altars. Roughly finished planks cover the apse behind the “Catholic” altar. Three saintly statues are set on recesses in each of the side walls. After observing the mix of two religions I could almost imagine these statues saying to themselves of their Mayan co-tenants “If you can’t beat them, join them.”

You can also cross the plaza and visit the Calvary Chapel which is a scaled-down version of the Church of Saint Thomas. Inside there are only three low concrete slabs on which to place offerings. The apse features an intricately carved wooden altar and the side walls feature hand-painted murals.

Exiting the Calvary Chapel, follow the winding road down the hill to the Museum of Ceremonial Masks. This museum houses a display of carved wooden masks and costumes that were once used in traditional dances all over the area. One room features a colorful mask and costume used in the bull dance. Other Mayan masks were used in the dances of the snake, deer, monkey and jaguar. Your keen eye can distinguish the Mayan masks that are over 200 years old because these are not painted.

Masks representing the Spanish have real hair for beards, mustaches and eyebrows. Statues of Mary and Joseph are set alongside a manger holding a statue of the baby Jesus. How can you be sure that this is the baby Jesus? Because he has a beard as well.

Shaman mannequins are also prominently displayed; these outline how this occupation has evolved over time. The mannequin representing the Mayan shaman was dressed in a gray shirt and pants held up by a red belt. His long black hair was covered by a red scarf. The Latino shaman wears a red, white and black shirt and a Spanish-style straw hat. A red scarf was draped on his right shoulder. The modern shaman, holding a cigarette in his hand, was dressed in a suit and tie. [TOP PHOTO]

The owner of the museum proudly pointed out that both he and his forbearers were all shamans. After touring the museum, the owner invited us to visit the Mayan altar set on the hillside behind the museum. After a short, steep climb we arrived at a large stone approximately 6 by 12 square feet and 18 inches high set under an awning. Fourteen small stones and two crosses placed there by the Spanish were the only decorative features. At the center of the altar is a shallow depression approximately 4.5 feet in diameter that is still used for burnt offerings by Mayan Shamans. Some straw fibers were still visible on the altar surface, likely from a recent offering.

After descending the hill, you may wish to take a break and relax over a cold drink. Return to town and visit the Mayan Inn. Order your drink and find a shady seat in the courtyard near the parrots. You will need to recharge your batteries because you must pass through the market again. By mid-afternoon, the crowd will have thinned out after the money has been exchanged and the supply of goods has been depleted. You also find that many of the stalls are being disassembled until the next market day. You can proceed back to your bus at a quicker pace unless you become distracted by another possible souvenir.

If You Go:

♦ Day trips to Chichicastenango can be arranged through the local travel agents in Antigua. The bus will drop you off and pick you up at the Hotel Santo Tomas in Chichicastenango.
♦ Two places in Antigua where you may wish to consider booking your tours are: Planeta Maya Travel Agency 4 Calle Poniete #20 (interior) and Guatemala Land Royal Tours and Travel at 5 Calle Poniente #4 (ask for Hektor Salazar). Most tour companies prefer that you pay in cash. Some do accept credit cards but you will be charged an additional fee. Inquire about this in advance.
♦ The Hotel Santo Tomas is located at 7a Avenida 5-32, two blocks east of the plaza.
♦ The Church of Saint Thomas is on the east side of the main plaza.
♦ Calvary Chapel on the west side of the main plaza.
♦ The Museum of Ceremonial Masks is located near the end of 9a Calle. Admission was 25 Quetzals.
♦ The Mayan Inn is located at 3a Avenida 8 Calle 1-91 Diagonal Santo Tomas.

4-Day Tour: Guatemala City, Antigua, Chichicastenango Market and Lake Atitlan

About the Author:
Troy Herrick, a freelance travel writer, has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. His articles have appeared in Live Life Travel, International Living, Offbeat Travel and Travel Thru History Magazines.

Photo Credits:
All photos are by Diane Gagnon, a freelance photographer who has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. Her photographs have accompanied Troy Herrick’s articles in Live Life Travel, Offbeat Travel and Travels Thru History Magazines.

Hacienda Puerto Limon

Tayuticha, Costa Rica

by Mary Ann Olson

Every year, thousands of coffee lovers flock to the Hacienda Puerto Limon Plantation to see how one of the world’s finest organic coffees is harvested and processed. And for a bonus, visitors get to walk amongst some of the most tranquil countryside in the world and explore a historic hacienda.

Perched high atop one of Costa Rica’s Turralba Mountains, the Hacienda Puerto Limon’s gorgeous 800 acres offers a haven for hot and tired tourists. The plantation’s peaceful vibe calms us down a notch or two from the moment we arrive.

The view and scenery from here are spectacular. Set against the bright blue sky, the Turralba Volcano sends out puffs of white and gray smoke into the clouds. A thick carpet of trees covers the surrounding mountainsides.

Far below us in the valley, we see a small, picturesque village with white houses and red roofs. Woven into a patchwork panorama of green grass fields and tall dark green trees, it looks intriguing. Nearby, a raging river cascades over huge rocks, leaving churning white water. Further away, a calm lake feeds the Reventazon River that flows into the impressive dam at one end.

In the hacienda’s grounds, we hear numerous varieties of birds singing softly in the trees. Green, violet and translucent blue-winged hummingbirds buzz and zoom around our heads in colorful blurs. They eagerly seek the nectar of the yellow, white and fuchsia flowers bunched around us.

Dogs, cats and goats roam freely around the plantation, lackadaisically raising their heads at our arrival. It’s so quiet we almost want to take a nap, yet at the same time desperately want to explore the enticing grounds and hacienda.

We meander along stone pathways past perfectly trimmed tree hedges. Small palm trees and ferns grow among the flowers. The fragrant scent of vanilla and jasmine orchids completes the serene atmosphere.

It’s time for the coffee processing demonstrations. We see how the coffee beans are cultivated, cleaned and roasted. And also how macadamia nuts and sugar cane are prepared.

The red coffee berries are peeled and poured into a large concrete circular mill. Two men continuously push a heavy wooden arm around the mill crushing the beans against the concrete walls. We hear a loud grinding and crunching sound.

Now the crushed beans have a ground coffee texture. Finally, the crushed beans are thrown into a fiery furnace for roasting. A heady, powerful aroma of freshly made coffee permeates the entire building. We’re salivating in anticipation of the tasting that follows. At the end of the tour we savor a cup of freshly brewed Costa Rican coffee. Bliss!

The plantation grows several acres of sugarcane. Brown sugar is extracted by placing the sugar cane stems through a wooden press. Two huge white oxen, walking around a circular dirt path, turn the press’s immense wooden wheel. The pressure makes the can juice ooze out from the crushed stems, into a bucket. The juice is then cooked in a hot oven. Three workers then pour the juice into a mold.

We taste the dried brown sugar-it’s very sweet. The brown sugar, macadamia nuts and a small portion of sugar cane juice, are hand rolled on a metal slab. Afterwards we taste the fresh fudge—it melts in our mouth.

Lunch follows on a terrace overlooking the valley. We’re surrounded by a garden of orchids in an array of colors and dark green foliage. Our traditional Panamanian meal consists of organic black beans, rice, local vegetables, and chicken and sweetened plantains. Herbs and spices taken from the plantation’s garden add a tasty flavor to the chicken. Delicious! For dessert: bananas cooked in hot sugar cane syrup-plantains.

After lunch we walk up a short grassy slope, to the chapel. The Ortuno family chapel, built in 1880, has stained glass windows. The sun reflects brilliantly through them, illuminating the room with warm reds, blues, yellows and golds. Art adorns the walls. Statues depicting Christian figures came from Germany.

Further along the grounds, an elegant copper gazebo has become the frequent site of weddings and wedding vow renewals. Couples on the tour pose for romantic photos.

The hacienda store overflows with plantation products: ground coffee, coffee beans, tempting chocolate-covered macadamia nuts and boxes of organic brown sugar. The store also sells Panamanian crafts.

“If you’re a coffee lover or not, this is a tour not to be missed”, says one of our companions as we walk back to our bus. Everyone nods in agreement.

We turn back for our last glance of the natural beauty that is the Hacienda Puerto Limon Plantation.

6-in-1 Combo Tour: Puerto Limon Highlights

If You Go:

This tour requires walking across stone pathways not suitable for wheelchairs and walkers. Wear comfortable walking shoes, sunscreen and a hat.

Tayutic Hacienda
Sitode Mata Pavone
3429-1000 Costa Rica
+506 2538 1717

About the author:
Mary Ann Olson is a freelance travel writer and photographer specializing in travel, culture, and nature. She resides in Florida.

All photos are by Mary Ann Olson.

New Life In Old Guatemala

by Jonathon Engels

In 1541, the crater atop the volcano just south of my apartment collapsed, and the deluge of water caused a massive mudslide, a lahar, that buried Guatemala’s then capital, La Cuidad de los Caballeros de Santiago de Guatemala. The result was that a city nearby, the one in which I currently live, got bumped up in status and received the same elongated name. Then, in 1773, after the Santa Marta earthquakes rampaged through Panchoy Valley and left this place in ruins, yet another capital, with a new name this time, was founded in a “safer location”.

Nueva Guatemala de la Asunción is now internationally identified as Guatemala City, one of the most dangerous cities in the world. Locally, it is known simply as Guate, and tourists avoid it. On the other hand, the previous capital, known as Antigua Guatemala (“Old Guatemala”), receives over a million tourists annually. In a weird way, those earthquakes preserved all the grandeur of the formal capital. They were probably a saving grace for the tiny city-to-be and one of the major reasons I have found myself walking these streets daily.

“Old Guatemala” Today

Nowadays, Antigua is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. What the mass exodus of 1773 left behind were around forty once-sturdy stone churches, beautiful cobblestone streets, and a vibrant culture not swallowed by the dirt and danger of today’s capital. Antigua’s streets are lined with pastel storefronts. Its parks are highly trafficked with pedestrians and thick with greenery. Its population is a fantastic mix of indigenous Maya, locals, international volunteers, long-time expats, and travelers who just can’t bring themselves to leave.

In addition to the history and beauty of the city, and despite its name, Antigua is now modernized and mindful of its biggest industry: tourism. Silver, native textiles, tourist tat, or knock-off clothing—The shopping here is fantastic and sometimes a little too irresistible. Restaurants come in variety, from street vendors and cantinas to fancy French bistros and fusion sushi. There are great interactive museums, like touring the jade factory.

Here, there is a no honking law to keep the city tranquil. There is new gun-free police force to fight corruption problems within the old arm-laden police force. People are working to preserve the inherent history, restoring old buildings and outlawing neon. NGOs run fair-trade, organic, self-sustaining, educational workshops for the natives and tourists alike. All in all, it’s a community, which, while some complain is not exclusively Guatemalan, immensely cares about this city, this country, and its own people.

What to Do with a Day

From Parque Central, its shade trees and centerpiece Mermaids’ Fountain, things spread in all directions. The ruins, churches, markets, and restaurant-café-bars are too plentiful to take in in one day of exploration, but rather it’s best to choose a healthy mix of sites. For me, there are certain highlights I like to use to create the initial wow for visiting relatives:

♦ Shopping: Antigua has a sizeable tourist market, The Mercado de Artisanias, on the west side of town. It’s a must for the colorful arrangements of textiles, the adventure of negotiable prices, and the initial wow of what’s available to buy here. However, the best places for souvenirs are probably Nimpot, an artisan cooperative with fair prices and the same selection, and Los Gigantes, another cooperative with finer quality options.

♦ Churches: I pass at least three cathedrals on my daily walk to work. For the best of what’s to offer, I always include Catedral de Santiago, the massive building on the east side of Parque Central (great photos on clear days); La Merced (and the yellow archway), with a nice little plaza in front of it and beautiful white trim; and Iglesia de San Francisco, which has market of food stalls, handicraft vendors, and beautiful courtyards.

♦ Ruins: Like churches, ruins sightings occur here on a block-by-block basis. For the most remarkably sprawling specimen, La Recolección Architectural Complex, head to the far west edge of town, beyond the market and “bus station” (a parking lot with a collection of remodeled US school buses, aka chicken buses, which are a sight in and of themselves). La Recolección is a former monastery now surround by parkland.

♦ Coffee and Chocolate: Both are a must here, or anywhere for some of us. Independent cafes are plentiful and unique, and while advertising suggests major differences, I’ve yet to go into a coffee shop and find myself sipping Nescafe. For chocolate, there are several options, but the Choco Museo adds a little history to the experience and/or Kaffee Fernando’s is run by a guy who is very passionate about producing top quality stuff.

Antigua is often regarded as too touristy, a little inauthentic its relative safety, clean streets and sidewalks and the all-too-catering service industry. Whatever the case may be, it is a city that melds cultures, times, and classes in a truly inviting way, which is why so many people choose to visit. As a resident, with the privilege of walking these streets every day, participating in the movement forward and the acknowledging of tradition, life is good and worth sharing with others. Come one, come all.

Antigua Market Cooking Class and Choco Museum in Antigua

If You Go:

♦ Shuttles are waiting at the Guatemala City airport to bring you here, about an hour away, for $10/person. Antigua is small, completely walk-able, so a renting a car isn’t necessary.

♦ Between May and October, come prepared for some afternoon showers. Generally, the mornings are fairly nice, but the rains inevitably make an appearance.

♦ Antigua has the world’s biggest Semana Santa, aka Easter week, celebration, and it is the peak of high season. Prices will double or triple and accommodations disappear way early. It’s an amazing experience, but planning ahead is required.

2-Day Chichicastenango and Lake Atitlan Tour from Guatemala City or Antigua

About the author:
Jonathon Engels has been an EFL expat since 2005, just after he earned an MFA in creative writing and promptly rejected life as an instructor of freshman comp. He has lived, worked and/or volunteered in seven different countries, traveling his way between them. Currently, he is in Antigua Guatemala, where most mornings he can be found tucked behind a computer in the corner of a coffee shop. For more from Jonathon, check out his website (jonathonengels.weebly.com) and his blog (jonathonengels.travellerspoint.com).

All photos are by Jonathon Engels