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New York’s Olcott Beach Then And Now

Olcott Beach NY

by Karen S. Roberts 

While looking for a quiet lakeside rental cottage for a short vacation, I stumbled upon Olcott Beach in the tiny hamlet of Olcott, NY. Not only did I find a cottage, but I discovered a quaint town with some interesting history.

Olcott Beach souvenir shopsBack in the early 1900’s, Olcott Beach was a resort area. When a trolley line was put in place between the towns of Lockport and Olcott in 1900, summer visitors flocked to the beach to enjoy the cool breezes of Lake Ontario and entertainment. Also vacationers arrived by steamship. During the early years of the 1900’s, over 100,000 tourists arrived yearly.

Visiting Olcott now, it’s hard to believe that it once teemed with tourists. The streets near the beach are lined with numerous summer cottages. At the Beachfront Vacation Cottages where we stayed, my husband and I enjoyed sitting on the deck each day, looking out over the beautiful lake with its sailboats, speedboats, kayakers, ducks, and sea gulls. On a nearby marina pier, several fishermen enjoyed the summer weather and each other’s company into the evening. But there were no big crowds.

Olcott Beach especially became popular when The Luna Amusement Park opened in 1898, featuring live entertainment at the Dreamland Dance Hall. As the crowds increased due to the trolley, eight hotels opened in the area to accommodate folks who came to enjoy the beach and entertainment.

The most popular hotel was the Olcott Grand Hotel, with one hundred rooms and a huge veranda overlooking the beach. Swimmers had direct access to the water from the hotel. But the real draw for tourists was the Grand Ballroom of 14,000 square feet. It was the beginning of the Big Band era, and popular musicians performed there. These included Guy Lombardo and Louis Armstrong.

Unfortunately, due to the Great Depression when people had little money to spend, in addition to the increase in automobile ownership, the hotel business at Olcott Beach and many other Lake Ontario tourist communities floundered. People could drive to the beach for a day and return home without spending money on a hotel. In 1927 a huge fire wiped out many buildings and the amusement park along the main part of the tourist area. The Grand Hotel was repaired, but only survived a few more years. Due to deterioration, the building was demolished in 1937.

Then in 1942 there was an upswing of summer visitors, although not the hotel business. The new Olcott Amusement Park became a tourist attraction. But it closed in 1986. Another small amusement park called New Rialto was open at Olcott Beach during some of those years as well. These small parks couldn’t compete with Darien Lake Amusement Park, which is now a Six Flags park. That park is only 43 miles from Olcott and opened in the early 1980’s.

Today Olcott is still an attraction for swimming, boating, and fishing. The town now sponsors major fishing derbies which draw in folks who love to compete for trophy fish. In 2012, Olcott Beach won the title of “Ultimate Fishing Town” in an annual contest sponsored by The World Fishing Network. The deep harbor is well known as a great place to catch salmon and trout.

The area north of Main Street in Olcott is the part of town called Olcott Beach. One of the unique characteristics is what might be the tiniest boardwalk anywhere with just a few seasonal shops.

Carousel in parkWhen we parked near the shops, we immediately heard the “oom-pa-pa” of a carousel’s Wurlizer Band organ. The Olcott Beach Carousel Park was developed in 2003-2004 by local volunteers who raised funds for building a vintage amusement park.. It features an old time Herschell-Spillman two-row carousel and a few other kiddie rides for only 25 cents a ride! They can do this because the park is staffed by volunteers and is incorporated as a nonprofit organization. When you enter this quaint park you feel like you are going back in time to around 1945.

The local volunteers who restored the round carousel building made sure that it resembled the original one that was built in the 1940’s. The volunteers take pride in letting children experience the fun of simple amusements like the ones enjoyed when their grandparents were children. This cute little park is open from Memorial Day Weekend through Labor Day each year.

Mariner's Landing restaurantAfter a stroll through the mini-boardwalk and the park, we went around the corner to eat at the Mariner’s Landing restaurant. We chose to eat inside due to the heat that evening. But we could have eaten on an outdoor upper deck which offers a stunning view of Lake Ontario and nearby Krull Park. The inside was filled with nautical decor, especially on an upper ledge that ran all the way around the dining room. It was filled with models of ships, lighthouses, sea captains, and other knick-knacks. They were fascinating to look at.

 Both of us ordered fish dinners. The waiter seemed a bit impatient as we asked questions about substitutions for potatoes and coleslaw, but he also was quite busy covering several tables in the dining room as well as out front on the sidewalk. Later he stopped by and in a more friendly way chatted about how to cook cabbage. We enjoyed our dinners and viewing the decor. We had to wait awhile to get our check, but overall eating there was fun.

Krull Park overlooks Lake OntarioAfter our meal we needed to walk off some calories and wandered across the narrow street into the beautiful 325-acre Krull Park. The park overlooks the lake in the area where the old Grand Hotel once stood. We didn’t go down the steep stone step pathway to the beach below where the swimming area is, but enjoyed the view from above. The park is pleasantly arranged with benches, picnic areas, and pavilions. We heard that over the summer several festivals take place at the park. Across Main St. is another section of the park. In a drive-by, we could see busy recreation fields and courts that were full of kids playing sports, along with spectators. A cheerleading squad was practicing within sight of the street also.

Within the park is a playground with a water spray area, as well as two ice skating rinks. This small community obviously takes pride in their park. It was very clean and nicely landscaped.

That evening we finished our day back on the deck at the cottage, hoping for a spectacular sunset over Lake Ontario. Although the sky was somewhat colorful each evening as the sun went down, we didn’t see the stunning sunsets that are often enjoyed at the lake.

I felt like we should have planned to stay a day or two longer to see other sights in the area. Olcott isn’t far from Niagara Falls and the Erie Canal that runs through Lockport. I’d like to return again next year during one of the festivals. If so, I hope to see one of those amazing sunsets!

If You Go:

♦ Olcott Beach Carousel Park
♦ Newfane and Olcott Beach Tourism Facebook Page
♦ More Info About Olcott
♦ The Buffalo News review of Mariner’s Landing
♦ History of Herschell-Spillman Carousel Making

About the author:
Karen S. Roberts, a free-lance writer and blogger, lives in Rochester, NY. You can visit her author page at amazon.com/author/karenrobertsbooks. Some of her blogs are become-a-secret-shopper.com, daily-devotionals.com, and bestgymnasticsvideos.com.

Photo credits:
It’s unusual to see four sailboats so close together on the lake – by Karen S. Roberts
It’s fun to visit these little shops that are only open during the tourist season – by Karen S. Roberts
The community takes pride in maintaining the vintage carousel – by Karen S. Roberts
Mariner’s Landing is a relaxing place to get a fish dinner in a unique nautical-themed atmosphere – by David Roberts
Krull Park, overlooking Lake Ontario – by David Roberts

 

Tagged With: New York travel, Olcott Beach attractions, USA travel Filed Under: North America Travel

Hillsborough: A Town of History, Cuisine and Creativity

Hillsborough cemeteryby Connie Pearson 

Do you hear them? As you stroll the streets and wander the cemeteries of Hillsborough, North Carolina, do you hear the echoes of the past? The clip-clop of horse-drawn carriages. The restless whisperings turning to impassioned cries of revolutionaries wanting freedom from England’s tyranny. The speeches of the brave men willing to sign that defiant Declaration. The proud boots marching off to war. The mothers and sweethearts shouting for joy when their soldier comes home or sobbing over the news of a fallen rebel.

Hillsborough’s 250 years of history can be your primary reason for visiting, but you will extend your stay or return another day because of the delicious food you’ll eat, the delightful people you’ll meet, and the fresh knowledge you’ll acquire.

Dixon HouseDriving into town, the first logical stop is the Dickson House at 150 E. King Street, which has Civil War significance and now serves as the Orange County Visitor Center. Park your car and see a 7-minute video giving an overview of Hillsborough’s history. Arrange for a guided tour, ask for information about restaurants, shopping, and town events, or purchase a walking tour booklet for $4.00. Make note of the public restrooms available on the grounds. The walking tour will take you past 46 well-documented structures, and 5 more are within a short drive. Most of the homes and offices are privately owned, but guided tours are available for Ayr Mount, Burwell School, and the gardens of Montrose.

Burwell schoolDuring a tour of The Burwell School Historic Site, you will hear many stories about the Burwell family, particularly wife and mother Anna Burwell. She was the very accomplished and well-educated wife of Robert, minister of Hillsborough Presbyterian Church. She did such an impressive job of educating her own 12 children, she drew the attention of a local doctor who asked her to teach his daughter as well. Anna Burwell saw that as an opportunity to supplement her husband’s meager salary. From that small beginning, she went on to oversee the educations of more than 200 young women from 1837-1857.

The course of study designed by Mrs. Burwell included religion, philosophy, penmanship, grammar, geography, geometry, chemistry, and astronomy. According to the school’s history, “Students ate plain food, exercised twice daily, made their own beds and helped wash the dishes. Daily prayers, regular letter-writing to home, and occasional trips into the village filled spare moments.” Many success stories can be traced to this early female academy.

grilled salmon dinnerA fascinating side story from those school years has ultimately drawn greater attention. A household slave girl named Elizabeth Hobbs Keckly worked strenuously for Mrs. Burwell. Although “Lizzie” had a harsh life, she eventually bought her freedom and became an accomplished dressmaker with such famous clients as Mrs. Robert E. Lee and Mrs. Abraham Lincoln. Mrs. Lincoln invited Lizzie to live in the White House and be her personal dresser. In that role she also became Mrs. Lincoln’s confidante, much of which is chronicled in Keckly’s book Behind the Scenes: Or, Thirty Years a Slave, and Four Years in the White House.

Continue the walking tour and you will be able to wander through several fascinating cemeteries. Old Town Cemetery is adjacent to Hillsborough Presbyterian Church on 102 West Tryon Street. John Knox Witherspoon was the only clergyman to sign the Declaration of Independence. He is buried in Princeton Cemetery, but his grandson is buried in Hillsborough, as well as William Hooper, another signer and prominent North Carolinian. The cemetery itself dates back to 1757.

Purple crow bookstore exteriorYou will probably work up an appetite with all of that walking. If so, Saratoga Grill at 108 S. Churton Street, is a delicious choice. New England clam chowder, Honey Almond Salmon, and scones are specialties. Blackened scallops, salads with house-made dressings, peppered swordfish, or the broiled seafood platter are other savory options. Every dish bursts with flavor. Doors open at 11:30 a.m. Arrive about that time. It will be completely full by 12:30.

Purple Crow Books at 108 West King Street is a favorite shop right around the corner from Saratoga Grill. Owner Sharon Wheeler was thrilled when 4 best-selling, prize-winning authors attended the Grand Opening of her store – Frances Mayes, Michael Malone, Lee Smith and Hal Crowther. All of them actually LIVE in Hillsborough!

inside Purple Crow bookstoreFrances Mayes, author of Under the Tuscan Sun, recently described Hillsborough this way: “After only two years, Hillsborough seems like the home I never left. When my family and I decided to move to North Carolina after decades in San Francisco, we kept hearing from friends in this area, ‘You must move to Hillsborough — that’s where all the writers and artists live.’ Being writers ourselves, we were magnetized by the idea of a town where creativity thrives, and, having grown up in a small town in Georgia, I wanted to return to a place with an intense sense of community. By great good luck, I found both, and more.”

Purple Crow Books is relatively small in size but specializes in two areas that lure customers. Sharon stocks two full bookcases with works of local authors and most of the copies have been autographed. And, because of her background as an elementary school guidance counselor, she has a delightful children’s section. It makes a wonderful stop during a day in Hillsborough, and you might even run into someone famous dropping by to bring Sharon a fresh copy of a new book.

There is so much more to learn, see and eat in Hillsborough. You’ll be welcomed warmly and leave genuinely impressed.


3-Hour Small Group Downtown Asheville Brewery Walking Tour

If You Go:

Hillsborough is located off of I40/85 between Durham and Greensboro.

For dining:
♦ Saratoga Grill
♦ LaPlace for Cajun food

For shopping:
♦ Purple Crow Books

For history:
♦ Burwell School
♦ Town Website

For lodging:
♦ Holiday Inn Express
♦ Microtel
♦ The Inn at Teardrops B&B

About the author:
Connie Pearson is a native Alabamian, wife of 44 years, mother of 3, grandmother of 12. A retired elementary music teacher/former missionary/now budding weight-lifter, travel writer and blogger. www.theregoesconnie.com

All photos by Connie Pearson:
Old Town Cemetery
Dickson House
Burwell School with Mrs. Burwell’s portrait
Saratoga Grill salmon
Purple Crow Books storefront
Purple Crow Books, shelves of Hillsborough authors

Tagged With: Hillsborough attractions, North Carolina travel, USA travel Filed Under: North America Travel

Friends Among Strangers

Colonial reenactors showing winter hunting gear

Fort Yargo State Park, Georgia

by Mickey Kulp 

The year 1792 saw the birth of the US Postal Service, the first presidential veto, and the construction of four forts along the restless Georgia frontier regions near Talassee, Commerce, Jefferson, and Beadland. Of those four outposts that once straddled the middle ground between rival Creek and Cherokee people, only one now stands.

Beadland eventually became known as Winder. But the last remaining outpost still bears its original name: Fort Yargo.

Recently, I traveled to Fort Yargo State Park to meet some members of the Fort Yargo Living History Society, a group of volunteers who are dedicated to using period tools, clothing, and techniques to give visitors a peek at Georgia frontier life in the 1790s. They strive for accuracy, and they mean it.

During my visit, the Society was replacing the mud and straw (called “chinking”) on the old blockhouse. This is a fun event, especially for the kids.

Patriot reenactorsWhen I arrived, I saw two large mud holes filled with children. And this was not some delicate, mash-the-mud-barefooted activity. This was full-contact mayhem, requiring everyone’s Outside Voice. Children were rolling in the red clay muck, happy as a butcher’s dog. Possibly, some of the more enthusiastic participants needed to be hosed off before their parents could even recognize them.

William Butler Yeats said, “There are no strangers here; only friends you haven’t yet met.” I never realized how true that could be until I started talking with the men and women who give up so many hours (and decades) of their time to make a dream into reality. Soon, we were chatting like old pals, sharing stories about our adventures as comfortably as neighbors over the back fence.

Zack and I discussed the plight of the local natives due to European diseases while he slathered a thick layer of red clay between the fort’s massive timbers. Unlike modern concrete, Georgia red clay shrinks very little when it dries, leaving a smooth strip of light material between the dark logs.

The July heat and humidity were brutal, but the fort’s blacksmith, Chilton, happily worked the furnace. Talking as he shaped glowing iron on his anvil, he was ready to answer an endless stream of questions, even giving visitors an up close look at his blazing forge.

primitive woodwork demonstrationThis was not a place where a rope or a “stay back” sign separated you from the action. The Society volunteers let visitors pitch in as fully as safety allowed. A young girl shelled dry corn into a wooden bowl while another waited her turn to grind it with a large pestle. And three tomahawk targets, unmolested today, hinted at more fun that could be had some other time.

Omer and Juanita, a married couple who are some of the founding members, sat in the shade, taking a well-deserved break from the oppressive heat. Around 1980, they both got involved in Living History in California. When they moved to Georgia, they found another group and, around 1995, organized their energies into preserving Fort Yargo.

“Most people didn’t even know it existed,” Omer said.

Omer, a skilled woodworker, built most of the benches, tables, shelves, and beds inside the fort using traditional tools and techniques.

Throughout each year, the Society invites the public to events ranging from hands-on cooking classes and our chinking party, to ghost stories and a visit with Santa. But, the highlight of the year is the Colonial Market Faire held every spring. In 2016, the Market Faire will occur March 31 through April 3.

The event “seeks to demonstrate colonial life during the late 18th to early 19th centuries.” And, to underscore the Society’s seriousness, they go to great lengths to assure that all clothing, furnishings, guns, knives, shoes, hats, baggage, eating utensils, and cooking utensils used or sold will be authentic to the pre-1800’s .

Fort YargoFor example, we were discussing the small sheds near the fort. When I asked if you could take a regular shed and add fake woodwork to make it look authentic, Darrell, the volunteer Sergeant of Arms who diplomatically refrained from thumping me on the forehead, was very definite in his response.

The Society is not about making things LOOK authentic. They want things to BE authentic. From the trees felled with an ax to the logs shaped with traditional tools to the dovetails carefully chiseled to fit without nails, this group is united in their collective calling to present the truth of those distant times. As the sun set and the cook fire sizzled, Eddie said he was sure that the old fort was haunted. Wearing a tricorn hat and green breeches with horn buttons, he recounted several compelling stories of his experiences as he turned his steak on the heavy iron grill. Doll, another volunteer, agreed. One night, someone kept pulling her blanket over her feet as she slept inside the fort. The consensus is that this ghost might be a kindly woman who was concerned about Doll’s cold toes.

As the volunteers went home one by one, only three of us remained, staring deeply into the fire and speaking in low tones about how to fix the world. While we had various ideas about what was wrong. We all agreed that many ills could be repaired if more people tried out our brand of contentment, requiring only a cool drink of water and a crackling campfire.

That night, I slept soundly in my tent, and my two remaining companions guarded their beloved fort from inside. And if we dreamed of long rifles and dutch ovens full of biscuits, we did not mention it the next morning. Instead, we drank strong black coffee, shook hands, and parted. Strangers no more.

If You Go:

The blockhouse is located within Fort Yargo State Park at 210 S. Broad Street, Winder, GA 30680. There is a $5.00 parking fee, but annual passes are available. The park is open from 7:00am to 10:00pm. Check the park web site at gastateparks.org/FortYargo for updated operating hours and admission prices.

The web site for the Fort Yargo Living History Society is: fylhs.com. The living history group is usually onsite on the third Saturday of each month.

The city of Winder is less than a mile from the state park. You will find many shopping and dining opportunities there.

All photos are by Michael Kulp:
Colonial reenactors showing winter hunting gear.
Patriot reenactors guarding the fort.
Primitive woodwork demonstration.
Fort Yargo, built in the 1790s.

About the author:
Michael Kulp is father of two mostly grown children who successfully survived his shenanigans through smarts they inherited from their mother. He is an Eagle Scout, writer, and passionate outdoorsman who collects tattoos, indulges in fine Viking mead, and enjoys living history events. For his latest adventures, visit www.WehaliBushcraft.com

Tagged With: USA travel Filed Under: North America Travel

Montana: Ghosts Of The American West

Virgelle Mercantile building
by Laurie Gough

“I don’t tweet, twatter, twitter, facebook, have internet or email,” were the first words I heard our river guide proclaim as we set off to canoe a section of the historic Missouri River in northern Montana.

Canoeing the Missouri RiverRather than the tame goings-on of the last couple of centuries, it’s the little-known facts about Lewis and Clark and their expedition through un-mapped Missouri River wilderness which guide Mike Nottingham loves to discuss. This mountain man, trapper, fisherman, and river guide for the Missouri River Canoe Company even teaches you how to pronounce Sacagawea’s name correctly.

Here in Virgelle, Montana, river stories of the past are just some of the surprises that await you.

Imagine driving through miles of undulating golden prairie hills and coming across a revived homestead-era ghost town. Located in the Upper Missouri River Valley, the Virgelle Mercantile is unique. Not only is the majestic old mercantile building the headquarters for the Missouri River Canoe Company—outfitters who will kit you up for a float down the river—it’s also a B&B and a homestead-era antique store. Most intriguing of all are the seven original homesteading cabins out back, all moved here from a 40-mile radius. These cabins aren’t just for show—you can sleep in them. After a home-cooked dinner and lively discussion in the dining room with fellow guests, you can walk right outside into a 19th century starry night and sleep in a real homesteader’s cabin.

Conestoga covered wagonI went one step further. I chose the sheep wagon. How could I resist? It looked like one of the coolest places I would ever sleep. And it was. All night I heard coyotes howling in the distance as the light of the half moon glimmered through my canvas-topped covered wagon. I felt like Laura Ingalls.

The next morning the theme of authenticity continued floating down the river through the Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument, which covers 375,000 acres of public land. As eagles soared above, I felt as if I we were paddling back through time, immersed in a remote and stark landscape of rolling yellow grasslands, piercing blue sky, and swaying cottonwoods along the riverbank, eventually taken over by white cliffs and immense sculpted hoodoos.

Missouri Breaks landscapeFrom our canoes, we didn’t see another soul on the river or bank, not a house, not even a broken-down homesteader’s shack. In fact, the Missouri Breaks landscape today, thanks to stewardship and land management, looks pretty much the way it would have looked to Lewis and Clark, even more so now than in the brief late-19th century steamboat days when trees were felled to fuel the boats. “The only difference now,” said Nottingham, “are the occasional Russian olive trees along the banks, which are invasive.” There’s also the odd cow which comes down from one of the ranches for a drink. Back then, of course, it would have been buffalo.

I can almost imagine the buffalo here, vast phantom herds of them. During the time of the Lewis and Clark expedition and for several centuries before, this river, the rugged surrounding uplands, and land stretching as far north as Edmonton, was home to the Blackfoot Indians, whose survival depended on the buffalo. By the mid-1800s, 50 years after Lewis and Clark’s expedition, they would be a decimated people, their prized buffalo hunted by the new settlers to near-extinction.

In Virgelle, Montana, ghosts of the American west seem to be everywhere, their stories longing to be heard.

If You Go:

♦ The Virgelle Mercantile is located 8 miles south of US-87, about 66 miles northeast of Great Falls, Montana. For more info, see the Virgelle Montana information website.
♦ The Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument has, in addition to a 149-mile stretch of scenic river, excellent hiking, boating, fishing and birding.

About the author:
Lauded by Time magazine as “one of the new generation of intrepid female travel writers,” Laurie Gough is author of Kiss The Sunset Pig: A Canadian’s American Road Trip With Exotic Detours, and Kite Strings of the Southern Cross: A Woman’s Travel Odyssey, shortlisted for the Thomas Cook Travel Book Award, and silver medal winner of ForeWord Magazine’s Travel Book of the Year. See: www.lauriegough.com and her blog: www.travelwritinglife.com

All photos are by Laurie Gough.

Tagged With: Montana travel, USA travel, Virgelle attractions Filed Under: North America Travel

On Track: U.S. National Parks and Amtrak

Amtrack train and passengers in station

by Robert Hale

This is an interesting anniversary year. The US National Park Idea (America’s Best Idea) is 140 years old; Amtrak is 40 years old. They are connected!

Let’s go back to the summer of 1957 for a snippet of a conversation: “If it weren’t for the railroads you and I might be selling newspapers. Take a long look at that down there.”

That’s Jack, my boss at the Great Northern Railroad desk in Glacier Park Lodge. A summer passenger agent – me, holding down a three-month long job – is listening intently to a man who knows the story.

Slowly rolling past the Glacier Park east entrance is the Empire Builder, with its sparkling new Great Domes. The Builder doesn’t stop at the park. That’s the duty of its sister train, the Western Star. The Star is an equally sleek streamliner (but without the domes) that runs between Chicago, and Seattle and Portland.

Jack’s not smiling. “Take a long look. You’ll never see another new car on the Great Northern, or any other line. That’s the end of it. We might be selling newspapers yet!”

Northern Pacific vintage illustrationIt all began when the Northern Pacific slammed down the last spike in 1882 and its trains started chugging passengers to Yellowstone. That event got the nation looking at itself – in person, first hand!

Early train travel was expensive. It was much like riding Amtrak today – beyond the budget of most Americans! But, that fit the plans of the railroads. The railroads knew that the more the wealthy rode, the quicker the fares could come down bringing more Americans to the rails. And to make sure that happened, the Northern Pacific went on an advertising campaign unlike anything seen before in the US and Europe. Magazine ads, newspaper ads, billboards and flyers – there wasn’t an advertising outlet the Northern Pacific missed. The NP could take travelers west to the parks and to the ocean.

The Northern Pacific saw potential profit from the vastness and emptiness of the Yellowstone area. To that end it not only promoted the geysers through advertising and word-of-mouth, it used every bit of political pressure it could muster to have the area declared a “national park.”

It is that “pressure” and the tactics employed by the railroad that moved Yellowstone’s late historian, Aubrey L. Haines, to excoriate the railroad. Heavy-handed, cajoling, threatening, exploiters, bad guys, devious, sly, cunning, Haines says of the NP.

But, one has to ask: “If not the railroad, then who?”

Haines then attacks the Northern Pacific for, “…the mundane purpose of making a profit, in this case by hauling tourists…” A profit…by hauling tourists. Hauling tourists, why the very thought of it…a really bad idea…almost evil! Mundane, indeed…But, a question: “If not a profit, than for what?”

There is one more evil characteristic of the railroad according to Haines: Monopoly! That’s been the operative word since the beginning of the railroads and the national parks. Hotels, buses, and service stations are each operated as a monopoly within the national parks…by law!

Make no mistake here; the Northern Pacific was in it all the way to make a profit – an idea that rankled historian Haines no end. What the motive of the railroad should have been he did not say.

For certain, along the way the NP manipulated, pressured, and buttonholed to get it’s way – and right-of-way – in Yellowstone. Business was, for good or evil, being conducted the way business was conducted in the 19th and early 20th centuries.

The NP invited artist Thomas Moran to visit the area and to help promote it as a tourist destination. Moran’s paintings of the falls marked the “beginning of the beginning” for America’s National Parks.

The Northern Pacific’s exploration and development of Yellowstone moved other railroads to “sell” the vistas and wild spectacles along their rights-of-way. The Southern Pacific pushed hard for the establishment of Yosemite, Sequoia, and General Grant National Parks. General Grant was eventually absorbed into Kings Canyon National Park.

Grand Canyon vintage travel posterThe Santa Fe railroad went “All the Way” to the Grand Canyon, where it built a luxury hotel and resort complex. The Union Pacific established itself on the opposite side of the canyon. The park facilities are still bringing in visitors by the thousands.

Eventually, Santa Fe, Union Pacific, Southern Pacific, Northern Pacific, Great Northern, Burlington, Milwaukee Road, Chicago and Northwestern, all had stops adjacent to, or relatively near various national parks.

In contrast to almost every other rail line, the Great Northern bought its own roadbed, not relying on federal government arrangements, as it laid down track to the west coast. In addition to hotels – in two countries, one must add – the Great Northern added several chalets along high mountain trails in Glacier Park to accommodate over-night hikers. Great Northern’s Western Star made two “front door” stops in Glacier National Park– East Glacier, and Belton on the western edge.

Taking a train to the national parks today is obviously not what it once was. Amtrak’s Empire Builder still makes the two Glacier Park stops. Amtrak will get you to Merced, California and then an Amtrak bus will transport you to Yosemite Valley. Amtrak’s Southwest Chief, a descendant of Santa Fe’s famous Chief and Super Chief trains, arrives in Williams, AZ where visitors can board the Grand Canyon Railway’s spiffy, shiny, and sleek service right to the rim! The latter is a daily excursion train – a delightful experience on a highly spruced up train. And that’s about it for train rides to the Parks!

So, while the famous delightful over-night experiences of comfy beds and pillows, expertly prepared meals, and the perfect pace for traveling are available on precious few Amtrak trains, the National Parks are still there, beckoning with their ageless wonders. And, if you plan it correctly, you can still fall asleep to the rhythm of the rails. So, Happy birthday National Park Service; Happy birthday Amtrak!

(Oh…and those newspapers Jack thought we might be selling… they’re in not doing so well either!)

 

If You Go:

Amtrak Train Travel Info: www.seat61.com/UnitedStates.htm

About the author:
Freelance writer, Bob Hale is a former Chicago radio and TV broadcaster. His college summers were spent in the passenger departments the Burlington Railroad in Chicago, and the Great Northern in Glacier National Park.

Photo credits:
Amtrak train and passengers by: National Archives at College Park / Public domain
Northern Pacific Montana poster illustration: Boston Public Library / Public domain

 

 

Tagged With: Amtrak travel, USA travel Filed Under: North America Travel

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