by Daniel Otero 

With a history spanning over 2,317 years. Chengdu is one of the oldest cities in the world. Second to none in China, it’s a place where thousands of foreigners reside from all over the world. It’s one of the Middle Kingdom’s most open cities in this western most portion of the country. In Chengdu everybody is from somewhere else.Chengdu is easy, people are laid back and enjoy the gorgeous cuisine.

When there’s a problem, everything is usually discussed or solved over a hotpot. People come to Chengdu to enjoy this city’s niceness. But more than that, it’s the cosmopolitan feel which this town holds.

In the historical arena, Chengdu, like the whole of Sichuan Province, has a past to be envied.

The city has three must see places: starting with Sichuan University, Dongmen Bridge and Jinli Park. These three are easily accessible for travelers and visitors who love to do walkabouts and use the metro.

Sichuan University is one of China’s oldest Universities. It ranks top fifteen in the nation, Coveted for its broad streets and sidewalks shaded with trees you can enjoy the University on a hot summer’s day. The buildings elegantly placed in a beautiful-multicolored style! This School really owes up to its name and reputation. You almost get the feel that you are walking into pagoda-styled temples instead of administration buildings. Sichuan University was established in 1896 and has continued to strive in the progress for excellence. A must see on the Huaxi Campus is the Bell Tower, built in a Gothic fashion in the year 1926. Its special just to sit and look at this lovely-brick layered structure covered in red and intense chalky-white gray.

Sichuan University can be reached easily on metro line 1 for an average of four RMB a single ride (about 20 Canadian cents). The subway stops at Huaxiba Station. Take exit C and walk a little less than 100 meters. The Campus has a classically-built entrance with Chinese characters on the left-hand side. Enjoy a nice 90-minute walk around the Campus.

Dongmen Bridge is another iconic structure in the city. It’s estimated that the Bridge went as a far back as the 13th Century, during Marco Polo’s visit to China. It was destroyed by a flood in the 1980s and rebuilt to its current-magnificent glory in the year 2003. To learn about Dongmen Bridge’s history, there’s a little museum and pagoda where you can view the Bridge and the Jin River. Take metro line 2 to Dongmen Bridge Station, then exit A, and it’s approximately a three-block walk to the site. Be aware, the official name of the Bridge is Anshun, meaning “peaceful and fluent” however, the locals call it Dongmen.

Jinli is another walk, built in the classical Qing Dynasty style, the architecture extends for over 550 meters of shops, bars, local places and eateries. It has beautiful rows of small streets, gardens; flowing with commercial and tourist traffic. However, be aware that Jinli in my opinion is just another tourist trap. A visitor can go just to get their curiosity out of the way and if you’re the typical ‘shopaholic’, you’ll enjoy it. It’s located on metro line 3, the stop is Gaoshenqiao (Gaoshen Bridge) Station.

Enjoy the fair city of Chengdu and if you are coming for a tour, do the above in a lazy-three days. It is well worth the experience, for its history and the memories you will take not only from the camera, but from the heart.

If You Go:

The best time to visit Chengdu is in the spring. Winters can be harsh and summers are extremely hot! Therefore, come when the weather is cooler. If you come to Chengdu, any local or foreigner living in the city will tell you, “You must have a hotpot!”

Further, if you’re Chinese is limited, carry a pocket dictionary in English and Chinese. It’ll be helpful during your visit; however, Chengdu locals are friendly and will try to help you. Also, most of the signs are in Chinese, but they have been translated to English to help you get around.

Private Chengdu Impression Day Tour including Chengdu Panda Base

About the author:
Daniel Otero has been living in China for the past eight years. He is currently employed as a full-time teacher and part-time freelance writer. After six years in Nanjing, he transferred to Chengdu to pursue another one of his dreams: to learn more about the western part of China and understand the Sichuan culture.

All photos are by Daniel Otero.

by Eleanor Herzog

As I hailed a taxi to take me to the nearest, least flea-ridden hostel, I looked around at the industrialized blocks that stretched out before me. Although I knew the first settlers named the area Tianfuzhi Guó, (The Country of Heaven) four thousand years ago, this reference didn’t sit easily with the veneer of dirt encrusting the buildings and occasional person. Still, as it was recently named as China’s fourth most liveable city, I was certain I would be able to unearth the cultural charm.

Ancient Wonders in Modern China

I started my search in Jinli Ancient Street, one of the few remaining spots where the vestiges of a rapidly disappearing culture are permitted to shine through, albeit under the strict control of the local tourist board. I walked along the cobbled streets determined to ignore the overhead neon lighting and pumping music.

Lining the antiquated streets, backed against the three story balconied buildings, tiny one-man stalls sell traditional fares. Makers of dragon shaped candy sticks neighbour paper cutting artists. In true Chinese style, every bit of space is exploited and it was hard to move without tripping over beggars, acrobatics or boom boxes.

Slightly spoiled for choice in terms of entertainment, I pushed my way through the masses, simultaneously drawn and repulsed by a high pitched warbling. Carefully manoeuvring around the youthful looking ear cleaners probing the ears of their worried looking customers, I pushed my way to the front of a crowd. I found Sichuanese male opera singers crescendoing to the finale of their highly costumed and theatrical show, their carefully applied makeup melting under the strain of the vocal effort and lighting.

Puppetry Through the Ages

It was when I was hanging around one of the quieter stalls that I truly felt like I had found a moment to enjoy the China that was spread over the glossy pages of the travel magazines. Beneath bobbing red lanterns and the dangling sea of wishes entwined within the branches of a clematis, a crowd gathered to watch the shadow play of the Hidden People.

The Hidden People, who operate the puppets from behind the flood lit screen, belong to a thousand year old tradition. They release part of their own soul to animate their puppets. The play of shadow upon light re-enacts traditional fairy tales in a symbolic dance that seems to pirouette straight into the hearts and minds of the entranced watchers.

Time to taste some of the local delicacies. I walked through the heavily scented smoke that swamped the BBQ street, stopping at every stall to question the vendors. Uncertain about my toneless Mandarin, the vendors simply nodded and let fly with the la jiao, the famed Sichuan spice that could knock the socks off even the most experienced traveller.

I took several risks and sat down to an outdoor feast of kung pao chicken, zhang fei beef, zhong boiled dumplings and mapo tofu. I tentatively tried my wares under the watchful eye of the smiling Chinese diners who, slightly sadistically, awaited my reaction. I certainly didn’t disappoint them.

Panda Country

The following day I decided to head to Chengdu’s must-see panda sanctuary. I eagerly welcomed the green haven after the polluted streets, yet it was still impossible to escape China’s infamous crowds. Through the throngs of tourists and clapping children, I eased my way to the front in time to see an incredibly docile panda obligingly pose for pictures next to newly-weds. They had tentatively entered the enclosure and now grinned into the flashing cameras.

For me, the highlight was not the slightly lonely looking pandas, but the smaller red pandas that moved with the dexterity of cats and responded to the calls of the tourists. When the park wardens were busy elsewhere, the crowds would entice them to stand on two legs and paw for food. My eyes locked momentarily with one panda’s fox like eyes, and for that fleeting instant I thought I saw an intelligence that seemed aware of its captive situation, yet was prepared to manipulate it cuteness to full advantage. I smiled, perhaps baring a few too many teeth and our mutual gaze was broken. She turned her back and padded away with the arched haughtiness I probably deserved.

Having had my fill of panda enclosures, I wandered down to the lake for green tea and noodles. It seemed even the massing fish had learnt to manipulate the tourists, and as I watched them writhing to the surface to chow down upon the tossed breadcrumbs, I wondered what this place would be like without the protection of the sanctuary. It seemed to me the only animals in the park that were not somehow manipulated by the crowds were the unusual black swans that glided across the surface of the lake. Necks outstretched and wings beating in harmony with their mates, they seemed oblivious to the snap happy tourists.

The following day I packed up my bag. My trip was to take me further North to the spectacular scenery of the Jiuzhai Valley. As I climbed back onto the minibus, dreading the bumpy journey that stretched out before me, I knew that the pockets of beauty I found in Chengdu would keep me warm as I hit the road again.

Private Chengdu Impression Day Tour including Chengdu Panda Base

If You Go:

Where To Stay

The Chengdu Mix Hostel is a real down to Earth place where you can have a beer with other travelers and sample the delicious banana pancakes. The friendly staff are incredibly helpful and are able to provide local information.

At the other end of the market is the Kempinski Hotel. Although expensive, for some travelers it is worth the price after an arduous journey. Situated close to the airport expressway and ring roads, it is also rather convenient.

The Chengdu Lazybones Backpacker Boutique Hostel must have derived its namesake from its central location. Boasting a six minute walk to the ‘Mao Statue’ and a one minute walk to ‘Luomashi’ Metro Station, the lazier travelers among us will never be far from comfort. In addition, the hostel the staff speak English to quite a high standard.

Where to Eat

Baguo Buyi Restaurant, located near Wu Hou Temple, offers a house specialty known as Yuer Shao Jiayu. This adventurous dish combines stewed tarot with a gelatinous green turtle.
Qiang Jiao Jiao means “the corner of a wall”. Accurately named, this kebab/skewer vendor is hidden down a tiny alley that leads off Niu Wang Miao Street. If you are lucky enough to find it, you will have the privilege of tasting some of the best chuan chuans in town.

At Lao Ma Tou Hot Pot on Yulin Central Street is home to some of the fieriest Sichuanese hot pot in Chengdu. Be prepared for raucous clientele, unusual ingredients and a burning tongue.

Transport

The Chengdu Shuangliu International Airport (CTU) is in the southwest of Chengdu City. It is about 20 kilometers from the center of Chengdu City.
Chengdu is home to the largest railway hub in southwest China and transports thousands of passengers back and forth everyday. It is relatively convenient to navigate around.
Chengdu has several main coach stations including Chengdu Bus Station (Wugui Bridge Bus Station), New South Gate Bus Station, Beimen (North Gate) Bus Station, Ximen (West Gate) Bus Station, Dongmen (East Gate) Bus Station, Gaosuntang Bus Station, and Chadianzi Bus Station.

 

About the author:
Alongside other projects, Eleanor Herzog attempts the odd bit of writing. Her current projects are focused upon Asian cultural documentation and she is particularly interested in endeavors that prioritize development in their approach. Her assignments include television writing and production, travel writing, features, reviews, short stories and photography. Her work takes her all over the world as she prioritizes meeting and creating strong relations with the people she is writing about. For more, please visit her website: www.eleanorherzog.wordpress.com

All photos are by Eleanor Herzog.
More pictures at: www.flickr.com/photos/eleanorherzog