Greece travel | Travel Thru History

In the Footsteps of St. Paul Through Mainland Greece

by Troy Herrick

Almost two thousand years ago the world was changed forever by the teachings of Jesus and his death and resurrection. Very special people were later entrusted with spreading the message of salvation and eternal life. One of these was the charismatic Paul of Tarsus who worked tirelessly as a missionary to spread the Gospel. He possibly became the most important person after Jesus in the history of the church but how do you summarize his life in just a few words? He was a devout Jew, Roman citizen, prosecutor of Christians, witness of Christ, evangelist, Equal-to-the-Apostles, Apostle of the Nations and martyr. He was also the first Christian missionary to spread the Gospel into Europe by way of Greece as detailed in the book of the Acts of the Apostles.

The route of Paul’s second missionary journey through Greece is inspirational for both pilgrims and history buffs alike. It all began with a dream in which a Macedonian man invites Paul to visit Macedonia to help them (Acts 16:9). With this, Paul set sail for Neapolis (present-day Kavala) in the winter of 49 CE. He quickly passed through the city, exiting by way of the Via Egnatia, the main road through Macedonia at the time. His destination was Philippi, the most important Roman settlement in the region (Acts 16:11).

Paul spread the good news in Philippi and baptised his first convert, a business woman named Lydia, in the Gangites River just outside the city (Acts 16:14-15). The Baptistry of St. Lydia, located near the river, commemorates the event. Inside, I was overwhelmed by the colourful icons and mosaics on the walls, arches and ceiling depicting scenes from the life of St. Paul. At the center of the octagonal interior, right under the dome, is a whitish gray baptismal font used for infant baptisms (adults are baptised in the river).

Paul became Lydia’s houseguest during his eventful stay in Philippi. While preaching in the city, he cast out a demon from a slave-soothsayer (Acts 16:18). Her owners then had Paul dragged in front of the city officials after having lost their primary source of revenue. Paul faced the city officials in the marketplace (Acts 16:19-20), likely at the bema. The bema is a raised platform on which officials stood or sat as they listened to charges and passed sentence. The bema of Philippi is now a poorly defined pile of rocks with some grassy overgrowth. If you follow the Via Egnatia, which runs along the length of the Roman agora, you will pass right beside the bema.

The Book of Acts may be inaccurate when it indicates that Paul’s sentencing occurred in the marketplace and therefore should not be accepted as Gospel. The agora of Philippi was the political, administrative and religious area of the city but it was not the commercial marketplace. The commercial marketplace is now largely buried beneath the ruins of the 6th century CE structure known as Basilica B. You will find the ruins of several retail shops on the north side of this basilica, but none have been dated to the time of Paul.

Paul and his companions were beaten and sent to the inner prison (Acts 16:23-24). The traditional site of Paul’s prison cell is the arched Roman cistern set under the atrium of the late 5th century CE structure known as Basilica A. Looking down inside you find a small column section and several stone blocks. The right side-wall may have been decorated with a fresco at one time.

A great earthquake damaged the prison and allowed Paul to escape (Acts 16:26). After baptising the jailer and his family, he traveled on to Thessaloniki by way of the Via Egnatia. Paul passed through Amphipolis and Apollonia without stopping in either city.

The Via Egnatia would have brought Paul into Thessaloniki near the present-day Arch of Galerius (constructed between 298-305 CE). The only sites that he visited in Thessaloniki were the house of Jason, of whom nothing is known, and the synagogue (Acts 17:1-6) where he roused the anger of the local Jewish community. He then moved on to the synagogue in Berea (present-day Veria) with the Jews of Thessaloniki in pursuit shortly after (Acts 17:13). Paul managed to escape to Athens by boat.

Paul’s first impression of Athens was revulsion of the idolatry (Acts 17:16). Imagine him walking around through the Ancient Agora and seeing the Temple of Hephaestos, now the best-preserved temple in Greece, or looking up at the Acropolis toward the Parthenon. He limited his exposure to pagan practices by spending his time debating in the synagogue and in the marketplace (Acts 17:17).

The commercial marketplace had been situated in the Roman Agora since the reign of Augustus (27 BCE-14 CE). You will find the ruins of several shops on the east side of the Roman Agora near the octagonal “Tower of the Winds”, but it is not clear if these date to the time of Paul.

Various philosophers heard Paul’s message and wished to know more, so they invited him to address the High Court at its meeting place known as the Areopagus. Here Paul succeeded in turning Dionysios the Areopagite into a believer (Acts 17:18-34).

The Areopagus is a rocky outcropping, 115 meters high, located below the west side of the Acropolis. I climbed the craggy, slippery rocks to the summit as Paul would have done, but there is also a modern stairway if you feel it is safer. The Areopagus is also the only indisputable present-day site connected with Paul’s second journey.

Paul departed Athens for Corinth (Acts 18:1). Once in the city, he set up a tentmaking shop with two Jewish exiles from Rome (Acts 18:2-4). Operating a shop in commercial marketplace would have provided Paul with many opportunities to speak with customers and passersby about Jesus. On the north side of the ancient agora, near the Temple of Apollo, are the remnants of sixteen shops dating to the mid 1st century CE. The shop with the vaulted arch was a church at one time. Could this have been the traditional site of Paul’s tent shop? This is only speculation but, as in Philippi, houses of worship are sometimes constructed over sacred sites. Coincidentally, a priest was saying mass under a tree just a short distance away from this site as I passed by.

Paul taught in the synagogue on each sabbath and again aroused the anger of the local Jewish community. They brought him before the Roman Proconsul Gallio at the place of judgement (Acts 18:12-16), the bema, charged with subversive teaching. Gallio dismissed the charges.

The bema consists of a raised rectangular stone platform with six layers of finished stone and a stone slab on its eastern side which features a quote from Second Corinthians 4:17. I climbed the stairs to the top and found four pieces of marble that were once part of the lower section of a doorway (propylon).

After spending 18 months in Corinth, Paul departed for Ephesus by way of the nearby port of Cenchreae (modern-day Kechries). The South Stoa, which dates to the time of Paul, touches the road to Cenchreae, just to the left of the bouleuterion or council chamber.

Paul would eventually return to Corinth and Philippi in the years to come. The seeds that he sowed on his second missionary journey would grow into the official religion of the Roman Empire in 313 CE.

If You Go:

Philippi:

The Archeological Site of Philippi is approximately 15 kilometers inland from Kavala. Admission (including the museum) is 6 Euros.

The town of Lydia is just outside the archeological site of Philippi. Admission the Baptistry of St. Lydia is free. The location of Lydia’s house is not known.

Day Tour of Philippi, Amphipolis, and Kavala

Thessaloniki:

The Arch of Galerius is located near the intersection of Egnatia and Dimitriou.

The locations of the synagogue and Jason’s house are not known.

Veria:

The location of the synagogue is not known.

Athens:

The Temple of Hephaestos is located within the Ancient Agora.

The location of the synagogue is not known.

You can purchase a combination ticket for 30 Euros that allows you to visit a number of sites in Athens including the Acropolis, the Ancient Agora and the Roman Agora.

Admission to the Areopagus is free.

Private Tour: Ancient Agora of Athens Walking Tour

Corinth:

The Corinth of Paul’s time is approximately 7 kilometers away from the modern city of Corinth. Admission to the site of Ancient Corinth is 8 Euros.

The location of the synagogue is not known.

Ancient Corinth, Corinth Canal, Mycenae, Epidaurus, Nafplio: Private day Tour

About the author:

Troy Herrick, a freelance travel writer, has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. His articles have appeared in Live Life Travel, International Living, Offbeat Travel and Travels Thru History Magazines.

Photographs:

Diane Gagnon, a freelance photographer, has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. Her photographs have accompanied Troy Herrick’s articles in Live Life Travel, Offbeat Travel and Travels Thru History Magazines.

A Pleasant Afternoon at the Stavros Niarchos Cultural Center, Athens

by W. Ruth Kozak

If you are visiting Athens, Greece and want a change from the bustling areas of Plaka and Monastiraki or browsing archaeological sites, hop a trolley or bus and head out to the coast to spend a relaxing afternoon at the stunning new Stavros Niarchos Cultural Center.

Designed by architect Renzo Piano and funded by the Stavros Niarchos Foundation, the €566 million project, completed in 2016, was donated to the Greek state in 2017. The Center includes the Greek National Library, the National Opera House, and an expansive park, built on the former site of an old racetrack.

Stavros Niarchos was a multi-billionaire Greek shipping tycoon who was also noted as a thoroughbred horse breeder. When he died in 1996 in Zurich, his fortune was estimated to be worth in excess of $22 billion. Half was left to a charitable trust to be established in his name, and it was from this trust that the Stavros Niarchos Center was built for the enjoyment of the people of Athens.

My friend and I spent a pleasant day at the Center exploring the many amenities, enjoying the lovely views from the rooftop garden/restaurant and browsing the gardens.

We took the tram from Athens and walked to the main entrance across a bridgeway. A canal runs beside the centre where small sailboats drift lazily and kayakers paddle along its length. The 400 meter sea-water canal creates a refreshing place where people can relax or learn to sail and kayak. At night it’s a venue for live jazz and sometimes tango classes.

The architect used rubble to create a slope that doubles as a green roof for the Greek National Library and Opera House. At the top of the roof is a glass observatory with a solar canopy that powers the building below. The building covers nearly 24,000 sq m (235-000 sq ft) and combines traditional with technological innovation.

The Greek National Opera launched its new era at the Center last year premiering its first production with Richard Strauss’ one act opera Elektra. The new facilities provide state-of-the-art acoustics and consist of two auditoriums, a large Main Stage (1400 seats) which hosts operas, concert and ballet and a smaller Alternative Stage (450 seats) that will be used for stage productions, in particular musical theater.

At the entrance of the main building there is a display of photos and exhibits from Greece’s first modern Olympics, held in 1896, when Spyros Louis, a 21-year old water-carrier from Marousi won the first marathon run in modern times. The marathon is now held yearly in remembrance of the first runner in 490 BC who ran from Marathon to Athens to announce the Greek’s victory over the invading Persian fleet. The silver goblet presented to Louis is among the displays. The goblet, financed by French philhellene Michael Brael, is adorned with birds and aquatic plants, a reminder of those that once flourished in the Marathon marshland. The cup was purchased from the Louis’ family heirs in 2012 by the Spyros Niarchos Foundation for €600,000.

Upon entering the Center there are a number of open areas to explore including a coffee shop, lounge areas with comfortable settees and chairs and a large computer room as well as a vast library. The area creates a hospitable environment so it’s a good place for relaxing and enjoying the amenities.

The library shelves were empty the day we visited but have recently been stocked with books. Its new location, the National Library of Greece, founded in 1832, includes an exclusive research facility and an all-inclusive public resource enter. The library supports patrons of all ages and education from academics to children and young adults.

The entrance to the library’s new premises leads to a large open lobby. The public library section has a significant book collection as well as other media and includes separate areas for adults, teenagers and children offering a wide range of educational and cultural programs. The natural light creates a pleasant environment and the new design of the library meets the needs of the digital age. Research collections are housed in a central location with convenient access for researchers and scholars. Over 4,500 manuscripts from the 9th to the 19th century and a variety of important historical documents and archives are housed in the library. It will also function as a venue for exhibits, and a Business Center will provide the public with a resource for research, offering computer workstations, laptops and wireless connections. Events and seminars are hosted for both children and adults and classes will incorporate natural learning opportunities which will include programs outdoors at the Stavros Niarchos Park as well.

The roof of the library is actually part of a garden and on the upper patio there is a restaurant. From there you can enjoy the views of the picturesque surrounding area. The Center is built on an incline facing Athens, so to view the Bay of Faliron and the sea we took the elevator to the top of the opera house rather than walk up the hill to the small observation area.

After visiting inside the Center we went out to explore the grounds and enjoy a picnic lunch under the shade of an olive tree. The park is a labyrinth of foot paths and roadways that lead past olive groves, orchards, plots of flowers as well as herb and vegetable gardens. A large green space playing field provides an area for sports or leisure. On the day we visited, groups of Syrian refugees and their children were playing on the grass and enjoying the cool spray of the fountains. There are bikes for rent, an outdoor theatre and lots of places for children to enjoy themselves while their parents relax in the shade.

Except for opera tickets and bike rentals, everything is free at the Centre including tours and activities such as crafts, chess, computer instructions and gardening lessons.

We walked the length of the gardens to the back entrance of the park where we caught a bus back into the city. Our visit to the Stavros Niarchos Center was an interesting change from the busy cacophony of the city and a relaxing way to spend the afternoon.

If You Go:

Stavros Niarchos Cultural Center

Starvos Niarchos

Olympic Games Athens 1896

Private Tour: Ancient and Contemporary Athens Walking Tour

HOW TO GET THERE:

By Bus:

From Athens Center: Lines B2 550 pass through the metro station Sygrou. Get off at the Onasseio stop on Sygrou ave, head south in the direction of the sea up to Evripidou St.

From Kiffissia: Lines B2, 550. Get off at Eugenidio stop on Sygrou Ave northbound and pass through the underground pedestrian pass toward Kallithea.

From Pireaus: Lines A1, B1: get off at the Tzitzifies stop on Ethnarchou Makrariou Ave. walk down toward Glyfada the left onto Epaninontas st and right onto Peisistraotu St.

4-Night Athens Private Grand Tour

By Tram:

From downtown get off at Tzitzifies stop, walk toward Navarou Votsi St. and turn right at Peistitstratou and Sahtouri St for the entrance through parking lot.

By Trolley:

No. 10 from Halandri Sqaure to the Epaminonda stop. Walk towards Peisistratou and Sahtouris St to entrance through parking lot.

By Car:

You can drive to the Niarchos Centre. There are signs on Sygrou and Poseidonas Ave. and there is a large parking area.

Athens Half-Day Private Minivan Tour

About the author:

W. Ruth Kozak is an avid traveler to Greece and likes to explore new places each time she goes there. This visit to the Stavros Niarchos Cultural Centre was one of the highlights of a recent trip.

All photos by W. Ruth Kozak

Greece: The Temple of Aphaia, Aegina

by Karen B. Phillips

When you think about magnificent ancient Greek temples, the Parthenon, the Erechtheum, and the other structures on the Acropolis in Athens always come to mind. Perhaps less known to many, but very well-preserved and impressive in its own right, is the Temple of Aphaia, located on a hilltop in a pine grove on the northeast point of the Greek island of Aegina, in the Saronic Gulf. Aegina is approximately 19 miles (30 km) southwest of the Port of Piraeus near Athens.

The Temple of Aphaia forms part of what has been called the “Sacred Triangle of Temples,” along with the Parthenon in Athens and the Temple of Poseidon at Sounion. The equilateral triangle formed by these three ancient temples also has been termed “Antiquity’s Perfect Triangle.”

The temple was dedicated to the goddess Aphaia, a mountain and hunting goddess who also protected shipping, which was important on Aegina given the significance of shipping to the island’s prosperity. There are variations of the legend about Aphaia, but all seem to agree that as she was attempting to escape from a man who had fallen in love with her (perhaps King Minos of Crete), she threw herself into the sea off the coast of Aegina.

Unfortunately, she became entangled in fishing nets and was hauled aboard a boat. When a sailor on the boat fell in love with her, she fled again, jumping overboard and swimming ashore on Aegina. As she made her way up the hill to the pine forests, she disappeared and was never seen again. The name Aphaia comes from the Greek word afandos, which means one who has vanished.

Aegina was a major sea power after the seventh century B.C. because of its strategic position and its commerce with other countries, such as Egypt and Phoenicia. The Temple of Aphaia, which is the only known site of worship of the goddess Aphaia, was constructed during this period of dominance. The current temple, erected around 500 B.C., was built over the remains of an earlier temple that had been destroyed by fire in 510 B.C. Experts believe there may be been an even earlier temple on the site, and figurines have also been found on the site from the 14th century B.C. from the Minoan civilization.

The temple was constructed of local grey limestone, and it was covered with stucco that was painted with pigments. The temple is in the Doric style of architecture, with six columns on the ends and 12 columns on the flanks resting on a roughly 50 by 100 foot (15.5 by 30.5 meter) platform; of the temple’s original 32 columns, 25 remain standing today. The temple’s 1:2 proportional relationship was different from other temples of this era, and the temple also incorporated some architectural refinements, with more slender columns that are spaced farther apart than typically seen in Doric temples.

The temple’s east and west pediments featured painted sculptures depicting scenes of battles fought by heroes from Aegina during the Trojan War. These were removed from the site in 1811 during the initial excavations of the temple. Purchased in 1813 by Prince Ludwig I of Bavaria, the pediment sculptures now are displayed in the Glyptothek Museum in Munich. Several smaller sculptures from the complex are exhibited on Aegina and at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens.

In ancient times, the Temple of Aphaia was situated in the center of a stone enclosure wall. In addition to the temple, the sanctuary complex included an altar and a series of buildings that served the needs of the temple, including the priests’ residence. On the northern side, a cistern collected rain water from the roof of the temple and near the cistern was a large column topped by a sphinx, which was believed to have been built around 600 B.C. Experts also believe that a wooden statue of Aphaia may have stood at a distance from the temple, but only its base remains today.

The importance of the temple declined rapidly from the middle of the fifth century B.C. as Athens became more dominant and Aegina’s power began to wane. Experts believe some repairs to the temple were made in the fourth century B.C., but by the end of the second century B.C., the area was abandoned.

On the sunny summer afternoon that I walked up a small hill beyond the entrance to the sanctuary complex to the Temple of Aphaia, I couldn’t help but feel as if I had stepped back in time. My husband and I had arrived at a fortuitous time: there were no tour groups at the site, so it was very quiet and the perfect opportunity to experience the majestic ruins and to contemplate how the sanctuary complex must have looked in ancient times. In fact, other than my husband and myself, we saw only one other tourist at the site, so we were free to explore the temple at our leisure and take in the beautiful vistas. The temple complex is located on a hill about 525 feet (160 meters) high, which provides magnificent views of the Saronic Gulf and the surrounding wooded hills. In fact, you can see the Acropolis across the water to the northeast from the Temple of Aphaia on a clear day.

The temple has remained visible and imposing for the many centuries after its abandonment. Artists, including the British painter J.M.W. Turner, have been inspired by the Temple of Aphaia to create beautiful works. The temple truly is an architectural wonder of ancient Greece and well worth a visit. Perhaps you, too, will find inspiration at this fascinating site!

If You Go:

Aegina is roughly 19 miles (30 km) from Athens and makes an excellent day trip, but if you have more time, there is plenty to do on the island for a few days. Boat service from the Port of Piraeus to Aegina Town is frequent; the ferries take about an hour for the journey, while the smaller hydrofoil boats take about 40 minutes. Buses and taxicabs to the Temple of Aphaia are available from the plaza outside the ferry dock in Aegina Town. The Temple is approximately 7 miles (12 km) from Aegina Town, and admission to the site is €6.

About the author:
After a professional career in the government and the corporate sector, Karen B. Phillips has turned her writing focus to travel and fiction and also is an avid photographer.

All photographs by Karen B. Phillips

Temple of Aphaia
The Temple of Aphaia from the east
The Temple of Aphaia, from the west
Statues from the east pediment of the Temple of Aphaia, displayed at the Glyptothek Museum in Munich, Germany
A model of the Temple of Aphaia sanctuary complex, displayed at the Glyptothek Museum
View of the surrounding area from the Temple of Aphaia complex

Greece: An Inspiring Day at the Achilleion, Corfu

by Ruth Kozak

I’m standing in a beautiful courtyard overlooking a panoramic view of flowering gardens, a green forested hillside and far below, the sparkling blue Ionian Sea. Surrounding me stand the Muses: all nine of them. I’m next Erato, the Muse of poetry. Beside her Terpsichore holds her harp and Melpomine smiles silently. This is the magnificent peristyle of the Achilleion Palace, once the home of Elisabeth, Empress of Austria and Queen of Hungary. The peristyle is dominated by the nine marble Muses together with states of Apollo and the three Graces.

Elisabeth, known fondly as “Sisi” was the daughter of Duke Max of Bavaria and his wife Ludovika. As a child she was shy and not considered pretty but she grew to be a vibrant, attractive young woman who shared a love of the ‘lower classes’ with her father, and enjoyed long walks and horseback riding. At the age of sixteen she became the wife of the Emperor Franz Joseph of Austria and was named Queen of Hungary and Bohemia. However, Franz Joseph, it seems, was a ‘mama’s boy’ and clung to his own mother, who took over the care of the couples two daughters, Sophie and Gisela, who were kept in a nursery near the grandmother’s apartments and raised by attendants chosen by their grandmother.

Sisi had little part in their upbringing and almost no contact with the little girls, but during a state visit to Hungary she insisted that the children accompany her. Unfortunately, they became ill and little Sophie died. This misfortune was used by Sisi’s mother-in-law as proof that the young Empress was unfit to be a mother. Her eagerly awaited son, the Crown Prince Rudolf was born a year later but he was also taken into to the care of his grandmother. A third daughter, Marie Valerie was born in 1868 and unlike with the first three children, Elisabeth insisted on raising Mari Valerie herself.

Her only son, Crown Prince Rudolf, was never close to her when he was growing up although he shared her liberal, anti aristocracy, republican beliefs. He was a precocious, delicate young man who feared military training. He’d had an even worse relationship with his father who had refused to allow him to attend university Despondent and rejected, he and his 17-year-old mistress had committed suicide in his hunting lodge. Elisabeth blamed herself because she had not shown him more support. From the time of his death, she wore mourning clothes for the rest of her life.

After the wedding of her youngest daughter in 1890, Elisabeth started spending more time away from Vienna. Following a visit to Corfu she decided that this was a perfect location for her to build a palace. The design was meant to represent an ancient Phaecian palace. It was designed by Italian architect Raffaele Caritto and built on a 200,000-square metre area that Elisabeth’s husband had owned. Ernst Herter, a famous German sculptor was commissioned to create works inspired from Greek mythology such as his famous sculpture, Dying Achilles, that forms the centrepiece of the Achilleion Gardens. She also had a cenotaph in memory of her son placed in the Achillean garden which she was able to see from the peristyle.

From the courtyard of the Muses I walk down the marble steps into the lush garden. In front of me is the magnificent life-sized sculpture of the dying Achilles, his eyes gazing skyward as if supplicating help of from Olympus. Around me are flowering bushes and palm trees, the solitude broken by the chirring of birds. At the foot of the garden there’s an imposing bronze statue of Achilles standing guard surrounded by palm trees. He’s wearing full hoplite armour and brandishing a sword. This statue was commissioned after the Achilleion passed to the ownership of Kaiser Wilhelm in 1907. He also placed a life-size statue of Elisabeth in the garden in her memory.

That morning I spent browsing the ornately decorated rooms of the palace. Empress Elisabeth loved Greece, its language and culture and the palace was designed with the legendary hero Achilles as its central theme. She admired the Troy hero and said: “I want a palace pillared with colonnades and hanging gardens, protected from prying glances – a palace worthy of Achilles who despised all mortals and did not fear even the gods.”

The palace abounds with Classic Greek statues and paintings honoring Achilles. As you enter, there is a staircase with statues of Zeus and Hera. On the right is a portrait of Empress Elisabeth was regarded as one of the most beautiful women in Europe. The ceiling is decorated with a beautiful fresco depicting the “Four Seasons” The upper level of the Main Hall is dominated by a famous painting “The Triumph of Achilles” by Franz von Matsch. In it Achilles is seen dragging Hector’s lifeless body in front of the Gates of Troy.

The Empress’s Catholic chapel is one of the most impressive rooms with its dome-shaped ceiling depicting the Trial of Jesus. In another room known as the “Arcade of the Wise Men’ there are thirteen busts of ancient philosophers and one of Shakespeare.

I wandered into Elisabeth’s room where there is memorabilia and paintings of the Empress and her husband together with records from her assassination. After the wedding of her third daughter, Maria Valerie, the Empress had started to travel, usually under an assumed name. Tragically, during an overnight stay in Geneva, 1898, her presence in the city was announced in the newspaper. As she was walking from her hotel to her ship on which she was to leave for France, she was accosted by an Italian anarchist, Luigi Lucheni, who had come to Geneva with the intention of assassinating the Prince of Orleans. When the Prince failed to arrive, Lucheni chose her as his victim, in spite of knowing, nor caring that she shared his opinions on aristocracy. He stabbed her with a sharp file puncturing a tiny hole in her heart that went un-noticed until she later fainted from loss of blood and it was too late for the doctors to save her life. Luchini was sentenced to life in prison but hanged himself in 1910. After Elisabeth’s death the Achilleion stayed closed for nine years until it was sold by her daughter who had inherited it, to the German Emperor Kaiser Wilhelm II.

As I stand in front of the marble statue of Achilles, dying of the mortal wound to his heel inflicted by Paris, I think of this brave, beautiful woman who had such a zest for life and a love of nature and art who so tragically died by an assassin’s hand. I have been inspired by the beauty she created here at the Achilleon and feel privileged to have been a ‘guest’ in her sanctuary with the Muses and her hero, Achilles.

If You Go:

About the Achilleion:
The palace became a centre of European diplomacy until the outbreak of World War I when it was used as a military hospital by the French and Serbian troops. After the war ended, it came into the possession of the Greek State as part of the war reparations in 1919. From 1921 to 1924 the palace housed the Save the Children Fund orphanage. During the years 1941-1944 the palace was used by the Italian and German occupation forces as a military headquarters, but at the end of the war was returned to the Greek State. In 1962 the Achilleion was leased out, and the upper floors were turned into a casino. The casino scene in the James Bond film For Your Eyes Only was filmed at the Achilleion. By 1983 the palace came under the management of the Greek Tourism Organisation and was restored to a museum and used for the European Union Summit. Ever since, the Achilleion has been used as a museum and a venue for various events.

How to get to the Achillion, Corfu

Biography of Elisabeth

About the author:
W. Ruth Kozak is a travel journalist and historical fiction writer and the former editor/publisher of Travel Thru History. She loves to visit Greece and enjoys writing about the history of that beautiful country. Ruth’s historical novel about the fall of Alexander the Great’s dynasty SHADOW OF THE LION, is available in two volumes on Amazon.com – SHADOW OF THE LION: THE FIELDS OF HADES and in its entirety as a Kindle ebook.

All photos by W. Ruth Kozak

Greece: The Diros Caves, a Prehistoric Treasure

by W. Ruth Kozak

It’s as though I have entered a vast underground cathedral, perhaps one created by Gaudi, because of the way the vaulted ceilings drip with wax-like stalactites. Everything is diffused with colour, as if light has filtered through stained glass windows. The only sound is the soft dipping of the boatman’s paddle and the hollow echo of voices.

I am inside the Diros Caves located in the Bay of Diros on the western coast of the Lakonian peninsula of the Mani in the southern Peloponnese of Greece. The twenty-five minute tour is 1500 metres underground, the first part by punt on an underwater lake, and later by foot. The Caves are among of the largest in the world, an underground wonderland.

The cave was formed thousands of years ago. The stalactites and stalagmites now beneath the water were formed when the sea level was much lower. The cave has been known to locals since about 1900 but was not opened to visitors until 1967. Explorations continue including cave diving to explore under water.

Temperatures inside the caves range from 16C to 20C and it’s a refreshing respite from the heat of the July morning. I have entered through the narrow passageway to the underground lake and got fitted with a life jacket before boarding the little punt that takes me and other tourists on our magical journey.

The first cave is known as the Glifada Cave, one of the most beautiful lakes caves in the world. Brilliant white stalactites and stalagmites glitter from the ceiling and rise from the water like crystal drapes. Water seeps into the cracks of limestone and drips into the underground lake, making a pleasant trickling sound. The passages are sometimes so low and narrow we have to duck our heads as the punt slides underneath and we enter another breathtaking cavern. The boatman tells us to keep our hands inside and not to touch anything in the caves.

Significant anthropological findings from the Neolithic age have been discovered here including pottery, providing evidence of prehistoric men. Fossilized bones of panthers, hyenas, lions, deer, ferrets and the largest collection of hippopotamus bones in Europe have also been found in the caves.

At the end of the boat ride, we enter the vast cavern of the Aleopotripa Cave. I can’t help but gasp at the sight as it is like a vaulted Gothic apse and evokes a feeling of awe. As I walk through with the other tourists, we are warned not to break off any of the stalactites. This is the cave where the evidence of prehistoric men was found and at the exit there is a small Stone Age museum containing the artifacts, which date back 6000 years.

The Diros Caves are protected by the Greek National Tourist Organization and are an integral and significant part of the Greek cultural heritage. They are among the most important natural sites in Greece. I hadn’t expected to visit them when I traveled to the Mani so that day was a special bonus and one that I’ll never forget!

If You Go:

You can take a bus, or drive via Sparti from Gythion in the south Peloponnese. The Caves are an hour drive from Gythion.

The Caves are open to visitors 8.30 am to 4.30 pm from June to September, 8.30 am to 3.00 pm October to May.

http://www.thegreektravel.com/lakonia/diros.html

About the author:
Ruth is a travel journalist and historical writer who spends most of her vacations in Greece. She instructs workshops on travel writing and encourages new writings to submit to the travel ‘zine TRAVEL THRU HISTORY. Ruth has a travel guide to Athens available on Kindle, Athens & Beyond and two volumes of a published historical novel about the fall of Alexander the Great’s dynasty: SHADOW OF THE LION: BLOOD ON THE MOON and SHADOW OF THE LION: THE FIELDS OF HADES available from Amazon.com or the Book Depository.

Photo credits:
First photo by George Fournaris / CC BY-SA
All other photos by W. Ruth Kozak