Italian Renaissance Gem in Steamy Miami

by Suzanne Ball

When people think of Miami, they picture sunny beaches, vibrant nightlife, art deco, and authentic Cuban food. But they often miss the chance to visit one of the country’s most historical mansions and example of Italian Renaissance style: Villa Vizcaya, described as “the finest private house ever built in America.”

Now called Vizcaya Museum and Gardens, the estate was the dream of millionaire James Deering, heir of the International Harvester fortune. One of America’s original “snowbirds,” Deering began planning his winter residence in 1910. He chose 180 acres of primeval jungle, a few miles south of Miami, directly on Biscayne Bay. He envisioned guests approaching and first seeing the Main House by water, and wanted it to be near the shore so they could disembark as if in Venice. “Place my house on the bay,” he directed the architect.

Vizcaya was designed with an open central courtyard, surrounded by four towers. Although the exterior duplicates 18th century Italian architecture, the building was constructed with 20th century techniques to adapt to Miami’s subtropical climate. Deering was a trained engineer and insisted on a concrete structure with steel-enforced floors to combat humidity, decay, and termites. He included modern features such as an elevator, telephones, and an “annunciator” to beckon servants from anywhere in the house.

Construction on the Main House began in 1914 and was ready for Deering on Christmas Day, 1916. During the height of construction, Vizcaya hired ten percent of Miami’s workforce, as well as craftsmen and artists from Europe. Witold Rybczynski, Professor of Urbanism at University of Pennsylvania, explains the level of detail involved: “There are thousands of craftsmen and workers and iron work and the [roof] tiles came from Cuba … there were old homes in Cuba and they bought the whole roof and shipped them over because they liked the sort of old patina on these clay tiles so it was a very, very thought out project.”

Deering was a renowned and extravagant host. His many guests included actress Lilian Gish, Henry Ford, and President Warren G. Harding. He placed a concrete barge in the bay and used gondolas or motor boats to transport guests for tea and cocktails. He also arranged for concerts and fireworks from the barge, and guests would watch from the shore. Originally, in true Venetian manner, the barge and gardens were accessed by canals. Deering would guide visitors through the canals, ending at the barge or the nearby gazebo.

Then there is the Main House. Over 38,000 square feet, with 54 rooms. Today, visitors can view 34 decorated rooms with more than 2,500 original furnishings and art collections. Each formal room has a theme, color palate and lavish furnishings, often based on different Italian cities or historical periods. On the main floor, Milan inspired the Music Room; Palermo provides a Southern Italy influence in the Reception Room. Deering’s bedroom is furnished in the masculine style of the Napoleanic era. Visitors are astounded at the opulence of this winter residence, meant to be inhabited from November till the start of Lent.

Enormous quantities of Italian antiques and artwork were shipped to Vizcaya, overseen by Deering’s artistic director, Paul Chalfin. Chaflin was fluent in Italian and an expert in Italian furniture and decorative arts. Upon meeting, Deering and Chaflin struck an immediate friendship that lasted until Deering’s death. Vizcaya would be Chaflin’s only significant commission, yet an outstanding legacy.

A lifelong bachelor, Deering installed many activities that could especially be enjoyed by male guests; the swimming pool featured a covered grotto that extended into the sunlight. Today’s gift shop and café were once a bowling alley, billiards, smoking, and changing rooms. During a 2011 renovation after Hurricane Wilma caused extensive damage in 2005, care was taken to maintain the original marble and terrazzo floors, copper lighting fixtures, and leaded-glass doors.

Deering also wanted formal European gardens, adapted to the Florida climate and flora. The garden design included Deering’s favorite flower, orchids, with 2,000 specimens placed throughout the estate, and now in the new David A. Klein Orchidarium. The gardens were completed in 1923. Deering would only live for two more years to enjoy his magnificent estate. Suffering from pernicious anemia for years, he died on a steamship returning from Paris in 1925.

The ten acres of formal gardens are spectacular and well-maintained. Local coral stone was used for stairs and planters, with influences from Florence and Rome. Reflecting pools and well-trimmed hedges are abundant. Statues from 18th century villas in Italy decorate the gardens, along with antique busts and vases.

Vizcaya is a popular location for photography, especially for bridal and quinceañera (the celebration of a Latina girl’s 15th birthday) events. It has also been the venue for political meetings, including the 1987 meeting between president Ronald Reagan and Pope John Paul II, and the 1984 Summit of the Americas hosted by President Bill Clinton.

2016 is the Centennial of this National Historic Landmark. In the humid climate, preservation of the Main House and its furnishings is ongoing. Vizcaya Museum and Gardens is now maintained by the Miami-Dade County.

Transportation to Vizcaya Museum and Gardens

If You Go:

♦ Viscaya Museum and Gardens is located at 3251 South Miami Avenue, Miami, FL 33129. Parking is free.
♦ From downtown Miami, Vizcaya is 2.6 miles, about 7 minutes. From Miami Beach, 11 miles, 21 minutes. From South Beach, 8.7 miles, 17 minutes.
♦ Hours: open daily 9:30 am to 4:30 pm, except Tuesdays, Thanksgiving, and Christmas.
♦ General admission is $18, with discounts for children, seniors, students, and military, and veterans.
♦ Accessibility: Vizcaya has limited handicapped access, due to the age of the building. There are many steps and uneven floors. Wheelchairs can use the original elevator; several ramps have been installed. Maps for access points are available.
♦ No photos or videos are permitted within the Main House. Visitors are welcome to take photos in the gardens and on the grounds.

About the author:
Suzanne Ball is a longtime freelance writer, specializing in travel and health topics. After walking the ancient 500-mile Camino de Santiago across northern Spain alone, she published an ebook to encourage other women and solo travelers to plan and pack for their own adventure. Other work has appeared in a Hilton Hotel magazine, Trip101, La Concha, and a variety of online websites and company blogs. Her personal blog was carried by the Seattle Post-Intelligencer. Suzanne loves it all: local, domestic, and international. She is a member of the International Travel Writers and Photographers Alliance.

All photos are by Suzanne Ball:
Main House overlooking Biscayne Bay.
Barge and gazebo, with Venetian posts
Pool grotto
Lower garden with coral stone steps and planters

 

Miami, Florida

by Inka Piegsa-quischotti

You can’t visit Miami without being reminded of the Seminoles, the Miccosukee and the Tequesta, South Florida’s native American ancestors. What better pastime for a rainy Friday afternoon than leaving the glamour of South Beach behind and diving into the exciting history of the Indians with a visit to the Historical Museum of Southern Florida, located at 101 West Flagler Street in downtown Miami.

On entering a museum, you do not necessarily expect to be greeted by the sound of excited children, squealing in delight. But that’s exactly what happens, when you visit on what the museum offers as a “Family afternoon”. The first thing that distinguishes the HMSF from rather awe inspiring places like the British Museum in London or the Prado in Madrid, is that this a what I call a ‘hands on’ venue which has a unique way of bringing history to life. Combining entertainment with education in a way which enthralls even smaller children is no mean feat!

The fun already starts at the entrance where the visitor is greeted by a multi colored huge statue of Florida’s signature bird: the flamingo. The flamingo in question is not only colorful but also wears boots and glasses. The tone is set! Climbing the sweeping staircase to the main exhibition hall on the first floor, my eyes are met by a spectacular mural depicting the most important archaeological find in recent years in Miami: The Miami Circle.

As is so often the case, the Miami Circle came to light by chance. In 1998 a work crew started excavations to lay the foundation for a new hotel and apartment block on Biscayne Boulevard between Flagler Street and Brickell Avenue Bridge bordering the Miami River. Below grass covered mounds, they discovered a huge circle of rocks with deep round holes cut into it.

Building work was stopped and the Historical Museums’ archaeologists got involved in unearthing an ancient sacred site belonging to the prehistoric Tequesta Indians, whose presence on the banks of the Miami River were known to the Spanish conqueror Ponce de Leon in 1513. The big surprise and historical relevance of the sacred site was that the Tequesta population and culture was much older than originally thought. Named “First Arrivals” many artifacts recovered from the site are now exhibited in the museum and the big mural gives a first hand impression of the Tequesta’s life and ceremonies.

Excavations of the Circle continue and the Tequesta ancestry of Miami is being commemorated and honored by a park with the circle as its center piece and due to open to the public at the end of this year.

The Museum is not only dedicated to the Indian past of Miami and South Florida but also to the founding fathers – and mothers – of the city, like Henry Flagler and Julia Tuttle. In fact is gives a comprehensive over view with a sin fin of exhibits, photographs and videos.

A big part of the first floor is reserved for the Seminole and the Miccosukee culture and that’s where my primary interest lies. Both tribes, which are closely related, came to Southern Florida from Georgia in the early 1700 and were originally Creek Indians. Fierce and proud people, they have a history of fearless wars and an indomitable spirit of survival.

Paintings and documents trace the Seminole’s and Miccosukee’s past to today’s habitat in the Everglades. Dividers in the museum floor re-create Indian dwellings, fishing implements and their elaborate and multi colored jewelry and patchwork clothes. And that’s where I found the happy children!

On Family Friday Afternoons, the kids are allowed to actually touch selected museum pieces, to climb into early settler’s huts, and to dress up in clothing provided by the museum. Adults too can play at pirate with hats and plastic swords. Small wonder, that this museum is a hit when it comes to teach children their own history.

I was lucky to meet the curator, Jorge Zamanillo, who allowed me to visit the museum’s storage facility where I could marvel at the immense collection of beautifully crafted feather head dresses, bead jewelry and patchwork clothes, all finely stitched by hand. Hand woven baskets and Seminole dolls complete the picture of their culture. The exhibits rotate and are kept and maintained in the vaults.

Back upstairs, I continued my turn around the exhibition floor. Miami did once have a street car and a fine example complete with bell, carried another lot of excited children who on Fridays are allowed to climb in and play passenger and driver.

Not forgotten is the tragic and heart rending story of the Cuban refuges who risked their lives in swimming nutshells to escape to the safety and freedom of the United States. You have to see one of those incredibly small and fragile boats to get a feeling for the despair which people must feel to risk a voyage across the Ocean defying storms, sharks, hunger, thirst, illness and the Coast Guard to make it to Miami’s shores.

Apart from the permanent exhibitions, the museum offers workshops and guided tours. The day I visited, a Cuban chef demonstrated downstairs how to make canapés in the shape of penguins from split dates, stuffed with cream cheese and decorated with wedges of dried mango as beak and feet. Needless to say, that parents and kids alike, joined in with gusto and you could even keep and eat the birds you made. All for free.

Apart from the workshops the museum runs a very popular program of guided tours. Dr. George, one of the museum’s historians, is a Miami institution and leads tours along the Miami River, a Night Walk and a Walk around the Art Deco District among others. These tours can only be booked directly thought the museum’s website.

The museum shop downstairs, offers a huge selection of books, postcards, memorabilia and souvenirs, which are hard to resist.

Rarely have I visited a museum which has so completely absorbed my imagination and made me long to learn more of all aspects of Miami’s and South Florida’s history. If a museum is capable of inspiring that desire I think it has fulfilled its mission.

If You Go:

Historical Museum of Southern Florida, 101 West Flagler Street, Miami Tel: 305 375 1492 Closed on Mondays, for further information, admittance, tours and opening times consult www.hmsf.org.

About the author:
Inka Piegsa-quischotte is an ex-attorney turned travel writer and novelist. She writes for online travel magazines and has two novels and a travel guide to Galicia/Spain published. She lives between Turkey and Miami.

All photos are by Inka Piegsa-quischotte.