by Susmita Sengupta
Mofongo. The name resonated with me, lyrical, pleasing, delightful and most importantly appetizing. I had arrived in San Juan, Puerto Rico for a spring break vacation accompanied by my husband and daughter. I had never heard of such a dish and I was eager to try it. The mofongo arrived accompanied by succulent shrimp bathed in a turmeric sauce laced with onions, tomatoes, bayleaf and spices. It was delicious. This was my introduction to the classic dish made of fried plantains that is pulverized in a mortar and pestle and mixed with garlicky olive oil and fried pork rinds and bacon. It is a dish that reflects the history and culture of this island.
Puerto Rico, an island in the Caribbean, is the smallest island of the Greater Antilles. It was originally inhabited by Taino Indians when the Spanish arrived in the 15th century. The island was discovered on November 19th, 1493 by Christopher Columbus on his second voyage to the New World. He named the island San Juan de Bautista in honor of St. John the Baptist and the town Puerto Rico meaning rich port. In 1508, Juan Ponce de Leon was appointed the first governor of the island by the Spanish government. In the 1520s the island and town names got interchanged and the entire island was called Puerto Rico. San Juan became famous as an important port for merchant and military ships traveling to and from Europe. After the Spanish American war in 1898, Spain ceded Puerto Rico to the United States under the terms of the Treaty of Paris. Since then, Puerto Rico has been a territory of the United States and San Juan has been its capital.
After the traditional Puerto Rican meal and a night’s rest, we decided to start our sightseeing by first visiting Old San Juan, also called Viejo San Juan and its primary attraction, EL Morro fort.
Castillo San Felipe del Morro, commonly known as El Morro, is a 16th century, six level fortress. It was named in honor of Spain’s King Philip II. The fort went through several phases of construction beginning in 1539 when the Spanish felt a fort was needed to protect San Juan from attacks by pirates and privateers. In its first phase of construction between 1539-1540, it was a small structure at the entrance to San Juan harbor. Sir Francis Drake from England attacked the island in 1595 but the Spanish were able to defeat him. But in 1598, Sir George Clifford, the Earl of Cumberland, attacked El Morro and conquered the city. Although he could only hold the city for a very short period of time, it prompted the Spanish to improve the fortification of little El Morro. There was a flurry of construction beginning in the 1600s with the building of the walls that surrounded the city. The enlargement of El Morro started in 1765 and the entire process that began in 1539 took about 150 years to complete. Today, El Morro and its companion fort, Castillo San Cristobal which was built to protect El Morro from land attacks, are part of the US National Park Service and a UN designated World Heritage Site.
Our visit to El Morro started with our taxi dropping us off at the entrance to the fort from where we had to walk across a large, green field to enter the citadel. Be sure to wear sturdy walking shoes as there is a lot of walking involved. We took our time walking through the ramparts where we saw cannons still facing the ocean and stepped inside domed garitas or sentry boxes with its views of the Atlantic Ocean. We passed through passageways and storerooms and climbed the spiral and triangular staircases that go from level to level. On one level we saw an iguana sunning itself under the clear, blue sky with spectacular views of the ocean. By then, we were getting hungry and decided to take the free trolley from the fort entrance into the streets of Old San Juan. Although the best method is to walk the streets of the old city, the trolley is a wonderful way to get to those streets especially if one is hot and tired after spending the day at the fort.
We got down near the Spanish Barracks, or the Cuartel de Ballaja that housed the Spanish troops in the 1800s and later housed American soldiers following the Spanish American war. The three story square building, with its series of arches and central courtyard is the last and the largest building built by the Spanish in the New World. Today it houses the Museum of the Americas. Just a step away from the Barracks, we came upon a massive totem sculpture. This was the Plaza del Quinto Centenario, inaugurated in 1992. Known as the Totem Telurico, it is a contemporary sculpture made by Puerto Rican artist Jaime Suarez and it represents 500 years of Puerto Rican post Columbian history.
We walked through the narrow, cobblestoned streets of Old San Juan, a charming residential and commercial area, filled with shops, restaurants and wonderfully preserved homes in shades of blue, green and orange. And then we came upon El Convento, a hotel founded as a Carmelite convent more than 360 years ago. Sitting in the open air restaurant, under a breadfruit tree, we enjoyed a tapas lunch that included chicken croquettes, hummus and pita bread, calamari rings and their distinct, thin crust pizza. Near the El Convento is the Catedral de San Juan Bautista, a church of great historical importance. Although the history of the church begins in 1521, the structure we see today was built in 1540. Inside the church are the remains of Juan Ponce de Leon in a marble tomb. After spending a few moments in the serene, peaceful atmosphere we continued with our exploration of Old San Juan.
The next day we decided to go the El Yunque National Rainforest, about a forty-five minute drive from San Juan. This is the only tropical rainforest in the US National Forest system. At the El Portal visitor center, located in the wet forest, we admired its spectacular architecture that merged in with the surrounding forest and watched a short movie describing the rainforest and its importance to the ecosystem. We stopped to take in the spectacular panoramic vistas of the forest from various viewing areas. We drove past native towns and into the winding roads on the Luquillo Mountains past bamboo groves, giant ferns, wildflowers, tropical hardwood trees, streams and waterfalls. We drove up to the Yokahu Observation Tower. The view from the top of the tower is truly spectacular and makes you forget the climb up.
We found San Juan to be a unique island where one can not only enjoy a beach vacation but can also have a visit filled with culture, history and natural splendor.
If You Go:
For planning your trip:
Welcome to Puerto Rico
Discover Puerto Rico
About the author:
Susmita Sengupta is a freelance writer who loves to travel. She and her family have traveled to various parts of the USA, Canada, Europe, the Caribbean, Middle East and India. She resides in New York City with her family.
Bacardi Rum Distillery and Old San Juan Tour
Photos are by Susmita Sengupta:
El Morro Fort
The classic dish called Mofongo|
Iguana sunning itself on the walls of El Morro Fort
Totem Telurico at the Plaza del Quinto Centenario
Old San Juan streets
The cathedral front in a mix of Renaissance and neo-Classical styles
The British Virgin Islands are home to a mystifying geological wonder commonly referred to as “The Baths”. Framing the aquamarine waters of the Caribbean along a pristine, white sandy beach, the Baths invariably evoke an astonishing, jaw-dropping reaction from all who visit this grand feat of Mother Nature.
The granite-type rock formations and fascinating topography is the artistic creation of millions of years of geologic and geomorphic activity. The batholiths were formed during the Tertiary period by molten rock under immense pressure, seeping up into existing volcanic rock layers under a young Caribbean Sea. Unable to reach the surface, the seething hot molten rock slowly cooled underwater, forming a hard crystalline granite layer. Further shrinkage and cracking formed enormous blocks, exposed when the softer volcanic rock above eroded away. Once the batholith reached sea level, physical and chemical weathering rounded the sharp edges of these granite blocks, creating their unique boulder-like appearance.
Sailboats and stretches of palm-fringed beaches with sugar-white sand came into view as our small boat, on a day trip from St Thomas, traversed the turquoise waters entering Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour and Spanish Town. Covering only eight square miles and sparsely inhabited, this third largest of the Virgin Islands is a sleepy, idyllic Caribbean hideaway where goats and cattle own right away over island traffic. The name, given to the island by the explorer, Christopher Columbus is Spanish for “Fat Virgin”, because to these sea-weary mariners, the island’s profile on the horizon somewhat resembled a voluptuous woman lying on her side. A 10 to 15 minute open air taxi ride from the port transports island guests on a scenic slightly uphill drive to the southwest entrance of Baths National Park, a seven acre protected nature preserve.
A winding, descending path of hardened sand from the park’s entrance leads visitors downward through an arid, desert-like landscape lined with scrub vegetation and multi-hued and shaped cacti. An intriguing rock formation known as The Skull appears like a ghostly pirate sculpture, but no human hands played a role in its creation. Rather this unique and startling formation is an eerie but interesting example of natural weathering causing large dishes and holes that comprise the skull-like face.
Nothing prepares visitors as they leave the arid-like environment behind to enter a magnificent, immense wall of massive boulders- on a Caribbean beach. This enormous jumble of stone seems so completely and unexpectedly out of place from the natural geology of these islands. A series of step and rope handrails guide explorers through a unique maze of tunnels, arches and tide pools located throughout the baths. Echoes of splashing water can be heard as explorers crawl through tight spaces and descending ladders.
Every twist and turn yields yet another unbelievable site- hidden rooms with shafts of light streaming through, grottos which lead to more remarkable finds. The Cathedral Room, a stunning display of geological formation is the most photographed site inside the baths. Its vertical rocks form an astonishing tall, deep, triangular shaped cavern. Softly lit by ethereal rays of sunlight filtering down through small overhead gaps, this wondrous grotto is aptly named. Admiring visitors pose with a hushed reverence in its shallows as warm sea water gently rushes in and out, swirling around their legs.
As if the spectacle of the Bath’s cavernous beauty wasn’t enough, the sinuous spelunking trail exits to a picturesque clearing with stunning views of horseshoe- shaped Devil’s Bay. Snow white talcum powdered sand is perfect for a rest from the hike under a shaded umbrella. Sailboats glide in and out of the calm bay and seabirds soar in the azure blue skies overhead. Shallow clear waters and delightful coves are perfect for a relaxing swim. Turquoise, crystalline waters of the bay teem with elusive rays, blue tang and other tropical fish, inviting snorkelers and divers to explore more underground caves and magnificent coral reefs. Boulders strewn along the beach invite hikers to climb atop for even more astonishing views of the Baths.
On our hike back to the top of Bath’s National Park, we regaled in our amazement over the incredible, magnificent natural beauty of Virgin Gorda’s fascinating Baths. Once experienced, one will forever hear the Bath’s siren call.
Photo credits:
As we know, he did make landfall, but, what land was it? It was described as a ‘bean shaped island that had several small islands nearby’ Many sources assume it was San Salvador, in the Bahamas, but it’s been pointed out that this also describes Grand Turk. Right up to his death, Columbus maintained that what he’d ‘discovered’ lay off the shores of Asia, so it could be assumed his navigation techniques were suspect … and he didn’t know where he was!
Unfortunately, His Catholic Majesty doesn’t seem to have taken much of an interest in the place, for, by 1624, the French were growing tobacco on the island and, a few years later, the Dutch had set up a colony to work the salt pans. But, in 1633, the Spanish were involved in the Eight Years War, and realised their island was in a strategic position, and asked for it back. But, the Dutch and the French were soon back, and formalised the arrangement in 1648, with the signing of the Treaty of Concordia, which divided the island up between the two nations,
In 1816 affairs settled down, to the situation that prevails nowadays. The French part (St. Martin) uses the euro as currency (technically, it’s a DOM, and as much a part of France as a Parisian suburb) and the Dutch part (Sint Maarten) uses the Netherlands Antilles guilder … although, in practice, the US dollar is widely accepted.
We enter a thatched tobacco aging hut to learn about the process of growing, preparing and marketing the harvest. Each farmer is given a quota, with ninety percent of the crop being bought by the government. The farmer retains the final ten percent and is free to use it for personal consumption, local sales and exchanges or making and selling cigars to tourists. Our group gathers around our host farmer and settles in to hear firsthand about his working life.
However, every farmer puts his own unique stamp on the tobacco he gets to keep, by fermenting it according to an individual recipe. These are often passed down for generations. Our guide’s family recipe was fairly simple, calling only for water, vanilla and rum. But the farm host’s recipe was a bit more elaborate, and includes “water, pineapple skin, guava leaves, honey, sugar cane and a little rum.” With a sly smile on his face, our host notes that some of that rum is applied to the outside of the leaves, and some to the inside of the farmer.
After our farmer finishes his demonstration, he lights up an aged cigar. Others are passed around for us to try, and I relish watching my fellow travelers’ reactions. I end up enjoying most of the tobacco in our Cuban Adventures group, as the others didn’t want more than a couple of puffs. Their loss was definitely my gain, for the smoke is robust and the taste smooth with a hint of honey.
As I let the smoke caress the inside of my mouth, I look out into the valley and into the tobacco fields below. This has been one of the essential experiences I wanted to have in Cuba and I have enjoyed every minute of it. Like our host’s recipe for fermenting tobacco, the magic came from a variety of ingredients, all blended in the right proportions: rich tobacco, fresh mountain air, a relaxed pace of life, friendly and welcoming residents and the local organic produce. The combination captured me; I didn’t want to leave Viñales, and I certainly plan to go back.
About the author:
As the plane was beginning its descent into Bermuda in the North Atlantic Ocean, I couldn’t help but notice how small the islands were, even as they were getting bigger as we were getting closer. The islands of Bermuda actually comprise one of the smallest territories in the world. Upon entering the L. F. Wade International Airport, we were greeted by a Calypso band of seven musicians that immediately got us into the tropical island mood as we prepared to pass through British customs.
Our friend and local Bermudian, who picked us up at the airport, gave us a brief tour of the main island and explained that Bermuda is actually comprised of about 180 islands. The larger and inhabited islands are connected by bridges and causeways and some of the smaller ones or islets are actually just big rocks. The area, that measures only 21 miles in length, is only about 2.5 miles wide at its widest point.
I truly appreciated the proximity to the boutiques and restaurants in Hamilton that were a mere 5 minute walk away.
During our first evening, we decided leave our scooters behind at the hotel and head by taxi for dinner at the Swizzle Inn Pub and Restaurant in the small village of Bailey’s Bay. We had heard that their dishes were delicious and that it was where Bermuda’s national drink originated. The “Rum Swizzle” is a mild tasting yet powerful and delightful blend of rums, fruit juices, and syrups.
After our dinner, we took a cab back to Hamilton and visited the many cafes, bars, and nightclubs on Front Street that are opened quite late and sometimes past 3:00 am. My particular favorite was Cafe Cairo and its exotic ambiance. Unlike what you would expect to find in Bermuda, Cafe Cairo is a popular dance club that plays music from all over the world as well as a restaurant with a Middle Eastern theme decorated in North African decor. The dining room is designed as a Bedouin tent complete with soft cushions as well as an outdoor patio that overlooks the harbor. You can enjoy a Turkish coffee, sample a Sheesha pipe, or during the busier tourist season, be entertained by a Belly Dancer!
