Europe Travel - Part 22

Greece: The Diros Caves, a Prehistoric Treasure

by W. Ruth Kozak

It’s as though I have entered a vast underground cathedral, perhaps one created by Gaudi, because of the way the vaulted ceilings drip with wax-like stalactites. Everything is diffused with colour, as if light has filtered through stained glass windows. The only sound is the soft dipping of the boatman’s paddle and the hollow echo of voices.

I am inside the Diros Caves located in the Bay of Diros on the western coast of the Lakonian peninsula of the Mani in the southern Peloponnese of Greece. The twenty-five minute tour is 1500 metres underground, the first part by punt on an underwater lake, and later by foot. The Caves are among of the largest in the world, an underground wonderland.

The cave was formed thousands of years ago. The stalactites and stalagmites now beneath the water were formed when the sea level was much lower. The cave has been known to locals since about 1900 but was not opened to visitors until 1967. Explorations continue including cave diving to explore under water.

Temperatures inside the caves range from 16C to 20C and it’s a refreshing respite from the heat of the July morning. I have entered through the narrow passageway to the underground lake and got fitted with a life jacket before boarding the little punt that takes me and other tourists on our magical journey.

The first cave is known as the Glifada Cave, one of the most beautiful lakes caves in the world. Brilliant white stalactites and stalagmites glitter from the ceiling and rise from the water like crystal drapes. Water seeps into the cracks of limestone and drips into the underground lake, making a pleasant trickling sound. The passages are sometimes so low and narrow we have to duck our heads as the punt slides underneath and we enter another breathtaking cavern. The boatman tells us to keep our hands inside and not to touch anything in the caves.

Significant anthropological findings from the Neolithic age have been discovered here including pottery, providing evidence of prehistoric men. Fossilized bones of panthers, hyenas, lions, deer, ferrets and the largest collection of hippopotamus bones in Europe have also been found in the caves.

At the end of the boat ride, we enter the vast cavern of the Aleopotripa Cave. I can’t help but gasp at the sight as it is like a vaulted Gothic apse and evokes a feeling of awe. As I walk through with the other tourists, we are warned not to break off any of the stalactites. This is the cave where the evidence of prehistoric men was found and at the exit there is a small Stone Age museum containing the artifacts, which date back 6000 years.

The Diros Caves are protected by the Greek National Tourist Organization and are an integral and significant part of the Greek cultural heritage. They are among the most important natural sites in Greece. I hadn’t expected to visit them when I traveled to the Mani so that day was a special bonus and one that I’ll never forget!

If You Go:

You can take a bus, or drive via Sparti from Gythion in the south Peloponnese. The Caves are an hour drive from Gythion.

The Caves are open to visitors 8.30 am to 4.30 pm from June to September, 8.30 am to 3.00 pm October to May.

http://www.thegreektravel.com/lakonia/diros.html

About the author:
Ruth is a travel journalist and historical writer who spends most of her vacations in Greece. She instructs workshops on travel writing and encourages new writings to submit to the travel ‘zine TRAVEL THRU HISTORY. Ruth has a travel guide to Athens available on Kindle, Athens & Beyond and two volumes of a published historical novel about the fall of Alexander the Great’s dynasty: SHADOW OF THE LION: BLOOD ON THE MOON and SHADOW OF THE LION: THE FIELDS OF HADES available from Amazon.com or the Book Depository.

Photo credits:
First photo by George Fournaris / CC BY-SA
All other photos by W. Ruth Kozak

Belgium: A Feast of Waffles, Beer and Chocolate

by Elizabeth von Pier

I’m a food lover and if you’re one too, you’ll appreciate my journey through the enchanting country of Belgium. I am on a quick three-day tour of Brussels, Dinant, Ghent and Bruges and there are plenty of opportunities to indulge my taste buds with some Belgian specialties that not only are delicious but also have an interesting history dating back hundreds of years.

In Brussels, I start by exploring the Grand Place with its old guildhalls, Town Hall and Breadhouse building decorated with gold motifs, and make a stop to see one of the iconic symbols of Brussels, the Manneken Pis. This statue of a little boy urinating into a fountain’s basin is said to embody the Belgian spirit of independence and their sense of humor.

I notice very quickly that there are appealing little chocolate shops on just about every street corner. No wonder. There are over 2,000 chocolatiers in Belgium and I think they all have a shop here in the capital. Famous Belgian brands that can easily be found in America include Godiva and Cote d’Or. Others like Leonidas, Nihoul, Neuhaus and Wittamer are a little harder to find stateside, but are among the best and should be tried while you’re here. Ooh, the taste, texture and smells as I wander from shop to shop testing out white, milk and dark varieties filled with various fresh-cream flavors and fashioned into tiny works of art.

Chocolate goes back centuries, to the Mayan Indians on the Yucatan Peninsula who, in 600 A.D., cured fevers and coughs using a bitter tasting drink made out of the beans that grow in pods on the trunk of the cacao tree. In the 1200’s, the Aztecs began adding flowers, vanilla and honey to enhance the flavor and in 1847, an English apothecary and doctor named Joseph Fry discovered that he could melt down the natural fat found in the cocoa bean and add it to cocoa powder to make a moldable paste which he turned into what we know today as chocolate bars. J. S. Fry & Sons was formed and later merged with and was absorbed by Cadbury’s.

Chocolate reached its apex as an art form when in 1912 Jean Neuhaus in Brussels invented the chocolate bonbon. The chocolatier designed and sculpted beautiful confections out of the rich, smooth paste. Now, as I stand at shop windows mesmerized by the beauty of the creations, I am humored by a window displaying a three-foot tall chocolate Manneken Pis who threatens to destroy a sheet of waffles with his discharge. Inside, you can buy bags of the little guy made out of white, milk and dark chocolate and tied with a blue bow.

Having had my fill of sweets, I am now ready to go on to some “real” food. I start with what the Belgians call frites. They are a very popular snack here and you can find friteries with windows open to the sidewalk throughout the main pedestrianized areas of Brussels and on the squares of most Belgian towns. These are thick-cut rectangles of potato served piping hot from the fryolator in a cone you can carry with you as you walk the streets. Instead of ketchup, I eat them with the most popular accompaniment, mayonnaise, although you can buy any of twenty or so other sauces for dipping, most of them mayonnaise-based.

Be aware that the Belgians are sensitive to calling them “French fries”. They claim that they were the first to invent this dish and therefore they should be called “Belgian fries”. In fact, the name “French fries” originated during WWI when soldiers at the front were served the fried sticks and did not know if they were in France or Belgium. Someone said it was France, and thereafter they were called “French fries.”Today in Belgium, they are simply frites.

The next day I find myself in Bruges in the Flanders region where primarily Dutch is spoken. Also called the “Venice of the North”, I take a walking tour of the UNESCO-listed city with its cobbled streets and winding waterways. By now, I’ve built up an appetite for some vlaamse stoverij, the famous Flemish beef and beer stew. I’m told that a delicious version of this dish can be had at the Vivaldi Brasserie and Restaurant, so I take myself there and devour the tasty dish that is, as always in Flanders, served with a green salad and a bowl of frites. Instead of using wine in its base as the French do, here it is stewed in deep dark beer with a hint of brown sugar and cider vinegar added to give it a slightly sweet-sour taste. Along with the beef, caramelized onions and sometimes bacon are also added to the sauce.

Of course, nothing goes better with vlaamse stoverij than one of the over 800 varieties of famous Belgian beer. Here at the Vivaldi, it is Abbey beer. I order a glass of Leffe Blond. My server Stef talks about the beer with great enthusiasm. This beer, he says, dates back to 1240 A.D. when it was made by the monks of the abbey of Notre-Dame de Leffe in southern Belgium using ingredients found in the wild. It’s a deep yellow color, strong and malty with a subtle orangey taste and a high alcohol content, and he proudly serves it in a special Leffe glass. It pairs very well with the vlaamse stoverij. I’m somewhat disappointed to learn that today it’s produced by an arm of Anheuser-Busch, although royalties are paid to the abbey for their production.

I’m now ready for some dessert and nothing is more enticing than Belgian waffles. This is a very popular indulgence in the evening. Like frites, Belgian waffles are made in little waffle stands throughout the pedestrianized areas of most cities and towns and are served with a fork and a special waffle holder. Emilie makes one for me using a waffle iron and corrects me—here they are called simply “waffles”, not Belgian waffles. She offers a choice from a variety of toppings including whipped cream, icing sauce, butter, pistachios, candy sprinkles, shaved chocolate, coconut, banana, fresh strawberries, Nutella and drizzles of chocolate, caramel, or strawberry sauce.

We talk as she pours the batter into the maker, creates a crispy brown beauty, and adorns it with fresh strawberries, whipped cream and chocolate drizzle. Learning that I’m from America, she tells the story of how Belgian waffles were introduced, first as the Brussels Waffle in 1958 at an expo in Bruxelles. A few years later, Maurice Vermersch opened a stand in the Belgian Village at the 1964 World’s Fair in Flushing Meadows, New York where he sold them covered with strawberries and whipped cream. But Maurice found that most people in the U.S. did not know that Brussels was the capital of Belgium, so he named them Bel-Gem Waffles, a play on words, which later morphed into Belgian Waffles. The concoction became very popular and they have since taken off in the U.S. Emilie and I laugh together as she hands me my “Bel-Gem waffle”.

The waffles in Belgium are larger, fluffier and with deeper squares than those in the U.S. This is because the batter is raised with yeast and egg whites are folded in, rather than baking powder as in the U.S.

The next day I find myself in Dinant, Belgium, the birthplace of the inventor of the saxophone, Adolphe Sax. Saxophones decorate the streets of Dinant, painted with modern art designs on the bridge over the River Meuse, on the lampposts, and in the special museum devoted to Mr. Sax.

But I pass up the museum to go to the little family-run shop on rue Grande which makes cocques. Pronounced “kooks”, these are an interesting and unusual confection made only in this shop. The windows draw you in with their beautiful displays of what look like gingerbread cookies formed into an assortment of lovely designs depicting flowers, animals, people and landscapes.

Cocques date from the 15th century when Charles the Bold besieged the town and left no food except for honey and flour. The industrious residents found a way to create a tasty concoction from these two ingredients. Today a little sugar is added to the recipe and the dough is pressed into molds made by local metalcrafters and baked. On cooling, they become rock hard and can be preserved indefinitely as long as they are kept dry. Tourists buy cocques all year long, but Belgians typically indulge in them around St. Nicolas day in the winter.

One of the Jacobs family explains how to eat them and warns against biting off a piece of the cocque because it will break your teeth. She says that the local dentist is a very rich man from repairing teeth for cocque eaters. She recommends using a hammer on a very hard surface—like cement—to break them into bite-sized fragments. Then you suck on the pieces and leave them to melt in your mouth until they are soft and chewy. You might also leave them to soak in coffee, but since they are so hard, it will take quite some time for them to soften, even in the hot liquid.

Stock up on this unique and tasty treat since you won’t find it anywhere else in the world.

If You Go:

Cocques at Patisserie Jacobs, Rue Grande 147, 5500 Dinant (00 32 82 22 21 39)
Leonidas, 17 Rue des Fripiers/Kleerkopersstraat 17, 1000 Brussels, for great chocolates (many other shops throughout the city and major towns)
Vivaldi Brasserie, Wijngaardstraat 24, 8000 Bruges

About the author:
Elizabeth von Pier is a retired banker and an avid traveler, photographer and writer. She has been published in the Los Angeles Times, In the Know Traveler, Go Nomad, Wave Journey, Hackwriters, Travelmag—The Independent Spirit, and Travel Thru History, and recently published her first book, “Where to Find Peace and Quiet in London.” Ms. Von Pier lives in Hingham, Massachusetts.

Photos by Elizabeth von Pier

Italy: Pistoia, a Capital Idea

by Sarah Humphreys

Pistoia, an almost forgotten corner of Tuscany, has only recently begun to feature on the tourist trail. Thanks to Pistoia’s status as Italian Capital of Culture 2017, and being on Lonely Planet’s top ten list of places to visit in 2017, the city has finally begun to receive the recognition it deserves.

The origin of the name Pistoia seems to originate from the Latin “Pistoria”, which refers to an oven for baking bread. Situated on a major road junction between Florence, Lucca and the Apennine Mountains, travellers and pilgrims often stopped to stock up on supplies. Due to its strategic position, Pistoia still makes an ideal, and economical, base to explore the local area. Many tourists come for day trips, but the city has plenty to offer, without the hustle and bustle of more famous Tuscan destinations.

Pistoia has an extremely well-preserved historical centre, which can be easily explored on foot, and is full of splendid buildings dating back to Roman times. Piazza dell’Duomo, one of the most impressive squares in Italy, is home to the 12th century Romanesque Cathedral of San Zeno, which contains the magnificent solid silver altar of St James. Worked on by Filippo Brunelleschi, it features 628 figures depicting scenes from the Old and New Testaments and the life of the saint. For spectacular views, the 200 steps of the 67m bell-tower can be climbed by the energetic. The octagonal 14th century gothic style Baptistery, built from Carrara and Serpentine marble in a simple green and white pattern, sits opposite the Cathedral looking like a beautifully decorated cake. From within the historical centre, it can almost be easy to miss the Basilica of La Madonna dell’Umilità, topped by a 59 meter high dome, the third largest in Italy.

The real heart of the city is the bustling Piazza della Sala, which dates from the 12th century. The characteristic well, “Il Pozzo del Leoncino” (Well of the Little Lion), makes an impressive centre piece to this charming square, which hosts a daily fruit and vegetable market and is surrounded by tiny shops brimming with Tuscan delicacies such as cheese, fresh pasta, delicious bread and a variety of meat products. Lining the square are numerous bars and restaurants, which form the hub of the “movida Pistoiese” and attract hundreds of people of all ages in the evenings, particularly in summer.

Apart from typical Tuscan attractions including splendid striped churches, ancient city walls and the fortress of Santa Barbara, built by the Florentines in 1331, Pistoia also has some more unusual monuments. The ancient hospital, dating form the 13th century, features an unmissable glazed ceramic frieze created by various artists, including Giovanni Della Robbia, which depicts the seven works of mercy. Underneath the hospital itself, you can follow a fascinating itinerary where you can see artefacts used by plague victims, an ancient laundry and olive oil mill and finally end up in the smallest anatomical theatre in the world.

Fans of contemporary art will find plenty to see, including Palazzo Fabroni, a well-stocked museum, a museum dedicated to Marino Marini, and on the outskirts of the city, Fattoria Celle, an open-air site specific collection displaying works by artists such as Sol Lewitt, Daniel Buran and Dennis Oppenheim.

If all this isn’t enough, you can visit the lively street market on Wednesdays and Saturdays, take a trip to the local, well-kept zoo or just relax with a glass of wine and try some of the local delicacies.

Pistoia really comes to life in the summer and hosts The Pistoia Blues Festival in July, where artists such as B.B. King, Buddy Guy, Bob Dylan, Lou Reed and David Bowie have played. The 25th July is the feast of the town’s patron St James, and the streets fill up with a medieval procession displaying stunning costumes, flag waving and music, which culminates in a jousting tournament in Piazza del’ Duomo.

There is a local saying “Pistoia fa conca”, which means Pistoia is a hollow, implying it is difficult to leave. You may just find this is true and you want to extend your visit, mine has unintentionally lasted twenty years.

If You Go:

By Air: The nearest airports are Amerigo Vespucci Airport, Florence and Galileo Galilei, Pisa.

By Train: Pistoia is on the Florence-Lucca-Viareggio line. The journey from Florence is about 40minutes. For more information see: www.trenitalia.it

By Bus: Buses from Pistoia to Florence leave from outside the main stations and are run by BluBus.

By Car: Pistoia is on the A11 “Firenze-Mare” Highway.

Photographs by Sarah Humphreys
Piazza dell’Duomo
Piazza della Sala
Detail of Ceramic Frieze, Ospedale del Ceppo
Sant’Andrea Church

About the author:
Sarah Humphreys is originally from near Liverpool, UK and has lived in Canada, The USA, The Czech Republic, Greece and Italy. She currently lives in Pistoia, near Florence, where she teaches English, writes freelance and is a part-time poet. She has been writing since she could hold a pencil and her passions include Literature, poetry, music and travel. Follow her on twitter: Sarah Humphreys@frizeytriton.

Belgium: A Visit to a Medieval Hospital in Bruges

by Anne Harrison

We were highly delighted by our visit to the Hospital of St. John’s. It is a Gothic edifice of ancient structure. The sick lie in a large apartment, which is supported by Norman arches and pillars. The Sisters of Charity attend upon the invalids; and everything appears in that state of order and excessive neatness, so admirably conspicuous in this town.
-Charles A. Stothar, English antiquarian, in a letter to his mother 20th Sept 1890

I first saw Sint-Janshospitaal while cruising along the canals of Bruges. The wall running along the Groenerei (or Green Canal) is in classic Flemish style: ivy-covered stones, a roof stepping against the skyline. Tall gothic windows looked over the water. In medieval times this wing doubled as both a chapel and a ward (for since spiritual healing was considered more important than healing of the flesh, a chapel stood inside the open ward). The wash from our barge lapped against the weathered stones and landing stage, where a door opened onto the water.

Dating from the 12th century, Sint-Janshospitaal is Europe’s oldest preserved hospital, and remained in use until 1978. Behind these walls, the buildings now house a museum of medieval medical instruments, hospital artifacts, furniture and even original records. The earliest document relating to the hospital is dated 1188. It deals with the vows taken by the brothers and sisters working here, which differed to those taken by religious orders of the time. The sisters were in charge of the daily organization of the sick and of the kitchen; the brothers took responsibility for the hospital’s administration. In 1236, at the insistence of the Bishop Tournai, the lay brothers and sisters donned religious habits, and took vows of obedience, chastity and poverty.

Even the medieval apothecary and herb garden remain. One of the more unique items on display is an old ambulance, little more than a metal box with long wooden handles, in which the patient had to stand as he was carried by porters to the hospital. On the door is written St John’s, Bruges (in English, interestingly, not Flemish). The box looks more like a cage carrying a condemned man to the scaffold than an ambulance.

Hans Memling at Bruges! Have you never seen that dear old hospital of St. Jean on passing the gate of which you enter the fifteenth century?
– Roundabout Papers Thackeray (1811-1863)

There are also six masterpieces by the famous Vlaamse Primitieven (Flemish Primitive) Hans Memling (1430-1493). The wealth of Brugges attracted leading artists from over Europe, giving rise to the innovative style of the Primitives. Memling lived for a while at the hospital and also died here. It is said, after being wounded at the Battle of Nancy, the Hospitalliers of Sint-Janshospitaal treated his wounds and cured him.

Four of the works by Memling on display were painted specifically for the hospital, including the famous St. Ursula Shrine. Completed in 1480, this work is considered the masterpiece of the artist’s later years. Taking pride of place in the hospital chapel, the shrine is a carved reliquary cased in gold and shaped like a miniature wooden Gothic church. Within are the saint’s relics. The three painted tondoes on each side depict the medieval tale of the beautiful St Ursula and the 11,000 virgins who were massacred by the Huns in Germany while returning from a pilgrimage to Rome. The figures are remarkably delicate, the landscape and costumes full of detail, reflecting the artistic innovations of the time.

The oldest part of the hospital was built in the Mariastraat, near to the Mariapoort (or Mary’s Gate, one of the city gates in the first city walls). Importantly, the hospital stood just within the city walls, allowing it to provide housing and care not only for sick townsfolk, but also for pilgrims and travelers who often simply sought shelter and food rather than healing. (Opposite the hospital stands The Church of Our Lady, a 13th century chapel originally outside the city limits. Its brick tower is the highest of its kind in Europe. Inside is proudly displayed a Madonna and Child – the only statue by Michelangelo to leave Italy during his lifetime.)

The hospital continued to expand in the Middle Ages. In 1459, when under Bishop Chevrot the brothers and sisters of Sint-Janshospitaal took formal religious vows. This was largely for political reasons; by this time the hospital had become a powerful and rich institution. As a religious order, Sint-Janshospitaal was largely freed from the control of the city magistrate and Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy. Around 1600 the hospital became an all-female institution.

Sint-Janshospital is one of the most beautiful medieval buildings in Bruges, if not Europe. For over 700 years it served not only as a hospital, but also as a charitable institution, caring for the needy as well as the ill, and giving spiritual guidance to the suffering and the dying. Although some of the original sheds have vanished – including a bakery and a brewery supplying the hospital and the original community – the atmosphere of a medieval hospital remain, a place not only utilitarian, but also aesthetically beautiful, designed to cure the body, the heart, the mind and the soul.

If You Go:

Bruges is easily reached by train, whether from Brussels airport or other major cities in Europe. A train from Paris, for example, takes around four hours and cost approx. €26.

For other ideas of what see in Bruges, visit the official website. This also gives suggestions for accommodation. (There are numerous websites for reviewing different types of accommodation.) I’d strongly recommend staying on a canal, with a window overlooking the water.

About the author:
Anne Harrison lives with her husband, two children and numerous pets in regional Australia. She discovered travel at the age of ten, then the world of history and philosophy. Her jobs include wife, mother, doctor, farmer, cheese-maker and local witch doctor, and her ambition is to be 80 and happy. Read more at anneharrison.com.au & hubpages.com/@anneharrison

Photo Credits
First photo of Bruges Sint-Janshospitaal by Ludvig14 / CC BY-SA
All other photos Ⓒ A. Harrison
A side entrance to the hospital
Touring the canals
Sint-Janshospitaal
View from the canal
Michelangelo’s Madonna

A Photographic Stroll Through History: Siena’s Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta

by Ron Ellege

What do some of Italy’s finest artists of the day, Nicola and Giovanni Pisano, Donatello, Pinturicchio, Lorenzo Ghiberti, and Bernini, have in common? They all contributed to one of the finest displays of Gothic architecture in Italy. Siena’s Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta is filled with treasures by Pisano, Donatello and Michelangelo, as well as frescoes by Pinturicchio.

The Beginning

Begun in 1229, and the dome completed in 1264, Siena’s Cathedral is a spectacular edifice inside and out. With a vision of hosting the largest cathedral in Europe, the existing structure was to become the transept of a new cathedral more than 100 meters long. Tragically, their dream of an imposing cathedral died in 1348 when, within a few months, 60 percent of Siena’s inhabitants were struck down by the Black Plague.

The remnants of the outer walls remain today and bring perspective to the vision they had undertaken.

The west facade was begun in 1285 under the watchful eye of Giovanni Pisano. In 1296 Pisano hastily left the city over a creative dispute with the governing council and his work was completed 100 years later by Giovanni di Cecco.

In the 19th century, the Cathedral was extensively restored and the golden mosaics in the upper gables were made by Venetian artists in the late 1870’s. The large central mosaic, the Coronation of the Virgin, is the work of Luigi Mussini. The Nativity of Jesus and Presentation of Mary in the Temple, were made by Alessandro Franchi. The large rose window is surrounded by busts of 36 patriarchs and a statue of the Madonna and Child.

Inside The Cathedral

Prepare to be amazed as the Wow Factor will captivate your senses the moment you enter the doors of this historic Gothic Cathedral. The black and white marble stripes on the walls and columns immediately captivate the eye. Black and white is seen throughout Siena and are the city’s symbolic colors.

Stop at the visitor’s desk directly across from the entrance where you can pick up an audio tour which will take you on an informational journey through the highlights of the Cathedral.

While standing in the short line for your tour radio, glance up at the cornice that runs the length of the nave. It is decorated with busts of popes fashioned in the workshop of Giovanni di Stefano who began his work in 1495. Below are 36 busts of Roman and Byzantine emperors from Constantine to Theodosiu.

Located over the main doors in the west façade is one of two rose windows not to be missed. This beautiful oculus depicts the Last Supper and was created by Pastorino de’ Pastorini in 1549.

The Central Nave

Venturing into the Cathedral we observe the central nave.

Here we view the high altar flanked by columns topped by our first glimpse of the hexagonal dome which is topped with Bernini’s gilded lantern.

Under the dome are gold-plated stucco statues of Patron Saints of Siena sculpted by Ventura di Giuliano and Bastiano di Francesco in 1490.

The Duccio Oculus, the round stained-glass window over the apse is one of the earliest existing examples of Italian stained glass.

It depicts the assumption, burial and coronation of the Virgin Mary and was crafted by Duccio di Buoninsegna in 1288.

The Floors

As you stroll through this art filled Cathedral with astonishing sculptures, frescos, and relics on display in every quadrant, pay close attention to the floors. This composite of marble inlays which were crafted over six centuries (from the fourteenth to the nineteenth century), are covered for protection during much of the year. Plan on arriving between mid-August and late October if you wish to view them.

Of all the mosaic marble panels, I have two favorites. The large panel in the transept “The Slaughter of the Innocents”.

This is thought to be the work of Matteo di Giovanni in 1481. It is the only story coming from a Gospel, Matthew 2:13-23, all the other illustrations are based on the Old Testament and classical sources.

The earliest floor panel in the Cathedral is the Wheel of Fortune and the Sienese Wolf.

This panel, located close to the entrance, dates to sometime between 1369 and 1373.

Self-Portraits

Above the entrance to the Piccolomini Library is this fresco of the papal coronation of Pius III by Bernardino di Betto (Pinturicchio).

I love this fresco as it captures the nature of many of the artists of the time. Pinturicchio, as he often did during this period in his career, included a portrait of himself. Pinturicchio is standing facing us, he is the one in front of the crowd on your right while viewing this fresco.

Another self-portrait is an addition by Michelangelo to the Piccolomini Altarpiece.

This complex altarpiece was commissioned by cardinal Francesco Todeschini Piccolomini and built between 1481 and 1485 by Andrea Bregno. However, its prominence is more for the four sculptures in the lower niches. Saint Peter, Saint Paul, Saint Gregory, and Saint Pius were sculpted by Michelangelo between 1501 and 1504. The statue of St. Paul is a self-portrait of the young Michelangelo.

The Last Glimpse

As you proceed from the cathedral, south toward Piazza del Campo, be sure to look back for a view of the dome and bell tower through the arch in the south wall of Duomo Nuovo.

The dome rises from a hexagonal base with supporting columns. The lantern atop the dome was later added by Gian Lorenzo Bernini.

If You Go:

You can drive, but it may not be the best choice.

By Car:

Siena is one of Italy’s prominent hilltop-towns and is located a mere 76 kilometers south of the beautiful city of Florence. The drive takes only 45 minutes via the Autostrada, however, once you arrive in Siena you will find that you cannot enter the old town unless you are booked in a local hotel. Parking is difficult to find and will often be located beyond any reasonable walking distance.

Our favorite car rental in much of Europe and the world. www.rentalcars.com.

Train or bus may be your best option if you are not taking one of the many tours offered in Florence.

Our favorite tour company is Walks of Italy.

By Train:

Siena is about 90 minutes by train, and they are scheduled frequently throughout the day. The train station is located close to Siena’s many tourist attractions and is about one-and-a-half kilometers from the Cathedral.

When traveling by rail I have two sites I check with: Trainline and Vacations By Rail.

The SITA Bus provides numerous links from the city of Florence to Chianti, and is the best way to get easily to Siena. Using the Rapide (express) Bus it will take about an hour from Florence, and you gain the added advantage of being taken to the historic center of town, close to the Cathedral.

Be Aware:

As is the case in all of Italy, to enter a place of worship you must dress accordingly (women’s shoulders should be covered, shorts are not appropriate, and men must wear shirts). Food and drink is not allowed in the Cathedral so take advantage of one of the many cafes and restaurants located a few steps away.

The public is welcome and encouraged to attend weekday and Sunday masses, but no sightseeing is permitted during these events.

Cost and Hours:

Tickets are €6 per person while the marble pavement is uncovered, usually from mid-August to late October. The rest of the year, entrance is €3 per person.

Siena Cathedral (Santa Maria Assunta, or Most Holy Mary of the Assumption) is open from 10:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. on weekdays, and from 9:30 p.m. to 6 p.m. on Sundays and holidays.

About the author:
Ron Elledge is a Freelance Photographer/Writer who splits his time between Phoenix, Arizona and Albuquerque, New Mexico when not on a photo shoot or world adventure. Ron’s photography can be viewed at www.RonElledgePhotography.com. His love of travel is shared by his wife, Shelli, with whom he travels the globe and together they document their journeys.

All photos by Ron Elledge