Israel: The North Shore Of The Sea Of Galilee
by Troy Herrick
After leaving Nazareth and before meeting his appointment with destiny in Jerusalem, Jesus started his ministry along the scenic north shore of the Sea of Galilee, the largest fresh water lake in modern day Israel. The four canonical Gospels are filled with miracles that Jesus performed while preaching the good news in this region. A number of these miracles were performed in remote or unidentifiable locations which have subsequently been lost to history.
Present day visitors to Sea of Galilee will discover “traditional” locations for some of Jesus’ miracles. Early Christian pilgrims selected these sites with little more than faith. Unfortunately no archeology is available from Jesus’ time to confirm the locations that were selected.
While Capernaum does have some archeological evidence, the locations of the present day Church of the Primacy of Peter, the Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes and the Church of the Beatitudes appear to have been selected largely because of their natural land formations and geographic features. At the same time, visitors to this region should remember that their visit is one of faith and not one of archeology. The miracles that were performed are more important than the actual locations where they were performed. You can start your own pilgrimage of faith at Capernaum.
Capernaum
Jesus settled in the ancient fishing village of Capernaum after having left Nazareth (Matthew 1:13, 9:1, Mark 2:1). Entering this archeological site today, you are greeted by a statue of St. Peter set just inside the “not-so-pearly” gates. Looking around, you may be surprised that the site before you is from the Byzantine Period and that nothing remains from the time of Jesus.
Your first stop is the House of St. Peter. Where do you find it? Just look for the “flying saucer-like” church set upon columns and you will find the traditional site of the St. Peter’s house directly beneath it. This brings new perspective to Peter being the rock upon which Jesus would build his church.
The stone and mortar ruins are those of successive churches built between the 2nd and 7th centuries CE. The 5th century church in particular was octagonal in shape and you can still see the dusty outline of its walls.
Although you will not be able to see it, there is one room inside this complex that contains ancient graffiti, dating to the mid 1st century CE, mentioning Jesus by name. Is this the actual room where Jesus cured Peter’s wife of fever (Luke 4:38) and where a paralytic was lowered down through the roof for Jesus to cure (Mark 2:1-12)? There is no way to confirm this.
As we looked out over the ruins, a black and grey striped cat sitting on top of one of the wall remnants, stuck its tongue out in our direction as if to say “I can go inside but you can’t”. For a different view of St. Peter’s home, enter the church above and look down below through the glass floor at the center of the room.
The octagonal shaped Catholic Church is beautiful in its own right. The brightly lit room features eight wooden carvings depicting the life of Jesus lining the periphery. Your eyes are drawn to the altar with the panoramic view of the Sea of Galilee behind it. From here, it is easy to imagine fishermen in their boats casting their nets into the lake.
After leaving the church pass by the stone ruins of homes from this ancient town and make your way to the ancient synagogue located nearby. Built from imported white limestone, this synagogue dates to the 4-5th centuries CE. Stone benches line the eastern and western aisles of the original room. Three doors are located on the south side of the structure and columns to support the roof line the other three walls. A fresh rain brought an ice-like sheen to the synagogue’s dark flooring slabs.
A black basalt stone wall found beneath the present structure is believed to be from an earlier synagogue. The stone flooring set under the podium in the central prayer hall dates to the 1st century CE. Is this the synagogue in which Jesus taught (John 6:54) and cast out demons (Luke 4:31-33)?
After a leisurely walk around ancient Capernaum and along the lakeshore, drive to your next destination which is the Church of the Primacy of Peter.
The Church of the Primacy of Peter (Sacellum Primatus Sancti Petri)
Constructed in 1933 on a rocky base at the shore of the Sea of Galilee by the Franciscans, this modest grey stone chapel is not the first church constructed on site. You can still see the remains of walls from an earlier church built in the 4th century CE on three sides of the building.
This church commemorates the reinstatement of Peter as chief among the Apostles (John 21: 1-24) after having been rebuked by Jesus near Caesarea Philippi (Matthew 16:13-19) and denying him three times before the crucifixion (Matthew 26:69-75, Mark 14:66-72, Luke 22:55-62, John 18:25-27).
The focal point of this church is the brown limestone outcrop that seemingly serves as a barrier between the congregation and the altar. According to tradition Jesus laid out a meal of bread and fish for his disciples upon this rock known as the Mensa Christi. You can easily imagine a number of tired fishermen coming ashore after a long night in their boat and finding a warm meal waiting for them, prepared by a man who had risen from the dead.
Exit the church and move around the back toward the water. Your first discovery is a statue entitled “Feed My Sheep” which depicts Peter kneeling in front of Jesus. While they appear to be life-sized in height, the lanky figures have an unearthly appearance to them.
Descend the rough hewn steps just beyond the statue and go down to the lakeshore. At low tide, you find six heart-shaped double-column blocks embedded in the sand, known as the Twelve Thrones which commemorate the Twelve Apostles (Luke 22:30).
Your next destination, the Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes, is also considered by some to be the site of Jesus’ last meal with his disciples.
The Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes (Church of the Heptapegon)
The present Greek Orthodox church on site, constructed in 1982, commemorates Jesus’ miracle of multiplying five loaves of bread and two fish to feed 5,000 people (Luke 9:10-17, John 6:1-15, Matthew 14:13-21, Mark 6:30-46). There is no proof that this miracle actually occurred on site as Mark only mentions that it occurred in a remote place on the shore of the Sea of Galilee.
The focal point of this church with its basic interior is the dark brown limestone rock located beneath the simple stone altar. The faithful believe that this 0.6 square meter (5.4 square foot) stone was used by Jesus as a table when performing the miracle. History records that pilgrims have chipped away pieces of this stone over time.
Set in front of the altar is a mosaic depicting two fish straddling a basket of loaves. This mosaic, which appears to have sustained some water damage over the ages, as evidenced by three stains, is quite distinct from the larger mosaic that serves as the church floor. This mosaic displays birds and flowers. Dating to the 5th century, these mosaics were part of an earlier church that was destroyed by the Persians in 614 CE.
After exiting this church, your next destination is further away from the lakeshore than the other sites you will visit – the Church of the Beatitudes.
The Church of the Beatitudes
The Catholic Church on site, built in 1937, is set on the traditional site of Jesus’ Sermon on the Mount (Luke 6:20-22, Matthew 5:1-5). While there is no proof that the sermon actually occurred here, pilgrims have been drawn to this site since the 4th century CE, as evidenced by the ruins of a small church just down the hill from the present house of worship.
While the modern church is certainly pleasing to the eye, the real attraction is the natural setting. Combine warm sunshine, a panoramic view of the Sea of Galilee and song birds with palm trees, shrubs, flowers and lines from the Beatitudes displayed in the well-manicured gardens and all is right with the world. You may wish to spend a few minutes in quiet contemplation here.
Entering the gray stone church with its weathered green dome, you find an octagonal interior representing the eight Beatitudes. At the center of the room sits an altar adorned with a marble arch over it. Below the dome with its golden mosaic, you find the Latinized sermon set in stained glass around the circumference.
When you are ready to leave your serene surroundings, consider a leisurely drive along the north shore of the Sea of Galilee and just drink in the scenery. With a little imagination, you might just discover your own special setting where Jesus could have performed one of his many miracles.
Galilee Christian Tour from Jerusalem
Private Tour: Nazareth, Tiberias and Sea of Galilee Day Trip from Tel Aviv
If You Go:
♦ The sites outlined above are most easily visited in one day with the use of a rental car. Book your rental car through www.plan-a-dream-trip.com/cheap-car-rental.html
♦ Visit the Israel webpage at www.plan-a-dream-trip.com/travel-to-israel.html
♦ Capernaum is located on the shore of the Sea of Galilee 10.8 km (6.73 miles) north east of present day Tiberias. Admission to Capernaum is 5 Shekels.
♦ The Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes and the Church of the Primacy of St. Peter are both located at Tabgha. Tabgha is 14 km (9 miles) north of Tiberias. Admission is free to both.
♦ The Church of the Beatitudes is located 3 km (2 miles) north of Capernaum. Admission is free but parking costs 5 Shekels.
About the author:
Troy Herrick, a freelance travel writer, has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. His articles have appeared in Live Life Travel, International Living, Offbeat Travel and Travel Thru History Magazines. Plan your vacation at his ”PlanADreamTrip.com” sites.
Photographs:
Diane Gagnon is a freelance photographer who has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. Her photographs have accompanied Troy Herrick’s articles in Live Life Travel, Offbeat Travel and Travel Thru History Magazines.
It takes about an hour by car to cross the 70 kilometers of straight desert road to get to Takht-e-Jamshid, Persepolis. A little way outside the site are the rock-cut tombs of Naksh-e-Rustam. High up on a flat rock face the idealised figures of several Achaemenid kings glare out from a set of royal tombs. Cut so high that they were only accessible with ropes, I have to crane my neck and strain my eyes to make out the images of several Persian kings, the builders of Persepolis. Below the tombs the later Sassanian dynasty also left a vivid reminder. In this image the Iranian king Shapur I, sits tall astride his war-horse whilst in front a Roman emperor bends a knee and begs the king for mercy. All these thousands of years later the tombs and images still retain their main purpose of demonstrating the power of the Persian kings.
Over two thousand years ago people trekked into the Southern Iranian desert bearing tribute to the mighty Persian Empire whose king sat enthroned in the courtyards and spacious halls of Persepolis. This gave the grand city its reputation as the most hated in the world and ultimately caused its fiery destruction by Alexander the Great. It never recovered from this destruction and the hollowed out shade of the city was left abandoned to the desert for centuries.
Once in the site, I came first to the impressive Gate of All Nations. The name referring to the subjects of the empire who would have had to pass through here. Above me loomed two huge human headed winged lions, their eroded bodies incised with the vertical and horizontal lines of three different languages which proclaim Xerxes I as their builder. The grand courtyard these beasts guard having long since vanished their intimidating bulk at least offers some protective shade. A little further on a finely carved capital of two bull’s heads lays flat on the ground. Unlike much else here they look fresh, pristine, as if just carved out of gleaming marble. It’s difficult to imagine that their huge weight could once have been hauled up to top a slender column.
One of the finest surviving elements of the site is the grand staircase which led to the Apadana Palace. The sides of the stairs contain some of the best surviving sculpture. It was here that the subject peoples would have to come bearing tribute. At the bottom of the staircase a lion grapples fiercely with a fleeing bull. This common piece of Persian iconography is still striking today. Climbing the staircase I was accompanied by the subject peoples. Greeks, Egyptians, Scythians, Afghans and a myriad others all processing up the steps to the palace at the top. The steps are cut deliberately shallow so you have to slow your pace and walk carefully before entering the presence of the King.
The fighting animals, strong soldiers and exotic subjects which lined the walls and the sheer opulence of the place must have made entering Persepolis an intimidating experience. Many from beyond Persia would only have come to Persepolis under compulsion. It is not surprising then that it was such a feared and hated place, the object of vengeful dreams for many people, despite its beauty. Once Alexander the Great defeated Persia and captured the city he had it burnt to the ground before leaving. As the architectural symbol of the Persian Empire, Alexander reckoned he could not leave it standing. The fire would have quickly rose and engulfed the wooden beams of the roof and brought them crashing down. Traces of this fiery end can still be seen across the site which was never rebuilt.
Rani our tour guide opened a door and ushered us out onto the grounds of Nazareth Village, a reconstruction of Jesus’ old neighbourhood. As he did so, I suddenly remembered that Rod Serling began every episode of the Twilight Zone with “you unlock this door with the key of imagination”. We knew that we had arrived in the past when we were almost bowled over by an oncoming shepherd and his five sheep. With very little effort he ushered his flock into a circular pen constructed of standing sticks. My second thought was to watch where I stepped, just in case.
A short distance away, seated outside the doorway of her stone house, a middle-aged woman sits and spins wool by means of a hand spindle. As some of the tour group found out, it is a great deal more difficult than it looks. Our guide outlines the steps required to process and dye the wool with natural colours from pomegranate and onion skin before it is woven into a garment.
he young Jesus would have also attended school. In those days, the local synagogue served as the community school. We entered the house of worship to find three tiers of benches lining the greyish-white walls; a wooden bench at the centre of the room held the Torah Scroll. This synagogue and all other building were reconstructed by referencing the best New Testament and archaeological sources available.
Present day Nazareth is a bustling city of approximately 70,000 people, a far cry from the 400 or so people living here at the time of Jesus. Work your way north along traffic-clogged Paulus VI Street and be thankful that you are not driving. Your first destination is St. Gabriel’s Church, the most distant site.
Retracing your steps along Paulus VI Street, turn right onto Casa Nova Street and arrive at the Roman Catholic Basilica of the Annunciation – the largest church in the Middle East. This church was built over the Grotto of the Annunciation, an ancient cave dwelling, traditionally accepted as being Mary’s home when she was visited by the Angel Gabriel. I could find no scriptural reference suggesting Mary lived in such a structure however.
Above the grotto structure you find a large octagonal opening in the ceiling providing you with a view of the upper church. The dark brown cupola of the upper church roof is also visible, extending to a dizzying height of 60 meters. The ribs of the cupola represent the petals of an upside-down lily, symbolic of Mary’s purity. To visit the upper church, ascend the staircase just inside the doorway of the lower church.
Christian tradition dating to the 7th century CE has it that Joseph’s house and carpenter shop were located on the site of the present Church of St. Joseph. Inside, the bare stone crypt features several rock-hewn chambers, a cistern and several silos for storing grain. A mosaic floor dates from Byzantine times. The nearby side chapel marks the spot where Joseph was visited by an angel as he slept (Matthew 1:20).
The Mount of the Precipice, 297 meters high, is now a park. From a lookout at the summit, you have a panoramic view of the surrounding area including distant Mount Tabor – the traditional site of the Transfiguration. But that journey will have to wait for another day. Instead you may wish to enjoy a leisurely stroll along the gravel path at the cliff’s edge and contemplate the meaning of your daytrip. As you take in the scenery, the essence of Jesus seems closer even though almost 2000 years have passed since he resided in his hometown of Nazareth.
For millennia, this mediaeval promontory, one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited locations, was a site of strategic military importance due to its commanding position on the trade route between Egypt and Syria. It is not surprising, therefore, that Acre’s history is a series of tumultuous invasions, defeats, victories and conquests that have played out over 1000’s of years by a multitude of conquering empires. Today, however, families of all nationalities and faiths live side by side in harmony in Acre, and the only shots heard over this UNESCO world heritage city come from cameras that belong to the army of tourists hungry to photograph this magnificent and intriguing historical site. Because even in this region of the world that teems with rich archaeological wonders, Akko stands out.
The tunnel, now restored and endowed with lighting, signage and a boardwalk alongside which rainwater flows freely to the sea, shrinks to just one meter in height before opening up to ground level at the resplendent Ottoman-built Pillar’s Inn (Khan Al-Umdan), a large multi-arched caravanserai, which was once the hub of international trade. From here, my explorations remain at ground level and lead me into the colorful Suk, the vibrant market street that forms the main thoroughfare of the Old City. It is midmorning and the market is crowded and bustling with activity as the locals attend to their shopping needs. Sweet stalls, vegetable stands, and shops selling clothing, ornaments, perfumes and other oriental artifacts, mix with bakeries, falafel shops, fishmongers and butchers stands, beneath which countless street cats make a healthy, if furtive, living. I amble slowly absorbing the sights and smells, and stop frequently to sample the delicious foods on offer.
The market street snakes past the beautiful emerald-domed Al-Jezzar mosque and towards the main citadel complex where archaeological excavations allow the visitor to literally descend through the layers of history. At the modern, and mercifully well air-conditioned, visitor center, I rent an audio guide and embark on my own discovery of these fascinating ruins. I am guided aurally through the existing fortress building, an Ottoman fortification that was built on the foundations of the ruined Crusader citadel, and then down to the underground Prisoner’s Hall, where during the period of British mandate hundreds of members of Jewish resistance movements (Haganah, Irgun and Lehi) were held prisoner and even executed. The tour then descends further underground to the recently excavated Knights’ Hall comprising a series of long narrow chambers with ten meter high vaulted ceilings and massive dividing walls connected by great arched entrances. Also preserved in time are the remains of a dungeon, living quarters, and a mediaeval church. Tantalizingly, some of the rooms of this impressive feat of 13th century architecture remain roped off with teams of archaeologists and engineers busy with ongoing excavations: a promise of more exciting discoveries for future generations of tourists to behold.
Ascending from the cavernous subterranean ruins of the Knights Hall I find myself at the entrance to the Hamam al Basha, a traditional 18th century Turkish bathhouse that remained in use until the 1940’s. Today the bathhouse has been reinvented as a light and sound experience in which a moderately humorous but slightly lengthy video presentation attempts to portray everyday life in the bathhouse culture. Despite the cheesy audio-visuals, the expertly restored, beautifully ornate bathhouse is well worth a visit. The entrance is a superb, domed-roof, marble room decorated with exquisite traditional ceramic tiles. A large marble fountain takes pride of place in the center of the room. At the base of the tiled walls there are small cavities, lockers of the past, which would one day have held the shoes and belongings of bathers. I take my sandals off and the chill of the 200-year-old marble floor feels wonderful on my weary feet. I proceed barefoot through a narrow corridor of smaller rooms where some of the more refined aspects of personal grooming and hygiene would have occurred, and into the main steam room – the social heart of the hamam. Here the domed ceiling has been perforated with geometrically placed holes through which hundreds of shafts of light penetrate to the raised marble massage area below. The dappled light is soothing and serene. Sculpted bronze figures and other relics placed around the large octagonal steam room help to recreate the authentic renowned feeling of communal relaxation for which the Turkish hamams were famous.
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