Middle East Travel

Exploring Oman’s Colorful History in Muscat

by Inka Piegsa-quischotte

When preparing for my recent five day trip to Oman, I was surprised to read on several informative websites that ‘there is not much to see and do in Muscat itself’. This being the capital of Oman and knowing something about the country’s colorful history, I seriously doubted the validity of this statement and, sure enough, I am able prove it wrong. In fact, there is so much to see that I would have loved to have more than one day for Muscat alone.

History does not always mean ‘ancient history’. Technically, yesterday is already history and, from that point of view, just over 40 years certainly qualifies as history. You see, most of the sprawling city which unfolded before my eyes on the way from the airport to my hotel on the beach was built after 1970. The panorama documents the history of oil wealth in the Middle East. Mind you, Oman is not a rags to riches story. Located on one of the most important trade routes and with one of the world’s biggest natural harbors, Oman has always been a wealthy country, particularly in the 17th century under the rule of the Ya’ruba dynasty.

The discovery of oil however has given the country an unprecedented economical boost and it is my very personal opinion that the wealthy past has determined that the billions of petro dollars have been put to brilliant use. There is absolutely nothing ‘nouveau riche’ about modern Muscat. The difference to nearby Dubai is striking. Muscat has only one high rise, the Hilton Hotel and that has only 14 stories. Otherwise the buildings have all been designed in traditional Omani style with round towers, huge walls, carved wooden doors and small windows to keep out the heat. The only colors in evidence are white and sand, no garish paint, no gold, no colorful tiles, no adornment other than stone arabesques carved into the mantels. The overall impression is of cool elegance and understated wealth. Very, very soothing on the eye and beautifully in harmony with the country.

Even Sultan Qaboos’ famous Grand Mosque, a massive structure which can accommodate 20.000 worshippers and was inaugurated in 2001, is made from Indian sandstone. The dome is gilded, but discreetly covered with white lattice, so that only the occasional ray of gold glitters through. The interior is another matter altogether, featuring the world’s second largest hand woven carpet made in Iran and an enormous chandelier made in Germany. Because I visited during Ramadan, I couldn’t see the interior of the mosque, that will be reserved for another visit.

Already in love with the serene beauty of modern Muscat, my friend and I decided to visit the Muttrah souk, one of the oldest souks in all of the Middle East. During Ramadan, the souk is only open at night and, as Eid was approaching, people were out in doves to shop for clothes, jewelry and gifts in preparation for the festivities marking the end of the holy month. Two things held our attention: the ever present scent of frankincense which burns in every doorway and is one of the most important items on offer and the beautifully carved roof, reflecting the age old art of Omani wood carvings. In fact, so important is frankincense to Oman that a huge burner, high up on a hill is one of the most famous landmarks of Muscat.

The next day we wanted to explore Muscat some more and also visit the part known as Old Muscat. To our disappointment, there is next to no public transport. We love to travel on local buses. But, at a price of 50cents for a liter of gas it doesn’t come as a surprise that everybody has at least one car. So, we took a taxi, passing by the modern, exquisite shopping complex in Ruwi on our way to the Sultan’s palace. It’s the only colorful building in blue and gold with nearly identical front and back which can be seen from the landside as well as from the water.

Flanked by two massive castles, Al Mirani and Al Jalali, the palace is surprisingly unguarded and you can approach right up to the gate. The two forts date back to the 15th century, when the Portuguese ruled over Oman and mark the entrance to Muscat bay. The best view is, again from the sea, as we found out when we embarked on not one but three boat trips.

The first took us out to sea to watch dolphins at play, the second along the breath taking coastline with alternating rock formations in white marble and black granite with tiny sand beaches in between. Boat trip #3 was dedicated to experiencing the coastline bathed in the rays of the sinking sun on board a traditional Oman dhow.

Although we missed the much praised fish market (again, due to Ramadan) we were luck to discover Bait Al Zubair, a museum dedicated to the history of Omani art, crafts and folklore. Sadly, no photography is allowed inside, but admiring the fabulous silver jewelry and daggers, colorful clothes from all regions of the country as well as an explanation of the lineage of the current sultan caught our attention so much, that we forgot all about picture taking. Muscat has a few more museums, like the National Museum, the Armed Forces Museum and the Wall Museum.

There are parks to wander in, narrow streets in Old Muscat to stroll through, some serious shopping to do in the souk as well as in the Ruwi shopping mall, more boat trips to enjoy, swimming in the Golf of Oman to be done, food to be sampled in the restaurants (again, all closed during Ramadan) that I really fail to see how anyone can say that there isn’t much to do and see in Muscat.

Full-Day Guided Jebel Akhdar Tour From Muscat

If You Go:

If you can stand the heat and humidity it’s a good idea to go in August, because prices are much lower than in full season and visitors are few. If not, the best months to visit are from November to May.

Women do not need to cover their heads (except when visiting a mosque) but they have to cover their shoulders and upper arms and wear at least calf lengths pants or skirts. Bikinis are allowed on private beaches, on public beaches wear a one piece or thin T-shirt on top, even in the water.

Best souvenirs to buy are frankincense, perfume and silver.

If, like me, you visit during Ramadan, be aware that no eating, drinking or smoking is allowed in public until iftar. That applies to everybody, Muslim or not.

Most nationalities can obtain a visa at the airport which ranged from 10 days (5 Rial) to 1 month. Immigration and customs was a matter of minutes, very smooth and problem free. For all our trips we used www.muscatcaravan.com, very reliable and comfortable. You can rent a car through them too.

About the author:
Inka Piegsa-quischotte is an ex-attorney turned travel writer and novelist. She writes for online travel magazines and has two novels and a travel guide to Galicia/Spain published. She lives between Turkey and Miami.

All photos are by Inka Piegsa-quischotte.

Jordan: Playing in Petra

by Becky Garrison

When I came upon the Indiana Jones gift and coffee shops and the Titanic Coffee Shop situated at the entrance to Petra, I got the giggles. Looks like some folks might want to make a buck out of Jordan’s #1 tourist attraction. After passing by a slew of guide trying to “assist” the tourists, I set off on a sandy path. Soon we passed what would be the first of many tombs to come.

After I turned the corner, I felt Lilliputian standing below a row of 400- to 650-foot ragged sandstone mountains. I walked between two massive rocks via the Siq, a narrow gorge filled with natural ravines and fissures. Everywhere I turned along this approximately half-mile path, Mother Nature or an earthborn artisan had carved a sculpture, water channel, shrine to some deity, or some other design into the stone.

Out of the corner of my eye I caught a peek of al-Khazneh (the Treasury). With each step, the Treasury came closer and closer until finally I stood in front of this royal tomb carved into the rock. Built sometime between 100 BCE and 200 CE, the tomb got its name from the legend that pirates hid their treasure in a giant stone urn. Bullet holes on the urn indicate that the Bedouins believed this myth and made numerous attempts to retrieve this booty.

Continuing the sandy path, we approached an eight-thousand-seat Roman amphitheater surrounded by a burial bonanza. Local Bedouins used to occupy the caves we spotted off in the distance. The government outlawed this practice in 1984 out of a concern to preserve the monuments. The Bedouins resettled nearby, though as a compromise of sorts, they’re the only merchants allowed to conduct commerce inside the walls of Petra.

After lunch, I rode up to al-Deir (the Monastery) on donkeys. The thought of climbing up eight hundred steep steps as the temperature hovered near 100 degrees didn’t sound appealing. Horses and camels balk at this almost vertical climb, but donkeys can do it. As the path narrowed and steepened, my stomach felt a bit like it did the first time I rode the Coney Island Cyclone. Still, my donkey never missed a step, stopping only to relieve himself. (My sympathy for those who chose to walk to the monastery, because the path was littered with donkey dung.)

Once our donkeys crossed over the final step, I dismounted and walked up a small hill toward this craggy unfinished edifice. Slowly I walked up a short dusty path. Since there were no guardrails at the mountain’s edge, I carefully approached the crest. With each step, purple peaks winked at me as though they’re daring me to venture into God’s playpen, a spectacle of nature so vast that the Grand Canyon seems like a watering hole in comparison. As stunning as the man-made Treasury and Monastery might be (and they are truly magnificent wonders of the world), nothing can surpass the beauty of nature’s own artistic endeavors.

One Day Tour To Petra From Amman

If You Go:

Petra is a UNESCO World Heritage site: whc.unesco.org/en/list/326
Jordan info: www.lonelyplanet.com/jordan

About the author:
Becky Garrison is a freelance writer who has authored six books with a seventh book in development. In addition to penning a book on pilgrimages for Zondervan (a subsidiary of Harper Collins), she has written articles about destination travel and travel products for several publications, including 52 Perfect Days, Yahoo, Sportsology.net and Killing the Buddha. about.me/BeckyGarrison These reflections were excerpted from Jesus Died for This? (www.amazon.com/Jesus-Died-This-Religious-ebook)

All photos are by Becky Garrison.

Qatar: Skyscrapers Souqs & Sandscapes

by Irene Butler

Since tales of Aladdin swept my imagination away on a magic carpet in grade school, my desire to journey through the Arabian Peninsula has not waned. Sixty years later I am to realize this dream. My husband Rick and I arrive in Qatar, the small country that jets into the Arabian Sea like a thumb off Saudi Arabia’s border, to discover how this culture steeped in tradition has melded with modernity.

On our first day in the capital of Doha we jauntily begin a stroll on Al-Corniche, the eight kilometer, U-shaped avenue that hugs the shimmering turquoise Gulf waters and is dotted with date palms, flowering plants and amazing sculptures. After a few kilometres we know why we are almost alone on this promenade and the stream of vehicles on the roadway with windows rolled-up-tight against the broiling sun makes sense. Our walk is likened to a hike across the Sahara. We thirstily forge ahead to the gleaming towers of glass and steel around the bend, knowing they are not a mirage. Qatar has not escaped skyscraper building fury of the oil-rich countries. We welcome the stunning marble and glass architecture of the City Centre Doha Mall, and blissfully nestle in coffee shop armchairs with a litre of H2O and silky-smooth cappuccinos before heading back to our hotel…in an air-conditioned taxi.

We find Souq Waqif (market) the perfect place to soak up tradition, with a bonus of both outdoor sections and those sheltered from Old Sol. Waqif has been around since the days when Bedouin nomads traded goats, sheep and wool for essential items. Restorations have not changed the maze of passageways with mud rendered walls and wood beamed ceilings. We meander past small shops piled high with spices, dates, figs, perfumes, pots, dishes, plastic everything, aquarium fishes, birds, puppies, and bunnies. A father passes with his small daughter clinging to his one hand, while in the other he carries his purchase – a falcon. The ancient art of Falconry dates back to at least the 7th century BC, and although Westerners find using these birds of prey for sport objectionable, it is prevalent in the Arab countries and the Bedu are the grand masters.

This market is frequented by those hooked on hookahs. Every restaurant and cafe is filled with customers puffing their choice of sheesha (flavoured tobacco) through bubbling water pipes. The air is opaque with the smoky bouquet of sweet apple, strawberry, rose and mint. Seeing Rick puzzle over a hookah apparatus, Hussein, a waiter at Café Tasse, invites us out back to where a dozen pipes are being made ready for patrons.

In a Sheesha 101 lesson Hussein demonstrates the basics. Billows of smoke rise into the air with each puff. Rick tries next. With my camera aimed, I wait…and wait for a billow…ahhh, at last, a pouf of smoke the size of a walnut. “Not as easy as it looks,” claims Rick, as Hussein cheers, “Way to go!”

Upon checking our “must do” list for Qatar, seeing the desert landscapes and camel races are in the forefront. The dilemma – not even the tour offices have advance notice of when the camel races will be held. We are told to check the daily newspapers for race dates, or call the racing committee.

It is our new friend Jerri to the rescue! Jerri is one of the many expatriates who works in the country’s oil industry. He graciously offers to drive us to the unique limestone formations known as “desert mushrooms” at Bir Zekreet, and lucky for us, the famed camel race track of Al-Shahaniya is on the way!

As we approach the track, my heart leaps at the sight of these ships of the desert everywhere; in compounds along the roadway, and strings of them crisscrossing the highway bringing traffic to a halt. We pull into the Al-Shahaniya complex and gleefully make our way to the track. Practicing jockeys and camels in bunches race by stirring up clouds of dust. Some of the jockeys bouncing along on an adult camel also hold the reins of a juvenile camel with no rider; no doubt a learning process for the gangly young’un.

Duly thrilled by this “sport of sheikhs”, we barrel south again and make it to Bir Zekreet at sunset. The fading light casts an eerie glow over the weirdly spectacular “mushrooms”, the result of winds that have whittled away the softer sedimentary rock leaving pillars below large intact tops – a geography lesson of desert formation.

We proceed still further south to the town of Dukhan, the location of a massive natural gas plant and huge compound for employees with every amenity – deluxe accommodations, shopping and restaurants. Qatar is the largest exporter of liquefied natural gas in the world. Along with crude oil and banking, the country has one of the fastest growing world economies, with an extremely high per capita income. The State of Qatar is ruled by the popular emir, Sheikh Hamad bin Khalifa al-Thani, whose family has been in power since the mid-18th century. In 2005 a cabinet and advisory council was voted in to assist in the running of Qatar, which is considered one of the most politically stable countries in the region.

Back in Doha we see more evidence of the country’s wealth in the stadiums of Sport City, built for the 2006 Asian Games, the largest ever held. At the nearby Villagio Mall Jerri says, “the extravagance must be seen to be believed”. Shoppers take time for a gondola ride along the faux-Venetian canal running through the middle of the mall’s ultra-wide corridors. A gigantic food court overlooks an ice rink where a hockey game is in progress; the skating finesse and puck-handling of the players aged 12 to 14 years is top-notch.

Being Friday, the first day of the Muslim weekend, the mall is wall-to-wall with congregations of family and friends. In the multi-cultural mix of a population of 900,000, 75% are expatriates from around the world employed in jobs ranging from janitors to CEOs. Qataris make up the remaining 25% and are distinguishable by their dress and apparent affluence. Rolex watches peek from the sleeves of men’s impeccable white throbe (floor-length shirt-dress) as they twirl a set of prayer beads between thumb and forefinger, which may be made of pearls, jade, or gold nuggets. Their gutra (white head cloth) secured by black-tasselled head-rope called an agal looks dashing. Women’s abeyyas (black robes) and hejabs (head scarves) are trimmed with gold, silver or gems; their fingers and wrists flash diamonds the size of marbles as they tote bags with purchases from top-fashion designers. Seeing a Lamborghini with gold wheel rims as we left the mall is the ultimate in excess.

Our exhilarating week in Qatar went by in a flash. I came away feeling a genie had granted my wish. The bazaar-like souqs and harsh desert terrain were everything I imagined in the Arabia of old, combined with the boom decade’s dazzling skyscrapers and Disney-like malls, all warmly fused with traditional Bedouin hospitality are now fond memories.

Full-day Private Qatar Desert Safari from Doha

If You Go:

Qatar – www.qatartourism.gov.qa

Visas –
Canadians can obtain a visa upon entry.
For requirements see: www.canadainternational.gc.ca/qatar/

Climate –
Summer (May to September) average day temp 35C (95F) but can surpass 50C (122F) high humidity and frequent dust storms.
Winter – pleasant temp during the day 26C (80F) with cooler evenings. Most of the 8cm (3in) of annual rainfall occurs during Dec and Jan.

Religion –
Most Qataris, like Saudi Arabians, adhere to the austere Wahhabi sect of Islam, with strict codes of conduct. Visiting women are not required to don traditional dress (as in Saudi Arabia) but men and women visitors should dress conservatively.

Air Travel to Qatar –
Best since it is difficult to get a transit visa to cross Saudi Arabia from other Arabian Peninsula countries.
www.qatarairways.com
ca.skyscanner.com

Budget hotel suggestion –
Fuda Hotel, Al Muthaf Street, Old Salata, Doha – 5 min walk to the waterfront (no direct website, but look for it on wholesale hotel sites).

About the author:
Travel writer and author, Irene Butler, along with her photographer husband Rick travel the world for 6 months of each year, and have immersed themselves in 85 countries to date. Their home base is Richmond, BC.

All photos are by Rick Butler.

Jerusalem: The Last Days Of Jesus

Israel

by Troy Herrick

Almost two thousand years ago, the world was changed forever by the death and resurrection of Jesus. With the spread of Christianity, countless pilgrims have visited Jerusalem over the ages to renew their faith at the holy sites associated with his last days. Visitors today might be under the impression that these locations are unique and firmly established but this is not necessarily true. In fact, the Temple Mount is likely the only site linked with Jesus’ final days that can be firmly established.

While the four Canonical Gospels provide specific places for the events associated with Jesus’ passion, they do not provide locations that can be confirmed by archaeology. Tradition has largely established the holy spots in and around the Old City of Jerusalem. These have often been altered over the generations, destroyed in long ago wars or buried under churches. The real challenge you face is putting these sites into their proper context as they no longer look the way they did during the time of Jesus. This can really strain your imagination.

Professional tours through the Old City are a relatively recent development. These tours are often prohibitively expensive with limited time available at each location. Alternatively you can take the two-day “do-it-yourself” tour outlined below. You will not visit the sites in the same order as outlined in the scriptures but you will have more time for contemplation at each one. Your costs are limited to the price of admission to two optional sites (the Treasures of the Temple Museum and the Citadel). These have been included to enhance your Biblical experience but your pilgrimage of faith will not be diminished in any way if you choose to pass on them.

DAY ONE

Church of the Dominus Flevit

Jesus’ triumphal entry into Jerusalem on a colt fulfilled the prophecy of Zechariah (Zechariah 9:9). As he descended the Mount of Olives, he stopped and looked out over the city. Jesus wept upon seeing the Holy Temple across the Kidron Valley (Luke 19:41-44) because he knew that Jerusalem would be destroyed – and it came to pass in 70 CE. This event is commemorated half way down the Mount of Olives where you find the “tear drop”-shaped Church of the Dominus Flevit (Latin for “the Lord Wept”).

Entering the church, your eyes are immediately drawn to the arch-shaped picture window behind the altar. Those attending mass might be forgiven (hopefully) for being distracted by the magnificent view of the Old City of Jerusalem set within the window frame. The Dome of the Rock and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre are both conspicuous in this picture.

The present-day church is set upon the ruins of a 5th century Byzantine Monastery. Traces of this former complex have been incorporated into the present-day structure. These include a mosaic depicting fruit, leaves, fish and flowers just inside the main entrance and the top slab of an ancient altar near the back of the church. When you complete your visit, exit the church and walk downhill to the Garden of Gethsemane and the Basilica of the Agony.

The Garden of Gethsemane

Before he was betrayed, Jesus visited the Garden of Gethsemane to pray (Matthew 26:30, Mark 14:32, Luke 22:12, John 13:1). Located at the foot of the Mount of Olives, the Garden of Gethsemane showcases the Basilica of the Agony with its mosaic façade depicting Jesus as the mediator between God and man.

Entering the grounds, you are surrounded by gnarled olive trees that are hundreds of years old. While you might wish to believe that these trees date to the time of Jesus, this is unlikely. The Romans cut down all the trees in the area during the siege of Jerusalem in 70 CE.

Inside the basilica, dark alabaster windows set the sombre mood for the agony and betrayal of Jesus. The flat “Stone of Agony” near the altar marks the spot where Jesus sweated blood (Luke 22:44) as he prayed. A mosaic behind the altar preserves that moment in time.

When you finish your visit to the basilica, walk down to the Old City and pass through St. Stephen’s Gate into the Muslim Quarter where you find yourself on the Via Dolorosa. The former site of the Praetorium is your first stop.

The Praetorium

Jesus was taken from the House of Caiaphas to Pontius Pilate at the Praetorium (Matthew 27:11, Mark 15:1, Luke 23:1, John 18:29). Traditionally the Antonia Fortress is accepted as the Praetorium but it was destroyed by the Romans in 70 CE. The Al-Omariya School for Boys now occupies the former site of this fortress. The cobblestone courtyard of the school is the first of fourteen Stations of the Cross on the Via Dolorosa.

Also on the site of the original Antonia Fortress, the Franciscan Monastery is located opposite the Al-Omariya School on the Via Dolorosa. This monastery houses both the Church of the Flagellation and Church of the Condemnation (the 2nd Station of the Cross).

The Church of the Flagellation marks the site where Jesus was flogged (Matthew 27:26, John 19:1). Inside you find stained glass windows depicting Christ being whipped and Pontius Pilate washing his hands of the whole affair. The dome above you incorporates a crown of thorns in mosaic form.

The Church of Condemnation is the traditional site where Jesus received his cross and was led away to his crucifixion (Matthew 27:31, Mark 15:20, Luke 23:25, John 19:16). Behind the altar you find a diorama depicting the moment of condemnation.

This church is set upon a Roman flagstone road called the “lithostatos” (John 19:13). The lithostratos upon which you are standing is from the time of the Roman Emperor Hadrian, almost a century after Christ. As such this site unlikely hosted any of the Biblical events associated with the last days of Jesus.

Recent archaeological evidence suggests that the Praetorium was actually Herod’s Palace, now part of the Citadel, near the Jaffa Gate. You can tour the Citadel and see wall sections dating to the time of Jesus. This tour is best left until the end of Day 2.

Continue down the Via Dolorosa to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. A number of events associated with the various Stations of the Cross either did not appear in the scriptures or they did not occur at identifiable locations. As such they are not included here but that should not deter you from visiting them anyway. En route you may also wish to shop for that perfect souvenir as you will be passing through the marketplace (souk).

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the holiest site in Christendom, is the traditional site of the crucifixion and tomb of Jesus. Enter the church and climb the well-worn stairs immediately to your right to the top of Golgotha/Calvary (Matthew 23:35, Mark 15:22, Luke 23:33, John 19:17). Here you enter the Roman Catholic Chapel of the Nailing of the Cross – the 11th Station of the Cross.

The adjacent Greek Orthodox Chapel showcases the rock of Calvary set behind glass under the altar – the 12th Station. Also visible under the altar is a star with a hole in the center marking the spot where Jesus died on the cross (Matthew 27:50, Mark 15:37, Luke 23:46, John 19:30). Feel free to extend your hand down into the hole when you reach the front of the line.

Descend the stairs and walk over to the Edicule which is the structure, supported by a dark metal frame on the exterior, preserving the location of Christ’s tomb (Matthew 27:60, Mark 15:46, Luke 23:53, John 19:41-42). Tradition holds that the Roman Emperor Constantine had the rock face of Golgotha cut away from around the tomb leaving only a stone shell. This shell was levelled in 1009 CE on the orders of the “mad” Caliph Al-Hakim. The next structure to occupy this space was the current Edicule, constructed in the 19th century.

Join the line to enter the Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre inside the Edicule – the 14th Station of the Cross. Inside you find a reconstructed slab on your right consisting of two marble stones. A vase with candles marks the spot where Jesus’ head once rested.

If your imagination feels somewhat stretched with your visit the Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre, you may wish to visit the Garden Tomb where many Protestants believe that Jesus was laid to rest. Scripture holds that Jesus was set down in a new tomb (Matthew 27:60, John 19:41); as such this 9th-7th century BCE tomb with 4th – 6th century CE slabs does not fit the Biblical description.

DAY TWO

The Temple Mount

Jesus drove the money lenders from the Temple (Luke 19:45, Matthew 21:12, Mark 11:15) and then taught there over the next several days (Matthew24:1, Mark 11:27, Luke 19:47). A visit to the Temple Mount today requires a great deal of visualization. Nothing from the time of Jesus remains except for the platform and support walls.

The exact location of the holy structure on the platform is the subject of much debate. Tradition holds that the Temple once occupied the same space as the present-day Dome of the Rock. Archeologists have not been able to confirm this because they are not permitted to work on the site. You may gain some insight into the temple structure with a visit to the nearby Treasures of the Temple Museum. Here you find a white marble model of the holy building and reconstructed equipment for use in a third Temple.

The present Temple Mount (also known as Haram ash-Sharif meaning “Noble Sanctuary” in Arabic) holds the Dome of the Rock and the Al Aqsa Mosque. The Dome of the Rock is decorated with colorful Turkish tiles and white marble. The dome is gold leaf set over aluminum. Non-Muslims were not permitted to enter at the time of my visit. A nearby ticket booth suggests that this was not always the case however.

The Al Aqsa Mosque at the southern end of the platform is the third holiest site in Islam after the shrines in Mecca and Medina respectively. The façade of this mosque consists of fourteen stone arches. While entry to the mosque is through the central arch, non-Muslims are not permitted to enter.

When you have completed your visit, exit the Temple Mount and stop by the Western Wall below – the holiest site in Judaism. Men enter this outdoor synagogue on the left side and women on the right. Men should also remember to keep their heads covered if they enter this outdoor synagogue. After leaving the Western Wall, your next stop is the Coenaculum on nearby Mount Zion.

The Coenaculum

The Coenaculum (Latin for “dining room”) is the traditional site of the Last Supper (John 13:1, Luke 22:12, Mark 14:17, Matthew 26:20) and where the Apostles received the Holy Spirit on Pentecost (Acts 1:13, 2:1). Crusaders constructed this room in the 14th century on top of an older base that could date to the time of Jesus. Therefore in reality, the current hall with three naves encloses the space where Jesus celebrated Passover.

The Ottoman Turks took control of the site and transformed it into a mosque. Imagine Leonardo Da Vinci’s fresco of the Last Supper set in this room with limestone pillars, gothic arches and the vestiges of a mosque providing the backdrop. A prayer niche, known as a mihrab, on the wall still serves to direct people toward Mecca; and Arabic script is still visible below one of the windows. Exit using the door to the right of the mihrab and walk to the Church of St. Peter in Gallicantu.

The Church of St. Peter in Gallicantu

Set on a sheer hillside, the Church of St. Peter in Gallicantu is the traditional the site of the High Priest Caiaphas’ house. Jesus was brought before Caiaphas immediately after his arrest (Luke 22:54, Mark 14:54, John 18:24, Matthew 26:57). You can easily find this church by looking for the roof with a golden rooster set on top of a cross. The rooster identifies this as the site where Peter denied Christ three times before the cock crowed (Matthew 26:69-75, Mark 14:66-72, Luke 22:55-62, John 18:25-27) hence the name “Gallicantu” (Latin for “the cock’s crow”). A statue in the courtyard depicts the event.

The church was constructed on top of ancient prison cells hewn into the bedrock and dating to the time of Jesus. Entry was originally facilitated by being lowered down with a rope through a hole in the ceiling. Don’t worry, you can descend in a more dignified fashion by means of the “Holy Stairs”. As a prisoner, Jesus was likely kept here in total darkness while he awaited his trial before Caiaphas. This being the case, it is somewhat surprising to find a peephole for guards to look into the cell.

The churchyard features a number of ruins including olive presses, a bath house and a stone stairway leading to the Pool of Silwan below. Jesus may have used this stairway as he walked from the Coenaculum to the Garden of Gethsemane by way of the Kidron Valley before his betrayal. Visitors also find a model of the Old City of Jerusalem during the 4th-6th centuries CE. The Temple Mount is conspicuously bare and remained that way until the Dome of the Rock was constructed in 691 CE after the Muslim conquest.

This “do-it-yourself” tour concludes here if you choose not to visit the two optional sites. You can return to the Armenian Quarter of the Old City by way of the Zion Gate. If you have worked up an appetite, why not try some Armenian food at the Armenian Tavern. Highly recommended is the Selected Plate that includes a mixed grill consisting of sausage, onion and peppers (Soujouk), followed by a thin garlic sausage (Basturma), a wheat-covered falafel (Kubbeh) and a savory Armenian pizza. The cost was 60 Shekels at the time of my visit.

If You Go:

This tour is best accomplished in two consecutive days from Monday to Thursday. Visitors should remember that Friday, Saturday and Sunday are the Muslim, Jewish and Christian holy days respectively. As such, some of the respective sites may be inaccessible because of religious services on these days. Your tour should be flexible.

You can visit the Tourist Information Office at the Jaffa Gate for maps to each site.

The Basilica of the Agony, also known as the Church of All Nations, and the Garden of Gethsemane are located at the foot of the Mount of Olives. You can’t miss the mosaic on the basilica facade. Admission is free

The Church of the Dominus Flevit is located on the main road for ascending the Mount of Olives. You can find this road behind the Garden of Gethsemane. Admission is free

The site of the Praetorium is about 300 meters west of St. Stephen’s Gate on the Via Dolorosa. Look for the Al-Omariya School for Boys on your left. Admission to the courtyard is free.

The Franciscan Monastery is across the street from the Al-Omariya School for Boys. Admission is free.

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is in the Christian Quarter but the structure is obscured by the many shops in the souk. You should ask for directions. Admission is free.

To reach the Garden Tomb, exit the Old City by way of the Damascus Gate. Cross the street and walk along Nablus Road for approximately 400 meters until you reach Conrad Schick Street on your right. The sign for the Garden Tomb is clearly visible. Admission is free.

The entrance to the Temple Mount is inside the Dung Gate. Pass through security to enter the site. The Temple Mount is open from Sunday to Thursday from 7:30 – 11 am and from 1:30 to 2:30 pm. Admission is free.

To access the Western Wall of the Temple Mount you must pass through security again inside the Dung Gate. Admission is free.

The Coenaculum is accessed from the main lane on Mount Zion. Walk through the alley towards Dormitian Abbey and look for the sign. Admission is free.

The Church of St. Peter in Gallicantu is on the eastern slope of Mount Zion. Admission is free.

The Treasures of the Temple Museum is located in the Jewish Quarter at 19 Misgav Ladach St. off of Yisrael Road. Admission was 25 Shekels at the time of my visit.

The Citadel, also known as the Tower of David, is inside the Jaffa Gate to your right. Admission was 30 Shekels at the time of my visit.

The Armenian Tavern is located at Armenian Orthodox Patriarchate Rd #79, a short walk from the Citadel, in the Armenian Quarter.

Remember to wear good walking shoes and sunscreen.

For more information about Israel, visit www.plan-a-dream-trip.com/travel-to-israel.html

About the author:
Troy Herrick, a freelance travel writer, has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. His articles have appeared in Live Life Travel, International Living, Offbeat Travel and Travels Thru History Magazines. He also penned the travel planning e-book entitled ”Turn Your Dream Vacation into Reality: A Game Plan for Seeing the World the Way You Want to See It” – www.thebudgettravelstore.com/page/76972202 based on his own travel experiences over the years. Plan your vacation at his www.thebudgettravelstore.com and his www.plan-a-dream-trip.com sites.

Photographs:
Diane Gagnon, a freelance photographer, has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. Her photographs have accompanied Troy Herrick’s articles in Live Life Travel, Offbeat Travel and Travels Thru History Magazines.

A Visit to the Site of the First Christmas

Bethlehem, Palestine

by Troy Herrick

Set on the edge of a hill in the little town of Bethlehem, the gray stone Basilica of the Nativity is built over a cave housing the traditional site of Jesus’ birth. Divided between the Greek Orthodox, Roman Catholic and Armenian Churches, the layout of the present structure is as complex as the relationships between the three Christian sects. Tension is always in the air and the slightest incident, like adjusting another’s candlestick, can have major ramifications; and the respective clergy does not turn the other cheek. Fights have even been recorded.

St. Helena, the mother of the Roman Emperor Constantine, commissioned this basilica in the 4th century CE. Over a century later in 565 CE, the Byzantine Emperor Justinian rebuilt this structure after a Samaritan uprising destroyed it. Add some images from the Crusader Period and you find a hodgepodge of the ages. Even with the past renovations and upgrades, the Basilica of the Nativity remains the oldest continuously operating church in the Holy Land. Your tour begins outside the front door.

The Basilica of the Nativity

As I strained to enter the basilica through the main door, I suddenly remembered the parable of the camel and the eye of a needle (Matthew 19:24). Known as the “Door of Humility”, the main entrance measures a mere 0.2 by 0.4 square meters. Why would the second holiest site in Christendom require such a small door? Cynics might think that it was to prevent the congregation from exiting en mass during a boring sermon; but actually this centuries-old door was designed to prevent looters from loading up wagons with ill-gotten gains.

As you straighten up, you find yourself in a nave filled with 44 polished reddish white limestone Corinthian columns from the original 4th century CE structure, organized into four rows. The faded images of saints, painted during the Crusader Period, adorn the upper sections of each column. Unfortunately the poor lighting obscures some of these images. Tension between the three Christian sects has prevented their restoration. Another trace of the original church is the mosaic floor now hidden beneath a trap door. Feel free to take a look at the bird, flower and vine patterns.

The Altar of the Nativity at the front of the church, belonging to the Greek Orthodox Church, is decorated with angels and icons. This high altar is set directly above the traditional spot of Jesus’ birth in the Grotto of the Nativity below. You visit the grotto by descending the stairways on either side of the altar.

The Grotto of the Nativity

The Grotto of the Nativity has been hewn into the bedrock. I was somewhat taken aback upon entering this cave because the Gospel of Matthew indicates that the three wise men came into a house (Matthew 2:11) not a cave. Apparently the new parents lived as troglodytes during their stay in Bethlehem.

Visitors find several sacred spots inside the grotto. The most important of these is a raised marble platform with a fourteen-point silver star. The Latin inscription on the star identifies this as the spot where Mary gave birth to Jesus.

The nearby Chapel of the Manger has a white marble trough, set under the altar, as its focal point. This marks the spot where the original, now long gone, manger was situated (Luke 2:7). Visitors should note that the Gospels do not mention that farm animals were present at the Nativity. This inference likely arises because a manger is usually associated with farm animals. Perhaps the manger was moved into the house away from the farm animals?

A narrow hallway leads you from the grotto to two other notable chapels related to the Nativity story. The Chapel of the Innocents commemorates the children slain by King Herod’s soldiers who were trying to locate the infant Jesus (Matthew 2:16-18); and the nearby Chapel of St Joseph is dedicated to the angel appearing to Joseph in a dream and directing him to flee to Egypt with his family (Matthew 2:13).

Observant visitors will find a heavy wooden door with a peep hole in the hallway near the Chapel of the Innocents. At the height of the tension between the three Christian sects, this door was locked thereby barring Roman Catholics from visiting the Greek Orthodox shrine in the grotto.

Your next destination is the Church of St. Catherine set above these two chapels. Ascend the stairs near the Chapel of St. Joseph and find yourself just inside of the front door of the church.

The Church of St. Catherine

Built in 1861, the Roman Catholic Church of St. Catherine adjoins the basilica. This church commemorates Christ’s appearance to St Catherine of Alexandria. Jesus warned Catherine of her impending martyrdom in 310 CE. At the front of the church, the high altar is situated over the Chapel of the Innocents.

The church boasts a bas-relief of the Tree of Jesse outlining Jesus’ lineage from Abraham to Joseph. The upper portion of the bas-relief depicts Christ blessing the earth. Pope Benedict XVI gifted this bas-relief during his visit to the Holy Land in 2009.

When you complete your visit, exit the church complex and cross the road to Manger Square. Lining the periphery of the square is a number of shops where you can look for that perfect souvenir of your visit to Bethlehem. After purchasing our souvenir, it was time for Diane and me to return to Jerusalem because there was no room at the inn.

Private Full-Day Tour of Jerusalem and Bethlehem

If You Go:

Bethlehem is in the West Bank and controlled by the Palestinian Authority. To visit this city you have the option of traveling alone using bus #21, departing from the Arab bus station near the Damascus Gate in Jerusalem, to Bethlehem. Alternatively you can take a Bethlehem City Tour with a Palestinian tour guide. I recommend Green Olive Tours.

Remember to bring your passport with you in order to pass through the Israeli military checkpoint.

Admission to the Church of the Nativity is free.

You are invited to visit my Israel webpage. www.plan-a-dream-trip.com/travel-to-israel.html

Photo credits:
All photographs are by Diane Gagnon. She is a freelance photographer who has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. Her photographs have accompanied Troy Herrick’s articles in Live Life Travel, Offbeat Travel and Travel Thru History Magazines.