Fairhaven, Washington
by Chris Herbert
Daniel Jefferson Harris founded Fairhaven Washington with visions of the Great Northern Railway terminus dancing in his head. But while his dream of a town built around a railway that would service the coal and fishing industries never materialized we are thankful for his foresight. The historic town of Fairhaven Village sits on beautiful Bellingham Bay that is named for Sir William Bellingham who in 1792 traveled the west coast under he command of George Vancouver.
Founded in the 1880s by Dirty Dan Harris as he was known because of his somewhat less then scrupulous dealings, we only discovered this charming town a few years ago. Since then we have returned on numerous occasions. Fairhaven Village is an easy day trip from anywhere in Metro Vancouver by car or from Vancouver by train. If you are traveling from Victoria B.C. this historic town is a three-hour Washington State passenger ferry ride away.
It was the Canadian Thanksgiving weekend. After a feast of turkey with all the fixings and Mom’s homemade apple pie, we said goodbye to the family. It was early Sunday morning when we climbed out of bed and headed out from Abbotsford entering the U.S. at the Sumas border crossing.
“What is the purpose of your trip?” Asked the rather large and grim looking U.S. border guard as he glanced at our passports and back at us from behind his reflective Aviator style sunglasses. “A getaway trip to Fairhaven Village.” We replied. “A nice meal and a day at the spa.” We added. “Have a good time.” He said with a tip of his khaki Stetson. I’m fairly sure that I saw the beginning of a smile crosses his face. My guess is that he too had spent time in Fairhaven Village.
Wait times at the Canada/U.S. border can vary greatly but on this day we were through in less than ten minutes and on our way south along Meridian Way (Route 539). It is a rural drive and we pass recently harvested raspberry fields, jersey cows grazing in the fall sun and young colts galloping across the farmer’s fields.
After a quick stop in neighbouring Bellingham for some of our favorite Oregon cheese we make the short drive to historic Fairhaven arriving just before noon. Total travel time about one hour and fifteen minutes.
Often we go to Fairhaven for the day but on this occasion we decided to overnight at our favorite boutique hotel and spa. “Welcome back.” We step through the front door of our hotel and the front desk clerk greets us. A sense of calm washes over me. Something about this hotel makes me want to curl up on one of the oversized couches in front of the fireplace with a good book and veg out. We joke that they must be pumping something intoxicating through the venting.
We settle into our room over looking the bay and decide to take the ten-minute leisurely walk along South Bay Trail to the village. At least that is how long it should take, but Islay our Westie was having none of that stopping numerous times along the way to check out a new “sniff ”. Much smarter then her human companions when it comes to these things, our Terrier instinctively knows how to enjoy the day. So following our puppy’s lead we too stop to enjoy some of the beautiful gardens along the way. We aren’t alone as many walkers, their dogs as well as cyclists use the trail to travel between Fairhaven and Bellingham.
The fishing industry in this part of the west coast was at it’s peak in the early 1900s and remnants are visible all along Bellingham Bay. Reminders such as pylons that once supported a cannery jut out of the bay at low tide. The remains of a workshop its metal siding rusted by years of neglect and exposure to the weather sit precariously on the banks edge. It’s not difficult to imagine the sights, sounds and smells have long gone fishers off loading their catch where it would be readied for the market.
Islay is busy checking out a raccoon family hiding under the abandoned shed while we stop to read the inscription on the stone plaque that marks what was once the border between Fairhaven and Old Bellingham prior to the two towns merger in 1888.
Situated on a gently sloping hillside, the main streets are mostly level and are fairly easy to maneuver for walkers of any age and ability. And we do, walk that is. Whether it’s eating on an outside patio in front of a heritage building, visiting a book shop or the outdoor cinema at the Fairhaven Village Green everything we want to see and do is located in an eight square block area. When we feel the need for a break from our wandering a bench is never far away, or we stop at a sidewalk cafe or a gelato shop for a tasty treat.
Our first stop in town is a deli-bakery with an excellent menu. After a lunch of the soup of the day and a delicious turkey sandwich we are re-energized. I loosen my belt a notch (their servings can feed a small army) and we move on.
While Fairhaven has seen a bit of a building boom the old town flavour is evident everywhere. There are a few newer buildings but most brick or sandstone structures are from the late 1800‘s through the early 1900‘s. The Terminal building is the oldest still standing and since it was built in 1888 has housed everything from a grocery store to a saloon. Next door to it is a steak house that bears the name of the town’s founder.
Fairhaven celebrates its artisans and our list of favorite haunts include an artist gift shop and a woodworking co-operative and because the grand kids are never far from our thoughts a children’s toys hop. Whether we are buying or simply browsing the merchants always make us feel welcome and in fact special.
Fairhaven Village is an old town with a young feeling. I think that is in part because of the influence of the neighbouring Western Washington University, the local artists and some innovative restaurants.
To quickly the day has passed and it’s time to return to our hotel for our spa appointments and dinner reservations. “How was your treatment?” Asks our front desk clerk as we pass through the lobby dressed in our spa robes, no doubt looking very contented. I pause and on a whim ask her. “Is our room available for another night?” She smiles, no doubt having seen that contented look before. “No problem.“ She says. “It’s all been taken care of.”
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If You Go:
If you are driving from Metro Vancouver by car, you can cross the border at the Peace Arch crossing and take the I-5 but I recommend that you cross the Canada/U.S. border at the Pacific crossing and follow Route 539 (Meridian Way) or Sumas crossing taking Route 9 to 539 (Meridian Way). Either of these is a pleasant drive.
For directions and border crossing updates go to www.wsdot.wa.gov
The Amtrak rail service currently has two trains a day from Vancouver to Fairhaven Village (Bellingham) www.amtrak.com
The Washington State Ferry service runs a summer time passenger ferry from Victoria to Fairhaven. (Bellingham) www.washingtonferries.com
Accommodations in Fairhaven include The Fairhaven Village Inn www.fairhavenvillageinn.com and our favorite place The Chrysalis Inn and Spa www.thechrysalisinn.com
For general information, a good site to check out before you go is www.fairhaven.com
About the author:
Chris Herbert has been a closet writer for a long time. In recent years he has combined his writing passion with his travel adventures. You can read his articles in Postcards in the Vancouver Sun and an upcoming story in Seniors Living. Next on the travel agenda… Northern Spain.
All photos are by Chris Herbert.
I got to visit Smarty Jones (the 2004 Kentucky Derby and Preakness winner who’s currently residing in Pennsylvania). He came up to his stable door. How I wanted to pet him, but I was told that he has a tendency to bite, so I couldn’t. He was let out by one of the staff so I could pose with him, though for legal reasons involving the horses’ images, visitors can only show their photos offline to others.
The Kentucky Derby is the longest consecutive running sporting event in America. Since 1875, 136 of these annual horse races have been run at Churchill Downs through 2010. Seeing it on TV all these years didn’t prepare me for the draw it would have on me while visiting. I stayed there some four hours, and could’ve spent much more easily as I took three tours and visited the on site museum. It’s one of the few places in the world that I felt glued to because of the ambience, the tradition, and incredible history that makes up the 160 acre complex. I am not usually a fan of guided tours, but I found their guides to be quite engaging.
I was about to go into the museum when I heard a 90 minute Behind The Scenes Tour was about to happen. I felt led to take it, and I’m glad I did! Fans get to see such places as the clubhouse and locker room for the male jockeys, as well as find out about how these athletes must all be the same weight for the Kentucky Derby (126 pounds, but 121 if they ride a filly). It’s done by adding extra padding until the weight is reached. I also found out that jockeys wear several pairs of goggles around their eyes, so if one pair gets wet or soiled, they can de-layer for a clean one. We also got to go to the press area, Millionaires’ Row seating, and the track announcer’s booth. Believe me, this 90 minutes goes by too fast!
After a day of admiring racing horses, a great place to relax for a drink is the Old Seelbach Bar in downtown Louisville. The Seelbach Bar has many pictures of race horses hanging on its early 1900’s restored walls, including some Kentucky Derby winners. Did you know that F. Scott Fitzgerald sipped bourbon here? The hotel itself was a setting for his novel The Great Gatsby, a place where the fictional hometown girl Daisy Buchanan may have actually gotten drunk because of her forthcoming sham wedding to Tom Buchanan!
The Columbian Star is number one on the trail and is the most impressive place on the tour, the Rhea County Courthouse at 1475 Market Street. The Courthouse was built in 1891 and designated as a National Historic Landmark in 1977. Still operated as a courthouse, it also houses the Scopes Trial and Rhea Heritage Museums with exhibits, photos, and news clippings of the famous trial. Dayton won its place in history when William Jennings Bryan and Clarence Darrow argued the question of evolution and creation in the Scopes Evolution Trial which took place at the courthouse in July 1925. We’ve all heard about the trial and may have seen the movie, “Inherit the Wind,” that was made about it, therefore, it is interesting to tour the museum and think about that hot summer many years ago and the debate about the origin of man which continues even today.
The second star on the tour is at 1435 Market Street. It was the second location of Robinson Drugstore. Built in the early 1900’s, it is currently home to The Gathering Place, appropriately named, as Robinson’s being a favorite gathering place for local citizens in the 1920’s seems to have been key to the whole Scopes trial. The Gathering Place is now an antique and gift store.
The strawberry is far from Rhea County’s top crop, but the Dayton festival has preserved its heritage as the place for strawberries. Most of the berries for the event are furnished by Tidwell’s Berry Farm, the only large scale berry farm in the county. According to a Herald-News story, Ray Tidwell started his tiny farm near Spring City in 1983 growing corn and soybeans, but the farm flopped. An agriculture extension agent suggested he grow strawberries. At the time, there were only three acres of berries growing in the county. Doubting it would work, Tidwell gambled on the berries and it paid off. He now harvests 16 acres, each yielding about 20,000 pounds of strawberries. Tidwell doesn’t ship his berries across the country, but has turned his name into a popular regional brand. About 80 percent of his crop is sold from a shed at the farm on Hwy. 27, about 14 miles north of Dayton. If you can’t make it to the festival, you can still drive to Dayton during strawberry season to follow the town’s history with the Appalachian Quilt Block Stars and stop at Tidwell’s to buy fresh strawberries on your way home.
Before my flight and subsequent drive to Door County, I admittedly didn’t know much about the area. Upon arrival, I quickly learn that a dozen tiny, charming towns populate the county, that’s located just 45 miles northeast of Green Bay. The area received its name from the French, when it was dubbed Porte de Mortes (or “Door to Death”), because of the treacherous strait between the peninsula and the islands off its northern end, which today is the resting place of countless sunken ships. More recently acclaimed as the Cape Cod of the Midwest, in warmer months it’s a go-to destination for golfers the world over as there are 11 gorgeous courses to choose from. Door County also boasts multiple white sand beaches that line Lake Michigan for tourists to laze about on, while in the winter, ski hills, cross-country trails, hiking paths and ice-fishing huts make it the perfect getaway with nary a billboard or chain store in sight. And let’s not forget the cherries.
To be clear, the versions found in Door County orchards aren’t the run-of-the-mill variety. Here the Montmorency red tart cherry reigns supreme, and in Country Ovens, a family-owned and operated business established in 1987, they’re utilized in every form imaginable – from cherry salsa, cherry fudge and cherry BBQ sauce to cherry wine, cherry jam and cherry ketchup. The area prides itself on its cherry orchards, and has since the early 19th century. Ideal growing conditions make it the perfect environment for the fruit to sprout, and with approximately 2,200 acres of cherry orchard fields, approximately 12 million pounds of them are produced each year.
With my sweet tooth satisfied, I make my way to the Harbor Fish Market and Grille in Bailey’s Harbor for dinner. Known as a hot spot for in-the-know vacationers, I quickly see why the restaurant has such acclaim after I inhale my spectacular five-course meal. I then waddle back to the car and head to The White Lace Inn in Sturgeon Bay, my not-so-humble abode for the next two days. The bed-and-breakfast Main House is a beautifully restored 1880s Victorian home that’s gorgeous inside and out, which becomes all the more apparent when the owner, who took ownership of the property in 1982, shows me to my room in Hadley House – one of the four homes that comprise the inn. There, an enormous room, laden with perfectly-preserved antiques, two roaring fireplaces, heated floors and a whirlpool big enough to sleep in awaits. I happily settle in and call it a night.
No trip to Door County would be complete without taking in a fish boil, so I visit the White Gull Inn in Fish Creek – built in 1896 by a German-born doctor who established it and many surrounding buildings with the style of European health spas in mind – for an experience only available here. When I arrive, people are already gathered around the boiling spot where they’re waiting for the boil master to weave a yarn about the 100-year-old tradition of boiling white fish and potatoes over an open fire, which began when lumberjacks and fishermen adopted it as an economical way to feed themselves and their families. After roughly 15 minutes of the historical run-through, the boil master douses the fire with kerosene, causing the water and oil from the fish to boil over. After the spectators make way for him to head indoors with dinner, we pile into the restaurant for our own plateful of white fish, potatoes, coleslaw and – what else? – Door County cherry pie for dessert.
