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The Ultimate Guide to Hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

Panoramic view of Machu Picchu

Life had turned into a monotonous cycle when a sudden call to adventure led me to Peru. While there, I chose to answer this call by undertaking an unforgettable journey along the fabled pathway to a world-renowned archaeological wonder. I hope my story of hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu will inspire and equip you to make this remarkable journey yourself.

Preparing for the Expedition

As with any challenging journey, successful navigation of this trail demands physical fitness and mental preparation. In the months leading up to my departure, I incorporated daily cardio and strength training into my routine, with special emphasis on leg workouts. The grueling inclines and declines of the ancient path were much less daunting as a result.

Along with physical prep, I gathered essential gear: a lightweight backpack, comfortable hiking boots, water purification tablets, high-energy snacks, and of course, a quality camera to capture the astounding vistas.

Acclimatizing in Cusco: The Ancient Inca Capital

Before setting foot on the trail, we spent a couple of days in Cusco, acclimatizing to the high altitude. This city, once the capital of the Inca Empire, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a treasure trove of history. We wandered through the cobblestone streets, visiting museums and historic sites to immerse ourselves in the rich cultural history of the region. A standout was Qorikancha, once the richest temple of the Inca empire, its walls reportedly once covered in gold.

a person walking the cobblestone streets of Cusco
Acclimatizing in Cusco for a few days is a good idea

Navigating the Historic Path

The first day of the trek was relatively easy. The trail began in a small village named Ollantaytambo, leading through a patchwork of farm fields before starting a gentle climb to our first campsite. Our group was composed of fellow travelers from around the globe, each drawn to this remote corner of the world by the promise of the ruins nestled in the Andean peaks.

The terrain became more demanding as we moved along the ancient path. Stone steps carved centuries ago led us ever higher into the Andean mountains, each turn revealing panoramas that defied belief. On the second day, we reached Dead Woman’s Pass, the highest point on the trail at a lung-busting 4,215 meters.

Meeting History Face to Face

On the third day, I came face-to-face with remnants of the historic civilization. We wandered through fascinating ruins, such as Runkuraqay and Sayacmarca, each giving glimpses into the past lives of the civilization that once dominated these heights. As we moved from site to site, I was awed by the intelligence, ingenuity, and tenacity of the people who had called these mountains home.

Sunrise at the Sun Gate: The Reward at the End

The last day of hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu started before dawn, the anticipation palpable among us. As we neared Inti Punku, or the Sun Gate, the early morning mist began to lift, revealing the sun-drenched city ahead. It’s difficult to capture the feeling of seeing the site for the first time, with golden rays of dawn illuminating the terraced slopes and intricate stone structures. It was a truly magical sight, a reward that exceeded all the physical exertion of the preceding days.

A woman taking in the views of Machu Picchu
The rewards of hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu are beyond worth it

Guides and Porters: The Unsung Heroes

Another integral aspect of the journey is the hardworking and knowledgeable guides and porters. They are often locals who carry supplies, set up camps, and prepare meals. Their knowledge of the trail, flora, fauna, and history is unmatched. They breathe life into the journey by sharing stories and facts about the trail and ruins. Our guide’s explanation about the intelligent architectural design of the sites to withstand earthquakes left us awe-struck.

Cuisine on the Trail

Surprisingly, food was one of the highlights of the journey. Porters and chefs work wonders to prepare fresh, hearty meals, even in these remote locations. Each meal was not only delicious but also carefully designed to provide the necessary nutrients for the strenuous trek. They catered to different dietary needs and always had a hot cup of coca tea ready to help with the altitude.

Overcoming Physical Challenges

Despite the months of training, there were moments on the trail when the physical challenges felt daunting. The high altitude, mixed with steep climbs, required breaks and moments of introspection. During these pauses, I marveled at the raw, untouched beauty of the Andes, the play of clouds and sunlight on the peaks, the hum of the wind, and the whispering trees. This symphony of nature invigorated me and provided the strength to push through.

Flora and Fauna

While the trail is best known for its historic sites, it’s also a rich showcase of biodiversity. The trail offers fascinating glimpses of the local ecosystem, from orchids clinging to cloud forest trees to sightings of Andean bears, hummingbirds, and an array of colorful butterflies. There is something special about seeing a rare orchid bloom or a bird of vibrant plumage flit past, creating an intimate connection with nature.

The Intangible Rewards

Perhaps one of the most valuable aspects of this journey is the inner transformation it prompts. Each day was a cycle of effort, triumph, fatigue, and elation. Away from the usual routine, the trek allowed me to introspect, push my limits, and discover a new appreciation for nature and history. The bond created with fellow travelers and the shared experience of facing and overcoming challenges created memories to last a lifetime.

Post-Trek Reflections

Post-trek, we spent a few more days in Cusco, exploring its vibrant markets and savoring its unique cuisine. This gave us time to process our adventure and reflect on the impact the hike to Machu Picchu had on us. The journey’s end wasn’t just about reaching the city of terraced slopes but also about personal growth, resilience, and a deeper understanding of history.

a person walking across a bridge hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu
Use the end of your trip to relax and enjoy the surroundings

Concluding Thoughts: Embrace the Challenge

The trek offered much more than just a visit to an archaeological marvel. It was a deep dive into history, a test of personal resilience, and a powerful bond formed with nature.

As I stood among the stone structures of the lost city, it felt like time had paused. The city’s resilience, standing strong against centuries of natural elements, mirrored my own journey along the trail, a testament to the strength of human will and persistence.

So if you’ve got an adventurous spirit, a thirst for historical understanding, and a penchant for breathtaking landscapes, this journey might just be for you. Lace up your hiking boots, pack your determination and curiosity, and embark on this magnificent adventure. The journey along the ancient path to the sun-kissed city awaits you. Start your journey of hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu.

If You Go: Essential Tips for Future Trailblazers

Looking back, my journey was an amalgamation of preparation, anticipation, camaraderie, and raw natural beauty. Here are a few tips from my experience:

  • Acclimatize: Spend a couple of days in Cusco before the journey to acclimatize to the high altitude.
  • Stay Hydrated: Always keep your water bottle handy. The trail can be strenuous, and dehydration makes it more difficult.
  • Respect the Trail: Remember, it’s not only a trekking path but also a precious heritage site. Do not litter or cause any damage.

 

About the author:
Alexandra Stone is a world traveler, adventure enthusiast, and history buff who has left her footprints in over 60 countries. With a flair for storytelling, she specializes in illuminating lesser-known aspects of global destinations and sharing insider tips from her experiences. When not exploring a new trail or diving into historical narratives, Alexandra can be found collaborating with Allstate Moving and Storage Baltimore and documenting her journeys on her widely-read blog, “Roaming with Stone.”

 

Tagged With: Inca trail, Machu Picchu Filed Under: South America Travel

Caral, America’s Oldest City – part 2

Great Pyramid and Supe Valley
Great Pyramid and Supe Valley

 by: Georges Fery

This is the 2nd part of a two-part article. Read part one here.

The Complex of the Amphitheater and its monumental circular sunken court is dated 2160BC. It is an important structure in the lower part (hurin) of the city, the counterpart to the Great Pyramid (hanan), but is not as commanding as the later. The walled complex is made of various components: a deck with a series of aligned cubicles; a large circular sunken plaza and a building with platforms that ascend sequentially. “On the east side of its perimeter is a circular altar and an elite dwelling. In the building were found several ceremonial hearths or Altars of the Sacred Fire, with their ventilation shafts built underneath.  Buried in the circular sunken plaza of the Amphitheater were found 32 flutes finely carved from condor and pelican bones, as well as 37 bugles made of deer and llama bones, which point to the building’s ceremonial importance. They were “decorated with incised designs and painted with figures of local fauna and humans” (Shady, 1999b).

The main Altar of the Sacred Fire was found in an isolated area within the wall encircling the Amphitheatre complex. The religious ceremonies that took place there, as for most ancient agrarian societies, revolved around the powers of the sun, the moon, water, earth, celestial bodies, and their respective deities. This religious structure stems from the Kotosh religious tradition of the Late Archaic (4200BC) in the upper Andes, which influenced Caral religion through most of the millennium between 3000 and 2000 BC.

Altar of Sacred Fire

The priests were believed to draw their spiritual power from predicting cyclical natural events, such as the cycles of the sun the moon, and other heavenly bodies. For that reason, they were acknowledged as the anointed intercessors between people and the deities of nature. However, the priests lacked the scientific knowledge associated with their observations that would be acquired much later in time, so they merely acknowledged the repetition of those events that indeed appeared at predicated times. But what the priests could not predict were nature’s variables such as the intensities of the above-mentioned disrupters. At Caral as in most societies of the past, there was no separation between secular and creed for, as Shady notes, “religion was the nexus of cohesion and the ideology of the state acted as the instrument of domination of its government. Most of the activities carried out at Caral were, in some form or another, related to religious rituals and sacrifices” (1999a). The most important religious ceremonies may have taken place around the Altars of the Sacred Fire in the Great Pyramid, as well as in that of the Amphitheater.  Less important ceremonies took place in other buildings. The shrine for the Sacred Fire is often made of a small circular platform with a fire pit in which small offerings were burned, such as those found at Kotosh.

The circular platform of the Sacred Fire was enclosed in a low quadrangular six-foot-high wall open space with access for only one person, most probably the high priest. A ventilation duct was built underneath the hearth that led the heat and smoke outside. In the shrine, the high priest called on natural forces and their deities to ascertain the timely arrival of natural events such as rains, winds, or other phenomena, and their consequences on crops. Planting and harvesting were daily concerns for most societies of the past associated, as they were, with the weather, rain specifically.

Delayed rains, or their diminished downpour, could translate into a bad or no crop at all, and the consequences: famine, the return of fear, and death. So the priests had to assure the city’s elite that the gods indeed helped in understanding nature’s hidden behavior.

Amphitheater Sunken Court
Amphitheater Sunken Court

Two other prominent architectural features at Caral are the large sunken circular courts built at the foot of the monumental staircases of the Great Pyramid and the Pyramid of the Amphitheater. They were used, as were the Maya rectilinear ball courts, for multi-function events at dedicated times. Religious ceremonies were likely prominent to celebrate major events such as spring and autumn equinoxes, the Austral solstices and the rising and setting of stars and planets mythologically associated with gods, deities, and seasonal celebrations, such as planting and harvesting. The discovery of finely carved flutes and bugles beneath the Pyramid of the Amphitheater’s sunken court, point tos the importance of musical instruments used during ceremonies and pageants. Remains of drums have not been found, so far, for their material may not have survived the test of time. Drums or percussion instruments, however, are recorded far back in time as the oldest device used by most cultures. Secular games may have taken place in the arena-like courts to celebrate social and sport events, an answer to ingrained human needs to compete in a controlled environment.

Through history, the universal use of games for secular or ritual purposes, underscore a commitment to maintain peace and balance between communal factions. Essential to ritual games, and to a certain extent secular games as well, was the need to keep in check latent antagonism within the same polity, as well as between polities.

Condor and Pelican Bone Flutes
Condor and Pelican Bone Flutes

In several buildings, archaeologists found human burials, mainly of children or young adults that are generally associated with specific rituals. As Shady points out, “the discovery of the body of a young man, deposited among stones that were used in an atrium in preparation for the construction of a new one, demonstrate this concept. The body was found above a layer of soil and stones, covered with other stones and the floor of the new atrium. It was nude and had no offerings except for the careful arrangement of the hair. Forensic analysis by Dr. Guido Lombardi indicates that it was a male of about twenty years of age, who was subjected to hard labor for most of his short life. He had received two forceful blows, one to the face and the other to the head (which was the cause of death); some of his fingers were placed in one of the niches of the temple” (2002). The remains of children were found underneath the floor of dwellings. This burial practice, as found in later cultures, was related to the belief that such offerings would contribute to the long life of the building.

Also found in residences were Quipus, the knotted strings made of camelid fibers such as llama or alpaca wool. Quipus were used, from the Late Archaic or probably earlier, as recording and communication devices arranged on a base ten positional system. The ones identified at Caral are among the oldest found in Peru. Furthermore, small low fired ceramic figurines – on average: five high by two inches wide – were found in secular and religious contexts. Their similarity with those of the San Pedro’s phase of the Valdivia culture of Ecuador (2700 BC), is striking.

The small Caral figurines are low fired with red and gray colors applied. The arms of the figurines, like those at Valdivia, are usually short and bent toward the chest or placed under the chin. In the Americas, diffusion of ceramics took place over a long span of time and across extensive geographical areas through trade, and some found their replicas at Caral.

Caral Ceramic Figurines
Caral Ceramic Figurines

The floor plans of residential houses vary according to their proximity to a pyramid complex, a direct reflection of the status of their residents. Their architecture is similar in both upper and lower Caral and, as for collective structures, are built of rocks set with mud. The largest household complex in Caral is found in Sector.A, in the upper half of the city (hanan). The quadrangular houses are built with a main entrance at the front and a door at the back, the later perhaps used for the kitchen or other services. Their sizes vary from 530 to 860 square feet, and they had interconnected rooms, also an indication of the status of a household. In several rooms small platforms and benches (beds?) were found. The walls and floors were covered with white, beige, or light-grey colored plasters, while those with red and yellow paints may indicate that they were the homes of the Caral elite” (Shady, 1997).

The central point still argued today about the diffusion of Peruvian cultures is whether it initiate from the coast, with its bountiful marine resources, or from the Andes Mountains to the Pacific Coast. In the view of archeologists Jonathan Haas and Winifred Creamer, “a complex society arose in Peru, thanks to irrigation agriculture, the same way it did in the world’s five other “pristine” civilizations, Mesopotamia, ca. 3500 BC, Egypt, ca. 3000 BC, India, ca. 2600 BC, China, 1900 BC and Mexico, ca.1200 BC (2005). Historian Karl Wittfogel points out that “irrigation was the catalyst that transformed tribal societies into city-states; for it required forced labor, central planning, a managerial elite, and provided the excess food necessary to support workers and administrators.” (1957). At Caral, the state government was sustained by dynamic diversified crops and a fishing economy. “Its sphere of domination and control included the populations of the Supe, Pativilca and Fortaleza valleys.

However, its connections and prestige extended across the entire north-central Peruvian region” (Shady, 2005). Social groups shared water through five ecological zones. The rivers begin in the high Andean Altiplano and flow through the mountain’s piedmont and, ultimately, to the coastal plains and the Pacific Ocean, a topography that was at the core of Caral’s survival for over a thousand years.

Pyramids and Residensidential Complexes
Pyramids and Residensidential Complexes

Haas and Creamer raise a pertinent point about “how ancient South Americans made the leap from subsistence fishing to urban sophistication.” Their main argument: “If the exploitation of marine resources is the reason for cultural complexity, why don’t you get a string of these big, complex societies up and down the Pacific coast? You don’t.” Haas maintains that the Late Preceramic sites of Aspero and Banduria, “grew as complex as they did because they could trade with inland settlements that had been revolutionized by irrigation agriculture.”

It takes a complex society to undertake big public construction projects, and the consensus is that complexity sprang from mastering agriculture. Hunter-gatherers had neither the means nor the need to create social hierarchies. That process (which entailed the division of labor and the emergence of a managerial caste), got under way only after humans settled down to farm” (2005). However, Aspero at the mouth of the Supe River, may still reveal surprises since recent radiocarbon dating showed that the village, with its two large platforms and circular sunken courts, had flourished as early as 3033BC.

Caral and its neighboring communities in the Pativilca and Fortaleza valleys were abandoned between 1800 and 1600BC. Why? We are not sure, but archaeological and geological data point to the relentless onslaught of disrupters and their cumulative effects, which priests could not foresee. Geological data uncovered that an earthquake estimated at 7.2 on the Richter scale took place in about 1820BC and destroyed much of Caral and Aspero (Sandweiss et all., 2009). This major earthquake was most probably followed by successive tremors of various intensity over the following weeks and months and contributed to more unstable rock and mud slides into the valleys.

The damages may have been worsened by an El Niño event that came concurrently or followed closely the earthquake and its aftershocks. Remains of torrential rains and consecutive gravel and dirt slides from the surrounding hills found by geologists are testimonies to the destruction of agriculture, that clogged rivers and wells in the valleys. The mouth of the Supe River was heavily choked by sediments that, together with storms, gale force winds and ocean current shifts over months, built up a sand belt along the coast that, is to this is day, is referred to as the “Middle World.”

Banduria, the Middle World
Banduria, the Middle World

This situation exacerbated an already unstable food supply, for the shift in ocean temperatures with La Niña pushed schools of fish farther and deeper offshore. Worsening an already catastrophic situation were climate shifts and sands blown inland from the coast to agricultural fields in the valleys, further destroyed cultures and obstructed canals already damaged by rock and mud slides.

Furthermore, Caral’s neighbors on its north and south were likewise severely impacted by these disastrous events. Food shortage worsened to such an extent that, together with the loss of cotton, produce and fishing, the economy collapsed. The pleas and tears of Caral’s priests could not prevent nor help in such a tragic situation, and Caralinos had no alternative but to flee and seek refuge in less afflicted communities.

The powers of nature were harsh on Caral and, so it seems, were its gods and deities. Garcia-Acosta points out that disasters are “triggers and revealers that have been important catalysts of change for much of human history.” As people begin to rebuild their lives in the wake of calamity, “one of their pressing concerns is for closure, for people need to understand why things happened in order to seek ways to make sure it does not happen again” (2002). Under severe conditions, new religious ideas and new leaders often emerge that take cultures in new directions.

 

Further Reading:
Ruth Shady Solis, 2001 – The Oldest City in the New World
Jennings, J., 2008 – Catastrophe, Revitalization and Religious Change on the Prehispanic North Coast of Peru
Ruth Shady and Carlos Leyva, 2003 – La Ciudad Sagrado de Caral-Supe
Roxana Hernandez Garcia, 2015 – Caral: 5000 Años de Identidad
Jesús Sánchez Jaén, 2008 – Caral, la Cultura de las Plazas Circulares
Ruth Shady Solis, J. Haas, and W. Creamer, 2001 – Dating Caral, a Preceramic in the Supe Valley on the Central Coast of Peru (Science, 292).
Haas and M. Piscitelli, 2004 – The Rise of Andean Pre-Inca Civilizations
Ruth Shady Solis, 2006 – La Civilización Caral: Sistema Social y Manejo del Territorio y sus Recursos; sus Transcendancia en el Proceso Cultural
Eva Jobbova, Ch. Elmke & A. Bevan, 2018 – Ritual Responses to Drought: An Examination of Ritual Expressions
Arthur D. Faram, 2010 – A Geographic Study of the Ancient Caral, Peru

About the author:
Freelance writer, researcher and photographer, Georges Fery (georgefery.com) addresses topics, from history, culture, and beliefs to daily living of ancient and today’s communities of Mesoamerica and South America. His articles are published online at travelthruhistory.com, ancient-origins.net and popular-archaeology.com, in the quarterly magazine Ancient American (ancientamerican.com), as well as in the U.K. at mexicolore.co.uk. The author is a fellow of the Institute of Maya Studies instituteofmayastudies.org Miami, FL and The Royal Geographical Society, London, U.K. rgs.org. As well as member in good standing of the Maya Exploration Center, Austin, TX mayaexploration.org, the Archaeological Institute of America, Boston, MA archaeological.org, the National Museum of the American Indian, Washington, DC. americanindian.si.edu, and the NFAA – Non-Fiction Authors Association nonfictionauthrosassociation.com.
Contact: Georges Fery – 5200 Keller Springs Road, Apt. 1511, Dallas, Texas 75248, (786) 501 9692 –gfery.43@gmail.com and www.georgefery.com

Photo Credits:

7 – The Great Pyramid and the Supe Valley courtesy of cordilleraviajes.com
8 – El Altar del Fuego Sagrado: Se.Xauxa, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
9 – Amphitheatre and sunken court courtesy of qosqoexpeditions.com
10 – Condor and Pelican Bone Flutes  courtesy of noticiasdelaciencia.org
11 – Caral, Ceramic Figurines  courtesy of enperublog.com
12 – Pyramids and Residences  courtesy of incatrail.com
13 – Banduria, the Middle World  © georgefery.com

Tagged With: Peru travel Filed Under: South America Travel

Caral, America’s Oldest City

great pyramid at Caral
The Great Pyramid

by Georges Fery

The cluster of valleys on the banks of the Supe River in the north-central coast of Peru, known as the Norte Chico, stands out among other ancient human settlements in the country for the antiquity, number, size, and complexity of its monumental architecture, witnesses to an extraordinary past. Its early urban centers are Banduria (4000-2000BC), Aspero (3700-2500BC), and Caral, also referred to as Caral-Supe (3500-2000BC), which far surpassed the other two in power and influence and has been called “the oldest city in the Americas, and one of the earliest cities in the world” (Mann, 2005). However, unlike cultures in other parts of the world, the Peruvian urbanization took place in total isolation. The rise of civilization in Peru preceded the Olmec civilization, believed to be the oldest in Mesoamerica, by at least 1500 years (Shady, 1994).

Hunting and gathering for subsistence, in what is now Peru’s Norte Chico, is documented as early as 9500-8000BC. Small groups started plant selection and gardening, and the remains of irrigation channels have been dated to that period. New concerns with the cosmos and religion led to the unification of nascent social groups around spiritual concepts. In turn, this collective perception brought social stratification, followed by an economic cooperation that swept the Andes and Northern Peru’s coastal communities (Shady, 1997). Agriculture expanded, and by 3200 BC, harvested cotton was an already important trade crop, used to make nets for fishing, and later net-bags (shicras) employed in construction. Domestication of camelids such as llamas also grew around this time.

Rise and Fall of Ancient Civilizations in Peru

So, let’s follow the field notes of renowned Peruvian archaeologist Ruth Shady Solis and others, to look at how ancient civilizations in this region rose and fell. The fertile Supe River and its affluents wind their way to the coast from the western piedmont of the Andes to the dry coastal plains. Its lush valley is host to twenty-one ancient settlements that share a common architecture and urban distribution dating from the Late Archaic period (3500BC). On the Pacific Coast, at the mouth of the Supe River, is the Late Archaic site of Aspero (3700-2500 BC). This coastal town seems to be the origin of human settlement in this part of the Norte Chico. As demographic pressure increased at Aspero together with social complexity, communities split into groups that moved up the Supe River valley and set up villages upstream. Aspero’s location, however, gave the town a key role in the initial economic development of the region, providing access to the abundant schools of fish that rode the cold northbound Humboldt current, as well as control of the sea salt trade with growing inland communities.

Caral and other close communities were built fourteen miles up the coast in the 60-mile-long Supe River valley, on the arid plateau extending on both banks of a ravine and the fertile but narrow valley where crops were planted. The settlements on the plateau on each of the upper sides of the ravine were thus protected from seasonal floods. In the 3500-3200 BC time frame, Caral (165 acres) grew from a village to a city together with Era de Pando (200 acres) and Pueblo Nuevo (135 acres), while neighboring hamlets such as Cerro Colorado, Liman, or Cerro Blanco did not exceed two or three acres.

Caral Confirmed as Oldest City in the Americas

By 3000-2900 BC, Caral was the seat of regional power, with Curacas – or heads of lineages – in control of political, socio-economic, and religious affairs. The foremost Curaca was the principal of a network of districts that spread up from the Pacific coast to the foothills of the Andes, an organization that was based on trade and reciprocity (Shady, Dolorier, Casas, 2000). What kept the network together was religion, used as a means of cohesion and coercion, as well as a symbol of mutual cultural and spiritual identity (Shady, 2004). Today, Caral’s monumental pyramidal stepped structures associated with sunken circular plazas, emphasized its importance as a secular and religious power center. Its seven massive temple-pyramids dot the landscape together with remains of residential complexes large and small. Its antiquity as the oldest in the Americas has been confirmed by 29 radiocarbon dates (Shady, 1993, 2000).

Caral, Site Map
Site Map of Caral

While Caral stands as a significant and renowned archaeological site in Peru, accessing it via public transportation is currently not feasible. However, you can embark on a memorable day trip from Lima to Caral.  Join Travel Adventures Peru for a convenient excursion led by knowledgeable local guides.

Caral and its neighboring communities on both sides of the Supe River, may have housed over 20,000 people. Shady stresses, in agreement with Feldman (1980) and Grieder et al. (1988), that “field research indicates that the Caral-Supe society was organized into socially stratified ranks with local authorities connected to a state government, sustained by a productive and diversified crop production and fishing economy.” Farmers cultivated fields irrigated by means of a simple system of canals guiding water from the Supe River and its affluents, as well as from numerous springs.

The socio-economic dynamics were driving internal and external exchanges that allowed for the development of complex technological and social organization. “Caral’s direct control and economic dominance included populations of the Supe, Pativilca and Fortaleza valleys. Its interaction and prestige extended across the entire north-central Peru region from the Andes foothills to the coast. Furthermore, Shady stresses that evidence shows that “Caral was the model of a socio-political organization that other societies achieved only in later times throughout Peru” (2002).

The impressive achievements of Caral’s inhabitants (called Caralinos by archeologists), from architecture to religion is owed to their dynamism, creativity, and interactions with social groups in the upper reaches of the Andes. Caral’s history and culture was closely associated with its ceremonial calendar which was set in harmony with nature and the seasons. However, they were also influenced by two major natural disrupters that are historically associated with the demise of cultures in northern Peru. These disrupters were, still are, inextricably linked to the ebb and flow of Norte Chico cultures. The first of the disrupters are the combined climate episodes triggered by El Niño and La Niña, which affect global weather patterns. In a few words, El Niño is associated with a band of nutrients-poor warm water and atmospheric convection that develops in the east-central equatorial Pacific and spreads to South America’s east coast. ENSO-El Niño Southern Oscillation refers to the cycle of warm and cold Sea Surface Temperature (SST) of the tropical central and eastern Pacific Ocean, with high air pressure in the western Pacific and low air pressure in the eastern Pacific.

El Niño’s moisture-laden clouds produce intense rains, floods, and landslides, devastating cultures and may be, but is not always, followed a year or so later by La Niña, El Niño colder counterpart. During La Niña episodes, strong winds blow warm water on the ocean’s surface away from South America across the Pacific Ocean. SST in the eastern Pacific is, at that time, below average. Cold water from the ocean then rises to the surface near South America’s coast. La Niña is associated with droughts that may last months over the South American continent. These complex occurrences vary in intensity and may recur in cycles of seven or fourteen years.

Tectonic plates of Peru diagram
Tectonic plates of Peru

The second set of disrupters are the earthquakes triggered by the collision of the massive South American tectonic plate and the far heavier Nazca plate as it moves eastward from the Pacific and slides beneath the South American plate. The friction between the plates, in the subduction zone along the Peru-Chile trench, are the main cause of earthquakes and volcanic activity in the region.

To mitigate the disruptive effects of earthquakes, Caralinos found an ingenious way to give their constructions a certain “flexibility” during seismic events. Their answer was the shicra, a net made of cotton mixed with vegetal fibers that was packed with loose rocks. Shicras that held over a thousand pounds of rocks were found in the foundations of structures. Smaller shicras were used to carry stone loads of fifteen to twenty pounds from quarries to building sites, where they were placed in the retaining walls to allow structures to absorb a certain number of disturbances from quakes without damaging the walls.

shicra nets
Shicra nets

Together with the shicras, quinchas-lintels or beams made of the huarango, a hard wood of a mesquite tree species such as the “algarrobo blanco” (Prosopis alba), were used to shore up doors and passageways in buildings, along with massive stone pillars as central support. All structures large and small, were built of shaped stone blocs set with mud.

Seven Large Pyramids

Caral’s thirty-two monumental structures, and its residential complexes large and small, underscore the ancient city’s importance. In the upper half of the city are seven large pyramidal structures, two of them, the Great Pyramid, and the Pyramid of the Amphitheater, are associated with large sunken circular courts. Major structures encircle multifunction open spaces or plazas.  There are two subgroups: the one to the west includes the Great Pyramid, the Central Pyramid, the Quarry Pyramid, and the Lesser Pyramid. The subgroup to the east includes the Pyramid of the Amphitheater, the Pyramid of the Gallery, and the Pyramid of the Huanca (a huanca is a tall upright monolith, usually an uncarved stone). The eight-foot-tall huanca is found three hundred feet away from the plaza and the two pyramids, at the end of a causeway.

Archaeologist Shady notes that at Caral “the structures in the nuclear space are grouped into two great halves: an upper half, nearest the water where the most impressive pyramidal structures are located, and a lower half with smaller public buildings, but for one large complex that also has a circular sunken court attached to it” (2002).

This spatial organization likely expresses the Andean binary division into hanan and hurin (upper and lower, respectively). Pyramidal structures vary in size and exhibit distinct elements, but all share a model for the façade, which are comparable in style and design. Shady remarks that “all buildings follow a similar model with superimposed terraces placed at intervals and contained by stone walls. Each façade has fixed stellar direction and an axis that internally divides the space. This axis is usually marked by a staircase traversing the center of the terraces from the base to the summit. The flight of stairs also divides the building into a central body with two left and right extensions, each with rooms and passageways. The central body of each structure consists of segments set apart by their sequential location at specific elevations” (2001).

Caral circular court complex
Circular court complex

An exhaustive description of this 5000–year-old city would require far more space than is available here. So, together with archaeologists Shady, Machacuay and Aramburu, we will focus on three major structures: the Great Pyramid (Sector.E), the Pyramid of the Galeria (Sector.I), and the Temple of the Amphitheater (Sector.L). The Great Pyramid is the largest and most extensive and important complex in the upper half (hanan) of the city. It measures 561 feet from east to west and 495 feet from north to south. Its south facing façade is 65-five feet in height while its north side, facing the valley, reaches to slightly less than 100 feet. Its main feature is an important circular sunken court and an imposing stepped pyramidal structure made of a central body and two side components.

An important feature in the structure is that of the Altar of the Sacred Fire, which is located at the top of the pyramid, in a small quarter with a ventilation shaft running below it. The diameter of the circular sunken court, attached to the north side of the pyramid, is 120-feet, and its sunken interior is 72-feet across. An entrance stairway leads up from the exterior and up the south side of the court, in line with the axial staircase of the pyramid. On the north-south axis, two other staircases descend to the court, each framed by two large upright monoliths. The internal wall of the court is made of stone blocks reset one-and-a-half feet to an elevation of five feet giving it a stepped appearance. The walls, stairs and floors of the plaza were plastered and painted. Given its size, location, and association with the circular court, this was probably the city’s main public building” (2000).

Pyramid la Galeria and the Huanca    
Pyramid la Galeria and the Huanca

The Pyramid la Galeria owes its name to the monolith located about three hundred feet from the pyramid’s main stairway. This pyramid is of a quadrangular plan, located in the east subgroup, at the extreme southeast of the upper half of the city (hanan). The façade is oriented toward the urban space shared with the Pyramid of the Gallery (Sector.H). The eight-foot-high monolith or huanca, seems to have been the axis common to the two buildings. The Pyramid of the Huanca has the typical stepped profile, consisting of five superimposed terraces and four sides. It measures 177 feet on its east-west axis, 171 feet from north to south and reaches 42 feet in height. Its eighteen18-foot-wide central stairway leads at the summit to an atrium, assumed to be an observatory. Notable among the finds in the building, is a headdress made of grassy fiber.

 

This is Part One of a two-part article about Caral.
Read Part Two Here.

 

Further Reading:
Ruth Shady Solis, 2001 – The Oldest City in the New World
Jennings, J., 2008 – Catastrophe, Revitalization and Religious Change on the Prehispanic North Coast of Peru
Ruth Shady and Carlos Leyva, 2003 – La Ciudad Sagrado de Caral-Supe
Roxana Hernandez Garcia, 2015 – Caral: 5000 Años de Identidad
Jesús Sánchez Jaén, 2008 – Caral, la Cultura de las Plazas Circulares
Ruth Shady Solis, J. Haas, and W. Creamer, 2001 – Dating Caral, a Preceramic in the Supe Valley on the Central Coast of Peru (Science, 292).
Haas and M. Piscitelli, 2004 – The Rise of Andean Pre-Inca Civilizations
Ruth Shady Solis, 2006 – La Civilización Caral: Sistema Social y Manejo del Territorio y sus Recursos; sus Transcendancia en el Proceso Cultural
Eva Jobbova, Ch. Elmke & A. Bevan, 2018 – Ritual Responses to Drought: An Examination of Ritual Expressions
Arthur D. Faram, 2010 – A Geographic Study of the Ancient Caral, Peru

About the author:
Freelance writer, researcher and photographer, Georges Fery (georgefery.com) addresses topics, from history, culture, and beliefs to daily living of ancient and today’s communities of Mesoamerica and South America. His articles are published online at travelthruhistory.com, ancient-origins.net and popular-archaeology.com, in the quarterly magazine Ancient American (ancientamerican.com), as well as in the U.K. at mexicolore.co.uk. The author is a fellow of the Institute of Maya Studies instituteofmayastudies.org Miami, FL and The Royal Geographical Society, London, U.K. rgs.org. As well as member in good standing of the Maya Exploration Center, Austin, TX mayaexploration.org, the Archaeological Institute of America, Boston, MA archaeological.org, the National Museum of the American Indian, Washington, DC. americanindian.si.edu, and the NFAA – Non-Fiction Authors Association nonfictionauthrosassociation.com.
Contact: Georges Fery – 5200 Keller Springs Road, Apt. 1511, Dallas, Texas 75248, (786) 501 9692 –gfery.43@gmail.com and www.georgefery.com

Photo Credits:
1 – The Great Pyramid courtesy of peruinfo.com
2 – Caral, Site Map courtesy of mdpi.com
3 – Peru Tectonic Plates: Map: USGSDescription:Scott Nash, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
4 – Shicra Nets: I, Xauxa, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
5 – Complex of the Circular Court © georgefery.com
6 – Pyramid la Galeria and the Huanca © georgefery.com

 

Tagged With: Caral, Peru, pyramids Filed Under: South America Travel

Priestess of Chornancap Part 2

The Priestess’ Mortuary Mask   
The Priestess’ Mortuary Mask

This is the 2nd part of a two-part article. Read part one here.

On the bundle was a necklace made of twenty-one copper discs. The mask and crown gave the appearance of life “as if the deceased was looking at its own second burial ceremony” (Narvaez, 2011). Upon removal of the first mask and crown and opening of the bundle, a second crown appeared, set on the actual skull. Made of a thin sheet of fine gold, it showed the exquisitely stylized scene of a woman seated in profile and resting in the crescent of the Moon. This depiction places the woman in the crescent at the heart of the feminine association with the complex world of the Lambayeque culture and its deity, the Moon. Above all, however, it is the figure of a powerful deified ancestor. Osteological analysis confirmed that the remains were that of a woman 45 to 55 years of age. Her unnatural cranium deformation established that she was a member of the nobility, for body modification underscored a person’s high status. Skeletal analysis established that she lived during the second half of the 13th century, the last period of the Lambayeque culture, before the Chimú conquest.

The priestess “sat” facing east toward the rising of the Moon and the renewal of life, for another day. As Narvaez notes, “she personalized absolute control over the realm of the Moon and its association with the sea from where Ñaimlap came, which underlined her divine status during her lifetime immortalized as a deity beyond life” (2011). Foremost, as Shimada points out, “the funerary rites and rituals performed by living family members served to further reinforce their lineage identity and assert the three-way relationship between the divine, the dead, and the living elite” (2004).

In the funerary bundle and grave, archaeologists recovered over three hundred bracelets, earrings, and other objects made of gold, silver, and burnished copper-gold alloys, in which predominate the image of Ñaymlap, the eponymous founder of the Lambayeque culture. Three important pectorals adorned the remains, one showed the anthropomorphic wave of the ocean, and another displayed the hallucinogenic San Pedro cactus (Echinopsis pachanoi), used in shamanic vision ceremonies. Fine Cajamarca style ceramics, many necklaces made of amber, precious and semi-precious stones, as well as thousands of small beads made of imported seashells such as conus (conidia) and spondylus (spondylea) from Ecuador’s south coast, and sacrificial copper knives (tumi) were also found in the bundle. The body of the priestess was covered with two mantles, one of which had small lunar-shaped copper discs stitched on the fabric, designed as the mythic wave associated with the ocean.

The Priestess’ Grave and her Companions
The Priestess’ Grave and her Companions

Several bi-metallic gold and silver implements were found, a duality symbolically associated with the Sun as gold and the Moon as silver. Upon removal of the last mantle archaeologists found an article of remarkable artistic quality made of fine laminated gold; it was placed in the priestess left hand, underlining her high status. It is a ceremonial or command scepter, nine inches long, on top of which is a feminine deity found in classic mythological position, together with the ocean wave. The scepter underlines the priestess’ extraordinary political and religious authority.

Bi-metals Implements and A Scepter
Bi-metals Implements and A Scepter

Also buried with the priestess, were eight sacrificed young women, all adorned with small, burnished copper jewelry and carved bone figurines. The body of a twelve-to-fifteen-year-old girl was found near the priestess’ head together with that of a young camelid (llama).

The other seven were between fifteen and twenty years of age. Three were found to the north, one to the east and two to the south, together with the decapitated head of another human, apparently brought from another grave. The gender of the head could not be ascertained for lack of missing skeletal bones but was, in all probability, that of a female. Of note is that in the mouth of woman number five were found thirteen little gold nuggets and a small round silver ingot, probably underlining her rank and special status in the priestess’ retinue. The young women all “sat” in a circle with the fifth facing the priestess. They were sacrificed to serve her in the afterlife.

Another potent symbol shown on the artifacts in the grave is the anthropomorphic ocean wave, which refers to the actual and mythological importance and power of the ocean from where Ñaylamp, the culture’s founder came. This symbol underlines the bounty of life associated with the moon and its powerful influence over the tides. As in all binary beliefs rooted in the field of opposites, it also underscores the ocean’s catastrophic recuring threats, such as those we know as El Niño today. As Shimada points out, “sometimes around 1100AD, the Sicán deity nearly vanished from the iconography of northern Peru. A ubiquitous symbol for nearly 200 years, the deity did not survive a spasm of environmentally and culturally induced disasters that toppled the Middle Sicán polity” (2000).

The artifacts found in the grave and the priestess’ adornments show that she was the all-powerful leader of a large and diverse community spread over a vast territory. Her all-encompassing powers, signaled by the contents of her grave, help us understand the complex structure of the Lambayeque societies that, until recently, were believed to have only been led by men. The priestess was at the apex of a complex political and religious hierarchy encompassing local, regional, and macro-regional levels beyond Chornancap to Cajamarca, La Libertad, and further north, to today’s Ecuador. The women of these cultures were not only highly respected near and far during their lifetime but were also believed to become divine ancestors that secured future harmony and continuity for their people. As Shimada points out, “funerary rites and rituals performed by the living direct descendants helped to further reinforce their lineage, their identity and the three-way relationship between the divine, the dead, and the living elite” (2004). Of note is that the bundle and its content were understood to stand at the border between the mythic and the real history of a person, a family, or a community. The hypothetical face of the Priestess of Chornancap shown here, was created thanks to the expertise of the American forensic anthropologist Dr. Daniel J. Fairbanks in 2012. He used as a model photo made in the late 1800s by Hans Henrich Brüning of women of the Muchik ethnic group living in the Lambayeque valleys.

The Priestess of Chornancap    
The Priestess of Chornancap

Upon reaching the bottom of the priestess’ grave, the archeologists dug about five feet further down to ascertain that there was nothing left below through eventual water seepage. To their surprise, they found another buried body, that of an adult male, thirty to forty years of age, lying flat on his back on an east-west alignment. He was not wrapped into a bundle, nor were the remains of a coffin found. This burial sequence is unknown elsewhere in Andean America. In the grave were found large and small globular ceramics and metal offerings, as well as copper knives (tumi). However, the most striking find were two groups of ten shells of spondylus bivalve (spondylus princeps), placed on each side of his head, and one shell in each of his hands.

The Lord of the Spondylus 
The Lord of the Spondylus

Spondylus were also found in graves at Chotuna, as well as in burials of most of the ancient cultures of the Americas. The spondylus is a bivalve mollusk associated with the Primordial Sea, as the Maya refer to it, and the beginning of time to which all lives return at the end of their days. The fact that this man was buried flat on his back, and the number and placement of spondylus strongly suggest that he might have been a powerful religious man. The question remains, however, as to why the priestess grave was placed above his? The Moche traditionally buried their lords independently of any other nearby, witness the graves at Sipán (Alva, Donan, 1993), San José de Moro (Castillo, 2003), those of Lambayeque at Batán Grande (Shimada, 1994), and other elite tombs on Peru’s north coast. In this case, the superposition of the man’s grave point to an uncertain connection with the priestess, be it family, political, or religious. We may only speculate, for the record is still silent on this point.

The cultural association of the man in the burial was established through symbols found on twenty-eight small copper disks placed on his chest and representing the anthropomorphic wave. The secular and spiritual association with the ocean, upholder of life, was central in the beliefs of the coastal cultures of Peru. As Shimada underlines, “around 1020, a major drought lasting thirty years occurred at Sicán. At the time of the drought, the Sicán deity, Yampalec, closely associated with the ocean and water in general, was at the center of the religion. The long-lasting catastrophic changes in weather (probably triggered by successive El Niño and La Niña events), were thus linked to the deity and its perceived failure to appease nature for the benefit of the people. Religious ceremonies were expected to secure that there would always be an abundance of natural resources to meet the people’s needs.

Furthermore, the elites were believed to be the sanctified mediators between nature, the society at large and the Sicán deity. After thirty years of hardship due to the uncertainty of nature, the temples that were the center of the Middle Sicán religion (900-1100AD), were burned and abandoned between 1050 and 1100. Perhaps the ancestor cult and expansion of power of the elites caused unbearable resentment. Coupled with the drought that weakened agriculture in the area, the tolerance of the common population plummeted, leading to the removal of the political and religious leadership. Further destruction inflicted by El Nino’s floods around 1100 sealed the fate of the society” (Shimada et al, 2004). As Jennings point out, “shaken, people that survive disasters often question their beliefs, create new social groupings and assign culpability to reconstruct their lives,” under these conditions, “new religious ideas and new leaders often emerge that take cultures in new directions” (2008).

Moche Ceremonial Mask   
Peruvian Funerary Mask, 9th-11th century

Must be stressed again the perception of life beyond life and the key role of ancestors, for it is found in most ancient and contemporary beliefs and is central to our story. Foremost, ceremonies related to death helped make the deceased socially alive beyond the grave. McAnany reminds us that “the cult to ancestors was integral to the cosmology and traditions of most cultures in the Andean region and is well documented in those of Mesoamerica” (1995). Divinized ancestors served to create cultural heroes and ancestral deities that were, through repetition, grounded in the long-term social memory of the group, as a common cultural and historical heritage. That is why the bundle of past lords as divinized ancestor, were carried through the assembled community at dedicated times, to keep the departed in the social mind, as a reminder of the descendants to social, political, or religious legitimacy.

Peruvian historian Maritza Villavicencio remarks that “the graves of women leaders such as those of the Moche priestesses of San José de Moro, or the elite Wari women mausoleum of El Castillo de Huarney, were sacred centers of religious and political power, as was the Huaca Pucllana in Lima, and the acllahuasi Inca. The Priestess of Chornancap was a secular and religious leader whose authority encompassed far-reaching territories” (2014). Like the Priestess Mochica of San José de Moro (Castillo, 2003), and later the capullanas Inca, the Priestess of Chornancap’s powers were supreme. She did not owe nor share her determination nor socio-political and religious powers with anyone, be it her father, consort, or brother. Unknown is whether she gave birth to an heir. And if the transmission of power at her death followed an exclusive matrilineal-feminine line of descent, could it have shifted to a son in the absence of a female descendant? The record is still silent on this point, so we may never know.

Photo and Art credits:

The Priestess’ Mortuary Mask ©andina.pe
The Priestess’ Companions ©arqueologiadelperu.com
Bi-metals Implements and Scepter ©arqueologiadelperu.com
The Priestess of Chornancap ©andina.pe
Moche Ceremonial Mask ©cynic.org.uk

References Cited and Further Reading:

Izumi Shimada et al., 2004 – An integral Analisis of Pre-Hispanic Mortuary Practices
Christopher B. Donnan, 2011  –  Chotuna and Chornancap
Izumi Shimada, 1995 – Cultura Sicán
Carlos Wester La Torre, 2015 – Chornancap : Historia, Genero y Ancestralidad en la Cultura Lambayeque
Justin Jennings, 2008 – Catastrophe, Revitalization and Religious Change on the Prehispanic North Coast of Peru
Izumi Shimada et al., 2010 – Pampa Grande and the Mochica Culture
Carlos Wester La Torre, 2016 – Libro Chotuna-Chornancap
Jeffrey Quilter, 2001 – Moche Politics, Religion, and Warfare
Carlos Wester La Torre, 2018 – Personajes de Elite en Chornancap
Luis Jaime Castillo B., et al., 2005 – La Sacerdotisa de San José de Moro
Paul A. Kosok, 1959 – Life, Land and Water in Ancient Peru
Patricia A. McAnany, 1995 – Living with the Ancestors
Mircea Eliade, 1954 – Le Mythe de l’Eternel Retour
Bloch & J. Parry, 1982 – Death and the Regeneration of Life

About the author:

Freelance writer, researcher and photographer, Georges Fery (georgefery.com) addresses topics, from history, culture, and beliefs to daily living of ancient and today’s communities of the Americas. His articles are published online at travelthruhistory.com, ancient-origins.net and popular-archaeology.com, as well as in the quarterly magazine Ancient American (ancientamerican.com), and in the U.K. at mexicolore.co.uk.
The author is a fellow of the Institute of Maya Studies instituteofmayastudies.org, Miami, FL and The Royal Geographical Society, London, U.K. rgs.org. As well as member in good standing of the Maya Exploration Center, Austin, TX mayaexploration.org, the Archaeological Institute of America, Boston, MA archaeological.org, the National Museum of the American Indian, Washington, DC. americanindian.si.edu, and the NFAA – Non-Fiction Authors Association nonfictionauthrosassociation.com.
Contact: Georges Fery – 5200 Keller Springs Road, Apt. 1511, Dallas, Texas 75248, (786) 501 9692 –gfery.43@gmail.com and www.georgefery.com

Filed Under: South America Travel

The Priestess of Chornancap

El Brujo Complex, Peru

by Georges Fery

The history of the conquest of the Americas was written by Spanish conquistadors and later by historians. Until late 20th century, it was believed that communities in ancient Peru were mostly led by men. In the early part of our millennium, however, field work led to discoveries that showed the inaccuracy of the historical record. In the Americas, societies led by women were as successful, or as ill-fated under similar circumstances, as those led by men. The discovery, in a funerary context at Chornancap in northern Peru, helped to understand the historical role of the socio-political and religious structures of communities ruled by prominent women rulers. This story is about one of them.

Peru’s Lambayeque culture is located within a complex of valleys and rivers in northern Peru that included, among others, the communities of Olmos, Motupe, La Leche, Lambayeque, and Zaña. Their cultural achievements were grounded in hydrology, ideology, and economy (Kosok, 1965, Shimada, 1995). An elaborate inter-valley irrigation system, such as the artificial waterways of Taymi and Ynalche, allowed for the fertilization of vast areas for agriculture. It is estimated that “at its apogee, two-third of the available land was cultivated, allowing to sustain over 150,000 people” (Kosok, 1959). Extensive agricultural production supplied markets in the central Andes and produced surpluses that allowed for the building of large public works. Among those were religious centers and their massive, truncated pyramids such as those of Pomac, Apurlec, Túcume (the largest in the Lambayeque valley with twenty-eight pyramids), Chotuna, Chornancap, El Mirador, and others. These temple pyramids were witness to the monumental power, skill, and prestige of the culture.

Lambayeque Area

The Chotuna-Chornancap monumental site went through the three historic periods of the Lambayeque area: Moche, 100-700, Sicán, 700-1300, Chimú, 1300-1470 and Inca, 1470-1532. Of note, is that the funerary practices of the Sicán testify to an elite lineage that used a new religion to sustain and maintain their ideological power. Archaeologist Carlos Wester La Torre, director of the Brüning National Archaeological Museum in Lambayeque, notes that “foremost was the professional control of the faith understood as societal binding through rituals, central tenets of the socio-political and religious spheres. The administration of the state was balanced between water management, land, and religion as the main frame that legitimized the power and authority of a post-Moche new society” (2016).

The Moche civilization is alternatively called the Mochica culture, or early Proto-Chimú, (100-700AD).  The Moche were not a monolithic state for they were, to a certain extent, a group of autonomous polities sharing a common culture and religion within the Lambayeque River valleys. The restructuring and renovation of a complex pantheon of divinities was possible through a sacerdotal elite that appeared to the population during public ceremonies atop massive, truncated pyramids associated with the moon, the ocean, and the land. However, from where did the religious bedrock of the Lambayeque society spring from? The symbols found on ceramic, fabrics, bone, and metal artifacts refer to the legendary Ñaylamp, the god like figure believed to have arrived at the mouth of the Lambayeque River in 800AD on balsa rafts, with a large retinue of people. The area where he landed was already inhabited by groups of folks with their own beliefs and deities. Ñaylamp built his first city at a location called Chot, where the accompanying god Yampalec also resided. Ñaylamp’s twelve sons would be the founders of numerous communities in the multi-valley regional network.

Ñaylamp & Yampalec Landing

There are several theories relative to the collapse of the Moche culture that, most probably was triggered by climatic events, as ice cores drilled from glaciers in the Andes revealed. Between 563 and 594AD, a major El Nino resulted in over twenty years of intense rains and floodings, followed by another twenty years of droughts. These events brought factions to struggle for control of increasingly scarce resources, disrupting Moche socio-economic and political structure that cast severe doubts in the people’s faith in their deities. Ñaylamp’s arrival coincides, a few years later, with the Cajamarca cultural florescence and “may have been instrumental to the fall of the Moche in the 8th to 9th century” (Castillo, 2003). When the Spaniards arrived, they called the deity and culture Llampalec, known today as Lambayeque. The collapse of the Moche culture was followed by the rise of the Sicán, so named by archaeologist Izumi Shimada, which inhabited what is now the north coast of Peru between 750 and 1375 (Shimada et al, 2004). According to Shimada, Sicán means “temple of the moon” while the culture is referred to as Lambayeque after the name of the region in Peru, that succeeded the Moche culture. It may be confusing, for the name Sicán is still controversial among archaeologists and anthropologists who argue over the fact that Moche and Sicán belong to distinct cultural horizons.

During the 2011-2016 archaeological seasons, La Torre uncovered a structure three hundred feet south of the Huaca (pyramid) Chotuna, giving hope that the site would be that of Chot, home of the mythic Ñaylamp. From the mid-twentieth century to the beginning of the twenty first, extensive field work by archaeologists provided a better understanding of how societies of northern Peru rose and fell, as well as a new vision of the function and importance of gender of the ruling class in the region (women were then known to have held high public and religious office in other cultures of Peru). In the neighboring Chicama valley two important sites were found that had been led by women, the Lady of Cao at the El Brujo archaeological site, and the Priestess of San José de Moro, a Moche burial place. The third site is that of the Priestess of Chornancap, the focus of this article; her remains were found on the side of the Chornancap pyramid by La Torre and his team.

The discoveries at Chornancap underlined the role of women in the Lambayeque culture who were associated with powerful connotations grounded in ancestry, divinity, and mythology. At that time, the Lambayeque culture was ruled by its nobility and religious institutions that controlled the multi-valley communities. The relevance of women of high status in Peru, such as those of the Lambayeque, Nazca, Wari, Lima, Inca, and others are corroborated far back in time by elaborate burials and palaces. Remnants of the past reflect a cultural world view integral to its environment and, from earliest times, was grounded in nature’s binary oppositions such as: night-day, up-down, black-white, male-female, life-death, and so on. In other words, the world was perceived in constant flux and in harmony with what Eliade called the “eternal return” and “the regeneration of time” (1954). It is no less important to stress that this binary factor in the evolution of mythologies, rituals, and social organization of human societies, aimed at bringing together the physical and psychological natural attributes of genders in a reciprocal and complementary fashion.

The Chotuna-Chornancap site is located five miles west of the town of Lambayeque, about seven miles northwest of the city of Chiclayo, and eight miles from the Pacific coast. We will not expand our story to the Huaca Chotuna, which is related to the legend of Ñaylamp, but on its twin and neighbor, Huaca Chornancap, the last sanctuary of the priestess known by that name. Chornancap is a one-hundred-and-thirty-foot high, three levels truncated pyramid in whose immediate vicinity the remains of the priestess were found. In both Chotuna and Chornancap, remains of occupation such as remodeling and burials, “are testimonies to constant reshaping of rituals to meet significant political and religious events and social milestones” (La Torre, 2015). Chornancap’s T-shaped truncated pyramid is aligned east-west with a central ramp that reaches its three superimposed platforms.

Huaca Chornancap

In 1980-1982, Christopher Donan conducted extensive research at Chornancap and mapped the site. He discovered remarkable polychrome murals emblematic of the Late Lambayeque mythology associated with the intermediate period of the Chotuna-Chornancap complex, 1100-1300AD. The elite residential area was found on the south side of the Chornancap pyramid. La Torre and his team, during the 2011-2016 archaeological seasons, cleared a 4,500 square foot area adjacent to the polychrome murals. Within this area they found a remarkable structure, thirty feet long and twenty feet wide, with a small ramp linking a four-foot-wide aisle that included two-foot high and five-foot wide benches running on its east and west sides.

At the south end of the aisle archaeologists found a finely crafted low L-shaped structure that, after careful clearing and cleaning, proved to be a wide seat, its back resting on the south wall. Four holes on the ground beyond the seat’s sides may have received high wood poles supporting a light roof to shade the individual seated below; archaeologists refer to this as the throne room. During meetings, seven counselors and other authority figures would kneel on the low benches on each side of the aisle.

3D Throne Room

Two hundred and sixty-five feet from the pyramid a ceremonial area was identified integral to the complex. It was there in 2010-2012, and over subsequent field seasons, that La Torre and his team found the first indication of the second burial of a high-status individual. Second burials are a well-documented practice in most ancient cultures throughout the world and still seen in the Americas. The first, or primary burial addressed the decomposition of the body’s soft tissues. After four to five years, once the decomposition of soft tissues was complete, the bones were removed from the primary burial site, and cleaned by women who were long past the age of reproduction. Once cleaned, the bones, along with appropriate offerings, were transferred to a separate but permanent second burial site, after the bones were wrapped in a bundle made of local fabrics or other material.

The concept of a coffin was still in use, but the bundle was specifically introduced for predominant members of the nobility. For the burial ceremony, the bundle was carried upright on a litter with the mask, crown, and gilded adornments of the departed. This gave the effect that the soul of the person in the bundle was still “alive,” an impression that could not be created using a casket. It was believed that the bundle allowed the soul to be a part of its own final funeral while on its way to the other side of life to meet his or her ancestors. Of note is that not all progenitors qualified as ancestors. Only those that left a significant impact on resource acquisition or lineage alliance were worthy of being venerated. But let us follow, even so briefly, where Wester La Torre and his archaeological team leads us.

A few feet below ground level archaeologists found several fine double-spout Cajamarca style ceramic vessels. Three feet below that layer was found a one-hundred-and-fifty square-foot oval floor ringed with stones. The foot-and-a-half thick floor, made of a finely grounded mud, showed the footprints of four men who evidently dampened it to seal the tomb. The dampening of the seal was then accompanied with the sound of drums and the blowing of strombus conch shells from the ocean. This ceremonial not only addressed a practical process for the structural protection of the grave bellow. It was a dance associated with burial rituals, when the four men sealed the grave and the last ritual as guardians of the world of the living. Excavating below the floor, the archaeologists found two large covers made of grassy fibers that protected the grave. The first cover of about fifty-five square feet, was laid down on an east-west axis, while the second was folded and placed to the west. Both covers showed five-inches-round laminated copper discs in lines of nine (width) and ten (length). The iconography on each disc is representative of the classic composition of the Moon and the anthropomorphic wave of the ocean, key symbols in rituals of the Sicán or Lambayeque religion.

Below the covers was found the priestess’ mortuary bundle made of large brown pieces of fabrics, wrapped around her skeletal remains, on which was the imperturbable burnished copper mask representative of the Lambayeque culture. The eyes on the mask were shaped as wings in the Moche style, while three small metal beads in the shape of tears were applied on each cheek, a metaphoric representation of tears of the soul’s sadness upon leaving this world for the divinized other. Over the mask was a fragile crown of burnished copper establishing the high status of the individual.

 

This is Part One of a Two-Part article. Read Part Two Here.

 

Photo and Art credits:

El Brujo Complex – AlisonRuthHughes, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Lambayeque Area ©arqueologiadelperu.com
Naylamp & Yampalec Landing ©georgefery.com
Huaca Chornancap ©arqueologiadelperu.com
3D Throne Room arqueologiadelperu.com

References Cited and Further Reading:

Izumi Shimada et al., 2004 – An integral Analisis of Pre-Hispanic Mortuary Practices
Christopher B. Donnan, 2011  –  Chotuna and Chornancap
Izumi Shimada, 1995 – Cultura Sicán
Carlos Wester La Torre, 2015 – Chornancap : Historia, Genero y Ancestralidad en la Cultura Lambayeque
Justin Jennings, 2008 – Catastrophe, Revitalization and Religious Change on the Prehispanic North Coast of Peru
Izumi Shimada et al., 2010 – Pampa Grande and the Mochica Culture
Carlos Wester La Torre, 2016 – Libro Chotuna-Chornancap
Jeffrey Quilter, 2001 – Moche Politics, Religion, and Warfare
Carlos Wester La Torre, 2018 – Personajes de Elite en Chornancap
Luis Jaime Castillo B., et al., 2005 – La Sacerdotisa de San José de Moro
Paul A. Kosok, 1959 – Life, Land and Water in Ancient Peru
Patricia A. McAnany, 1995 – Living with the Ancestors
Mircea Eliade, 1954 – Le Mythe de l’Eternel Retour
Bloch & J. Parry, 1982 – Death and the Regeneration of Life

About the author:

Freelance writer, researcher and photographer, Georges Fery (georgefery.com) addresses topics, from history, culture, and beliefs to daily living of ancient and today’s communities of the Americas. His articles are published online at travelthruhistory.com, ancient-origins.net and popular-archaeology.com, as well as in the quarterly magazine Ancient American (ancientamerican.com), and in the U.K. at mexicolore.co.uk.
The author is a fellow of the Institute of Maya Studies instituteofmayastudies.org, Miami, FL and The Royal Geographical Society, London, U.K. rgs.org. As well as member in good standing of the Maya Exploration Center, Austin, TX mayaexploration.org, the Archaeological Institute of America, Boston, MA archaeological.org, the National Museum of the American Indian, Washington, DC. americanindian.si.edu, and the NFAA – Non-Fiction Authors Association nonfictionauthrosassociation.com.
Contact: Georges Fery – 5200 Keller Springs Road, Apt. 1511, Dallas, Texas 75248, (786) 501 9692 –gfery.43@gmail.com and www.georgefery.com

 

 

 

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