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Dreaming of a Charles Dickens Christmas

Charles Dickens house London

by W. Ruth Kozak 

A Christmas CarolIt’s that time of year again when Charles Dickens’ A Christmas Carol is replayed on TV. I love watching the old classic with Alastair Sim playing the role of Ebenezer Scrooge. I have enjoyed Dickens’ stories since I was very young so when Hollywood began making them into movies and some were adapted for the stage, such as the musical Oliver it was delighted. I saw “Oliver” performed during its first run in London. And I’ve seen adaptations of A Christmas Carol on stage as well.

A Christmas Carol was written during a time of decline in the old Christmas traditions. Dickens wrote it as a serial for the newspaper at a time when he was financially strapped. The English poet Thomas Hood said, “If Christmas, with its ancient and hospitable customs, its social and charitable observances, were in danger of decay, this is the book that would give them a new lease. As a result of his Christmas “ghost story”, first published on December 19, 1843 with illustrations by John Leech, Charles Dickens probably had more influence on the way we celebrate Christmas today than any single individual. His Christmas stories (A Christmas Carol was one of five) kindled the joy of Christmas across Britain and America.

Charles DickensI have visited Dickens’ home in London, now a museum full of furnishing in the style of the 1800s. It’s the only house still standing that the writer lived in for any length of time. Dickens moved to the house at 48 Doughty Street in the Spring of 1837 along with his wife Catherine and their new baby Charles, as well as Dickens’ brother Fred who worked in the counting house of Dickens’ first publisher. Catherine’s younger sister Mary Hogarth was also a frequent visitor.

Dickens Museum LondonAt this time Dickens was on the threshold of fame with his successful Pickwick Papers. Soon after the family moved in, Mary Hogarth died of heart failure at the age of 17. Dickens was so shocked he couldn’t write and his publications of the Pickwick Papers and Oliver Twist, which ran as a newspaper serial, were halted. Eventually he resumed writing and in his later fiction novels such as Old Curiosity Shop, “Little Nell” was based on Mary.

Inside the study of Doughty St. house you can see the desk that Dickens’ used until the end of his life. The room is depicted in an engraving “The Empty Chair” by Sir Luke Fildes. Dickens always worked with fresh flowers on his writing table.

I’ve always dreamed of celebrating Christmas in London, a real Dickens’ Christmas where the famous writer once lived. A Victorian Christmas with all the old traditions right in the place where they all began. There are other towns in England where Dickens lived too, and each place holds celebrations at Christmas. The Dickensian Christmas is a must with the aromas of roasting chestnuts, the traditional Christmas goose and plum pudding, skating on frozen ponds and caroling in the streets.

One of these days I want to participate and be part of a real Dickens Victorian Christmas, remembering the famous words of Tiny Time “God Bless us Every One.”

If You Go:


Charles Dickens Old London – A Private and Bespoke Tour

The Dickens House (a museum, library and headquarters of the Dickens Fellowship) is located at 48 Doughty Street, London WCIN 2LF

Telephone: +44 ()) 2074052127

Open daily 10 am to 6 pm Tues -Sundays and Bank Holidays.

info@dickensmuseum.com


Charles Dickens Walking Tour

Getting There:

Check the on-line map for instructions.

Take the Underground to Chancery Lane, Holborn, King’s Cross or Russell Square.

Drive and park on meter (free parking Saturdays after 1.30 pm) or in the Brunswick Square National Car Park.

About the author:

W. Ruth Kozak is a travel writer, blogger and the editor/publisher of Travel Thru History. An ardent traveler who has family roots in the United Kingdom, she enjoyed visiting the Charles Dickens Museum in London on a recent visit. Ruth is president of the BC Association of Travel Writers and the author of a historical fiction novel SHADOW OF THE LION, about the fall of Alexander the Great’s dynasty. www.inalexandersfootsteps.com

View of Charles Dickens’ house on Doughty Street © Copyright Robert Lamb and licensed for reuse under this Creative Commons Licence.

Tagged With: Charles Dickens museum, Dickens walking tours, London tours Filed Under: UK Travel

Old Wardour Castle

Old Wardour Castle

by Keith Kellett

You’ll probably recognise Old Wardour Castle from the film Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves. According to the film, it’s just outside Carcassonne, to which Robin journeyed by way of Hadrian’s Wall. In actual fact, though, it’s near Tisbury, in Wiltshire, and is only reached by way of a tortuous country road.

The castle was first built in the 1390s, when John, Lord Lovell bought a parcel of land, and received, from King Richard II a ‘licence to crenellate’ … that is, permission to build a castle.

The design was different, for, by this time, castles were not only defensive works, but visible demonstrations of the wealth and influence of their occupants … and Lord Lovell was wealthy and influential. His design was based on the hexagonal castles frequently seen on the Continent; indeed, it’s the only castle of a hexagonal plan in England.

 Unfortunately for the Lovell family, they backed the wrong side in the Wars of the Roses, and the castle was forfeited to the Crown in 1461, and changed hands several times before being bought by Sir Thomas Arundell in 1544. Sir Thomas, a Roman Catholic, was accused of treason, and executed in 1552. The castle was once more confiscated, but was bought back by Sir Thomas’ son, Sir Matthew Arundell, in 1570.

The castle remained in the hands of the Arundells, who were elevated to the peerage, until the Civil War. The family were still staunch Roman Catholics, so they were loyal to the Royalist cause. So, the castle was besieged by Parliamentarian forces, and, in the absence of Thomas, Lord Arundell, a garrison of only 25 men, led by Thomas’; wife, the formidable Lady Blanche Arundell, held out for six days against a besieging force of about 1300.

Eventually, Lady Blanche surrendered, and, shortly afterwards, Thomas died of wounds received at the Battle of Stratton. His son Henry, the 3rd Baron, decided he wanted his castle back, and laid siege to the place once more. The Royalists laid explosive charges underneath the castle, and it’s believed that the defendants were on the point of surrender when told of the mere threat of these. What happened next isn’t clear, but it’s believed they were accidentally set off by the defenders, destroying the castle wall, and leading to the eventual surrender of the Parliamentarian forces.

seige of wardour recreationSome years ago, I went to a series of re-enactments of these two sieges by the ‘Old Wardour Garrison’, and managed to get some pictures. But, of course, the damage to the walls had already been done, over 350 years before. The castle was, however, partly rebuilt and made habitable, but, in 1776, the Arundells built New Wardour nearby. The fashion of the day was to have a ‘folly’ in your grounds, to add some drama and romance to the landscape. Some landowners would have a replica of a ruined castle built for them, but a ‘real’ old castle in your garden would definitely put you one-up on your neighbours! Here they would often hold outdoor balls, picnics and other celebrations.

You can still do that today; you can even get married there. Or, you can just wander around the grounds, and admire the architecture, and absorb the history of the place.

If You Go:

Old Wardour Castle is in the custodianship of English Heritage. It’s open daily, betweenа10 a.m. and 6 p.m. It’s located 3.5 miles SW of Tisbury, just off the A30 road. If you bring a car, parking is free, but there is very limited parking space.

Entry is £5 for an adult; concessions for senior citizens, children or families. English Heritage members free. Visitors from abroad can buy the Overseas Visitors Pass; see http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/overseas-visitors for details.

If you don’t have a car, your journey there will be only slightly less arduous than Robin Hood’s.  You can take a bus from Salisbury to Tisbury (Service no. 26 to Shaftesbury) www.salisburyreds.co.uk or the train from Salisbury to Tisbury www.southwesttrains.co.uk

If you don’t fancy a 3.5 mile walk to the castle, there are several taxi firms in Tisbury.

About the author:

Keith Kellett writes about, and photographs food and drink, beer, old cars, railways, beer, steam engines, historical re-enactments, bygones, beer, gardens, travel, beer and brewing, nature and the outdoors and beer. Sometimes, he gets published; sometimes, he even gets paid! He operates a blog travelrat.wordpress.com and is presently trying to get his head around video and podcasting. His work frequently appears on the Web, as well as in British and American magazines, and English language magazines in Japan, Greece, Germany and Egypt.

Photos by Keith Kellett

Tagged With: english castles, southwest england attractions, wardour castle Filed Under: UK Travel

Southsea Castle Artillery Museum

Southsea Castle Artillery Museum
by Matthew Adams

Southsea Castle is a coastal fortification that dates back to the 16th century. Located on the coast of Clarence Esplanade, a grassy patch in Southsea beside the D-Day Museum, the castle remained a coastal fortification for centuries up until the world wars of the 20th century. It was constructed to guard the narrow coastal waters of the Solent from enemy navies, and was stocked with a considerable assortment of guns to blast ships out of the water. Today, some of that artillery remains in the Southsea Castle Museum.

By the early 19th century, the British Empire was at war with Napoleonic France. France planned for a potential invasion of Great Britain. As such, modernized coastal defences, as well as a larger number of Royal Navy ships, became increasingly essential for the British. By then Southsea Castle was a somewhat outdated coastal citadel loaded with a lightweight collection of artillery such as 32-pounder and a few 6-pounder guns. The castle’s grand battery had also been eroded. The coastal ‘fortress’ would probably have had little impact on any French warships had they passed it.

Renovation proposals for the castle were proposed as early as 1804, but subsequently delayed. It was not until 1813 that Southsea Castle was revamped, with parts of the fortification reconstructed. Major-General Fisher was influential in the modernization of the castle. From 1813 the general rounded the south coastal bastion, and reconstructed the northern bastion facing inland. This made space for barrack rooms and gun platforms above them. The top of the castle’s keep was also squared off with the removal of outdated watchtowers, and an additional four positions were established for 24-pounder guns.

Despite the defeat of Napoleon, another decline in Anglo-Franco relations during the century ensured that the castle was further expanded from 1850 – 1869. Part of the expansion included the addition of the east and west batteries. Located just beyond the castle, the east and west auxiliary batteries have since been landscaped; and no artillery is now included there. As warship gun ranges expanded four sea forts were also constructed in the Solent, which included up to 54 guns. Then they could pick off the ships if they were outside Southsea Castle’s range.

The rise of aircraft and missiles ensured the decline of coastal artillery in the army during the post-war period. As such, Southsea Castle has since been an artillery museum. Today, the castle museum is largely dominated by artillery from the 19th century period. One notable exception is the 24-pounder cannon within the castle’s courtyard that went down with the Royal George ship in 1782. That was later recovered by a diver in 1834, and the artillery was not a part of the castle’s armament.

Just outside the entrance of this castle are two 19th century artillery pieces. One is an 1853 68-pound smooth-bore muzzle-loader of 96 cwt. Those artillery pieces were among the last of the smooth-bores, and were also among the largest iron guns. These were guns that were deployed in the Crimean War against the armies of the Russian Empire, and it is believed that the artillery piece outside Southsea Castle was one included in the Siege of Sevastopol.

To the right of the entrance is an artillery piece introduced in 1868. That is a 9-inch RML Armstrong-Fraser Gun of 12 tons. These were primary and secondary armaments for British battleships, and were also incorporated for coastal defence. In the 1880s and 1890s some were adapted as high-angle coast defence guns. The guns were a big part of the 1860 Royal Commission heavy armaments. At Southsea Castle they were positioned along the west auxiliary battery, which was constructed in the 1860s to boost the castle’s fire-power.

Behind these guns is a bridge that crosses the castle’s dry moat up to the entrance. The entrance leads to the castle’s small courtyard, otherwise the bailey, which is surrounded by four granite gun platforms which slope down towards the parapet. They were sloped to absorb the recoil of the guns.

In the centre of the bailey is the castle’s square keep that is now the primary building of the museum which includes a range of artillery, models and other artefacts. The keep has a red-brick interior and vaulted ceilings which were added to reinforce it against enemy shells. Its three metre stone walls further strengthened the castle. A spiral staircase leads up to the roof which has four gun positions, and a flag mast for raising and lowering flags.

On the ground floor of the keep there are two guns located in front of the castle’s windows. One is a rifled 3-pounder gun that was introduced in 1876. The gun has a hexagonal cross-section which rotates slightly along the barrel. The design was supposed to enhance the range and accuracy of its shells, although as they occasionally jammed they were not widely adopted artillery pieces. Alongside that there is an 1876 breach-loading gun, which had a solid 3Ib iron shot.

On the secondary floor, the museum includes a 7-inch rifled breach-loading (BL) gun. First introduced during the 1860s, it was quite a big step forward for artillery technology. Unlike many alternatives it was constructed with wrought iron instead of cast iron, and the barrel had a series of tubes. To increase the rate of fire the barrel was loaded at the rear instead of the muzzle. BL guns eventually became the standard coastal artillery pieces across the British Empire, and so they gradually replaced muzzle-loaders at Southsea Castle. Outdated muzzle-loaders were slowly moved by hand across Southsea Common to make way for new BL guns.

Also included within the keep museum are artillery shells and cannon balls. One artillery shell is displayed on the ground floor, which is a studded shell for a ten-inch 1870 RML gun. Stone cannon balls recovered from the castle’s well are also on display in the keep.

CannonYou can go up the castle’s ramparts, or gun platforms, which surround the keep. They provide some great views of the surrounding coastline, especially if you go up the castle’s lighthouse. Along these platforms artillery aligns the fortification’s walls. The majority are located along the north bastion, which faces inland. They are 32-pounder smooth-bore muzzle-loading guns from the Napoleonic period. In 1814, the guns would have been mounted on the landward side of the castle. At the southern bastion, overlooking the sea, there is one 64-pound rifled muzzle-loading gun mounted on a transversing platform. It was constructed in 1872 at the Royal Gun Factory, in Woolwich, and weighs some 3,600 kilos.

cannonsBehind the seaward artillery magazines there is a small passageway from inside the castle that runs around the fortification. This passageway, or tunnel, is that of the carponier. The bomb-proof carponier runs around the outer wall of the moat and leads to the counterscarp gallery from where they could fire their guns if required. Myths associated with the castle suggested that the carponier tunnel linked it to Spitbank fort under the seabed.

When at the castle you can also visit its shop, and the barracks located under the northern bastion. Don’t forget that Southsea Castle also has a cafщ with drinks and cakes. They are located within the castle’s courtyard area.

Southsea Castle is open from March up to the winter period, Tuesday through Sunday. With a fascinating collection of 19th century artillery, historical re-enactments and great views of the Solent you can have a great day out at the castle. For further details on the museum, check out its website at www.southseacastle.co.uk.

If You Go:

D-Day Museum

Pyramids Center

About the author:
Matthew is a freelancer who has produced a variety of articles for various publications and websites such as Swing Golf Magazine, TripAdvisor, Naval History, Artilleryman, dotTech, Bright Hub, Coed Magazine the Washington Post and Vagabundo Travel. Matthew is also the author of Battles of the Pacific War 1941 Ц 1945. Check out the book’s blog at: battlesofthepacificwar.blogspot.co.uk.

All photographs by Matthew Adams

  1. The Southsea Castle gateway that includes a drawbridge which leads to the courtyard
  2. The 64-pound rifled muzzle-loading gun atop the castle
  3. The 32-pounder smooth-bore muzzle-loading cannons atop the castle that were positioned to fire at more inland targets

 

 

Tagged With: British castles, Victorian artillery Filed Under: UK Travel

A Child’s Christmas in Wales: Memories of Dylan Thomas in Swansea

Dylan Thomas Centre

by W. Ruth Kozak  

One Christmas was so much like another,
In those years around the sea-town corner now
And out of all sound except the distant speaking
Of the voices I sometimes hear a moment before sleep,
That I can never remember whether it snowed
For six days and six nights when I was twelve
Or whether it snowed for twelve days and
Twelve nights when I was six.

These precious words of Dylan Thomas are one of the best known and loved Christmas prose poems ever written. Born in Swansea, Wales in 1914, Dylan Thomas was Wales’ most beloved poets. He has been acknowledged as one of the most important Welsh poets of the 20th century.

Dylan Thomas statueIncluded in his works are “Do not go gentle into that good night,” “Under Milk Wood” and “Portrait of a the Artist as a Young Dog.” Thomas began his career at the age of 16 as a journalist and many of his works appeared in print while he was still a teenager. Although he was appreciated as a one of the most popular poets of his time, he found living an earning as a writer difficult so he augmented his income with reading tours and radio broadcasts. In 1937 he married Caitlin Macnamara and lived for a time in the Welsh fishing village of Laugharne. Unfortunately, their relationship was destructive due to Thomas’s alcoholism.

He recorded his famous work “A Child’s Christmas in Wales” while he was touring in the United States. It has been recorded since then by other famous Welsh actors including Richard Burton who was a great pal of the Thomas. Sadly, in 1953 during a trip to New York, Thomas collapsed outside a bar after downing a great quantity of whiskey and later died. His body was returned to Wales and buried in the village churchyard in Laugharne.

Coming from a Welsh back-ground, I’ve always been fascinated by Dylan Thomas writing, especially A Child’s Christmas in Wales. Every year I watch the video movie made of the famous poem. And on one of my trips to Wales I had the privilege of visiting Swansea and the Dylan Thomas Centre.

Dylan Thomas TheatreThe Dylan Thomas Centre is housed in a beautiful Regency building in Swansea’s Maritime Quarter. The centre hosts many literary and art programs. It was a thrill for me to wander the exhibits, all the while entertained by the rich Welsh tenor of Richard Burton reciting Thomas’s “Under Milk Wood”. The exhibits include bits of Dylan Thomas’ life including photos, hand-written notes and journals, news clips and other memorabilia. The Swansea Bay area has produced many other world-famous cultural icons such as actors Richard Burton, Catherin Zeta-Jones, and Anthony Hopkins. Burton was a personal friend of Thomas and there is a special display honoring their friendship.

Outside the Centre, facing the marina, is a life-size bronze statue of the poet, and not far away is the Dylan Thomas Theatre. The Swansea Little Theatre was the first Little Theatre in Wales. The group began performing from 1924. In the early ‘30’s Dylan Thomas became a member of the troupe and appeared with them in several plays over the next few years. The Swansea Little Theatre group moved to its present location in 1983.

If You Go:

Swansea Tourism

Dylan Thomas Centre

Dylan Thomas Theatre

The Dylan Thomas Website

Laugharne (The Boat House)

A Child’s Christmas In Wales

About the author:
Ruth’s roots are in Caerphilly Wales and she visits there frequently. Ruth has been a travel writer and adventurer for many years, writing mostly about UK and Greece (her second home). As well as being the former editor/publisher of TRAVEL THRU HISTORY she’s on the staff of www.europeupclose.com and freelances to other on-line and print publications. Her historical fiction novel SHADOW OF THE LION will be published in August 2014 (first part: BLOOD ON THE MOON and second part THE FIELDS OF HADES 18 months later) by www.mediaaria-cdm.com. Ruth’s website has links to her writing at www.ruthkozak.com and there is a blog for the novel at http://shadowofthelion.com.

All Swansea photos by W. Ruth Kozak

Tagged With: Swansea attractions, Wales travel Filed Under: UK Travel

England: A Day in Royal Greenwich

The Queen's House, Greenwich

by Nicole Bergstrom

Regal. That is the only word to describe the feeling I had when visiting Royal Borough of Greenwich. The neighborhood was only a ten-minute walk from my Greenwich hotel, and since it was an overcast and slightly chilly but otherwise mild November weather day, I explored this borough of southeast London by foot. It is an extraordinary place to spend a day walking around and observing history and taking it easy for a few hours.

Greenwich Park

gREENWICH pARKYou can stroll around Greenwich Park and take in views of the city of London, the Royal Observatory, Isle of Dogs and the River Thames. This 180-acre park is part of the Greenwich World Heritage Site and is open year-round. This area of land was originally used for falconry in the 15th century. The next century, King Henry the VIII brought deer unto the land for hunting, and to present day a small herd is maintained in a southeast section. Walking the numerous pathways in the park you will see beautiful 17th century chestnut trees including the famous Queen’s Oak named after Queen Elizabeth I, many flower gardens, a duck pond and a cricket patch, plus many more amenities for visitors to enjoy.

The Queen’s House

[TOP PHOTO] This house was commissioned by King James I for his wife Anne Of Denmark. It was built from 1616 to 1635 by architect Inigo Jones. It has become one of the most important homes in British history, due to the fact that it is the first classical structure built in England. You can walk into the Great Hall and look up at the ceiling and marvel at the Tulip Stairs, first of their kind.

In this house, I found the Portrait of Queen Elizabeth I in the Queen’s Presence Chamber. This Tudor Portrait was ahead of its time, as it was an early symbol of modern feminism, showing her power as a monarch with her hand on a globe, embroidered suns in gold on her clothing and her upright posture and clear gaze.

As you walk throughout the Queen’s House, you cannot help but get absorbed in the over 450 works of art on the walls.

The Royal Observatory

Prime MeridianThe Prime Meridian is located at this site and that is how the term Greenwich Mean Time came about. The Royal Observatory was commissioned on August 10th, 1675 by King Charles II with the foundation stone laid on that day. Architect Sir Christopher Wren chose the site. The International Date Line divides the Eastern and Western Hemispheres. The Prime Meridian is marked in several ways at the observatory, including a brass then stainless-steel strip in the courtyard, a sign inside the observatory, and since December 1999 this basis of longitude has been marked by a laser pointing North into the London sky.

Inside the Royal Observatory building, you will learn about the work of British astronomers such as James Bradley, mathematician Jonas Moore and clockmaker Thomas Tompian that collaborated on the conception and establishment of the Royal Observatory and the Prime Meridian.

The Cutty Sark

Cutty SarkIt really is something to be in the presence of the famous Cutty Sark. Located on the Thames River at Greenwich Pier, this British Clipper Ship was built in 1869. She was one of the last tea clipper ships and one of the fastest. The Cutty Sark has an amazing history as it was used as primarily a tea transport ship for its first eight years in service, a various cargo ship from 1878 to 1873, an Australian wool cargo ship and was finally sold to Portuguese cargo company J. Ferreira & Co. ship in 1895, and served on this fleet renamed Ferreira until 1922 when she was renamed Cutty Sark and returned to her present home of Greenwich in London. Many events are planned year-round in and around this historical clipper ship and it is definitely worth a visit when in London.

North Greenwich and Greenwich Market

The streets of Greenwich still have the feeling of another time, in spite of the fact that a few modern chain restaurants are located throughout the borough. From the quaint Tudor taverns to the Greenwich Market, you really feel like you are stepping in the past. Here you can get some traditional British fish and chips, or Pie and Mash with eels. Here there are many unique shops and food vendors to serve every budget and taste.


Royal Greenwich Day Tour

from: Viator

If You Go:

The borough of Greenwich is located in a section of London that is convenient to many other attractions in the city. This area of the city is accessible from the London Underground Station North Greenwich, or you can take the Docklands Light Railway to the Cutty Sark Station. From the riverbank, you can catch numerous ferries across the Thames. You can take the Emirates Air Line cable car from the Greenwich Peninsula near the O2 Arena over the Thames to the very popular Excel Center at the Royal Docks.

You can also get a ‘Cutty Sark’ Entrance Ticket online.

Daily guided tours of Royal Greenwich are offered several times a day from the visitor center. These tours take you around the borough and give you a good orientation of the area.

About the author:
Nicole Bergstrom is a journalist and seasoned traveler. She studied Journalism/Communications at Pace University, where she focused her course of study on magazine feature writing. She worked for nine years in magazine advertising before returning to her passions: writing and traveling. In May 2017, she started her travel blog, Nicole the Travel Scribe, where she documents her journeys.

Photo Credits:
Queen’s House by Bill Bertram / CC BY-SA
All other photos are by Nicole Bergstrom

 

Tagged With: Greenwich attractions Filed Under: UK Travel

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