Moscow, Russia

by Adam Bennett

As I stared into the thick bulletproof glass separating me from the legendary dogmatic Russian leader I was surprised to see he was still looking his best. During the first few weeks after his death in 1924 Lenin was embalmed and set on display in Red Square. This enabled over ¾ million Russian citizens to pay their respects to the man who liberated them from the former socially destructive Tsar dynasty in the early 20th century.

Born Vladimir Ilich Ulyanov, he became known as Lenin whilst in exile in Siberia during the early years of his political career. Some say he took his name from a nearby lake or from his middle name Ilich. Resting in a grand red granite mausoleum, Lenin’s cyrillic name is set atop the entrance echoing a turbulent Soviet and Russian past.

I arrived in Red Square on a blisteringly cold January morning and was instantly taken aback at the incredible sight of St. Basil’s cathedral, the Kremlin and Lenin’s Mausoleum. Red Square’s infamous red brick and cobbled stone have seen witness to public executions, Soviet parades and rock concerts. Even though at the time I only had a hazy knowledge of Russian history, Red Square is a truly spectacular sight and a historical attraction I had always wanted to visit.

As I joined a long queue of weary tourists I struck up a conversation with a fellow Englishman who was visiting Lenin for the second time. He explained to me that during his first visit he queued for well over two hours before arriving at the airport style security checks only to be turned away because he still had a mobile phone in his pocket. Thankfully, entrance to the mausoleum is free, however visitors should be mindful to store any cameras, mobile phones or bags at the cloakroom nearby to the mausoleum.

Luckily, I only queued for half an hour before reaching the security barriers. The sullen faces of the soldiers manning security gave the impression that this was one of the more menial tasks given to a Russian soldier and it lead me to conclude that they did not want to be there.

To keep the mausoleum from getting overcrowded the soldiers let groups of around 12 visitors through the security barriers at 10-minute intervals. As I was going through the security checks one soldier stared point blank at me before saying something in frustrated Russian and scanning me with a flashing handheld device. He gestured for me to continue through the security barrier and I joined a small group of visitors being herded down a granite path. As we reached the entrance it became apparent that the mausoleum was much larger than it had first appeared.

The atmosphere was tense and by this time all visitors had taken their hats off apart from me. This was much to the annoyance of one soldier who angrily motioned for me to remove my hat immediately. Now accompanied by two armed guards, we descended down three dark flights of stairs until we reached the crypt.

The crypt was dimly lit and five heavily armed guards stationed in different corners of the room watched us intently as we entered. Lenin, complete in his replica 1920’s style suit (the original was replaced in 2003) and trademark white spotted tie he almost looked peacefully asleep behind the glass. His head rests on a velvet pillow with his arms by his side and the embalmed communist leader could have been mistaken for a wax model at Madame Tussauds. I learnt afterwards that both the temperature and lighting within the tomb are meticulously monitored to ensure that Lenin’s body will continue to be seen by millions of people in the years to come.

As we came out of the mausoleum into the cold Russian air we were guided along a series of gravestones and busts of some of Russia’s most famous figures including Josef Stalin, Felix Dzerzhinsky and Mikhail Kalinin. There is also a plaque dedicated to Yuri Gagarin, the first man in space.

For any traveler visiting Moscow and Red Square Lenin’s mausoleum is a definite must see especially for those who have an interest in Russian history. An experience that you won’t forget in a hurry. Vladimir ‘Lenin’ Ulyanov revolutionised Russia and is one of the most charismatic figures of the early 20th century.

Tour to The Lenin Mausoleum in Moscow Russia

If You Go:

♦ Leave cameras at home! Whilst there is a cloakroom facility next to the mausoleum, it is expensive and you definitely won’t be allowed inside with any digital technology.
♦ Arrive early! There will always be a queue to visit Lenin. On weekends and peak times queues can last up to four hours. Just because you’re in the queue it doesn’t mean you’re guaranteed entry either. It’s all up to the guard’s digression.
♦ Check the opening times! Lenin’s mausoleum is never open on a Monday but is open from 10am – 1pm Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays.

Photo credits:
Lenin’s Tomb by Rosie Hayes from Pixabay
Portrait of Lenin by Wwamirhosseinww / CC BY-SA
Lenin monument by Ferran Cornellà / CC BY-SA

About the author:
Fuelled by his love of travelling and being on the road, Adam Bennett has written some unique and compelling articles from his experiences across the globe. From visiting dogmatic political figures in Red Square to recounting stories of touring and busking throughout Europe. Adam Bennett gives a delectable insight into the world of nomadic travelling.

by Maria Kozyreva

When I was a little girl my parents took me to Moscow to visit the circus or dolphinarium. I remember crowds of people and the noisy metro. I even remember how afraid I was to be lost in one of the metro stations. As I grew up and finished secondary school I arrived in Moscow to enter one of its Universities. Exams have passed and I became “a real Moscow student” because I had a chance to live in a student residence, to meet lots of new people and to have a fresh look at Moscow.

For me (and for the majority of tourists) Moscow is a big Russian city with lots of business centers and sightseeing among which were the Red Square, St. Basil’s Cathedral, Kremlin and other famous places. But frankly speaking, if you want to get to know the capital of Russia it is not enough to visit only these “standard sightseeing” places. One should know at least a little bit about its history and culture, and try to understand Moscovites and their lifestyle.

I remember how my friends and I began our first tours with simple strolls along Moscow streets with a history book in hands. I was surprised for the first time when I got to know that the structure of the Russian capital consists of rings. Yes, it is! If you look at Moscow city map you will be surprised by its similarity to annual rings.

The first one is the Kremlin where the residence of the President of the Russian Federation is situated. Kremlin is a wonder and you will read everything about it in any tourist guide. I would like to attract your attention to the streets that start from the heart of Moscow. For example, Tverskaya. In the 18th and 19th centuries it was the main street in the city. The best Moscow mansions, hotels and shops were built here. Today in Tverskaya you may also see the residence of the Mayor of Moscow and the English Club. At night it’s a pleasure to walk along this street with its sparkling lights and billboards but don’t forget that it is considered to be one of the most expensive trade streets not only in Moscow and in Russia but also in the whole world.

As you wander about city center don’t forget to look at Stoleshnikov Lane that runs from Bolshaya Dmitrovka. This small street is not so famous, its history is neither so captivating. Nowadays the street is stuffed with expensive boutiques and stores but still Stoleshnikov Lane remains one of the most favorite streets for Moscovites. The secret of this small street lies in its special atmosphere. If you arrive in Moscow in winter, please don’t forget to visit it. Some restaurants like to switch on classic music so that it is heard outdoors. Snowflakes fall slowly, shop windows and New Year garlands are glowing and it seems to you that you are on the pages of a wonderful fairytale.

If you decide to go further, you will continue your way following any main street of the city center and sooner or later find yourself in the middle of the next Moscow ring that is called the Boulevard Ring. It is the city’s centermost road that begins in the west, passing through major Moscow squares (such as Pushkin and Arbat Square) and ends in the east. So if you follow the Boulevard ring you may see the majority of the city’s sightseeing.

If you are in Moscow for the first time it may seem to you that each square in Boulevard ring is almost the same. Yes, they are all similar, they are green and have almost the same appearance. Almost. In reality, each square on this street has its own features. Take, for example, the Gogolev Boulevard (the very beginning of the Boulevard ring) that starts near the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour. (Top photo) I never tire of visiting this Cathedral. Look at its golden domes, at its magnificent white walls. It is considered to be the central Russian Orthodox Church. However some Russians think that it is too magnificent, and in the last few years it has become a museum. But it is still a functional cathedral and one should respect feelings of Orthodox adherents when visiting it, especially during the Divine Services.

I adore Gogolev Boulevard. I love walking along its small park that ends with the statue of the great Russian writer Nikolai Vasilievitch Gogol. One of my friends whispered to me that she liked to make wishes to Gogol monument. The writer always hears her and makes her wishes come true. Me too, I made a wish. Let’s wait and see if she has told me the truth!

Once you reach the monument of Gogol, his boulevard comes to an end and you find yourself in the Arbat Square. For Moscovites, Arbat is not simply a street. It’s a “Moscow in Moscow” with its history, traditions and originality. From the XI century Arbat was densely populated. There were lots of wooden houses and churches. Unfortunately during the Revolution, Arbat suffered a lot. It became grey and desolate. In Soviet times the New Arbat appeared and swallowed up many churches, monuments and statues. Moscow didn’t like this new street that destroyed the original Arbat. People rudely called the New Arbat “a set of false teeth” as they considered it as an artificial and ugly element that intruded in one of their favourite streets. Fortunately a part of Arbat was preserved and now you can look at it when walking along the Old Arbat street. Do please visit the Old street! There is a lot to see. Would you like to have your own portrait painted? Choose an artist. Any souvenirs? What about Russian folklore? If you are lucky enough you will meet musicians, dancers and even clowns here. Don’t forget to take your camera.

What is so important about Moscow’s city center? It is that the city center is the center of Moscow’s history. If one wants to understand its traditions and culture, he/she should take a curious look at its past.

Copyright © 2009 by Kozyreva Maria.

Moscow Private Tour: Izmailovo Kremlin and Vodka Museum

If You Go:

Moscow is an economic and political center of the Russian Federation and is one of the biggest cities in the world. As it is also a business center of the country, the traffic here is rather intense especially in rush hours, so sometimes its more convenient to use metro (news.metro.ru) For Moscow hotels/restaurants: Travel Guide www.moscowcity.com. www.geographia.com/moscow

About the author:
Maria Kozyreva is a freelance writer and interpreter working and living in Russia. She is fond of learning foreign languages as she believes that they open the door to the world. She also enjoys traveling and painting. Contact: fleurlaska@hotmail.com.

All photographs are by Maria Kozyreva.

Changing the Artistic Face of Russia

by Maria Kozyreva

Once you are in Moscow, as you walk down its streets, go sightseeing, visit the most popular tourists’ attractions, almost everywhere you find sculptures, mosaic or decorations of Moscow’s own sculptor.

“Moscow has its own sculptor?” you ask.

Actually, yes. It has its own chief sculptor who has changed the architectural layout of the Russian capital. His name is Zurab Tsereteli. He was born in 1934 in Tbilisi (Georgia) where he graduated from the Academy of Arts. In 1964 he studied in France where he got to know famous artists Picasso and Chagal. In 2003 Tsereteli obtained Russian citizenship status for outstanding service for Russian Federation and even nowadays he continues creating. Whether or not he has made Moscow more beautiful or only spoiled it are heated debates that will last forever. Let me provide you with the facts, some background information and pictures so that you can make your own conclusion and maybe, put an end to this endless argument.

Let’s go to the Red Square, the heart of Moscow. In the Manezhnaya square, right in the Alexander Garden you will find sculptures that depict famous Russian fairytales. Look at the sculpture “The Old Man and the Goldfish.” According to the fairy tale this Fish can carry out three wishes of anyone who catches it. The Old man was lucky. He was very poor but had a kind and honest heart, so he just let the Fish free. But his greedy wife wanted to become the Sea queen so the Fish obeyed her. In the end the Goldfish punished the old woman for her greediness and envy.

Now let’s stroll along the Mokhovaya street, then turn to Volkhonka and in fifteen minutes we are standing in front of the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour. It’s the major Russian Orthodox cathedral, built to commemorate the sacrifices of the Russian people and their victory in the war with Napoleon. In 1953 it was blown up and completely destroyed. Only after more than 40 years did the reconstruction began. Although the construction was supported by many social groups, it was the center of many disputes, protests and allegations of authorities in corruption. Moreover a part of the society was so irritated that the author of the project was replaced by Zurab Tsereteli, under whose direction the original layout of the cathedral was changed. Thus he introduced several controversial innovations, such as modern bronze reliefs that you can see on the walls of the cathedral that are unusual for Orthodox architecture. Moreover wall paintings were done by artists recommended by Tsereteli, which cultural values are also disputable.

Now that you are familiar with some Tsereteli’s masterpieces I think that you are ready to look at one of the most scandalous sculptures in Moscow, the Peter I monument, standing on Moskva river. (Pictured left) Some Moscovites hate it, others laugh at the irony; there are those who like and adore it but nobody is indifferent. Peter the Great is the Russian tsar who had drastically changed its history. In a few words his policy was Europe-oriented. Historians say that he “had hacked through a window to Europe”. He used to send nobles to foreign educational institutions. He imposed on Russians European culture, reformed social structure, extended Russian territory in Baltic region and finally was titled the first Russian emperor. In fact it’s hard to underestimate his policy but still the majority of Moscovites don’t appreciate this sculpture. Why? Here’s three reasons that evoke lots of discussions and disputes around this monument. The first one is that fact this sculpture stands in Moscow because Peter I not only hated Moscow but he had been afraid of it since his early childhood. He clearly remembered rebellions, revolts and plots that endangered his life. This was one of the main reasons why he did his best to transfer the capital of Russia from Moscow to Saint-Petersburg. Secondly, Moscovites think that this monument is huge and ugly and doesn’t fit Moscow’s layout. If you look at the statue from the quay you will see nothing but Peter the Great. Far away you will notice a tiny church – the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour that seems so unimportant in comparison with the tsar.

The third and the most scandalous reason is that Peter I monument in reality is the statue of Christopher Columbus! Initially Tsereteli created the statue of Columbus that was supposed to be placed in the USA. The mayor of Moscow and he made a gift to the North America but Americans politely refused to accept it. Tsereteli didn’t get upset, and made a brilliant decision: he replaced Columbus head with the Peter’s and placed the new monument by the Moskva river. This caused a huge stir.

Now let’s go to the museum. Right in the central administrative district of Moscow, ten minutes by foot from the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, on Prechistenka, you will find the Gallery of Arts of Zurab Tsereteli. Few artists or sculptures can boast their own museum, but Tsereteli can. One of the most beautiful Moscow private residences of the Classical era holds the collection of his masterpieces. This permanent exposition represents all facets of his art: painting, graphic works, sculptures, enamel plastic art. There are also photos that illustrate his monuments which are placed in different parts of the world.

Tsereteli’s art, supported by the Russian government (especially Moscow), is often criticized by artistic critics and society. He is also reproached for “monopolization” of Moscow monumental projects, for violation of Moscow style, for gigantomania and lack of taste. Nevertheless his sculptures have become the inherent part of the architectural layout of Moscow, and we can’t deny his original style. Tsereteli is an experimentor who managed to combine almost all techniques of figurative art. The uniqueness of his art is multinational, he wants to show how the majority of cultural traditions and religions of different people coexist on the Earth. The fact that his masterpieces leave no one unfazed means that his works deserve special consideration and respect. Is a genius who has made Moscow more beautiful and unique? Or is he an untalented sculptor constantly imposing his sculptures? You must come to Moscow and see for yourself!

Copyright © 2009 by Kozyreva Maria.

Moscow Private Tour: Izmailovo Kremlin and Vodka Museum

If You Go:

Although it is said that Russia is a country of permafrost, it isn’t always true. In summer it’s quite warm (25 C above zero), although there is always room for exceptions. In winter it can be rather cold so if you want to visit Moscow, it’s better to see a weather forecast (www.worldweather.org).

Moscow is an economic and political center of the Russian Federation and is one of the biggest cities in the world. As it is also a business center of the country, the traffic here is rather intense especially in rush hours, so sometimes its more convenient to use metro (news.metro.ru)

There are lots of places in Moscow where you can see Tsereteli’s masterpieces. I would advise you to visit the most popular:
The Cathedral of Christ the Saviour (Kropotkinskaya metro station)
Tsereteli Art Gallery (en.rah.ru)
The Alexander Garden (Okhotny Ryad metro)
Poklonnaya Gora (a bow-down hill)

If you want to learn more about the sculptor you can visit his official site: zurabtsereteli.com

About the author:
Maria Kozyreva is a freelance writer and interpreter working and living in Russia. She is fond of learning foreign languages as she believes that they open the door to the world. She also enjoys traveling and painting. Contact: fleurlaska@hotmail.com

All photos are by Maria Kozyreva.