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Cape Town South Africa

South African Museum

Top Historical Places And Monuments You Can Visit

by William Taylor 

If you are passionate about history and about learning more about other countries’ heritage, your visit to Cape Town will offer you a lot of opportunities to explore the vibrant past of the city. You can either go on an organized tour or create your own itinerary to visit some of the exquisite historical buildings and museums of Cape Town.

The city itself is an open museum, with national parks, mountain tops and scenery that will you breathless. Table Mountain in particular, is Cape Town’s “watcher”. The view of the bustling metropolis is outstanding from the top. As for historical places, avid travelers might want to cross off the following from the list:

1. South African Museum

A good place to start is the South African Museum, which focuses on the anthropological, geological and marine life of the continent. Their collection includes thousands of objects, some of them dating 120.000 years back. You will be able to admire fascinating rock art and stone tools, traditional costumes from centuries ago and objects from the everyday life of the people living here thousands of years ago. The museum also holds animal specimens, like 700-million years insect fossils, whale skeletons and depictions of dinosaurs that once inhabited the South African plains.

2. Bo Kaap

You will be mesmerized at the sight of this neighborhood in Cape Town, as all the houses are brightly colored in contrasting shades of yellow, fuchsia, green, blue and many more, making this area a breathtaking sight and wonderful destination. The romantic cobbled stone streets date back to the 18thcentury, making Bo Kaap one of the oldest residential areas in the South African city. The residents of Bo Kaap are the descendants of slaves that were brought here by the Dutch; after their emancipation in 1795, they formed this community and settled in this incredible place of amazing historical meaning.

3. Castle of Good Hope

castle of good hopeNot only a destination for the history buffs, Castle of Good Hope is a top historical site to explore when visiting Cape Town. This is the oldest surviving building in South Africa and after its restoration in the ‘80s it is considered one of the best preserved examples of DEIC (Dutch East India Company) architecture in the world. Not only the Castle of Good Hope provides an insight on the country’s colonial past, it also hosts numerous art and photography exhibitions for the tourists and locals, being an active cultural site.

4. District Six Museum

District Six is a former residential area of Cape Town that used to be a lively community of former slaves of all ethnicities and races. In 1966, during the apartheid era, the district was declared a whites-only area and more than 60,000 of its inhabitants were forcibly removed, on the counts that it is a crime ridden district that has no chance of improvement. In 1994 the District Six museum came into being, as a reminder of the lively community that once thrived here. The museum has a map of the district depicted on its floor and several formal residents had written notes on the places where they used to live. It’s an emotional experience and it will teach you more the struggling past of this wonderful country.

5. Houses of Parliament

houses of parliamentThis impressive historic building has been the seat of the National Parliament since 1910 and it opens its gates for tourists each year when the Parliament is in session (first part of the year). Be sure to book a visit in advance if you’re traveling from another country and get informed about any closed doors events. You can admire over 4,000 artworks collected by the gallery of the House of Parliament and enjoy a walk around the premises. The guided tours are free of charge and you can also book tours for groups of up to 25 people.

If You Go:

Cape Town is outstanding from all points of view. There are lots of other monuments, museums and places of interest travelers can visit. Most of them reveal valuable information about South Africa’s culture, customs and traditions. Make sure to check out the ones above, and you’ll learn to value the places and the people of the city even more.


Cape Town City Tour: Culture and Community Projects

About the author:
William Taylor is a traveling freak who has traveled many destinations around the world. He also loves writing about his traveling experiences and the places he has explored.

All photos by William Taylor

Tagged With: cape town attractions, south africa travel Filed Under: Africa Travel

Travel South Africa

Giraffe in South Africa

Stretch Your Canadian Dollar

by Theresa (Therri) Papp 

If you want to get the biggest bang for your buck in the declining Canadian dollar consider South Africa. I had been told to bring an empty suitcase and that would be my recommendation to travellers as well. All around, food, drink, clothing and mementos are beyond reasonably priced by Canadian standards while maintaining quality on all accounts that I experienced. If that hasn’t got your attention, then how about seeing animals that we would only see in a zoo just metres away from you. I experienced three weeks in South Africa and will share my experiences and provide some recommendations.

elephantAs you fly into Johannesburg you would expect to see the wild game from the runway. Close to the tarmac is a beautiful view of elephant grass (tall grasses) and native trees that bring memories of photos depicting Africa or the Lion King. I travelled there in August which would be the southern hemisphere winter. Well, if that is winter, it sure does not resemble the Canadian winters. Each day, whether in Johannesburg, Pretoria, Durban, or Capetown all provided an average temperature between 26 to 29C each day and sunshine over my three week adventure. South Africa winter certainly is quite manageable.

While in South Africa (SA) I experienced Sun City, Johannesburg, Pretoria, Durban, Stellenbosch and Capetown. Wherever possible, I always take advantage of the hop on, hop off experience. The price is reasonable and I get a good overview and history of the area. Notable mention would be to do the Johannesburg Soweto combo and gain an understanding of the SA history. Various historic memorials can be seen on the tour not to mention seeing Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tu Tus’ homes. Imagine two Nobel Peace prize winners hailing just blocks from each other and family still live there. If you are interested in history and wine tours to vineyards, Capetown can satisfy those needs. Wine tours are available in Stellenbosch or part of the hop on hop off ticket by selecting the Purple tour with three stop options. All wine tours are for the transportation only and tasting fees are extra.

giraffesMy first experience in SA was a 1.5 hr drive to Sun City. If you have watched the movie Blended you will have seen one of the hotels as the movie was filmed at Sun City Palace and the complex. There are four hotels on the premises ranging up to $8000 per night. Something for everyone, Players golf course, a children’s arcade, spa, casino, and high tea at 3 pm is highly recommended to see the Sun Palace hotel as that is the only access to this posh hotel.

SA is a shopper’s paradise. The SA dollar is the rand and currently our dollar has the buying power of 1 CDN to 10 Rand. For example, an item priced at R100 (100 rand) translates into $10 approximately. There are designer outlets and stores for the elite shoppers and bargains to be found. Woolworths seems to be the most popular chain store in SA along with other shopping meccas to be found. New clothing there is as inexpensive as used clothing at Value Village. Imagine buying new jeans for the equivalent to $15 and tops or pullovers starting at under $10. A very startling experience was the parking. Large malls charge for outdoor parking whereas our shopping malls are free unless underground. The first hour is free. Strip malls have “car guards” that escort you to a parking spot, greet you, and assist you in reversing out of the parking lot. All this service in return for a coin or two at your discretion. Bad parking habits are not tolerated. You are warned upon entering a parkade that if you do not park between the lines your wheels will be locked and you must pay a fine to get your wheels unlocked in addition to the parking fee. You can also get your car washed while you shop as attendants are available in the parkade.

zebrasFood is also a bargain either at the grocery store or at the restaurants. Kentucky Fried Chicken appeared to be the most popular fast food to be found in SA with Macdonald’s a close second. KFC signage is atop the illuminated street names and almost on every street corner similar to Starbucks can be found in Canada. Both KFC and MacDonald’s offer free scooter delivery service for orders. Other restaurants offer bountiful breakfasts that can be found for around $3. Restaurants are also inexpensive offering lunch specials ranging from R57 ($5.70 CDN) which includes a salad and portions that are monstrous. Bottles of wine can start at R110 and up in a restaurant and beer at R25. Evening dinner options can be a full chicken and salad for R90. That would be a feast for a big appetite or a feast and a take home feast for the lighter appetites. Don’t worry if you don’t finish that bottle of wine. You can take it home. Most places appear to be children friendly with play areas and some even have child attendants. Some restaurants offer a complete experience for children to order their own pizza and help the chef make their pizza. Children put on their own toppings while the parents can enjoy a leisurely lunch or dinner.

BuffaloDriving is an experience. Although sidewalks are a rare finding, the large dirt sections next to the road offer opportunities for vendors to set up business and cars can pull off the road to shop; SA people are very enterprising. On most traffic lighted city street corners, men can be found wandering between the lanes selling most anything: Newspapers, toys, pens, crafts, computer gadgets, but I did not see a kitchen sink. Companies and businesses also hire people to advertise at the street light corners to hand out pamphlets. It is always recommended, no matter where you may be in the world, to travel and drive with your doors locked. As anywhere, there are places that you should not venture for safety reasons. Having said that, I did not experience any adverse experiences. In SA taxi services are communal for the locals. Specific hand gestures indicate where you want to travel as the taxi vans travel the streets. People are packed 4 across and 5 deep holding over 20 people per taxi van.

A safari or multiple safaris are a must when traveling to SA. The “Big Five” are the dream citing for anyone visiting SA. The Big Five are the Rhinoceros, Buffalo, Lion, Elephant, and the Leopard that is interchanged with the Cheetah by some. I recommend going with experienced drivers or rangers. There are rules that must be followed for your safety. If you are out with a ranger and follow the rules you will have the most surreal experience of your life! To calm my nervousness, after all these are wild animals and no wild animal should be disrespected or challenged, I heeded the rules. The animals view the jeep as one unit and do not see the numerous people sitting in the open. Do not leave the jeep, no sudden movements, no loud noises, no leaning or extending outside the jeep. The rangers are well trained and know the area well and know the animals. The rhino, buffalo and elephant are not predators but herbivories but can get upset if you enter their space or separate their herd. Once winter sets in on the game reserves, there is no fresh food or greenery to feed the animals and the reserves feed the animals large bails of grasses to sustain them through the winter. At one reserve they were feeding the animals since April. One can only imagine how much an elephant or rhino can eat every day!

Mabalingwe was my first experience in a wild game reserve. This is under two hours from Pretoria. Your first view of a kudu, impala or warthog is exhilarating and you can’t get your camera poised fast enough. After a while the appetite for photographing new wild game gets more and more intriguing. The first 24 hours I had sited and photographed 14 different wild African animals in their natural environment. This included the ostrich, impala, kudu, baboon, warthog, bandit mongoose, giraffe, zebra, hippopotamus, crocodile, hyrax, duiker, hyala, and jackal. Patience is a virtue and wild animals do not pose or come out from behind the brushes. They do, however, need water and that is a good place to see many different animals. The best time of the day to find animals is the early morning and closer to the end of the day. Even in winter, midday is too warm for the animals and they siesta until closer to the end of day. Our morning safari were as early as 6 am and the sunset safari started at 3 pm as it becomes dark around 6 pm.

The next safari experience was at Tshukudu. This was a phenomenal experience. This is a family run private game reserve that borders Kruger National Park and was started in 1980. Other people that have opted for the “do-it-yourself” drive through Kruger reported not much success of spotting all or any of the “Big Five” and some reported far distance viewing. This lodge offers nearly all-inclusive accommodations and an experience of a lifetime. There is no “roughing” it at the lodge, but camping experiences are available. The rooms are a generous size and mine had a deck to enjoy the outdoor experience along with a refreshment and a view that would include wild animals virtually at your back door. Also included was a hearty breakfast buffet with many choices and diversity each day, lunch buffet, high tea before the sunset drive, and an evening dinner buffet. Each day included a morning drive and walk as well as a sunset drive. That is a lot of value in my opinion for top rate service! I paid $200 CDN per night which included a single supplement. Shared double occupancy room for two was around $300 per night. Prices may vary due to season and other factors as it does everywhere. Four meals, two drives and complimentary wi-fi – what more could you ask for? You are allowed to bring your own wine to dinner or you can purchase your choices from the bar. Yes, I also saw all the Big Five within 24 hours of arriving. Three of them were seen from the deck within the first few hours of arriving while enjoying a refreshment and the animals were just metres away! Imagine buffalo walking by your cabin followed by two rhino walking off into the sunset. The elephant walked by when it was dark but the lights illuminated the animals. A photographer’s dream come true.

I am returning to Canada with the most amazing memories, spectacular photographs to capture those memories and treasures to share of my experiences that will last me a lifetime. I had been warned and arrived with uncertainty about the safety of South Africa. My experiences can only say that there are unsettling and unsafe places in any town or city and travelers always need to exercise caution. My travels to SA has been an experience of a lifetime.

If You Go:

♦ I typically plan to travel well in advance (approximately a year) and take full advantage of Aeroplan points or Air Miles. That certainly cuts down on expenses.

♦ I always travel with an additional folding bag in my luggage, just in case I find some real bargains.

♦ There are no entry or exit requirements for Canadian travellers. A passport that is valid 30 days after departure is a typical requirement for any country that you visit outside of Canada.

♦ I did not get any additional vaccinations or boosters to routine vaccinations. Most travellers should have a hepatitis A/B vaccine and you may consider a Yellow

♦ Fever vaccination is you plan to venture to other parts of Africa. Check with your health professional before you leave for their recommendations.

♦ These are the websites of the places that I visited:

– Sun City South Africa

– Tshukudu Game Lodge

– Mabalingwe Nature Reserve

– City Sightseeing Cape Town (Save your ticket stubs from the City Sightseeing tours and you will get a discount on your next booked tour.)


South Africa 14-Day Tour from Johannesburg

 

About the author:
Therri is an educator, researcher, photographer and writer that enjoys travelling with or without a travel companion. She is a Ph.D. candidate and has contributed articles to newspapers, journals and books. Therri lives in Saskatoon, SK and awaits her next travel adventure.

Photo Credits:
Giraffe by Kelly Arnold on Unsplash
All other photos taken by Theresa (Therri) Papp

 

Tagged With: south africa travel Filed Under: Africa Travel

South Africa’s Mother City, The Fairest Cape Of All

Camp's Bay Cape Town South Africa

Cape Town, South Africa

by Lynn Smith

Ask any South African which is the most beautiful city in South Africa and the answer will invariably be “Cape Town “– and with good reason. This is the city where I lived for some years and when I visit it again, I realise just how much I have missed its vibrancy. Lying beneath the shadow of the iconic Table Mountain, the city sweeps down to the Atlantic Ocean. The city has, in its four-hundred year-old history, been known by many names, including “the Fairest Cape in the entire circumference of the earth”; the “Cape of Storms”, the “Cape of Good Hope” and to many embattled and weary sailors, it was known as the “Tavern of the Seas.” To South Africans, however, Cape Town is affectionately referred to as the “Mother City” and it is the city which ex-pats dream about and return to, again and again.

The founding of the city

Cape Town was founded as a supply station in 1652, by the Dutch East India Company, under the command of Jan van Riebeeck. The company erected a fort, planted vegetable gardens, employed the indigenous people and imported Muslim slaves from Java (whose descendants are known as Cape Malays), as well as slaves from Madagascar. In time, more Dutch citizens settled in the area and soon the tiny settlement grew into a town.

In 1688, the French Huguenots, fleeing from religious persecution in France, settled in the hinterland and soon German settlers followed. In 1795 and again in 1806, the Cape came under British rule.

This brief outline of the city’s history serves to show the different nationalities, races and creeds which have populated the Cape and which, over years of integration, have contributed to Cape Town’s present varied and vibrant culture.

What to see in the city centre

houses of Parliament Cape TownCape Town, as the Mother City, is South Africa’s seat of parliament and the impressive Houses of Parliament are situated in Government Avenue. This oak tree-lined walkway was originally part of the Dutch East India Company’s Market Gardens and several notable buildings now line its tranquil path; these include the South African Planetarium and Museum, the South African Library, the Great Synagogue and Jewish Museum and the South African National Gallery.

The Castle: The Castle was built in 1666 and was both the Dutch East India Company’s governor’s residence and a fortress, and is still a working barracks today. The Castle is pentagonal in shape and the five points were named after the main titles of Wilhelm, Prince of Orange. The Castle’s thick stone walls now house three fine museums.

Grand Parade Cape TownThe Grand Parade: Originally a military parade ground, the Grand Parade is now the city’s oldest market place. Markets are held every Wednesday and Saturday mornings and just about everything and anything is sold here, including fruit, flowers, vegetables, fast food and traditional Cape Malay delicacies.

Green Market Square: This pleasant cobbled square is one of Cape Town’s great tourist attractions. It began in 1710 as a farmers’ market but now the square is a hive of daily activity, with hundreds of stalls selling traditional crafts, curios, clothing, books and jewellery. To rest their weary feet, tourists can refresh themselves at the many cafes and eateries and watch the passing parade go by.

District Six Museum: This small but poignant museum is dedicated to the recording of the daily lives of the people of District Six, who were forcefully removed from their homes in the 1960s and 70s. District Six was an area lying to the east of the Castle, where, for decades, people of all races, colours and nationalities had lived in harmony. In 1966, when the area was declared a “Whites only” area, under the Group Areas Act, some 150,000 people were relocated to the Cape Flats and other desolate areas several miles away from the city centre.

Interesting streets

Church Street: This is a pedestrian mall, lined with old Victorian buildings whose wrought-iron balconies shade the sidewalks packed with antique bric-a-brac. Many a bargain can be picked up, after some clever haggling.

Long Street: This 300 year-old street showcases buildings which are a hotch-potch of architectural styles – Victorian, Art Nouveau, Georgian and Cape Malay styles, all rub shoulders with each other. These delightful old edifices accommodate pubs and book shops, as well as the famous Long Street Baths, comprising a swimming pool, steam rooms and Turkish baths.

Wale Street: Here one finds St George’s Mall, a pedestrian area lined with shops and bistros, where buskers, musicians, traditional dancers and vendors all ply their various talents. The Stuffaford’s Town Square is a shopper’s paradise, with modern retail stores comparable to any of those found in Europe’s fashionable capitals. At the top of the Mall, is St George’s Anglican Cathedral, a Gothic masterpiece, designed by Sir Herbert Baker in 1897.

Adderley Street: Adderley Street is Cape Town’s main street and CBD. The street has a fine statue of Vasco da Gama who sailed past the Cape peninsula on his way to India in 1488.

Table Mountain

Table MountainA visit to Cape Town would not be complete without a visit to Table Mountain. This landmark is 1082 metres high and from the central plateau (the table top) fantastic views extend for miles in all directions. The mountain top can be reached by walking, climbing or by cable car – the cable car, however, does not operate in inclement weather.

The Victoria and Albert Waterfront

The Victoria and Albert Waterfront is a series of converted warehouses which comprise cinemas, restaurants, upmarket shopping stores and all-night bars and party venues. There is also an amphitheatre which hosts a variety of popular entertainers.

The Pier Head area contains the Victoria museum ship – a replica of an old-time sailing vessel; for children, the Market Square has a traditional carousel and from the Waterfront, one can also take a pleasure cruise around Table Bay.

Robben Island

A 45 minute sea-trip takes one to Robben Island, where political prisoners were held, the most famous of whom was Nelson Mandela, who spent 28 years on the island. Tours are available round the island where Mandela’s prison cell, the lime quarries, the lighthouse, the WWII bunkers and the Garrison church can be visited. The island is a national heritage site and much is being done to protect its natural flora and fauna.

Other sights

Rhodes Memorial: Cecil John Rhodes was a key figure in South Africa in the late 19th century – his elaborate, colonnaded memorial is set on the slopes of Table Mountain.

Kirstenbosch: The National Botanical Gardens at Kirstenbosch are known throughout the world for their incredible variety of plants. Several trails through the gardens lead up the slopes of Table Mountain and during summer months, open-air recitals are held amidst the colourful plants and well-tended lawns.

Beaches

Cape Town has a plethora of beaches which stretch right round the peninsula. The most popular ones nearest to the city are the trendy beaches on the Atlantic seaboard side. These are:

Sea Point, with its promenade and several tidal pools, including a mens-only nudist pool.

Clifton Beach and Bantry Bay Beaches – two glamourous beaches overlooked by Cape Town’s two most desirable residential areas, built on the steep mountain side. This piece of coastline, with its exceptional and expensive real estate, is known as millionaire’s mile.

Nightlife

Pubs, bars and nightclubs, catering for all tastes, are plentiful and scattered throughout the city and its surrounds. There are British and Irish pubs as well as the local shebeens.

Theatres and Music

Cape Town has four theatres which regularly put on a variety of productions. All types of music tastes are catered for – classical, jazz, traditional and rock. Concerts are well-attended and one is well-advised to book.

Food

Cape Town is famous for its seafood and the best seafood restaurants are located along the beachfront and at the Waterfront, where traditional Cape Malay and African dishes can also be experienced.

Several upmarket restaurants in the city centre pride themselves on their fine dining menus. There are also numerous popular fast food, chain and franchise outlets, as well as Chinese, Italian and other national-type eateries to choose from.

Annual events

Some of the most popular yearly events are:

The J & B Metropolitan Handicap: The prestigious horse race held at Kenilworth race course.

The Two Oceans Marathon: The marathon race round the peninsula which attracts athletes from all over the world.

The Cape Argus Cycle Tour: A gruelling cycle race round the peninsula.

The Rothman’s Week Yacht Race: A week-long yacht race round Table Bay, with yachts from all over the world competing.

The Cape Town International Jazz Festival: This is the largest jazz festival in Africa and last year it attracted a crowd of some 34,000 concert-goers. The jazz festival is renowned throughout the world and many of the most famous jazz artists have showcased their talents here.

Cape Town has so much to offer – beautiful scenery, pristine beaches, fine food and wines, interesting events – but most of all, it is its colourful and varied population which gives the city its vibrant and interesting culture.

It is hardly surprising, therefore, that Cape Town was voted the best tourist destination in 2014, both by Britain’s “The Guardian” newspaper and America’s “The New York Times.”


Private Tour: Cape Town City and Table Mountain from Cape Town

If You Go:

♦ There are local and international flights daily to and from Cape Town. The city is also an important port of call for many of the cruise ships plying the Indian Ocean route. Car hire is available from the airport and harbour terminal.

♦ Getting around the city: The city is best explored on foot. There are guided walking tours but a good map is all that one really needs. There is a good central bus service and numerous taxis and car hire firms. An excellent train service runs to all the suburban stations.

♦ Be prepared to walk –take suntan lotion with you, as the sun can be quite fierce. Don’t forget to take your camera – Cape Town is one of the most photogenic places in the world!

♦ The best time to visit is from November to April, which are Cape Town’s summer months and the height of the tourist season. Winter months (May – October) are often very wet and cold.

♦ Accommodation is available to suit all pockets. The city centre can be expensive, but the nearby suburbs offer reasonable rates.


Full-Day Wildlife Safari, Craft Beer and Wine Tasting Tour from Cape Town

 

About the author:
Lynn is a retired librarian who lives in Durban, South Africa. She lived in London for some time many years ago and has returned to visit several times in the past few years. Her last visits overseas were to Eastern Europe where she fell in love with Prague and Budapest. When not travelling, Lynn enjoys writing articles for the internet and does freelance editing and proof-reading. She is a keen gardener and shares her home with her six beloved cats.

Photo credits:
Camps Bay Cape Town by Jaman Asad on Unsplash
Houses of Parliament by I, PhilippN / CC BY-SA
Grand Parade by yeowatzup from Göttingen, Germany / CC BY
Table Mountain by Ulrike Mai from Pixabay

Tagged With: cape town attractions, south africa travel Filed Under: Africa Travel

Living Mandela’s Street

Directional sign for Mandela house

Soweto, South Africa

by Ray Mwareya

This is one of South Africa’s most famous streets – the only one in the world to have housed two Nobel Prize winners (Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu) – and it has long been a must-see tourist attraction.

Every tour to Soweto – Africa’s biggest township – stops at Vilakazi Street. There is a famous reason why.

First Vilakazi Street and it is not your typical ordinary street. The Vilakazi Street precinct is now a fully visitor-friendly location, with public art, museums, daily carnivals memorials and benches all picking out its historical sites. Following a major makeover in 2014, visitors to South Africa’s most famous street can now experience it as a place to stroll, to sit on one of numerous concrete benches or seats, to enjoy the newly planted trees, and to admire the new artworks. “The development vision for the future of Vilakazi Street is to make it a thriving destination based on its anti-apartheid struggle history, township heritage, vibrant spirit and distinctive ‘sense of place,'” Trinity Session, the agency that worked with the local community to help create the artworks, said in a recent statement.

youth playing on streetThe project was overseen by the South Africa Development Agency. “The community is very happy with the result,” says Thanduxolo Ntoyi, an assistant development manager at the agency. The community was “very involved” with the street and its transformation from the beginning.

The heart of Vilakazi street is its precinct. The Vilakazi Street precinct is about one kilometre long, and built in the shape of a triangle. In its boundaries are the original, unimaginative apartheid-era rectangular houses, next to homes that have been renovated, with the uniform tall walls characteristic of South Africa’s posh suburbs.

At number 8115 is the street’s main attraction – Mandela House, now a museum. The simple three-bedroom home has been restored to what it looked like in 1946, when Nelson Mandela – Nobel Prize winner and anti apartheid hero – moved in with his first wife, Evelyn Mase. In 1958, he brought his second wife, Winnie, to live in the house with him. He returned briefly to live in the house on his release from prison in February 1990.

Two Nobel laureates:

Mandela's family restaurantOutside the house stands a large metal outline of two bull heads, entitled The Nobel Laureates. The title refers to the fact that on the corner of Vilakazi and Ngakane Streets, a short distance away, is the Soweto home of the Anglican Archbishop Emeritus Desmond Tutu, who, like Mandela, was the recipient of a Nobel Peace Prize. The bulls look down the road, decisive and eye-catching, leaving no doubt as to the strength of the two personalities they represent. Around the corner in Moema Street is another metal depiction, this time of schoolchildren facing a policeman with a growling dog. It’s a reference to the confrontation on 16 June 1976 when hundreds of black school children were protesting the imposition of European Afrikaans in schools, when they were met by the brutality of the colonial police.

At this point the police opened fire, and the student leader Hector Pieterson was shot and killed. Iconic photographs of the dying Pieterson being carried to the nearby Phefeni Clinic by Mbuyisa Makhubo went around the world. This jolted the United Nations and many countries around the world to impose trade and financial embargoes on the apartheid against the South African government. That day is remembered for its brutality against schoolchildren, and the start of the meltdown of apartheid. Pieterson, the other children and the subsequent riots are remembered in the Hector Pieterson Memorial and Museum two blocks down Moema Street, on the corner with Khumalo Street. Today this museum is a work full of energy and defiance; the silhouetted figures in metal piping showing raised fists and wide mouths shouting at the policeman restraining his dog. On the corner of Moema and Vilakazi streets is a memorial wall in slate, now a quiet place to sit and contemplate the events of all those years ago, when the country exploded in anger and revolt.

Vilakazi’ in sign language:

local drummersAt the start of Vilakazi Street, where it intersects with Khumalo Street, is another magnificent artwork. Eight huge, grey hands spell “Vilakazi” in sign language. The hands are big and bold, but accessible to residents – they have become play objects, with children taking time out to climb on them. Other art includes two murals – one depicts the scene of June 1976, with police and their vans, and placard-carrying schoolchildren. And then there are the mosaics, livening up several concrete benches on the corner of Moema Street; down Vilakazi Street are mosaic strips of paving. On the corner of Vilakazi and Ngakane streets is a row of bollards with decorative wooden heads. Vilakazi Street is indeed a different place.

Hastings Ndlovu’s bridge:

Hector Pieterson MemorialThis is another landmark that enriches Vilakazi Street. This memorial has been completed, and it remembers the 15-year-old boy who was the first to be shot on 16 June 1976 riots against the white apartheid government. On the corner of Klipspruit Valley and Khumalo roads is a bridge where Hastings Ndlovu was shot by the police. He was rushed to Chris Hani Baragwanath Hospital – one of the world’s biggest hospitals- where he died of the head wound.

On the bridge there is a statue of the young Hastings, dressed in school uniform and standing on a plinth, smiling and holding his arm up. Storyboards line each side of the bridge, on the sides of a new steel and concrete structure, with seating, inviting visitors to walk down and take in the quiet memorial next to the busy intersection.

Vilakazi for all its glamour is a tourist magnet today. “15,200 foreign visitors came to see this street in 2014 alone. 45% of them came from North America. Most were interested in seeing Nelson Mandela’s original house” says Bat Moloi – the chief marketing officer for Johannesburg Town Municipality.

So, take a drive out to Soweto township, park your car opposite the hands, and stroll up Vilakazi Street, reading the storyboards along the way. And when you’re done, grab something to drink or a meal at Sakumzi, opposite Mandela House, or at the top of the hill at Nambitha. And then drive your car to another parking area on the corner of Moema and Khumalo streets, and cross the road. Take in the messages of the Hector Pieterson Memorial; then walk around the museum next door. Feel the anger, the hatred for the apartheid government, the alienation of young people. Dodge the bullets with them, through the graphic images on display; empathise with the parents who lost their children on 16 June 1976. It’s all part of the Vilakazi Street.


PRIVATE Tour of Soweto & Apartheid Museum & Lunch

If You Go:

How to Get There:

All major world airlines fly to Johannesburg every day. From there you can take a taxi to Soweto township – Africa’s biggest township. There Vilakazi Street looms in the middle of the township. (www.sa-venues.com/attractionsga/vilakazi-street.htm)

What to do there:

Street barbecue, rock in roll festivals, street race courses and a famous wine taste festival awaits you in Soweto township. It’s advisable to tour Vilakazi street during the daylight as pick pockets can take advantage of the darkness.(www.tripadvisor.co.za/Attractions-g312587-Activities-Soweto_Greater_Johannesburg_Gauteng.html)

About the author:
Ray Mwareya is a news correspondent for the Global South Development Magazine.

All photos are by Ray Mwareya.

Tagged With: south africa travel, Soweto attractions Filed Under: Africa Travel

Durban: A Slice of Africa

Durban harbour with boats and palm trees

South Africa

by Julie H. Ferguson

The city of Durban on the north-west coast of South Africa does not feature in most travelers’ plans. It is steamy in summer, allegedly unsafe, a bit dirty, and the beach strip is rowdy. So why go? To experience the “real” urban South Africa and enjoy value for money. Good highways, an excellent game reserve close-by, and warm hospitality are other draws.

dried fish at Durban street marketDurban throbs with the rhythms of Black Africa that are not as accessible on the typical tourist track. The aromas wafting from stalls and cafés are unidentifiable, but worth exploring. Street vendors sell everything from beadwork to biltong (spicy, dried meat). The African taxis, actually ten-passenger vans, clog the city streets hawking for business and owning the road. Women carry grocery bags on their heads and kids on their backs. It’s high energy here and crowded.

Durban is price-friendly: a bottle of Heineken costs 13 Rand (Cdn $1.86), and the ubiquitous bed and breakfasts average about R300 to R400 per night ($48-$57), even in high season, and are clean and welcoming. The Indian Ocean boasts good surf on white sand beaches and a water temperature of 25C but, best of all, Durban is an easy drive in a rental car to one of the best safari parks. Hluhluwe-Imfolozi is cheaper, but no less comfortable than the famous and bigger Kruger National Park. You can see the Big Five here – lion, leopard, elephant, rhino, and Cape Buffalo – and it’s malaria-free.

Instead of staying in a western-style hotel on the beach or in central Durban, I choose to overlook the yacht basin in a hotel that is a Black empowerment project. Durban Manor’s faded grandeur acts as a time warp. Built as a Victorian gentlemen’s club in the 1890s, its twenty-foot ornate ceilings, massive furniture the size of rhinos, and threadbare carpets over marble floors are more British than Britain ever was. An ancient cage elevator is original. The hotel’s hearty breakfasts are straight out of a Victorian country house – silver chafing dishes filled with kidneys, kippers, and kedgeree on a vast buffet; however, dinner is the worst of 1950s British food. The Manor’s rooms are large, clean, and air-conditioned, if shabby. In tropical downpours, buckets catch leaks in the public rooms and bath towels sop up the rain pouring in around closed windows. I quickly appreciate Durban Manor’s eccentricities, price, and location, as well as a hotel staff who face their challenges with a cheerful shrug.

colorful souvenirs in Durban shopOn day three, I take a city tour recommended by locals. Richard Powell and his Zulu assistant, Sthembiso, of Street Scene Tours treat me to a five-hour tour that costs under $40.00 including lunch. This is not your average tour, but an experience that exposes the beat of African Durban. The pair work as a tag team: Richard explains the city’s layout and history as we pass the colonial landmarks, and Sthembiso describes the African outlook and way of life as we meander through the Zulu markets and Muslim arcades.

We walk as much as we drive, which makes the experience better than most city tours and ensures good photography. The highlight is my visit to Warwick Triangle – the tangle of markets where Africans shop. Everything is for sale here – food, folkloric remedies, ceremonial items, electronics, and aphrodisiacs. This is not an area in which to walk alone or take photos freely due to illegal items on sale and some African’s fear of cameras, but I feel completely safe with my guides. I pass monkey carcasses and goats’ heads on sale in the Muti (meat) Market, balls of white and red clay used for body decoration, dyed horsehair for weaving, and all manner of plants and tree parts for traditional healers spread out in the Herb Market.

In the narrow, winding arcades nearby, I see brilliantly coloured skirts for Zulu virgins to wear at initiations, beads and weapons for young warriors, and vast quantities of housewares available to purchase for lobola or “bride-price.” Sticky and tired after wandering here for a couple of hours, Richard whisks me off for lunch in a Gujarati cafe.

curry sandwich at Royal Durban Golf ClubSince Durban was settled, the large East Indian population has offered its traditional dishes all over the city. Their most famous is Bunny Chow. The Indians who caddied at the Royal Durban Golf Club never had time to stop for lunch, so Mr. Bunny created a unique curry sandwich they could munch on the go. He scooped out the centre of half a loaf, filled the hole with a spicy curry, and stuffed the bread back on top. I eat mine with my fingers, mopping up the hot sauce with pieces of bread and loving it.

Richard describes his tours as “Alternative” and, if his others are like today’s, they will be worthwhile. I’m sorry to miss the Township Tour but I leave tomorrow for my first safari. The Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Game Reserve is the oldest park in South Africa (est.1895) and once the hunting grounds of Zulu kings who later introduced the first conservation laws. Its name is pronounced “sh-shluey,” preferably with a spit! When a family of warthogs greet me and my travel companions at the park gate, our excitement surges. We wind up and down hills on the seven-mile road to Hilltop and encounter zebra, Cape Buffalo, and a tree full of squabbling weaver birds. Here regulations forbid visitors to leave their vehicles for any reason.

giraffes seen on game driveThe thatched Hilltop Lodge overlooks a wide valley and is blessed with all the amenities of an excellent hotel, including delicious breakfast and dinner buffets. As I push open the door of our roomy cottage, my first sight is a warning about marauding baboons – the robust grills over our windows speak volumes. Harmless Vervet monkeys gambol all around us.

Game drives set out at dawn and dusk, so our meals have to fit around them. It makes for long days, late dinners, and short nights. A nap in the heat of the day while the animals sleep is mandatory if we want to survive; so are insect repellent, sunscreen, snacks, and water.

At 5:00pm, armed with my camera, a long lens, and binoculars, I scramble onto a high seat in the back of a 10-passenger Land Rover. The canvas roof shields the sun, but otherwise it is an open vehicle that delivers excellent viewing above tall grasses and shrubs. We drive along winding, rust-red trails over hills covered with lush vegetation and through treed valleys with rushing streams.

Rhino herd viewed on game driveAbruptly the park ranger stops and points out a couple of Nyala (antelope) on a distant slope. Even with binoculars I can barely see them – is this as close as we will get to the game? Then over the next rise, a Black Rhino grazes not 50 feet away. We turn another corner and nearly run into a giraffe. After that, the game appears thick, fast, and close until the sun sets. But the best comes after dark, when we disturb a lion lying in the middle of the trail. He hightails into the bush but stops ten feet away and, with the aid of a spotlight, I can count his teeth when he yawns.

Over the next two days, the safari never stops thrilling – at dawn, seven White Rhino on a hilltop and two cuddling in a wallow, an elegant male Impala with his harem in a sun-dappled glade, five giraffe loping along ahead of us, owls and vultures peering from trees, a crocodile half-submerged in a stream, huge herds of jet-black Cape Buffalo, and one Spotted Hyena scavenging a lion kill.

We quickly learn where and how to spot game, and use our rental car to do a game drive through the southern section of the reserve before returning to Durban. We never see leopard or elephant in Hluhluwe, but the latter are to come in vast numbers – another two weeks of South African adventures lie ahead.

© Julie H. Ferguson 2011


Hluhluwe Imfolozi Game Reserve Day Tour from Durban

If You Go:

KwaZulu-Natal Tourism Authority: www.durban.kzn.org.za
Durban Manor: www.durbanmanorhotel.com
Street Scene Tours with Richard Powell: www.streetscenetours.co.za
Hluhluwe- Imfolozi Game Reserve: www.sa-venues.com and www.kznparks.com
Amatikulu Tours: our package at Hilltop (Hluhluwe), which included two nights in a comfortable two-bedroom cottage, delicious breakfasts and dinners in the main lodge, and two game drives, cost Cdn $410.00 per person. (Additional drives – $42.00 each.) The baboons and vervet monkeys are free. For those who don’t wish to rent a car, packages are also available with transport from Durban. www.amatikulu.com
Car rental: Europcar from the airport or central Durban– www.europcar.com
Bed and Breakfasts and guesthouses in South Africa: www.bedandbreakfast.com

 

About the author:
Julie H. Ferguson is an addicted traveller, a serious photographer, and the author of 17 books, four of which are about Canadian history. She invites you to visit www.beaconlit.com and www.flickr.com/photos/beaconlit.

All photos are © Julie Ferguson 2011.

Tagged With: Durban attractions, south africa travel Filed Under: Africa Travel

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