by Brian K. Smith

The historic ancient capital of Xi’an in the centre of China is where the first emperor of China rose to power. Tourists from all over the globe come here to see the Terra-cotta warriors – dug up from a massive tomb that is an active archeology site. It is also the terminus for the famous Silk Road that was a trade route from China to the Mediterranean Sea, when a camel or horse was the everyday method of transportation.

In modern times part of that history still lives on Xi’an. Over the last decade the ancient city wall has been restored back to its splendor of over 600 years ago. Within the city walls lives a large population of Muslim descendants of the Silk Road days of trade. Along with their unique customs also comes their unique food.

In the Muslim quarter of Xi’an there are countless vendors selling BBQ meat, hand made noodles, and many dishes that use mutton or beef with eastern spices as the base. Fortunately their food spreads out across the city in the form of restaurants and kiosk. In the neighborhood near my hotel just a few blocks of walking took me to an amazing Muslim restaurant where the Chef serves a dish called du wah (pita bread soaked in lamb soup). It reminded me of poutine from our French heritage in Canada.

There is something about comfort food that is immediately recognizable – and this dish hit the spot. Made from pita bread, sweet potato noodles, mutton, and broth – rich with flavour and creamy in texture, it instantly makes you feel cozy and warm. Add some pickled garlic and pepper to your taste. The dish goes back to the days of the West Market at the terminus of the Silk Road. Hungry and exhausted traders arriving after months of travel could enjoy this dish in celebration of a long journey’s completion. Today a short bus ride from anywhere within the city walls will deliver you to this treat of the past. Add a local beer as your companion to this dish to complete the experience.

One Day Private Walking Tour in the Old City Area of Xi an

If You Go:

The restaurant is on No.38 Jian Guo Road, Xi’an, Tel:15029052923. Take No.43 or 45 or No. 612 or 300 bus from Drum Tower. Get off at Da Chai Shi bus station, go right till the first crossing, turn right on Jian Guo Road, go straight about two blocks. It is on your right.

Getting there by Air:
Beijing to Xi’an – There are more than 21 return flights a day served by such popular carriers such Air China, China Eastern Airlines, Shanghai Airlines, China Southern Airlines, Sichuan Airlines and Hainan Airlines. The length of flight is approximately two hours.
Shanghai to Xi’an – Served by Air China, China Eastern Airlines, Shanghai Airlines, China Southern Airlines, Sichuan Airlines and Hainan Airlines. More than 18 return flights a day, and its length is approximately 2 hours and 20 minutes.

By Rail:
Beijing to Xi’an – HST (High Speed Train) from Beijing West Railway Station 4 hr 40 min. Ten each direction per day. Arrives at Xi’an North Railway Station
Shanghai – Xi’an – Only regular train travel to Xi’an Railway Station: No. 151, Huancheng Road, Xincheng District, Xi’an, Shaanxi 710005, China.

About the author:
Brian Smith has traveled to more than 41 countries around the world. His favorite destination in the last seven years has been Asia with seven trips to China, including Tibet. He is a seasoned adventurer and is co founder of Adventurocity with his business partner Rick Green. Their motto is ” Why take a trip when you can have an adventure”. www.adventurocity.com. Brian is a career professional photographer, with a Masters of Photographic Arts (PPOC). Twitter: @fotocraze

Photo credits:
All photos are by Brian K. Smith:
West Gate Plaza – Xi’an China
Restaurant entrance
Du Wah (Pita bread soaked in Lamb Soup)

by Keith Kellett 

One day, in 1974, a group of Chinese farmers near the city of Xi’an set out to dig a well. What they found was to become world famous, and some of their finds would tour the major cities, for as many people as possible to see.

Instead of water, they came face to face with a soldier. Not a miniature soldier, but a life-sized models, in terracotta. And, there were more. The size of the models varied with the status of the soldier being modeled; the officer was always taller than the foot-soldier, and the Generals were tallest of all.

Pottery has, of course, been known about since prehistory, and one of its earliest forms was earthenware, or terracotta.

These particular models date back to about 220 BC, and are believed to have been placed there to guard the first Emperor of China, Qin Shi Huang in the after-life, in a similar way to the ushbati figurines of ancient Egypt.

This was quite a common practice in China. The tomb of Lady Fu Hao, the influential wife of the petty king Wu Ding, who had died a thousand years before, was found to contain skeletons … believed to be servants who had been executed, so they could continue to serve the lady in the afterlife.

Emperor Qin’s tomb is only a couple of kilometres away from the soldiers, and occasional random artifacts had always been found in the area. But, the tomb has never been excavated.

When archaeologists investigated the site where the soldiers had been found, they were astonished at what they discovered.

There was much more than the few figures that the farmers found. Here was rank upon rank of model soldiers, each one different; it was believed that actual soldiers had acted as models for each piece. If this was the case, their facial characteristics, and differences in their dress and equipment show from what a large area the soldiers were recruited. There were archers, cavalrymen, charioteers and foot-soldiers. Most of them held real weapons; some of these still exist, but many of these have either decayed over time, or been looted in the past.

Originally, the figures were brightly painted, but this has faded almost to nothing over the ages. It’s believed there are many more still to be discovered; some estimates put the total figure at over 8000. But any further excavation has been put on hold, for it’s thought that any still to be discovered figures may have retained their original colours, so they’re waiting until such time as a method of fixing those colours can be devised.

Most of the soldiers are still in their original positions, ranged in their files in the three pits which have been excavated so far. Some, though, have toured the world, visiting such places as London, Toronto, San Francisco and Sydney. They proved so popular that, when they were exhibited at the British Museum in 2008, the Museum had to remain open until midnight to accommodate everyone who wanted to see them.

The public aren’t allowed into the pits themselves. That’s a privilege normally reserved only for trained archaeologists and visiting Heads of State. There’s a balcony around each pit, though, from which they can be viewed. But, if you want some close-up images, there’s a gallery within the museum in which some selected figures are displayed in glass cases … most spectacular of which is the bronze chariot, provided to convey the Emperor in the afterlife.

Better still, there are more examples in the Shaanxi Museum, in Xi’an. We took many shots here, for we had heard that photography was forbidden around the pits themselves. We subsequently found that was wrong, although use of flash is not allowed. But, people appeared not to be taking a great deal of notice of that!

Xian Terracotta Warriors and VIP Access to Tang Dynasty Murals Private Tour

If You Go:

♦ There is an airport at Xi’an which serves most Chinese cities, as well as a limited number of overseas destinations. Most travelers will probably arrive at Beijing or Shanghai, and connect to a domestic flight from there.

♦ From these cities, it is also possible to get to Xi’an by long-distance bus or rail. Typical journey times are 14 hours from Beijing on a standard train; five hours on a ‘bullet train’. From Shanghai, the times are given as 18 hours and 11 hours.

♦ Special tourist buses operate to most of the attractions around the city. These are available to independent travelers as well as organised groups. Local people use them, too. The but for the Terracotta Warriors is Line 5, which leaves frequently from the square to the east of the railway station.

Skip-The-Line One Day Small-Group Terracotta Army Discovery Trip

About the author:
Having written as a hobby for many years while serving in the Royal Air Force, Keith Kellett saw no reason to discontinue his hobby when he retired. With time on his hands, he produced more work, and found, to his surprise, it ‘grew and grew’ and was good enough to finance his other hobbies; traveling, photography and computers. He is trying hard to prevent it from becoming a full-time job! He has published in many UK and overseas print magazines, and on the Web. He is presently trying to get his head around blogging, podcasting and video. keith-kellett@tinyworld.co.uk

All photos are by Keith Kellett.

by Chris Millikan

When touring China’s legendary sights with twenty other enthusiasts, my husband Rick and I encounter unimaginable marvels in and around Xian, the early capital where Emperors ruled for over 3,000 years.

Two memorable days begin high atop the ramparts of this ancient city’s wall, one of the few remaining in China. On our way to the north gate, our energetic guide Hanson points, “That Bell Tower is from the 14th-century; its huge bell once signaled sunrise every morning. Over there to the west, that evening Drum Tower would sound day’s end.”

Along some of the nine impressive miles encircling the city, we stroll above the old moat; others ride bicycles or jog. Built over 600 years ago for both protection and food storage, formidable watchtowers solidly anchor each corner; smaller defensive towers dot the top at intervals. Fluttering crimson flags and lanterns punctuate the stark gray structure.

We next arrive at the Great Wild Goose Pagoda, a religious complex built about 652,AD on the city’s southern edge. Silver morning mists shroud its peaceful manicured gardens as Hanson regales us with this sanctuary’s legend, “During a severe famine, Buddha miraculously provided flocks of wild geese to feed starving worshipers…” Over 300 Buddhist monks were once housed in 2000 little rooms here; nowadays, forty live here.

Pausing, we light slender red candles and bundles of incense-sticks to send silent wishes and prayers to loved ones back home. Entering the soaring seven-story pagoda protecting Buddhist scriptures, our guide explains, “Renowned traveling monk Xuan Zang brought these sacred writings from India along the ancient Silk Road…and translated them into these 1335 volumes kept in these glass cabinets.”

Lively afternoon markets in the Muslim quarter and a surprising stop at the Great Mosque intrigues everyone further. Infusing us with even more history, Hanson explains, “This mosque was founded in 742 as a religious center for Arab merchants…and today it serves over 60,000 Chinese Muslims! When Kublai Khan expanded westward in the 13th century, large numbers of Muslim soldiers and artisans resettled here in China.” Except for the intricate gold Arabic lettering, the beautiful wooden building looks entirely Chinese, with a two-story pagoda replacing typical domes and minarets.

Just when we thought it couldn’t get any more captivating we arrive at Xian’s Grand Opera House, a huge dinner theatre. Soon, white-clad servers deliver basket-after-steaming-basket of tiny, mouthwatering dumplings. Wielding our chopsticks enthusiastically and washing each luscious tidbit down with cold Chinese beer, we ooh and ahh delightedly over these intricate handmade creations, decorative tops signifying each filling: duck, broccoli, pumpkin, but the most electrifying experience was yet to come…

Heavy velvet curtains open dramatically, revealing an opulent royal court complete with Emperor, bejeweled costumes with elaborate headdresses and ancient stringed instruments. Swirling colours, haunting music and elegant dances quickly transport us into the grace and beauty of China’s Golden Age of the Tang Dynasty. And as spectacular as this day had been, we soon discover that our next day would be even more astonishing.

In the morning, our bus rolls smoothly beyond Xian’s walls, passing farms, orchards and roadside stands sun-drying persimmons. Pointing through the bus windows, Hanson remarks, “Imperial tombs surround Xian! Emperors, empresses and high-ranking officials are all buried there.” Looking out at the distant mound of first Emperor Qin Shihuang, we try to visualize his massive underground burial chamber, described in early records as jewel-filled palaces littered with gold and silver statues, pearl-encrusted ceilings and flowing mercury-rivers… and wonder whether the fabled treasures remain in his yet un-excavated tomb.

Hanson continues, “Ascending the throne at age13, Qin unified feudal kingdoms and established China’s first dynasty in 221 BC. Seven hundred thousand artisans worked on his mausoleum for decades before his death, never finishing it. His son eventually continued the work, as his father had wished.”

Stopping at a state workshop, we watch as artisans create souvenir soldier replicas in many sizes. Examining molds, tools and fire-pits reveals clay figure secrets. “Terracotta is baked clay,” the guide instructs. “Feet and legs are solid, bodies and heads hollow.” She continued, “Hairstyles distinguished ranks: topknots to the right were soldiers; topknots on the left, kneeling archers; two topknots like a butterfly indicated generals; a flattop designated officers or horsemen.”

Expecting natural terracotta earthen tones, I’m surprised to learn that hair, eyebrows, faces and hands had then been hand-painted in life-like colours: pink flesh, white eyeballs, black hair. Yellows and scarlet covered Emperor’s robes; green, soldiers’ trousers. Inspired, my hubby bargains for an entire clay regiment to guard our sun room plants back home.

Before viewing the revered Army of the Terracotta Warriors And Horses, we pass Mr. Yang, an elderly farmer signing keepsake books documenting his legendary discovery. While digging a new well in 1974, he had uncovered bronze weapons and broken warrior-bits, never expecting that this accidental discovery would result in the riveting UNESCO World Heritage Site we’re about to see.

Three earth-and-timber underground vaults have now been excavated. Over one thousand soldiers were discovered in a smaller chamber, sixty-eight warriors and war-chariots in another, the command post. The largest pit yielded an astounding terracotta army of six thousand life-sized foot soldiers, cavalry and officers…

At last, we enter into that bright air-conditioned pit over a football field and a half in size. Scarcely believing what we were seeing, we witness the twentieth century’s premier archeological discovery…

The remarkably preserved force stood in battle formation guarding Qin’s ancient imperial necropolis, exactly as he had dictated 2000 years before. Ranging from 5-feet-8inches to 6-feet in height, the armored warriors wore short chain-mail coats, belted long-sleeved gowns, leggings and laced boots. Stretching row-upon-row four abreast, they once held bows and arrows, swords or spears. Although buried for centuries, their weapons were rust-free and still sharp when unearthed!

Hanson observes, “Soldiers and horses have been carefully reassembled from collapsed rubble; the colours have mostly faded.” From each warrior’s facial expression, including wrinkles on the generals, we imagine their different personalities. Last of all, we pause thoughtfully at the humble well’s site, the place that had started worldwide notoriety.

Ah yes, Xian City’s celebrated attractions completely captivate our imaginations and resonate still, quite remarkable memories.

One Day Private Walking Tour in the Old City Area of Xi an

If You Go:

• For Tour Advice: www.hansontravel.ca
• Fly from Beijing: www.travelchinaguide.com/china-flights/beijing-xian.htm
• Beijing Train schedules & prices from Beijing: www.beijingchina.net.cn
• Xi’an Sights: www.travelchinaguide.com/attraction/shaanxi/xian

 

About the author:
A much-traveled freelance writer/photographer living near Vancouver, BC Chris Millikan is a former teacher and elementary school principal now extolling the joys of travel as an inviting ‘curriculum.’ Traveling off the beaten track with writer/photographer partner and hubby Rick, these accounts reflect zany, cultural and historic adventures. A member in good standing & Vice President of the BC Association of Travel Writers, her stories regularly appear in Senior Living Magazine, Open Road Magazine, In-flight Magazines, community newspapers and occasionally the Vancouver Sun and Province. She is a 2009 Kalama Award winner, acknowledged for stories that reflect the culture and history of Maui, Molokai & Lanai. Contact her at chrsmillikan4@gmail.com

All photos are by Rick & Chris Millikan:
1. Xian’s Great Mosque Entryway
2. Xian’s Wild Goose Pagoda in the mist
3. Xian’s City Wall Gate
4. Xian’s Terracotta Soldiers
5. Xian’s City Wall Bell Tower
6. Xian’s Muslim Mosque
7. Xian’s Wild Goose Pagoda Drum Tower

About the author:
A much-traveled freelance writer/photographer living near Vancouver, BC Chris Millikan is a former teacher and elementary school principal now extolling the joys of travel as an inviting ‘curriculum.’ Traveling off the beaten track with writer/photographer partner and hubby Rick, these accounts reflect zany, cultural and historic adventures. A member in good standing & Vice President of the BC Association of Travel Writers, her stories regularly appear in Senior Living Magazine, Open Road Magazine, in-flight magazines, community newspapers and occasionally the Vancouver Sun and Province. She is a 2009 Kalama Award winner, acknowledged for stories that reflect the culture and history of Maui, Molokai & Lanai. Contact her at chrsmillikan4@gmail.com