Bavaria, Germany
by Leslie Hebert
Taking wrong turns is an unavoidable hazard of travel. But, as I discovered while in Bavaria, a wrong turn may sometimes lead to a delightful detour.
I had come to Bavaria for the Oberammergau Passion Play. On the day of my unanticipated detour I woke up planning to explore the picturesque village where I was staying. But dark grey clouds hid the peaks of the nearby mountains threatening rain, and it was obviously a day to head indoors.
I decided to visit the most famous castle in Bavaria. Most people would not recognize the castle’s name, Neuschwanstein, but they would probably recognize its iconic turrets and spires. This fairy tale castle, which inspired Cinderella’s Castle in Disney’s Magic Kingdom, soars into the air from a spectacular perch atop a mountain ridge, appearing to defy gravity as it commands the valley below.
I caught the local bus into Oberammergau and headed for the bus terminal. A bus pulled up and I asked the driver if he was going to the castle. He gave a curt nod, so I climbed aboard and rode to the end of the line.
The day was not starting well. After a dreary ride in the rain my destination was disappointing. We were not high in the mountains but down in a valley. Following a crowd of tourists along a wide gravel path through the trees I turned a corner to see not soaring spires and turrets cresting a mountain peak but a rather unimpressive white house atop a small hill.
There was, however, a very impressive double staircase set into the hill. So having spent a good hour riding on the bus to get there, I decided to climb the three flights of stairs up the hill to check things out. As I got closer, the squat building at the top gradually began to appear more beautiful and ornate. When I arrived at the top, I paid the admission fee and waited for the English-speaking tour.
As it turned out, the tour was absolutely captivating. I had accidentally discovered Schloss Linderhof, built by Bavaria’s “mad” King Ludwig II between 1869 and 1886. I had never heard of King Ludwig but discovered that he was one of history’s great eccentrics. He was a fascinating study in contrasts. He was a shy and sensitive soul trained from birth for a very public royal role. He was a petty vassal owing allegiance to Prussia who, because he was born on the day Louis IX was canonized, felt an almost mystical connection to the great French House of Bourbon. He was also a modern constitutional monarch with very limited powers who wished he could have been one of history’s absolute rulers.
Just as Bourbon queen Marie-Antoinette built a play village in the grounds of Versailles because she dreamed of living like a peasant, Ludwig built play castles to realize his dreams of regal self-indulgence. Neuschwanstein is a fairy-tale vision which immortalized medieval fantasy and earned Ludwig the nickname “Swan King” (Neuschwanstein means “new swan stone”). In contrast, Linderhof is a re-creation in miniature of Marie-Antoinette’s Versailles where he could become the “Moon King” in imitation of the great Bourbon monarch, Sun King Louis XIV.
Although the exterior of the building appeared fairly unassuming, the interior, as befits a re-creation of the excesses of the Sun King, was absolutely over-the-top. There did not seem to be a square inch of wall or ceiling that was not ornately decorated with mirrors, gilt carvings, painted tapestries, silk, or embroidery.
The tour started in the vestibule, an elegant space decorated with rose marble pillars which pays tribute to the Sun King. Our guide then led us through a series of rooms, each more opulent than the last, to Ludwig’s massive bedroom where he slept in an enormous four poster bed covered in royal blue, gold-trimmed velvet.
We then entered the dining room. Here, we were told, Ludwig always ate alone and unseen. No servants entered the dining room to serve the king. Instead, his food was brought up on a mechanical table which rose up as if by magic from the kitchen below.
According to our guide, this reclusive monarch was ashamed of his bad teeth. However, I thought this was a rather odd explanation. After all, the servants would have been expected to show their king the greatest respect and would certainly not have been allowed to mock his poor dental health. So I did some checking on the Linderhof website. Here I discovered a much more interesting explanation. According to the memoirs of a royal cook, the table was always set to serve “at least three or four people” so that Ludwig could enjoy entertaining imaginary guests such as Louis XIV and Madame Pompadour with his brilliant and witty conversation.
After the house tour, I wandered around the palace grounds through artfully designed gardens which were definitely not at their best on this dark, sunless afternoon. It began to rain just as I saw a sign to The Venus Grotto, a cave in the hillside which offered a dry escape.
For King Ludwig, the Venus Grotto was much more than a simple escape from the rain. It was a total escape from reality. The King, it seems, was quite a patron of the arts. He commissioned private theatrical and musical performances in his very own theatre. He was also a great admirer and major sponsor of the great composer Richard Wagner, and the Venus Grotto was a man-made cave, a private retreat where Ludwig could enjoy Wagner’s music in blissful solitude.
The Grotto was lit by colored electric lights. While I assumed at first these were a modern addition for the benefit of tourists, I was surprised to learn that they were actually installed by Ludwig himself, who used one of Germany’s first electric generators to power them. In the cave, a waterfall fed a small lake on which floated a shell-shaped boat. The far end of the grotto was dominated by a large mural featuring a scene from a Wagnerian opera. Ludwig used to love spending time here, floating around the lake in the boat with Wagner, listening to stirring performances of Wagner’s music.
But Ludwig would have been better spending less time at the Venus Grotto and more time worrying about how to pay for his building projects.
Marie-Antoinette was guillotined for the excesses of Bourbon royalty. Ludwig’s end, although more prosaic, was also a consequence of his profligate lifestyle. It also holds a tantalizing element of mystery.
The king borrowed heavily from foreign banks to finance his fantasies, and in 1885 the banks began demanding repayment. The government, considering Ludwig unfit to govern, had psychiatrist Bernhard von Gudden diagnose him as insane. They deposed and imprisoned him. Three days after his internment, Ludwig went for a walk along the shore of Lake Starnberg with von Gudden. The two were later found dead, floating in the lake.
There were rumors of an accidental drowning or suicide, but these scenarios seem to be ruled out by the fact that there were two bodies. Murder was more likely, but who murdered Ludwig and von Gudden and why? Were they murdered to stop von Gudden helping the king to escape? Could it have been part of a government conspiracy? After more than 130 years, the jury is still out.
Royal Castles Tour from Frankfurt: Neuschwanstein Castle and Linderhof Palace
If You Go:
By Road:
Take the A95 motorway and then the B2 to Oberau. Look for road signs to Ettal (Ettaler Strasse, B23), drive through Ettal and turn left onto St2060. When you arrive in Linderhof turn right to the palace. You can find a trip planner at https://www.inspirock.com/germany/ettal/schloss-linderhof-a17253631
By Public Transport:
From elsewhere in Germany, take the train to Oberammergau. If you are staying in a village outside Oberammergau, take the local bus into town. Catch bus 9622 from Oberammergau station to Linderhof.
References:
Neuschwanstein Castle
Linderhof Palace
Study Claims Bavarian Monarch Was Sane
About the author:
Lesley Hebert is a graduate of Simon Fraser University. Now retired from teaching English as a second language in the classroom, she teaches ESL to international students via Skype. She also writes on-line articles which reflect a lively, inquiring mind and a love of travel, language, history and culture.
Print of Neuschwanstein Castle, ten years after its completion. US Library of Congress: Public domain via Wikimedia Commons.
Clouds over the Bavarian mountains: Photo by Lesley Hebert.
Linderhof Palace. Photo by Mike Hebert.
Bedroom, Linderhof Palace. Karl Gritschke (1923-1990), uploaded by: Moros (Own work) Public domain via Wikimedia Commons.
The Venus Grotto, Schloss Linderhof. By Softeis. Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons.
Ludwig II, the Swan King (ca. 1864). M Jacob (ARTQUID.com). Public domain via Wikimedia Commons.
To create the highest quality olive oil, it is vital to time the harvest perfectly. Unlike in other regions, olives in Tuscany are picked before they are ready to fall from the tree. This produces a fruity and lean extra virgin olive oil, even if the yield is lower. The ideal time to harvest is when the unripe green olives begin to mature and turn black, which is when they contain the highest quality oil. However, this is easier said than done since even olives on the same tree may mature at different rates. The flavours of green and black olives vary but both are needed to make good quality oil. The initial oil is generally more bitter but olives that fall when too ripe make poorer quality oil. Plucked directly from the tree, the fruit is extremely bitter and almost inedible.
The ideal olive picking team consists of as many family members and friends as possible to share the labour. Firstly, huge nets are spread out around the trunk of a tree. Naturally, most olive groves are far from flat so the nets often have to be propped up by sticks or branches pruned from the trees to prevent the precious harvest from rolling away.
After as many olives as possible have been plucked, they are rolled to the centre of the nets, and then “cleaned” by removing most of the leaves and any twigs or debris by hand before being transferred into sacks or crates. The equipment is then all moved to the next tree and the process is started all over again.
Although very light, the nets are rather cumbersome to move around and harvesters often have to stand in uncomfortable positions on steep slopes. It is essential to gather the harvest before the weather becomes too cold, so work needs to take place, rain or shine. It is also essential not to crush the olives that have fallen onto the nets so you need to be careful where you put your feet.
La Raccolta is a wonderful way of bringing together people of all ages and uniting them under the olive branch. Hard work is usually sustained with a hearty picnic in the fields washed down with a little vino. The delicate process from tree to bottle is painstaking and labour intensive but well worth the effort for the first taste of delicious freshly pressed “liquid gold.”
About the author:
I had been sad to leave Latvia, especially without seeing most of its sights, but it felt good to be back on the road, travelling overland in foreign countries. There was beautiful nature the whole journey between Riga and Parnu, Estonia’s ‘summer capital’ on its south-west coast. I could see white-sand beaches through pine trees either side of the border crossing at Ikla. Inland, large birds of prey glided through the sky, while migrating storks foraged on the ground.
I knew it wasn’t Parnu and Estonia’s fault, it was between the sun and me; and there had been nothing at all between us. I had been lying on one edge of our world, with only space between me and our star. I’m sure there’s a moral there, like Icarus flying too close to the sun in Greek mythology; taking something that looks and feels nice for granted, and not considering the dangers you have been taught are there. If I was a sun worshipper, rather than an admirer, I could have interpreted it either as a message to find another religion, or that the sun was angry with me, and I should worship it more earnestly.
I thought a good way to remember Tallinn’s spelling is to separate it into ‘tall inn’; especially as one of its most famous inns has the very memorable name of Hell Hunt. The picture on the inn’s exterior is also distinctive: a wolf carrying a woman. I was relieved to read that the Estonian meaning is Gentle Wolf, and nothing to do with the hell and hunt of English language.
I thought the towering Freedom Monument and terracotta tower might just be isolated landmarks until I saw the colossal Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral halfway up the winding cobbled hill leading north-west. Behind that was Toompea Castle, pink-walled home of the Estonian parliament; designed by Russia’s Catherine the Great in the 18th century. On its southern side there are gardens and an impressive view over western Tallinn and the Baltic Sea. A short walk down the hill eastwards and I happened upon the Kohtu viewing platform for an even better view. That’s because the Old Town was directly below, with about 800 years of architectural history stretching out nearly as far as the busy port; to the east, moderately high skyscrapers signalled the downtown business and retail district.
On the last day I walked an hour out to Rocca al Mare for its seaside forest park; by road most of the way, then cycle track into the wood. It was only when I reached a fence cutting me off from more thick woodland, and I looked at my map and guide book, that I realised it was the Open Air Museum. I decided to enter, even though I hadn’t seen any of the buildings inside. I made the decision only from the trees I could see, and a feeling of serenity.
Some of the buildings from 19th century Muhu Island had distinctive painted exteriors, reminiscent of native designs from other continents. There was also a house from the south-east of Estonia, where there is still a community of Russian Orthodox immigrants. There are worked fields, gardens and livestock; churches, windmills and wells; and an art exhibition in one house. Trees lined the paths, and most of the museum grounds are still forested. As I said in the introduction, the birdsong was constant, and sounded very uplifting.
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About the author:
The Ringstrasse or “The Ring Road” is a 3-mile long loop with a grand walking boulevard. The major Ringstrasse, a pedestrian-friendly historic center, has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Cafes and restaurants line the cobblestone side streets. The culinary scene cannot be overlooked. Located in the Hotel Sacher and the adjoining Cafe, a visitor cannot miss the infamous Sacher-Torte. Cafes abound throughout the avenues with bakery, meal tortes and beverages filled with visitors and Viennese people socializing. Patrons linger and enjoy an outdoor experience of a favorite pastime of people watching. Demel is the ultimate Chocolate shop filled with chocolate lover’s dreams. The Ringstrasse, is the main avenue for prestigious hotels including the Imperial Hotel. The Imperial Palace, Natural History Museum, Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna State Opera and the Parliament are located on the Ring. In the town square is St. Stephen’s Cathedral, a Gothic structure built in the 12th century. The Hofburg Imperial Palace, the center of the Habsburg Empire and other attractions are nearby. A morning church service mesmerizes the congregation with the famous Vienna Boys Choir, voices perfectly blended as if listening to an angelic choir.
The Schonbrunn Palace, a 1,441-room Baroque palace is one of the most important architectural, cultural and historical monuments in the country. The history of the palace and gardens spans a period of over 300 years of successive Habsburg monarchs. This palace was the former Imperial summer residence. In 1569, the Holy Emperor Maximilian ll purchased the land. It served as a hunting ground and fishing pond. The name Schonbrunn means ‘beautiful spring’ which dates to the artesian well which provided water for the court. From 1638-1643, a palace was added and in 1642, the first mention of Schonbrunn appeared. In its present form today, the place was remodeled in 1740-50’s during the reign of empress Maria Theresa who was given the estate as a wedding gift. Franz l redecorated the palace exterior in neoclassical style which exists today. Forty rooms are opened to the public with frescoes adorning every room, gold gilding on the ceiling and walls and the exquisite décor throughout the palace.
Located behind the Palace are the Schoenbrunn Gardens. These acres contain a sculpted garden, orangery, maze, long trellised walkways and quiet seating areas. Various movies and major concerts have been filmed on location. Along the Great Parterre are 32 cultures represented by deities and virtues. At the top of the 200-foot hill, is the Gloriette structure. Destroyed in WWW ll, it was restored in 1995. Today it houses an observation deck and café. In front, is the Roman Ruin which consists of a rectangular pool enclosed by an arch with lateral walls. A figural sculpture symbolizes the rivers Vltava and the Elbe.
Belvedere Palace is two palaces, the Upper and the Lower. Here is where the Belvedere Museum is housed. It contains art from the 19thand 20th Century Austrian artists. Located inside the Osterreichische Gallery is a replica of the famous “The Kiss” which is a self-portrait of Gustoff Klimt. Adorned in the Baroque style, the property has decorated tiered fountains, sculptures, wrought iron gates and an expansive decorative garden.
The Vienna State Opera is the World’s Greatest Opera House. Entering the front doors is a grand staircase of marble, chandeliered lobby, shimmering gold statues and lush carpeting. New Operas are presented nightly. The opera house, built in the 1860’s by Emperor Franz Joseph was inaugurated in 1869 with a performance of Mozart’s ‘Don Juan’. In 1945, the opera house was bombed. All that remained was the main façade, the grand staircase, the main lobby, attached veranda and the Tea Salon. In 1955, the opera reopened with the performance of Beethoven’s ‘Fidelio’. This opera house is the pride of Vienna. Concerts and classical music abound in the city. I was fortunate to have a private, early morning tour with a small group. The interior of the opera is opulent in size, seating 2200 attendees on the floor, selective boxes, and dignitary balcony seating. Standing by the orchestra pit one could imagine conducting the orchestra to a famous Mozart, Beethoven or Strauss performance. The stage, the size of the opera house itself was in the process of preparing for the evening performance. Although the stage is huge, costumes and scenery are stored in a nearby building until morning transfer to the stage. Work with the stage crew continues twenty-four hours a day. The luxurious intermission rooms for dignitaries were immense with gilded and architectural ceilings with frescoes. Mirrors adorned the walls for ladies to admire their luxurious gowns. Every box also had a small intermission area with beverages. Walking throughout the streets of Vienna, music can be heard from concert venues, churches, shopping areas and festivals held during the season.
The Kursalon is an opulent Renaissance style icon concert hall. The stirring music of Johann Strauss and Wolfgang Mozart is performed in Lanner Hall for visitors to celebrate Viennese music with vocalists, ballet and concert orchestra. Outside, in Vienna’s City Park, is one of the most photographed monuments in Vienna, The gold statue of “The Waltz King”…Johann Strauss. In 1921, as the ‘Blue Danube Waltz’ played, Edmund Hellmer’s statue was unveiled. Strauss’s waltzes kept the 300 ballroom floors around Vienna spinning with Viennese Waltzes during the 19th Century. Today, Balls continue to be held in the ballrooms and palaces. Dance lessons are a requirement to properly dance the Viennese waltz. During the ‘season’, couples elegantly dress in ball gowns and tuxedos, to participate in the Grand Waltz Balls or the Debutante Balls. During the summer, evening music performances reminisce the music of Strauss, Schubert, Beethoven, Haydn, Liszt and Mozart.
In front of the Parliament Building is the Athena Statue. Within the Parliament are committee rooms, libraries, dining rooms, bars and a gymnasium. The Town Hall in front is where the well-known Christmas Market is held yearly.
The Hausdermisik, the Music House, located in the old city center has an interactive music keyboard stairway and other musical hands-on experiences. The five upper floors feature all the composers who lived, composed and performed in the Vienna Concert Halls and Opera House.
The Naschmarkt, Vienna’s Old World Market of 120 stalls immerses you in the flavors and colors of Vienna. Here you will find vendors selling fruit, vegetables, meat, fish, olives, bread, oils, wine and handmade products. Small indoor and outdoor restaurants line the corridors including a beer garden. This is an International market of food and spices from throughout the world. Chefs buy produce from the market to prepare meals in upscale city restaurants. Chatting with the vendors and sampling sweet crepes and Austrian cheeses from alpine dairies makes for an enjoyable, delectable afternoon.
All photos are by Mary Ann Olson:
YAROSLAVL
