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Historical and cultural travel experiences

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Cruising the Historic Mediterranean

Abbey at Montserrat

Spain, Italy & Greece

by Matthew Adams 

The Mediterranean has a variety of intriguing historic destinations in Spain, Italy and Greece. One way you can visit some of those fascinating historical sites is via a cruise. Cruise ships usually stop at ports in Italy, Spain, France and Greece from which you visit some of the world’s greatest museums and historical architecture. This is a Crown Princess cruise I did to see some of the finest historic destinations.

Barcelona

Barcelona, in Catalonia, was the first stopping port. This is a historically significant city in its own right that includes some astonishing architecture. Its most notable architectural landmark is the Sagrada Familia, designed by Gaudi, that includes eight spires which will increase to 18 when construction of the church is complete.

I never went in the Sagrada Familia on my trip, but instead went to the Montserrat Monastery. This is a Benedictine abbey at the summit of the Montserrat mountain. As the mountain rises about 1,200 meters, it’s worth a trip just for the magnificent views alone. There you can also hike the Montserrat nature park that includes numerous hiking trails.

Pisa and Florence

PisaOn another stop I visited Pisa with a coach excursion. There I visited the Cathedral Square, a UNESCO heritage site, that is one of the greatest architectural complexes in Europe. That is largely due to the Leaning Tower of Pisa, which is a 183 foot tower with a slight lean of about four degrees. I briefly went in the Duomo cathedral, a masterpiece of Romesque architecture, before returning to the coach. However, the tour gave me little more than 30 minutes in Pisa.

Florence was the next stop on the tour. The historical significance of Florence lies in the Renaissance era, otherwise a cultural rebirth, that inspired a new breed of art and architecture in the city. So it’s not surprising that the Historic Center of Florence is another UNESCO heritage site.

I got a little more time in Florence than Pisa. So I went inside Florence Cathedral that is an effective blend of Italian Gothic, Renaissance and Gothic Revival architecture. The most striking aspect of this cathedral is its huge dome, which is the largest masonry dome ever constructed. I also visited the Ponte Vecchio bridge across the River Arno, which is another of Florence’s landmarks. The bridge retains some of its towers originally built as defensive structures.

Rome

PantheonAs the capital of an empire that once dominated Europe, Rome has obvious historical significance. The city has preserved some of the finest buildings from the former empire. I took some snapshots of the Colosseum on my trip. I also went to the Pantheon, a remarkably preserved temple that has intriguing architecture. The temple has a coffered concrete dome with an oculus, or central opening, at its summit through which sunlight beams through. With that the Pantheon might have effectively been one giant sundial.

The next stop for the coach was the Vatican. The Vatican has been a separate city-state since fascist Italy established the Lateran Treaty. The Vatican Museums are among the largest in the world, and they include some of the most priceless Renaissance art. The museums showcase a multitude of sculptures, paintings, stone tablets and archeological relics dug up from excavations. Furthermore, visitors can also check out the St. Peter’s Basilica church at St Peter’s Square that also has fabulous Renaissance architecture.

I had a ticket specifically for the Sistine Chapel. That is another masterpiece of Renaissance art with its finely painted ceiling and numerous frescoes that decorate the interior. Finding the Sistine Chapel in the Vatican Museums is not easy, and you can get lost within the maze of corridors. A day at the Vatican would never be enough to effectively explore the immense museum collections. Nevertheless, I eventually found the chapel that was something to behold.

Gibraltar

Rock of GibralterFinally, the Crown Princess stopped at Gibraltar. This U.K. overseas territory is most notable for the Rock of Gibraltar, which is a limestone rock that rises about 1,398 feet. As the gateway to the Mediterranean, Gibraltar was a strategically vital outpost of the British Empire. Consequently, the British army dug a series of tunnels through the rock where it could store armaments and munitions. The tunnels also protected troops from coastal and aerial bombardments. Britain dug the most extensive Gibraltar tunnels during the 1940s that were expansive enough to accommodate a garrison of 16,000 troops.

I made the trip up the rock for the terrific Mediterranean views. I also entered the entrance of the tunnels of Gibraltar, which are otherwise the Great Siege Tunnels. In addition, I stopped at St. Michael’s Cave, which is a network of limestone caves. There I went inside the Cathedral Cave that includes an auditorium for concerts and drama productions.

Thereafter, I returned to Blighty. What better way to ‘travel through history’ than a European cruise? You can visit many of Europe’s finest historic venues in Italy, Spain or Greece with coach excursions from cruise ports. The only disadvantage is that some coach trips might only give you a very limited time period at a destination.

If You Go:

Pantheon
Vatican Museums
Leaning Tower of Pisa
Great Siege Tunnels
St. Michael’s Cave
Montserrat


Pisa and Florence Private Day Trip from Livorno

About the author:
Matthew is a freelancer who has produced a variety of articles for various publications and websites such as Swing Golf Magazine, TripAdvisor, Naval History, Artilleryman, dotTech, Bright Hub, Coed Magazine the Washington Post and Vagabundo Travel. Matthew is also the author of Battles of the Pacific War 1941 – 1945. Check out the book’s blog at battlesofthepacificwar.blogspot.co.uk.

All photos are by Matthew Adams:
The Benedictine abbey at Montserrat
The Duomo and Leaning Tower of Pisa at Pisa
The Pantheon in Rome
A snapshot of the Rock of Gibraltar at Gibraltar

Tagged With: Barcelona attractions, Gibralter attractions, Greece travel, Italy travel, Pisa attractions, Rome attractions, spain travel Filed Under: Europe Travel

Spain: The Roman and Carthaginians Festival

Carthagenians festival
by Darlene Foster 

The ground shakes with the ominous beat of drums. Passing by us are legions of solemn Roman soldiers, animal-skin clad barbarians with painted faces and colourful shields, ferocious gladiators wearing appropriate sandals, dancing maidens, priests, soothsayers and toga covered senators. We find ourselves in the midst of a Romans and Carthaginians Festival. This spectacle is held every year to celebrate the vibrant history of the strategic port city of Cartagena, Spain.

Cartagena has more than 2,000 years of history. The Romans and Carthaginians Festival is a remembrance of the second Punic War, beginning with the foundation of Qart Hadast, the name given to Cartagena by the Phoenicians in 228 BC, and ending with its capture by the Romans in 209 BC. The Romans named the city Carthago Nova (the New Carthage)

Carthagenian festivalThroughout the last ten days of September, battles are re-enacted, ancient ceremonies held and troops in full battle dress march through the streets of Cartagena. The Carthaginian and Roman armies arrive by sea in a dramatic display and then march through town to an encampment set up on the football field. We are fortunate to witness part of this event during an enchanting evening I will never forget.

The costumes and attention to historic detail are amazing. It is as if all the citizens of Cartagena are in costume for the event. And like everything in Spain, the entire family is involved. Men, woman and children take on roles as Roman soldiers and barbarian hordes. The tradesfolk who followed the armies serving their needs are also represented. Bakers, butchers, blacksmiths, potters and entertainers are interspersed between armies following standard bearers. Elaborate floats depicting Roman villas and amphitheatres and even an elephant from Hannibal’s army pass by while we are entertained by a snake handler, a joker, a conjurer and a soothsayer.   My excitement grows when monks appear leading massive bulls through the narrow streets lined with onlookers. An ancient high priest rewards me with a huge smile after I take his picture.

The author, Darlene Foster, with festival participantsThere are many photo ops at these events. Arriving early affords you an opportunity to wander among the participants as they prepare for the parade. They are only too are happy to pose for you, or with you, as they proudly show off their costumes. It is easy to get caught up in the excitement. I stare in awe at the ultimate gladiator sandals gracing the tanned feet of a well-toned gladiator. Now, where can I get a pair like that?

The ambience makes me feel part of history as it is brought to life.

If You Go:

Cartagena is located on the Mediterranean coast in south-eastern Spain.
Alicante International Airport is 116 kilometers from Cartagena.
The closest airport is Murcia’s San Javier airport, 30 kilometers from Cartagena.
There are no direct buses to Cartagena from the San Javier airport; many hire a car at the airport and drive the 20 minutes into town. A taxi costs around €40.
Once there, inexpensive tour buses are available to take you to see the many historic sites of the city. There are also boat tours of the harbour. It is also a great city to explore by foot.
Check the website for the dates and schedule of the Romans and Carthaginians Festival held at the end of September every year.

About the author:
Darlene Foster is a dedicated writer and traveler. She is the author of a series of books featuring Amanda, a spunky young girl who loves to travel to interesting places such as the United Arab Emirates, Spain, England, Alberta and Eastern Europe, where she always has an exciting adventure. Darlene divides her time between the west coast of Canada and the Costa Blanca of Spain when she isn’t  exploring the world. Visit darlenefoster.ca.

All photos by Darlene Foster

Tagged With: Cartagena attractions, spain travel Filed Under: Europe Travel

Rome: Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore

Santa Maria Maggiore

The Gathering Point

by Ron Ellege
What do dancing young people, senior sojourners, and Pope Francis have in common? The Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore in Rome, Italy.

Viewing its Activity

When in Rome, our go to hotel is the Mecenata Palace which is a worthy refuge of elegance, located atop Esquiline Hill. The hotel is directly across the street from the Basilica, and our requested room provides an unobstructed view of the church.

celebrating massOver the years we have watched groups gather at twilight for the beginning of their pub crawls. Dividing into teams, they guzzle through drinking games in the piazza while preparing for their evening of revelry. We have observed crowds gather for marches, tours, protests and rallies. From blurry eyed, early morning senior groups touring the Basilica, to high-spirited youth groups assembling to sing and dance in the square, this church is a well celebrated gathering point.

On June 4, 2015, Pope Francis visited Santa Maria Maggiore to celebrate the annual Solemnity of Corpus Christy. The hotel provides an excellent vantage point for this festival held each year on the Basilica steps. My article and pictures of this assembly can be viewed at, “Pope Francis visits Santa Maria Maggiore.”

Importance and Prestige of this Basilica

holy iconThere are over 25 churches in Rome dedicated to Mary, Santa Maria Maggiore is the largest of these Marian churches. This Major Papal Basilica is prominent in the tradition and adulation of the Catholic community worldwide. Many travel blogs rate Santa Maria as one of the ten most beautiful churches in Europe. Walks of Italy tour Major Basilicas of Rome, includes it as one of “the three most important churches in Rome.” Frommer’s rates it #3 in its article; “The Best Churches.” If you are a cathedral buff, Italy is not complete until you have experienced this great lady.

Located on Esquiline Hill, one of the ancient “Seven Hills of Rome,” the present Basilica dates back to the fifth century AD. It was constructed between 432 and 440 to celebrate the major output of the 431 Council of Ephesus. In Catholic tradition, the Basilica is an attestation of the importance of the Virgin Mary as the Mother of God.

This Basilica is Rome’s only remaining example of early Christian architecture whose core structure remains as it was 1600 years ago. Step in the door and wonder surrounds you, grand and modest – simple yet extravagant, art which captures the eye is witnessed in every direction. The mosaics found in Santa Maria Maggiore are among the oldest representations of the Virgin Mary in Christian Antiquity. Revelations of human thought, presented through combinations of differing styles of mosaic expression.

The Nave and Triumphal Arch

nave and archThe golden mosaics adorning the triumphal arch date from the 5th century and depict scenes from the early life of Christ and the Virgin Mary. On the left at the top is a panel depicting Christ’s enthronement with a group of angels as his court. Below this is the Epiphany or Adoration of the Magi. The young Christ is seated on a throne with Mary on his right, they are attended by angels.

Panels on the Right side of the triumphal arch include the Presentation in the Temple; the Flight into Egypt; Herod visited by the Magi; the city of Bethlehem. The top center panel displays a circle containing the apocalyptic throne of Christ with the Book of the Seven Seals, flanked by St. Peter and St. Paul.

The Apse

church apseItalian painter and mosaic maker Jacopo Torriti is credited with the adornment of the apse, he crafted it in 1295. The magnificent central work shows the Coronation of the Virgin in which Jesus and Mary are seated on a throne with Jesus placing a jeweled crown on Mary’s head. The sun and moon are under their feet accompanied by a choir of adoring angels. Standing to their left are St. Peter, St. Paul, St. Francis of Assisi and Pope Nicholas IV. Standing on the right is St. John the Baptist, St. John the Evangelist, St. Anthony and Cardinal Colonna. The apse of Santa Maria Maggiore is the most important surviving example of Roman mosaic art from the late middle ages. Descend below the high altar and you enter the burial place of Saint Jerome, this 4th-century saint translated the Bible into the Latin language (the Vulgate). Upstairs, located in the Borghese Chapel, is “Salus Populi Romani,” believed to be the oldest Marian image in Rome. However, on display in this vault is arguably the most important artifact of the Basilica, The Reliquary of the Holy Crib. This crystal shrine, designed by Giuseppe Valadier, is said to contain wood from the Holy Crib of the nativity of Jesus Christ.

The Legend of the Snowfall

Legend has it that an aristocrat named Giovanni, and his barren wife were without child. Seeking divine intervention they committed to build a church to the Virgin Mary. She appeared to them in a dream on the night of August 4, 352 A.D. and told them that a miracle would show them the location on which they were to build the church. That night, Pope Liberius was troubled by the same dream. On the following morning, he travelled to Esquiline Hill and found it miraculously covered in snow. Liberius then traced an outline for the location of the planned church. Although many feel this legend has little basis in fact, to this day the church on Esquiline Hill is often referred to as Our Lady of the Snow.

dome interior5 Reasons to visit Santa Maria Maggiore

1. The opulence of its décor.
♦ This gem will keep your camera snapping and your eyes twinkling from the grandeur of its marble floors, tapestries, mosaics, statues, tombs and relics.
♦ Its spectacular ceiling is said to be decorated with gold which Columbus transported from the new world.

2. The freedom to move about with little crowding
♦ Check the schedule for special occasions and visit any other time.
♦ Only on rare occasions is this venue crowded.

3. Proximity and ease of access
♦ A four block walk from the main train station and Termini Underground.
♦ The city bus stop is on the corner of the piazza
♦ A scheduled stop for all Hop On Hop Off tours
♦ Only a ten minute walk from the Colosseum.

4. It’s FREE! There is no cost of admission
♦ Stay as long as you want, return as often as you please.

5. Its prominence and status among Rome’s churches
♦ Santa Maria Maggiore is one of the Seven Pilgrim Churches of Rome
♦ It stands among the four patriarchal basilicas

Maria Maggiore is listed as a “Top 10 Attraction” and “Must See Venue” in most major guide books, including Rick Steves’.


If You Go:

Expect to spend several hours in this grand Basilica and by all means, bring a camera. Guided tours can be arranged through many of the local or world-wide guide services such as Frommer’s or Walks of Italy. Self-guided tours, complete with audio guides are available in the vestibule. For information visit their official website.

Hours of Operation: The Santa Maria Maggiore Basilica is open Monday through Saturday from 7:00 to 19:00 (in winter until 18:00), on Sundays and holidays from 9:30 to 12:00. Free admission.

How to get there: get off at the stop termini of the underground; take via Cavour southwest 4 blocks, the Basilica is on your left. The Basilica is located on the square with the same name – Piazza di Santa Maria Maggiore also referred to as Piazza dell’Esquilino.
Address: Piazza di S. Maria Maggiore, 42, 00100 Roma RM, Italy
Phone: +39 06 6988 6800

Link for GoogleMap is HERE.


Churches of Rome Small-Group Tour: Maria Maggiore, Santa Pudenziana, and Basilica di Santa Prassede

About the author:
Ron Elledge is a Freelance Writer/Photographer. You can see some of his work at these sites:

www.writtenfyi.com (blog)
www.ronelledgeexposed.com (photography)
ron@writtenfyi.com (email)

All photos are by Ron Elledge.

Tagged With: Italy travel, Rome attractions Filed Under: Europe Travel

A Travel Through History in Helsinki, Finland

Helsinki central square
by Marc Latham 

After walking half-way around an island on the edge of Helsinki I thought the buildings ahead looked ancient; my first thought was that they were old beach huts still used occasionally. As I walked past the first few with nobody else around, the tarmac path giving way to a dusty earth one, flanked by pine trees, it felt for a few moments as if I had literally travelled back through time.

However, a few steps farther and I reached some people looking at bigger houses, with information about them outside, and realised I must be in some kind of open-air museum, having recently visited one on the edge of Tallinn in Estonia. However, there it was all fenced off, whereas this one you could just walk straight into. I later noticed you had to pay to go into some of the bigger buildings, but could walk around them freely.

Canoeists in Viikki inlet It was another delightful walk through historic buildings, on a bright sunny day similar to the one I’d enjoyed in Tallinn. Whereas the open-air museum in Tallinn felt like a circular closed community, this one in Helsinki was like a village on an old road, with most of the houses lining the path.

I had never heard of the Seurasaari open-air museum before, and didn’t even know the name of the island was Seurasaari. I was also delighted to see its colloquial name is Squirrel Island, after I thought I saw my first red squirrel scampering along a ridge between centuries-old houses and the pine forest.

I’d set off that morning, my last full day in the city, to hike in Helsinki’s Central Park, north-west from where I was staying, after I’d already walked in the other regions of Finland’s capital in the previous two days of my visit. I walked through the middle of the park, stopping for breakfast in the middle of its thick forestry.

Tomb of Augustin Ehrensvard However, it was still early, so I continued walking to the west, emerging onto a main road, that I think was the E12. There was more greenery over the other side, and water too; looking like one of Helsinki’s many fjords. After walking through a little more forest I reached a bridge, not knowing the island on the other side was Seurasaari, or that it housed the open-air museum. I walked around to the right at first, with the museum starting just to the left.

Before I reached the museum I’d thought it was a coincidence, and a surprise result for my adventurism, when I reached the Kalevalakehto (Shaman’s Haven of the Kalevala) art installation, having encountered the Kalevala in research for my last book. The Kalevala is Finland’s epic folklore poem; written in the nineteenth century, it is considered instrumental in forging an independent Finnish identity.

Suomenlinna - man in vintage costumeAfter leaving there, the tarmac path turned to dusty earth, and I encountered four steps with an information placard to their side. It said that one of Finland’s most famous politicians, Urho Kekkonen (1900-1986), used to test himself into old age by jumping up them from a standing start when he walked around the island. Before Kekkonen became a five-time Prime-Minister and five-time President of Finland, he was the Finnish high-jump champion in 1924. He lived at the entrance to the island for thirty years during and after his presidency, and Tamminiemi villa has now been made into a museum. I tried jumping up the steps, after postponing the first time when people appeared out of the forest, and reached the second highest.

Continuing inland, I first saw old storehouses, a stable and what I later found out was Pertinotsa House. It wasn’t until I reached some of the massive colourful buildings that I realised it was a museum… and I hadn’t really travelled back through time. Kahiluoto Manor, brought to Seurasaari from Kahiluoto Island, dates from the 18th century. Karuna Church is the oldest and most impressive building of the eighty-seven in the museum, dating back to 1686.

open air museum boatThe population of Helsinki was only 600 in 1710, after plague killed twice as many of its previous population. The city had been founded in 1550 by King Gustav Vasa of Sweden. Sweden and Russia fought over the territory several times during the 18th century, with Russia taking charge of the whole territory in 1809.

It was then that Helsinki became the capital of an autonomous Finland, after Tsar Alexander moved the capital east from Turku, which faces Sweden from Finland’s south-west coast. Helsinki is closer to Saint Petersburg, which was the capital of the Russian Empire at the time.

Seeing Finland’s size, and having first registered it from childhood through long-distance runner Lasse Virén winning double golds in the 1972 and 1976 Olympics, I was surprised to read that its independence is less than a century old. I visited the Olympic Stadium that hosted the 1952 Olympics on my first evening in the city. I’d seen the city centre’s impressive buildings after arriving at the port, with the sensational cathedral and senate square another pleasant surprise.

museum Karuna church On my first full day I walked out of the city to the north-east for a couple of hours, reaching the Viikki nature reserve without much difficulty. It’s a beautiful big wetlands area, with many bridges linking islands and the mainland. Finland is the most forested country in Europe, with seventy per-cent of land covered, and takes its environmentalism seriously. According to the Finnish Environment Institute, Finland’s forested land is actually growing, and so are the populations of large mammals, such as bears, wolves, wolverines and lynx.

On my second of three days I visited Suomenlinna, a sea fortress built on six small islands in the eighteenth century by Sweden to protect their eastern border in the wars with Russia. I’d seen its fortifications when arriving on the ferry from Tallinn, and may not have visited if it wasn’t so financially reasonable. I’m glad it is, and I did.

statue near olympic statiumYou can reach the Unesco World Heritage Site’s main island on a municipal ferry boat, and then, like the open-air museum on Seurasaari, you just pay for individual displays and rooms. There are still many people living on the Suomenlinna islands, and it is also a popular conference centre. I walked through the village to the embattlements and cannons looking out at the Baltic Sea. It was the only cloudy day of my time in Helsinki, and quite chilly; making it easier to imagine the hardship of winter war there during the 18th century.

I thought it was going to be my only day of travelling through history until reaching the open-air museum on Seurasaari the next day. Finland has an interesting history, but seems to have a more promising future. Its environment and economy are managed efficiently, with recognition that each is vital to maintain a balance between health and prosperity for the country, its people and animals.


Taste of Helsinki & Suomenlinna excursion

If You Go:

I arrived by boat with Linda Lines from Tallinn, Estonia – an hour trip costing 45 euros. I returned to the U.K. on Scandinavian Airlines. I’d flown to the Baltic with Ryanair, landing in Riga, Latvia, and then travelled overland to Estonia.

I stayed at the Sweet Dream guest house, Hämeentie 21G, Helsinki, which was very nice and well run.

Links
♦ Suomenlinna
♦ Open-air museum
♦ Kahiluoto Manor
♦ Karuna Church
♦ Finland’s environmental record
♦ Urho Kekkonen

 

About the author:
Marc Latham travelled to all the populated continents during his twenties. He studied during his thirties, including a BA in History, and spent his forties creative writing. He lives in Leeds, writing from the www.greenygrey3.com website. He has had a Magnificent Seven books published, most recently completing a trilogy of comedy fantasy travel by web maps and information. The blogged book’s theme might have inspired the return of the X Files. The Truth is Out There and all that, and the books are available on Amazon and other bookstores.

All photos by Marc Latham:
Helsinki central square
Canoeists in Viikki inlet
Suomenlinna: Tomb of Augustin Ehrensvard
Suomenlinna: Man in costume
Open-air museum boat
Open-air museum Karuna church
Statue near the Olympic Stadium

Tagged With: Finland travel, Helsinki attractions Filed Under: Europe Travel

Mad King Ludwig’s Dream Castles

Neuschwanstein Castle

Bavaria, Germany

by Leslie Hebert 

Taking wrong turns is an unavoidable hazard of travel. But, as I discovered while in Bavaria, a wrong turn may sometimes lead to a delightful detour.

clouds over Bavarian mountainsI had come to Bavaria for the Oberammergau Passion Play. On the day of my unanticipated detour I woke up planning to explore the picturesque village where I was staying. But dark grey clouds hid the peaks of the nearby mountains threatening rain, and it was obviously a day to head indoors.

I decided to visit the most famous castle in Bavaria. Most people would not recognize the castle’s name, Neuschwanstein, but they would probably recognize its iconic turrets and spires. This fairy tale castle, which inspired Cinderella’s Castle in Disney’s Magic Kingdom, soars into the air from a spectacular perch atop a mountain ridge, appearing to defy gravity as it commands the valley below.

I caught the local bus into Oberammergau and headed for the bus terminal. A bus pulled up and I asked the driver if he was going to the castle. He gave a curt nod, so I climbed aboard and rode to the end of the line.

The day was not starting well. After a dreary ride in the rain my destination was disappointing. We were not high in the mountains but down in a valley. Following a crowd of tourists along a wide gravel path through the trees I turned a corner to see not soaring spires and turrets cresting a mountain peak but a rather unimpressive white house atop a small hill.

There was, however, a very impressive double staircase set into the hill. So having spent a good hour riding on the bus to get there, I decided to climb the three flights of stairs up the hill to check things out. As I got closer, the squat building at the top gradually began to appear more beautiful and ornate. When I arrived at the top, I paid the admission fee and waited for the English-speaking tour.

Linderhof palaceAs it turned out, the tour was absolutely captivating. I had accidentally discovered Schloss Linderhof, built by Bavaria’s “mad” King Ludwig II between 1869 and 1886. I had never heard of King Ludwig but discovered that he was one of history’s great eccentrics. He was a fascinating study in contrasts. He was a shy and sensitive soul trained from birth for a very public royal role. He was a petty vassal owing allegiance to Prussia who, because he was born on the day Louis IX was canonized, felt an almost mystical connection to the great French House of Bourbon. He was also a modern constitutional monarch with very limited powers who wished he could have been one of history’s absolute rulers.

Just as Bourbon queen Marie-Antoinette built a play village in the grounds of Versailles because she dreamed of living like a peasant, Ludwig built play castles to realize his dreams of regal self-indulgence. Neuschwanstein is a fairy-tale vision which immortalized medieval fantasy and earned Ludwig the nickname “Swan King” (Neuschwanstein means “new swan stone”). In contrast, Linderhof is a re-creation in miniature of Marie-Antoinette’s Versailles where he could become the “Moon King” in imitation of the great Bourbon monarch, Sun King Louis XIV.

Although the exterior of the building appeared fairly unassuming, the interior, as befits a re-creation of the excesses of the Sun King, was absolutely over-the-top. There did not seem to be a square inch of wall or ceiling that was not ornately decorated with mirrors, gilt carvings, painted tapestries, silk, or embroidery.

King Ludwig's bedroomThe tour started in the vestibule, an elegant space decorated with rose marble pillars which pays tribute to the Sun King. Our guide then led us through a series of rooms, each more opulent than the last, to Ludwig’s massive bedroom where he slept in an enormous four poster bed covered in royal blue, gold-trimmed velvet.

We then entered the dining room. Here, we were told, Ludwig always ate alone and unseen. No servants entered the dining room to serve the king. Instead, his food was brought up on a mechanical table which rose up as if by magic from the kitchen below.

According to our guide, this reclusive monarch was ashamed of his bad teeth. However, I thought this was a rather odd explanation. After all, the servants would have been expected to show their king the greatest respect and would certainly not have been allowed to mock his poor dental health. So I did some checking on the Linderhof website. Here I discovered a much more interesting explanation. According to the memoirs of a royal cook, the table was always set to serve “at least three or four people” so that Ludwig could enjoy entertaining imaginary guests such as Louis XIV and Madame Pompadour with his brilliant and witty conversation.

The grand finale of the house tour was the Hall of Mirrors. Have you ever looked into a mirror that contains a reflection of a mirror behind you, and you see reflections of reflections going off into infinity? Imagine that phenomenon magnified a hundredfold in a room where every inch of wall seems to show a dizzying, mind-blowing reflection of a myriad other reflections. Now combine this vision with another tidbit of information I found on the Linderhof website. King Ludwig slept all day and stayed up all night. This room would therefore have likely been his nocturnal retreat. At night, illuminated by hundreds of flickering candles reflected over and over again in the room’s hundreds of mirrors, it would have presented a truly hypnotic vision. What dreams, I wondered, did the Moon King play out in this magical room?

After the house tour, I wandered around the palace grounds through artfully designed gardens which were definitely not at their best on this dark, sunless afternoon. It began to rain just as I saw a sign to The Venus Grotto, a cave in the hillside which offered a dry escape.

Venus grottoFor King Ludwig, the Venus Grotto was much more than a simple escape from the rain. It was a total escape from reality. The King, it seems, was quite a patron of the arts. He commissioned private theatrical and musical performances in his very own theatre. He was also a great admirer and major sponsor of the great composer Richard Wagner, and the Venus Grotto was a man-made cave, a private retreat where Ludwig could enjoy Wagner’s music in blissful solitude.

The Grotto was lit by colored electric lights. While I assumed at first these were a modern addition for the benefit of tourists, I was surprised to learn that they were actually installed by Ludwig himself, who used one of Germany’s first electric generators to power them. In the cave, a waterfall fed a small lake on which floated a shell-shaped boat. The far end of the grotto was dominated by a large mural featuring a scene from a Wagnerian opera. Ludwig used to love spending time here, floating around the lake in the boat with Wagner, listening to stirring performances of Wagner’s music.

But Ludwig would have been better spending less time at the Venus Grotto and more time worrying about how to pay for his building projects.

Marie-Antoinette was guillotined for the excesses of Bourbon royalty. Ludwig’s end, although more prosaic, was also a consequence of his profligate lifestyle. It also holds a tantalizing element of mystery.

The king borrowed heavily from foreign banks to finance his fantasies, and in 1885 the banks began demanding repayment. The government, considering Ludwig unfit to govern, had psychiatrist Bernhard von Gudden diagnose him as insane. They deposed and imprisoned him. Three days after his internment, Ludwig went for a walk along the shore of Lake Starnberg with von Gudden. The two were later found dead, floating in the lake.

There were rumors of an accidental drowning or suicide, but these scenarios seem to be ruled out by the fact that there were two bodies. Murder was more likely, but who murdered Ludwig and von Gudden and why? Were they murdered to stop von Gudden helping the king to escape? Could it have been part of a government conspiracy? After more than 130 years, the jury is still out.


Royal Castles Tour from Frankfurt: Neuschwanstein Castle and Linderhof Palace

If You Go:

By Road:

Take the A95 motorway and then the B2 to Oberau. Look for road signs to Ettal (Ettaler Strasse, B23), drive through Ettal and turn left onto St2060. When you arrive in Linderhof turn right to the palace. You can find a trip planner at https://www.inspirock.com/germany/ettal/schloss-linderhof-a17253631

By Public Transport:

From elsewhere in Germany, take the train to Oberammergau. If you are staying in a village outside Oberammergau, take the local bus into town. Catch bus 9622 from Oberammergau station to Linderhof.

References:
Neuschwanstein Castle
Linderhof Palace
Study Claims Bavarian Monarch Was Sane

About the author:
Lesley Hebert is a graduate of Simon Fraser University. Now retired from teaching English as a second language in the classroom, she teaches ESL to international students via Skype. She also writes on-line articles which reflect a lively, inquiring mind and a love of travel, language, history and culture.

Photo Credits:
Print of Neuschwanstein Castle, ten years after its completion. US Library of Congress: Public domain via Wikimedia Commons.
Clouds over the Bavarian mountains: Photo by Lesley Hebert.
Linderhof Palace. Photo by Mike Hebert.
Bedroom, Linderhof Palace. Karl Gritschke (1923-1990), uploaded by: Moros (Own work) Public domain via Wikimedia Commons.
The Venus Grotto, Schloss Linderhof. By Softeis. Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons.
Ludwig II, the Swan King (ca. 1864). M Jacob (ARTQUID.com). Public domain via Wikimedia Commons.

Tagged With: Bavaria attractions, Germany travel Filed Under: Europe Travel

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