Bulgaria
by Enzo Sardellaro
Bulgaria remains for me a mysterious country, mainly for the charm of its ancient history, where the enigmatic Thracians played a very important and significant role. Since antiquity its strategic geographical location was a natural bridge between Eastern and Western Europe. Bulgaria is a small country with a community of scarcely seven million people living within a territory that is neither too small nor too large. But if its territory is small, its history is very great.
The Greeks and the Romans have left an indelible stain upon the national character and culture of Bulgaria. Many people, different languages and cultures have crossed this territory, nowadays dotted with churches, monasteries and ancient ruins that testify to the rich history of this country. Bulgaria is a real cocktail of mountains, forests, fertile plains, rivers, lakes and hidden valleys where typical villages and ancient monasteries lie hidden within the beauty of the country landscape. The modern seaside resorts and beaches on the Black Sea display a great effect on me as nature lover who appreciates both the comfort and the natural beauty of this country.
As a history lover, I found several sites of interest, with their unique archaeological heritage. The country is rich in ancient relics, from Neolithic Age to Greek, Roman and Medieval times, the symbol of the ancient grandeur of one of the most well-documented people of antiquity, the Thracians, recognized as one of the most powerful people in the Ancient World. All cities have their own museum with Thracian, Hellenic and Roman treasures of amazing quality and interest, irrespective of many Orthodox churches and monasteries. It is difficult to leave Bulgaria without being held spellbound by its beautiful view.
The Thracians were an Indo-European people living since Paleolithic in Thrace, a region of indefinite boundaries of the Balkan Peninsula, bounded by the Black Sea and the Aegean Sea, the mountainous region of Sakar, Strandja and the mountain barrier of the Rhodopes. The eastern portion of this area corresponds to European Turkey, while the western area belongs to Bulgaria. In the 6th century BC the Thracians were subdued by the Persians, and then by the Athenians, the Macedonians and finally by the Romans during the 1st century BC.
The Thracians were considered both skilled horsemen and excellent warriors, but they also developed a high level of civilization. They were organized under chiefs or kings as a military aristocracy. The Thracians conquered Bulgaria and settled permanently in it. Several impressive artifacts of the Thracian civilization were found in many archaeological sites of Bulgaria, considered worthy of the tourist gaze. There are a lot of significant Thracian monuments and shrines in the ancient heart of Bulgaria, where the Thracians left us their rich historical and cultural heritage.
Ludogorie, the region of northeastern Bulgaria, is an area where there is the splendid archaeological site at Sboryanovo, filled with shrines, necropolis and monuments of incredible magnificence and splendor, such as the Sveshtary tomb [first half of the third century BC], with floral decorations which are interpreted as a symbol of fertility . The Sboryanovo reservation is also well-known for its enchanting landscape. Among other things, I visited the Starosel Thracian Tomb, near the village of Starosel, where ancient Orphic rites were practiced by the Thracians in memory of the mythic poet and singer Orpheus. At the time of the Thracians, the Rhodope Mountains were also known as the “Mountains of Orpheus,” where, according to the tradition, Orpheus lived, the most ancient poet of the world, who accompanied the Argonauts in search of the elusive Golden Fleece.
PRIVATE TOUR FROM SOFIA THRACAIN VALLEY
If You Go:
Bulgaria National History Museum, Sofia
Visit Bulgaria website
Bulgaria Wikitravel
History of Bulgaria
Enzo Sardellaro is a High School teacher specializing in Italian literature and history. He writes articles about several topics such as politics, society, science, travel and culture (literature, fine arts and history). worldliterature.altervista.org
Photo credits:
Tsarevets fortress in northern Bulgaria by Dennis Jarvis
The ancient Serdika fortress, Sofia by Apostoloff / CC BY-SA
by Sarah Humphreys 
An unknown architect finished the Basilica of San Vitale in 547 on the spot where St Vitalis was martyred by being buried alive. Richly ornamented mosaics inside depict scenes from The Old Testament, including the Sacrifice of Isaac, Moses and The burning bush and Cain and Abel. Decorative leaves, fruit and flowers encircle the Lamb of God on the vault of the presbytery. Glittering mosaics pay homage to the Emperor Justinian I and his Empress Theodora.
Exiting from the back of San Vitale, you will come across a small, ordinary-looking brick building, which contains Ravenna’s finest treasures. The powerful Roman Empress Galla Placidia, who wielded extreme power as regent for her young son Valentinian III, probably commissioned the tiny Mausoleum which bears her name. Shaped like a Greek cross, the building has sunk 4.5 feet into the ground due to subsidence. The limited space within the structure means visits are restricted to five minutes only, guaranteed to be intense moments.
The Basilica of San Apollinare Nuovo houses a series of impressive mosaics dating from 500 under rule of the Arian King Theodoric, which show scenes of Christ’s miracles, parables and The Passion. The lower rows of mosaics date from 560, when Ravenna was under Christian rule, and feature saints, martyrs and a procession of Virgins led by The Three Magi, sporting animal-print leggings. According to legend, Pope Gregory had the earlier mosaics blackened to prevent worshippers from being distracted, and many of the original Arian mosaics were removed. It is still possible to see some disembodied limbs that evaded destruction.
The Chapel of St Andrew, housed in the Archbishop’s museum, is the smallest private early Christian oratory to have survived until the present day. Dazzling mosaics create a shimmering tapestry of saints, angels and decorative motifs and 99 species of birds are shown against a splendid starry sky. Christ is shown as a warrior, crushing the figures of a serpent and a wild beast.
The only UNESCO World Heritage Site not to contain mosaics is the Mausoleum of Theodoric. Its unusual structure, consisting of two decagonal parts topped by a monolithic dome, is formed from Istrian stone blocks. The combination of Roman, Barbarian and Medieval architecture fascinated The Romantics and The Mausoleum was popular with tourists on The Grand Tour.
Other notable sites include the extraordinary underwater crypt in the cathedral of San Francesco, complete with goldfish, and the “House of Stone Carpet”, the remains of a Byzantine house complete with huge decorative floor mosaics. Just next to the Cathedral is the final resting place of Dante, who died in Ravenna in 1321. Although exiled form Florence in his lifetime, the city has continuously appealed for the great poet’s remains to be returned. Ravenna has constantly turned down this request. On the 2nd Sunday in September, olive oil donated by the city of Florence, is brought to Ravenna to light the lamb that hangs over Dante’s tomb.
Although the main sites in Ravenna could be seen in a day, it is well worth spending longer in this peaceful city. The place where Dante finished his “Divine Comedy” and Byron started writing “Don Juan”, was recently voted the number one place to live by “Il Sole 24 “ financial newspaper and it surely won’t take you long to see why.
The whitewashed village, lined with narrow cobblestone streets overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, is the oldest of the three as it was founded by the Moors. I was fortunate enough to be in Benalmádena Pueblo in June for the major celebration of Corpus Christi where thousands of locals and tourists gather on the streets to watch the holy procession honouring the Body of Christ. On the eve of this festivity, hundreds of locals congregate to elaborately adorn the altars and decorate their balconies and windows in the brightest coloured tapestries. The community also collaborates in transforming the main street into a work of art by arranging 78,000 vibrant flower blooms in the form of a fabulously designed floral carpet. Meanwhile, the smaller streets are strewn and perfumed with palm leaves, rose petals, lavender, and aromatic herbs such as rosemary and thyme.
Once the procession was over, I decided to indulge my curiosity by exploring what some have described as “the most beautiful place on earth.” I only knew that the Castillo Monumento Colomares was about a 15 minute walk from the center of the pueblo. However, no indication as to its whereabouts could be found anywhere along the remote area and I began to get discouraged in the blazing heat of the afternoon sun. Fortunately, after asking for directions several times, a cyclist appeared who knew how to get there.
Nearly an hour had passed since I left the pueblo and I found myself gasping in delight when it finally appeared around the corner amidst isolated trees and bushes on a small curvy road.
This enchanting structure was built during the late 20th century in memory of Columbus and the Discovery of America. The castle is actually the largest monument in the world dedicated to the Italian explorer. Seven years of work it took with the help of two bricklayers who incorporated several styles of architecture designed by a doctor. The castle, advertised as “a fantasy made by stone”, has 16 points of interest that include Isabella’s Castle, the Oriental Tower, and the Christmas Fortress of 1492. The complex also houses the smallest church in the world as listed in The Guinness Book of Records. The views of the Mediterranean Coast from this hidden gem adorned with decorative fountains, spiral staircases, and ornamental gates are magnificent, and I left wondering why the castle was not better promoted.
A 20 minute walk from the Colomares Castle is the Mariposario de Benalmádena or “Butterfly Park.” Known as the largest one of its kind in Europe, this tropical garden paradise set inside a Thai temple is home to over 1500 exotic butterflies. More than 150 different species reside here among cascading waterfalls, floral gardens, and tropical plants.
This urban residential town, nestled between the mountains and the sea, is home to several major family attractions and theme parks. Selwo Marina Delfinarium is the only one of its kind in the Andalusian region where you can feed penguins and swim with dolphins and sea lions. Tivoli World is a popular theme park known as the largest on the Costa del Sol. Across the entrance is the Teleférico or cable cars that take you to Mount Calamorro in 15 minutes where you can savour views of the coast and on clear days, Gibraltar and North Africa as well.
Paloma Park is a vast and serene gated area perfect for an afternoon stroll by the great lake on paved walkways adorned by plants, gardens, statues, and fountains. Peacocks, roosters, geese, ducks, pigeons, doves, and rabbits all call this park their home.
By the entrance to the Marina stands the Moorish lookout tower, Torre Bermeja (Reddish Tower), the oldest of three that remain along the coast of Benalmádena. These cylindrical towers were raised to warn against the enemy ships approaching from North Africa. Although reconstructed during the 16th century, the tower first appears in documents dated to the 13th century. Of 16th century Christian origin are Torre Quebrada (Broken Tower) and Torre Muelle (Dock Tower) in the nearby, namesake suburbs of Torrequebrada and Torremuelle respectively.
However, the main landmark of Benalmádena Costa is the stunning, burgundy palace known as the Castillo El Bil-Bil. The Moroccan-style structure was built on the seafront in 1930 for a wealthy Spanish-French family. Seven years later it was purchased by an American family who lived here for 30 years. When asking about the curious name, Salvador, the caretaker informed me that the names of the American family were Elsa (El) who was married to William (Bil) and both had a son together also named William (Bil.).
Within the lovely gardens of El Bil-Bil is the monument to Ibn al-Baytar, an illustrious scholar born in Benalmádena during Moorish rule. The commemorative plaque reads in Spanish and English; Ibn al-Baytar – The distinguished botanist and pharmacologist born in Benalmádena: Benalmádena 1197 – Damascus 1248. Al-Baytar became one of the most renowned scientists of the Middle Ages. He is further immortalized and remembered as the most famous personality in the history of Benalmádena.
Beneath the golden vault of the Eglise du Dome Church lie the remains of the slight statured Corsican who became France’s greatest soldier. Within his massive crypt, Napoléon’s mystique looms large in death as it did during his lifetime. Hitler was so moved by his visit that as a tribute to the French emperor, he decreed that Napoléon’s son’s coffin be moved from Vienna to lie beside his father.
About the authors:
The coastal town of Salobrena is 10 km east of Almunecar. The coastline to Salobrena along the tropical coast is wild and rugged. To the left the awesome peaks of the Sierra Nevada and to the right the glistening blue of the Mediterranean. Salobrena stands unmolested by mass tourism, although now boasts an eighteen hole golf course. In the winter, the snow capped Sierra Nevada provides a magnificent backdrop to the green of the third hole.
Further down the coast Almeria is home to yet another imposing castle. The drive from Salobrena takes about an hour and the terrain changes dramatically. Gone are the orange groves and fertile valleys to be replaced by a sea of plastic posing as green-houses – a scar on the landscape. From these eyesores the mountains become rocky, yielding neither crop nor greenery.
The castle underwent changes under different Moslem governors, such as Almanazor and Havran the Slave, the fist independent ruler-lord of Almeria, who extended the walled area of the city towards the plain by three times the size of the original city of Almedina. The time of Banu Somahdis brought an era of splendour and was the setting for a cultured and literary court in the 11th Century. Later, in the 14th and 15th Centuries, under the Kings of Granada, it retained only its role as a coastal defence. It underwent two sieges, which demonstrated its effectiveness as a fortress; one in 1147, when it fell for the first time to the Christians of Alfonso VII, who was helped by the Genoese, the Catalans and the people of Pisa; and the other in 1309, which lasted a year, when James II of Aragon failed to take the castle.
