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Secrets of Cave Hill Revealed

Belfast Castle exterior

Historic Belfast, Northern Ireland

by John Rooney

When the first rays of sunlight break through the cold early morning mist, to reveal the uppermost peaks of Belfast’s Cave Hill, it’s easy for me to see why it’s said to have inspired Jonathan Swift to write his most well known novel, Gulliver’s Travels.

Cave Hill, BelfastSilhouetted against the palest blue sky, the craggy basalt summit forms the outline of a man staring upwards and into heavens. Known locally as ‘Napoleon’s Nose’ it not only bears an uncanny resemblance to the famous emperor, but is also reminiscent of the sleeping giant in the classic tale.

Rising to over 1200 feet above sea level, the Cave Hill is Belfast’s most prominent feature and despite being only a few miles from the city centre it is perhaps one of Northern Ireland’s best kept secrets. Originally known in Gaelic as Beann Mheadagáin (the Hill of Madigan), named after an ancient king, the hill now takes its name from a number of caves which are thought to be early iron mines, dug into its steep rock face.

As well as providing the perfect hunting ground for peregrines, kestrels and ravens, the hill is home to Belfast Castle, Zoological gardens and some of the finest woodland trails to be found anywhere. The summit provides panoramic views of Belfast Lough and is also the site of several primordial raths (forts), dating back to between 400 – 1200 AD.

In Victorian times Limestone was mined on the hill’s southern flanks, then transported to Belfast Docks by a horse-drawn railway system and two hamlets, ‘Mammystown and Daddystown,’ were built on either side of the track to accommodate quarry workers. The railway was abandoned in the 1890s and the two villages are nothing more than references on survey maps of the time. But many streets and avenues close to the hill bear the name ‘Waterloo,’ in reference to their geological origins.

During the Second World War Belfast’s shipbuilding industry was heavily bombed by the German Luftwaffe and on one such raid a bomb was dropped on the Cave Hill, causing a huge crater close to Belfast Castle. And sadly on 1st June 1944, while flying through thick fog, an American B-17 bomber crashed into the Cave Hill, killing all ten crew members instantly. The site of the unfortunate incident is marked with a plaque in the grounds of the Zoological Gardens.

Being a native of Belfast I’ve walked these hills many times and usually approach via the Hightown Road entrance. There’s a small car-park marked with two stone pillars. On my left is thick woodland which occasionally gives way to reveal the underlying basalt, while on my right the hillside descends into a vista of vibrant green valleys and dense vegetation.

The hardcore path makes my ascent relatively straightforward (if somewhat breathless due to the sometimes steep incline), and it isn’t long before I’m making my way through a patchwork of yellowish-brown heathers and bog cotton. Meadow Pipits and Skylarks provide a pleasant chorus over the open moor-land and there’s a strong westerly breeze that swirls around my legs, threatening to throw me of the rugged cliffs should I venture too close to the edge.

looking down toward Belfast LoughBelow me, Belfast Lough reflects the bluish-grey tones of the sky, as it makes its way past Carrickfergus and into the Irish Sea, where I can just make out the ashen outline of the Isle of Man.

Straight ahead and some five miles across the lough, the small costal towns of Bangor, Hollywood and Newcastle, nestle beneath the safety of the cornflower-blue Mourne Mountains. On my right Harland and Wolfe’s two colossal yellow cranes, mark not only the birth place of the Titanic, but are reminder that during the late 19th century Belfast was the industrial capital of Europe.

McArts FortFurther along the track and McArts Fort comes into view. The huge grass covered mound measuring 150 feet by 180 feet, is the remains of an ancient circular fort and balances somewhat precariously on an almost vertical slab of rock. It’s hardly surprising that the United Irishmen, Wolfe Tone and Henry Joy McCracken, chose this exact spot to plot the Irish rebellion of 1798. With its inaccessible cliffs and views of the surrounding area, it’s the perfect place to conspire treason.

On passing the fort I begin my descent along the narrow track past the Devil’s Punchbowl (an area of boulders, where it’s believed ancient Celtic farmers corralled their cattle), to enter the castle estate. The air is heavy with the pungent aroma of wild Garlic and the overhead trees grant me respite from the mid-day sun. The trees provide the perfect habitat for a variety of woodland birds and if I’m lucky I might catch a fleeting glimpse of a grey squirrel, or towards dusk a hedgehog or badger.

tree-lined path leads to Belfast CastleAfter crossing a narrow stream, no wider than an average persons step, I make my way along the tree lined avenue that leads to Belfast Castle. The castle is a large sandstone building, built in the Scottish Baronial style and was designed by John Lanyon in 1867, as home to the 3rd Marquis of Donegall. Construction was completed in 1870 and following the Marquis’ death in 1884, it became home to Shaftesbury’s.

The Shaftesbury’s were well known for supporting local charities and held fetes within the castle grounds, and in 1907 the 9th Earl of Shaftesbury was appointed Lord Mayor of Belfast. The castle bears witness to both families; the Donegall coat of arms can be seen above the front door and on the building’s north wall, whilst a section of the Shaftesbury crest appears on the exterior Italian style, serpentine staircase.

Belfast City Council took control in 1934, when the family presented the castle and surrounding estate to the city. Then following a major refurbishment program instigated by the council in 1978 and costing £2 million, the castle is now a popular venue for wedding receptions and conferences.

cat statue in Belfast Castle gardenAdjacent to the castle is the ‘cat garden.’ Legend has it that the castle has always had a resident white cat and that those visiting the castle will have good luck, provided the tradition is maintained. It’s thought that the custom began when a sociable feline befriended the castle’s gardeners and as I make my way down the stone steps leading to the garden, I feel certain that some good fortune will come my way.

The garden’s centre piece is a small decorative fountain where a bronze feline slumbers in the summer sun. On either side of the water feature set in red brick paving, two mosaic felines welcome me to their home, whilst below me a feline carefully sculpted from the semi-evergreen ‘Privet’ soaks up the tranquil atmosphere. There are nine cats for nine lives depicted in the garden’s furniture and paving. My favorite is a statuesque mouser who sits elegantly in a bed of Roseglow (above).

The castle has a bar, restaurant and an antique shop. But before I enter for some much needed refreshment, I’ll take a seat on one of the wooden benches and just like those who first inhabited the hill over 1200 years ago, I’ll watch the sun setting over Belfast Lough.

If You Go:

The Cave Hill is susceptible to extreme weather conditions, whilst some of its cliffs are hazardous and are not suitable for amateurs. Sturdy footwear and waterproof clothing is advisable. For full details on how to get there and to download a PDF map of the advised route please visit:
www.belfastcity.gov.uk To learn about Jonathan Swift and Gulliver’s Travels: www.incompetech.com

Belfast Tours Now Available:

Belfast History Walking Tour The Ultimate Belfast experience

Belfast Mural Political Black Cab Tour

Titanic Walking Tour in Belfast

Guided Tour of Crumlin Road Gaol in Belfast

Full-Day Trip from Belfast: The Ultimate Game of Thrones Experience including Winterfell, Direwolves and Replica Throne

About the author:
John Rooney is a freelance writer and photographer working and living in County Antrim, Northern Ireland. His work has appeared in a variety of magazines and features regularly in ‘Ireland’s Own’. John’s website is www.freewebs.com/johnrooney1 His blog is at http://jon1words.blogspot.com Email: wordwelder58@yahoo.com

All photos are by John Rooney.

Tagged With: Belfast, Northern Ireland travel Filed Under: UK Travel

The Tall Ships Races

Italian tall ship

Liverpool, England

by Maggie B. Dickinson

Around a million visitors were expected to descend on Liverpool’s World Heritage waterfront between the 18th and 21st July to watch the ceremonies and departure of The Tall Ships’ Races 2008. But as everyone gathered for the final highlight – the “Parade of Sail” – it appeared to me as though the entire population of England was lining the banks of the famous River Mersey.

tall ship at dock in LiverpoolSomething I’ve always wanted to do is cross the Mersey on a ferry whilst singing Gerry and The Pacemakers’ hit from 1964 “Ferry ‘Cross the Mersey”. So for a better view I’d decided to go on one of the special cruises. Not surprisingly they were all fully booked.

The fleet of tall ships, that is both spectacular and unique, was the largest ever to grace British waters, being made up of around 70 vessels, including representatives from countries as far apart as Bulgaria, Oman, Brazil and Mexico. On board were a mind-boggling 8,000 trainees and crew. In its year as European Capital of Culture the hosting of the Tall Ships’ Races is one of the highlights in Liverpool’s fascinating and imaginative calendar of events. This is the third time, in over 50 years’ existence, that the Tall Ships have been hosted by Liverpool – a city that is well qualified to organise events featuring the ocean because if its 800 years of maritime history.

The significance of the occasion was emphasised by the presence of HRH Princess Anne, Princess Royal, herself no stranger to this important city, who officially opened proceedings on the 18th July as well as inspecting a couple of the vessels. This was followed by a weekend during which the general public were able to view and go aboard the ships. Indeed, an informal visit was made by HRH Prince Andrew, Duke of York. He served 22 years in the Royal Navy, which supports the Tall Ships’ Races, and saw action in the Falklands War.

Brazilian tall shipThe smaller ships – Classes B, C and D were berthed at Canning and Albert Docks, with the Class A big boys at Wellington and Sandon Half-Tide Docks. Included at Wellington was a ship that caters for people with disabilities – the Lord Nelson. The Royal Navy’s supply ship RFA Lyme Bay was hosted at the new Cruise Liner Terminal landing stage on Princes Parade, with the Royal Marines’ Band not only on board but giving band concerts at various places around the town too.

Clearly all the stops had been pulled out to organise the wide range of vital services that needed putting in place in readiness for the numbers who were expected to descend on the city because, as island people, the Brits love anything nautical. It is said that Merseyside Police had been planning the event for a whole year and it is pleasing to note that it all went smoothly and without any major incidents.

Liverpool knows how to do fun: it has had a lot of practise and music runs through this city’s veins like nowhere else. For one thing it’s the original home of the sea shanty and the non profit-making enterprise “Shanties 08” ensured this traditional genre was covered at venues throughout the city.

All weekend the streets leading away from the train and bus stations were thronged wall-to-wall with happy folk, stopping now and again on their way to the docks to listen to and join in with the various music combos. Dotted en route were a wide range of feet-tapping attractions – Latino groups playing panpipes, Native American Indians with flutes and drums, West Indians with their bongos, Bob Dylan sound-alikes strumming guitars, whilst through the open windows and doors of Liverpool’s ancient and modern inns came the sound of karaoke singers belting out the latest hits.

deck and rigging of a French tall shipThe British are well versed at patiently forming queues but Liverpool had reckoned on the mounting anticipation of a vast crowd who would be standing six deep along the harbour for hours, waiting for the ships to take part in the “Parade of Sail”. To keep us happy the organizers had provided a death-defying air spectacular by The Yakovlevs Formation and Aerobatic Display Team that had the crowd gasping and clapping and cheering, especially when one of the nerveless pilots pretended to take his plane into a suicidal dive but pulled back from the sea at the very last moment.

The “Parade of Sail” is the traditional run-up to departure and it gave everyone a final chance to see each vessel in full splendour before the fleet left for a point off Northern Ireland where the first race would take place on the 23rd July. It was led by HMS Argyll, followed by the Stavros S Niarchos.

For hours we were entertained to one glorious vessel after another, with a few minutes’ gap between each so that we could really savour each and every one and give them our undivided attention as they glided majestically through the water, with or without sail. Shades of the long ago, reminders of our great explorers, envious of those who were aboard and able to take part in this great event.

Greek tall shipThe main objective of the races, which cover a period of five weeks, focuses on the sail training of youth, 48 of whom are being funded by Liverpool City Council. Another 48, sponsored by Tall Ships Youth Trust (Merseyside), helped sail the ships from London. Their involvement, as well as that of the officers and crews, is intended to foster good international relationships, friendships and understanding and to promote teamwork and leadership.

The initial race is of 11 days’ duration across the North Sea to Måly in Norway. After the buzz of Liverpool, picturesque Måly, with a backdrop of islands and mountains, will appear a tiny place with its 4,000 inhabitants living around one of the smallest ports ever to have hosted the Tall Ships’ Races.

The ships take a break there from 9th to 12th August, followed by a cruise-in-company to Bergen in Norway along a route that will cover the coast, and fjords which can stretch 100 miles in length. Highlights of this journey will be glaciers, mountains and huge waterfalls too. Several ports are accommodating the ships and visitors, along with providing free berthing and lots of activities for the crews.

tall ship sailing in Liverpool harborIt will be the third time Bergen has played host to the Tall Ships’ Races. It is a city of museums and wooden houses that fan out over steep hillsides, from what is considered one of the world’s most beautiful natural harbours. A full programme of events is planned to occupy the time before the start of the second race which takes eight days for the fleet to arrive at Den Helder in the Netherlands where the final celebrations occur between the 20th and 23rd of the month.

Den Helder is 80 km north of Amsterdam to which it is linked by the North Holland Canal. Until the beginning of the 19th century it was a tiny village dependent on fishing which, along with textiles, is still the town’s main economy. It is also the prime seaport for offshore sailing. There are several monuments of a maritime nature and the naval fortifications go back to Napoleonic times. Of note is its lighthouse which is made of cast-iron and carries the distinction of being the tallest in Europe.

It seems a likely and befitting place for the final prize-giving ceremonies, which include the presentation of the much-coveted award of the Friendship Trophy which, for me, is symbolic of what the Tall Ships’ Races are all about.

For More Information:

Visit Liverpool
Tall Ships Tracking Map
Culture Liverpool: Three Festivals Tall Ships Regatta 2018 & Liverpool Bordeaux Wine Festival
Sail Training International
Tall Ship Races in Bergen, Norway
Mersey Ferries

Liverpool Tours Now Available:

Mersey River Explorer Cruise from Liverpool
Private Beatles Tour of Liverpool by Taxi
Private Half-Day Peaky Blinders Tour of Liverpool
Liverpool FC Football Match at Anfield Stadium
Liverpool Ghost Walking Tour

About the author:
Maggie Dickinson lives in England’s North West. She has written on travel, local history and outdoor pursuits. Two of her articles on caring for her late husband, who had Alzheimer’s Disease, were published in US anthologies. Her special interest is photographing and writing about lesser-known areas and backwaters of the UK.

Photographs:
All photos are by Margaret B (Maggie) Dickinson.

Tagged With: England travel, Liverpool Filed Under: UK Travel

Notting Hill Carnival: UK’s Biggest Street Party

women dancing in Notting Hill Carnival

London, England

by Cindy-Lou Dale

When the Trinidadians first arrived in England they longed for their elaborate carnivals back home. Dressed in elaborate costumes, pounding on steel drums they began a small procession through the streets.

parade of costum wearing peopleNow, some 42 years later, the Notting Hill Carnival has become a full-blown Caribbean celebration, second only to that held in Rio. It attracts multi-cultural participation and draws millions of spectators from all over the world.

The Notting Hill Carnival began through the energies of West Indian immigrants from the Caribbean, in particular, Trinidad, where the carnival tradition is very strong. Together with other local folk, they conjured up a dream of creating a festival to bring together the Caribbean people of Notting Hill, most of who were facing racism, unemployment and poor living conditions, prevalent in the 50s era of racial tension.

Back then dances were organised in halls in North London, where West Indian and African immigrants could come together freely. At the same time Trinidadian steel band music was being played each Sunday at a local pub in Earls Court. From this evolved the idea of inviting the steel bands to partake in a street festival in Notting Hill, thus encouraging people, especially children, to come onto the streets and express themselves socially as well as artistically. Once the West Indians of Notting Hill heard the first tunes of the steel bands, they immediately took the opportunity to dance and perform in London’s streets.

In Trinidad, slaves were historically forbidden to wear costumes or play musical instruments. Tamboo, bamboo and hand drums were outlawed. The West Indians were also banned from going out after dark, unless they were accompanied by their masters. When the laws were repealed and freedom from slavery was announced in 1833, the slaves took to the streets in song and dance. Deprived of traditional rhythmic instruments, they took any object they could find, including garbage can lids, old car parts and empty oil barrels and used their artistic skills to mimic their masters and pour scorn of the system that had enslaved them for so long. The newly freed slaves would dress like their masters, powder their faces to look pale or make masks to resemble their former oppressors, distorting images and features if they regarded them as particularly evil.

These celebrations of freedom provided the only opportunity for the former slaves to express their feelings towards the inhumanity they experiences. They quickly developed the art of costume making, creating fantastic ensembles which satirised their situation as Africans, transported to the Caribbean to become slaves.

woman wearing calypso wardrobeIn London today, their tradition continues, as local immigrants from around the world take part and associate themselves with the Notting Hill Carnival. The skills of costume making, steel drumming and the traditional Caribbean calypso folk music has made these celebrations what they are today – an explosion of fun, food, culture, colour, art, music and a Mardi Gras atmosphere which turns the vibrant borough of Notting Hill into Europe’s biggest street party.

The carnival is always held on the last bank holiday weekend in August and operates an all inclusive policy encouraging artists to celebrate their cultural traditions through art, dance and music; a celebration of life which Trinidadians everywhere are justifiably proud of.

The carnival warms up on the Saturday with spectacular floats and handsome costumed masqueraders emerging at around 12 noon. They dance and cajole the spectators along the parade route, and may even evoke a smile from one of the many policemen overseeing the festivities, which covers approximately three miles. By Sunday, with the Children’s Day Parade, the carnival is in full swing, with the main event happening on Monday. The carnival officially finishes each day at 7 pm, but the parties continue into the small hours in London’s clubs and bars.

couple dancing in Notting Hill CarnivalIn addition to pan bands, there are scores of massive mobile and static sound systems spread throughout the area pumping out a range of music, including hip-hop, house, basement, acid jazz, jungle, R&B and reggae, at mind-numbing volume. Expect live instruments, Latin vibes, chunky Carnival beats and more than a few surprises such as Ms Dynamite, Sean Paul, Mos Def and Dizzee Rascal. A carnival map shows you where to find the large rigs and tell you what type of music they specialise in.

There are hundreds of licensed stalls lining the streets. The wafts of thyme, coconut, ginger, nutmeg and cinnamon will guide you to the exotic foods being served from around the world, including traditional Caribbean dishes such as curried goat, fried dumplings, ackee and salt fish, plantain, jerk chicken, steamed cabbage, and rice and peas.

Through the West Indian community’s historic efforts in bringing together the locals, the Notting Hill Carnival has grown to include members of the Afghan community, Kurdistan, Bangladesh, the Philippines, Bulgaria, Russia, Brazil – compelling them to draw on all aspects of their own cultural heritage.

Notting Hill Carnival is the biggest festival in Europe and in carnival terms is second only to Rio. It’s fantastic, it’s vibrant, energetic, it’s for everyone – and it’s free. At the Notting Hill Carnival every spectator is a participant.

If You Go:

When: Last ‘long weekend’ in August – starting at around 12 noon until 7pm.
Where: London, England: Notting Hill, Holland Park and neighbouring areas.
Getting there: Some Tube stations are closed and roads blocked off. Check the Transport for London website for details.


Notting Hill Tour

About the author:
Cindy is an award winning writer and photojournalist whose been featured in numerous publications across the globe. She heralds from a small farming community in Southern Africa and has since lived in 18 countries. Currently her roots are in a village on the Kent coast in England.

Photo Credits:
First Notting Hill Carnival women photo by David Sedlecký / CC BY-SA
All other photos are by Cindy Lou Dale.

Tagged With: London travel, Notting hill Filed Under: UK Travel

Touring the Thames

London skyline including the Eye

The Architectural Jewels of London

by Guylaine Spencer

England’s Thames River is one of the most celebrated bodies of water in the world. The section that runs through London and its outskirts has inspired artists for centuries. On my last trip to London, I discovered the reasons for its reputation when I toured the river on two boat trips: one from Westminster Pier in London to Greenwich Pier, the other from the city of Richmond to Hampton Court.

Thames River, LondonOne of the first things you notice on any Thames trip is how many of England’s political, economic and cultural icons are situated on its banks. Chief among them is The Palace of Westminster, the home of the British Parliament, with its famous Clock Tower and Big Ben bells. Although this site has been occupied by England’s rulers since King Canute built his residence here in 1016, most of the sprawling neo-Gothic structure you see today only dates back to about 1840-1870. This is because the bulk of the older palace was destroyed in 1834 by a fire. Westminster Hall is the oldest surviving remnant, dating back to 1097. The hall has seen its share of coronations, royal trials and funerals. It’s still used every year by the Queen for the State Opening of Parliament.

Tower Bridge, LondonFurther east along the river lie the Tower of London and the Tower Bridge. The bridge opened in 1894, but the Tower is much older. Ironically, this foreign-looking Norman fortress built of French stone is considered the most important castle in English history. In 1078, William the Conquerer ordered its construction to protect his new territory from invaders, and to overawe and terrify his new English subjects. William took advantage of the work of earlier conquerors and built his fortress into the side of a Roman wall. For five centuries, in addition to defensive purposes, the Tower served as a royal residence. After that, the building became primarily a prison and place of execution. The wheels of fate have turned again, and today the castle is one of the city’s top tourist attractions. In addition to showing off the Crown Jewels, its current promoters like to play up its lurid past; the Tower has seen its share of murdered innocents — Anne Boleyn, Lady Grey and the Little Princes, to name just a few. Even now, the building gives off a foreboding aura and looks as if, at any moment, blood may start to run down its lily-white walls.

fountain at Hampton Court palaceHampton Court Palace, on the other hand, twelve miles west of the London, impresses visitors with a very different sensation. Is it the red brick walls, the chimney pots, or the sixty acres of gardens that enclose it on three sides that makes it feel so warm and domestic? Perhaps this aura has something to do with the fact that it was originally built as a home for a private citizen, Archbishop Wolsey. Historians tell us that Wolsey’s new home was so grand that it inflamed the jealousy of the king. Word soon spread that Henry had plans to seize the property and throw the cardinal in prison. To escape this fate, Wolsey offered the property to the King as a gift instead.

The Queen’s House, at Greenwich, is another former royal residence. For readers with a taste for the romantic, this one comes with a tragic tale. King James I originally planned it for his wife, Queen Anne. Construction began in 1616 but before it could be completed, Anne died. Work on the building was abandoned for ten years, when another king, Charles I, took it up again and had it finished for his wife. Later, the building served as a naval school and it is now part of the National Maritime Museum. The American White House was based on this serene and classically inspired building.

Given the number of palaces that dot the Thames, it’s easy to picture the parade of royal barges and boats filled with liveried nobility floating down the river from one luxurious home to the next, entertained by musicians playing Handel’s Water Music. But this famous royal highway has always been shared with “tinkers, tailors, soldiers and sailors” as well. You can still see the architectural legacy that England’s commoners left behind, in the wharves, warehouses, mills and factories that line its banks.

Greenwich pier with Cutty Sark mooredThe Romans were the first to make London an international port back in the first century A.D. During the sixteenth century the area became a major shipbuilding centre. In the eighteenth century the port was crowded with the world’s ships waiting to dock and unload. Throughout the nineteenth century and right up to the World War II, London’s port was the busiest on the planet. If you want to learn more about the role of the port in England’ s economic history or just hear some stories about the “romance of the sea,” disembark at Greenwich and make your way to the National Maritime Museum. While you’re there, stop in and pay a visit to that old tea clipper, the Cutty Sark, too, which lies just off Greenwich Pier.

While the heroes of England’s imperial and seafaring age were her mariners, the heroes of her industrial revolution were her factory workers. Their home was then Southwark, on the south bank of the Thames. Many of the factories and warehouses that laborers used to haunt have been converted into pricey condominiums, but the structures still retain a pragmatic, workaday look. Dickens, who at the age of twelve was held in debtor’s prison in this district, described the lives of workers in this area in some of his books.

Somerset House, LondonThe Thames has been called “a string of pearls,” a fitting description when you consider numerous cultural sites that line its banks. One of the most striking jewels is Somerset House, constructed for King George III and opened in 1776. The current building boasts dramatic entrances on both the Strand and the Embankment sides. The structure was designed to house not only the offices of the navy, the tax office and the royal barges, but the Royal Academy of Art, the Royal Society and the Society of Antiquaries. Today, the grand neo-classical building shelters The Courtauld Institute of Art, Gilbert Collection and the Hermitage Rooms.

Another cultural gem that travelers can spot from a boat ride on the Thames is Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre, or rather a faithful reconstruction of the original Globe that once stood a few streets south of this location. The building which opened in 1997 is constructed of oak and water reed thatch and covered in white lime wash. Even if you don’t get a chance to see a play, you can still take a guided tour and visit a permanent exhibit about the history of theatre. Fans of the stage will also be happy to catch a glimpse of the twentieth-century National Theatre and Royal Festival Hall as they glide along the Thames.

London is a city of monuments, and the most famous one of all is simply called The Monument. That spire you see from the river was designed by the city’s most famous architect, Christopher Wren, to commemorate the Great Fire of 1666. After the disaster, Wren almost single-handedly rebuilt London’s churches, including his famous masterpiece: St. Paul’s Cathedral. Its impressive dome looms large on the city’s skyline and is the second biggest in the world.

Most of the beloved treasures along the Thames have stood the test of time. However, there are some recent additions of note. Three in particular that opened around the millennium come to mind.

Millennium Bridge across the ThamesThere’s the Tate Modern Art Gallery, opened in May 2000, which is housed in a converted power plant. Nearby is the Millennium Bridge (opened in June 2000), a pedestrian pathway connecting St. Paul’s Cathedral with the Tate. The narrow structure rests upon tapering metal pier heads that resemble the upturned fins of sea monsters. Perhaps this explains why it’s so shaky and had to close down two days after it opened when it began to sway uncontrollably. After tests lasting two years, the bridge reopened. However, it still feels.well, wobbly!

Finally, there’s that striking new landmark, the London Eye. In what looks like the world’s biggest Ferris wheel (technically, it isn’t one), adventurers can ride the 140 meters to the top for a unique view of the Thames and London at large.

It remains to be seen whether recent additions to this history-drenched landscape will be standing beside their famous fellows a hundred years from now. We can only hope that the older treasures that have lined its banks for so long will remain as well, a century from now, to awe and inspire future visitors to the Thames.

If You Go:

Visit London: www.visitlondon.com
River Thames: www.riverthames.co.uk
Historic royal palaces: www.hrp.org.uk
Greenwich: www.greenwichwhs.org.uk
Somerset House: www.somersethouse.org.uk
Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre: www.somersethouse.org.uk

London Tours Now Available:

Literary Pub Crawl and Tavern Tour in London
Haunted London Pub Walking Tour
Private Best of London Tour: Sights and Secrets
Jack the Ripper and Sherlock Holmes Tour of Haunted London
London Literary Walking Tour Of Bloomsbury

About the author:
Guylaine Spencer is a Canadian writer specializing in travel, history and the arts.
Contact: www.freelancesuccess.com/guylaine

Photo credits:
First London photo by Mavis CW on Unsplash
Cutty Sark, Greenwich by © User:Colin / Wikimedia Commons
All other photos are by Guylaine Spencer.

Tagged With: England travel, London attractions Filed Under: UK Travel

Honoring England’s Protestant Martyrs

Tower of London, 1737

Anne Askew and Her “Brothers”

by Kathy Simcox

Over the years I’ve developed a passion for the English Reformation. Although, until two years ago, I never knew England actually had a Reformation of its own. Being Lutheran, I knew all about Martin Luther and his 95 Theses of 1517 and a tiny clue as to who Henry VIII, Edward VI, Mary I, and Elizabeth I all were. But I didn’t know the impact of Luther’s ideas on the wider world, England’s world in particular. During a recent trip to England, armed with an appropriate amount of knowledge, I toured from Devon and Cornwall, to London and Kent and came face-to-face with many of the English Reformation sites, including sites dedicated to many of the martyrs, both Catholic and Protestant, executed for their beliefs.

plaque comemmorating three Salisbury Protestant martyrs burned in 1156In the town of Salisbury, home of the famous Salisbury Cathedral, three Protestant martyrs were burned in 1156. One of them because he called the Pope an Antichrist. At Oxford University, the Archbishop of Canterbury Thomas Cranmer, Bishop Hugh Latirmer and clergyman Nicolas Ridley were all accused of heresy in 155 and burned at the entrance gate of Balliol College. It is said the gate still bears the scorch marks.

The English Reformation can go down in history as one of the bloodiest events in England’s history. Hundreds of Christians lost their lives during this upheaval in the 16th century. Almost 300 Protestants were executed during the five-year reign of “Bloody” Mary I and throughout the English Reformation 350 Catholics suffered the same fate, many under Elizabeth I.

Between 1535 and 1681, over a hundred Catholics were executed at Tyburn Convent, located at the northeastern corner of Hyde Park in London. This was the site of The King’s Gallows for six centuries. Those accused of treason were hung, drawn and quartered here. John Houghton, a Carthusian Prior, was the first Catholic to be hanged at Tyburn. He was sent to the rope in 1535 because he refused to acknowledge the supremacy of Henry VIII over the Church of England. Another martyr, a Catholic priest named Ralph Sherwin, was accused of conspiring to murder Queen Elizabeth I and sentenced to hang in 1581.

Smithfield MarketIn the shadow of St. Paul’s Cathedral, situated at the intersection of Little Britain and West Smithfield is Smithfield, a livestock market dating back 800 years, one of the oldest markets in London. The area was once known as the execution site for 50 Protestants who met their end by fire. I visited Smithfield the first Sunday of my London journey. It was eerily quiet that morning, barely a person about, so I was able to absorb the historical immensity of the place, a truly emotional experience.

martyrs plaque on St. Bartholomew’s HospitaAcross the street from Smithfield Market, embedded in the wall of St. Bartholomew’s Hospital, is a plaque dedicated to these martyrs. Three are named: John Rogers, who became a Protestant after meeting the author of the first English translation of the New Testament, William Tyndale, in Antwerp; John Philpot, Archdeacon of Winchester; and John Bradford, prebend of St. Paul’s church. These men met their fate in the mid 1500’s while Bloody Mary occupied the throne.

All of these martyrs, both Catholic and Protestant, deserve to have their stories told. But one young woman in particular has mysteriously captured my heart has mysteriously captured my heart: Anne Askew. For her tragic tale, we must first go back to the events that triggered the English Reformation.

Henry VIII (1509 – 1547) was a Catholic and remained so throughout his life. He loved the ceremonies, the structure and the traditions of the Catholic Church, and considered Martin Luther a heretic. For this he was called Fidei Defensor, or “Defender of the Faith” in England. However, as much as Henry hated Luther, he hated the Pope even more. This was the result of his desire to annul his marriage to Catherine of Aragon and the church’s harsh reaction toward it. As king, one of his responsibilities to his people was to secure the throne with a male heir. His marriage to Catherine had produced the future Queen Mary. This was a problem as women heirs to the throne were highly frowned upon. Out of frustration he sought the help of his cardinal and favorite, Thomas Wolsey. Wolsey was sent on a mission to Rome to appeal for Henry’s divorce. The Pope wouldn’t hear of it and so just as quickly as the “Great Cardinal” came into favor with Henry, he fell right back out again. Another, Thomas Cromwell, replaced him.

martyrdom of William TyndaleCromwell had Protestant sympathies. Thanks to the advent of the printing press, Luther’s ideas were being spread throughout the western world. Parliament was already pushing for church reform and reform ideas were being talked about in many educational centers like Oxford. Between the years 1529 and 1536, Henry held seven parliaments, during which Henry was declared the Supreme Head of Church and State in England, granting him freedom to do whatever he pleased with his marriage to Catherine giving him freedom to marry Anne Boleyn, in hopes of producing a male heir. “The King’s Great Matter”, as Henry’s divorce issues were known, and all of the changes brought about by it, prepared England for her long and bloody journey toward Protestantism.

All of these activities wouldn’t go unnoticed by a 25-year-old poet and preacher from Lincolnshire. Anne Askew was born of a noble family in 1521 and forced into and unhappy marriage at the tender age of 15. Anne not only rebelled against her husband by refusing his surname, she rebelled against his Catholic beliefs as well. Her strong Protestant convictions caused her husband to throw her out of the home. She left him and their two children and traveled to London to preach against the doctrine of transubstantiation (the literal presence of Christ’s body and blood at the Eucharist) and to distribute Protestant literature. She had connections with ladies at Queen Catherine Parr’s Protestant court, but even threatened with torture she wouldn’t reveal any names as to do so would mean their downfall, including the queen’s herself.

Anne Askew martyrdomThese acts landed Anne in the Tower of London, charged with heresy. She was tortured on the Rack so badly that when it came time for her execution at Smithfield in 1546, she had to be carried to the scaffold on a chair since she was unable to walk. She could still write, however, and wrote many letters from prison, including a hymn that resonates with a maturity and depth of faith well beyond her 25 years. The first stanza reads:

“Like an armed knight appointed to the field, with this world I will fight and Faith shall be my shield.”

She also wrote a first-person account of her ordeal, published in John Bale’s Examinations and later in John Foxe’s Acts and Monuments of these Latter and Perilous Days, touching Matters of the Church (Foxe’s Book of Martyrs) in 1563.

Anne Askew cell in Tower of LondonI had read only a few things about Anne Askew and though I knew who she was and the reason she died, I didn’t really consider anything more about her other than her trial and execution at Smithfield. In fact, she was the main reason I penciled Smithfield into my itinerary in the first place. So imagine my surprise when, as I explored the inside the Bloody Tower at the Tower of London, I walked right into her cell. I had just visited the room where the Rack and other replicas of torture instruments were being displayed. As I climbed up the steps I noticed a tiny, yet intriguing room and ventured inside and glanced around. The room was about five feet by five feet and barely ten feet high with one arched window embedded in the wall. As I turned back toward the doorway, I saw something that made my heart skip a beat: a large plaque attached to the cold stone explaining the life and death of Anne Askew. I stood in her cell riveted to the spot for several minutes, overcome with emotion, trying to feel her presence. I tried to imagine how she would have felt knowing she was about to die for her beliefs and wondered how someone so young could have such strength of conviction.

I’ve always thought that a divine spirit guides us to places unknown when we least expect it to. I truly had no clue what I had stumbled upon that day but looking back on it now, there’s no doubt in my mind what led me to Anne’s special place in Tower history.

I walked back outside in a daze, not quite understanding what had happened or how everything I had experienced came to be. It wasn’t until later that I realized that that ever-present divine hand was guiding me to that room, and that I was guided there in order to tell Anne’s story to others.

Why was I so taken by her story? Perhaps it’s because I share her Protestant faith. Or perhaps my own cowardice reveres someone so young who was willing to sacrifice so much for her beliefs. Would I be so brave?

The stories of all the English martyrs are stories worth being told, for as the years dwindle, so too does history’s memory. The events that shaped the lives of the 16th century martyrs also shaped the world we live in today, and they are events, and lives, too important to forget.

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Tower of London Entrance Ticket Including Crown Jewels and Beefeater Tour
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Further Information:

For more about Anne Askew:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anne_Askew

The Tower of London:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tower_of_London

Smithfield Market:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smithfield_London

About the author:
Kathy Simcox lives in Columbus, Ohio. Ms. Simcox is an office manager at the College of the Arts at Ohio State University. She has a BA in psychology from Ohio University and has recently graduated from Ohio State with a 2nd B.A. in Religious Studies. She is active in her church, singing in the music program. She enjoys traveling, writing, kayaking, hiking, biking, cross country skiing, swimming, Irish music, British comedies, and Guinness. She is also known to pick up an occasional book, preferably historical fiction. Some of her pictures can be viewed at: community.webshots.com/user/kayakgirl41  Contact: itravellen@shaw.ca

Image credits:
All photos by Kathy Simcox
Tower of London engraving: Nathaniel Buck, Samuel Buck / Public domain
Woodcut of Preparations to burn the body of William Tyndale: John Foxe / Public domain
Martyrdom of Anne Askew illustration: Unknown author / Public domain

Tagged With: England travel, Protestant martyrs Filed Under: UK Travel

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