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History and Legend at Tintagel, Cornwall

Cornwall coast at Tintagel

by Kathy Simcox

Did King Arthur exist? Was Excaliber real? Did Lancelot sweep Guinevere off her feet and seal the fate of Camelot? These questions are in my mind as I stand on the top of the cliffs where Tintagel, the English Heritage site and the mythical birthplace of one of the most famous legends in British history, perches. I have always enjoyed the Arthurian stories, which is why I had always wanted to travel to those wind-swept cliffs of Cornwall to walk among Tintagel’s castle ruins.

The legend: During what has become known as the Dark Ages (approx. 400 AD – 1000 AD), the Duke of Cornwall, Gorlois, and his wife Igraine held a party at their castle, and the High King of Britain, Uther Pendragon, attended. He and Igraine met and fell in love, but she was of course betrothed to someone else. The Saxon raids were increasing and Uther summoned the duke to war. During a break in the raiding, Uther rode to Tintagel to visit Igraine. It was during this time that the magician Merlin feared for Britain’s future since Uther did not have an heir. He decided to take matters into his own hands and placed a spell on Uther, making the king appear to be the duke himself. So when Igraine saw Uther, she thought he was her husband. They spent the night together and thus Arthur was born. So the legend goes.

ruins of Tintagel CastleI have always been intrigued by this part of Cornwall and the stone ruins that are scattered among the flowery cliffs. My tour group was given two-and-a-half hours to do whatever it wanted: to roam the streets of Tintagel village situated several hundred feet from the ruins to browse the shops, explore the 14th century Old Post Office, a still-used post office protected by the National Trust, indulge in Devonshire Cream Tea, or to walk among the crumbling castle ruins to listen to the crashing waves and be blown to bits by the fierce winds screaming in from the Atlantic among the cottages in Cornwall.

Despite my Arthurian intrigue, I wasn’t sure what to do. The area surrounding the village is dated from the Iron Age (750 BC – 150 AD), which I found fascinating. But I remembered why I wanted to visit Tintagel in the first place, so I headed out toward the ruins.

It only took one glance out into the swirling, deep-blue ocean to convince me to spend the entire two-and-a-half hours riveted to the spot. The castle ruins themselves aren’t much to look at, just several stacks of stones, divided into what used to be separate chambers, the remains of an arch and tower. But the appeal, and lure, of them is twofold: the Arthurian legends coupled with the breath-taking scenery.

steep staircase leads to Tintagel CastleIn order to navigate safely throughout the complex, and to get the most out of the experience, I climbed down the steep staircases that had been built up and down the cliff faces. The stairs led to a beach and once I had safely landed on the damp sand and pebbles, I could really feel, see, and hear the power of the wind. I looked out toward the ocean past a large boulder situated about fifty yards from where I was standing and watched as the sea churned and slammed dangerously against the cliffs. The bizarre weather in this mythical southwest corner of England was something I had never experienced before.

Merlin's Cave at TintagelI turned away from the tempestuous scene and glanced behind me. Cascading over the cliff to the pebbled beach stretched a lovely waterfall. And to my immediate right gaped the infamous Merlin’s Cave, a tunnel of stone carved out of the cliff face from years and years of flowing water and rising tides. I couldn’t let the cave go unexplored, so with the sound of crunching pebbles and slamming surf in my ears, I walked through the arched entrance. The wind was even more deafening as it screamed through the tunnel so I didn’t linger inside very long; just long enough dampen my feet. Once outside the cave, I noticed the tide indeed was rising fast, and so I made my breath-stealing ascent up the steep, wooden steps to the top of the cliff and back toward the ancient village to where the tour bus idly sputtered.

Did King Arthur exist? Was Excaliber real? Did Lancelot sweep Guinevere off her feet and seal the fate of Camelot? As I turn and glance back past the blowing grass and out toward the white-capped Atlantic, I imagine Arthur and his knights of the Round Table galloping across the rolling hills, defending their infant country against the Saxons. For a fleeting moment, I allow the legends to be real.

Perhaps we all have a little Arthur in all of us – chivalrous, adventurous, brave, and true. In that brief, fleeting moment, I did. I turned back toward the bus with a smile, satisfied that I could erase another life wish from my bucket list. Arthur, and his legendary memory, will always be in my heart.

Additional Information:

Tintagel Castle at English Heritage

ADMISSION: (Non-members) Adult: £4.50, Concession: £3.40, Child: £2.30

Opening Times:
1 Apr – 30 Sep, daily 10am – 6pm
1-31 Oct, daily 10am – 5pm
1 Nov – 20 Mar, daily 10am – 4pm
Closed, 24-26 Dec and 1 Jan

HOW TO GET THERE:

On Tintagel Head, 600 metres (660 yards) along uneven track from Tintagel; no vehicles except Land Rover service
Bus: Western Greyhoud 524 Bude-Wadebridge, 594 Bude-Truro (with connections on 555 at Wadebridge to Bodmin Parkway [Rail])
Tel: 01840 770328

Browse Tintagel Tours Now Available

About the author:
Kathy Simcox lives in Hilliard, Ohio. Ms. Simcox is an office manager at the College of the Arts at Ohio State University. She has a BA in psychology from Ohio University and has recently graduated from Ohio State with a 2nd B.A. in Religious Studies. She is active at All Saints Lutheran Church in Worthington, singing in the music program and serving her last year as council secretary. She enjoys traveling, writing, kayaking, hiking, biking, cross country skiing, swimming, Irish music, British comedies, playing Bodhran, and Guinness. She is also known to pick up an occasional book, preferably historical fiction. Kathy can be reached at simcox1@gmail.com. Some of her work can be viewed at: community.webshots.com and www.facebook.com.

All photos are by Kathy Simcox.

Tagged With: Cornwall travel, Tintagel Filed Under: UK Travel

England: Finding Jane Austen in Hampshire

Jane Austen house and museum, Hampshire

by Cindy-Lou Dale

the Hampshire countrysideHampshire is a truly remarkable corner of the English countryside with historic towns, boasting rich cultural heritage and small picture-postcard villages. Soft hills and deep green valley’s punctuated by sheep, and deeply wooded forests populated by wild ponies. You may feel yourself transported back in time when driving along the country roads, past ancient thatched cottages and ‘olde worlde’ pubs that serve traditional ales and pub lunches. Should you decide to call at one of these quaint English country pubs, take a tip from this seasoned traveler. Don’t make jokes when visiting England. English folk are reserved and pride themselves in their steely wit, composure and restraint.

garden of Jane Austen's houseThe most famous person from Hampshire is undoubtedly the writer, Jane Austen, (Sense and Sensibility; Pride and Prejudice; Northanger Abbey). Jane was born in the small hamlet of Steventon in 1775. Twenty-six years later her father, the Reverend George Austen, moved his family to Bath and soon Jane moved to Southampton, eventually returning to her beloved Hampshire in 1809, after her brother, Edward, gave her a permanent home at Chawton. She revised and published Sense and Sensibility (1811) and Pride and Prejudice (1813), followed by Mansfield Park (1814), and Emma (1816). She died of Addison’s disease in 1817, aged only 41. Her remains have been laid to rest at Winchester Cathedral’s North Aisle of the Nave. After her death, Jane’s final two novels, Northanger Abbey and Persuasion, were published. These were the first books published under her own name; all of the novels published during her lifetime were simply inscribed as being penned “By a Lady”.

To reach Steventon you need to pass through a tunnel beneath the Basingstoke-to-Winchester railway line, built on a high embankment. On approach you bypass the hamlet of Dummer – once the home of Sarah Ferguson, Duchess of York.

St Nicholas church, SteventonOnce in Steventon, hidden in a quiet spot, off a tiny country lane, you’ll find the thirteenth century Church of St. Nicholas. Turn off your car’s engine, climb out and step hundreds of years back in time, into a world of peace and silence. The rectory, home of the Austen’s, in the field beyond and to the right of the churchyard was destroyed in a fire and all that now remains is a fenced well. Wander around awhile and soak up the surroundings, let the surrounds and peaceful parish soothe you into thoughts of rural living in another time. Once you have taken in the pastoral atmosphere step into the 700-year old church where Jane Austen worshiped and listened to her father voice his memorable sermons. The church remains effectively unchanged by Victorian restoration, and is still much the same as when Jane Austen visited.

Famous People from Hampshire:

Sarah Ferguson, Duchess of York.
Charles Kingsley, author of The Water Babies.
Richard Adams the author of Watership Down.
Charles Dickens was born in Portsmouth.
Thomas Burberry, inventor of gabardine and maker of coats.
Composer Andrew Lloyd Weber lives in a grand manor house at Sydmonton.
Former Formula One World Champion, Jody Scheckter, lives in Laverstoke.
Actor, Jeremy Irons, was born on the Isle of Wight.
Liz Hurley, model and actress, attended college in Basingstoke.
Mark King, of pop group ‘Level 42’ fame, lives on the Isle of Wight.
Gilbert White the naturalist.


London Literary Walking Tour Of Bloomsbury

If You Go:

In the neighboring village of Chawton, is the seventeenth century Jane Austen’s museum. The beautifully kept home holds an assortment of memorabilia including Jane’s writing desk and a bureau-bookcase containing some of her first editions. The museum also boasts a peaceful eighteenth century garden containing a variety of plants and herbs common in that era. In the Old Bakehouse you will find the newly restored donkey carriage (used till this day), which Jane employed when too weak to travel on foot. The museum shop has a selection of souvenirs and a good collection of Jane Austen related books, videos (including a series shown on television), CDs and cassettes of readings.

The villages of Chawton and Alton are celebrating Jane Austen’s life and works in a range of events including music, talks, museum displays, readings, horse-drawn carriages, a ‘Fashion through the ages’ show, Victorian Cricket, and a Regency Evening in June 2008. For more information please visit the Jane Austen Regency Week website.

After enjoying Jane Austen’s museum, travel a mile or two further to the local railway station and take a trip on an authentic steam-engine across the Hampshire countryside.

For further advice and details of nearby accommodations, contact the Basingstoke Tourist Information Centre on +44 (0)1256 817618

 

About the author:
Cindy is an award winning writer and photojournalist whose been featured in numerous publications across the globe. She heralds from a small farming community in Southern Africa and has since lived in 18 countries. Currently her roots are in a village on the Kent coast in England.

Photo credits:
Jane Austen House Museum by R ferroni2000 / CC BY-SA
All other photos are by Cindy-Lou Dale.

Tagged With: England travel, Hampshire attractions Filed Under: UK Travel

Wondrous Sea Caves on the Isle of Skye

formations in Spar Cave, Skye

by James Carron

The Spar Cave on Scotland’s Isle of Skye is a truly wondrous place. In the 19th century it was a fashionable destination for well-to-do Victorian trippers, drawn north to the rugged Strathaird peninsula by Sir Walter Scott’s poem The Lord of the Isles in which he wrote of a mermaid bathing in a pool concealed deep within the enchanted cell. Steamers set a course here from Glasgow in the 1820s and ’30s and locally organized boat trips were always well subscribed. But at some point in history the cave’s popularity dwindled and these days only those with a real spirit of adventure find their way to the entrance of a secret underground world that must surely be one of Scotland’s natural wonders.

the author at entrance to Spar CaveAccessing the cave is no easy task. To reach it I first had to make my way to Broadford and then wound my way down the single-track road that links the island’s second largest town with the tiny hamlet of Glasnakille, the last outpost of civilization on the peninsula.

Unlike many of the world’s spectacular cave systems, there is no visitor centre here. Indeed, the cave is not even signed from the road and admittance is restricted to just a few hours a day when the tide is at its lowest ebb.

A ruined stone barn just south of the road junction in Glasnakille marks the start point of a faint path down to the sea. The route drops through a deep chasm to reach a cove strewn with well-polished stone and sharp, angular rocks. Jurassic limestone cliffs rise up from the shoreline and it is difficult to imagine the coastal walker making much progress in either direction. But bear left and a course can be carefully picked out. The cave is not far off in terms of distance, but the terrain requires a slow and measured scramble over stones and larger slabs of rock, some of which can be perilously slippery.

The cave is just around the next headland and natural ledges cut into the rock assist here. The entrance remains hidden from view and it is only when you enter a vast ravine that it at last appears in all its majestic glory.

the author inside Spar Cave, SkyeThe canyon drives 200 feet inland and vertical walls of rock on either side rise at least 100 feet into the sky. John Macculloch visited the cave during his Scottish travels between 1811 and 1821 and likened it to ‘some deep cathedral aisle’.

At the top of this aisle, the moss-covered remains of an old wall stand guard over the entrance. It was built in the 19th century by landowner Alexander MacAllister to prevent people visiting without a guide. But it failed to deter some, including Sir Walter Scott who scaled the wall using a rope when he visited in 1814.

Beyond the ruined wall, two passages present themselves. The muddy tunnel on the right leads nowhere while the one on the left takes you deep into the mystical chamber where Scott’s mermaid ‘bathes her limbs in sunless well, deep in Strathaird’s enchanted cell… where dazzling spars gleam like a firmament of stars’.

tunnel in Spar caveThis ‘spar’ gave the cave its popular name, but its true Gaelic title is Slochd Altrimen, or Nursing Cave. This dates from the ninth century when a local princess fell in love with the son of the chief of Colonsay who was shipwrecked on the Strathaird coast. Unfortunately the fathers of the young lovers were sworn enemies and when she gave birth to a child, the baby was concealed in the cave to ensure its survival until the feud was settled.

At this point a torch is required as any remaining shreds of daylight are quickly lost, the passage curving into darkness to reach the base of an incredible flowstone staircase. Coated in a fine sheen of clear water, the marble-like slope at first appears impossible to scale. The calcium, however, offers excellent grip for walking boots and initially there are plenty of good footholds.

Half way up, the gradient increases and footholds are fewer, making the ascent more challenging. But persevere and the ground flattens out to form a plateau flanked by all manner of weird and wonderful configurations, centuries in the making and ever changing under the constant caress of the calcium-rich water that oozes gently through the limestone rock. The ceiling once boasted great stalactites but sadly Victorian souvenir hunters took these. It remains, however, a breath-taking sight, eerily quiet but for the constant dripping of water.

The narrow cut in the cliff certainly belies the true beauty concealed within. Casting a torch around the walls and ceiling reveals a multitude of strange natural creations, an unworldly mix of different formations. Some are smooth, highly polished orbs of calcium dripping with straggly alabaster dreadlocks. Others are more grotesque, peering out of the gloom like monstrously deformed faces, sprouting endless steams of gnarled tentacles. Pools on the floor ripple constantly under the eternal dripping of cool water, calcium deposits solidifying around the edges in thin sheets of unbreakable ice.

Beyond the plateau, the floor slopes away sharply, dropping to a deep pool of water flanked by flowstone arches. This is Scott’s ‘sunless well’. The only way across is to swim, but the cave ends abruptly a short distance on.

Unfortunately, visiting time to the Spar Cave is limited by the tide. Although the cave itself never floods, the channel outside fills completely with water as the sea rises, cutting the cavern off until it is ready to receive its next visitors.

The Spar Cave is by no means Skye’s only coastal cavern worth visiting. The island’s coastline is dotted with secret grottos. Some are completely inaccessible on foot, while others can only be reached at low tide. From Elgol, a path heads south to Prince Charlie’s Cave. It was here that the Jacobite spent his last few hours on Skye in July 1746 before leaving for the mainland and then, ultimately, France. Located on the coast at Port an Luig Mhoir, it is not an easy one to find. Near Peinchorran and The Braes, a strange dogleg peninsula extends out into the sea and here there is a proliferation of hidden caves, pinnacles and sea stacks. The most impressive feature is a brittle rock arch that spans a deep canyon.

entrance to Piper's Cave, SkyePiper’s Cave, at the southern end of Harlosh Point, requires a half mile walk across grazing land from the end of a loop road off the A863 that serves the scattered communities of Harlosh, Balmore and Ardmore. Where the land ends and the sea begins, a spindly 30-foot high basalt sea stack is the first indication you are on the right track. A steep path descends to the base of the stack and, with the tide low, it is possible to scramble along the rocky shoreline to the cave entrance. The mouth is impressively tall but the tunnel within tapers sharply into a dark, narrow passage.

My final cave hunt took me north through Uig on to the Trotternish peninsula where the island’s most northerly point, Rubha Hunish, tickles the Atlantic Ocean. A few miles down the west coast of this fat finger lies Uamh Oir, or Cave of Gold. This was to be a fittingly spectacular end to my cave quest, the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. Although the cave cannot be entered on foot, it is visually spectacular from outside, featuring a pavement of hexagonal basalt columns similar to those found at Fingal’s Cave, on the island of Staffa, and at the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland. It is a geological wonder, one of many I had witnessed on Skye, and the ultimate reward for a weekend of exhilarating and, at times, rather slippery, coastal exploration.


Isle of Skye Tour

If You Go:

Getting there:
The Isle of Skye is a five-hour drive from Glasgow. Scottish Citylink operates coach services from Glasgow to Portree. The nearest railway station is at Kyle of Lochalsh.

Getting around:
Bus services on Skye are operated by Highland Country Buses. Service 49 runs from Portree to Broadford, Elgol and Glasnakille. Service 56 links Portree, Dunvegan and Bracadale while service 57A and 57B run from Portree to Uig.

More information:
The main tourist information centre on Skye is in Portree and it is open all year.

Check the tides:
High and low tide times are displayed in the window of the tourist information centre in Portree. Alternatively, log on to Isle of Skye tides chart.

About the author:
Based in Scotland, James Carron is a freelance writer. He specializes in features on hiking, backpacking, camping and practical conservation, both in Scotland and overseas and writes regularly for a number of UK consumer magazines and newspapers. His other interests include travel, mountain-biking and sea-kayaking. He is currently researching the life of a hermit who lived in one of the remotest parts of the British Isles with a view to writing a biography.

All photos are by James Carron.

Tagged With: Isle of Skye attractions, Scotland travel Filed Under: UK Travel

The England of Charles Dickens

Charles Dickens at his writing desk

A Real “Father Christmas”

by Cindy-Lou Dale

His name is synonymous with Christmas and for many may conjure up visions of plum pudding and a warm fireside.

Ghost and Scrooge in A Christmas CarolIn fact, Charles Dickens probably has more influence on the way we celebrate Christmas today than any single individual (except one). At the start of the Victorian era, celebrations of Christmas began to decline but its romantic revival began when Prince Albert introduced the German custom of decorating trees and singing carols and soon thereafter Christmas cards appeared. But it was Charles Dickens’ Christmas stories ( “A Christmas Carol” is one of five) that rekindled the joy of Christmas across Britain and America. “A Christmas Carol” was written during a time of decline in the old Christmas traditions. Dickens wrote it as a serial for the newspaper at a time when he was financially strapped. As a result of this Christmas “ghost story,” first published on December 19, 1843, with illustrations by John Leech, Charles Dickens probably had more influence on the way we celebrate Christmas today than any single individual.

However, life back then wasn’t all sugar and spice. Dickens also wrote of abused orphans and street children, a murderer, and a measly schoolmaster — drawing from his own wretched experiences on London’s streets as a child. Perhaps it was because of those experiences that a talent emerged which would later lead to Dickens becoming the greatest writer of his time.

Charles John Huffman Dickens was born in Portsmouth, England in 1812; the first son to Elizabeth Barrow and John Dickens, a naval pay clerk.

Dickens' birthplace house Portsmouth UKThe house he was born in (now 393 Old Commercial Road) has miraculously survived and is preserved as a museum furnished in the style of 1809 which is when John and Elizabeth Dickens set up their first home together. Charles only lived in Portsmouth for the first three years of his life but returned on three occasions – once was to do background research for his novel “Nicholas Nickleby”.

The pieces displayed in the museum — furniture, ceramics, glass, household objects and decoration, have been recreated in the Regency style which his parents would have chosen. There are three furnished rooms: the parlor, the dining room and the bedroom where Dickens was born. Also displayed is a small collection of memorabilia: the couch on which he died, his snuff box, an inkwell and a paper knife.

When Charles turned five his family moved to No. 2 Ordnance Terrace, Chatham, Kent, where they lived for several years. Their house is still stands and is only a few yards from the railway station.

The Dickens’s were considered moderately well off and Charles attended a private school. But all that changed when his father was incarcerated in the Marshalsea Prison for debt. The then twelve year old Charles was deemed old enough to work and labored in a shoe factory to pay for his lodgings in North London and help support his family. He believed these events to have been the most horrendous of his life and haunted him to the grave; which he thinly disguised in the dark experiences of childhood poverty and feelings of abandonment in “David Copperfield”.

The Marshalsea prison was eventually closed in the late 19th century and demolished sometime afterwards. All that remains of it now is a fragment of wall containing the entrance arch, which stands in a forgotten corner of a church yard, which itself has been converted into a small park. The absence of information is remarkable, in view of the historic importance of this prison. Nevertheless, a vivid portrait of conditions in this gaol can be found in Dickens’ work.

Dickens began work as a law clerk soon after his father’s release from prison. He quickly tired of this and became a journalist, reporting parliamentary debates which shaped his first collected works – “Sketches by Boz’” (his pen name).

Dickens' London House on Doughty St.He married Catherine Hogarth, the daughter of a prominent editor, in 1836. They moved to the house at 48 Doughty Street (left) in the spring of 1837 with their new baby Charles, as well as Dickens’ brother Fred who worked in the counting house of Dickens’ first publisher. Catherine’s younger sister Mary Hogarth was also a frequent visitor.

At this time, Dickens was on the threshold of fame with his successful “Pickwick Papers”. Soon after the family moved in, Mary Hogarth died of heart failure at the age of 17. Dickens was so shocked he couldn’t write and his publications of the “Pickwick Papers” and “Oliver Twist”, which ran as a newspaper serial, were halted. Eventually he resumed writing and in his later fiction novels such as “The Old Curiosity Shop”, the character of Little Nell was based on Mary.

In the study of Doughty St. house you can see the desk that Dickens used until the end of his life. The room is depicted in an engraving “The Empty Chair” by Sir Luke Fildes. Dickens always worked with fresh flowers on his writing table.

The Dickens family lived in London for some time and over the ensuing years, Catherine bore him ten children. But Dickens longed to return to his Kent roots and often spoke of Gad Hill Place – a home he had much admired as a child. In 1885, after he had become a world-famous author, his dream home came on to the market. After some haggling he acquired Gad Hill Place, which was the only home he would ever own.

While living at Gad’s Hill he wrote “A Tale of Two Cities”, “Great Expectations” and “Our Mutual Friend”.

Poets' Corner, Westminster AbbeyAfter twenty-two years of marriage, Charles and Catherine separated – a time when divorce was almost unthinkable. The year before their separation, Dickens had met Ellen Ternan, an attractive 18-year-old actress who eventually became his mistress.

Charles Dickens died at his home in 1870 while writing chapter 23 of “The Mystery of Edwin Drood”. He was buried in the Poet’s Corner of Westminster. The inscription on his tomb reads: “He was a sympathizer to the poor, the suffering, and the oppressed; and by his death, one of England’s greatest writers is lost to the world.”

The great writer may have passed but his stories, their characters and the places he wrote of will live forever.


Charles Dickens Walking Tour

If You Go:

PORTSMOUTH:

The historic Portsmouth dockyard is truly impressive with the HMS Victory, the flagship of Vice Admiral Lord Nelson, moored there. The Victory is the only remaining eighteenth century warship anywhere in the world and is the oldest serving Royal Navy ship in commission.

You will no doubt be beckoned by the tranquil Victorian seafront; head off to the notorious Still & West Country House pub and listen to the landlord’s yarns of the pub’s history. He claims the area in which the pub stands was once the centre for Caribbean spice imports and was once the haunt of smugglers and press gangs. The view over Portsmouth Harbor is spectacular as the Isle of Wight and the Marina can be seen from the windows. A little further some of the Royal Navy’s most modern warships are moored.

To walk through Old Portsmouth today, with its cobbled streets, charming pubs and restaurants is to walk through history. The narrow side streets recall a medieval community huddled together within town walls. It was in these streets that press gangs sought new recruits for the Navy.

Highly recommended accommodation in Portsmouth is the award winning Fortitude Cottage – a quaint family run guesthouse, overlooking the quayside in the heart of Old Portsmouth. The original Fortitude Cottage, dating back to the 16th century, was destroyed in WW2. Its replacement, built on the same site as the original, with pastel bedrooms and beamed ceilings is immaculately maintained.

Hop onto the water bus (operates from Easter to November) on the quay opposite Fortitude Cottage and take a five minute ride into the naval dockyard and appreciate some of Britain’s proud naval history.


Portsmouth Historic Dockyard: All Attraction Ticket

LONDON:

The Charles Dickens Museum, located at 48 Doughty Street, London, WC1N 2LX is open six days a week, from 10 till 5.

Great accommodation nearby is the Georgian House Hotel – just 10 minutes bus ride from London’s West End. They offer a variety of rooms and a great English breakfast.
London Transport Museum – Hidden London


Haunted London Walking Tour: Ghosts and Criminal History

KENT:

In the first week of June, the nearby town of Rochester comes alive with Charles Dickens celebrations. The towns’ folk dress up in Victorian costume and parade the streets of Rochester. Numerous other commemorative festivals are held in the Rochester throughout the year – the ‘Sweeps Festivals’ in May and the ‘Summer Concerts’ held in the grounds of Rochester Castle in July. The ‘Dickensian Christmas’ is a must with the aromas of roasting chestnuts filling the air, skating on the ice rink in the Castle gardens and candlelight Christmas carolers proceeding through the streets heading towards the Cathedral. Throughout December there are guided walks in the area the Dickens family lived.

Photo credits:
Charles Dickens at his Writing Desk: CC0 Public Domain
Ghost and Scrooge in “A Christmas Carol” by John Leech / Public domain
Dickens’ birthplace and museum in Portsmouth: Austriantraveler / CC BY
Dickens’ London house at 48 Doughty St. by Spudgun67 / CC BY-SA
Poets’ Corner, Westminster Abbey by See page for author / Public domain

About the author:
Cindy-Lou Dale is an award winning writer and photojournalist who has been featured in numerous publications across the globe. She heralds from a small farming community in Southern Africa and has since lived in 18 countries. Currently her roots are in a village on the Kent coast in England.

Tagged With: Charles Dickens, England travel Filed Under: UK Travel

Edinburgh, Scotland’s City of Festivals

Edinburgh Castle

by Andy Hayes

The fun starts in the beginning – or the end – of the year with Edinburgh’s Hogmanay, a multi-faceted festival brightening up the long dark nights of winter and welcoming in the New Year. Many modern day traditions for the New Year come from Scotland, including the iconic Auld Lang Syne song, written by Scottish poet Robert Burns. The song is written in Scots, which explains why many find the lyrics to be near-undecipherable.

Edinburgh at nightThe city events leading up to the huge street party held on December 31 include an authentic German Christmas market set in Princes Street Gardens; this venue offer the opportunity to ice skate or simply sip a hot mulled wine while surveying the beautiful Christmas lights adorning the already magnificent city skyline. Stalls offer freshly made food, ornaments, and other great gifts. The market is surrounded by masses of amusement park rides, filling the cold air with sounds of screams and laughter. A giant Ferris wheel, sitting next to the charming Scott Monument, completes the picture-postcard setting.

June brings us the Edinburgh International Film Festival. One of the higher profile film festivals in Europe, Edinburgh’s score tends to focus more on independent and sometimes eccentric European content. From dark Danish themes to English happy-go-lucky tales, each year’s lineup includes something for every theater fan. Movies are shown in the city’s wonderful films venues, including the Cameo and the Filmhouse. The Cameo welcomes visitors with its bright, old-fashioned signage, and more of these traditional touches can be found inside. Nearby, the Filmhouse is a slightly more modern space but upstairs in the main theatre is a classic screening room fronted by a massive, thick red curtain that is as beautiful as it is functional. Each theatre has a cafe worth visiting on its own, with a full array of drinks and ambience that can be enjoyed either before or after a show. The Filmhouse also has a lengthy menu of fresh, healthy entrees suitable for either lunch or dinner.

statue of David Hume with St. Giles' cathedral behindEdinburgh turns into the UK’s busiest city in August, when not only does the Edinburgh Fringe Festival roll into town, but also the Jazz and Blues Festival, Art Festival, Military Tattoo, International Festival, Book Festival, and Mela Festival. The streets are filled beyond capacity with tourists watching buskers show off their latest routines. Every room in the city is transformed into a performance venue – from vaults in cellars to school classrooms to caravans parked out on the street. Pubs are open until the wee hours of dawn, restaurants are packed and reservations are impossible to be had. City squares are turned into tent-filled carnivals. This is August in Edinburgh, home to the world’s largest arts festival, the Edinburgh Fringe.

The Fringe is obviously the biggest component of the August-madness; established in 1947, the event has grown to include 31,320 performances of 2,088 different shows in 247 different venues in 2008. That is over 130 performances every single hour of every day for the entire month of August – just for the Fringe! Many of Fringe performances are stand-up comedy; indeed, 2008 was the first year to see this category become the majority. Mini-musicals are also popular, featuring song and dance as well choreographed as you would find in a Broadway production. Celebrities often feature in the headlines, including names like Joan Rivers. Dark topics like murder or sex are not taboo; in fact, the most unusual or risqué-orientated events can be sellouts. Navigating this never-ending stream of content is done by perusing the fringe guide, available for free in major fringe venues as well as the fringe box office on the Royal Mile. You can also search the Fringe website (edfringe.com) for shows and book online. It is best to take one of two approaches: either plan ahead and book for the shows you really want, or just wing it and get word-of-mouth suggestions on the best things to see as you go.

row of Georgian townhomes in Edinburgh's Charlotte SquareThe Scottish capital was the first city to be titled as a UNESCO City of Literature so it is only appropriate that August also make space for a book festival. Writing still features highly in Edinburgh, with resident J.K. Rowling often making the headlines with her world-famous Harry Potter series. The book festival features a number of interesting authors across all genres, but even a non-book lover could enjoy this event due to the setting: the entire festival is set within the grassy knoll at the center of charming Charlotte Square, surrounded on all sides by Georgian townhomes and black iron fences. The center of the square is normally closed to pedestrian access, so this view of the surrounding streets is only available once a year.

The crowning centerpiece of the August events tends to be the Edinburgh Military Tattoo, a mélange of bagpipes, military drums and dancing performers. It is easy to see why this particular experience is so special as the setting is straight from a fairy tale, taking place directly underneath Edinburgh Castle on the Esplanade; highlights of show include fireworks, over-the-top military processions and kilts as far as the eye can see. Tickets sell out for this event almost as soon as they go on sale, so if you have not booked a year in advance then you might be hard pressed for a seat.

The key to Edinburgh’s charm is in its balance of big city offerings in a compact city size. It is a rural paradise but also a cosmopolitan capital. There is nothing else like it. And with a revolving calendar of amazing festivals, you’ll never be shy of a reason to come for a visit.

For More Information:

Wikipedia explains Hogmany
Hogmany celebrations across Scotland
Official guide to Edinburgh
City Guide to Edinburgh, Scotland

While Edinburgh is full of sights, there is plenty of excitement outside the city center. One great choice is an afternoon in Rosslyn Chapel in the nearby village of Roslin. Accessible by a short 25-minute bus ride, the chapel is open every day of the week and costs only £10 to explore the inside and outside of this medieval relic. It is an unusual survivor, as almost all nearby churches were destroyed in earlier times. Free talks are hosted throughout the day – these explain some of the historical facts of the church, as well as some of the various speculation that has developed with the rise in Roslin’s fame due to Dan Brown’s novel, The DaVinci Code. Make your own conclusion as to what is buried in the sealed basement underneath your feet.

Edinburgh Tours Now Available:

3-Hour Private Edinburgh Castle Tour
Rosslyn Chapel and Hadrian’s Wall Small Group Day Tour from Edinburgh
Guided Edinburgh Private Walking Tour
Rosslyn Chapel, the Scottish Borders and Glenkinchie Distillery Tour from Edinburgh
Whisky-Tasting Day Trip from Edinburgh

About the author:
Andy Hayes is a freelance travel writer and photographer based in Edinburgh, Scotland. When not out having travel adventures (or dreaming of new ones), he is hitting the walking trails near home. To get in touch or see Andy’s other travelogues, visit his website at www.andyhayes.com.

All are photos © Andrew Hayes.

Tagged With: Edinburth attractions, Scotland travel Filed Under: UK Travel

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