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Agatha Christie’s Devon

bust of Agatha Christie in Torquay

Identifying Locations in Her Novels

by Maureen Vincent-Northam

It’s hard to imagine Devon as the inspiration for murder. This rural county, the fourth largest in England, is better known to most for its rolling hills and Devonshire cream teas. But no fewer than fifteen of Agatha Christie’s crime novels are set in Devon, or have specific connections with the county.

Agatha Mary Clarissa, the youngest of three children, was born to Frederick and Clara Miller in the coastal town of Torquay in 1890. This part of South Devon is known as the English Riviera and the town’s pride in its most famous daughter is evident from the sign-posted ‘Agatha Christie Mile’, a walking tour which takes in some of the places which inspired the author. Close to the Tourist Centre is the only sculpture of Agatha Christie on view in the world. The bronze bust was unveiled on September 15th, 1990 by her daughter, Mrs Rosalind Hicks, to commemorate the centenary of Agatha’s birth.

A short distance away is Princess Gardens, where Agatha was a frequent visitor. The Princess in question was Louise, one of Queen Victoria’s children. The gardens, opened in 1894, are laid out in a classic Victorian design with palm trees, cast-iron ornamental fountains, and shelters.

Agatha used this setting for a scene in The ABC Murders (1936). Alexander Bonaparte Cust, on leaving the Torquay Palladium, buys a newspaper and enters the Princess Gardens. He makes his way to a shelter facing Torquay harbour, unfolds his paper, and seems unduly troubled by the headline ‘Sir Carmichael Clarke Murdered’.

Imperial Hotel TorquayIf you make your way around the harbour to Victoria Parade and begin to climb Beacon Hill, you’ll come upon The Imperial Hotel. Built in 1866, it boasts stunning views over Torbay and was Torquay’s first large ‘fashionable’ hotel, where Agatha herself attended social events. The list of distinguished former guests is quite impressive: King Edward VII, Lily Langtry, Emperor Napoleon III, Miss Jane Marple and Hercule Poirot.

The Imperial Hotel appears in three of Agatha’s crime novels. In the opening chapter of Peril at End House (1932) it has been renamed the Majestic, and Torquay too has a new – though easily recognisable – identity. Captain Hastings tells us: We were sitting on one of the terraces of the Majestic Hotel. It is the biggest hotel in St. Loo and stands in its own grounds on a headland overlooking the sea. Soon, a would-be murderer makes a grave mistake when he takes a pot shot at his victim while she is talking with Hercule Poirot!

Torquay harborIn The Body in the Library (1942), a murder victim is found in the library belonging to Arthur and Dolly Bantry. Help is at hand from Dolly’s friend, Jane Marple, and the ladies check in to the Majestic (now situated in fictional Danemouth) to conduct some investigations of their own.

Sleeping Murder (1976) is the third book to feature The Imperial Hotel – this time as itself. In the final chapter, ‘Postscript at Torquay’, Miss Marple takes to the terrace with Gwenda and Giles Reed and sheds light on a mystery that has escaped detection for 18 years.

Kents Cavern, the oldest Scheduled Ancient Monument in Britain, is one of Torquay’s major tourist attractions and appears as Hampsly Cavern in The Man in the Brown Suit (1924), one of Agatha’s earliest novels. Agatha herself was later to develop a great interest in archaeology and travel widely with her second husband, archaeologist Max Mallowan.

Agatha was baptised at All Saints Church, Torre, in Devon. Her father, having gifted money to the church, ensured his daughter’s entry as a ‘founder member’. A short walk from here is the old Vicarage, Newton Road – now the Heathcliff Hotel. Tea at the Vicarage seemed a fairly frequent event for the Miller family, so it’s not surprising that Agatha sought advice from family friend, the Reverend Harold Petty on ecclesiastical matters when she was writing The Murder at the Vicarage (1930). St Mary Mead is the fictional location, Colonel Protheroe the ill-fated victim, but Agatha’s new sleuth, Miss Marple, ably assists the vicar, Leonard Clement, to solve the mystery.

Elberry CoveBroadsands lies about halfway between Paignton and Brixham. From the car park, Elberry Cove is a ten-minute walk along the coastal path. At one end of the beach are the remains of a Victorian Bath House, looking a bit like a small castle.

This peaceful and unspoilt location couldn’t possibly be the scene of a murder, could it? Actually, yes, whilst taking his evening stroll in the field overlooking the cove (Elbury in the novel), Sir Carmichael Clarke receives a crashing blow to the back of his head. His body is discovered at a spot near the hedge, halfway across the field – another unfortunate victim in The ABC Murders.

Throughout her writing life, Agatha gave many of her books and stories to family and friends. “Something between a book and a short story” is how Agatha describes the work she donated to the Church of St Mary the Virgin in the village of Churston Ferrers, which she attended frequently during the years she lived at Greenway House. The proceeds of the work were to put in place a stained glass window to replace a plain one, which Agatha claimed, “Gaped at me like a gap in teeth.” The finished window is in mauve and green, Agatha’s favourite colours, and depicts Jesus as the Good Shepherd.

Paignton and Dartmouth Steam Railway platformThe Paignton and Dartmouth Steam Railway runs along a seven-mile scenic route from Paignton to Kingswear. Along the way it stops at Churston Station where Agatha boarded the train on many occasions. The Churston Volunteer Group now maintains the station and during peak holiday season there’s a regular steam train service.

Hercule Poirot and Captain Hastings also travelled along the route in The ABC Murders, where the station appears under its own name. A note from the killer warns Poirot of an impending murder at ‘Churston on the 30th’, but the letter has been wrongly addressed; will the indomitable detective get to Churston in time?

Agatha renames the station ‘Nassecombe’ in Dead Man’s Folly (1956). In the opening chapter, at the urgent request of detective novelist Ariadne Oliver, Poirot takes the twelve o’clock train from Paddington to Nassecombe Station. Mrs Oliver has been hired to organize a Murder Hunt at a garden party hosted by Sir George and Lady Stubbs and she has a hunch that something is amiss!

Galmpton, the closest village to Greenway House, is easily recognizable as Nassecombe village, where Poirot speaks with the parents of the murder victim in Dead Man’s Folly.

Greenway HouseIn 1938, Agatha purchased Greenway House, a Georgian property set on land beside the River Dart. The property became the residence of her daughter Mrs Rosalind Hicks until her death in 2004. It has since passed to The National Trust with Agatha’s grandson, Mathew Prichard, gifting the house’s collections and interiors. The Trust will undertake a major restoration project before opening the house to the public, but Greenway Gardens, also part of the National Trust, are open to visitors.

Greenway becomes Nasse House in Dead Man’s Folly. The grounds are to be the setting for Mrs Oliver’s Murder Hunt and it isn’t long before a real victim is found in the boathouse.

The twisting road past the gates of Greenway House leads to Greenway Quay. Poirot, ‘in a mood of exploration’ takes off down this road and finds himself on the small quay. Here he discovers a large bell with a chain and a notice that reads ‘Ring for the Ferry’. Across the river lies the village of Dittisham (re-named Gitcham in Dead Man’s Folly), which can be reached by the passenger ferry.

Greenway Quay’s bell was also used in the opening of Ordeal by Innocence (1958), when Dr Calgary rings it to summon the ferryboat. The bell is still in use on the quay today.

Hay Tor, DartmoorAgatha completed her first novel, The Mysterious Affair at Styles (1920), at the Moorland Hotel at Hay Tor on Dartmoor. During World War I, while working as a Voluntary Aid Detachment nurse in Torquay’s Red Cross Hospital, she had been challenged by her sister, Madge, to write a crime story. Later, when Agatha had completed the examination of the Society of Apothecaries of London and qualified as a pharmaceutical dispenser, she took up her sister’s challenge.

Being surrounded daily by poisons, it wasn’t too surprising that Agatha would choose this method of murder in her debut novel. The Mysterious Affair at Styles also marked the first appearance of Hercule Poirot, who was to grace a further thirty-six books over the following fifty years.

Agatha chose a Dartmoor setting for at least two of her novels: Poirot and Hastings head for the fictional village of Hoppaton to conduct investigations in The Big Four (1927) – the first book produced after the break-up of Agatha’s marriage to Archie Christie. Sittaford, another fictional Dartmoor village, is cut off by several feet of snow in Agatha’s fourteenth novel, The Sittaford Mystery (1931), where a seance takes place at Sittaford House.

Burgh Island HotelBurgh Island, once owned by millionaire Archibald Nettlefold, was used in two of Agatha’s books. The island is cut off twice a day by the tide, but at low tide it is possible to walk across from nearby Bigbury-on-Sea.

In Evil Under the Sun (1941), this location becomes Smugglers Island in Leathercombe Bay and the hotel is The Jolly Roger. Hercule Poirot, in common with the other guests, has come here to relax, but with the arrival of Arlena Marshall comes jealousy, blackmail and murder.

And Then There Were None (1939) – originally called Ten Little N*ggers in the UK and Ten Little Indians in the US – is often considered Agatha’s most ingenious plot. Ten people, all with something to hide, are invited to stay on the island. One by one they are murdered, until no one is left alive.

The idea of writing such an impossible mystery so fascinated Agatha that she saw it as her most difficult challenge. It is fitting that Burgh Island, one of Agatha’s favourite locations, should be the setting for the novel she considered her greatest achievement.

© Maureen Vincent-Northam 2008


Bespoke Tour of Devon and Cornwall from Devon or Cornwall

If You Go:

Torquay Museum
529 Babbacombe Road, Torquay TQ1 1HG
01803 293975
www.torquaymuseum.org
Email: enquiries@torquaymuseum.org
Torquay Museum has the Agatha Christie Collection which includes photographic material, much of which has not been published elsewhere. There are displays featuring films and TV series based on her novels with costumes and other items.

Torre Abbey
The King’s Drive, Torquay TQ2 5JE
01803 201201
www.torre-abbey.org.uk
Email: torre-abbey@torbay.gov.uk
Torre Abbey contains the Agatha Christie Memorial Room which features her favourite armchair, her typewriter, and her plotting book containing the handwritten manuscript of ‘A Caribbean Mystery’

Greenway Gardens
Greenway Road, Galmpton Devon TQ5 0ES
01803 842382
www.nationaltrust.org.uk
Email: greenway@nationaltrust.org.uk
Greenway Gardens have been open to the public since 2000, and the National Trust hope to complete restoration work to the house and have it opened to visitors by 2009.

Paignton and Dartmouth Steam Railway
Dart Valley Railway, Queen’s Park Station, Torbay Road,, Paignton TQ4 6AF
01803 555872

Kents Cavern
Cavern House, 89/91 Ilsham Road, Torquay, TQ1 2JF
01803 215136
Email: caves@kents-cavern.co.uk

Torquay Tourist Information Centre
Vaughan Parade, Torquay, TQ2 5JG
01803 297428
Email: torquay.tic@torbay.gov.uk

About the author:
Maureen Vincent-Northam has been published in newspapers, magazines and on the Web. She is the co-author of The ABC Checklist for New Writers and the author of The Greatest Genealogy Tips in the World, having worked as a family history researcher for many years. www.maureen-vincent-northam.co.uk

Photo credits:
Agatha Christie statue in Torquay: Jaggery / Agatha Christie statue in Torquay
Greenway House: MANHATTAN RESEARCH INC (MANHATTAN RESEARCH INC) from MANHATTAN RESEARCH INC , MANHATTAN RESEARCH INC / CC BY
Hay Tor, Dartmoor: Nigel Cox / Dartmoor: Haytor Rocks
Burgh Island Hotel on Burgh Island: didbygraham / CC BY
All other photos by by Maureen Vincent-Northam

Tagged With: Devon attractions, England travel Filed Under: UK Travel

Scotland: In Search of Shakespeare’s Macbeth

Inverness Castle

by Troy Herrick

The Scottish highlands are rugged mountains, thick forests and lush green glens. Overcast skies, cold blustery winds and thick mists add a haunting quality to the region. In this environment, the supernatural doesn’t seem so outlandish – it is almost expected.

When Shakespeare first presented the Tragedy of Macbeth to King James I in 1606, he was well aware of his majesty’s fascination with witchcraft. The bard piqued Scottish King James’ interest by incorporating a highland setting and the supernatural into the plot.

No one disputes that the play is a literary masterpiece but it is historically and geographically inaccurate. While the fictional Macbeth will be reviled as long as Shakespeare’s play is performed, the historical Macbeth was actually no worse than any other Scottish King that preceded him. Clearly Shakespeare did not let history stand in the way of a good story.

The intriguing highland locations are still as spell-binding as in Shakespeare’s time. You can relive the play in person by visiting each sight. But you will require some imagination as they look nothing like what you might expect.

Witches stone, Forres, Scotland
Forres – Witches stone in front of a police station

Start with the three witches in Forres. The coastal city of Forres is notorious for its history of witch hunting. Here visitors will find the “Witch’s Stone”. This stone marks the remains of a barrel used to execute witches.

In times past, a woman accused of witchcraft in Forres was imprisoned inside a barrel and rolled down Cluny hill to her death. If she survived this ordeal, spikes were driven through the barrel wall. If she survived, she was burned at the stake. There was no innocence or reprieve.

In the play, Duncan’s palace was located in Forres. History records that a flat-topped mound known as Castlehill had been the site of a “Royal Palace” since 900 A.D. and that kings resided there. Nothing suggests that Duncan was one of those kings however.

Castlehill was strategically important. From its summit, defenders had a clear view of the sea to the north and the lands to the south. Now this hilltop is a city park containing an obelisk known as the Thompson Monument (dedicated to a Scottish surgeon who served in the Crimean War). Remnants of the castle still occupied the site when the park was first laid out.

Forres - James Thompson monumentOne might imagine stone fortifications, towers and a solid wooden draw bridge. The grandfatherly King Duncan is seated upon a throne as he receives news of Macbeth’s victory over Sweno and the traitorous Thane of Cawdor. Colorful banners and elegant tapestries soften the cold, rough stone walls surrounding him.

This castle scene does not reflect the Viking Age however (Sweno was a Viking in the play). In reality, Forres Castle was constructed of wood.

While in Forres, you can visit Sueno’s Stone. Sueno’s Stone is a 23-foot tall menhir covered in indecipherable Pictish writing. Scholars have suggested that this menhir may commemorate a battle over 100 years before Macbeth between Kenneth MacAlpin’s army of Scots and the rival Picts. Perhaps Shakespeare had this battle in mind when he chose the name of Sweno.

The present brown sandstone Inverness Castle, built in 1834 as a court house, is closed to the public. This structure occupies the site of a much earlier wooden structure dating back to the time of King David I in the 12th century. (Castle photo is at the top of story.)

Visitors will enjoy the turreted castle exterior and the panoramic view of the area from the hill top. Remnants of an even earlier fortification, dating to the time of Macbeth, were discovered in the private garden of a house appropriately named “Dun Macbeth” on nearby Auldcastle Road. Strategically Auldcastle Road, on a hilltop, was an ideal location for a castle because of the commanding view of the water below.

When I visited Auldcastle Road, local residents were either unwilling or unable to identify Dun Macbeth. Furthermore, there was nothing to suggest that this neighborhood was of any historical significance whatsoever.

Visitors should note that no record indicates that the real King Duncan was murdered at Inverness. However, some people claim to have seen his ghost walking along the banks of the River Ness in full royal dress.

Cawdor CastleCawdor Castle is associated with Shakespeare’s play because Macbeth was granted the title of “Thane of Cawdor” by a grateful King Duncan. A storeroom just beyond the main entrance to the castle builds upon this link. Here visitors find a cauldron topped with a model of the castle.

While the Cawdor area has been a thanedom since 1236, it does not date to the time of Macbeth. Furthermore, the existing castle was constructed in 1454. Despite the lack of any genuine association with Macbeth, Cawdor Castle is worth touring because of its fine furnishings and well-manicured gardens.

The tower room is of special interest. Inside is a trap door that falls open to a hidden dungeon. This dungeon was reserved for uninvited guests but you are in no danger as long as you have your admission ticket.

A tour guide informed me that there had been an earlier castle, dating to the time of Macbeth, situated approximately 1.5 miles north of the present Cawdor Castle. This unmarked site is located at a bend in the road near Rosefield, close to an abandoned airstrip. Any remnant of that castle has long since been washed away by flood waters from the River Nairn.

Scone PalaceWith the murder of King Duncan, Macbeth travels to Scone to be invested as King of Scotland. The play only refers to him as traveling to Scone. No details are given, so let’s fill them in. To be invested as king, Macbeth would climb to the top of Moot (“Boot”) Hill, just outside present day Scone Palace, and seat himself upon the “Stone of Destiny”.

During the coronation ceremony, the new King would also accept oaths of loyalty from the Scottish Nobles in attendance.

Tradition required these Lords to swear allegiance to the King upon their own lands. Since it was too dangerous for the King to travel around the country to receive individual oaths of loyalty, the Lords carried samples of their own soil to Scone in their boots. When it came time to swear their oaths, they would dump the soil on the ground and kneel before the King. Thus Moot Hill is actually a transplanted mound of earth. Its size grew over the centuries as more and more soil was added.

Macbeth noted that Macduff, the Thane of Fife, was not present at Scone to swear his loyalty. Instead Macduff, who had remained steadfastly loyal to King Duncan, was en route to England to meet with Malcolm (Canmore).

Dunsinnan HillVisitors to Scone Palace may ascend Moot Hill and seat themselves upon a replica of the Stone of Destiny. The real Stone of Destiny, a 336 pound red sandstone slab, is displayed at Edinburgh Castle.

The palace and gardens are also worth visiting even though there is no association with Macbeth. Of particular interest is the Corridor of Kings where visitors find pictures of some notable Scottish monarchs including Macbeth.

Malcolm, with English support, leads an army to Scotland in a bid to take the throne from Macbeth. The army, camped at Birnam Wood, prepares to march on Dunsinane under cover of tree branches. Even now locals will tell you that Birnam Wood is visible from Dunsinnan Hill (Dunsinane). Therefore any army advancing on the hill would still require camouflage.

Birnam OakToday the massive, gnarled “Birnam Oak” on the edge of the River Tay is all that remains of the original Birnam Wood from the time of Macbeth. There is no proof that this particular oak existed at the time of Macbeth however.

After a leisurely walk through Birnam and along the river bank, visitors may wish to enjoy a drink in one of the local pubs before heading for Dunisnnan Hill.

The outlines of two Iron Age wooden hill-forts lie atop Dunsinnan Hill. The more recent inner fort could date to the time of Macbeth. Tourists and invading armies must climb a steep hillside pasture to reach the summit of Dunsinnan Hill. Visitors immediately realize that there is no level ground for two armies to fight a pitched battle on Dunsinnan Hill. Any battle would be a siege instead. However, in the play, the two armies clash and Macbeth is slain at the hands of MacDuff. With the defeat of Macbeth, Malcolm claims his birthright as King of Scotland.

You may justifiably ask “What is the impact of Shakespeare’s play on our perception of the real Macbeth?” One answer is to be found in the Great Gallery of Holyroodhouse in Edinburgh. On its walls hang portraits of 94 of the 110 real and legendary Kings of Scotland. The real Macbeth reigned as King of Scotland from 1040 to 1057; his portrait is one of the 16 that is missing. Coincidence? Ironically even Bonnie Prince Charlie’s picture is displayed.


3-Hour Private Edinburgh Castle Tour

If You Go:

The Witch’s Stone is located on Victoria Street in Forres, about 500 yards west of the Findhorn Road intersection. The stone is embedded in a low lying meridian at the center of the road.

The site of Forres Castle is located at the southwest corner of Castlehill Road and High Street in Forres. Look for the obelisk known as the Thomson Monument.

Sueno’s Stone is located on Findhorn Road in Forres. Traveling east, the stone is enclosed in a glass building on the left side of Findhorn Road, near the intersection with Victoria Street.

Inverness Castle – take Castle Wynd off of Bridge Street in Inverness.

Cawdor Castle – take the Culloden exit from Highway A9 south of Inverness and follow signs to the castle which is approximately 4 miles west of Nairn.

Scone Palace lies just north of Perth on highway A93.

The Birnam Oak is in the town of Birnam (on the south side of the River Tay, opposite Dunkeld). The oak is situated 430 yards behind the Birnam House Hotel.

Dunsinnan Hill (Dunsinane) – turn off Highway A94 to the village of Collace, north of Perth; drive through the village and stop at a turn in the road just outside of town. Dunsinnan Hill is clearly marked.

The Palace of Holyroodhouse is at the east end of the Royal Mile in Edinburgh.

Edinburgh Castle is at the west end of the Royal Mile.

Scone Palace, the Palace of Holyrudehouse and Edinburgh Castle may all be visited by using the Great British Heritage Pass http://www.thebudgettravelstore.com/page/234746205

Plan your vacation at www.plan-a-dream-trip.com

About the author:
Troy Herrick, a freelance travel writer, has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. His articles have appeared in both Live Life Travel and International Living Magazines. He also penned the travel planning e-book entitled “Turn Your Dream Vacation into Reality: A Game Plan for Seeing the World The Way You Want to See It” based on his own travel experiences over the years. www.thebudgettravelstore.com

Photographs:
All photos by Diane Gagnon. A freelance photographer, she has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. Her photographs have accompanied Troy Herrick’s articles in Live Life Travel Magazine.
1. Inverness Castle with statue of Flora Macdonald
2. Forres – Witches stone in front of a police station
3. Forres – James Thompson monument (site of Duncan’s Castle)
4. Cawdor Castle
5. Scone Palace
6. Dunsinnan Hill
7. Birnam Oak

Tagged With: Macbeth locations, Scotland travel Filed Under: UK Travel

History and Legend at Tintagel, Cornwall

Cornwall coast at Tintagel

by Kathy Simcox

Did King Arthur exist? Was Excaliber real? Did Lancelot sweep Guinevere off her feet and seal the fate of Camelot? These questions are in my mind as I stand on the top of the cliffs where Tintagel, the English Heritage site and the mythical birthplace of one of the most famous legends in British history, perches. I have always enjoyed the Arthurian stories, which is why I had always wanted to travel to those wind-swept cliffs of Cornwall to walk among Tintagel’s castle ruins.

The legend: During what has become known as the Dark Ages (approx. 400 AD – 1000 AD), the Duke of Cornwall, Gorlois, and his wife Igraine held a party at their castle, and the High King of Britain, Uther Pendragon, attended. He and Igraine met and fell in love, but she was of course betrothed to someone else. The Saxon raids were increasing and Uther summoned the duke to war. During a break in the raiding, Uther rode to Tintagel to visit Igraine. It was during this time that the magician Merlin feared for Britain’s future since Uther did not have an heir. He decided to take matters into his own hands and placed a spell on Uther, making the king appear to be the duke himself. So when Igraine saw Uther, she thought he was her husband. They spent the night together and thus Arthur was born. So the legend goes.

ruins of Tintagel CastleI have always been intrigued by this part of Cornwall and the stone ruins that are scattered among the flowery cliffs. My tour group was given two-and-a-half hours to do whatever it wanted: to roam the streets of Tintagel village situated several hundred feet from the ruins to browse the shops, explore the 14th century Old Post Office, a still-used post office protected by the National Trust, indulge in Devonshire Cream Tea, or to walk among the crumbling castle ruins to listen to the crashing waves and be blown to bits by the fierce winds screaming in from the Atlantic among the cottages in Cornwall.

Despite my Arthurian intrigue, I wasn’t sure what to do. The area surrounding the village is dated from the Iron Age (750 BC – 150 AD), which I found fascinating. But I remembered why I wanted to visit Tintagel in the first place, so I headed out toward the ruins.

It only took one glance out into the swirling, deep-blue ocean to convince me to spend the entire two-and-a-half hours riveted to the spot. The castle ruins themselves aren’t much to look at, just several stacks of stones, divided into what used to be separate chambers, the remains of an arch and tower. But the appeal, and lure, of them is twofold: the Arthurian legends coupled with the breath-taking scenery.

steep staircase leads to Tintagel CastleIn order to navigate safely throughout the complex, and to get the most out of the experience, I climbed down the steep staircases that had been built up and down the cliff faces. The stairs led to a beach and once I had safely landed on the damp sand and pebbles, I could really feel, see, and hear the power of the wind. I looked out toward the ocean past a large boulder situated about fifty yards from where I was standing and watched as the sea churned and slammed dangerously against the cliffs. The bizarre weather in this mythical southwest corner of England was something I had never experienced before.

Merlin's Cave at TintagelI turned away from the tempestuous scene and glanced behind me. Cascading over the cliff to the pebbled beach stretched a lovely waterfall. And to my immediate right gaped the infamous Merlin’s Cave, a tunnel of stone carved out of the cliff face from years and years of flowing water and rising tides. I couldn’t let the cave go unexplored, so with the sound of crunching pebbles and slamming surf in my ears, I walked through the arched entrance. The wind was even more deafening as it screamed through the tunnel so I didn’t linger inside very long; just long enough dampen my feet. Once outside the cave, I noticed the tide indeed was rising fast, and so I made my breath-stealing ascent up the steep, wooden steps to the top of the cliff and back toward the ancient village to where the tour bus idly sputtered.

Did King Arthur exist? Was Excaliber real? Did Lancelot sweep Guinevere off her feet and seal the fate of Camelot? As I turn and glance back past the blowing grass and out toward the white-capped Atlantic, I imagine Arthur and his knights of the Round Table galloping across the rolling hills, defending their infant country against the Saxons. For a fleeting moment, I allow the legends to be real.

Perhaps we all have a little Arthur in all of us – chivalrous, adventurous, brave, and true. In that brief, fleeting moment, I did. I turned back toward the bus with a smile, satisfied that I could erase another life wish from my bucket list. Arthur, and his legendary memory, will always be in my heart.

Additional Information:

Tintagel Castle at English Heritage

ADMISSION: (Non-members) Adult: £4.50, Concession: £3.40, Child: £2.30

Opening Times:
1 Apr – 30 Sep, daily 10am – 6pm
1-31 Oct, daily 10am – 5pm
1 Nov – 20 Mar, daily 10am – 4pm
Closed, 24-26 Dec and 1 Jan

HOW TO GET THERE:

On Tintagel Head, 600 metres (660 yards) along uneven track from Tintagel; no vehicles except Land Rover service
Bus: Western Greyhoud 524 Bude-Wadebridge, 594 Bude-Truro (with connections on 555 at Wadebridge to Bodmin Parkway [Rail])
Tel: 01840 770328

Browse Tintagel Tours Now Available

About the author:
Kathy Simcox lives in Hilliard, Ohio. Ms. Simcox is an office manager at the College of the Arts at Ohio State University. She has a BA in psychology from Ohio University and has recently graduated from Ohio State with a 2nd B.A. in Religious Studies. She is active at All Saints Lutheran Church in Worthington, singing in the music program and serving her last year as council secretary. She enjoys traveling, writing, kayaking, hiking, biking, cross country skiing, swimming, Irish music, British comedies, playing Bodhran, and Guinness. She is also known to pick up an occasional book, preferably historical fiction. Kathy can be reached at simcox1@gmail.com. Some of her work can be viewed at: community.webshots.com and www.facebook.com.

All photos are by Kathy Simcox.

Tagged With: Cornwall travel, Tintagel Filed Under: UK Travel

England: Finding Jane Austen in Hampshire

Jane Austen house and museum, Hampshire

by Cindy-Lou Dale

the Hampshire countrysideHampshire is a truly remarkable corner of the English countryside with historic towns, boasting rich cultural heritage and small picture-postcard villages. Soft hills and deep green valley’s punctuated by sheep, and deeply wooded forests populated by wild ponies. You may feel yourself transported back in time when driving along the country roads, past ancient thatched cottages and ‘olde worlde’ pubs that serve traditional ales and pub lunches. Should you decide to call at one of these quaint English country pubs, take a tip from this seasoned traveler. Don’t make jokes when visiting England. English folk are reserved and pride themselves in their steely wit, composure and restraint.

garden of Jane Austen's houseThe most famous person from Hampshire is undoubtedly the writer, Jane Austen, (Sense and Sensibility; Pride and Prejudice; Northanger Abbey). Jane was born in the small hamlet of Steventon in 1775. Twenty-six years later her father, the Reverend George Austen, moved his family to Bath and soon Jane moved to Southampton, eventually returning to her beloved Hampshire in 1809, after her brother, Edward, gave her a permanent home at Chawton. She revised and published Sense and Sensibility (1811) and Pride and Prejudice (1813), followed by Mansfield Park (1814), and Emma (1816). She died of Addison’s disease in 1817, aged only 41. Her remains have been laid to rest at Winchester Cathedral’s North Aisle of the Nave. After her death, Jane’s final two novels, Northanger Abbey and Persuasion, were published. These were the first books published under her own name; all of the novels published during her lifetime were simply inscribed as being penned “By a Lady”.

To reach Steventon you need to pass through a tunnel beneath the Basingstoke-to-Winchester railway line, built on a high embankment. On approach you bypass the hamlet of Dummer – once the home of Sarah Ferguson, Duchess of York.

St Nicholas church, SteventonOnce in Steventon, hidden in a quiet spot, off a tiny country lane, you’ll find the thirteenth century Church of St. Nicholas. Turn off your car’s engine, climb out and step hundreds of years back in time, into a world of peace and silence. The rectory, home of the Austen’s, in the field beyond and to the right of the churchyard was destroyed in a fire and all that now remains is a fenced well. Wander around awhile and soak up the surroundings, let the surrounds and peaceful parish soothe you into thoughts of rural living in another time. Once you have taken in the pastoral atmosphere step into the 700-year old church where Jane Austen worshiped and listened to her father voice his memorable sermons. The church remains effectively unchanged by Victorian restoration, and is still much the same as when Jane Austen visited.

Famous People from Hampshire:

Sarah Ferguson, Duchess of York.
Charles Kingsley, author of The Water Babies.
Richard Adams the author of Watership Down.
Charles Dickens was born in Portsmouth.
Thomas Burberry, inventor of gabardine and maker of coats.
Composer Andrew Lloyd Weber lives in a grand manor house at Sydmonton.
Former Formula One World Champion, Jody Scheckter, lives in Laverstoke.
Actor, Jeremy Irons, was born on the Isle of Wight.
Liz Hurley, model and actress, attended college in Basingstoke.
Mark King, of pop group ‘Level 42’ fame, lives on the Isle of Wight.
Gilbert White the naturalist.


London Literary Walking Tour Of Bloomsbury

If You Go:

In the neighboring village of Chawton, is the seventeenth century Jane Austen’s museum. The beautifully kept home holds an assortment of memorabilia including Jane’s writing desk and a bureau-bookcase containing some of her first editions. The museum also boasts a peaceful eighteenth century garden containing a variety of plants and herbs common in that era. In the Old Bakehouse you will find the newly restored donkey carriage (used till this day), which Jane employed when too weak to travel on foot. The museum shop has a selection of souvenirs and a good collection of Jane Austen related books, videos (including a series shown on television), CDs and cassettes of readings.

The villages of Chawton and Alton are celebrating Jane Austen’s life and works in a range of events including music, talks, museum displays, readings, horse-drawn carriages, a ‘Fashion through the ages’ show, Victorian Cricket, and a Regency Evening in June 2008. For more information please visit the Jane Austen Regency Week website.

After enjoying Jane Austen’s museum, travel a mile or two further to the local railway station and take a trip on an authentic steam-engine across the Hampshire countryside.

For further advice and details of nearby accommodations, contact the Basingstoke Tourist Information Centre on +44 (0)1256 817618

 

About the author:
Cindy is an award winning writer and photojournalist whose been featured in numerous publications across the globe. She heralds from a small farming community in Southern Africa and has since lived in 18 countries. Currently her roots are in a village on the Kent coast in England.

Photo credits:
Jane Austen House Museum by R ferroni2000 / CC BY-SA
All other photos are by Cindy-Lou Dale.

Tagged With: England travel, Hampshire attractions Filed Under: UK Travel

Wondrous Sea Caves on the Isle of Skye

formations in Spar Cave, Skye

by James Carron

The Spar Cave on Scotland’s Isle of Skye is a truly wondrous place. In the 19th century it was a fashionable destination for well-to-do Victorian trippers, drawn north to the rugged Strathaird peninsula by Sir Walter Scott’s poem The Lord of the Isles in which he wrote of a mermaid bathing in a pool concealed deep within the enchanted cell. Steamers set a course here from Glasgow in the 1820s and ’30s and locally organized boat trips were always well subscribed. But at some point in history the cave’s popularity dwindled and these days only those with a real spirit of adventure find their way to the entrance of a secret underground world that must surely be one of Scotland’s natural wonders.

the author at entrance to Spar CaveAccessing the cave is no easy task. To reach it I first had to make my way to Broadford and then wound my way down the single-track road that links the island’s second largest town with the tiny hamlet of Glasnakille, the last outpost of civilization on the peninsula.

Unlike many of the world’s spectacular cave systems, there is no visitor centre here. Indeed, the cave is not even signed from the road and admittance is restricted to just a few hours a day when the tide is at its lowest ebb.

A ruined stone barn just south of the road junction in Glasnakille marks the start point of a faint path down to the sea. The route drops through a deep chasm to reach a cove strewn with well-polished stone and sharp, angular rocks. Jurassic limestone cliffs rise up from the shoreline and it is difficult to imagine the coastal walker making much progress in either direction. But bear left and a course can be carefully picked out. The cave is not far off in terms of distance, but the terrain requires a slow and measured scramble over stones and larger slabs of rock, some of which can be perilously slippery.

The cave is just around the next headland and natural ledges cut into the rock assist here. The entrance remains hidden from view and it is only when you enter a vast ravine that it at last appears in all its majestic glory.

the author inside Spar Cave, SkyeThe canyon drives 200 feet inland and vertical walls of rock on either side rise at least 100 feet into the sky. John Macculloch visited the cave during his Scottish travels between 1811 and 1821 and likened it to ‘some deep cathedral aisle’.

At the top of this aisle, the moss-covered remains of an old wall stand guard over the entrance. It was built in the 19th century by landowner Alexander MacAllister to prevent people visiting without a guide. But it failed to deter some, including Sir Walter Scott who scaled the wall using a rope when he visited in 1814.

Beyond the ruined wall, two passages present themselves. The muddy tunnel on the right leads nowhere while the one on the left takes you deep into the mystical chamber where Scott’s mermaid ‘bathes her limbs in sunless well, deep in Strathaird’s enchanted cell… where dazzling spars gleam like a firmament of stars’.

tunnel in Spar caveThis ‘spar’ gave the cave its popular name, but its true Gaelic title is Slochd Altrimen, or Nursing Cave. This dates from the ninth century when a local princess fell in love with the son of the chief of Colonsay who was shipwrecked on the Strathaird coast. Unfortunately the fathers of the young lovers were sworn enemies and when she gave birth to a child, the baby was concealed in the cave to ensure its survival until the feud was settled.

At this point a torch is required as any remaining shreds of daylight are quickly lost, the passage curving into darkness to reach the base of an incredible flowstone staircase. Coated in a fine sheen of clear water, the marble-like slope at first appears impossible to scale. The calcium, however, offers excellent grip for walking boots and initially there are plenty of good footholds.

Half way up, the gradient increases and footholds are fewer, making the ascent more challenging. But persevere and the ground flattens out to form a plateau flanked by all manner of weird and wonderful configurations, centuries in the making and ever changing under the constant caress of the calcium-rich water that oozes gently through the limestone rock. The ceiling once boasted great stalactites but sadly Victorian souvenir hunters took these. It remains, however, a breath-taking sight, eerily quiet but for the constant dripping of water.

The narrow cut in the cliff certainly belies the true beauty concealed within. Casting a torch around the walls and ceiling reveals a multitude of strange natural creations, an unworldly mix of different formations. Some are smooth, highly polished orbs of calcium dripping with straggly alabaster dreadlocks. Others are more grotesque, peering out of the gloom like monstrously deformed faces, sprouting endless steams of gnarled tentacles. Pools on the floor ripple constantly under the eternal dripping of cool water, calcium deposits solidifying around the edges in thin sheets of unbreakable ice.

Beyond the plateau, the floor slopes away sharply, dropping to a deep pool of water flanked by flowstone arches. This is Scott’s ‘sunless well’. The only way across is to swim, but the cave ends abruptly a short distance on.

Unfortunately, visiting time to the Spar Cave is limited by the tide. Although the cave itself never floods, the channel outside fills completely with water as the sea rises, cutting the cavern off until it is ready to receive its next visitors.

The Spar Cave is by no means Skye’s only coastal cavern worth visiting. The island’s coastline is dotted with secret grottos. Some are completely inaccessible on foot, while others can only be reached at low tide. From Elgol, a path heads south to Prince Charlie’s Cave. It was here that the Jacobite spent his last few hours on Skye in July 1746 before leaving for the mainland and then, ultimately, France. Located on the coast at Port an Luig Mhoir, it is not an easy one to find. Near Peinchorran and The Braes, a strange dogleg peninsula extends out into the sea and here there is a proliferation of hidden caves, pinnacles and sea stacks. The most impressive feature is a brittle rock arch that spans a deep canyon.

entrance to Piper's Cave, SkyePiper’s Cave, at the southern end of Harlosh Point, requires a half mile walk across grazing land from the end of a loop road off the A863 that serves the scattered communities of Harlosh, Balmore and Ardmore. Where the land ends and the sea begins, a spindly 30-foot high basalt sea stack is the first indication you are on the right track. A steep path descends to the base of the stack and, with the tide low, it is possible to scramble along the rocky shoreline to the cave entrance. The mouth is impressively tall but the tunnel within tapers sharply into a dark, narrow passage.

My final cave hunt took me north through Uig on to the Trotternish peninsula where the island’s most northerly point, Rubha Hunish, tickles the Atlantic Ocean. A few miles down the west coast of this fat finger lies Uamh Oir, or Cave of Gold. This was to be a fittingly spectacular end to my cave quest, the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. Although the cave cannot be entered on foot, it is visually spectacular from outside, featuring a pavement of hexagonal basalt columns similar to those found at Fingal’s Cave, on the island of Staffa, and at the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland. It is a geological wonder, one of many I had witnessed on Skye, and the ultimate reward for a weekend of exhilarating and, at times, rather slippery, coastal exploration.


Isle of Skye Tour

If You Go:

Getting there:
The Isle of Skye is a five-hour drive from Glasgow. Scottish Citylink operates coach services from Glasgow to Portree. The nearest railway station is at Kyle of Lochalsh.

Getting around:
Bus services on Skye are operated by Highland Country Buses. Service 49 runs from Portree to Broadford, Elgol and Glasnakille. Service 56 links Portree, Dunvegan and Bracadale while service 57A and 57B run from Portree to Uig.

More information:
The main tourist information centre on Skye is in Portree and it is open all year.

Check the tides:
High and low tide times are displayed in the window of the tourist information centre in Portree. Alternatively, log on to Isle of Skye tides chart.

About the author:
Based in Scotland, James Carron is a freelance writer. He specializes in features on hiking, backpacking, camping and practical conservation, both in Scotland and overseas and writes regularly for a number of UK consumer magazines and newspapers. His other interests include travel, mountain-biking and sea-kayaking. He is currently researching the life of a hermit who lived in one of the remotest parts of the British Isles with a view to writing a biography.

All photos are by James Carron.

Tagged With: Isle of Skye attractions, Scotland travel Filed Under: UK Travel

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