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Why October Is the Best Month to Visit Croatia

Dubrovnik city wall

When most people think of Croatia, they picture the summer crowds, packed beaches, and lively waterfronts. But for those who prefer peace, comfort, and authenticity, October paints a very different picture.

During these days, the air turns crisp, the Adriatic glistens under softer sunlight, and the streets become quieter. Hence, it becomes a perfect spot for travelers seeking a more intimate experience.

For a fact, October sits at that sweet spot between summer’s rush and winter’s chill. It’s the month when you can explore the scenic Split Rock Saddle in Croatia freely and experience the country as locals do.

That said, here’s why October stands out as the best time to visit Croatia. There you go!

1. Fewer Crowds and Effortless Travel

By October, the summer crowds have drifted away, leaving behind tranquil towns and open landscapes. Places like Dubrovnik, Split, and Rovinj feel different now. Of course, they are still full of life, but in a gentler, more local rhythm. You can walk along ancient city walls without waiting in line or stop at roadside cafés where locals gather to sip coffee and watch the world go by.

Traveling in Croatia in autumn also means the roads are clearer, and the entire experience feels more effortless. It’s a great time to take scenic drives through wine valleys, mountain passes, and coastal stretches that glow in warm, golden light.

The best part? For those who want to experience this kind of easygoing travel, reliable transfer options make a big difference. Some trusted companies like Taxi4Travel make it easy to explore the place at your own pace. Whether it’s a scenic drive to a vineyard, a coastal village, or a mountain retreat, having a trusted local driver lets you simply sit back and enjoy the journey.

Ultimately, during this time of the year, Croatia truly belongs to the explorers — the ones who love quiet beauty and authentic encounters.

2. Perfect Weather for Exploring and Adventure

October in Croatia brings mild and pleasant weather. It is warm enough for outdoor adventures yet cool enough for comfortable sightseeing. The coastal areas typically see temperatures between 18 and 22°C. On the flip side, inland regions offer that crisp fall breeze perfect for hikes and nature walks.

This balanced climate allows travelers to experience the best of both worlds. You can enjoy a beach picnic one day and explore national parks or historic fortresses the next. It’s also an excellent month for sailing, cycling, and hiking without the intense summer heat. Moreover, the Adriatic waters remain relatively warm in early October. So, if you’re feeling brave, a quick dip is still possible.

3. Lower Prices and Flexible Travel Plans

Another major advantage of visiting Croatia in October is affordability. Hotels, guesthouses, and villas often reduce their rates after the high season ends. That makes luxury stays surprisingly budget-friendly. Airfares also drop, and you’ll find plenty of last-minute deals for both accommodation and tours.

Beyond savings, flexibility becomes your best friend. You can linger longer in a favorite destination, change routes spontaneously, or stop at charming roadside cafés without worrying about crowds or bookings. Even top attractions like Plitvice Lakes or Krka National Park are easier to access, with shorter lines and quieter trails.

Since October is considered the shoulder season, you’ll find it much easier to experience Croatia your way.

4. A Taste of Croatia’s Autumn Culture and Harvest

October marks the beginning of Croatia’s harvest season, when vineyards, olive groves, and farms come alive with activity. Local festivals celebrate everything from wine and truffles to chestnuts and olive oil, giving travelers a chance to taste authentic Croatian culture.

In Istria, for example, truffle season peaks in October, and the air fills with the rich aroma of this prized delicacy. Meanwhile, along the Dalmatian coast, small fishing towns host food fairs where you can sample seasonal dishes prepared with freshly caught seafood and local produce.

It’s also a time when cultural life flourishes. Zagreb hosts film festivals, local art exhibitions, and music events, while coastal towns blend summer’s lingering charm with autumn’s cozy pace. This blend of flavor, culture, and tradition makes traveling in October feel like stepping into Croatia’s true identity — vibrant, welcoming, and proudly local.

Conclusion

October isn’t just another travel month in Croatia — it’s a revelation. It’s when the beaches belong to the locals again, the sunsets glow warmer, and the entire country slows down to breathe. Travelers get the best of both worlds: the lingering beauty of summer and the charm of autumn.

From peaceful road trips and affordable stays to rich cultural celebrations, the place proves that travel magic doesn’t always happen in peak season. Sometimes, it’s waiting quietly — on the open roads, along the quiet harbors, and in the soft golden light of autumn.

 

 

 

Tagged With: Croatia travel Filed Under: Europe Travel

Rijeka, One of Europe’s Largest Carnivals Is In Croatia

Rijeka carnival banner

by Sonja Slijepcevic 

The motto of Rijeka’s Great Carnival “Die, but never give up” expresses the very essence and soul of the carnival. As someone once said, despite the long history, playful and satirical spirit of the carnival, it doesn’t show any slowing down, in fact it is growing in its popularity from season to season.

carnival masksToday we know that the carnival existed in some form from before the 15th century. A document was found which dates back to 1449 and provides evidence that the City Council prohibited the covering the face with a mask during the carnival celebrations. The reason behind this decision was to prevent the open criticism and satirical expression of opinion towards the government and its officers.

In the present time, we mostly consider the carnival big fun for the whole family, with a lot of music, dancing with masks, songs, laughter and the mandatory special donuts (krafne) as one of the carnival symbols.

“Zvoncari” – bellmen (bell-ringers) from this region were included in the program of the Winter Olympics in Sarajevo in 1980 and started to boost the interest for the historic and cultural background of this tradition.

In 1982 the Rijeka Carnival was once again revived under the Rijeka’s Tourist Alliance and organized a “walk” with masks to bring something new into the city’s touristic offer. This was a spark which ignited a bigger fire for the region’s attractions and events that every year brings thousands of new visitors to enjoy this great event.

Nowadays, the Carnival also puts a new light on the traditional and cultural value of the event which shows the rich history of the area to the world.

 

The city of Rijeka is also accepted as a full member of the Federation of European Carnival Cities and the carnival was added to the list of the 500 most important events in Europe. In 2009, the Rijeka Tourist Board won the “Golden Tourist Heart” award, as the organizer of the best tourism event in south-eastern Europe.

Rijeka carnival is a unique mix of European urban carnival and mythological rural custom and tradition.

The carnival, actually, has its roots in pre-Christian, pagan beliefs that wearing masks, dancing and making noise, would scare off the bad spirits and welcome the spring and new life. This custom can’t be imagined without bells and horns. The bells noise would scare away any evil powers, while the horns were a symbol of fertility. Later, the burning of the “pust” (puppet) which symbolized everything bad in the past year, had been included in the rituals.

Zvoncari -bellmen or bell-ringers are well-known participants in the carnivals and processions in rural areas surrounding Rijeka. The groups of bell-ringers usually wear sheep skins (fur), large head masks with horns and big bells around their waist. Local people say that you have to be born into the “family” of Zvoncar-bellmen, you can’t just become a Zvoncar. This means that you must be a strong, tall man capable to “fight” and protect your home.

Grobnik DondolasiOne group of regular bellmen participants in the Rijeka carnival parade is a group of Grobnik Dondolasi. The term “dondolas” has its origin in a word “dondolo” which means bell. The legend says that dondolasi have their origin from shepherds. The shepherds would wear frightening masks and sheep’s fur to scare away wild animals and bad spirits away from their livestock.

Today Dondolasi are the safe-keepers of old traditions and custom. They usually start their walks (procession) through the villages on the first Saturday in January.

Halubje bell-ringersAt the carnival, every time when the procession stops, the bell ringers form a circle which is a defense formation in the open space. In the middle of the circle their flag is held high to symbolize the value of people, family, their country and bravery. The bell- ringers then rise their arms to show their determination to defend their values.

The Halubje bell-ringers from the nearby area also found their place on the UNESCO’s world list of non-material cultural heritage.

This year the Rijeka carnival celebration started on January 17th and the international closing parade as a crown of the celebration, will take place on March 3rd. The kids’ parade with masks took place on February 16 on a beautiful sunny Saturday. Thousands of kids, parents and spectators enjoyed music, colourful masks and children’s smiling faces.

children dressed as witchesFor months, many kindergartens and schools have been preparing original masks to represent their cities or municipalities. This year we were able to see the little witches in red, smart little owls or busy bees, “dangerous”- looking wild animals from Africa or cute blue smurfs with white hats. One kindergarten group proudly dressed up as cabbage and beans, reminding everyone of the healthy organically grown local food.

Everyone has fun including the numerous tourists who often come from nearby countries to escape the cold winter days and surrender themselves to the warm sunny Mediterranean climate in Rijeka or the islands of Krk, Cres and Mali Losinj. Carnival and its parades add to the special experience of their stay.

The city of Rijeka opens its doors during this fun joyful time to tourists and locals alike with numerous concerts, exhibitions, happenings for all generations, as well as with a plethora of culinary specialities in restaurants, hotels and cafes. The city is alive with colours, imagination and as organizers say: “Come and be what you wish”!!!

If You Go:

  1. Carnival usually starts in January, but the best time to join is during the February, when the major festival parades take place
  2. The best way to get to Rijeka is to land at the Zagreb international airport and from there you have about 1.5- hour drive to Rijeka. Distance between Zagreb and Rijeka is around 150 km.
  3. From Zagreb you may take regular coach bus a few times a day to Rijeka. The travel is about 2.5 hours. Bus is solid and safe transportation.
  4. The highway Zagreb Rijeka is a toll route.
  5. Another option is to fly to Pula (Istria Peninsula) and from Pula you have a bus to Rijeka. Rijeka-Pula distance is approx. 100km. By bus it’s about a two hour-drive, several buses daily.
  6. Additional information about Rijeka Carnival – accommodations (hotels, B&B’s, apartment rentals), car rental etc. is available on internet.
  7. English, German and Italian languages are widely used at the restaurants, hotels, tourist offices and agencies


7- or 9-Night Best of Croatia Tour: Zagreb, Split, Hvar, Korcula and Dubrovnik

Photo credits:
Rijeka carnival banner on parade – from Marina botel
Masks-symbols of carnivals- photo by Sonja Slijepcevic
Grobnik Dondolasi- photo by Rabko-CC BY-SA 3.0 free to share
Zejanski i Halubajski zvoncari – photo by: Roberta F.-CC BY-SA 3.0.-free to share
Little witches in red- photo by Sonja Slijepcevic


MAXI TOUR ZAGREB

 About the author:

Sonja Slijepcevic is a freelance travel writer and photographer, a member of the International Travel Writers and Photographers Alliance (ITWPA), who for years has been combining her love of travel, passion for photography and professional career in the project management field. She likes meeting people from different cultures and backgrounds, enjoys history and art, and likes to write about these experiences.

Some of her photography and articles have been published in different Canadian magazines and newspapers such as www.travelthruhistory.com  or  www.wanderousaffair.com.

She was born in the capital city of Croatia, Zagreb and has been living in Canada for 26 years.

Tagged With: Croatia travel, Rijeka, Zagreb carnival, Zagreb tours Filed Under: Europe Travel

Sibenik, Croatia: A Hidden Beauty

Sibenik, Croatia
by Alex Dragas 

One of the jewels on the Adriatic coast is Sibenik, a city nestled along the coastline and surrounded by fortresses. It is a spot unique for many things, not only as far as strategic significance is concerned, but historical effect too. Its view, together with its fortresses and the surrounding town testify of its tumultuous past and continuous resistance for centuries. But even with all the wars, Sibenik has remained firm in all its magnificence. I visited this city once a couple of years ago and it really stuck with me, its architecture, people, food and overall atmosphere of the town are really welcoming and it is a city you can easily feel like you are at home.

EARLY HISTORY

Unlike other Croatian cities on the Adriatic coast, which were established by Romans, Greeks and Illyrians, Sibenik was instituted by Croats. Created as an ancient encampment base, at the foot of St Michael’s Fortress, Sibenik was first cited in a document issued by the then Croatian ruler Peter Kresimir IV in 1066. However, it did not gain the status of a native town until the year 1290 when the Diocese of Sibenik was built.

Croatia symbolLEADERSHIP STRIFE

Sibenik’s rule changed hands several times from the 12th to the 15th century. It was a battle of Croatian, Byzantine, Hungarian, Venetian, Herzegovinian and Bosnian reign until 1409 when Venice took the crown. However, there was a back and forth wrench for about three years before it was finally brought under the radar. In the 17th century, the Turks attempted their luck with the town but were not successful due to the strengthened fortresses. It was not until 1797 that the Venice fell, and the city was taken over by the Austrians.

ELECTRIC STRONGHOLD

Sibenik was the first Dalmatian town to have electricity thanks to an engineer Vjekoslav Meichner and the then mayor of the city. In 1895, they built the first transmission of generating and distributing alternating current. They say that the Forbes hydropower plant in USA’s Niagara Falls started operating in the year 1895, but the town got electricity almost a year later. So with that said, it can only be safe to assume that Sibenik got public electric lighting before any other capital in the world.

GENERAL FEATURES OF THE TOWN

Sibenik is a small town of about 35000 inhabitants. It is situated in a picturesque bay at the mouth of Krka, one of the most stunning rivers in Croatia which also encloses a national park that goes by the same name. What sets Sibenik apart, is its superbly manicured appearance featuring limitless sights that attract tourists from all corners of the world year on year.

Cathedram Saint JamesThe cathedral of St James is by far the most impressive achievement in the city and it defies comparison due to its excellent construction. This three-nave Gothic Renaissance is the brainchild of Juraj Dalamanatic and was built during a period of Turkish attacks. What you see today actually took more than a century to build. Interestingly, there are 72 stone heads around the cathedral which represent locals who did not care to give a hand in the construction of the cathedral. I read a lot about this cathedral before visiting it and my friends told me that I should definitely go and check this building out when I visited Sibenik so of course I did. It is a massive building that towers over you but every piece of it contains a different kind of beauty that you just cannot stop looking at. I spent a couple of hours there just enjoying the view and learning a bit about this marvelous building, completely mesmerized.

Neighboring the cathedral is the Duke’s palace, a major defensive system in the 13th and 14th century. What remains of it today is the part where the Duke stayed. The rest of it has been taken up by three beautiful museums- Archeological, Historical, and Ethnographic. On the wall, there is a coat of arms representing St Michael, the patron of the city.

In the center of the city, sits one of the most valuable buildings, Renaissance Town Hall built in the 16th century and the Bunari (four wells) dug to supply drinking water to the town during the 17th century. The wells were also another masterpiece created by Juraj Dalmatinac, the inventor of all important buildings in Sibenik. Today, the locality has been turned into a museum where various cultural manifestations are showcased.

REAL ESTATE

Real estate in Sibenik continues to be popular among foreign buyers. This is partly attributed to the fact that it is only an hour drive from the second largest city in Croatia-Split. Additionally, the prices are generally cheaper compared to other touristy towns in the country. Its real estate is in its prime, with deep-rooted stone houses, nestled in picturesque bay overlooking the cool azure waters, it gives you a nice historical feeling that you crave for. Due to its rich history this town is very popular with the tourists and visitors thus giving this city a big spotlight, that is one of many reasons why Sibenik is one of the most sought after cities for tourists plus due to its position it is close to everything you could possibly want.

Sibenik may be historically one of the richest cities in Croatia but modern Sibenik provides you with plenty of activities, sights, happenings and much more so visiting this town is a no-brainer. No matter how young or old you might be, in this city you can find something that will peak your interest. I visited this city when it was summer and there were a couple of festivals and fairs going on that were really unique and fun to be a part of. Go and see for yourself and enjoy everything this marvelous city has to offer.

If You Go:

♦ Cathedral St. James and Bunari are all accessible by bus or if you are an explorer who do not want to be limited by time and schedule just rent a car and go explore yourself.
♦ Since Sibenik is a small town you can pretty much go by bus everywhere.
♦ For National Park Krka you can book a bus.


Adriatic Coast Nature: Sibenik and Krka National Park Private Day from Split

About the author:
Alex Dragas enjoys researching and learning new things, eating foreign food and visiting places. Traveling and writing are his passion and he tries to combine those as much as he can.

Photographs are from Pixabay

Tagged With: Croatia travel, sibenik attractions Filed Under: Europe Travel

Discovering Split, Croatia’s Coastal Gem

Diocletians mausoleum, Split Croatia

History, Culture and Vibrancy

by Goky Brkic

With a population of more than two hundred thousand, Split is the second largest city in Croatia and the center of the coastal region of Dalmatia. Known for its culture, history, and tourist attractions, Split is the best Croatia has to offer.

History and Landmarks

Cathedral of Saint DomniusThe origins of the city can be traced all the way to the Romans. The Roman Emperor Diocletian, who lived in the 4th century AD, wanted to build himself a retirement mansion. He liked the area of today’s Split for its natural beauties and the warm Adriatic Sea, so he had it built there. In the centuries that followed, the city of Split grew around it, even after the Romans were long gone. The Palace and its surroundings eventually become the historical city core of Split (or Split Old Town), and nowadays the remains of the Diocletian’s Palace are among the best preserved remains of a Roman palace in the world. It was included in the register of the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage in 1979, and is even featured on Croatian banknotes. Built in an irregular rectangle, it was a combination of a luxurious villa and a military camp. Its walls and the center court, the Peristyle, now housing various vendors and souvenir shops, can be explored freely by tourists. However, a tour through its cellar includes a 5 Euro entrance fee.

Some Roman structures were modified to serve a different purpose, such as the unused Diocletian’s mausoleum, which was incorporated into the Cathedral of St. Domnius, another of the city’s landmarks. Consecrated in the 7th century AD, historians believe it’s the second oldest structure to serve as a Christian Cathedral. Even though some of its parts were constructed afterwards, such as the 12th century Bell Tower, the Cathedral remains an important example of Romanesque architecture in the Mediterranean.

Museums and Culture

Split Gallery of Fine ArtA city of such interesting history has several museums and galleries in which parts of that history are exhibited. For instance, the Gallery of Fine Arts contains works spanning through six centuries, thus providing an overview of artistic movements in Split and Croatia. Founded in 1931, it houses one of the greatest exhibitions of paintings and sculpture by major Croatian artists, but dedicating space to contemporary art as well.

The Split City Museum features a collection of local cultural, artistic, and economic heritage, plus a collection of works by Emanuel Vidovic, the greatest Split-based painter of the 20th century. If you wish to learn more about the traditional Dalmatian lifestyle, visit the Ethnographic Museum, dedicated to promoting folk heritage and finding its new, contemporary applications.

The Adriatic Sea was crucial in shaping the lives and culture of the people of the city. Split’s inhabitants were always sailors and fishermen, and the exhibits of the Croatian Maritime Museum show that part of their lifestyle. Displaying marine equipment, weapons, navigation gear, ship models, uniforms and related artwork, it’s crucial in understanding the Dalmatian history and culture.

Cuisine

Prsui- Dalmatian dry hamThe cuisine of Split and the surrounding area is heavily based on seafood; fish, clams, oysters are usually boiled or grilled and served with vegetables or potato. Local delicacies include grilled sardines, the octopus salad, or the special kind of dry ham called “prsut”. Served with local wine, the food is usually not spicy, but some restaurants, drawing influences from other Mediterranean countries, started adding exotic spices to traditional Dalmatian dishes, giving them a new spin. For classic local delicacies search for a “konoba” sign, denoting a family-owned tavern specialized in authentic dishes. Of course, if you’re not a lover of seafood, there are plenty of fast food joints in every part of the city.

Nightlife

Split city and harbourDuring the summer tourist season the local nightlife flourishes, especially along the Bacvice beachside, featuring several late-opening clubs and beach bars. But the city is big and diverse enough for anyone, with different clubs playing vastly different music. Electronic music lovers should proceed to the minimally decorated Quasimodo, Split’s top venue for DJ nights, or the Jungla (Hula Hula), playing house and techno music. Rock lovers should visit the Kocka or Judino Drvo, where local bands often perform. O’ Hara Music Club is popular among tourists, due to its attractive location at the Zenta waterfront; hosting great parties, it’s great for dancing and drinking. Also, a plethora of bars can be found at the main city promenade, locally known as Riva, which is a great place for slow walks among the rows of palm trees with the incredible view of turquoise Adriatic Sea.

Events

The city is especially vibrant and lively during the summer, and various events (exhibitions, concerts, plays) are held every day. The most well-known are the Mediterranean Film Festival (held in June), showcasing regional films at several local venues and the Split Summer Festival, consisting of open-air theater and various dance and music performances. Some parts of the program are even held in the Diocletian’s Palace.

Diocletian palaceThe Palace is also the location of the annual Festival of Flowers (usually held in May), where exhibitors display their flower arrangements based on a particular theme. Visually stunning, it’s a must-visit if you’re in the city at that time. If you’re interested in Roman culture, you’ll be happy to hear that there’s a whole festival dedicated to it. The Days of Diocletian are usually held in late August, and the entire area of the Palace becomes a living monument to the Romans, featuring their cuisine, lifestyle, clothing and customs. Entertaining and educational at the same time, the Days of Diocletian are especially popular with kids.

The 7th of May is a date very important for the people of Split: that’s when the celebration of Split’s patron saint, Saint Domnius (“Sveti Duje” in Croatian) takes place. It’s an important local holiday and a feast day, with a procession, food, music and a carnival.


Private Tour: Split Day Trip from Dubrovnik

If You Go:

♦ The Croatian currency is Kuna (1 Euro = 7.55 Kuna, 1 US Dollar = 6.7 Kuna)

♦ Split has an international airport  some 25 kilometers west of the city. There are lines from and to major European cities, especially in the summer. Airport buses or taxi transfers will take you from the airport to the city center. Notice: bare in mind that buses can be overcrowded during main tourist season (June to September)

♦ Split is connected to Zagreb, the Croatian capital, with the A1 motorway. The road infrastructure is generally good and the trip takes around three and a half hours if you’re traveling by car.

♦ A good deal of Croatians speaks English quite well (Italian and German are spoken as well) and will be glad to help if you need anything. Police are accustomed to dealing with tourists and you can approach them if you have a problem or a question.

♦ The country joined the European Union in 2013, meaning that travelers from EU countries can enter the country visa-free with a passport or a national identity card. Nationals of other countries that can enter Croatia without a visa include the United States, Brazil, Japan, Australia, Argentina, Turkey, Canada and Chile.  Visitors from other countries may require a Visa to enter Croatia.

♦ If you decide to visit Split, you should also check the weather forecast at Croatia’s meteorological and hydrological service as well as Tourist Board of Split for more useful information.

 

About the author:
Goky Brkic is a passionate traveler and enthusiastic writer on topics that cover travels and exploration of new interesting places, cuisines and cultures around the world. He’s especially familiar with the region of Balkans and also enjoys wandering through coastal cities of the Mediterranean.

Photo credits:
Diocletians mausoleum, Split by Beyond silence / Public domain
Cathedral of Saint Domnius by by Beyond silence / Public domain
Split Gallery of Fine Arts by JoJan / CC BY
Dalmatinski Prsut by Haydn Blackey from Cardiff, Wales / CC BY-SA
Split city by DIREKTOR / Public domain
Diocletian palace by neufal54 from Pixabay

Tagged With: Croatia travel, Split attractions Filed Under: Europe Travel

Ethnic Eats In Europe

Austrian food truck

by Larry Zaletel

A people’s culture is defined not only by their traditions and values but also by their food and drink. Food brings people together especially when they gather around the dinner table.

Traveling across the globe, there is a variety of good food from various different nationalities and sampling food of different countries can be very rewarding. Although the food may be prepared differently in Europe, have an open mind and enjoy new flavors and sample the scrumptious delicacies.

Austria

Wels, Austria food marketSome of my personal favorite ethnic eats are in Austria. In Wels a small town in the Northwestern section of the country there is a local market which is very similar to the Westside Market in Cleveland, Ohio. A new building was recently constructed to house the vendors. On the outside of the market vendors sell various fresh fruits and vegetables etc. Nothing there is prepackaged. Inside the building the vendors provide various types of fresh food including meat, poultry, eggs, cheese and even schnapps (whiskey). My favorite vendor has barbecue roast chicken on a spit and as of late a new item lightly breaded chicken wings which go well with a stein (a traditional German beer tankard) of beer. Priced by the kilogram (2.2 pounds) US $3.00-$5.00.

Not too far from Wels is the small village of Marchtrenk, Austria. On Saturday morning, market day in the square, a white Mercedes truck (long before food trucks became popular in the United States) provides barbeque chicken to the many people lined up waiting to order. The truck is a mobile rotisserie converted to hold two rows of rotisserie chicken gently rotating. Each bank holds five rotisserie spits of chicken. Priced by the kilogram US $5:00.

Croatia

Deep fried chicken wingsThere are other taste treats to learn about and experience. Crossing from Slovenia into Croatia passing through village after village the signs for roast pork (svinjina) and lamb (jagnjetina grilled lamb both roasted on spit) began to appear. The local Gostionas (Restaurants, Bars) were preparing their grills for roasting. As luck would have it, we always seemed to miss many of these establishments. It might have been sheer luck and or just bad timing. We were either too early or too late for lunch or there was not a Gostiona located in the area where we were.

However luck was on our side one morning just a little before noon as we headed toward Zagreb our way to Slovenia. At the outskirts of a small village we came to an intersection in the road. I stopped to determine which direction to proceed as there were no road signs. My wife said, “Look to your left.” I glanced to the left and there on the spit were two suckling pigs roasting to perfection. I looked at my wife and said, “Lunch time.” The A-Frame sign in front of the Gostiona listed Odojak (suckling pig in Croatian).

Finally the timing was right. We sat outside under a covered porch after purchasing a kilogram of roast pork which included salad, bread and beer. Everything was tasty. My wife sampled the pork and I began to enjoy the additional treat of the lightly tanned hard crunchy pork skin that brought back a lot of fond memories. We washed everything down with Ozujsko beer and I believe that the beer in Europe is delicious whether you enjoy it in Austria, Slovenia, Croatia or Germany. It doesn’t matter it all tastes good. They have been brewing beer for 300-400 years and they have got it together US $15:00.

lamb on a spit in CroatiaHaving been in the former Yugoslavia a few times we learned over the years on what to look for when it comes to roast pork and lamb. Normally vendors and restaurateurs post signs advertising their wares along the road. Driving through Split on the Jadranska Magistrala along the coast toward Dubrovnik about lunch time we just could not find an establishment that had roast lamb or pork. Either we missed the signs or there just weren’t any. Finally we stopped at a local restaurant and we were given directions on where to find janjetina. Down the road and up the side of a sparsely covered mountain, we traveled higher and higher on the narrow pebbled road turning this way and that as the road curved back and forth along the side of the mountain, my cousin sitting in the back seat hanging firmly on to the hand strap fixed to the car roof. We drove on and on for over an hour. Finally we found it. The war had taken its toll. It was a bombed out building and on the side of the building a faded wooden sign advertised jagnjetina. My cousin started laughing hysterically!!! Someone was having a good laugh on us. Consequently we did not have roast pork or jagnjetina this day.

Bosnia & Herzegovina (BIH)

pizzaria in BosniaOn another occasion we were traveling by bus from Sarajevo to Mostar we stopped in the town of Jablanica to view the local historical sights. We learned from the locals just on the outskirts about one kilometer south of Jablanica was the restaurant Zdrava Voda (Health Water). There on six roasting spits was lamb grilling on an open fire continuously throughout the day enough to quell the hunger for both the tourist traveling between Sarajevo and Mostar and the local population. The price was US $15.00 which included potatoes, salad, and bread. Jablanica is known for this mouth watering delicacy and that there are over 8 restaurants in the vicinity that serve it. www.zdravavoda.co.ba

We learned from a local butcher in Medjugorje that the Restaurant Udovice located in Sretnice, 88203 Krusevo has Roast Lamb. It is located about 7-10 kilometers from Medjugorje and about 9 kilometers from Mostar. www.udovice.ba. The restaurant has two barbeque pits with seven spits for roasting Janjetina outside in the front of the establishment. Price US $15.00 which included potatoes, salad, and bread.

lamb on a spit, BosniaIn Sarajevo the restaurant Cevabdzinica Zeljo, on street Kundurdziluk 18, in the Bascarsija seems to be the favorite place for locals to enjoy a “healthy” meal of cevapcici with onions, sour cream and yogurt. Cevapcici is beef minced meat in a roll served with pita bread and priced under US $7.00. Other versions of this delicacy are made with ground lamb, veal, and pork.

Pizza is almost as much of a staple in the former Yugoslavia as it is in the United States. I noticed how popular it was when first visiting Slovenia. I was surprised that pizza appeared to be more readily available than local food.

Pizza is not made the same way as in the United States. The crust is somewhat thinner and the toppings and combinations are different although very tasty. Seafood including squid, shrimp is used and also sweet corn. Sausage is very popular and there are many different varieties. Each country has its own types of sausage therefore the assortment of tastes are endless. One of our favorites in Sarajevo was the restaurant café Pizzeria Oscar that provides pizza and spaghetti, price US $15.00-$25.00.


Sarajevo Cultural Walking Tour with Local Food Tasting

If You Go:

How to get there

There are no direct flights from the United States to Austria, Croatia, and Bosnia & Hercegovina. However air travelers can go to Frankfurt, Munich, Paris, or London for connecting airlines. Driving through Croatia from Rijeka toward Dubrovnik and points south is about a 3-4 hour drive. At present the new autobahn completed in 2005 ends at Ravca south of Split. Construction is ongoing and continuation of the highway to southernmost Dalmatia and Dubrovnik is scheduled to be complete sometime in the near future.

Where to stay

A Gostilna (Gasthaus in German) is a modest country inn serving home cooked meals. There is no hard and fast rule but many gostilna’s have sleeping arrangements and usually include breakfast in the morning. If there is a picture of a bed hanging out in front of the establishment then they have sleeping accommodations.

Besides hotels and Gostilna’s there are many bed & breakfast (sobes) that are common in Europe. There are signs along the roadsides advertising them. The local tourist bureaus usually have list of sobes with prices and further information. They are highly recommended as a delightful way to meet the people and make new friends. We have been very fortunate to find some very charming sobes in our travels. We are thus able to meet the people, get acquainted with those from other cultures and learn about them and their way of life.

Usually the price can be negotiated. Prices average about $45-$80 per night and they are much cheaper than hotels and normally include breakfast. We have stayed in sobes in Germany, Austria, Slovenia and Croatia and have revisited them on several occasions.

The Gostilna Pri Belokranjcu, Kandijska cesta 63, 8000 Novo Mesto, Slovenia is situated almost in the center of town across the street from the Renault factory and is close to two shopping malls. This family bed and breakfast has 28 rooms with double beds. The owners Branko and Mojca Vrbetic offers daily menus with home made bread and a local wine called Cvicek. Refrigerators and laundry services for extended guests are available. Slovenian, Serbian/Croatian, Russian, German, Italian and English are spoken. Tel 386 7 30 28 444, Price $60-$80 per night. Very good home cooked food. www.pribelokranjcu-vp.si

Boutique 36, price 67 Euro, . 71000 Sarajevo, Bosnia-Hercegovina, Safvet bega Basagica 36, www.hb36.ba


Zagreb Food & Wine Journey: Farmer’s market – Brunch – Boutique winery

Where to eat

Gostilna and Restaurant Ansenik, 4275 Begunje, Slovenia, Telephone 386 4 530 70 30, www.avsenik.com. This is a genteel family establishment that includes very good homemade Slovenian food, international cuisine, venison, fish and other seafood dishes. Additionally they offer both vegetarian and grilled dishes. Prices are moderate. There is a children’s playground, conference area, and dance-floor. There is music on Wednesdays and Fridays evenings in the multi purpose hall which seats 220 persons. Hours: Daily 10:00 AM-11:00 PM, Sunday: 10:00AM-9 PM, Monday: Closed.

Pizzeria & Spaghettarija Don Bobi, Kandijska Cesta 14, 8000 Novo Mesto, Slovenia. Tel 386 7 338 24 00, email don.bobi@siol.net. Extensive menu and moderately priced $8-$18. Complete with indoor and outdoor dining. This is one of our favorites. Very good pasta and pizza.

Gostilna Ancka, Delavska 18, 4208 Sencur, Slovenia is about a five minute ride from the Joze Pucnik Airport. Tel 386 4 251 52 00. They offer homemade Slovenian dishes, venison, freshwater fish, and vegetarian dishes. It is complete with indoor and outdoor dining that includes a huge terrace. It is a very nicely decorated restaurant with a friendly staff with over 35 years of experience. The food is freshly prepared and their style of ribs is very good. Prices are moderate.

Barhana, Dulagina Cikma 8, www.barhana.ba, in the Bascarsija, Sarajevo, Bosnia-Hercegovina. We visited it on a cold drizzly night and its good wholesome food of lamb Goulash and the local drink of Rakija (plum brandy) which took the chill out of our bones. Prices are moderate. 033 447 727.

Konoba Mediterano is located across from the Cathedral, Dubrovnik, Croatia. Types of food include risotto, pasta, seafood, and other Croatian favorites. Prices, moderate plus.

 

About the author:
Larry is a freelance travel writer, an avid and dedicated traveler, and recurring visitor to Europe, the Caribbean and Hawaii. He writes about the various people that he has met and places that he has visited during my travels. Larry is a regular contributor to Travel Thru History.

All photographs by Larry Zaletel:
Whole Chickens sold from a Truck, Marchtrenk, Austria
Chicken Stand at the market in Marchtrenk, Austria
Chicken Wings Marchtrenk, Austria
Lamb on a Spit, Pag, Croatia
Pizzeria Oscar in Sarajevo, Bosnia
Lamb on a Spit, Jablanica, Bosnia

Tagged With: Austria travel, Bosnia travel, Croatia travel Filed Under: Europe Travel

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