by Sonja Slijepcevic
The motto of Rijeka’s Great Carnival “Die, but never give up” expresses the very essence and soul of the carnival. As someone once said, despite the long history, playful and satirical spirit of the carnival, it doesn’t show any slowing down, in fact it is growing in its popularity from season to season.
Today we know that the carnival existed in some form from before the 15th century. A document was found which dates back to 1449 and provides evidence that the City Council prohibited the covering the face with a mask during the carnival celebrations. The reason behind this decision was to prevent the open criticism and satirical expression of opinion towards the government and its officers.
In the present time, we mostly consider the carnival big fun for the whole family, with a lot of music, dancing with masks, songs, laughter and the mandatory special donuts (krafne) as one of the carnival symbols.
“Zvoncari” – bellmen (bell-ringers) from this region were included in the program of the Winter Olympics in Sarajevo in 1980 and started to boost the interest for the historic and cultural background of this tradition.
In 1982 the Rijeka Carnival was once again revived under the Rijeka’s Tourist Alliance and organized a “walk” with masks to bring something new into the city’s touristic offer. This was a spark which ignited a bigger fire for the region’s attractions and events that every year brings thousands of new visitors to enjoy this great event.
Nowadays, the Carnival also puts a new light on the traditional and cultural value of the event which shows the rich history of the area to the world.
The city of Rijeka is also accepted as a full member of the Federation of European Carnival Cities and the carnival was added to the list of the 500 most important events in Europe. In 2009, the Rijeka Tourist Board won the “Golden Tourist Heart” award, as the organizer of the best tourism event in south-eastern Europe.
Rijeka carnival is a unique mix of European urban carnival and mythological rural custom and tradition.
The carnival, actually, has its roots in pre-Christian, pagan beliefs that wearing masks, dancing and making noise, would scare off the bad spirits and welcome the spring and new life. This custom can’t be imagined without bells and horns. The bells noise would scare away any evil powers, while the horns were a symbol of fertility. Later, the burning of the “pust” (puppet) which symbolized everything bad in the past year, had been included in the rituals.
Zvoncari -bellmen or bell-ringers are well-known participants in the carnivals and processions in rural areas surrounding Rijeka. The groups of bell-ringers usually wear sheep skins (fur), large head masks with horns and big bells around their waist. Local people say that you have to be born into the “family” of Zvoncar-bellmen, you can’t just become a Zvoncar. This means that you must be a strong, tall man capable to “fight” and protect your home.
One group of regular bellmen participants in the Rijeka carnival parade is a group of Grobnik Dondolasi. The term “dondolas” has its origin in a word “dondolo” which means bell. The legend says that dondolasi have their origin from shepherds. The shepherds would wear frightening masks and sheep’s fur to scare away wild animals and bad spirits away from their livestock.
Today Dondolasi are the safe-keepers of old traditions and custom. They usually start their walks (procession) through the villages on the first Saturday in January.
At the carnival, every time when the procession stops, the bell ringers form a circle which is a defense formation in the open space. In the middle of the circle their flag is held high to symbolize the value of people, family, their country and bravery. The bell- ringers then rise their arms to show their determination to defend their values.
The Halubje bell-ringers from the nearby area also found their place on the UNESCO’s world list of non-material cultural heritage.
This year the Rijeka carnival celebration started on January 17th and the international closing parade as a crown of the celebration, will take place on March 3rd. The kids’ parade with masks took place on February 16 on a beautiful sunny Saturday. Thousands of kids, parents and spectators enjoyed music, colourful masks and children’s smiling faces.
For months, many kindergartens and schools have been preparing original masks to represent their cities or municipalities. This year we were able to see the little witches in red, smart little owls or busy bees, “dangerous”- looking wild animals from Africa or cute blue smurfs with white hats. One kindergarten group proudly dressed up as cabbage and beans, reminding everyone of the healthy organically grown local food.
Everyone has fun including the numerous tourists who often come from nearby countries to escape the cold winter days and surrender themselves to the warm sunny Mediterranean climate in Rijeka or the islands of Krk, Cres and Mali Losinj. Carnival and its parades add to the special experience of their stay.
The city of Rijeka opens its doors during this fun joyful time to tourists and locals alike with numerous concerts, exhibitions, happenings for all generations, as well as with a plethora of culinary specialities in restaurants, hotels and cafes. The city is alive with colours, imagination and as organizers say: “Come and be what you wish”!!!
If You Go:
- Carnival usually starts in January, but the best time to join is during the February, when the major festival parades take place
- The best way to get to Rijeka is to land at the Zagreb international airport and from there you have about 1.5- hour drive to Rijeka. Distance between Zagreb and Rijeka is around 150 km.
- From Zagreb you may take regular coach bus a few times a day to Rijeka. The travel is about 2.5 hours. Bus is solid and safe transportation.
- The highway Zagreb Rijeka is a toll route.
- Another option is to fly to Pula (Istria Peninsula) and from Pula you have a bus to Rijeka. Rijeka-Pula distance is approx. 100km. By bus it’s about a two hour-drive, several buses daily.
- Additional information about Rijeka Carnival – accommodations (hotels, B&B’s, apartment rentals), car rental etc. is available on internet.
- English, German and Italian languages are widely used at the restaurants, hotels, tourist offices and agencies
7- or 9-Night Best of Croatia Tour: Zagreb, Split, Hvar, Korcula and Dubrovnik
Photo credits:
Rijeka carnival banner on parade – from Marina botel
Masks-symbols of carnivals- photo by Sonja Slijepcevic
Grobnik Dondolasi- photo by Rabko-CC BY-SA 3.0 free to share
Zejanski i Halubajski zvoncari – photo by: Roberta F.-CC BY-SA 3.0.-free to share
Little witches in red- photo by Sonja Slijepcevic
Sonja Slijepcevic is a freelance travel writer and photographer, a member of the International Travel Writers and Photographers Alliance (ITWPA), who for years has been combining her love of travel, passion for photography and professional career in the project management field. She likes meeting people from different cultures and backgrounds, enjoys history and art, and likes to write about these experiences.
Some of her photography and articles have been published in different Canadian magazines and newspapers such as www.travelthruhistory.com or www.wanderousaffair.com.
She was born in the capital city of Croatia, Zagreb and has been living in Canada for 26 years.
LEADERSHIP STRIFE
The cathedral of St James is by far the most impressive achievement in the city and it defies comparison due to its excellent construction. This three-nave Gothic Renaissance is the brainchild of Juraj Dalamanatic and was built during a period of Turkish attacks. What you see today actually took more than a century to build. Interestingly, there are 72 stone heads around the cathedral which represent locals who did not care to give a hand in the construction of the cathedral. I read a lot about this cathedral before visiting it and my friends told me that I should definitely go and check this building out when I visited Sibenik so of course I did. It is a massive building that towers over you but every piece of it contains a different kind of beauty that you just cannot stop looking at. I spent a couple of hours there just enjoying the view and learning a bit about this marvelous building, completely mesmerized.
The origins of the city can be traced all the way to the Romans. The Roman Emperor Diocletian, who lived in the 4th century AD, wanted to build himself a retirement mansion. He liked the area of today’s Split for its natural beauties and the warm Adriatic Sea, so he had it built there. In the centuries that followed, the city of Split grew around it, even after the Romans were long gone. The Palace and its surroundings eventually become the historical city core of Split (or Split Old Town), and nowadays the remains of the Diocletian’s Palace are among the best preserved remains of a Roman palace in the world. It was included in the register of the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage in 1979, and is even featured on Croatian banknotes. Built in an irregular rectangle, it was a combination of a luxurious villa and a military camp. Its walls and the center court, the Peristyle, now housing various vendors and souvenir shops, can be explored freely by tourists. However, a tour through its cellar includes a 5 Euro entrance fee.
A city of such interesting history has several museums and galleries in which parts of that history are exhibited. For instance, the Gallery of Fine Arts contains works spanning through six centuries, thus providing an overview of artistic movements in Split and Croatia. Founded in 1931, it houses one of the greatest exhibitions of paintings and sculpture by major Croatian artists, but dedicating space to contemporary art as well.
The cuisine of Split and the surrounding area is heavily based on seafood; fish, clams, oysters are usually boiled or grilled and served with vegetables or potato. Local delicacies include grilled sardines, the octopus salad, or the special kind of dry ham called “prsut”. Served with local wine, the food is usually not spicy, but some restaurants, drawing influences from other Mediterranean countries, started adding exotic spices to traditional Dalmatian dishes, giving them a new spin. For classic local delicacies search for a “konoba” sign, denoting a family-owned tavern specialized in authentic dishes. Of course, if you’re not a lover of seafood, there are plenty of fast food joints in every part of the city.
During the summer tourist season the local nightlife flourishes, especially along the Bacvice beachside, featuring several late-opening clubs and beach bars. But the city is big and diverse enough for anyone, with different clubs playing vastly different music. Electronic music lovers should proceed to the minimally decorated Quasimodo, Split’s top venue for DJ nights, or the Jungla (Hula Hula), playing house and techno music. Rock lovers should visit the Kocka or Judino Drvo, where local bands often perform. O’ Hara Music Club is popular among tourists, due to its attractive location at the Zenta waterfront; hosting great parties, it’s great for dancing and drinking. Also, a plethora of bars can be found at the main city promenade, locally known as Riva, which is a great place for slow walks among the rows of palm trees with the incredible view of turquoise Adriatic Sea.
The Palace is also the location of the annual Festival of Flowers (usually held in May), where exhibitors display their flower arrangements based on a particular theme. Visually stunning, it’s a must-visit if you’re in the city at that time. If you’re interested in Roman culture, you’ll be happy to hear that there’s a whole festival dedicated to it. The Days of Diocletian are usually held in late August, and the entire area of the Palace becomes a living monument to the Romans, featuring their cuisine, lifestyle, clothing and customs. Entertaining and educational at the same time, the Days of Diocletian are especially popular with kids.
Photo credits:
Some of my personal favorite ethnic eats are in Austria. In Wels a small town in the Northwestern section of the country there is a local market which is very similar to the Westside Market in Cleveland, Ohio. A new building was recently constructed to house the vendors. On the outside of the market vendors sell various fresh fruits and vegetables etc. Nothing there is prepackaged. Inside the building the vendors provide various types of fresh food including meat, poultry, eggs, cheese and even schnapps (whiskey). My favorite vendor has barbecue roast chicken on a spit and as of late a new item lightly breaded chicken wings which go well with a stein (a traditional German beer tankard) of beer. Priced by the kilogram (2.2 pounds) US $3.00-$5.00.
There are other taste treats to learn about and experience. Crossing from Slovenia into Croatia passing through village after village the signs for roast pork (svinjina) and lamb (jagnjetina grilled lamb both roasted on spit) began to appear. The local Gostionas (Restaurants, Bars) were preparing their grills for roasting. As luck would have it, we always seemed to miss many of these establishments. It might have been sheer luck and or just bad timing. We were either too early or too late for lunch or there was not a Gostiona located in the area where we were.
Having been in the former Yugoslavia a few times we learned over the years on what to look for when it comes to roast pork and lamb. Normally vendors and restaurateurs post signs advertising their wares along the road. Driving through Split on the Jadranska Magistrala along the coast toward Dubrovnik about lunch time we just could not find an establishment that had roast lamb or pork. Either we missed the signs or there just weren’t any. Finally we stopped at a local restaurant and we were given directions on where to find janjetina. Down the road and up the side of a sparsely covered mountain, we traveled higher and higher on the narrow pebbled road turning this way and that as the road curved back and forth along the side of the mountain, my cousin sitting in the back seat hanging firmly on to the hand strap fixed to the car roof. We drove on and on for over an hour. Finally we found it. The war had taken its toll. It was a bombed out building and on the side of the building a faded wooden sign advertised jagnjetina. My cousin started laughing hysterically!!! Someone was having a good laugh on us. Consequently we did not have roast pork or jagnjetina this day.
On another occasion we were traveling by bus from Sarajevo to Mostar we stopped in the town of Jablanica to view the local historical sights. We learned from the locals just on the outskirts about one kilometer south of Jablanica was the restaurant Zdrava Voda (Health Water). There on six roasting spits was lamb grilling on an open fire continuously throughout the day enough to quell the hunger for both the tourist traveling between Sarajevo and Mostar and the local population. The price was US $15.00 which included potatoes, salad, and bread. Jablanica is known for this mouth watering delicacy and that there are over 8 restaurants in the vicinity that serve it. www.zdravavoda.co.ba
In Sarajevo the restaurant Cevabdzinica Zeljo, on street Kundurdziluk 18, in the Bascarsija seems to be the favorite place for locals to enjoy a “healthy” meal of cevapcici with onions, sour cream and yogurt. Cevapcici is beef minced meat in a roll served with pita bread and priced under US $7.00. Other versions of this delicacy are made with ground lamb, veal, and pork.
Vis was christened Issa by 4th century BC Greek settlers. The town site and well-protected harbor of Vis, off the Croatian coast, was once the most powerful Greek colony in the Adriatic Sea, a city state with its own rulers and currency.
Our guide was Jurica Zitko, a community leader and paragliding instructor. Dimar, our driver, worked for the San Georgio Hotel where we were staying and just happened to have a Land Rover. Perfect!
Today, the simple sign, “Tito’s Cave”, at the entrance, announces his former presence. About two hundred steps bring you to Tito’s meeting rooms; another hundred will take you to his living quarters. . Now, all we saw of past military occupation were a few strands of barbed wire, bent over by winds and neglect.
No signs announced the remains of Fort St. George built by the British in 1813 to guard the harbor. After vanquishing Napoleon in 1815, they abandoned the Fort to the elements. Parts of it have crumbled, but most of it, including walls and cannons are still intact. We were the only people there. It seems commercialization has not yet taken hold.
The inland villages, are very tiny—stone houses with red tile roofs surrounded by vineyards, olive trees and cattle. The vines wind around the hillside and over stone walls. It is totally unspoiled. Life revolves around wine, olive harvests, fishing and local festivals. Wild herbs, such as thyme, rosemary and lavender are hardy perennials.
Our headquarters, the San Giorgio Hotel in Kut, was a twenty-minute walk from Vis Town. It was July. Yachts pulled up and its occupants dined al fresco on the decks. Tourists can have their pick… sailing, snorkeling, and swimming. Not to mention exploring nearby coves and caves. (Sunken ships from the 1866 War are a great draw, also, subs and an airplane or two) Incredibly the water is so blue, you can almost see to the bottom. All the beaches are rocky, but no one seems to mind.
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