mexico travel | Travel Thru History

Mexico: In the Footsteps of Hernán Cortés and the Three Faces of Veracruz

by Troy Herrick

Ambition, wealth, power, status, a thirst for adventure and even a little luck – dreams are made of these; and dreams are what propelled eleven Spanish galleons along the southeastern coast of Mexico in the spring of 1519 in search of military intel. The conquistadors on board were in need of intel because they wanted to establish a Spanish colony in Central Mexico.

By a stroke of luck, Hernán Cortés, the leader of the expedition, rescued a shipwrecked Spanish priest who had learned the Mayan language after having lived among them as a slave for eight years. His greatest prize however was receiving a tribute that included a young female slave who spoke both Mayan and Nahuatl, the language of the Aztecs. By means of three-way translation Cortés learned about Moctezuma II and the rich and powerful Aztec Empire in Central Mexico. The long road to the Spanish conquest of Mexico had begun.

San Juan de Ulua and Chalchihuecan in Present Day Veracruz

Cortés set his sights on meeting Moctezuma. But how would he achieve this? He started by making a lasting impression on Moctezuma’s ambassadors whom he met on the Island of San Juan de Ulua in the harbor of what is now present-day Veracruz. The brash Cortés demonstrated the power of his cannons, rifles and horses to the ambassadors and then suggested that they may wish to inform Moctezuma of his impending arrival in their capital of Tenochtitlan (present-day Mexico City).

Shortly after, Cortés and his men crossed over to the mainland at Chalchihuecan, just opposite the island, in order to establish a beachhead. After setting up camp on the malaria-infested dunes, a party of men was dispatched northwards along the coast in search of a safe harbor for their ships.

Walking along the Malecon opposite the island, you find nothing that hints at the significance Chalchihuecan in the conquest of Mexico. This is likely because present-day Mexicans are not proud of this period in their history.

While at this new camp, Cortés first made contact with the local indigenous people known as the Totonacs, some of whom spoke Nahautl, and was invited to visit their capital to the north at Cempoala. You also have a standing invitation to visit Cempoala and you can plan your visit over a glass of Lechero Grande coffee at the Gran Café de la Parroquia. When you are refreshed, follow in the footsteps of Hernán Cortés.

Cempoala

As Cortés and his entourage approached Cempoala, he sent riders on ahead. Upon their return, they reported that everything was covered in silver. Imagine Cortés’ disappointment when he arrived and found that the “silver” was only the sun reflecting off the white plaster surfaces on all the structures inside the city.

Passing through the defensive walls surrounding the site, you find very little of that “silver” remaining today as the plaster has deteriorated over time. What you see instead are structures assembled from smooth river stones and limestone mortar, including the peripheral wall encircling the site.

The six-tiered Temple of the Sun (Great Pyramid) is the largest structure at Cempoala. At the base there is a round structure that may have served as an altar or a fire pit. This circle has a 7 foot external diameter and a 10 inch depth. A similar pit is also visible about half way up to the summit. Choose one of the two balustrade staircases and climb the 17 stairs to the top for a panoramic view of the site. You also find that part of the right staircase has been cut away to reveal an earlier structure underneath as evidenced by 7 stairs that are not constructed from river stone like the outer structure.

To the right of the Great Pyramid you find the Temple of Quetzalcoatl, the god of wind. This 5-tiered structure is unusual in that it consists of two sections; the front section is a rectangular platform while the back section is a circular platform representing the serpentine nature of this god. A model in the site museum shows that a circular sanctuary representing a coiled snake once stood on top of the circular platform. After climbing the 18 steps to the top you find that nothing remains of the sanctuary.

Three stone rings [TOP PHOTO] are situated at the opposite end of the site. The largest has an internal diameter of roughly 46 feet and the smallest about 4.5 feet. The most likely explanation for these structures is that they were used in tandem for calibrating astronomical cycles like the movements of the sun, moon and the seasonal changes over the course of a year. Each ring features a number of regularly spaced stepped pillars which could certainly have been used for such measurements. The largest ring has 40 pillars while the middle and smallest rings have 28 and 13 pillars respectively.

During his visit to Cempoala, Cortés allied himself with the Totonac chief. He also pledged to help free them from their 50 year subjugation by the Aztecs and their burdensome annual tribute to the Emperor.

At this time the soldiers sent out to find a better harbor had returned with important news. They had discovered another Totonac town that appeared to be a fortified port. Its name was Quiahuiztlan.

Quiahuiztlan

Arriving in Quiahuiztlan (pronounced “key-ah-wheez-tlahn”) you may feel that you are in Machu Picchu as this site is situated on a terraced slope adjoining a jagged mountain named Peñon de Bernal. With the aid of defensive walls, the residents must have felt relatively safe from any threats from below. These walls had proven to be ineffective as this city had also been subjugated by the Aztecs; now the Spanish were climbing the steep hill to make first contact.

Quiahuiztlan is best known as a cemetery for the nobility of Cempoala. Unique in all of Mexico, this site has over 70 miniature mausoleum-style tombs scattered around three cemetery levels. Each mausoleum is between 2 to 3 feet high with 3 or 4 miniature stairs leading up a “crypt” that only a GI Joe or Barbie doll could enter. We didn’t notice any evidence that these tombs had ever been violated so presumably the original occupants are still interred here.

Not all tombs were created equal. Some are in fact full size and you are able to climb on them. Tomb 1 has 8 ballustrade stairs leading up to a platform on which you find the remnants of 6 square pillars. Perhaps this was once a mausoleum that a priest might enter in order to leave a sacrifice.

Nearby is the 4-tiered Pyramid 1 which also appears to be associated with a tomb. Around the back of this structure, you find a platform with a rectangular hole that could have accommodated a corpse at one time. There was no one around, living or dead, who could confirm this however.

The living also resided at Quiahuiztlan as evidenced by the large rectangular structure with 24 inch thick stone foundation walls known as Building 3 and the 190 foot long ballcourt. I couldn’t help but wonder how long the game might have been delayed if the ball was accidently knocked outside the ballcourt and down the mountainside.

By the time Cortés had concluded his visit to Quiahuiztlan he had allied himself with a number of other Totonac chiefs who provided him with an army of at least 8000 warriors. He now prepared to march on Tenochtitlan to meet Moctezuma, but not before he left a garrison of his own men at what is now known as Punta Villa Rica on the beach below Quiahuiztlan.

Punta Villa Rica de la Veracruz – the First Veracruz

The sleepy fishing village of Punta Villa Rica has the distinction of being the site of the first permanent Spanish settlement in Mexico and the site of the first Veracruz. Cortés destroyed his ships on the beach here to prevent any of his men from deserting. He then utilized the wood from the ships and local stone to construct a fortress and a small church close to the beach. Only the stone foundations remain today. Visitors now travel to Punta Villa Rica for the sun, sand and beer; otherwise they appear to be oblivious to the history of this village.

Cortés abandoned Villa Rica in 1523, after the conquest of Mexico, to re-establish Veracruz at what is now known as La Antigua. This was necessitated because of the high winds that appear over the Gulf of Mexico during the wintertime. These winds were hazardous to shipping and therefore a safer port was required.

La Antigua – the Second Veracruz

Cortés and his men had initially passed through the vicinity of present-day La Antigua on their way from Chalchihuecan to Cempoala. When it came time to move Veracruz to a second location in 1523, they remembered the deep river that they had to cross and how it might be useful for sheltering their ships inland away from the gulf.

Arriving at La Antigua, make your way to the Casa de Cortés, a 26 room structure with a courtyard. It was built from orange-brown ballast bricks, coral and river stones taken from the nearby Antigua River. You will know you are there when you see Amate trees insidiously engulfing the walls and doorways of this “modest” home like some creature out of a horror movie. You can still find traces of how this structure may have looked in the 16th century when you see the tile flooring and weathered plaster in some of the rooms. A rusty old 12-pound cannon lies outside to provide that warm inviting atmosphere that comes with every home, because you just never know who might drop by for a visit like pirates, indigenous raiding parties or a mother-in-law.

Walk towards the river and you find the massively large and gnarled tree known as the Ceiba de la Noche Feliz. One root running along the ground is over 65 feet long and at least 3 feet in diameter. Cortés and his men were said to tie their boats to this tree. When you see how far this tree is from the river, they either used very long ropes or the river has since changed its course and moved further away.

A short walk away is the Ermita del Rosario, the oldest chapel on the mainland of the Americas. The white plaster façade has 3 bells hanging over the front door. Inside you find a vaulted nave with a rather plain looking altar and brown park bench-like pews. Do not confuse this chapel with another church known as the Iglesia de Cristo de Buen Viaje which you must pass before arriving at the Ermita del Rosario. You can distinguish the two because the Ermita does not have a red dome on its roof while the Iglesia does.

La Antigua was the main port of entry into New Spain for almost 80 years but it too was abandoned in 1599 due to frequent flooding. Galleons were lifted up with the rising water and sometimes left stranded on shore. What did the Spanish do then? In 1600 they returned to where it all began and settled at Chalchihuecan, the third and final Veracruz, opposite the then relatively new Fuerte (fort) de San Juan de Ulua, but that is a different story.

If You Go:

To visit the Malecon in present-day Veracruz, walk along the harbor on San Miguel Aleman Valdes on Insurgentes.

The Gran Café de la Parroquia is located on the Malecon, across from the Mercado de Artesanias on San Miguel Aleman Valdes on Insurgentes. A glass of Lechero Grande Coffee cost 40 pesos at the time of our visit. Cempoala (sometimes spelled Zempoala) is 49 km north of Veracruz. Admission to the archeological zone is 50 pesos.

Punta Villa Rica de la Veracruz is 80 km north of present-day Veracruz on Highway 180. Look for the sign labeled Villa Rica Playa on your right to enter the village. There are no signs to direct visitors to the stone foundations. The locals may be able to provide you with directions to the ruins but some Spanish will be required as English is not widely spoken in this area.

The road to Quiahuiztlan is directly opposite to that of Punta Villa Rica. Turn to the left and drive 4 km uphill. Admission is 40 pesos.

La Antigua is 18 km north of present-day Veracruz. All sites here are free to visit. The Casa de Cortés is located at Avenida Independencia at Calle Ruiz Cortés. Admission is free. The Ceiba tree and the Ermita del Rosario are approximately a half block away in opposite directions from the Casa de Cortés.

In order to visit all of these sites, you will require either a rental car or a taxi for the day. Taxis are inexpensive and you should negotiate a price. Also note that a car or taxi from Veracruz must pass through a tollgate just south of La Antigua so factor this cost into the price as well if you drive or hire a taxi.

About the author:
Troy Herrick, a freelance travel writer, has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. His articles have appeared in Live Life Travel, International Living, Offbeat Travel and Travels Thru History Magazines.

Photographs:

Diane Gagnon, a freelance photographer, has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. Her photographs have accompanied Troy Herrick’s articles in Live Life Travel, Offbeat Travel and Travels Thru History Magazines.

Caribbean: Discovering Strategic Spanish Fortresses in the New World

by Troy Herrick

In the 17th century, gold, silver and other treasures flowed into Spain like water from its overseas empire. Other European powers like Britain and Holland took careful notice of this wealth and commissioned privateers to “occasionally interrupt” the stream of treasure-laden galleons. The stakes were high and Spain had to protect its interests from the real “Pirates of the Caribbean” like Sir Francis Drake, Sir John Hawkins and Laurenz de Graaf. Dutch pirate Piet Heyn was particularly successful in capturing 90 tons of gold and silver, which was worth far more than a king’s ransom. Spain moved to turn the Caribbean Sea into its own mare nostrum (“our sea”) by constructing fortresses at a number of strategic sites including Puerto Rico, Florida and Mexico. Spanish ships could anchor in safe harbors as they gradually made their way to and from Europe.

Puerto Rico, the first major island with fresh water, was the gateway to the new world. The north equatorial ocean current and the northeast trade winds carried ships from distant Europe, 4000 miles away, right to its doorstep.

St. Augustine, Florida was the last port of call for galleons crossing the Atlantic back to Spain. The Gulf Stream carried the treasure-laden ships up the east coast of Florida right past this site before turning towards Europe.

Veracruz, Mexico was the site of the Spanish “Fort Knox.” Almost all the gold and silver from the new world passed through this city before being loaded onto galleons bound for Spain.

The Castillo San Felipe Del Morro and the Castillo San Cristobal – San Juan, Puerto Rico

In 1493 Christopher Columbus was the first European to land on Puerto Rico and the city of San Juan was established in 1521. The Spanish quickly realized that the nation controlling this settlement could shelter its vessels in the harbor behind strong fortifications and send its warships out to control the new world trade routes. Fortification of the island began in 1539 with the Castillo San Felipe del Morro (El Morro) and the structure you find now was essentially complete by 1790, except for a lighthouse that was added in 1846.

As we approached El Morro from town, we found ourselves crossing a large open field. This esplanade allowed defenders to shoot at anyone foolish enough to attack the fort by land. At the Sally Port, we purchased our admission tickets from the park ranger “sentry” and found ourselves standing on the parade square known as the Plaza de Armas.

The periphery of the Plaza de Armas is lined with casemates which are vaulted rooms designed to disperse the weight of the structure above. Each casemate was originally designated for a specific use and now they house historical displays. The powder magazine houses a display of 10-12 inch diameter cannon balls and gunpowder casks. A bell over the entrance to one casemate marks the chapel; inside, hanging over the bare altar, you find a picture of the Virgin of the Navigators who watches over a harbor filled with old sailing vessels.

Descending the stairs to the lower level you find the casemates where soldiers lived and worked; these include barracks, kitchen and forge. After seeing these, visitors may be left with the impression that morale was very low in this Castillo. Life was rough and a soldier’s pay was not only small but also not guaranteed to be available either.

El Morro was designed to protect the harbor below from attack by sea. Unfortunately this fortress was not designed to protect the city. This weakness was exploited by the English in 1595 and 1598 and the Dutch in 1625 who all inflicted heavy damage to San Juan. Realizing their strategic error, the Spanish constructed the Castillo San Cristobal to protect San Juan, and El Morro, from a land-based attack.

The Castillo San Cristobal began as a small triangular structure in 1634 and evolved into the largest fortification in the new world by 1782. The strength of this fortress was put to the test when the British attacked in April 1797. They were repulsed by the defenders and it was easy to see why when you consider that the main battery alone had over 30 heavy guns trained on the attackers. A neatly assembled pile of cannon balls still remains on the battery deck, just in case.

As with El Morro, San Cristobal has a number of casemates around the periphery of the Plaza de Armas. One was the barracks and it contained two long, low-lying beds, each accommodating 9 to 10 soldiers. Every soldier was issued a gray-brown woolen blanket. At the far end of each bed is a drum. You also find an example of an ammo pouch and a blue field pack with shoulder straps. What you do not see are uniforms because in the 17th century Spanish soldiers were not issued with these by the military. Instead they wore red sashes or badges as a means of distinguishing themselves from the enemy.

One unusual feature about the Castillo San Cristobal is that the chapel is not housed inside a casemate. Rather it is outside, exposed to the elements. It is not clear why this was the case.

Both fortresses feature a number of sentry boxes (garitas). Each accommodated a single guard and allowed for a 180-degree view of the area. There is an open entrance on the side and a slit from which the sentry could fire his rifle while at the same time minimizing his own exposure to return fire. The most infamous garita, known as the Devil’s Sentry Box, was situated below the northern wall of San Cristobal, just above the water. Soldiers were afraid to be posted here in the dark of night because it was believed to be haunted. You can visit this garita but only during daylight hours.

With the two fortresses, San Juan had become the most heavily fortified settlement in the Caribbean. While both castillos were besieged, neither ever fell to the enemy. The only time the Spanish were displaced was in 1898 when Puerto Rico became a U.S. Territory after the Spanish-American War.

Visitors should also note that the Castillo San Felipe del Morro and the Castillo San Cristobal are not the only fortresses in the vicinity. El Morro had a smaller twin, the Fortin de San Juan de la Cruz (also known as El Cañuelo), on the opposite shore of the bay; it is still clearly visible in the distance. Combined, they provided crossfire across the bay in case of enemy attack.

San Cristobal’s smaller twin is the Fortin San Jeronimo which still “protects” the San Antonio Bridge linking the islet of Old San Juan to the main island. Curiously while we were on the islet, a fleet of taxis blockaded the bridge to protest the recent licensing of Uber in the city. There was no response from the Fortin San Jeronimo at that time.

Castillo de San Marcos – St. Augustine, Florida

In 1565 Conquistador Pedro Menendez de Aviles, accompanied by 600 soldiers and colonists arrived in Florida to establish a series of “presidios” (fortified towns) to defend treasure-laden ships en route back to Spain. Construction of the Castillo de San Marcos, the most northerly of these presidios, was essentially complete by 1695. The bastion design allowed defenders to mount cannons in such a way as to get a clear shot at the enemy from every possible angle.

Walking across the field just outside the entrance of the Castillo, we encountered eight “Spanish” soldiers dressed in 18th century uniforms and shouldering muskets. [TOP PHOTO] The commanding officer barked out orders in Spanish to commence a rifle firing drill. Shortly after, the artillery men fired a three pound mortar. Curiously an incoming motor boat suddenly changed direction at the same time. It was well out of range by the time this piece of artillery was reloaded.

Entering the castillo, we crossed a well-worn wooden drawbridge to the Sally Port and passed a sentry holding a rifle with fixed bayonet. We found ourselves standing on the Plaza de Armas, which was again surrounded by casemates. Two casemates featured different types of cannon shot – solid cannon balls, bar shot, chain shot, grape shot and the long-handled tools (approximately 8 feet in length) required to load, fire and clean the big guns.

Barracks were equipped with two 26 foot long raised wooden platforms lining the walls of the casemate. Each had a single light gray mattress on top, capable of accommodating six soldiers. A short run outside brought the soldiers to la necessaria, an 18th century latrine featuring six seats and no privacy. The “modern” flushing system required a bucket of water drawn from a nearby barrel.

One casemate functioned as a treasury room where military pay chests, valuables and important documents were kept; another was a chapel with a stone altar set against the back wall.

The Castillo de San Marcos was never taken by force but in 1763 the St. Augustine colony was ceded to Britain after the Seven Years War. Spain would later reclaim St. Augustine in 1784 under the Treaty of Paris after having assisted the Americans during their Revolutionary War. Eventually in 1821, Florida was traded to the United States to settle a debt.

Fuerte de San Juan de Ulua – Veracruz, Mexico

In 1518 Spanish conquistador Juan de Grijalva and 30 soldiers landed on a tiny island in the harbor of what is now Veracruz and named it San Juan de Ulua. The first fortifications were constructed in 1535 and then upgraded in 1600 after this site was appointed as an official repository for all treasures collected in the New World and the Philippines. After 172 years and several expansions, the bastion was completed. Its ramparts accommodated 250 cannons to provide a warm welcome for any undesirable visitors.

All incoming treasure was transported to Veracruz by mule train. This included much of the Andean gold and silver produced as well as exotic woods and spices from the Philippines, all of which converged at Acapulco on the Pacific Coast. Added to this was the Mexican gold and silver. Upon arrival at the Fuerte de San Juan de Ulua, this horde was catalogued and stored until the annual gold fleet gradually arrived from Spain. A secure storage facility was urgently required to handle the inconveniently large volumes of treasure that were assembled.

As we approached the site, we first passed a modern sentry box as this fort is situated on a Mexican naval base. After purchasing our admission tickets, we then stepped back in time and passed an old Spanish garita at the Sally Port.

Once inside at the Plaza de Armas, your first surprise is the beige façade with white leafy trim of the Casa del Gobernador (Governor’s House) that almost seems out-of-place with the rough-cut stone features of the other walls surrounding the plaza. A Spanish governor was installed here in 1601 to secure all of the treasure being shipped to Spain. The finely finished rooms of the Governor’s House now contain a museum displaying armour, pikes and flintlock pistols in addition to statues of saints, local indigenous pottery and figurines.

Typical of Spanish fortifications, the Plaza de Armas has casemates around the periphery. Unfortunately, those at San Juan de Ulua have been poorly maintained. Unique about these casemates is that they were used to store gold and silver. Look inside one of them and imagine a room filled with gold bars to a height of 4 feet or silver bars to a height of 6 feet. Each casemate was filled with enough precious metal to fill a single galleon to full capacity. The difference in height between gold and silver was necessitated because the former is much heavier and any greater volume of gold might potentially sink the ship. Once a casemate was filled to capacity, the precious metals were protected by large wooden doors and a padlock.

Climb the narrow staircase in the southeast corner of the Plaza de Armas to the second level. At the top of the stairs you find two observation towers that were constructed in 1584 to provide an early warning system in case of attack. The Baluarte de San Crispin in the southwest corner and the Baluarte de San Pedro in the southeast corner are both approximately 44 feet high. You also find a number of gun platforms strategically located around the ramparts on which to mount cannons.

Return to the Plaza de Armas and exit to the dock area on the south side of the fort. What you find is that there is only enough mooring space to accommodate 3 or 4 ships at a time. The wall along the docks is known as the Muro de las Argollas (wall of rings) and is named for the 35 heavy brass rings used to securely tie off the vessels while they were being loaded. Empty galleons were loaded to full capacity before they set sail to Havana and then eventually on to Puerto Rico and ultimately Cadiz or Seville in Spain.

The total volume of metals passing through the Fuerte de San Juan de Ulua each year would fill 60 to 80 galleons. At the same time it is impossible to believe that this huge stash of treasure was ever accumulated on site at any one time, as there was insufficient storage capacity. Logistically mule train delivery could not be coordinated with the arrival of the galleons. Since it was unlikely that the whole fleet arrived in Veracruz at the same time, there would likely have been sufficient time to replenish the treasure stores after they were depleted. It was only necessary to have enough treasure on hand to guarantee that each ship could be loaded to full capacity after they trickled into port.

Head back inside the fort and then exit by way of the Sally Port. Once outside, cross the drawbridge known as “The Bridge of Sighs” over to the Half-moon Bastion. This bastion housed political prisoners from 1755 to 1914. Up to 30 prisoners at a time were cruelly chained together in each dark, dank casemate. The only light source was two slits in the wall and water droplets continuously fell from the ceiling. Prisoners were arranged in such a way as to receive the Spanish version of the Chinese Water Torture. The prisoners have long since been replaced by short stalactites and stalagmites.

The Fuerte de San Juan de Ulua was designed to protect Spanish treasure and not the town of Veracruz just across the harbor. The Dutch exploited this weakness and sacked Veracruz in 1683 but the fort remained secure.

The fortress was never taken by force while it was under Spanish control. Even after Mexican independence from Spain in 1821, Spanish troops stubbornly occupied this site until November 1825 when they finally walked away into history.

If You Go:

The Castillo San Felipe del Morro and Castillo San Cristobal are both located in Old San Juan. A combination ticket to both is $5. The two sites are within walking distance of each other. They are also linked by the same trolley route. The trolley is free to ride.

You can visit the sites of El Cañuelo and the Fortin San Jeronimo but you cannot enter either of them. El Cañuelo has been filled with concrete by the U.S. National Park Service in order to prevent further deterioration and the Fortin San Jeronimo is closed behind a chain link fence.

The Castillo de San Marcos is located at 1 S. Castillo Drive St. Augustine, Florida. Admission is $10.

To reach the Fuerte de San Juan de Ulua in Veracruz, you must travel there by tour bus from the Malecon near the Mercado de Artesanias San Miguel Aleman Valdes on Avenida Insurgentes. The cost of the bus ride is 35 pesos. This does not include admission to the fort. The price of admission to the fort is 55 pesos. During the summer there is supposedly a boat that will take you directly across the harbor to the fort but our visit was in February so this cannot be confirmed.

Photographs:
All Photos by Diane Gagnon. A freelance photographer, she has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. Her photographs have accompanied Troy Herrick’s articles in Live Life Travel, Offbeat Travel and Travels Thru History Magazines.

Mexico: The Magic That Is Tlaquepacque

by Barb Harmon

Author James A. Michener once said, “If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion, and avoid the people, you might better stay at home.” Wise words, wise man. To me, travel has always been about immersing myself in the culture of the area I am visiting…food, customs, a better understanding of the religion and getting to know the people. It enriches your experience. I recently had the good fortune to visit the village of Ajijic and the other small communities that make up the Lakeside region of Mexico. I fell in love with a capital L and will be returning with husband in tow in the very near future.

While in Ajijic I visited Tlaquepacque. I thought it would be “touristy” but I was wrong. The scores of local people experiencing the magic Tlaquepacque offers, put that myth to rest.

Though small at 105 square miles, the municipality of Tlaquepacque is known for its high quality arts and crafts housed in spectacular old mansions. With two churches, two pottery and ceramic museums, a bevy of restaurants, and more shops than you can count, you will be entertained for hours. The pedestrian friendly Independencia Avenue is the ‘main street’ but I encourage you to explore the side streets as well. There is more to Tlaquepacque than first meets the eyes. Here is my list of four ‘not to be missed’ attractions.

Female Mariachi Band at El Patio

Mariachi music as we know it, started in the 19th century. It is more than music, its cultural…heritage. Most Mariachi bands are male but on Sundays you will find a female Mariachi band at El Patio Restaurant [TOP PHOTO]. These women are talented! They sing like angels and play their instruments with pride and fiery passion. Once they step outside with their dancers to perform, a crowd forms immediately. This was a treat and is not to be missed. If you should be hungry, follow them inside the restaurant for an authentic experience.

The Jardin Hidalgo

The Jardin Hidalgo filled with laughter, music, chirping birds, and happy people is the heart of Tlaquepacque. Its melodious fountains, numerous flower beds and shady trees, provides a visually stunning space for those seeking to get away from the crowded avenues. The colorful bandstand draws those who are seeking shade on a sizzling sunny day. Surrounded by Tlaquepacque’s two churches, you are sure to hear the ringing of church bells. Take time to walk around the square, you will not be disappointed.

Easy to find…look for the Church tower

The street artisans

While there are many shops to tempt you with handmade items, interesting items for sale can be found if you just look down. While walking in front of the Santuario de Nuestra Senora de la Soledad Church (behind the Jardin Hildalgo), I spotted this artisan creating crucifixes out of palm fronds. Her hands were magical. I was captivated by the speed with which she fashioned a frond into a crucifix. There are many artisans like this scattered around town, just keep your eyes open and you are bound to find a special souvenir.

Imaginative bronze sculptures

Amazing sculptures are scattered throughout Tlaquepacque. They run the gamut from life like to surreal. What they have in common is detail, exquisite detail. My favorite is by Sergio Bustamante. Born in Mexico, he is an artist who has worked in all mediums but is best known for his sculptures. As I stood in front of this sculpture, a gentleman shared that Bustamante was fascinated by the thought of children flying and often had dreams of flying as a child. This sculpture, according to him, was based on that theme.

Bustamante has a gallery on Calle Independencia. I walked inside hoping to find out more about the flying theme. It was a weekend and they were busy. The next visit will be mid week…I am planning on having my questions answered.

The magic

The magic that is Tlaquepacque will get into your soul. The smiling faces of folks enjoying the day, the food…the treasures around every corner.

Once you visit, it will capture your heart.

If You Go:

Transportation

Cabs are plentiful from Guadalajara. The journey takes about 15 minutes and is US$6. From Ajijic it’s 45 minutes with a price of US$25.

Eat

El Patio offers an extensive menu to suit virtually every palate. Remember, this is where the female Mariachi band performs on Sundays.
Independencia #186

Visit

Galeria Sergio Bustamante, Calle Independencia #238

About the author:
Barb Harmon is a freelance travel writer. Time spent in the Netherlands as an exchange student fueled a passion for travel. She has lived in Switzerland. As empty nesters, she and her husband are frequent travelers. She is a member of ITWA. Her blog is www.chasingthenextchapter.com

All photos are by Barb Harmon
Female Mariachi Band with their dancers
Calle independencia
Jardin Hidalgo
Skilled street artisan
Sculpture by Sergio Bustamante
A colorful arcade

Mexico: Exploring the Yucatan Cenotes

by Roger Howie

The Maya flourished for centuries in the dry hot desert of the Yucatan Peninsula, establishing a society which has kept archeologists busy with study.

How? The presence of easily accessed underground fresh water. Huge caves and intricate tunnels filled with fresh water known locally as cenotes (see-NO-tays). These cenotes are numerous sinkholes, many connected by tunnels of varying sizes. Estimates range between 6,000 – 10,000, with only 2400 explored.

Ex-pat former British Naval Officers, young scuba enthusiasts and Mexican descendants of the Mayans provide diving tours from Tulum, Playa del Carmen and other centres to the cenotes.

My first cenote visit was to Zaci, in the city of Valladolid which has developed a public park complete with a restaurant and excellent viewing platforms. These can be accessed for a small entrance fee of less than $1.00.

The damp permeated my nostrils with freshness cutting through the hot dry city air as I approached. The calls of hundreds of birds swarming this big hole in the ground foretold of the transition from the bustling town to an oasis of natural phenomenon.

Long tree branches grew out over the cenote edge, bending down toward the water’s surface one hundred feet below. I made my way down to the surface along an easy to negotiated combination of man-made and natural stone steps that spiraled along the cenote wall where birds flit about catching insects. This was just not quite enough to satiate my cenote interest. Now I was inspired to get underground to experience the beauty of the caves.

I was excited to investigate X’quequen (eggy-kay-gun) the Cenote at Zipnup, approximately 4 Km south west of Vallalodid.

As the tour buses show up between 11 and 11:30 AM, I managed to view several sights without tour crowds by utilizing local transit, taxis and even hitch-hiking, to arrive by 8 – 8:30 am when most of the sites opened.

A bike shop near my hotel provided me with well-used clunker for $2, apparently the only bicycle that was available. It must have been the one he started his business with or it had some kind of sentimental value, because the owner was almost made me feel guilty to ride it, and followed me as I disappeared into the morning traffic even though I assured him that I would be careful with his ‘bambino’, as the crank smacked against the bearings and outside on the frame as I pedaled.

I pedaled the short ride west on the Carr. Costero Del Golfo, also known as Highway 180, then went left at the Hacienda Selva Maya onto Dzitnup. Timing was perfect. I wheeled into the sight just as the gates were unlocked. I was the first visitor.

I was forced to explain to the employees, with inventive, dramatic physical gestures and limited Spanish, my claustrophobia at the low-ceilinged entrance, but I passed through quickly without further stress into the entirely dark, damp space. An employee came behind and turned on the dim lights, exposing the most amazing sight — stalagmites with bats perched above a small lake covered by a great stone dome with a centre hole open to the world above. A few moments later a sharp beam of sunlight shot through the hole igniting the walls with extraordinary colours and inviting me to swim bravely alone into the eerie alcoves, bats flitting overhead and ‘blind’ fish bumping into my legs.

If You Go:

In order to go on organized scuba dives of the cenotes, one need only ask a at your hotel or read the tourist paraphernalia supplied on stands as the tours are numerous, the second largest attraction after the Mayan dwelling sites (perhaps third if one includes sun and beach activities). I met several guides who all spoke perfect English despite their varied ethnic backgrounds including one fellow with whom I played beach volleyball, embarrassingly not even realizing that he was Mexican until he told me.

Private tour Coba – Cenote – Valladolid

About the author:
Roger Howie is a Vancouver, BC based ‘performance artist / culture addict’. He has acted, danced, played music, recited poetry to his hearts content throughout western Canada. Living in Europe on NATO bases as a young teen developed this taste for culture and travel.

Photo credits:

Mexico Cenote by Ekehnel (Emil Kehnel) / CC BY
Cenote Zaci by<Haakon S. Krohn / CC BY
Cenote Xkekén by<Editoryuca / CC BY-SA/

Exploring Trading Sites in Mayan Mexico

by Marsha Mildon

Standing alone, face to face with a mural depicting the Mayan diving god is one of those Indiana Jones moments that delight me when traveling. My first experience of this rare event happened in March of 2013 in the Xel Ha Architectural Zone. Now I admit up front that when wandering through pre-Hispanic cities in the Americas, I feel a real sense of communication with the original people. So I had been touring Mayan sites for years, but I had only seen murals in museums, never before on the original wall.

This first solo excursion resulted from seeing the small ruin on the beach at the Grand Sirenis resort in Xaac Bay. “That building looks like Tulum,” I thought.

To check my memory, I returned to Tulum. Sure enough, the majority of buildings used a design like Xaac Bay: square, double rows of decorated stones around the top, and windows in the seaward side.

Some quick Internet research introduced me to the world of an extensive Mayan maritime trading network. From 900 AD to the Spanish conquest, trade was conducted in large Mayan canoes along the east coast from northern Yucatan as far south as Honduras.

As the large city states indulged in destructive wars, survivors moved to the coast and built, or adapted, simpler sites, in what is now called the East Coast Style, like Tulum. These sites had access to ocean fish and shellfish; were set on or near coastal harbors for their trading activities, and had one or more cenotes nearby for fresh water during a long drought.

Trade goods included everyday things such as salt for drying food and obsidian for knives, arrow points, tools, and weapons of war. Luxury items such as jade, turquoise, and quetzal feathers to show high rank were traded for the upper classes along with items like cotton and vanilla. And their trade currency was positively delightful: Cacao (chocolate) beans.

The map below is my rough sketch of the Yucatan Peninsula with several of the major Mayan trading centers marked. So far I have managed to visit El Rey, Ixchel, Xaman Ha, Xel Ha, Tancah, Tulum, and Muyil, viewing without meeting other tourists except for Tulum and Muyil. While there are interesting features for Maya-philes at all sties, my favorites are Xel Ha and Muyil.

Xel Ha

I chose Xel Ha for my first exploration. There was a driveway, a modern building where people took an entry fee, and a map on a sign. In I went.

The Group I found first was Group B which showed typical East Coast style features: squared buildings, some with pillars, and evidence of the typical Maya practice of erecting new buildings over old. I was elated to be wandering through possible rooms of Mayan traders.

From Group B, I followed a path north toward buildings close to the highway, arriving at the Group of Birds. And there I saw my first mural on its original wall, the Bird Mural. The Temple of the Birds sits on several platforms so the murals are well above eye level, but easy to climb with care for building and one’s ankles. The Bird mural in red, green, and yellow shows a local long-tailed, short-beaked bird. It is an early Classic period around 300-600 AD when the site was first inhabited.

Following the building around to the south side, I found my personal favorite mural on the site, the three-panel mural with the diving god shown at the beginning of this article. The diving god — probably associated with the Mayan bees and Venus — stares down at the solo visitor from 1500 ago, an inspiring and somewhat solemn sight. This god was important to the Mayans, with murals and sculptures in many sites. Honey and astronomy, food and a world view —those were crucial to the ancient Mayans as their civilization struggled for survival, just as they are to us today.

From there, I walked east along the hot and sunny Sacbe, the Mayan white road built up with white rocks and shells, I arrived at the Jaguar Group and its beautiful — cooling— cenote.

After a quick dip, I examined the 3-columned palace of the Jaguar. Alas, the diving god mural that had been on the outer wall overlooking the cenote was severely damaged by Hurricane Wilma in 2005. However, peering in through a mesh barrier gave me a clear view of the large Jaguar mural in red ochre, black and the remarkable Mayan blue. Again, the black eyes of the Jaguar stared back at me, delivering their message from the Mayan culture. Those eyes look out from the milennium-old Mayan blue made of añil leaves traded from Guatemala and local clay, as brilliant as those at any larger site.

A small site, usually empty of other tourists, and now with good signage, Xel Ha is probably the best self-guided tour available to have a close-up encounter with ancient Mayans. It fairly glows with images of what was important to them.

Muyil or Chanyaché

To go to Muyil, on the other hand, I would choose one of the Mayan tour groups, both for the information their guides have and for the opportunity to enjoy a complete Mayan experience. Set in the Sian Ka’an United Nations Biosphere, the pyramids of Muyil rise out of jungle wetlands.

First settled around 300 BC, Muyil is one of the oldest continually inhabited trading sites, thus including classic pyramids similar to Tikal, round temples perhaps performance buildings or observatories, and the post classic East Coast building.

Unlike other trading centers, Muyil is not right at the ocean. Instead it is at the end of one natural canal, two freshwater lagoons, and a canal built by the Maya between 1000 and 2000 years ago. When I travelled there in 2016, nine of us took two boats through the first fresh water lagoon, the Mayan canal, the second lagoon and into the natural canal that flows to the sea.

Part way along this canal, there is a dock beside the boardwalk into the ruins. On my 2014 tour, we followed the boardwalk to the ruins. In 2016, we left our boat and floated down the canalsitting in life preservers. With a good current, because of the movement of fresh to salt water, this is a safe activity with lots of waterbirds around. And it’s fun; I laughed through the whole 40 minute float.

Back in the Mayan village, we had the option of choosing fish, Mayan style, (Tikin Xic),with a sauce made of gourd seeds, mild seasoning, tomatoes,onions, grilled in banana leaves by the villagers. My only regret is that I can’t find banana leaves for cooking it in Canada.

Combo Tour in Coba and Xel-Ha in Cancun

If You Go:

Xel Ha

In 2016, the Xel Ha Archeological Zone is now well signed so you can ask a collectivo driver or taxi driver to let you off near the entrance, on the east side of Hwy 307 about 300 yards south of the Xel Ha theme park. Cost is now 65 pesos. There is no food or water for sale and a lot of mosquitos, so bring your own snacks and some biodegradable insect repellent.

Muyil

It is possible to get to Muyil by car driving south of Tulum. However, this is a place that I prefer to visit with a local tour company, for both the information and the fun.

I have gone with both Community Tours Sian Kaan and Mayans Explorers and would recommend either. Both provide canal floats, boat rides, ruin tours as well as other activities. Whatever way you see Muyil, try to make sure it includes some genuine Mayan food. And take an extra T-shirt to wear while you float because even in hot weather, the water will cool you eventually.

Mayans Explorers is a family-owned tour company, with knowledgeable guides, many with appropriate PhDs. It has offices in Playa del Carmen but picks people up at their hotels.

Community Tours is a community organization started by Mayans from Sian Ka’an villages and hires local Mayans as guides, boat captains, bus drivers, cooks, and servers. It also gives monthly funds to the Mayan villages from the business. In addition to economic development they are also dedicated to environmental preservation. For these reasons, I personally choose them. They have offices in Tulum and also picks people up at hotels.

About the author:
The first time Marsh Mildon saw a photo of Machu Picchu was on her 40th birthday and her life changed. Since then, she has spent all my vacations and several months of volunteering in Central and South America, visiting ruins of many peoples and many ages. She is fascinated by the cultures of the ancient Americans. In between trips south, she works as a freelance writer/photographer with two published novels, several stage plays, and hundreds of non-fiction articles published (all in print not online).www.marshadelsol-mildon.artistwebsites.com.

All photos are by Marsha Mildon:
The jaguar temple
The Diving god at Xel Ha stares down at the visitor with its clear red ochre, green, and yellow colors.
Pillars, platforms, and new walls built over old are typical Mayan architectural styles that we can touch in Group B.
The bird mural is a three panel mural with images of birds on two sides with a somewhat indistinct Mayan symbol for ‘lord’ in the center.
The cenote can be seen from the Temple of the Jaguar and is lovely for a quick dip or foot paddle after walking the jungle-shrouded sacbe.