by Daniel Otero
With a space in circumference of 15 kilometers, Xuanwu Lake in Nanjing is a place for those who enjoys nature walks, runs, going to the Isle to view its man made stone gardens and greenery. The artificial mixes in just nicely with the natural. Life is beating constantly around the Lake and Nanjing Wall, considered by most a bird sanctuary so of interest to bird watchers. There is a scenic panorama of romantic-long walks and boat rides. For 30 RMB (5.81 CAD), tourists can climb the old stone steps to the top of the Wall. If you have enough stamina to walk the 15K, that’s almost one-third of a marathon!
The entrance to Xuanwu Lake is gorgeous and colorful with gracious Chinese architecture. It’s located 200 meters from the Xuanwu Station metro line 1. The Lake itself has shown special historical significance since the days of the Song Dynasty; where the Navy rehearsed and trained for battle. After the construction of the Nanjing Wall, it remained a constant protection of the city and the longest uninterrupted city wall till the 17th Century.
The Wall and Lake in conjunction is a magnet for those who enjoy revisiting the past. While Xuanwu overlooks the Zifeng Tower (13th tallest building in the world) and further into the distance, there’s the Jiming Temple. It’s a must see when visiting Nanjing.
Xuanwu is a great walkabout around the Lake and Isle. Whether it’s to see it one time or the one-hundredth, it’s well worth the experience. The negatives about Xuanwu Lake are that it has turned more into a U.S. theme park, where the tickets for the boat rides are overpriced. Sadly, this has turned it into a ‘Disney’ show and not a lesson in culture or for that matter, Chinese history. It’s just too expensive and over-commercialized. It has more kiosks promoting McDonalds than Chinese food. And it’s not only the promotion of burgers. They’re also the Miami Beach Hot Dogs or the Korean elements of cuisine. Chinese culture has almost entirely been excluded from the mix of fast food menus! Outrageous as it may sound, an average Chinese lunch or meal comes to about 12 RMB (2.33 CAD). If you buy a set or combo at one of the fast food stations, prices go as high as 35 to 45 RMB (6.78 to 8.72 CAD). For the average Chinese—that’s taxing on the pocket!
I suggest, whether it’s the first time visiting or the last; to be here in China is to learn more about Chinese history/culture and admire the beautiful views. Therefore, the best way to spending money is to climb Nanjing’s historic and most beautiful wall, and walk the distance to contemplate on the gorgeous buildings, pagodas and temples far off into the distance. Then, it will be a true taste of China.
Nanjing City Highlights Private Day Tour
If You Go:
Nanjing is a city easy to access through its metro system. Traveling from the South of the city or downtown, Xinjiekou–take metro line 1 going north. Get off at the third stop. The station is identified in Chinese as well as in Romanized-Pinyin, “Xuanwumen”.
Daniel Otero is a teacher and part-time writer for Beijing Global Times and Hangzhou Weekly. He has been living in the city of Nanjing for six years. And one of the greatest reasons for this New Yorker to stay in Nanjing: its great worth of people, food and ancient history.
All photos by Daniel Otero
3) Gandhak Ki Baoli
6) Baoli of NizamuddinLocation: Nizamuddin Dargah complex
The city of Agra in North India is synonymous with the Taj Mahal, the apogee of Mughal architecture in India. The Mughal Empire was founded by Babur in 1526, a descendent of Timur (Tamerlane) and Genghis Khan. Babur reigned from 1526-1530. He was succeeded by his son Humayun. But the Mughal Dynasty truly flourished under the rule of the emperors who followed Humayun, his son Akbar (1556-1605), Akbar’s son Jahangir (1605-1627), and Akbar’s grandson Shah Jahan (1628-1658), known as the builder of the Taj Mahal.
On a hot, summer day in August, with temperatures reaching 100F, we traveled to Agra from New Delhi in a rented car with driver. This is one of the best ways to go to Agra in the hot months as taxis such as these are air conditioned and one can travel in relative comfort. Our first stop was at Sikandra, the mausoleum of Emperor Akbar, about 10 kilometers from Agra city center. Considered as the greatest Mughal emperor, he was the most secular minded royalty and a patron of the arts, literature, philosophy and science. Akbar himself laid out the plans for his own tomb, selected an appropriate site and even started building it. His son Emperor Jahangir finished building the tomb in 1613.
The hallmark of Mughal architecture in India is in the use of red sandstone and marble. We entered the mausoleum complex through a red sandstone gateway, with four minarets in each corner, immediately bringing to mind the Taj Mahal. There are four gateways into the complex but only one is in use now. A broad, paved plaza like walkway leads to the tomb. Magnificent in its look, the tomb is a five story red sandstone building, carved with glazed tiles and colorful stones. The eye catching mosaic patterns that cover the gateway and the tomb entrance embody the essence of Mughal design showcasing elaborate stone inlay work, calligraphy, tile work, painted stucco and white marble.
At around 7 am next morning, we reached the Taj Mahal. In the early morning quiet, we had an easy time of buying tickets and then we headed towards the main entrance gateway to the Taj. I could feel the palpable excitement in the air as we waited to get in. One first views the Taj through the dark entrance way and I remembered my first visit all those years ago. The Taj is one monument I feel that exceeds the expectations of the viewer no matter how many times they have seen it.
The tomb complex stands on the southern banks of the River Yamuna and took twenty years to be completed. It is made of white marble inlaid with semi-precious stones that form intricate designs using the pietra dura technique. There are verses from the Quran, inscribed in calligraphy on various sections of the complex including its arched entrances. Like at Sikandra, the Taj too is situated in a four square Mughal paradise garden, on its northernmost end and on a raised marble platform. The four decorative minarets on each corner lean away slightly so that in the event of an earthquake they do not fall on the main structure. Both Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal are interred here and we see their highly decorated marble cenotaphs directly below the main dome. Both these are false tombs and the real tombs are underground and cannot be viewed by the public.
Soon it was time to leave and move on to the next historic site on our itinerary, the Agra Fort, also known as the Red Fort of Agra. Emperor Akbar began building this massive red sandstone fort in 1565 and it was completed with further additions by Emperors Jahangir and Shah Jahan. Predominantly built as a military structure, Shah Jahan constructed several white marble palaces within the premises. It too is a UNESCO World Heritage Site designated so in the same year as the Taj.
We walked around the fort in the blinding August midday heat, strangely unperturbed, feeling ourselves being transported to the Mughal glory days. We strolled through marble pavilions and red sandstone hallways, stopping to admire the elaborate and intricate carvings. The Agra Fort is a superb example of Indo-Muslim architecture with Persian influences. This is seen in the floral and geometric designs that cover the walls, the archways, and in the intricate jali (perforated stone and latticed screens) patterns and the balconies that overlook the Yamuna River and the Taj Mahal. In the final years of his life, Shah Jahan and his daughter Jahanara Begum were imprisoned here in the tower known as Musamman Burj by his son Emperor Aurangzeb when he came to power in 1658. It is said that he spent his last days looking out at the mausoleum of his beloved Mumtaz Mahal.
While closer to Chikmagalur, we decided to take a quick detour to visit the renowned temples of Halebid and Belur, both located about 30 km (though in different directions) from Chikmagalur. Both these temples are characterized by ornate pillars, detailed panels, intricate carvings, beautiful sculptures and are the finest examples of the Hoysala school of architecture. The Hoysaleswara temple in Halebid, dating back to the 12th century has it walls covered with myriad sculptures which depict a wide variety of Hindu Gods, mythological birds and animals. It is indeed a marvel that no two sculptures here are the same.
One of the most popular attractions in Chikmagalur is the peak of Mullayyanagiri. This is the highest peak in Karnataka and at a little less than 2000 meters, it is one of the most loved trekking destinations. However, the road to Mullayyanagiri is very narrow with steep curves. Unless traveling on a clear sunny day, there is every chance that the road ahead would be very foggy with very low visibility. The road ends a little below the peak beyond which a small trek takes you to the peak which houses a temple. The views are picturesque and breathtaking and provide a great spectacle of the Arabian Sea on clear days.
Close to Bababudan giri are the Manikyadhara Falls which again is a much visited destination. Though small, the waterfalls are frequented throughout the year as it is considered a holy site. Tourists as well as locals bathe in the water as it is believed to have divine therapeutic powers. We too had a quick dip in the waters before proceeding back.
In the city, the coffee museum is yet another ‘must visit’. Nestled in the greenery of the ‘coffee land’, this place is a store house of information on the history of coffee, its cultivation, varieties, grading and basically everything you ever wanted to know about coffee. An initiative by the Coffee Board of India, the museum also houses the coffee quality evaluation and training center. Attractive visuals and maps display interesting trivia and the place gives you a complete picture of the “bean to brew” journey. With a modest entry fee, this place can really boost your knowledge on coffee and it is recommended for adults and children alike.
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For 20 RMB the grounds hold an opportunity to walk in, and with three incense given once a ticket is purchased to light-up and bow towards all four corners of the Temple several times. After, there’s a place to put the incense upright upon the blessings. There’re other forms of blessings, like buying a red-ribbon and tying it to the veranda or tree.
How one enters the temple and how to conduct oneself? It’s as simple as stepping over, with feet not touching the small barrier through its doors and walking over a small bridge always on the right or left, but never through the center. A person can take photos outside; however, one never takes photographs of the Buddha inside the respective buildings.
By the way, through the contemplative walk, there is a beautiful white Guanyin Buddha measuring nearly three stories high in the center of the gardens.
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