by Troy Herrick
Ireland has been called the Land of Saints and Scholars because of its strong monastic tradition. Patrick, the Patron Saint of Ireland, brought Christianity to the island in the 5th century CE. Within one hundred years of his arrival numerous monastic settlements had sprang up around the country. Centuries later some small towns even had more than one monastery belonging to different orders of monks like the Benedictines, Franciscans, Cistercians or Dominicans. These monasteries thrived over the centuries and became wealthy.
Henry VIII, King of England and Ireland, viewed these monasteries as sources of untapped wealth during the Reformation and decreed that they should be closed or destroyed. His legacy provides you with many ruins to visit throughout the country. As such you need to be very choosy about where to spend your valuable vacation time. Two sites that should not be missed are Glendalough and the Rock of Cashel.
Glendalough
As we stood outside the former monastic site at Glendalough, our guide, Joan, directed us to the 900-year old gateway and indicated that the original structure had two round-headed granite arches supporting a timber roof. This was the gateway to civilization at the time. The lands beyond the monastic settlement teamed with highwaymen and other dangers. I imagined terrified individuals running past us through the gate to reach the cross-inscribed stone set just inside on the right as Joan explained that Glendalough was a place of refuge. The so-called “Sanctuary Stone” defined the point of safety for those on the run. Once a refugee passed inside the gate beyond the stone, he/she was safe.
Stepping inside the gate, you see a round tower protruding from the green foliage a short distance away. This 100- foot tall stone needle essentially identified the site of the monastery. This multi-purpose structure served as a bell tower, a treasury and a place of refuge in times of attack. The monks retreated inside through the entrance 10-12 feet off the ground, pulled up the ladder and closed the door.
In the vicinity of the round tower, the remains of a cathedral, dedicated to St Peter and St Paul, consist of a 10th century nave and a 12th century chancel. The arch, once finely decorated, is constructed of limestone imported from Bristol, England. A wall cupboard and basin used for washing the sacred vessels used in the mass is still visible in the sacristy.
The guided tour portion of the Glendalough visit ended after short stops at the Priest’s House, St. Kevin’s Church and St Ciaran’s Church. Exiting the site, Diane and I drove up the road to a strip of land separating the upper and lower lakes. Glendalough (glean dá locha) translates to “glen of the two lakes”.
The postcard-like view of the upper lake features green hills gently rolling into the water on your left and trees at the water’s edge on your right. Opposite you in the distance, a stream descends the mountain into the lake. This tranquil setting greeted St. Kevin almost 14 centuries ago.
Parking our car at the gate, we walked to the caher, a 60 foot diameter stone ring fort of unknown age. The caher may have been on site during St. Kevin’s time but those who constructed it were not. Kevin, known as a hermit priest, originally settled at Glendalough because of its isolation. Others later followed because they were drawn by the presence of this holy man.
Walking on, you enter a grove of trees to find the derelict 11th century Reefert Church with its stone nave and chancel. This church was a major attraction for those on pilgrimage to Glendalough as St. Kevin’s relics were housed here after his death.
“Reefert” is derived from Righ Fearta meaning “the burial place of Kings”. History records that seven princes of the O’Toole Clan were interred at this holy site but their graves are not apparent in the churchyard outside.
Following a path beyond Reefert Church brings you to St. Kevin’s Cell. This basic home is believed to have been a “beehive-like” structure with a corbelled roof. Nothing remains other than the base. The pathway leading to St Kevin’s Cell was too muddy to continue so we ended our visit at this point and returned to enjoy the tranquil beauty of the upper lake over a picnic lunch.
The Rock of Cashel
Slowly Diane and I climbed to the summit of the 300-foot high limestone promontory known as the Rock of Cashel. At the top, we were rewarded with a panoramic view of the green fields of County Tipperary below and the town of Cashel at the base. Despite the presence of the town below, the rock feels isolated.
From the 4th century CE, the rock was used as a stronghold for the High Kings of Munster. Today visitors find no evidence of 1700 years of settlement. The oldest structure, dating to the 12th century, is the 90-foot round tower. This tower was constructed of fitted stones after King Muircheartach O’Brien donated the Rock of Cashel to the Catholic Church in 1101.
Set next to the round tower, you find the shell of the second cathedral on site, dating to 1235. The current gray stone structure is cruciform with a central tower. The nave, which was never completed, is shorter than the choir. The north transept houses three sarcophagi, dating the 16th century, each with carved bas reliefs of the apostles around the periphery. The Protestant Church of Ireland abandoned this cathedral in the mid 17th century and then had the roof removed to collect the lead for ammunition. The cathedral lacks a roof to this day.
Cormac’s Chapel, built by Benedictine monks, stands next to the cathedral. Dating to 1134, this Romanesque chapel has a German influence in its construction. The Abbot of Regensburg sent two carpenters to help build the twin towers on either side at the junction of the nave and chancel.
Inside the chapel, you find a white vaulted ceiling with plaster fragments falling off. The whitewash, dating from the Reformation in the 16th century, was used to cover the oldest frescoes in Ireland including those of the Nativity. An intricately carved sarcophagus at the back of the chapel might possibly be that of King Cormac himself.
Exiting the chapel, we again savored the magnificent view before us. Clouds were giving way to blue sky in the distance. Somehow the site felt a little less lonely with the birds singing.
Luxury Shore Excursion: Dublin Highlights and Glendalough Day Trip from Dublin
If You Go:
♦ Admission to Glendalough is 3 Euros.
♦ Admission to the Rock of Cashel is 6 Euros.
♦ You can also purchase the Heritage Pass. This provides free admission to the two sites outlined here.
♦ For more information about Ireland, visit www.plan-a-dream-trip.com/discover-ireland.html
♦ Plan your vacation at: www.plan-a-dream-trip.com
Kilkenny and Cashel Day Trip from Cork
About the author:
Troy Herrick, a freelance travel writer, has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. His articles have appeared in Live Life Travel, International Living, Offbeat Travel and Travels Thru History Magazines.
Photographs:
Diane Gagnon is a freelance photographer who has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. Her photographs have accompanied Troy Herrick’s articles in Live Life Travel, Offbeat Travel and Travel Thru History Magazines.
Glendalough – Priest’s House
Glendalough – Gateway
Glendalough – Cathedral
Glendalough – Caher
Glendalough – Reefert Church
Rock of Cashel – Cathedral and Round Tower
Rock of Cashel – Cathedral
View from the Rock of Cashel
On a previous visit to Paris, I had been soundly rebuked by an elderly French gentleman when I told him that I’d never visited Sainte-Chapelle, so on this visit I was determined to rectify my earlier omission. I’m so glad I took that gentleman’s advice, for Sainte Chapelle, with its glorious stained glass windows is a sight not to be missed.
My next port of call, still in the same Palace of Justice complex, was the Conciergerie, on the west side of the island, facing the Quai d’Horlage. The Conciergerie takes its name from the post of the Concierge, a high-ranking official who was placed in command of the Palace of Justice when Charles V moved his royal palace to the Louvre. Part of the Palace was converted to a prison in 1391 and, over the centuries, criminals from all walks of life whiled away their miserable years in the dank cells. The Conciergerie is best remembered, however, for those imprisoned during the French Revolution, when citizens suspected of being counter-revolutionaries were incarcerated in the Conciergerie while they awaited their turn at the guillotine. The most famous prisoner of all was Marie Antoinette, wife of the ill-fated Louis XVI, who awaited her execution in a tiny cell, only separated from her guards’ constant surveillance, by a curtain drawn across half the cell.
The Ile Saint-Louis was originally called the “Island of the Cows” but was renamed in honour of Louis IX. The connecting bridge to the Ile de la Cité was completed around 1628 and a bridge to the mainland was built in 1635. Once access to the island was accomplished, building began in earnest – all the nouveau riche – the wealthy farmers, merchants and members of the bureaucracy – hurriedly bought land and built beautiful hôtels on the eastern half of the island. Development on the western side came later, where the houses were built in the same elegant design.
Instead of carrying around a thick guide book which forces visitors to stare down at the tiny print and flip pages, a great option for those seeking to learn about the war-related history is to sign up for Sandeman’s New Europe, Third Reich walking tour. For 12 euro, my journey through the dark history began at the center of the city, at the beautiful Marienplatz. Immediately, the tour guide, who was a walking treasure chest of knowledge instructed the group of 10-15 people to look up at our surroundings. After explaining how the majority of the area was completely bombed out during World War II, he pointed to the main spires of the Marienplatz, and the giant green domes from the Frauenkirche. He explained how the bomber jets from the allied forces used them as landmarks in their bombing campaign, therefore they were spared and remained mostly intact. Chills immediately shot down my spine, as I felt the realness in which surrounded me. This was real, and these were not events which took place in the Dark Ages; this was a time that our close relatives could have lived through. It was a time in which the desperation of the German people gave way to the rise of a former painter from Austria, and allowed Adolf Hitler to guide his people, and the world into a conflict that took the lives of nearly 85 million people.
Walking through the streets of the 1,000-year-old city would lead most to believe that the surrounding buildings go back hundreds of years, but they would be greatly mistaken. Following the rise of Adolf Hitler in the early 1930s, Munich became the birthplace of the Nazi Party, and eventually one of the biggest targets for the allies during World War II. The result was thousands of bombs being droppedtact on the city, and to this day, an estimated 2,000 un-detonated bombs are still buried beneath the city. Since nearly 90 percent of the city was completely demolished, everything has been rebuilt, and reconstructed in the 70 years since to end of the war. While construction continues in the Bavarian capital, bombs are still discovered on a weekly basis, and teams have to come in to safely detonate the bombs which range anywhere from 4 lbs to 22,000 lbs. Our tour guide told stories how entire street blocks have to be closed, and entire apartment complexes cleared out when one is discovered. Life goes on, and the residents of Munich accept it as if it is nothing more than a minor inconvenience.
Prior to the air-raids by allied troops, Adolf Hitler was well aware that Munich would be a major target, and knew the city would be leveled. Planning ahead, he ordered photos be taken throughout the city, so that when the war ended, the city could be built exactly as it was prior to its near destruction. Following the death of Hitler and the fall of the Nazi’s, the German people voted to restore the city to its old glory, resulting in a complete rebuild. Since everything has been rebuilt, it gives visitors a unique perspective roaming the streets, and ducking into beer halls and cafes that fill the city. While the history is thick, and I could nearly feel it hanging in the air, it also felt like stepping into a movie set. Along the guided tour, we were taken to places of historical significance, such as the world-famous Hofbräuhaus. We were taken upstairs into the beautiful beer hall, and shown the place where the Nazi leader once spoke. However, the reality is that the building is a complete replication of the original, somewhat taking away some of the powerfulness which stood before me. It is fascinating, yet saddening how such beautiful architecture and sights were destroyed, but in spite of the restoration, there is still the ghost of the German dictator that echoes throughout the halls.
The delightful medieval town of Narni in Umbria would perhaps have gone almost unnoticed, apart from being considered to be the exact geographical centre of Italy, if it hadn’t been for C.S.Lewis. While examining a Latin atlas of Europe, he came across the name Narnia, which soon took on a whole new meaning. Although Lewis never visited Narnia, or Narni, as it is now known, it may not be pure coincidence that the tomb of Blessed Lucy of Narni can be found in the town’s impressive cathedral. Images of mythical beasts in stone and iron decorate the ancient buildings and streets. The lion features prominently.
Guided tours of Narni Underground nowadays begin in the church, which was consecrated as “Santa Maria delle Rupe”, although the discovery of a copy of a fourteenth century contract revealed the church’s original name as being Chiesa di Sant’Angelo or S. Michele Archangelo (St Michael The Archangel). Although the church has sustained considerable damage, due to water infiltration, beautiful frescos of Christ on the Cross and symbols of the evangelists still adorn the walls and the ceiling is painted with stars and a symbol of The Lamb of God. The Archangel Michael features fighting a dragon and weighing souls. Several skeletons were found in tombs in the floor of the church, which has still not been completely excavated.
Convinced there was still more to discover, in May 1979, the young potholers, whose efforts to draw attention to their discovery were largely ignored, found a blocked up door in a garden on the other side of the wall. Being denied permission to try and open the door, the friends took advantage of boisterous festivities, during the local medieval celebration the “Corsa all’Anello”, to cover noise while they made a hole in the door. They were stunned by what they discovered. A short passage led to a large windowless chamber, which later came to light had been used by The Court of the Inquisition to “extract” confessions from those accused of polygamy, blasphemy, witchcraft and adultery- crimes which labelled them as heretics. “The Room of Torment” now contains models of gruesome torture instruments used on these ill-fated souls, including the rack and Judas cradle. Beyond the chamber, the group came across a tiny cell, completely covered in mysterious graffiti. The inscription “Santo Uffizio” (Holy Office), was the key to leading them to understand the area had been used by The Inquisition.
The graffiti in the prison cell appears to have largely been the work of one desperate prisoner, Giuseppe Andrea Lombardini, whose name is inscribed on the wall under the date 1759 and the remains of the word “Innocent”, which was erased by his guards. Lombardini left a series of cryptic messages and mysterious symbols ,made from a mixture of brick dust and urine, that seem to have a peculiar mixture of origins. Masonic symbols, such as a triangle with a dot, symbolising the eye of the Grand Architect of the Universe merge with strong Christian symbols such as crosses, religious monograms and a representation of the legend of St Nicolas. An image of a tree surrounded by doves is thought to symbolize the tree of life. A sinister falconer catching birds under the tree may represent the church, or the Inquistion itself, destroying freedom. The sequence 7, 24, 42, 70 is repeated in 3 areas within the cell. The sum of the interior numbers is 66, whereas that of the exterior numbers is 77, therefore implying the battle between good and evil. It is interesting to note that the graffiti artist deliberately replaces the letter D with the letter T in his inscriptions, which is believed to express hatred for the Dominican order who ran the Inquisition. Suns, moons, ladders, Jesuit and cabalistic images leave secret messages that have still not been completely deciphered.
In 2004, it was discovered that Trinity College, Dublin housed a number of important documents referring to the Inquisition including transcripts of the trial of Domenico Ciabocchi, confirming the existence of The Inquisition in Narni. Following this discovery, Robert Nini, one of the intrepid potholers and now president of Narni Underground, wrote to Cardinal Ratzinger (later Pope Benedict XIV) who granted him permission to consult the secret archives in the Vatican.
Wenceslas Square, one of the most legendary squares in Central Europe, in Prague, Czech Republic, has played host to a number of fitting names as well as false names. In tandem with the Czech people daily traversing its dark cobblestone, political subjugation in the 20th century led to cultural suppression and the great Wenceslas Square- named after a beloved Czech Saint and hero- was known momentarily by other names. Wenceslas Square (Vaclavske Namesti in Czech) was victimized by names and ideals forced upon it first by Adolf Hitler and then by Josef Stalin.
I imagine Saint Wenceslas Square to be like a Czech person itself. She is (for I see her as a woman-elderly and strong) as much a part of Czech history and cultural identity as any other momentous figure- like say Saint Wenceslas himself, or King Charles for whom the oldest bridge in Europe was constructed, or the famously brilliant and brave Vaclav Havel.
