by Christine Sarikas
I had come to Fontainebleau doubtful of the merits of visiting French palaces. On my first visit to France I had toured Versailles, and any notions I had had of sweeping across luxurious rooms were dashed when my feet hit the expansive gravel entrance and I was bumped aside by a tour leader holding an umbrella high above her head.
Once inside Versailles, things improved slightly: the grandness and the opulence were there, but I did not sweep along the rooms as much as I was herded, pushed along in a sea of other tourists, all holding their cameras in front of their faces. During my visit, the Hall of Mirrors was under such heavy construction that I walked straight through that heralded place without realizing where I was. A friend dragged me back in, and I held my camera up and took an obligatory picture. I still have that photo of my foggy reflection, blurred from the dust coating the hall’s solitary uncovered mirror, my lips pursed, drop sheets festooned behind me.
Years later, on the eve of my next trip to France, a friend I was meeting sent me an e-mail that contained three words: Château de Fontainebleau? Some quick research told me Fontainebleau was a palace used by French royalty, about 45 minutes from Paris. I was skeptical, feeling that visiting would mean long lines and vast car parks, but my friend insisted, so to Fontainebleau we went.
My first impressions were favorable. Fontainebleau is one of the largest palaces in France, and its attractive buildings are bordered by expansive gardens and, farther on, the Forest of Fontainebleau. One enters through the Yard of the White Horse and is immediately struck by the château’s large horseshoe staircase. No gravel and not a tour group in sight.
Kings and Emperors
A château first stood on the site during the 12th century and served as a hunting lodge for the kings of France. In 1169, Thomas Becket, the exiled Archbishop of Canterbury, consecrated the site’s chapel to the Virgin Mary and Saint Saturnin. Numerous French kings visited and expanded the château, and in December of 1539, Fontainebleau, by then far larger and more luxurious than a simple hunting lodge, played host to Charles V, the Holy Roman Emperor. His son, Henry II of France, was a frequent visitor, and Henry’s wife Catherine de Medici gave birth to six of their children within the château. Hunting parties continued to be held at Fontainebleau, marriages were arranged and conducted, a peace treaty between France and England was signed on 16 September 1629, and over a century later Louis XVI signed a trade agreement with England, effectively signaling the end of the American Revolutionary War. Monarchs, royals, and heads of state all visited the château, but Fontainebleau’s most famous resident did not arrive until 1803.
Napoleon first visited the Château de Fontainebleau to inspect the newly finished military academy, École Spéciale Militaire. By the beginning of the 19th century, the château had fallen into disrepair; the vast majority of its furnishings had been sold during the French Revolution, and Fontainebleau was left empty and neglected. Napoleon chose to leave Versailles–with its Bourbon links–vacant and instead turned his attention to transforming Fontainebleau once again into a home and symbol of power.
More than any of the French kings who lived there before him, Napoleon completely refurbished Fontainebleau and restored it to its former grandeur. He is responsible for multiple structural changes, including widening the château’s cobblestone entrances in order to allow his carriage to pass through. Pope Pius VII stopped at Fontainebleau in 1804 when he came to crown Napoleon Emperor of the French at Notre Dame Cathedral. He returned to Fontainebleau as Napoleon’s prisoner in 1812 and remained in the château until 1814. Napoleon visited Fontainebleau regularly, hosting visitors and signing treaties within its walls. It was at Fontainebleau where, on 20 April 1814, Napoleon gave his famous farewell to his Old Guard and signed the Treaty of Fontainebleau, resigning from power in what is now known as the Abdication Room before being exiled to the island of Elba.
After his escape from Elba, Napoleon would return to Fontainebleau just once more, for a span of a few hours during the Hundred Days. Fontainebleau would become one of the favorite courts of his nephew, Napoleon III, who carried out the château’s final major structural changes with his wife Eugénie.
Architecture, Art, and Arbors
Less widely known and visited than Versailles, Fontainebleau still offers the same degree of beauty and splendor. Its long history and renovations by generations of rulers has meant that Fontainebleau’s sprawling palace showcases examples of French architecture from the 12th to 19th centuries. Its most defining feature is its grand horseshoe staircase, commissioned by Louis XIII (who was born in the palace) and built by Jean Androuet du Cerceau. The majority of the château’s current buildings were constructed in the 14th century under Francis I, whose architect Gilles de Breton created much of the Cour Ovale, the château’s oldest and most central courtyard.
Inside the château, numerous rooms hold historic and artistic significance. The longest room in the château, the Gallery of Diana, was turned into a library by Napoleon III and now holds approximately 16,000 volumes, many from the library of Napoleon I. Two sumptuous boudoirs of Marie Antoinette reveal the opulence of Fontainebleau; in keeping with the fascination of exoticism at the time, they contain numerous Turkish items and motifs. Several private rooms of Napoleon I are on view as well, including his official bedroom, while the Room of the Empress has been restored to how it would have looked when Josephine was a resident. A large collection of furniture, art pieces, costumes, and documents from the imperial family are displayed within the château’s Napoleon I museum. The Napoleon III Theatre, one of the finest examples of Second Empire theatres, has been recently restored and now hosts occasional shows.
Fontainebleau, with its combination of Italian and French artistic styles, is considered by many to be the birthplace of the Renaissance within France. Much of the palace reflects the Italian Mannerist style, popular during the later years of the Renaissance and now widely known as the “Fontainebleau style.” The palace’s Gallery of Francis I, which is dominated by Florentine artist Rosso Fiorentino’s series of frescoes, was the first large decorated gallery to be created in France. Other Renaissance painters who contributed to the art at Fontainebleau include Francesco Primaticcio and Benvenuto Cellini; the latter’s Nymph of Fontainebleau is now housed at the Louvre.
Beyond the palace’s rooms are Fontainebleau’s grounds, which contain four courtyards, three main gardens and span over 130 hectares. Of the gardens, the Grand Parterre is the largest formal garden in Europe and was Louis XIV’s most significant addition to Fontainebleau. The Cour d’Honneur, now often known as the Cour des Adieux, is the courtyard in which Napoleon gave his farewell speech to his soldiers. In addition, the grounds include a canal, manicured French and English-style gardens, an orange grove, and numerous fountains and statues.
Today, Fontainebleau is home to the Écoles d’Art Américaines, an American school that teaches architecture, art, and music. The remains of the vast royal hunting grounds, now known as the Forest of Fontainebleau, continue to surround the château and are home to numerous rare plant and animal species. The forest is also famed for its rock climbing opportunities. Alpine climbers have used the surrounding boulders to train for mountain climbing since the 19th century, and today the area is one of the largest and most famous bouldering sites in the world.
With its long line of royal residents, its importance to Napoleon, and its numerous works of art, Fontainebleau offers one of France’s best opportunities to see a palace heavy on history and beauty, but light on crowds and commercialism.
Fontainebleau Vaux le Vicomte Full Day Private Guided Tour from Paris
If You Go:
The Palace of Fontainebleau is located approximately 55 kilometers southeast of Paris. To travel by rail from the main line of Gare de Lyon, take a train for Montargis Sens, Montereau or Laroche-Migennes, alighting at the Fontainebleau-Avon stop. From there, the “Ligne A” bus runs regularly to the palace; alight at the “Château” stop.
The château itself is open every day except for Tuesdays, 1 January, 1 May, and 25 December. The palace’s official website provides a wealth of information for planning visits.
Christine is an explorer, scientist, and writer. She has lived in the United States, Europe, and Central America and is currently pursuing a graduate degree. When not studying, she enjoys traveling, particularly to off-the-map locales.
All photos by Christine Sarikas.
It was the second week of December and I sat on the train from Munich to Salzburg with the intention to visit the Austrian Christmas market and to do some shopping. The sky was blue, snowflakes were falling softly, dusting the dense pine forest on both sides of the line.
Actually, no sign was needed. I only had to follow the wafting scents of Gluehwein and Bratwurst and the sounds of Bavarian horns and German Christmas carols to find the market.
I got lucky insofar as I was the only visitor, the majority of people were enjoying the market and its delights, something which I reserved for later. The lady who sold me the ticket and acted as curator was so pleased to have something other to do other than sit at her desk, that she personally lead me around and told me story after story about the customs and traditions of this part of Bavaria.
The 16th century wardrobes, carved with the finest details, are called Chavari and were used to store a bride’s trousseau. One such chavari is kept in the museum and filled with traditional clothing as well as examples of another art: gold embroidery. Bridal headgear and lace is made from real gold thread, an art which my friendly guide herself is skilled in, as proven by a growing strip of gold lace which she was working on whilst waiting for visitors.
Plenty of visitors were around, but it felt rather like a huge family. Everybody seemed to know everybody else and as soon as they noticed that I wasn’t ‘einheimisch’, they explained the specialties to me and directed me to the stalls with the Rauschgoldengel and other beautiful Christmas decorations.
Next was Dampfnudel, which literally translated means steam nudel but has nothing to do with pasta or steam. It’s a huge lump of sweet dough, covered with vanilla custard, whipped cream and chocolate sauce. I could never have managed one on my own, but my new best friends from Prien, standing next to me and putting the sweet away in incredible amounts, gave me a spoon and let me have a few mouthfuls.
About the author:
won Reader’s Favorite Award 2009 in its category in the USA in 2009. Her travel articles have been published in literary traveler, GoNomad, travel with a challenge, Smithsonian magazine, Europe up close, Europe a la carte, Lighthouse Digest, Off Beat Travel, and BBC/Travel. Her blog is called: 
Our appetite satisfied, we line the streets with the throng to watch a parade of marching bands and representatives from local organizations carrying flowers to the Inmaculada Church in the main town square for the traditional Floral Offering. Caught up in the excitement, we follow the parade to the square.
A large Christmas Belen, a Bethlehem Nativity scene, is set up in the main square. This amazing display depicts scenes from the life of Jesus including day to day life, local businesses and of course a wonderful nativity. The details are incredible, from a little girl on a swing to hens in the yard. The Belen is up until January 7 for everyone to enjoy at no cost. Every time I walk around the display I notice something new.
Just as we are about to call it a day, we stumble upon a parade of unique paper mache giants and big heads outside the Casino. Delighted adults and children of all ages follow along. Monday is a holiday, Dia de la Inmaculada Concepcion, beginning with an early morning parade and ending with a solemn evening procession with the statue of the Inmaculada Concepion. The procession stops at the Casino for a fireworks display before returning back to the church. A perfect ending to a fabulous weekend of festivities to start the Christmas season.
In Spain, the most important date in the Christmas season is not December 25. It is January 6, Epiphany, the day Three Kings from the east brought gifts to the infant Jesus. Fiesta de Los Tres Reyes Magos (Three Kings Day) starts on January 5 when the Three Wise Men arrive and parade through the streets handing out candies to all the children eagerly waiting. The parade ends at a church where the kings become part of a human nativity scene. That night the children put out their shoes and in the morning, if they have been good all year, they find them filled with gifts from the Magi. They leave out treats for the kings and water for the camels. Like children in North America do for Santa Claus and his reindeer.
Along with their entourage, the kings participate in the traditional Epiphany parade that winds its way through the town. It is quite a spectacle with a variety of participants including Mary, Joseph, baby Jesus, Roman centurions, Egyptians, dancers, decorated riders, royal pages and a menagerie of animals. Excited children line the streets holding out bags for the many candies they receive from the participants in the parade, including the Three Kings. We enjoy the pageantry and spirit of the evening. Some of the children share their sweets with us.
, England and Alberta, where she always has an adventure. Darlene divides her time between the west coast of Canada and the Costa Blanca of Spain. Visit 
Before the meal can start, the Christopsomo, or ‘Christ-bread’ must be broken and offered round. There is a small ceremony, where the eldest member of the gathering places a towel on the head, with the bread on it, and a young child breaks it in half. It is put straight into a basket and offered round. This is the signal that two things can begin: the meal and the dancing. Greek folk dancing can be very energetic, and I was glad that I was prepared. As a visitor, I did not know all the steps, but the local people were happy to see me join in and very welcoming. Nobody minded the odd mis-step.
Santa Claus in Greece is known as Ai Vasilis,or St Basil, and he comes at the New Year. In Alexandroupolis, his coming is heralded on New Year’s Eve by a wonderful street pantomime involving two people dressed as a camel, complete with hump, and a third person who wears a strange sheepskin suit that tapers to an almost triangular point above the head. This is the camel driver, and he chases the camel around, mock threatening it with a stick, to great hilarity from the spectators. While this is going on, a group of people dressed in traditional costumes and with traditional instruments put on a display of folk dancing. The camel and companion go around the dancers, sometimes directly in their path, but somehow it all works out and no one falls over. Some years, Ai Vasilis will put in an appearance and march through the town, followed by the camel and driver as he leads them away at the end.
It became a key Protestant city-state during the Reformation in the mid-1500s, when French theologian John Calvin was the dominant figure. Geneva offered safe haven to Protestants persecuted in Catholic countries. French Huguenots, including prosperous professionals and craftsmen, poured in. Ursula points out medieval buildings with arched Gothic windows on the lower floors, but a simpler and contrasting style above. To make room for all the newcomers, Ursula tells us, extra stories were hastily added to many houses, hence the quirky architecture.
We come to a park on the grounds of the university fringed by a long, high rampart of stone. Formerly a section of the medieval city wall, this is now known as the Reformation Wall. Inaugurated in 1909 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of Calvin’s birth, it is the backdrop to ten giant statues of key Europeans from Reformation times, including Calvin himself. There is also the Scottish Presbyterian, John Knox, who sought refuge in Geneva when Mary Tudor (“Bloody Mary”) ascended the English throne and restored Roman Catholicism in Britain. Some of the figures, including Oliver Cromwell and Roger Williams, never set foot in Geneva itself. Born and raised in England, Williams studied theology, became a Puritan, and rejected the Church of England. He sailed to Boston a decade after the first Pilgrims arrived in Salem and shortly after the Massachussetts Bay colony was founded.
Ursula tells us how his ideas eventually had impact in the Old World as well, especially influencing the constitution of Geneva. During the era of Calvin, the city was entirely Protestant. No Catholic churches were allowed. But by 1847, times had changed. Geneva’s leading statesman, James Fazy, was drafting a new constitution. Years earlier, in Paris, Fazy had been friendly with the French General Lafayette, who had fought the British alongside George Washington and admired the American political system. Fazy incorporated many principles derived from the U.S. Constitution. Church and state were separated, and religious freedom guaranteed. Catholicism was again tolerated in Geneva. Protestantism lost its exclusive status.
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