A Journey from the Caves Of France to The Hills and Prairies Of Palouse
by Karin Leperi
Over 25,000 years ago, somewhere in the Pyrenees region of France, cave-dwelling men and women artistically painted graceful murals of spotted horses on cavern walls. Using materials such as wooden sticks and pigment from charcoal and iron oxide, they drew and colored flowing pictures of a variety of mammals, some of which are now extinct.
Now known as the Pech Merle cave, it is one of a handful of cave painting sites in France that are still open to the general public. Other cave paintings of spotted horses have been found in Lascaux, France and Altamira, Spain as well as many other places throughout Europe.
Mystery of the Pech Merle Spotted Horse
The prehistoric spotted horses of Pech Merle – white horses with dark spots – are sometimes referred to as “dappled horses” because of the spots or patches of color on the horses: They are very similar to the leopard pattern seen in Appaloosas today. It is characterized by a few white spotting patterns on the rump to horses that are almost completely white with pigmented oval spots known as ‘leopard spots.’ At first blush, the connection between early spotted horses and modern-day Appaloosas appears uncanny.
However, up until about a year ago, archaeologists and scientists were divided about what the spotted horse sketches actually represented and whether these spotted horses were related to the Appaloosa. Did the dappled horses represent mystical creatures conjured up during lucid dreaming? Were the cave paintings symbolic images with some religious significance or purpose for these ancient cave dwellers? Or were the spotted equine simply realistic drawings of man’s prehistoric environment?
Some researchers were adamant that a spotted coat phenotype from the Paleolithic period could not have existed; rather it could only have evolved through mutation over the centuries. After all, previous ancient DNA studies only supported the existence of bay and black horses. Why then the cave paintings of spotted horses?
A team of researchers from the UK, Germany, USA, Spain, Russia and Mexico set out to find the answer. By genotyping and analyzing coat color from ancient bone and teeth samples of 31 pre-domestic horses from Siberia, the Iberian Peninsula, and Eastern and Western Europe, they found that there was a shared gene present associated with leopard spotting. The conclusion: Spotted horses existed in Europe over 35,000 years ago.
Professor Michael Hofreiter, an evolutionary biologist from the University of York in England, noted: “While previous DNA studies have produced evidence for bay and black horses, our study has demonstrated that the leopard complex spotting phenotype was also already present in ancient horses and was accurately depicted by their human contemporaries nearly 25,000 years ago.”
Spotted Horse Through the Ages
Artwork also documents the fact that domesticated horses with leopard spotting patterns existed as far back as Ancient Greece, Persia, and the Han Dynasty in China to early modern period. By the 11th century, spotted horses were depicted in French art and in England they appeared in artwork by the 12th century. French paintings from the 16th and 17th centuries depict riding horses with spotted coats and spotted coach horses that were used by the French court of Louis XIV.
By the mid-18th century in Europe, European royalty and nobility clamored for “spotted horse” gene stock – that is, until it became common. Once that happened, the no-longer-fashionable spotted horses were readily surplused and shipped to the New World. Spanish conquistador and explorer Hernando Cortez was also known to bring a lone spotted horse with snowflake patterning to the New World. Others would follow.
The Nez Perce and the Appaloosa
By 1680, the year of the Pueblo Revolt in New Mexico, horses spread rapidly through the plains and prairies of North America, probably reaching the Northwest around 1700. And the Nez Perce tribe, long known for their dog-breeding skills, quickly adapted to the horse, harnessing it as an invaluable aide in hunting buffalo. Because of the horse’s speed, they were able to cover more territory in less time and thus extend the expanse of their hunting grounds. Life was good and meat became more plentiful as a result.
Soon they captured escaped spotted horses and cross-bred them with wild mustangs, producing a stunning white horse with leopard spots. Since the Nez Perce lived near the Palouse River, these horses were first known as the “A Palouse” which later became the Appaloosa. They continued to selectively breed the horse for speed, strength, stamina, agility and docility. Because of these traits along with the horse’s innate intelligence and beauty, the Appaloosa became highly prized throughout the high plateau country, creating great wealth for the Nez Perce. (It is estimated that about one in ten Nez Perce horses were spotted.)
Nez Perce War
Over the following years, Chief Joseph of the Nez Perce found that his tribal homelands were increasingly encroached upon by white settlers, despite signed treaty promises to the contrary. Rather than continue to fight against overwhelming odds, he mustered a band of his people consisting of several warriors, elders, and many women and children, embarking on a 3-month, 1,170 mile journey to sanctuary in Canada.
The hardy and spry Appaloosa horse helped his weary band evade the U.S. 7th Cavalry, but the toll was heavy in terms of human casualties. With many of his warriors dead and the rest of tribe cold and starving, Chief Joseph had no choice but to surrender to overwhelming force when he was only 40 miles from the Canadian border. The year was 1877. His famous words still resonate: “From where the sun now stands, I will fight no more forever.”
When Chief Joseph and his haggard followers gave up the fight, the cavalry rounded up more than 1,000 of the tribe’s horses, selling what they could and shooting the remainder. Some animals escaped and some were abandoned, with a significant population of horses having been left behind in the Wallowa Valley due to a hasty retreat. Perhaps fearing the indomitable qualities of the Appaloosa, a federal law remained on the books until 1935 that prohibited the breeding of Appaloosa to Appaloosa.
After the infamous slaughter of the Appaloosa, they unfortunately became a forgotten breed. That is, until 1937. Concerned about losing the genetic stock of the American Appaloosa forever, the Western Horseman ran an article on the Appaloosa, appealing to the public to preserve and improve the Appaloosa breed. By 1938, the Appaloosa Horse Club was chartered.
The Appaloosa Today
Nowadays, the Appaloosa horse breed is enjoying a resurgence in popularity and can often be seen exhibited at county fairs along with their young mounts. Besides being popular with young horse riders, Appaloosas are also used as working ranch horses and trail horses. The Appaloosa Horse Club, an international breed registry, has records of more than 635,000 Appaloosas and 33,000 members. The horses excel in many competitive events, including racing, jumping, dressage, reining roping gaming, pleasure and endurance.
By 1975, the Appaloosa was named the official state horse of Idaho in recognition of its integral part of Idaho history. In Florida, an Appaloosa serves as a mascot for the Florida State Seminoles. Finally, the Appaloosa bloodlines have influenced other breeds including the Pony of the Americas, the Nez Perce Horse, and several gaited breeds.
If You Go:
The Appaloosa Museum & Heritage Center in Moscow, Idaho is located on Highway 8, just over the border from Pullman, Washington. Established in 1975 in the heart of Palouse prairie lands and rolling hills, the Appaloosa Museum pays tribute to what was once the home of the Nez Perce Appaloosa.
Today, the non-profit museum is dedicated to collecting, preserving, studying, and exhibiting artifacts and data about the history of the Appaloosa horse and its region of origin.
It is also home to the Appaloosa Horse Club (ApHC), an organization that serves as the international breed registry for the Appaloosa “by recording and preserving the horses’ heritage and history.” The ApHC is dedicated to promoting, enhancing and improving the bloodline characteristics of the Appaloosa by focusing on preferred characteristics that include the coat pattern. The club actively supports competitive and non-competitive events. If visiting during the summer, be sure to see the outdoor Appaloosa exhibit that runs from mid-May to mid-October. Here you will find shade trees and picnic tables along with benches, perfect for admiring the two stately Appaloosas grazing nearby behind a fenced corral.
Hours are 11 a.m. – 4 p.m. Monday through Thursday and 10 a.m. – 4 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.) Admission is free though voluntary contributions are happily accepted. Suggested donation is $2.00 per person.
For more information, be sure to visit:
Appaloosa Museum
2720 W. Pullman Road
Moscow, Idaho 83843
Phone: 208-882-5578
Pech Merle cave leopard spotting by HTO, User:Kersti Nebelsiek / Public domain
PanneauDesChevaux(Détail) by Claude Valette / CC BY-SA
Photos 3-5 by Karin Leperi
About the author:
Karin Leperi is an award winning writer and photographer with bylines in over 75 publications that include print, broadcast, and internet media. A gypsy at heart who particularly enjoys bucket-list experiences, she has traveled to 80 countries and is still counting. Specialties include travel, culture, cuisine, nature, adventure and lifestyle. Her photo website is: www.travelprism.com.
The grasses were high, it was hot but not sunny, the huge domed sky blanketed with a thin layer of clouds. We were not beset by any pesky bugs like mosquitoes, but there was a fair share of crickets which seemed the only wildlife we could detect. The roads were lined with wire fences, and every now and then we would see a row of modern silos, which are metal and tubular rather than wooden like the classic grain elevators that are almost nearly extinct on the Canadian prairies. We came to a row of four which appeared to us to be very far away, but as we approached them, we found they were near and tiny. Our eyes had been fooled! The flatness of the land and the lack of any defined shadows had really played a number on our depth perception.
Drumheller is the heart of the Badlands and the dinosaur fossil capital of the world. Its main industry is dinosaurs and the town lets you know it. Look, there is Fred and Barney’s All You Can Eat Chinese and Western Buffet! Many businesses had fiberglass dinosaurs in front. The fire hall had one painted like a dalmatian, and another one had been painted all steampunk and metal. Well, no one knows what a dinosaur’s skin really looked like, do they? A lot of kids like dinosaurs so many of the town’s visitors were families with children. The downtown is small with no structures over two stories, with little cafes that serve grilled cheese sandwiches and chicken fingers and not very good coffee. We felt like no real living was done there, as if the town only existed so the children and their parents had some infrastructure to meet their needs after they were done looking at dinosaur bones.
In front of the Dinosaur Museum there was a T-Rex so large we could climb steps inside and six or seven people could gaze out of it’s mouth for a sweeping view of the town with the Badlands behind it.
The road to the Hoodoos, although along a river, was not verdant at all. The dry, golden road with its walls of striped history really did make us feel like we were in the wild west, heading for the canyons. We were prepared for Nature’s majesty! But upon arrival at these Hoodoos, we discovered them to be few and only four feet tall.
Our AAA paper map in hand, the GPS stored away safely in the glove box we set out starting with a short stretch of the I5 from Bellingham to Burlington. There we exited taking Hwy. 20, followed by a thirty minute ferry ride to Historic Port Townsend and continued south on the inland highway, yes there are two Highways numbered 101. At this point we make sure to take the road to Leland and along the Hood Canal.The route was clearly shown on the map which is important as between the towns of Shelton and Arctic Wash. the highway number changes no fewer then four times. A more enjoyable journey the road snakes through Washington State from Burlington to the Oregon border passing through small communities rather then blasting past blurred exit signs to distant places. While the inland 101 is for the most part two lanes with lots of curves and a long stretch of logged off forest that also took the brunt of the November 2007 wind storm, it is still a much more relaxing drive then the I5. Our drive home will be the same restful route.
It’s late August the afternoon of day one of our road trip. We’ve made good time as we pass Dismal Nitch and cross the Megler Bridge over the Columbia River on the border of Washington and Oregon. Through the fog and far below we can see a large sandbar and deteriorating pilings, remnants of canneries and a once vigorous fishing industry. Astoria is our first stop in part because it is the perfect days drive from the Canada/U.S. border and we can sleep under the bridge. Don’t worry we do have a hotel room.
The first permanent U.S. Pacific Coast settlement, Astoria was incorporated in 1876 by settlers attracted to the fur trade, fishing and canneries. The town’s future became shaky when those employers packed up and left town so Astoria reinvented itself as a tourist destination. Key to the town’s undertaking is the River Walk a five mile ribbon extending along the river and serving both as a pedestrian walk, a cycle path as well as a trolley route that runs adjacent to quaint cafes, small shops and working wharves.
Day two of our Oregon trip, it’s foggy and cool. Cannon Beach is a short drive south of Astoria on the 101 and is so named for a cannon that washed ashore from the U.S. Navy Schooner Shark in 1846. A touristy community, Cannon Beach is also more family oriented complete with beach bikes,horse back riding, sand castle contests, kids in I heart Cannon Beach hoodies, ice cream and gift shops. There’s motels, hotels, B&Bs and family style restaurants all within walking distance of the beach. We include it in our journey for the miles of sandy beach, the open ocean and Haystack Rock. Stopping just long enough to stretch our legs and let Islay have a run on the beach,we continue in our search for the sun. It’s on to Lincoln City.
South of Tillamook the 101 heads inland through farm country passing towns with names such as Beaver, Hebo, Oretown and Neskowin before it veers west again offering a peek-a-boo view of the Pacific Ocean. Smiles appear on our faces, the dog wakes from her nap with a shake seemingly aware that she is minutes away from chasing gulls on the beach while barking at the wind. After a day and a half on the road we are nearing our road trip’s southern destination, Lincoln City Oregon.
Lincoln City is an incorporation of several small communities, it’s name courtesy of a children’s naming contest. It’s economy dependent on tourism, retired folks and a casino. While it may not have the history or the character of some other coastal towns Lincoln City does have its own characters. Ken Morris is a trained chef, his persona and Humble Pie reminiscent of a sixties low budget movie and the home of possibly the best pizza on the Oregon Coast. Don’t get me started on his freshly baked chocolate éclairs.
To soon our week has ended but unwilling to rush home we stop again south of Cannon Beach. This is a much quieter area,the beaches more vast while the restaurants and shops are minutes away. Always open to new epicurean treats, on a recommendation from the lodge staff we try the Sweet Basil Café. The café is small, the décor is Louisiana rustic, the Chef’s leanings are Cajun.The food is local and delicious, it’s a gem in the state known for Red Bull Slushies, pancake dispensing machines and where size matters when it comes to meal portions.
The 10 minute ferry ride from Campbell River, which has been running since 1960, deposited us at the tail end of an armada of vehicles unloading at our destination; which proved ideal as it allowed us a leisurely drive and opportunity to gawk. That in turn gave us the opportunity to pull in for a coffee at the Cafe Aroma and drink in a little island atmosphere, replete with eclectic decor, local folks chatting, laid back pace and friendly servers. We garnered a coffee and discussed our touring route.
The hotel has been serving the island in one form or another since 1895 when Hosea Arminis Bull built the first incarnation. It lasted until a 1912 fire wiped the slate clean and it was rebuilt. Bull sold the place in 1926, two years after his wife had passed away and it remained in private hands until 2008 when it was purchased by the Community Custodial Concept Group with the stated desire of maintaining the edifice and service for the residents of Quadra and visitors. The stately lodge contains much of the old 1912 building but has been modified and expanded over the years. It gazes out over the bay and to the distant coast mountains beyond; enfolded in its gardens and lawn complete with a giant sized and manned chess board.
Our server at the pub suggested a trip to Rebecca Spit Provincial Park for a great look-back perspective. So informed we found and took the gravel roadway onto the thin two kilometre spit of land and found ourselves the chance to explore beach and trail; offering panoramas on either side of the spit. Driftwood and sea-lost logs were strewn about the seaward shoreline, like pick-up sticks, whilst the opposite shore hid the protected inner anchorage of Drew Harbour. A defined trail led through the trees running the spine of the spit and chanced us an opportunity to meet and chat with a local dog and his valet. None of us hurried in such a setting we chatted for a considerable while before returning to our respective treks.
Putting aside our camera, as no photos are allowed in the building, we paid our admission of $10 per adult and began the experience. Cultural artifacts seemingly incorporating every conceivable aspect of the surrounding natural environment filled glass enclosures with captions telling of their story, purpose and people associated with them. Stories of the great potlatches, their purpose, nature and persecution by non Natives and eventual rebirth spelled out. We learned how the ceremonial treasures and regalia had been repatriated from museums and galleries throughout North America and a new home built for them overlooking the waters of their home, opening in February 1979. The present day centre was re-opened in May 2007. It is recommended you allow at least 45 minutes to make your way through this stunning collection and display of First Nations’ culture and artistic skill.
Severe weather, jagged shorelines and increasing shipping traffic led to the construction of Door’s first lighthouse in 1836. Pottawatomie Lighthouse was built high on the dolomite bluffs above Lake Michigan on Rock Island. The lighthouse was named after the Native Americans living in the area; it means ‘keepers of the fire.’
William Jackson became the first keeper on Cana Island in November 3, 1869. His wife Caroline was the assistant keeper. William was paid $600/year for his work; Caroline received $400. These wages would remain the same for all keepers and their assistants for the next 30 years. William and Caroline left their positions in 1872.
The one and a half storey keeper’s house was set up as a duplex – with the keeper and his family living on the first floor and his assistant and family on the second. In 1945, the light was automated and the last keeper left the island.
Volunteers spend a week at a time living (and working) in the restored lighthouse. They guide visitors through the building in addition to keeping the building spotlessly clean. The lantern room was removed in 1988 and the light now shines from a tall steel frame set away from the house. A replica lantern room is now open in the lighthouse and visitors can scramble up the steep wooden steps for view.
Walter Duclon’s guitar and his mother’s piano can be seen in the lighthouse today – refurbished by the Door County Historical Society to include a few of the Duclon family heirlooms. The walls are now whitewashed instead of the traditional layers of green or grey paint, but otherwise the restoration has taken the building back to what it looked like in the early 1900s.
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