Europe Travel - Part 33

A Corner Of A Forgotten Field

Arras, France

by Anne Harrison

On the 8th September 1916, my great-uncle died from wounds suffered during the Battle of the Somme. Second Lieutenant Henry Byron, 1st/5th Battalion, South Lancashire Regiment, was twenty-two. His brother – my grandfather – enlisted at the age of fourteen, had a kidney shot out in Ypres, contracted TB while convalescing, and was shipped home with six months to live. Deciding escape was the only way to survive the miasmas of war-time Liverpool, he worked his way to Australia, jumped shipped in Perth, and died at the age of ninety two. He could never bring himself to return to France and visit his beloved brother’s grave.

In contrast to the American Army, which built large cemeteries for their war dead, the Commonwealth Forces tried to bury their soldiers near where they fell. Consequently, this area of France is dotted with cemeteries. Uncle Harry rests in Dartmoor Cemetery, Becordel-Becourt, not far from Arras.

The landscape here is flat, and has been farmed – and fought over – for centuries. Tilled land spreads in all directions, dotted by the occasional stone farmhouse, a church spire, a copse of trees. Shrapnel from the war still surfaces each season as the fields are farmed. The heavy soil stuck to my shoes, and all too easily turns to mud. A confusion of back roads loop and intersect through small villages, where horse-drawn carts are still in use.

Arras is a medieval town of cobbled streets and limestone tunnels. From the end of 1914 until early 1918, the Western Front (which stretched from Belgium to the Mediterranean) was never more than three kilometres away, and the town itself was occupied and nearly destroyed. Much of the town was rebuilt in traditional style, and Arras is now World Heritage Listed by UNESCO.

Since medieval times, the main square – Le Place des Héros – has been home to a market, and now every Saturday stalls of meats, poultry, cheeses, fruits de mer and all manner of fresh produce spill over the cobbled stones and into the surrounding streets. Le Place des Héros is dominated by the gothic Hôtel de Ville. For anyone brave enough to climb the Belfry and face the bleak winds, the entire countryside is on display, and on a clear day Paris is visible. Not surprisingly, this was used by both civilians and the military for viewing the progress of the war.

Beneath the Hôtel de Ville is an entrance to the Boves, or medieval tunnels. The origin of the name is uncertain; however, from the 10th century limestone was quarried here, until the practice was moved outside the city amidst fears the town would collapse. The tunnels run along five different levels, at times up to twenty meters deep. Most of the buildings on Le Place des Héros have their own entrance, now used mainly as cellars or for storage (and an exquisite restaurant, La Faisanderie, perfect after a day touring the battlefields).

Despite the cold and damp – the tunnels remain at a constant 11º C, with 80% humidity and no sunlight – people lived here in medieval times. In WWI, New Zealand Royal Engineers (complete with canaries in cages) extended the tunnels so troops could move in secrecy to emerge near the German front line. Up to 24,000 men could be concealed, and the remnants of electrical lighting, makeshift kitchens and even latrines are still visible. Tunnels were divided into those for foot traffic, hand-drawn trolleys and a light rail system. Casualties were moved with relative safety, and a field hospital (complete with operating theatre) was established underground.

After a few hours spent touring the battlefields, the number of lives lost becomes mind numbing. (An organized tour helps give some structure to the mayhem of the First World War.) The Battle of the Somme commenced on the 1st July 1916. On the first day, some 20,000 men died; this figure does not include those, like Uncle Harry, who were to later succumb to their wounds. By this stage of the war, some generals on both sides had come to accept a loss of 1:1 as a good result. Reflecting this, the Franco-British Thiepval Monument is simply huge, largely to accommodate the names of the 73,367 British soldiers with no known grave. The country of Newfoundland never recovered from the loss of men, leading to its absorption by Canada in the 1920s.

In an attempt to break the ongoing stalemate of the war, in March 1918 the Germans launched another offensive to capture Amiens (which, being near the sea, was vital for supplies). As a consequence, the small town of Villers-Bretonneux was captured in the world’s first battle between two tanks forces: British Mark IVs against the German A7Vs. After a house-to-house battle, Australian soldiers liberated the village on 24th April 1918, at a loss of some 1200 Australians. Amiens was never captured, and the German front line began to recede, leading to the Armistice of 1918. Many historians see the liberation of Villers-Bretonneux as a turning point of WWI.

Although nearly a century has passed, pictures of kangaroos and slouched hats fill the town, and there is even a Restaurant le Kangarou. The main road is Rue de Melbourne, and the Australian flag flies atop the Australian National Memorial, which lists the 10,982 Australian soldiers with no known grave. ANZAC Day is celebrated here every year. The first floor of the school (a gift in the 1920’s from the school children of Victoria to the children of the town) houses the Franco-Australia Museum. Above every blackboard are the words N’oublions jamais l’Australie – Never forget Australia.

The Canadian National Vimy Memorial encompasses a 250 acre battlefield park, which includes the area of the Battle of Vimy Ridge (9th April, 1917). Both Allied and German trenches have been preserved, and it is still possible to walk along them. The trenches never ran in a straight line, and had alcoves at regular intervals for shelter from bombs and snipers. Some barbed-wire stakes remain; earlier ones with only one hole, and a later design which could hold three stands of barbed wire. These also had the advantage of having a screw on the base, allowing them to be silently screwed into the heavy soil, and not hammered.

Uncle Harry’s grave is in a corner of the small Dartmoor Cemetery, which began as Becordel-Becourt Military Cemetery in 1915. It has only 768 (762 identified) WWI Commonwealth burials. In September 1916, the XV Corps Main Dressing Station was established nearby, and it is here Uncle Harry died. Surrounded by fields, Dartmoor Cemetery is now a peaceful spot, overlooked by most tourists, for there are so many cemeteries, and so many memorials to the War To End All Wars.

Full-Day Canadian WW1 Somme Battlefield Tour from Arras

If You Go:

♦ www.ot-arras.fr – Official Arras Tourism website (in French)
♦ www.arras.fr – Another website with an English option, but not as detailed
♦ www.westernfronttours.com.au – A web search brings up many companies which run WWI / WWII battle tours. Most are British. Based in Arras, Western Front Tours is run by an Australian who has an extensive knowledge of WWI, and happily modified our tour (of only four persons) to include a visit to Uncle Harry’s gravesite.
♦ www.awm.gov.au – Official site of The Australian War Memorial, with a database for searching for overseas graves
♦ www.restaurant-la-faisanderie.com – If in Arras, try this restaurant. Simply superb.

Small-Group Day Trip to Arras and Vimy Ridge WW1 Battlefields from Paris

About the author:
Anne Harrison lives with her husband, two children and numerous pets on the Central Coast, NSW. Her jobs include wife, mother, doctor, farmer and local witch doctor – covering anything from delivering alpacas to treating kids who have fallen head first into the washing machine. Her fiction has been published in Australian literary magazines, and has been placed in regional literary competitions. Her non-fiction has been published in medical and travel journals. Her ambition is to be 80 and happy. Her writings are available at anneharrison.com.au and anneharrison.hubpages.com

Photos credits:
Arras street by Peter H from Pixabay
All other photos by Anne Harrison:
Many WWI trenches remain today
Tunnels in the Boves
Uncle Harry’s grave

Le Vieus Paris – Walking The Île de la Cité

Paris, France

by Anne Harrison

Where else to begin exploring Paris, but where the city began? Walking through the Île de la Cité covers some 4000 years of civilisation, from when the first Gauls settled here to those living statues who now pose outside Notre-Dame for tourists.

Paris began her life on a boat-shaped island in the middle of the Seine. The city’s coat of arms proudly displays a boat tossed by the waves, above the motto fluctuat nec mergitu: she is tossed by the waves but does not sink. By the 3rd century BCE, the Parisii tribe had established a fortified settlement on what was to become the Île de la Cité, although other Celtic tribes had lived here from at least 2000 BCE. (Canoes dating back to almost 4000 BCE have been found on the banks the Seine.)

The Parisii chose well: a temperate valley of fertile lands, with a river not only full of fish but perfect for trading from the Adriatic to the Mediterranean. Beneath the surrounding hills lay stores of lime and gypsum – now known as plaster of Paris – later used to build La Ville Lumičre. So strategic a site, in fact, Julius Caesar invaded in 52 BCE, establishing a major Roman town – Lutetia (Lutčce) – which flourished until the Barbarian invasions.

Le Crypte du Parvis de Notre-Dame stretches for some 120m beneath the Parvis de Notre-Dame (un parvis being a square outside a church). In 1965 work on a planned car-park uncovered archaeological finds dating not only from Roman times but back to the island’s first inhabitants. On view are Galleo-Roman ramparts and streets, rooms with an underground heating system called hypocaust, cellars, and remnants of the original Parisii wall.

Emerge from the crypt, and the buttresses of Notre-Dame soar to the sky. This area had long been sacred; the Romans built a temple to Jupiter here (perhaps replacing a site of worship used by the Parisii), which in turn was replaced around 528 CE by the first Notre-Dame (built with stones from the Roman arena on the Left Bank).

The Salian Franks invaded from Germany in the 400s, founding the first Frankish kingdom under Clovis in 466 CE. In 506 CE Clovis made Paris her capital, moving the royal court to the Île de la Cité (as it then became known). With the Royal Court remaining here until the 14th C, the island became the seat of royal and ecclesiastical power in Paris.

In 1163 Maurice de Sully, Bishop of Paris, began plans to replace Notre-Dame and St-Etienne with a large church suitable for the city’s growing population. Taking some 200 years to complete, and partly destroyed during the French Revolution, the cathedral remains a breath-taking wonder. Take time to climb her towers: the reward is not only an amazing view of Paris, but also coming face to face with the cathedral’s famous gargoyles.

At 1 Parvis Notre-Dame stands the Hôtel-Hospitel Dieu. The first hospital in Paris, it was founded by Saint Landry in 651 CE, and still cares for ill Parisians. The ghosts of some 1300 years of medical history glide the marble corridors, whispering in consultation outside the wards before passing into the old-fashioned lifts to visit the fourteen quiet hotel rooms hidden on the sixth floor.

Victor Hugo brought the slums surrounding the Hôtel-Hospitel Dieu vividly to life in The Hunchback of Notre Dame, including Le Rue des Marmousets, one of the narrowest and darkest streets on the island. Until the 19th C, Notre-Dame was largely obscured by a maze of mediaeval streets and buildings.

Under a burgeoning population the Île de la Cité had become a place where ‘plants shrivel and perish, and where, of seven small infants, four die during the course of the year’. (Victor Considerant, 1845). Diseases such as cholera proved epidemic. Authorities viewed the island as a cradle of discontent and revolution, where narrow streets were easily barricaded by paving stones – with the widest street measuring only 5m, the army had difficulty dislodging rioters.

As a consequence, in the latter half of 19th C Napoleon III directed Baron Hausmann to renovate Paris. In redesigning the island Hausmann swept away alleys and homes, beggars and brothels, churches, cabarets, markets – and much of the island’s character. Coloured stones in the Parvis du Notre-Dame mark the outline of part of this mediaeval area plus its main thoroughfare, Le Rue de Neuve Notre-Dame. Nearby, a circular plaque marks kilomčtre zéro, from which all distances in Paris have been measured since 1768.

From here, wander down Le Rue d’Arcole. This eastern end of the island was once a city within a city, a maze of streets under the control of the Cloister of Notre-Dame. This is all that remains of a once bustling mediaeval heart, where the likes of Abélard studied and taught. Some mediaeval maisons remain, as do narrow streets such as Le Rue de la Colombe, which dates from the 13th C. Traces of the Gallo-Roman wall are outlined in paving stones on the street, and No. 4 boasts a door reputedly from the 13th C tavern which occupied the site.

On the nearby Rue Chanoinesse, a 14th C baker was renown for his pâtés – until it was discovered they were made from murdered foreign students. Both No. 22 and 24 are 16th C gabled canonical houses, while at No. 26 the entry is paved with tombstones. No.10 is reputed to be the house of Héloďse’s uncle, where she and Abélard fell in love.

Revolutionary Paris lies in the opposite direction. Le Rue de Lutčce, (taking its name from the original Roman settlement), leads from Hôtel-Hospitel Dieu to Le Boulevard du Palais. At its start, to the right lies the flower market, one of the few remaining in Paris. On Sundays it transforms into a bird-market, filling the streets with birdsong.

At No. 10 Boulevard du Palais is Le Cour du Mai. Crowds gathered here during The Revolution to watch condemned cross the courtyard from the adjacent Conciergerie to carts waiting to take them to the guillotine at La Place de la Révolution.

A short stroll but an ethereal world away is the Sainte-Chapelle. Often called “The Gateway To Heaven,” it was built by Louis IX between 1246-48 to house a piece of the True Cross and the Crown of Thorns. The upper chapel is considered one of the highest achievements of Gothic art. Many of the windows date from the 13th C, depicting Biblical scenes beginning with Adam and Eve and ending with the Apocalypse of the great Rose Window.

Pass back along Le Boulevard du Palais to Le Quai de l’Horioge. Le Conciergerie was built as an extension of the Capertian palace in the 14th C. The prisons held the likes of Marie Antoinette during The Revolution (her ghost has been seen both here and at Versaille); of the 4,164 ‘enemies of the people’ who passed through the Conciergerie during the Reign of Terror, more than half were guillotined.

At the end of Le Quai de l’Horloge stand the Tour de César, Tour d’Argent, Tour de l’Horloge and the Tour de Bonbecis, all built between 1250 and 1300 as part of the now vanished Capetian palace. On the Tour de l’Horloge is Paris’ first clock, built in 1371. Along with parts of the Conciergerie, these towers and Saint Chapelle are all of this area to escape Hausmann.

Where Le Rue de l’Horloge reaches Le Pont Neuf is La Place Dauphine. Made by joining two small islands to the Île de la Cité, it was designed by Henri IV as a discreet meeting place for bankers and merchants. Even today it brings a touch of the countryside into Paris. It opens onto the Pont Neuf, the oldest bridge in Paris. (It is actually two bridges.) The first stone bridge in Paris not lined by houses, the Pont Neuf was once a lively place where Parisians did their banking, were entertained by street performers, and could even have their teeth pulled. Reputedly, at any hour of the day, one would pass here a monk, a loose woman, and a white horse.

Beyond the Pont Neuf is Le Square du Vert-Galant, (the nickname of the amorous Henri IV). The square actually lies at the original level of the Île de la Cité during the Gallo-Roman period, some 7m lower then Le Parvis du Notre-Dame. A picnic spot for many Parisians, it is a perfect place to rest before exploring more of Paris.

Private Car Service in Paris with Driver

If You Go:
Historic Paris Site

Literary Paris: Private Book Lovers’ Tour

Photo credits:
Notre Dame gargoyle by Jawed Karim / CC BY-SA
Notre-Dame buttresses by Eutouring / CC BY-SA
All other photos by Anne Harrison:
The colours of a hidden grocer
The courtyard of the Hôtel-Hospitel Dieu
Statue of Charlemagne, Île de la Cité
The towers of the Conciergerien
The imposing Palais du Justice
Le Square du Vert-Galant

Significant Monuments Celebrating Icelandic Past

by William Taylor

Iceland is a land where natural wonders meet a rich cultural heritage, and its monuments stand as tributes to a tumultuous and fascinating past. From Viking explorers to modern political milestones, these landmarks reflect the country’s journey through time. While Iceland’s breathtaking landscapes often steal the show, its historical and cultural monuments offer an equally compelling narrative. To maximize your enjoyment, exploring Iceland by rental car is a good way to see and do as much as possible within a short span of time.

Leifur Eiríksson Statue

Situated outside the iconic Hallgrímskirkja in Reykjavik, the Leifur Eiríksson statue is one of Iceland’s most important national monuments. Depicting the famed Viking explorer who is believed to have discovered North America long before Columbus, the statue was a gift from the United States in 1930 to commemorate the 1,000th anniversary of Iceland’s parliament. This monument not only honors Leifur’s adventurous spirit but also symbolizes the deep-rooted connections between Iceland and Viking heritage, offering a poignant reminder of the island’s pioneering past.

Hallgrímskirkja

Towering above Reykjavik, Hallgrímskirkja [photo at top] is one of Iceland’s most recognizable landmarks. Named after the 17th-century clergyman and poet Hallgrímur Pétursson, the church is a stunning example of how Icelandic architecture is often inspired by the country’s natural formations—its façade resembles the basalt columns that are scattered across the island. Completed in 1986 after 38 years of construction, Hallgrímskirkja serves not only as a place of worship but also as an observation tower, providing breathtaking panoramic views of the city. For both locals and visitors, the church is a symbol of Iceland’s resilience and its ability to blend the old with the new.

The Alþingi (Parliament House)

For those interested in Iceland’s political history, Alþingi, the Parliament House located in Reykjavik, is a must-see monument. It is one of the oldest parliamentary institutions in the world, having been established in 930 AD. Although the current building dates back to 1881, its significance as the seat of Icelandic democracy cannot be overstated. The Alþingi stands as a testament to Iceland’s enduring commitment to self-governance and is a crucial stop for anyone looking to understand the country’s historical path.

Höfði House

Another monument of great historical importance is Höfði House, located on the Reykjavik waterfront. It was here that the famous 1986 summit between U.S. President Ronald Reagan and Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev took place—a pivotal moment that contributed to the end of the Cold War. This modest building may not be as grand as Hallgrímskirkja, but its role in global history makes it a monument of international significance.

National Museum of Iceland

The National Museum of Iceland is the perfect place to delve deeper into the country’s history. Housing over 2,000 artifacts, including Viking relics, medieval engravings, and objects from Iceland’s conversion to Christianity, the museum presents a comprehensive look at the nation’s past. A permanent exhibition titled Making of a Nation guides visitors through the pivotal moments that shaped Iceland, from early settlements to the modern era. It’s a fascinating journey that reveals the depth of Iceland’s cultural and historical identity.

Sólfar (The Sun Voyager)

On Reykjavik’s waterfront stands Sólfar, or The Sun Voyager, one of the city’s most beloved sculptures. Created by artist Jón Gunnar Árnason, this stainless steel masterpiece is both a tribute to the sun and a representation of a dreamlike vessel, symbolizing hope, freedom, and the promise of discovery. Its sleek, modern design reflects Iceland’s forward-thinking ethos while also nodding to its Viking past, making it a perfect fusion of old and new.

Hólavallagarður Cemetery

Established in 1838, Hólavallagarður Cemetery is one of the most historically significant and peaceful locations in Reykjavik. Situated on the edge of Tjörnin Lake, this cemetery serves as the final resting place for many notable figures in Icelandic history, including poets, politicians, and other influential leaders. Beyond its role as a burial ground, Hólavallagarður is also known for its beautiful setting, with towering trees and lush greenery creating an almost park-like atmosphere. It offers visitors a moment of tranquility, while also providing insight into the lives of individuals who shaped Iceland’s development. The cemetery’s Victorian-era gravestones and monuments are themselves historical artifacts, making it a compelling stop for those interested in Iceland’s past.

The Reykjavík Cathedral (Dómkirkjan)

Located in the heart of Reykjavik, Dómkirkjan (The Reykjavík Cathedral) stands in Austurvöllur square, right next to the Alþingi (Parliament House). Although modest in size compared to Hallgrímskirkja, this cathedral has played a pivotal role in Iceland’s religious and political history. It has been the site of numerous significant events, including the declaration of Iceland’s independence from Denmark in 1944. Built in 1796, Dómkirkjan is an excellent example of Icelandic neoclassical architecture, with its clean lines and restrained design. Visitors can admire the church’s historical significance and attend services, which are still held regularly, offering a glimpse into the island’s ongoing religious traditions. The cathedral remains a vital monument, deeply intertwined with the country’s identity and statehood.

Iceland’s monuments offer a window into the country’s rich cultural and historical tapestry. From the Viking exploits commemorated by the Leifur Eiríksson statue to the modern symbolism of Sólfar, these landmarks provide a deep connection to Iceland’s past and its enduring spirit of exploration. Whether you’re wandering the streets of Reykjavik or venturing into the countryside, these monuments are integral to understanding Iceland’s unique place in the world. For a comprehensive experience, consider renting a car to explore these iconic sites at your own pace.

Dyrhólaey

One of the most recognizable natural formations on Iceland’s south coast is a massive rocky plateau with a colossal sea arch made of stone. The formation is located at Dyrhólaey, and it rises majestically from circling plain of Vik, right where Route 218 ends. The outcrop is an all-natural reserve that’s full of various bird species, including puffins. The archway can also be admired from Reynisfjara shore, one of Iceland’s most iconic black pebble beach locations.

The Great Geyser

The Great Geyser is a natural spot in Iceland positioned on the south western coast. It became active almost 10,000 years ago and it is a fabulous attraction to look at. The boiling water reaches over 70 m in the air, which is truly fascinating. The island’s geysers are a fundamental part of its past. They’re triggered by the surfacing water, which, upon reaching a boiling point spout with steam, thus transforming into a natural phenomenon worth admiring from up close.

Iceland is a wonderful travel destination, superb from all perspectives. The natural wonders, the cultural attractions, and ultimately the people, make it an ideal destination for a relaxing holiday. Know more about its extraordinary past and history by admiring its landmarks, and come meet its welcoming people! Its Viking-inspired edifices blend smoothly with the modern buildings, thus transforming the whole country into a multi-cultural place that will leave you speechless.

If You Go:

Iceland Tours
Iceland Travel Guide
World Travel Guide Iceland

About the author:
William Taylor is a travelling freak who has travelled many destinations around the world. He also loves writing about his traveling experiences and the places he has explored. He writes for www.baltictravelcompany.com which is a specialist in Baltic holidays, Eastern Europe, Scandinavia and the Nordics.

Photo credits:
Hallgrímskirkja church and statue by joaosilvaferreira via (CC BY 2.0)
Alþingishúsið: APK, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
National Museum of Iceland: Szilas, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Dómkirkjan í Reykjavík: APK, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

France: Le Grau Du Roi

by Glen Cowley

It was one of those storms of which legends were made; a wrathful sea god reshaping the Mediterranean coastline of France. The fury of 1570 carved out a new six kilometre long canal, between the salt water marshes and the sea; giving France a new access route to the Mediterranean. 1640 saw the town that grew upon its shores named Grau du Roi. In 1772 two stone breakwaters were constructed and in 1845 the natural canal was reinforced in stone. And so it remains.

Since its birth fishing and transport have given it purpose and do so to this day, but it was to be the extension of the Nimes-Aigues Morte Railway to the town in 1909 which opened it up for tourism as a major economic driver. The president of France himself declared Grau du Roi a beach resort town in 1924.

German occupation and beach fortifications during World War Two set tourism back and many residents fled the community but at the war’s end tourism returned with a flourish. Beaches which had seen hoards of sunbathers give way to barb wire and minefields were reborn. The Sun returned with a flourish to shine all the more brilliantly on these favoured shores.

Today its beaches, quais, shops and cafes lend it a happy party atmosphere. It is a place to come to swim, soak up Sun, enjoy cafe’s and restaurants in a seaside environment and shop for inexpensive wares. Arriving by car, train or bus lands you within walking distance of beaches and the old town core running either side of Chenal Maritime, itself thrust deep into the Mediterranean and marked, sea side, with facing lighthouses.

Quai Charles de Gaulle and Quai Colbert occupy either side of the canal and offer a host of cafes and restaurants facing upon a canal full of moored craft of all sorts from recreational through to commercial fishing boats. Water traffic is constant and colourful. In fact colour is inescapable and enhanced under a smiling Mediterranean Sun.

After arrival by bus from Nimes (only 1.50 Euro, one-way) and a short walk to the canal we stopped for a coffee at the open air Cafe Paris with its high ceilinged lounge adorned with posters and plaques, open to the passing throngs. Slowly savouring our cafe a l’onge we watched the parade of visitors and locals, a lightness filling the air. Our quai-side walk later took us by the hotel Belle-Vue-d’Angleterre, once favoured by Ernest Hemingway during his stay here (his posthumously published The Garden of Eden was set in Grau-du-Roi), and stretched on to breakwater end with its lighthouse and Mediterranean vista. There we spied a fishing boat plying methodically toward land harried by masses of squawking seagulls. Our journey was a corridor of shops to the left, boats and open air cafes to the right and Sun above.

Where the canal meets the sea either shore stretches long and sandy to the left and right with Plage de Riv Gauche and Plage de Riv Droite. Shallow beaches afford a vast playground for waders and swimmers with ample shore space for sunbathers. Families, knots of chattering teenagers, a few topless strollers and more share the beach with hawkers advertising cool treats as they work their cumbersome wheeled kiosks across the beach. Sun screen and water socks are a good investment and more than a few bathers were spotted doing the hot sand dance across the beach.

Far to the east and west of old Grau-du-Roi, with its heritage remembrances, rise the modern developments, both residential and maritime, of Les Grand Mottes and the Camargue Marina.

The tourist information centre is located close to the beach on Rue de l’Anciene Poste off of Boulevard de Marechal Juin which runs along Plage de Riv Gauche. Well worth the visit to pick up brochures and the touring map.

Grau-du-Roi aims to keep its visitors occupied and entertained and to that end is awash with things to see and do. Add to Sun and beach the Seaquarium at Le Palais de la Mer, a healthy beach walk or short town bus trip from the town centre and the arena, home of the unique Camargue Races (a man/bull contest in which both survive to star another day).

Biking and hiking trails lead out from town alongside the salt water marshes where you are certain to spy flamingoes (flamant rose), stoically posed, and fishers patiently testing the waters with super long fishing poles.

Restaurants abound and we took in a pleasing meal at reasonable fare at a seasonal outdoor restaurant colonizing, with others, a tree shaded enclave; serenaded by by a chanteuse and her accompanying accordion player. The coolness of welcome shade, music and a fine meal reinforced the aura of southern France by the Mediterranean. Walk weary feet drank in comfort.

Returning to the narrow but tidy streets crowded with shops touting their colourful wares from confined spaces we meandered, as much taken by the buzz and colour as by products. Unabashed tourism assails the senses and with it a sense of light frivolity; this is a place exuding fun for everyone from individuals to families.

The other, workaday, side of town is revealed in the docks and moorings of craft toiling at sea with care taken towards functionality rather than appearance. Even so there is an aura about this long lasted foundation of the local economy. A business indifferently sharing waters and canal with recreational craft of varying opulence. Crossing Pont Tournant we stopped to watch an 8 man dory, six oars pushing water, making its way inland; its chanting rowers, ladies all, moving as one.

When our feet tired of pavement we took them to the waters, wading seemingly forever along the beach. Behind us Grau du Roi spread its arms merging in the distance with modern towers and marinas yet holding its own. The waterfront playground of Nimes and Montpelier.

Small-Group Tour Camargue 4×4 Safari from Le Grau-du Roi

If You Go:

You can readily drive here and there is parking relatively close to the beaches but train and bus are so inexpensive it is hard ignore. Subsidized rates of 1.50 Euro will take you by bus or train from the Nimes train station to the town’s heart and, for the same price, whizz you back. You can spend a day at the beach and still use Nimes or Montpelier for meals and lodgings or savour the same at Grau du Roi.

A great general site is the tourism Camargue webpage.

For transportation take a look at www.voyage-sncf.com (trains) and www.edgard-transport.fr for bus.

About the author:
Since 1994 Glen Cowley has parlayed his interest in sports, travel and history into both books and articles. He continues to explore perspectives in time and place wherever his travels take him. From the varied landscapes of British Columbia to Eastern Canada and the USA, the British Isles, Germany, Switzerland, the Netherlands, Greece and France he has found ample fodder for features.

All photos are by Glen Cowley.

The Thracians and the Mountains of Orpheus

Bulgaria

by Enzo Sardellaro

Bulgaria remains for me a mysterious country, mainly for the charm of its ancient history, where the enigmatic Thracians played a very important and significant role. Since antiquity its strategic geographical location was a natural bridge between Eastern and Western Europe. Bulgaria is a small country with a community of scarcely seven million people living within a territory that is neither too small nor too large. But if its territory is small, its history is very great.

The Greeks and the Romans have left an indelible stain upon the national character and culture of Bulgaria. Many people, different languages and cultures have crossed this territory, nowadays dotted with churches, monasteries and ancient ruins that testify to the rich history of this country. Bulgaria is a real cocktail of mountains, forests, fertile plains, rivers, lakes and hidden valleys where typical villages and ancient monasteries lie hidden within the beauty of the country landscape. The modern seaside resorts and beaches on the Black Sea display a great effect on me as nature lover who appreciates both the comfort and the natural beauty of this country.

As a history lover, I found several sites of interest, with their unique archaeological heritage. The country is rich in ancient relics, from Neolithic Age to Greek, Roman and Medieval times, the symbol of the ancient grandeur of one of the most well-documented people of antiquity, the Thracians, recognized as one of the most powerful people in the Ancient World. All cities have their own museum with Thracian, Hellenic and Roman treasures of amazing quality and interest, irrespective of many Orthodox churches and monasteries. It is difficult to leave Bulgaria without being held spellbound by its beautiful view.

The Thracians were an Indo-European people living since Paleolithic in Thrace, a region of indefinite boundaries of the Balkan Peninsula, bounded by the Black Sea and the Aegean Sea, the mountainous region of Sakar, Strandja and the mountain barrier of the Rhodopes. The eastern portion of this area corresponds to European Turkey, while the western area belongs to Bulgaria. In the 6th century BC the Thracians were subdued by the Persians, and then by the Athenians, the Macedonians and finally by the Romans during the 1st century BC.

The Thracians were considered both skilled horsemen and excellent warriors, but they also developed a high level of civilization. They were organized under chiefs or kings as a military aristocracy. The Thracians conquered Bulgaria and settled permanently in it. Several impressive artifacts of the Thracian civilization were found in many archaeological sites of Bulgaria, considered worthy of the tourist gaze. There are a lot of significant Thracian monuments and shrines in the ancient heart of Bulgaria, where the Thracians left us their rich historical and cultural heritage.

Many Bulgarian towns still bear important traces of their Thracian past, such as Kazanlak. Archaeological excavations carried out near Kazanlak, in the famous area of the Rose Valley, discovered substantial remains of tombs, shrines, and other important remnants of Thracian culture. The Odriss Kingdom of the Thraces had its splendid capital at Sevtopolis, ruled by King Sevt III [also known as Seuth], which was submerged and then discovered between the modern Kazanlak and the village of Koprinka. The tomb of King Seuth III was found within the Golyama Kosmatka Mound, near Kazanlak, and it contained a vast treasure including paintings, ornaments, one golden crown, one golden mask and the statue head of the same King Seuth III.

Ludogorie, the region of northeastern Bulgaria, is an area where there is the splendid archaeological site at Sboryanovo, filled with shrines, necropolis and monuments of incredible magnificence and splendor, such as the Sveshtary tomb [first half of the third century BC], with floral decorations which are interpreted as a symbol of fertility . The Sboryanovo reservation is also well-known for its enchanting landscape. Among other things, I visited the Starosel Thracian Tomb, near the village of Starosel, where ancient Orphic rites were practiced by the Thracians in memory of the mythic poet and singer Orpheus. At the time of the Thracians, the Rhodope Mountains were also known as the “Mountains of Orpheus,” where, according to the tradition, Orpheus lived, the most ancient poet of the world, who accompanied the Argonauts in search of the elusive Golden Fleece.

PRIVATE TOUR FROM SOFIA THRACAIN VALLEY

If You Go:

Bulgaria National History Museum, Sofia
Visit Bulgaria website
Bulgaria Wikitravel
History of Bulgaria

About the author:
Enzo Sardellaro is a High School teacher specializing in Italian literature and history. He writes articles about several topics such as politics, society, science, travel and culture (literature, fine arts and history). worldliterature.altervista.org

Photo credits:
Tsarevets fortress in northern Bulgaria by Dennis Jarvis
The ancient Serdika fortress, Sofia by Apostoloff / CC BY-SA

Arras, France

If You Go:

Paris, France

If You Go: Historic Paris Site

Leifur Eiríksson Statue

Hallgrímskirkja

The Alþingi (Parliament House)

Höfði House

National Museum of Iceland

Sólfar (The Sun Voyager)

Hólavallagarður Cemetery

The Reykjavík Cathedral (Dómkirkjan)

Dyrhólaey

The Great Geyser

If You Go:

If You Go:

Bulgaria

If You Go:

If You Go:
Historic Paris Site