by Rashmi Rao
Chikmagalur or Chikkamagalur a town nestled in the beautiful Malnad region is a little short of 300 km from Bangalore. Tranquil environs, lush green surroundings and tall mountains are a slice of what you can expect in this wonderful town. Easily accessible by road this place is a great weekend getaway from the capital city of Bangalore. Given its proximity to a number of sightseeing attractions, it is an extremely popular tourist destination.
While closer to Chikmagalur, we decided to take a quick detour to visit the renowned temples of Halebid and Belur, both located about 30 km (though in different directions) from Chikmagalur. Both these temples are characterized by ornate pillars, detailed panels, intricate carvings, beautiful sculptures and are the finest examples of the Hoysala school of architecture. The Hoysaleswara temple in Halebid, dating back to the 12th century has it walls covered with myriad sculptures which depict a wide variety of Hindu Gods, mythological birds and animals. It is indeed a marvel that no two sculptures here are the same.
The main attraction in Belur is the Cheenakesava temple. Equally splendid, with its share of ornate pillars and sculptures this temple was built by king Vishnuvardhana in the early 12th century. Legend has it that it took 103 years to complete the building of this temple, with the Darpana Sundari (Lady with the mirror) carved on the walls being one of the highlights of this place.
Both these proposed UNESCO World Heritage sites are a must visit for a first timer.
As the hues of the trees turned deeper and the surroundings cooler, we knew that we had arrived in the “younger daughter’s town”, which is the literal translation of “Chikmagalur” in Kannada. The serene surroundings with the Western Ghats as the background makes you feel instantly rejuvenated. At a height of 1090 meters above sea level, this town is one of the largest coffee producers in India.
One of the most popular attractions in Chikmagalur is the peak of Mullayyanagiri. This is the highest peak in Karnataka and at a little less than 2000 meters, it is one of the most loved trekking destinations. However, the road to Mullayyanagiri is very narrow with steep curves. Unless traveling on a clear sunny day, there is every chance that the road ahead would be very foggy with very low visibility. The road ends a little below the peak beyond which a small trek takes you to the peak which houses a temple. The views are picturesque and breathtaking and provide a great spectacle of the Arabian Sea on clear days.
On the way back, we stopped at Sitalayanagiri where there is a Shiva temple. Our next destination was Baba Budangiri, known for its shrine dedicated to the Sufi saint Baba Budan. It is a pilgrimage site for both Hindus and Muslims and the place is also known as Dattatreya Peeta. The shrine is housed in a cave-like structure and attracts crowds throughout the year. Legend has it that Baba Budan had immense healing powers and hence people come here to pray for good health. Devotees are also seen picking up handfuls of earth from the region that is kept at home and worshipped.
Close to Bababudan giri are the Manikyadhara Falls which again is a much visited destination. Though small, the waterfalls are frequented throughout the year as it is considered a holy site. Tourists as well as locals bathe in the water as it is believed to have divine therapeutic powers. We too had a quick dip in the waters before proceeding back.
In the city, the coffee museum is yet another ‘must visit’. Nestled in the greenery of the ‘coffee land’, this place is a store house of information on the history of coffee, its cultivation, varieties, grading and basically everything you ever wanted to know about coffee. An initiative by the Coffee Board of India, the museum also houses the coffee quality evaluation and training center. Attractive visuals and maps display interesting trivia and the place gives you a complete picture of the “bean to brew” journey. With a modest entry fee, this place can really boost your knowledge on coffee and it is recommended for adults and children alike.
M G road in the city centre is the prime shopping area, where you can shop for various kinds of coffee powder and spices like pepper, cardamom and cloves. A sumptuous snack of masala dosa, filter coffee and gulab jamoon at Town Canteen is something not to be missed while in the town. Located on R.G. road, this small eatery has been serving absolutely delicious dosas and gulab jamoon since 1960!
Chikmagalur is also located at a convenient distance to the much visited holy towns of Sringeri, Horanadu and Kalasa all of which can be covered in a day trip. Bhadra Wildlife sanctuary and Kemmanagundi are other places worth a visit.
Apart from regular hotels and resorts, Chikmagalur has a large concentration of home stays which serve as convenient accommodation options for tourists.
If You Go:
♦ By air: The nearest airport is at Mangalore, about 160 km from Chikmagalur. The airport is well connected to major Indian cities like Chennai, Mumbai and Kolkata. Bangalore airport is about 270 km away which well connected to major Indian and international cities.
♦ By train: Kadur railway station, about 40 km from Chikmagalur is the nearest railway station. Hassan railway station is 60 km away.
♦ By road: Chikmagalur is well connected to other major cities of Karnataka like Bengaluru, Mangalore, Hubli and Hassan by a number of state run or private buses.
Rashmi Gopal Rao is a freelance writer and blogger. She is from Bengaluru, India and writes for a few travel websites. Her hobbies include travelling, reading, writing and photography. She is also passionate about home decor and gardening. You can follow her on her blog rashminotes.wordpress.com and on Pinterest (www.pinterest.com/rashmigopalrao).
All photos are by Rashmi Rao Gopal:
Chennakesava Temple, Belur carvings
Sculptures at Hoysaleswara Temple, Halebid
Chikmagalur
Mist-clad Mullayanagiri
Coffee bean display at the coffee museum
For 20 RMB the grounds hold an opportunity to walk in, and with three incense given once a ticket is purchased to light-up and bow towards all four corners of the Temple several times. After, there’s a place to put the incense upright upon the blessings. There’re other forms of blessings, like buying a red-ribbon and tying it to the veranda or tree.
How one enters the temple and how to conduct oneself? It’s as simple as stepping over, with feet not touching the small barrier through its doors and walking over a small bridge always on the right or left, but never through the center. A person can take photos outside; however, one never takes photographs of the Buddha inside the respective buildings.
By the way, through the contemplative walk, there is a beautiful white Guanyin Buddha measuring nearly three stories high in the center of the gardens.
About the author:
One of the most popular attractions of Kochi is a cruise along the backwaters of one of India’s largest lakes, the Vembanad lake. A boat ride along the placid backwaters gives you an excellent opportunity to witness the varied sights of this wonderful port city. You can opt for a short cruise cruise that will literally give you a bird’s eye view of the city’s skyline including the islands of Willingdon and Vypeen. Some cruises even take you upto the estuary point, the point where you can witness the mouth of the massive Arabian sea.
Arguably, one of the most engrossing sights of Kochi is the area of Fort Kochi which is the historical part of the town which has distinct European influences. Best explored on foot, this is the first European township in India and characterized by heritage bungalows, churches and of course the famous Chinese fishing nets. Definitely Kochi’s most recognizable sight, the fishing nets are a truly a mechanical wonder in that they have been around since the 14th century and are effectively used even today! It is worth watching a live demo of how these wonderful structures that are fixed installations work. About 10 meters in height, these nets are held by bamboo and teak poles and are operated in an unusual manner from the shore. The nets spread as much as 20 meters into the water and are laid for a short duration of about five minutes. It is indeed a unique experience and eager fishermen can give you a detailed account of these nets for a small fee; it is something not be missed while in the city!
St. Francis church is an important landmark in Fort Kochi and is believed to be the oldest European-built church in India. The church once had the mortal remains of the great explorer Vasco de Gama, who died here in 1524. The remains were later transported back to Portugal. The Dutch cemetery is yet another important site which houses the tomb stones of several Europeans who had left their homes and settled in the trading centre of Kochi. The place is currently managed by the Church of South India. Fort Kochi is an extremely vibrant locality with scores of little shops selling a wide variety of magnets, souvenirs, beaded jewellery and other knick knacks. Do have your bargaining skills handy while shopping here. A stroll along the charming Princess Street, one of the oldest streets in the area is a great idea. Lined on both sides with a number of European style restaurants, you can sample some great local food here.
A truly captivating area, the ancient and historical township of Jew Town is the centre of spices and antiques. Again teeming with little outlets, you can pick up anything from nutmeg, mace, cloves and cinnamon that are stored in sacks outside the store. The plethora of antiques available in the Jew town is truly mind boggling. From a wide variety of copper and brass artifacts, you can shop for items like antique bells, lamps and even stone sculptures.
Yet another historical part of the city, Mattancherry is synonomous with the Dutch palace or the Mattancherry palace. Originally built by the Protuguese in 1555 as a gift for the Raja of Cochin, it was later renovated by the Dutch. A treasure house of information on the history of the city of Cochin and its rulers, this place has a remarkable collection of beautiful murals. Articles of use by the royals and portraits of the Rajas of Cochin right from 1864 are on display.
While in the mainland city of Ernakulam, the Basilica of Our Lady of Ransom is a renowned centre of pilgrimage. This famous ancient Christian Church built in 1524 is visited by scores of people from not only Kerala but all over the world. Irrespective of caste, creed or religion, people throng here in great numbers to seek the blessings of Mary, the mother of Jesus, popularly known as “Vallarpadathamma” here. The annual festival of the church held each year in September is also very famous.
The mausoleum appears to be so far away, almost completely at the opposite end from where we stand admiring it from the southern gate. The complex on this side of the river occupies 42 acres. Regardless, the walk will be worth it.
Arriving on the plinth, we can see that the mausoleum is 8-sided, but not a true octagon. Instead, the corners are chamfered to give four wide faces and four narrower corners of the building. All sides, though, incorporate vaulted archways. From here, we also have a much better view of the onion dome. Four more onion domes grace the chamfered corners. The ivory marble mausoleum sits on yet another raised platform. At the corners of this platform are 130 foot tall minarets. Our guide explains how these minarets are not quite straight. Instead, they are tilted slightly outward so they will fall away from the mausoleum if they collapse. This is a brilliant example of the detailed planning and engineering involved in constructing the Taj Mahal.
Finally standing on the raised platform, we can see the exquisite inlay of semi-precious stones in a twining vine and flower pattern above the immense archway of the entrance. Calligraphy of black marble inlay into white marble panels frames the archway as well. Our guide tells us how the calligraphy at the higher levels has been created in slightly larger script so that it appears to be the same height when viewing it from below. Again, the architects and artisans really show their skill in planning and executing this. About 20,000 artisans labored to create the mausoleum and plinth from 1632 to 1643. The rest of the complex took another decade to complete.
Looking beyond this screen, it’s startling to see the positioning of the sarcophagi. Everything else in this complex has been so painstakingly symmetrical, that it’s jarring to see the symmetry interrupted here. The tomb of Mumtaz Mahal had been placed in the center. Shortly after the completion of the Taj Mahal, one of Shah Jahan’s sons deposed and imprisoned him for the rest of his life. Surprisingly, this same son decreed Shah Jahan’s tomb to be added to the side without disturbing the original tomb. We discover later, however, that these are not the real sarcophagi. As per custom, the real ones are located in the same positions in the less elaborate lower level of the mausoleum and are inaccessible to visitors.
We also venture to the back and finally discover the river that had been hidden from all the other vantage points. We find out later that another garden had been created on the opposite bank of the river in order to best view the mausoleum in the moonlight. Unfortunately, this garden on the other bank has fallen into disrepair.
All photos by Marilyn Escue:
As it is a beach city, the Promenade is a hot spot for locals and tourists alike. About 1.5 km long this runs along Goubert Avenue (Beach road) and overlooks the Bay of Bengal. There are huge rocky boulders that prevent one from getting into the water but there are benches to sit and a fairly broad pavement where you can enjoy your morning and evening walks. Walking along the promenade you can see the statues of Mahatma Gandhi and Jawaharlal Nehru. About four meters tall and surrounded by 8 granite pillars, the Gandhi statue is a prominent figure on the beach front and is of special significance on National days. The French War memorial which is dedicated to the martyrs who laid down their lives during World War I is also along the Promenade. The old lighthouse that is one of the famous landmarks of Pondicherry can also be viewed from here. The place is full of life during the evenings especially on holidays and weekends with scores of hawkers selling street food, souvenirs, trinkets, junk jewellery and the like. The cafes and restaurants along the promenade are also great places to sit back, relax and watch the beautiful sunset.
One of the key points of interest in Pondicherry is the Aurobindo Ashram which houses the tomb of Sri Aurobindo. He was a famous Indian nationalist, poet and yogi who joined the Indian movement for independence against the British rule. During his stay in Pondicherry he discovered a technique of spiritual practice called Integral Yoga and with the help of his spiritual collaborator, Mirra Alfassa (“The Mother”), he founded the Sri Aurobindo Ashram. The Ashram and its surroundings are serene and peaceful with a detail for cleanliness. The stone ‘sammadhi’ of Sri Aurobindo and The Mother are located in the central courtyard of the building which itself is set in a beautifully maintained colorful garden. There are several shops, guesthouses around the city that are run by the Ashram. You need to leave your footwear outside and children under the age of 3 are not allowed inside the premises.
Located in the vicinity of the Ashram is the popular “Manakula Vinayagar Temple” which is a temple dedicated to the elephant God; Lord Ganesha. With beautiful carvings and an elaborate “gopuram” which is the exterior tower of a temple, this place also houses an elephant that is stationed outside the temple. Right in the middle of the old French town, this temple attracts scores of tourists and locals as the deity is considered very powerful. The market outside the temple is equally colorful with flowers, idols and articles of worship on display.
The Pondicherry museum and the botanical gardens are worth a visit if you are a first time visitor. The museum has a wide collection of a number of sculptures belonging to the Pallava and Chola dynasties and also archaeological findings from Arikamedu, an erstwhile Roman settlement located about 7 km from Pondicherry. The botanical garden boasts of a large variety of plants and includes the Japanese garden and a “toy train” as its main attractions.
A little away from the city at about 7 km, Chunnambar or Paradise beach is yet another haven for tourists. Accessible by ferry, this is located at point where the Chunnambar River backwaters meet the Bay of Bengal. The view of the pristine waters, sand and sun make this a great addition to the itinerary.
Auroville or the “city of dawn” is located about 8 km north west of Pondicherry and was founded by the Mother. Conceived as a universal town where men and women of various countries can live together in peace and harmony, this place has over 2000 people living and are involved in activities like agriculture, handicrafts, healthcare, administration etc. The central Matrimandir, which is not a temple but a place for individual silent meditation is stunning and set in an area of 62 acres in the centre of the township. The Auroville visitor center is a unique place to visit and one can spend at least half a day at the boutique stores and cafeteria within.
