Hiking the Ancient Makawehi Lithified Cliffs
by Noreen Kompanik
Known for its unique geography and unparalleled natural beauty, Kauai is one of the most breathtaking islands in the world. A hiker’s dream. Truth be told even if one is not an avid hiker, the abundance of natural wonders waiting to be explored is endless.
Our hearts were set on introducing our fellow travelers to the spectacular Na Pali Coast, globally renowned for its rugged, breathtaking grandeur, secluded beaches, rainbow waterfalls and, yes, challenging, daunting hikes. Three days of heavy rains and flooding foiled our plans. Steep treacherous cliffs and slick trails make for heart failing excitement, but, not the kind of excitement we were looking for. Even under the best conditions the Na Pali Coast can be dangerous with its washed out trails and narrow, stony paths clinging precariously to the edge of cliffs. With more rain expected in the forecast, we reluctantly took the locals advice and headed south to the sunny shores of Poipu. It is here on the south side of Kauai that we found unexpected treasure.
Kauai’s southern coastline features a fascinating path along the ancient, fragile ecosystem of the Maha’ulepu Heritage Trail. The trail begins on crescent-shaped Shipwrecks Beach near the Grand Hyatt in Keoneloa Bay. A fishing vessel was said to have run aground on the bay’s sandbar. Though remains of the vessel are now “lost at sea”, the beach retains its famous name. Leaving the tropical white sandy beach, we were surprised to find ourselves in groves of fresh, fragrant pine trees. Our path covered with thousands of soft green needles. Colorful flora and fauna of the forest surrounded us. With very few hikers to be seen, we felt as if the trail was ours alone.
After climbing a gentle upgrade, we emerged into a completely different world. Greeted by azure skies and miles of crystal deep blue sea, the stunningly rugged coastline stood before us. Commanding views of the churning Pacific waters were visible from vantage points overlooking the edge of sun bleached cliffs. Magnificent coves in the distance appeared like a perfect painting. Blowholes shooting occasional sprays of salty ocean water along the path demonstrated the immense power of the ocean at high tide. Binoculars in hand, we ventured closer to the water, our excitement piquing with the unexpected sight of massive humpback whales breaching in the distance.
Each bend in the path yielded more surprise- the element of any good journey. Crystal clear tide pools teemed with tiny fish and miniature crabs all scurrying to find safety as each wave brought more water surging into the pool. Treasure troves of fossils and petroglyphs carved into the rocks line the coastal pathways. Skeletal remains of extinct birds that once lived on Kauai before Polynesian voyagers first arrived over 1500 years ago have been discovered by paleontologists.
Each outcropping of rock, each sheltered bay and inlet, each changing vista yielded more awe inspiring views and geological wonderments. Cool, moist caves lured us to their entrances begging to be explored. Whooshing sounds of waves roaring through the wind tunnels cautioned us to beware the mighty power of the Pacific surf.
On our return trip, we followed the inside trail away from of the direct sun and into the welcoming shade of the palm and coconut forest. Since the paths split and merged repeatedly, we were able to easily navigate a completely different route back. Much to our surprise, we unexpectedly stumbled across a sacred ancient Hawaiian burial site. The stillness was interrupted by a gentle breeze stirring through the treetops, reminding us that for the ancient gods, their mana still lives here. Eyes closed, we sensed the spirit of the ancient Hawaiians and heard their whispers urging us to respect this sacred ground.
Arriving back to Shipwrecks Beach at the end of our trek, we were certain we could undertake this adventure multiple times and it would never be the same. Though not an exceptionally challenging hike, we instead experienced a relaxing trek with breathtaking views and fascinating discoveries perfect for a casual or family hike. Oh, and about that initial disappointment in forgoing the Na Pali trail, nature’s artistry took care of that.
Louis L’Amour once said “The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel too fast and you miss all you are traveling for.” We are thankful to have not missed this unexpected treasure.
If You Go:
Take Highway 50 east from Hanapepe. Turn right on Highway 520 toward Po’ipu. At the end of 520, turn right on Koloa Road and then left on Poipu Road. Park in the lot near the Hyatt Hotel and take the trail between this hotel and the Poipu Bay Resort golf course. OR, go to the east end of Shipwreck Beach to access the cliff trails. The hike is a round trip of approximately 3½ miles. Plan on at least two hours (or more if you love to explore).
Kauai: Waimea Canyon and Fern Grotto Kauai
About the author:
Noreen Kompanik is a published freelance travel writer and photographer based in San Diego, California. She is a member of the International Travel Writers and Photographer’s Alliance and shares many of her adventures, stories and photos on whatsinyoursuitcase.net and the What’s In Your Suitcase? Facebook site at www.facebook.com/Whats-In-Your-Suitcase-322531634589666.
1. Beginning the Hike
2. Rocky Kauai Coast
3. High tide on the Cliffs
4. Alien looking Landscape
5. Makawehi Bay & Inlets
6. Sacred Burial Ground
Fort Shafter is the oldest U.S. military installation on the island. Visit Quarters 5 residence of General Walter C. Short who was head of security on Oahu in 1941. Palm Circle which was strafed on December 7, 1941 houses the Pineapple Pentagon, Headquarters of the U.S. Army Pacific Command.
Haleiwa Field on December 7, Lt. George S. Welch and 2nd Lt. Kenneth M. Taylor were at Wheeler field when the attack started and not waiting for instructions called Haleiwa field to have their fighters fueled, armed and warmed up. They raced to Haleiwa field by car and jumped into their cockpits and took off. They shot down 6 Japanese airplanes and were both awarded the Distinguished Service Cross for their bravery and valor during the attack.
Pearl Harbor Visitor Center/ Museum/ Battleship Row, the Arizona Memorial is probably the most visited site on Honolulu and begins at the visitor’s center with an outstanding film documenting the attack on Pearl Harbor, with actual footage of that day. There are informative displays to learn more about the events that took place that changed the course of American History. There are snack areas and food vendors where you can relax and grab a bite to eat. We met some of the survivors and were able to thank them for their service.
The Punchbowl National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific is known to the Hawaiians as Puowaina or “Hill of Sacrifice.” This is the final resting place of over 35,000 Americans who proudly served their country. Experience the serenity of the Cemetery and discover the cemetery’s meticulously landscaped acres. There are also the Courts of the Missing, the chapel and the finely detailed mosaic maps of the Pacific theaters of action in World War II.
Waikiki Beach meaning (pouting fresh water) in Hawaiian in Downtown Honolulu is probably one of the most famous beaches in the world with it’s the white sand beach. The area of Waikiki is home to public places including Kapiolani Park, Fort De Russy Military Reservation, Kahanamoku Lagoon, Kuhio Beach Park, and Ala Wai Harbor.
Between the months of November and February are the best times to watch the more experienced surfer’s battle the big waves that can reach up to thirty feet. However from May to September the waves are smaller and more tranquil for beginning surfers and excellent for swimming and sunbathing. There are fifty one beaches on the North Shore some of the more famous include Waimea Bay, Sunset, and Ehukai (home of the Banzai Pipeline) and have thick white sands that stretch for more than eleven miles.
“This place has the feeling of power,” says archaeologist Mark Eddowes at a rectangular terrace enclosed by stone walls. We are on a wooded hillside overlooking the bay where Captain James Cook arrived at the island of Moorea in 1774. Eddowes has been excavating and restoring ancient sites like these, called marae, for many years. They were open-air temples that honoured gods and ancestors, where chiefs and priests once presided over rites to ensure a good harvest or a successful military campaign. These involved the sacrifice of valued animals and often humans as well.
At Huahine, the tides surge through a narrow channel. Ancient islanders built stone walls in the shallows. These funnelled the lagoon fishes into small enclosures, where they were easily netted. The fish traps were restored in the 1970s. We watch local men reap a bountiful harvest. Our guide recognizes one man who recently lost his job. He may be catching fish to sell, but more likely it is for his family.
A week in the South Pacific is too short, so we follow the cruise with visits to two more islands. At Raiatea, we stay at the beautifully landscaped Raiatea Lodge. Our bed is sprinkled with hibiscus blossoms. The balcony looks out to sea. Renting a car gives us a closer look at island life than short outings from the cruise ship. The town of Uturoa bustles with shops, restaurants and traffic. Elsewhere, the pace is laid back, in tune with island time.
The warrior’s marae has a tall central stone. Only men who measured up were deemed suitable for combat. The larger main marae features a long wall of flat stones and carved totem-like wooden planks representing animal or human figures. Archaeologists have found human bones, likely from sacrifices to that fierce god. The story goes that Oro was frequently copulating with the goddess of the land and was weakened thereby, so he needed to be fed with male vibrancy. Warriors were sent out each year to snatch a number of unlucky young men. With the arrival of Christianity, the marae were abandoned.
Hunched over a chopping block, a woman uses a machete to remove the green husks from chestnuts, while her son prepares to boil them. Smoke from an open fire, where breadfruits are roasting, fills the air. On a forested slope, huge pigs root around. Beyond a tin-roofed house sprawls an irrigated patch of taro. Coconuts, bananas and citrus fruits grow everywhere. After our stroll through several backyards, a man catches up to offer a plate of roasted breadfruit. Its smoky taste is delicious.
Island life centres on the seaside road. Bicycles are most of the traffic. For children, it’s their playground. Several cars or trucks come by every hour. It may be the baker, delivering the baguettes. Or Laboudet Edmond, a retired French officer and market gardener, who sells cabbages from a trailer behind his motor scooter. And then the dogs go back to sleep in the road. Nobody passes without a cheerful greeting.
Samoa’s capital, Apia, on the island of Upolu, retains a pleasant, rather tired atmosphere that has been lost in the more popular Pacific tourist destinations of Hawaii and Tahiti. Life goes on at a leisurely pace and there are no crowds to negotiate or much traffic on the roads. Apia is small but charming and you can fill in a couple of hours meandering around.
The fruit and vegetable market is in a low slung building in the centre of Apia. The pace on Samoa is slow and languid and neither buyers nor sellers are in a hurry. The efficient Germans brought in Chinese workers rather than rely on Samoans to work in the coconut, cacao and rubber plantations they established.
Vailima was the grandest house on the island with a magnificent staircase and a large room for entertaining which included a fireplace, the only one of its kind in Samoa. Stevenson’s mother, who lived with Stevenson, his wife and step-children in Samoa, brought all her furniture from Scotland, and all other furnishings were imported.
The wide and starry sky Stevenson lies under is far from the gaslights of Edinburgh’s New Town where he was born. You can walk up the Road of Loving Hearts to his grave and gaze out, as he does, across the green of his adopted home to the sparkling blue of the Pacific.
The island of Savai’i, the biggest island in the group and an hour and a half hour ferry ride from Upolu is well worth a visit. At Sapapali’i on Savai’i is a large monument to mark the spot where John Williams of the London Missionary Society landed in 1830 to spread God’s word among the Samoan people. He was obviously successful as religion plays an important part in Samoan life today. There are churches all over the islands and observation of the Sabbath is strict. On Sunday morning whole families go to church dressed in white; the men in lava lavas and the women in dresses and often hats. Apart from hotels there are no restaurants or shops open on Sundays.
Between 1905 and 1911 the volcano of Mt Matavanu on Savai’i erupted and lava poured out destroying five villages. Today the lava fields of Saleaula are an eerie reminder of this disaster. The expanse of black hard molten lava with the odd plant growing has an unreal quality. Driving further on we were shown the ruins of a church buried in the lava by Lily, who lived nearby. Lily showed us the ‘virgin’s grave’ – the grave of a nun untouched by the flowing lava and where flowers have now been planted in the only soil at the site.
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